Severalnativehutsnowpeepoutfromthebananasandcocoa-palmsontherightbank;theystandonpilesafewfeetabovethelowdampground,andtheirownersenterthembymeansofladders。Thesoiliswonderfullyrich,andthegardensarereallyexcellent。Riceiscultivatedlargely;sweetpotatoes,pumpkins,tomatoes,cabbages,onions(shalots),peas,alittlecotton,andsugar-canearealsoraised。ItissaidthatEnglishpotatoes,whenplantedatQuillimaneonsoilresemblingthis,inthecourseoftwoyearsbecomeintastelikesweetpotatoes(Convolvulusbatatas),andarelikeourpotatofrosted。ThewholeofthefertileregionextendingfromtheKongonecanaltobeyondMazaro,someeightymilesinlength,andfiftyinbreadth,isadmirablyadaptedforthegrowthofsugar-cane;andwereitinthehandsofourfriendsattheCape,wouldsupplyallEuropewithsugar。Theremarkablyfewpeopleseenappeartobetolerablywellfed,buttherewasadearthofclothingamongthem;allwereblacks,andnearlyallPortuguese\"colonos\"orserfs。Theymanifestednofearofwhitemen,andstoodingroupsonthebankgazinginastonishmentatthesteamers,especiallyatthe\"Pearl,\"
whichaccompaniedusthusfaruptheriver。Oneoldmanwhocameonboardremarkedthatneverbeforehadheseenanyvesselsolargeasthe\"Pearl,\"itwaslikeavillage,\"Wasitmadeoutofonetree?\"
Allwereeagertraders,andsooncameofftotheshipinlightswiftcanoeswitheverykindoffruitandfoodtheypossessed;afewbroughthoneyandbeeswax,whicharefoundinquantitiesinthemangroveforests。Astheshipssteamedoff,manyanxioussellersranalongthebank,holdingupfowls,basketsofriceandmeal,andshouting\"Malonda,Malonda,\"\"thingsforsale,\"whileothersfollowedincanoes,whichtheysentthroughthewaterwithgreatvelocitybymeansofshortbroad-bladedpaddles。
Findingthe\"Pearl\'s\"draughttoogreatforthatpartoftheriverneartheislandofSimbo,wherethebranchcalledtheDotoisgivenofftotheKongoneontherightbank,andanothernamedChindedepartstothesecretcanalalreadymentionedontheleft,thegoodsbelongingtotheexpeditionweretakenoutofher,andplacedononeofthegrassyislandsaboutfortymilesfromthebar。The\"Pearl\"
thenleftus,andwehadtopartwithourgoodfriendsDuncanandSkead;theformerforCeylon,thelattertoreturntohisdutiesasGovernmentSurveyorattheCape。
Ofthosewhoeventuallydidtheworkoftheexpeditionthemajoritytookasobercommon-senseviewoftheenterpriseinwhichwewereengaged。SomeremainedonExpeditionIslandfromthe18thJuneuntilthe13thAugust,whilethelaunchandpinnacewerecarryingthegoodsuptoShupangaandSenna。Thecountrywasinastateofwar,ourluggagewasindanger,andseveralofourpartywereexposedtodiseasefrominactivityinthemalariaofthedelta。HeresomehadtheirfirstintroductiontoAfricanlife,andAfricanfever。Thosealoneweresafewhowereactivelyemployedwiththevessels,andofcourse,rememberingtheperilouspositionoftheirfellows,theystrainedeverynervetofinishtheworkandtakethemaway。
Largecolumnsofsmokerosedailyfromdifferentpointsofthehorizon,showingthatthenativeswereburningofftheimmensecropsoftallgrass,hereanuisance,howevervaluableelsewhere。Awhitecloudwasoftenobservedtorestontheheadofthecolumn,asifacurrentofhotdampairwassentupbytheheatoftheflamesanditsmoisturewascondensedatthetop。Raindidnotfollow,thoughtheoristshaveimaginedthatinsuchcasesitought。
Largegame,buffaloes,andzebras,wereