第7章

IdoubtnotbutwhentherewasacollegeatInchKenneth，therewasahermitageuponSandiland。 Havingwanderedoverthoseextensiveplains，wecommittedourselvesagaintothewindsandwaters；andafteravoyageofabouttenminutes，inwhichwemetwithnothingveryobservable，wereagainsafeupondryground。 WetoldSirAllanourdesireofvisitingIcolmkill，andentreatedhimtogiveushisprotection，andhiscompany。Hethoughtpropertohesitatealittle，buttheLadieshinted，thatastheyknewhewouldnotfinallyrefuse，hewoulddobetterifhepreservedthegraceofreadycompliance。Hetooktheiradvice，andpromisedtocarryusonthemorrowinhisboat。 Wepassedtheremainingpartofthedayinsuchamusementsaswereinourpower。SirAllanrelatedtheAmericancampaign，andateveningoneoftheLadiesplayedonherharpsichord，whileColandMr。BoswelldancedaScottishreelwiththeother。 WecouldhavebeeneasilypersuadedtoalongerstayuponInchKenneth，butlifewillnotbeallpassedindelight。ThesessionatEdinburghwasapproaching，fromwhichMr。Boswellcouldnotbeabsent。 Inthemorningourboatwasready:itwashighandstrong。SirAllanvictualleditfortheday，andprovidedablerowers。WenowpartedfromtheyoungLairdofCol，whohadtreateduswithsomuchkindness，andconcludedhisfavoursbyconsigningustoSirAllan。 Herewehadthelastembraceofthisamiableman，who，whilethesepageswerepreparingtoattesthisvirtues，perishedinthepassagebetweenUlvaandInchKenneth。 SirAllan，towhomthewholeregionwaswellknown，toldusofaveryremarkablecave，towhichhewouldshowustheway。Wehadbeendisappointedalreadybyonecave，andwerenotmuchelevatedbytheexpectationofanother。 Itwasyetbettertoseeit，andwestoppedatsomerocksonthecoastofMull。Themouthisfortifiedbyvastfragmentsofstone，overwhichwemadeourway，neitherverynimbly，norverysecurely。 Theplace，however，wellrepaidourtrouble。Thebottom，asfarasthefloodrushesin，wasencumberedwithlargepebbles，butasweadvancedwasspreadoverwithsmoothsand。Thebreadthisaboutforty-fivefeet:theroofrisesinanarch，almostregular，toaheightwhichwecouldnotmeasure；butIthinkitaboutthirtyfeet。 Thispartofourcuriositywasnearlyfrustrated；forthoughwewenttoseeacave，andknewthatcavesaredark，weforgottocarrytapers，anddidnotdiscoverouromissiontillwewerewakenedbyourwants。SirAllanthensentoneoftheboatmenintothecountry，whosoonreturnedwithonelittlecandle。Wewerethusenabledtogoforward，butcouldnotventurefar。Havingpassedinwardfromtheseatoagreatdepth，wefoundontherighthandanarrowpassage，perhapsnotmorethansixfeetwide，obstructedbygreatstones，overwhichweclimbedandcameintoasecondcave，inbreadthtwenty-fivefeet。Theairinthisapartmentwasverywarm，butnotoppressive，norloadedwithvapours。Ourlightshowednotokensofafeculentorcorruptedatmosphere。Herewasasquarestone，called，aswearetold，Fingal\'sTable。 Ifwehadbeenprovidedwithtorches，weshouldhaveproceededinoursearch，thoughwehadalreadygoneasfarasanyformeradventurer，exceptsomewhoarereportednevertohavereturned； and，measuringourwayback，wefounditmorethanahundredandsixtyyards，theeleventhpartofamile。 Ourmeasureswerenotcriticallyexact，havingbeenmadewithawalkingpole，suchasitisconvenienttocarryintheserockycountries，ofwhichIguessedthelengthbystandingagainstit。 Inthistherecouldbenogreaterrour，nordoImuchdoubtbuttheHighlander，whomweemployed，reportedthenumberright。Morenicetyhoweverisbetter，andnomanshouldtravelunprovidedwithinstrumentsfortakingheightsanddistances。 Thereisyetanothercauseoferrournotalwayseasilysurmounted，thoughmoredangeroustotheveracityofitinerarynarratives，thanimperfectmensuration。Anobserverdeeplyimpressedbyanyremarkablespectacle，doesnotsuppose，thatthetraceswillsoonvanishfromhismind，andhavingcommonlynogreatconvenienceforwriting，defersthedescriptiontoatimeofmoreleisure，andbetteraccommodation。 Hewhohasnotmadetheexperiment，orwhoisnotaccustomedtorequirerigorousaccuracyfromhimself，willscarcelybelievehowmuchafewhourstakefromcertaintyofknowledge，anddistinctnessofimagery；howthesuccessionofobjectswillbebroken，howseparatepartswillbeconfused，andhowmanyparticularfeaturesanddiscriminationswillbecompressedandconglobatedintoonegrossandgeneralidea。 Tothisdilatorynotationmustbeimputedthefalserelationsoftravellers，wherethereisnoimaginablemotivetodeceive。Theytrustedtomemory，whatcannotbetrustedsafelybuttotheeye，andtoldbyguesswhatafewhoursbeforetheyhadknownwithcertainty。ThusitwasthatWheelerandSpondescribedwithirreconcilablecontrarietythingswhichtheysurveyedtogether，andwhichbothundoubtedlydesignedtoshowastheysawthem。 Whenwehadsatisfiedourcuriosityinthecave，sofarasourpenuryoflightpermittedus，weclamberedagaintoourboat，andproceededalongthecoastofMulltoaheadland，calledAtun，remarkableforthecolumnarformoftherocks，whichriseinaseriesofpilasters，withadegreeofregularity，whichSirAllanthinksnotlessworthyofcuriositythantheshoreofStaffa。 Notlongafterwecametoanotherrangeofblackrocks，whichhadtheappearanceofbrokenpilasters，setonebehindanothertoagreatdepth。ThisplacewaschosenbySirAllanforourdinner。 Wewereeasilyaccommodatedwithseats，forthestoneswereofallheights，andrefreshedourselvesandourboatmen，whocouldhavenootherresttillwewereatIcolmkill。 Theeveningwasnowapproaching，andwewereyetataconsiderabledistancefromtheendofourexpedition。Wecouldthereforestopnomoretomakeremarksintheway，butsetforwardwithsomedegreeofeagerness。Thedaysoonfailedus，andthemoonpresentedaverysolemnandpleasingscene。Theskywasclear，sothattheeyecommandedawidecircle:theseawasneitherstillnorturbulent:thewindneithersilentnorloud。Wewereneverfarfromonecoastoranother，onwhich，iftheweatherhadbecomeviolent，wecouldhavefoundshelter，andthereforecontemplatedateasetheregionthroughwhichweglidedinthetranquillityofthenight，andsawnowarockandnowanislandgrowgraduallyconspicuousandgraduallyobscure。IcommittedthefaultwhichI havejustbeencensuring，inneglecting，aswepassed，tonotetheseriesofthisplacidnavigation。 WewereverynearanIsland，calledNun\'sIsland，perhapsfromanancientconvent。HereissaidtohavebeendugthestonethatwasusedinthebuildingsofIcolmkill。Whetheritisnowinhabitedwecouldnotstaytoinquire。 AtlastwecametoIcolmkill，butfoundnoconvenienceforlanding。 Ourboatcouldnotbeforcedverynearthedryground，andourHighlanderscarriedusoverthewater。 WewerenowtreadingthatillustriousIsland，whichwasoncetheluminaryoftheCaledonianregions，whencesavageclansandrovingbarbariansderivedthebenefitsofknowledge，andtheblessingsofreligion。Toabstractthemindfromalllocalemotionwouldbeimpossible，ifitwereendeavoured，andwouldbefoolish，ifitwerepossible。Whateverwithdrawsusfromthepowerofoursenses； whatevermakesthepast，thedistant，orthefuturepredominateoverthepresent，advancesusinthedignityofthinkingbeings。 Farfrommeandfrommyfriends，besuchfrigidphilosophyasmayconductusindifferentandunmovedoveranygroundwhichhasbeendignifiedbywisdom，bravery，orvirtue。Thatmanislittletobeenvied，whosepatriotismwouldnotgainforceupontheplainofMarathon，orwhosepietywouldnotgrowwarmeramongtheruinsofIona! Wecametoolatetovisitmonuments:somecarewasnecessaryforourselves。WhateverwasintheIsland，SirAllancouldcommand，fortheinhabitantswereMacleans；buthavinglittletheycouldnotgiveusmuch。HewenttotheheadmanoftheIsland，whomFame，butFamedelightsinamplifying，representsasworthnolessthanfiftypounds。Hewasperhapsproudenoughofhisguests，butillpreparedforourentertainment；however，hesoonproducedmoreprovisionthanmennotluxuriousrequire。Ourlodgingwasnexttobeprovided。Wefoundabarnwellstockedwithhay，andmadeourbedsassoftaswecould。 Inthemorningweroseandsurveyedtheplace。Thechurchesofthetwoconventsarebothstanding，thoughunroofed。Theywerebuiltofunhewnstone，butsolid，andnotinelegant。Ibroughtawayrudemeasuresofthebuildings，suchasIcannotmuchtrustmyself，inaccuratelytaken，andobscurelynoted。Mr。Pennant\'sdelineations，whicharedoubtlessexact，havemademyunskilfuldescriptionlessnecessary。 Theepiscopalchurchconsistsoftwoparts，separatedbythebelfry，andbuiltatdifferenttimes。Theoriginalchurchhad，likeothers，thealtaratoneend，andtowerattheother:butasitgrewtoosmall，anotherbuildingofequaldimensionwasadded，andthetowerthenwasnecessarilyinthemiddle。 Thattheseedificesareofdifferentagesseemsevident。ThearchofthefirstchurchisRoman，beingpartofacircle；thatoftheadditionalbuildingispointed，andthereforeGothick，orSaracenical；thetowerisfirm，andwantsonlytobeflooredandcovered。 Ofthechambersorcellsbelongingtothemonks，therearesomewallsremaining，butnothingapproachingtoacompleteapartment。 Thebottomofthechurchissoincumberedwithmudandrubbish，thatwecouldmakenodiscoveriesofcuriousinscriptions，andwhattherearehavebeenalreadypublished。Theplaceissaidtobeknownwheretheblackstoneslieconcealed，onwhichtheoldHighlandChiefs，whentheymadecontractsandalliances，usedtotaketheoath，whichwasconsideredasmoresacredthananyotherobligation，andwhichcouldnotbeviolatedwithouttheblackestinfamy。Inthosedaysofviolenceandrapine，itwasofgreatimportancetoimpressuponsavagemindsthesanctityofanoath，bysomeparticularandextraordinarycircumstances。Theywouldnothaverecoursetotheblackstones，uponsmallorcommonoccasions，andwhentheyhadestablishedtheirfaithbythistremendoussanction，inconstancyandtreacherywerenolongerfeared。 Thechapelofthenunneryisnowusedbytheinhabitantsasakindofgeneralcow-house，andthebottomisconsequentlytoomiryforexamination。Someofthestoneswhichcoveredthelaterabbesseshaveinscriptions，whichmightyetberead，ifthechapelwerecleansed。Theroofofthis，asofalltheotherbuildings，istotallydestroyed，notonlybecausetimberquicklydecayswhenitisneglected，butbecauseinanislandutterlydestituteofwood，itwaswantedforuse，andwasconsequentlythefirstplunderofneedyrapacity。 Thechancelofthenuns\'chapeliscoveredwithanarchofstone，towhichtimehasdonenoinjury；andasmallapartmentcommunicatingwiththechoir，onthenorthside，likethechapter- houseincathedrals，roofedwithstoneinthesamemanner，islikewiseentire。 Inoneofthechurcheswasamarblealtar，whichthesuperstitionoftheinhabitantshasdestroyed。Theiropinionwas，thatafragmentofthisstonewasadefenceagainstshipwrecks，fire，andmiscarriages。Inonecornerofthechurchthebasonforholywaterisyetunbroken。 Thecemeteryofthenunnerywas，tillverylately，regardedwithsuchreverence，thatonlywomenwereburiedinit。Thesereliquesofvenerationalwaysproducesomemournfulpleasure。Icouldhaveforgivenagreatinjurymoreeasilythantheviolationofthisimaginarysanctity。 Southofthechapelstandthewallsofalargeroom，whichwasprobablythehall，orrefectoryofthenunnery。Thisapartmentiscapableofrepair。Oftherestoftheconventthereareonlyfragments。 Besidesthetwoprincipalchurches，thereare，Ithink，fivechapelsyetstanding，andthreemoreremembered。Therearealsocrosses，ofwhichtwobearthenamesofSt。JohnandSt。Matthew。 Alargespaceofgroundabouttheseconsecratededificesiscoveredwithgravestones，fewofwhichhaveanyinscription。Hethatsurveysit，attendedbyaninsularantiquary，maybetoldwheretheKingsofmanynationsareburied，andifhelovestosoothhisimaginationwiththethoughtsthatnaturallyriseinplaceswherethegreatandthepowerfulliemingledwiththedust，lethimlisteninsubmissivesilence；forifheasksanyquestions，hisdelightisatanend。 Ionahaslongenjoyed，withoutanyverycredibleattestation，thehonourofbeingreputedthecemeteryoftheScottishKings。Itisnotunlikely，that，whentheopinionoflocalsanctitywasprevalent，theChieftainsoftheIsles，andperhapssomeoftheNorwegianorIrishprinceswererepositedinthisvenerableenclosure。Butbywhomthesubterraneousvaultsarepeopledisnowutterlyunknown。Thegravesareverynumerous，andsomeofthemundoubtedlycontaintheremainsofmen，whodidnotexpecttobesosoonforgotten。 Notfarfromthisawfulground，maybetracedthegardenofthemonastery:thefishpondsareyetdiscernible，andtheaqueduct，whichsuppliedthem，isstillinuse。 Thereremainsabrokenbuilding，whichiscalledtheBishop\'shouse，Iknownotbywhatauthority。Itwasoncetheresidenceofsomemanabovethecommonrank，forithastwostoriesandachimney。Wewereshewnachimneyattheotherend，whichwasonlyanich，withoutperforation，butsomuchdoesantiquariancredulity，orpatriotickvanityprevail，thatitwasnotmuchmoresafetotrusttheeyeofourinstructorthanthememory。 ThereisintheIslandonehousemore，andonlyone，thathasachimney:weenteredit，andfounditneitherwantingrepairnorinhabitants；buttothefarmers，whonowpossessit，thechimneyisofnogreatvalue；fortheirfirewasmadeonthefloor，inthemiddleoftheroom，andnotwithstandingthedignityoftheirmansion，theyrejoiced，liketheirneighbours，inthecomfortsofsmoke。 Itisobserved，thatecclesiasticalcollegesarealwaysinthemostpleasantandfruitfulplaces。Whiletheworldallowedthemonkstheirchoice，itissurelynodishonourthattheychosewell。ThisIslandisremarkablyfruitful。Thevillagenearthechurchesissaidtocontainseventyfamilies，which，atfiveinafamily，ismorethanahundredinhabitantstoamile。Thereareperhapsothervillages:yetbothcornandcattleareannuallyexported。 ButthefruitfulnessofIonaisnowitswholeprosperity。Theinhabitantsareremarkablygross，andremarkablyneglected:IknownotiftheyarevisitedbyanyMinister。TheIsland，whichwasoncethemetropolisoflearningandpiety，hasnownoschoolforeducation，nortempleforworship，onlytwoinhabitantsthatcanspeakEnglish，andnotonethatcanwriteorread。 ThepeopleareoftheclanofMaclean；andthoughSirAllanhadnotbeenintheplaceformanyyears，hewasreceivedwithallthereverenceduetotheirChieftain。Oneofthembeingsharplyreprehendedbyhim，fornotsendinghimsomerum，declaredafterhisdeparture，inMr。Boswell\'spresence，thathehadnodesignofdisappointinghim，\'for，\'saidhe，\'Iwouldcutmybonesforhim； andifhehadsenthisdogforit，heshouldhavehadit。\' Whenweweretodepart，ourboatwasleftbytheebbatagreatdistancefromthewater，butnosoonerdidwewishitafloat，thantheislandersgatheredroundit，and，bytheunionofmanyhands，pusheditdownthebeach；everymanwhocouldcontributehishelpseemedtothinkhimselfhappyintheopportunityofbeing，foramoment，usefultohisChief。 Wenowleftthoseillustriousruins，bywhichMr。Boswellwasmuchaffected，norwouldIwillinglybethoughttohavelookeduponthemwithoutsomeemotion。Perhaps，intherevolutionsoftheworld，IonamaybesometimeagaintheinstructressoftheWesternRegions。 ItwasnolongvoyagetoMull，where，underSirAllan\'sprotection，welandedintheevening，andwereentertainedforthenightbyMr。 Maclean，aMinisterthatlivesuponthecoast，whoseeleganceofconversation，andstrengthofjudgment，wouldmakehimconspicuousinplacesofgreatercelebrity。NextdaywedinedwithDr。 Maclean，anotherphysician，andthentravelledontothehouseofaverypowerfulLaird，MacleanofLochbuy；forinthiscountryeveryman\'snameisMaclean。 Whereracesarethusnumerous，andthuscombined，nonebuttheChiefofaclanisaddressedbyhisname。TheLairdofDunveganiscalledMacleod，butothergentlemenofthesamefamilyaredenominatedbytheplaceswheretheyreside，asRaasa，orTalisker。 ThedistinctionofthemeanerpeopleismadebytheirChristiannames。Inconsequenceofthispractice，thelateLairdofMacfarlane，aneminentgenealogist，consideredhimselfasdisrespectfullytreated，ifthecommonadditionwasappliedtohim。 Mr。Macfarlane，saidhe，maywithequalproprietybesaidtomany； butI，andIonly，amMacfarlane。 Ourafternoonjourneywasthroughacountryofsuchgloomydesolation，thatMr。BoswellthoughtnopartoftheHighlandsequallyterrifick，yetwecamewithoutanydifficulty，atevening，toLochbuy，wherewefoundatrueHighlandLaird，roughandhaughty，andtenaciousofhisdignity；who，hearingmyname，inquiredwhetherIwasoftheJohnstonsofGlencroe，orofArdnamurchan。 Lochbuyhas，liketheotherinsularChieftains，quittedthecastlethatshelteredhisancestors，andlivesnearit，inamansionnotveryspaciousorsplendid。IhaveseennohousesintheIslandsmuchtobeenviedforconvenienceormagnificence，yettheybaretestimonytotheprogressofartsandcivility，astheyshewthatrapineandsurprisearenolongerdreaded，andaremuchmorecommodiousthantheancientfortresses。 ThecastlesoftheHebrides，manyofwhicharestanding，andmanyruined，werealwaysbuiltuponpointsofland，onthemarginofthesea。Forthechoiceofthissituationtheremusthavebeensomegeneralreason，whichthechangeofmannershasleftinobscurity。 Theywereofnouseinthedaysofpiracy，asdefencesofthecoast；foritwasequallyaccessibleinotherplaces。Hadtheybeensea-marksorlight-houses，theywouldhavebeenofmoreusetotheinvaderthanthenatives，whocouldwantnosuchdirectionsoftheirownwaters:forawatch-tower，acottageonahillwouldhavebeenbetter，asitwouldhavecommandedawiderview。 Iftheybeconsideredmerelyasplacesofretreat，thesituationseemsnotwellchosen；fortheLairdofanIslandissafestfromforeignenemiesinthecenter；onthecoasthemightbemoresuddenlysurprisedthanintheinlandparts；andtheinvaders，iftheirenterprisemiscarried，mightmoreeasilyretreat。Someconvenience，however，whateveritwas，theirpositionontheshoreafforded；foruniformityofpracticeseldomcontinueslongwithoutgoodreason。 AcastleintheIslandsisonlyasingletowerofthreeorfourstories，ofwhichthewallsaresometimeseightorninefeetthick，withnarrowwindows，andclosewindingstairsofstone。Thetoprisesinacone，orpyramidofstone，encompassedbybattlements。 Theintermediatefloorsaresometimesframesoftimber，asincommonhouses，andsometimesarchesofstone，oralternatelystoneandtimber；sothattherewasverylittledangerfromfire。Inthecenterofeveryfloor，fromtoptobottom，isthechiefroom，ofnogreatextent，roundwhichtherearenarrowcavities，orrecesses，formedbysmallvacuities，orbyadoublewall。Iknownotwhethertherebeevermorethanonefire-place。Theyhadnotcapacitytocontainmanypeople，ormuchprovision；buttheirenemiescouldseldomstaytoblockadethem；foriftheyfailedinthefirstattack，theirnextcarewastoescape。 Thewallswerealwaystoostrongtobeshakenbysuchdesultoryhostilities；thewindowsweretoonarrowtobeentered，andthebattlementstoohightobescaled。Theonlydangerwasatthegates，overwhichthewallwasbuiltwithasquarecavity，notunlikeachimney，continuedtothetop。Throughthishollowthedefendantsletfallstonesuponthosewhoattemptedtobreakthegate，andpoureddownwater，perhapsscaldingwater，iftheattackwasmadewithfire。ThecastleofLochbuywassecuredbydoubledoors，ofwhichtheouterwasanirongrate。 Ineverycastleisawellandadungeon。Theuseofthewellisevident。Thedungeonisadeepsubterraneouscavity，walledonthesides，andarchedonthetop，intowhichthedescentisthroughanarrowdoor，byaladderorarope，sothatitseemsimpossibletoescape，whentheropeorladderisdrawnup。Thedungeonwas，I suppose，inwar，aprisonforsuchcaptivesasweretreatedwithseverity，and，inpeace，forsuchdelinquentsashadcommittedcrimeswithintheLaird\'sjurisdiction；forthemansionsofmanyLairdswere，tillthelateprivationoftheirprivileges，thehallsofjusticetotheirowntenants。 Asthesefortificationsweretheproductionsofmerenecessity，theyarebuiltonlyforsafety，withlittleregardtoconvenience，andwithnonetoeleganceorpleasure。ItwassufficientforaLairdoftheHebrides，ifhehadastronghouse，inwhichhecouldhidehiswifeandchildrenfromthenextclan。Thattheyarenotlargenorsplendidisnowonder。Itisnoteasytofindhowtheywereraised，suchastheyare，bymenwhohadnomoney，incountrieswherethelabourersandartificerscouldscarcelybefed。 ThebuildingsindifferentpartsoftheIslandshewtheirdegreesofwealthandpower。IbelievethatforallthecastleswhichI haveseenbeyondtheTweed，theruinsyetremainingofsomeoneofthosewhichtheEnglishbuiltinWales，wouldsupplymaterials。 Thesecastlesaffordanotherevidencethatthefictionsofromantickchivalryhadfortheirbasistherealmannersofthefeudaltimes，wheneveryLordofaseignorylivedinhisholdlawlessandunaccountable，withallthelicentiousnessandinsolenceofuncontestedsuperiorityandunprincipledpower。Thetraveller，whoeverhemightbe，comingtothefortifiedhabitationofaChieftain，would，probably，havebeeninterrogatedfromthebattlements，admittedwithcautionatthegate，introducedtoapettyMonarch，fiercewithhabitualhostility，andvigilantwithignorantsuspicion；who，accordingtohisgeneraltemper，oraccidentalhumour，wouldhaveseatedastrangerashisguestatthetable，orasaspyconfinedhiminthedungeon。 LochbuymeanstheYellowLake，whichisthenamegiventoaninletofthesea，uponwhichthecastleofMr。Macleanstands。Thereasonoftheappellationwedidnotlearn。 WewerenowtoleavetheHebrides，wherewehadspentsomeweekswithsufficientamusement，andwherewehadamplifiedourthoughtswithnewscenesofnature，andnewmodesoflife。Moretimewouldhavegivenusamoredistinctview，butitwasnecessarythatMr。 Boswellshouldreturnbeforethecourtsofjusticewereopened；anditwasnotpropertolivetoolonguponhospitality，howeverliberallyimparted。 OftheseIslandsitmustbeconfessed，thattheyhavenotmanyallurements，buttothemereloverofnakednature。Theinhabitantsarethin，provisionsarescarce，anddesolationandpenurygivelittlepleasure。 Thepeoplecollectivelyconsideredarenotfew，thoughtheirnumbersaresmallinproportiontothespacewhichtheyoccupy。 Mullissaidtocontainsixthousand，andSkyfifteenthousand。OfthecomputationrespectingMull，Icangivenoaccount；butwhenI doubtedthetruthofthenumbersattributedtoSky，oneoftheMinistersexhibitedsuchfactsasconqueredmyincredulity。 Oftheproportion，whichtheproductofanyregionbearstothepeople，anestimateiscommonlymadeaccordingtothepecuniarypriceofthenecessariesoflife；aprincipleofjudgmentwhichisnevercertain，becauseitsupposeswhatisfarfromtruth，thatthevalueofmoneyisalwaysthesame，andsomeasuresanunknownquantitybyanuncertainstandard。Itiscompetentenoughwhenthemarketsofthesamecountry，atdifferenttimes，andthosetimesnottoodistant，aretobecompared；butofverylittleuseforthepurposeofmakingonenationacquaintedwiththestateofanother。 Provisions，thoughplentiful，aresoldinplacesofgreatpecuniaryopulencefornominalprices，towhich，howeverscarce，wheregoldandsilverareyetscarcer，theycanneverberaised。 IntheWesternIslandsthereissolittleinternalcommerce，thathardlyanythinghasaknownorsettledrate。Thepriceofthingsbroughtin，orcarriedout，istobeconsideredasthatofaforeignmarket；andeventhisthereissomedifficultyindiscovering，becausetheirdenominationsofquantityaredifferentfromours；andwhenthereisignoranceonbothsides，noappealcanbemadetoacommonmeasure。 This，however，isnottheonlyimpediment。TheScots，withavigilanceofjealousywhichnevergoestosleep，alwayssuspectthatanEnglishmandespisesthemfortheirpoverty，andtoconvincehimthattheyarenotlessrichthantheirneighbours，aresuretotellhimapricehigherthanthetrue。WhenLesley，twohundredyearsago，relatedsopunctiliously，thatahundredheneggs，newlaid，weresoldintheIslandsforapeny，hesupposedthatnoinferencecouldpossiblyfollow，butthateggswereingreatabundance。Posterityhassincegrownwiser；andhavinglearned，thatnominalandrealvaluemaydiffer，theynowtellnosuchstories，lesttheforeignershouldhappentocollect，notthateggsaremany，butthatpencearefew。 Moneyandwealthhavebytheuseofcommerciallanguagebeensolongconfounded，thattheyarecommonlysupposedtobethesame； andthisprejudicehasspreadsowidelyinScotland，thatIknownotwhetherIfoundmanorwoman，whomIinterrogatedconcerningpaymentsofmoney，thatcouldsurmounttheilliberaldesireofdeceivingme，byrepresentingeverythingasdearerthanitis。 FromLochbuywerodeaveryfewmilestothesideofMull，whichfacesScotland，where，havingtakenleaveofourkindprotector，SirAllan，weembarkedinaboat，inwhichtheseatprovidedforouraccommodationwasaheapofroughbrushwood；andonthetwenty- secondofOctoberreposedatatolerableinnonthemainland。 Onthenextdaywebeganourjourneysouthwards。Theweatherwastempestuous。Forhalfthedaythegroundwasrough，andourhorseswerestillsmall。Hadtheyrequiredmuchrestraint，wemighthavebeenreducedtodifficulties；forIthinkwehadamongstusbutonebridle。Wefedthepooranimalsliberally，andtheyperformedtheirjourneywell。Inthelatterpartoftheday，wecametoafirmandsmoothroad，madebythesoldiers，onwhichwetravelledwithgreatsecurity，busiedwithcontemplatingthesceneaboutus。 Thenightcameonwhilewehadyetagreatpartofthewaytogo，thoughnotsodark，butthatwecoulddiscernthecataractswhichpoureddownthehills，ononeside，andfellintoonegeneralchannelthatranwithgreatviolenceontheother。Thewindwasloud，therainwasheavy，andthewhistlingoftheblast，thefalloftheshower，therushofthecataracts，andtheroarofthetorrent，madeanoblerchorusoftheroughmusickofnaturethanithadeverbeenmychancetohearbefore。Thestreams，whichrancrossthewayfromthehillstothemaincurrent，weresofrequent，thatafterawhileIbegantocountthem；and，intenmiles，reckonedfifty-five，probablymissingsome，andhavingletsomepassbeforetheyforcedthemselvesuponmynotice。AtlastwecametoInverary，wherewefoundaninn，notonlycommodious，butmagnificent。 Thedifficultiesofperegrinationwerenowatanend。Mr。BoswellhadthehonourofbeingknowntotheDukeofArgyle，bywhomwewereverykindlyentertainedathissplendidseat，andsuppliedwithconveniencesforsurveyinghisspaciousparkandrisingforests。 AftertwodaysstayatInveraryweproceededSouthwardoverGlencroe，ablackanddrearyregion，nowmadeeasilypassablebyamilitaryroad，whichrisesfromeitherendoftheglenbyanacclivitynotdangerouslysteep，butsufficientlylaborious。Inthemiddle，atthetopofthehill，isaseatwiththisinscription，\'Rest，andbethankful。\'Stoneswereplacedtomarkthedistances，whichtheinhabitantshavetakenaway，resolved，theysaid，\'tohavenonewmiles。\' Inthisrainyseasonthehillsstreamedwithwaterfalls，which，crossingtheway，formedcurrentsontheotherside，thatranincontrarydirectionsastheyfelltothenorthorsouthofthesummit。Being，bythefavouroftheDuke，wellmounted，Iwentupanddownthehillwithgreatconvenience。 FromGlencroewepassedthroughapleasantcountrytothebanksofLochLomond，andwerereceivedatthehouseofSirJamesColquhoun，whoisownerofalmostallthethirtyislandsoftheLoch，whichwewentinaboatnextmorningtosurvey。Theheavinessoftherainshortenedourvoyage，butwelandedononeislandplantedwithyew，andstockedwithdeer，andonanothercontainingperhapsnotmorethanhalfanacre，remarkablefortheruinsofanoldcastle，onwhichtheospreybuildsherannualnest。HadLochLomondbeeninahappierclimate，itwouldhavebeentheboastofwealthandvanitytoownoneofthelittlespotswhichitincloses，andtohaveemployeduponitalltheartsofembellishment。Butasitis，theislets，whichcourtthegazeratadistance，disgusthimathisapproach，whenhefinds，insteadofsoftlawns；andshadythickets，nothingmorethanuncultivatedruggedness。 WheretheLochdischargesitselfintoariver，calledtheLeven，wepassedanightwithMr。Smollet，arelationofDoctorSmollet，towhosememoryhehasraisedanobeliskonthebanknearthehouseinwhichhewasborn。Thecivilityandrespectwhichwefoundateveryplace，itisungratefultoomit，andtedioustorepeat。Hereweweremetbyapost-chaise，thatconveyedustoGlasgow。 TodescribeacitysomuchfrequentedasGlasgow，isunnecessary。 Theprosperityofitscommerceappearsbythegreatnessofmanyprivatehouses，andageneralappearanceofwealth。ItistheonlyepiscopalcitywhosecathedralwasleftstandingintherageofReformation。Itisnowdividedintomanyseparateplacesofworship，which，takenalltogether，composeagreatpile，thathadbeensomecenturiesinbuilding，butwasneverfinished；forthechangeofreligionintercepteditsprogress，beforethecrossislewasadded，whichseemsessentialtoaGothickcathedral。 Thecollegehasnothadasufficientshareoftheincreasingmagnificenceoftheplace。Thesessionwasbegun；foritcommencesonthetenthofOctoberandcontinuestothetenthofJune，butthestudentsappearednotnumerous，being，Isuppose，notyetreturnedfromtheirseveralhomes。Thedivisionoftheacademicalyearintoonesession，andonerecess，seemstomebetteraccommodatedtothepresentstateoflife，thanthatvariegationoftimebytermsandvacationsderivedfromdistantcenturies，inwhichitwasprobablyconvenient，andstillcontinuedintheEnglishuniversities。SomanysolidmonthsastheScotchschemeofeducationjoinstogether，allowandencourageaplanforeachpartoftheyear；butwithus，hethathassettledhimselftostudyinthecollegeissoontemptedintothecountry，andhethathasadjustedhislifeinthecountry，issummonedbacktohiscollege。 YetwhenIhaveallowedtotheuniversitiesofScotlandamorerationaldistributionoftime，Ihavegiventhem，sofarasmyinquirieshaveinformedme，allthattheycanclaim。Thestudents，forthemostpart，gothitherboys，anddepartbeforetheyaremen； theycarrywiththemlittlefundamentalknowledge，andthereforethesuperstructurecannotbelofty。Thegrammarschoolsarenotgenerallywellsupplied；forthecharacterofaschool-masterbeingtherelesshonourablethaninEngland，isseldomacceptedbymenwhoarecapabletoadornit，andwheretheschoolhasbeendeficient，thecollegecaneffectlittle。 MenbredintheuniversitiesofScotlandcannotbeexpectedtobeoftendecoratedwiththesplendoursofornamentalerudition，buttheyobtainamediocrityofknowledge，betweenlearningandignorance，notinadequatetothepurposesofcommonlife，whichis，Ibelieve，verywidelydiffusedamongthem，andwhichcountenancedingeneralbyanationalcombinationsoinvidious，thattheirfriendscannotdefendit，andactuatedinparticularsbyaspiritofenterprise，sovigorous，thattheirenemiesareconstrainedtopraiseit，enablesthemtofind，ortomaketheirwaytoemployment，riches，anddistinction。 FromGlasgowwedirectedourcoursetoAuchinleck，anestatedevolved，throughalongseriesofancestors，toMr。Boswell\'sfather，thepresentpossessor。Inourwaywefoundseveralplacesremarkableenoughinthemselves，butalreadydescribedbythosewhoviewedthematmoreleisure，orwithmuchmoreskill；andstoppedtwodaysatMr。Campbell\'s，agentlemanmarriedtoMr。Boswell\'ssister。 Auchinleck，whichsignifiesastonyfield，seemsnotnowtohaveanyparticularclaimtoitsdenomination。Itisadistrictgenerallylevel，andsufficientlyfertile，butlikealltheWesternsideofScotland，incommodedbyveryfrequentrain。Itwas，withtherestofthecountry，generallynaked，tillthepresentpossessorfinding，bythegrowthofsomestatelytreesnearhisoldcastle，thatthegroundwasfavourableenoughtotimber，adorneditverydiligentlywithannualplantations。 LordAuchinleck，whoisoneoftheJudgesofScotland，andthereforenotwhollyatleisurefordomestickbusinessorpleasure，hasyetfoundtimetomakeimprovementsinhispatrimony。Hehasbuiltahouseofhewnstone，verystately，anddurable，andhasadvancedthevalueofhislandswithgreattendernesstohistenants。 Iwas，however，lessdelightedwiththeeleganceofthemodernmansion，thanwiththesullendignityoftheoldcastle。I clamberedwithMr。Boswellamongtheruins，whichaffordstrikingimagesofancientlife。Itis，likeothercastles，builtuponapointofrock，andwas，Ibelieve，ancientlysurroundedwithamoat。Thereisanotherrocknearit，towhichthedrawbridge，whenitwasletdown，issaidtohavereached。Here，intheagesoftumultandrapine，theLairdwassurprisedandkilledbytheneighbouringChief，whoperhapsmighthaveextinguishedthefamily，hadhenotinafewdaysbeenseizedandhanged，togetherwithhissons，byDouglas，whocamewithhisforcestothereliefofAuchinleck。 Atnogreatdistancefromthehouserunsapleasingbrook，byaredrock，outofwhichhasbeenhewnaveryagreeableandcommodioussummer-house，atlessexpence，asLordAuchinlecktoldme，thanwouldhavebeenrequiredtobuildaroomofthesamedimensions。 Therockseemstohavenomoredampnessthananyotherwall。Suchopportunitiesofvarietyitisjudiciousnottoneglect。 WenowreturnedtoEdinburgh，whereIpassedsomedayswithmenoflearning，whosenameswantnoadvancementfrommycommemoration，orwithwomenofelegance，whichperhapsdisclaimsapedant\'spraise。 TheconversationoftheScotsgrowseverydaylessunpleasingtotheEnglish；theirpeculiaritieswearfastaway；theirdialectislikelytobecomeinhalfacenturyprovincialandrustick，eventothemselves。Thegreat，thelearned，theambitious，andthevain，allcultivatetheEnglishphrase，andtheEnglishpronunciation，andinsplendidcompaniesScotchisnotmuchheard，exceptnowandthenfromanoldLady。 ThereisonesubjectofphilosophicalcuriositytobefoundinEdinburgh，whichnoothercityhastoshew；acollegeofthedeafanddumb，whoaretaughttospeak，toread，towrite，andtopracticearithmetick，byagentleman，whosenameisBraidwood。Thenumberwhichattendshimis，Ithink，abouttwelve，whichhebringstogetherintoalittleschool，andinstructsaccordingtotheirseveraldegreesofproficiency。 Idonotmeantomentiontheinstructionofthedeafasnew。 HavingbeenfirstpractiseduponthesonofaconstableofSpain，itwasafterwardscultivatedwithmuchemulationinEngland，byWallisandHolder，andwaslatelyprofessedbyMr。Baker，whoonceflatteredmewithhopesofseeinghismethodpublished。Howfaranyformerteachershavesucceeded，itisnoteasytoknow；theimprovementofMr。Braidwood\'spupilsiswonderful。Theynotonlyspeak，write，andunderstandwhatiswritten，butifhethatspeakslookstowardsthem，andmodifieshisorgansbydistinctandfullutterance，theyknowsowellwhatisspoken，thatitisanexpressionscarcelyfigurativetosay，theyhearwiththeeye。 ThatanyhaveattainedtothepowermentionedbyBurnet，offeelingsounds，bylayingahandonthespeaker\'smouth，Iknownot；butI haveseensomuch，thatIcanbelievemore；asingleword，orashortsentence，Ithink，maypossiblybesodistinguished。 Itwillreadilybesupposedbythosethatconsiderthissubject，thatMr。Braidwood\'sscholarsspellaccurately。Orthographyisvitiatedamongsuchaslearnfirsttospeak，andthentowrite，byimperfectnotionsoftherelationbetweenlettersandvocalutterance；buttothosestudentseverycharacterisofequalimportance；forlettersaretothemnotsymbolsofnames，butofthings；whentheywritetheydonotrepresentasound，butdelineateaform。 ThisschoolIvisited，andfoundsomeofthescholarswaitingfortheirmaster，whomtheyaresaidtoreceiveathisentrancewithsmilingcountenancesandsparklingeyes，delightedwiththehopeofnewideas。OneoftheyoungLadieshadherslatebeforeher，onwhichIwroteaquestionconsistingofthreefigures，tobemultipliedbytwofigures。Shelookeduponit，andquiveringherfingersinamannerwhichIthoughtverypretty，butofwhichI knownotwhetheritwasartorplay，multipliedthesumregularlyintwolines，observingthedecimalplace；butdidnotaddthetwolinestogether，probablydisdainingsoeasyanoperation。I pointedattheplacewherethesumtotalshouldstand，andshenoteditwithsuchexpeditionasseemedtoshewthatshehaditonlytowrite。 Itwaspleasingtoseeoneofthemostdesperateofhumancalamitiescapableofsomuchhelp；whateverenlargeshope，willexaltcourage；afterhavingseenthedeaftaughtarithmetick，whowouldbeafraidtocultivatetheHebrides? Sucharethethingswhichthisjourneyhasgivenmeanopportunityofseeing，andsucharethereflectionswhichthatsighthasraised。Havingpassedmytimealmostwhollyincities，Imayhavebeensurprisedbymodesoflifeandappearancesofnature，thatarefamiliartomenofwidersurveyandmorevariedconversation。 Noveltyandignorancemustalwaysbereciprocal，andIcannotbutbeconsciousthatmythoughtsonnationalmanners，arethethoughtsofonewhohasseenbutlittle。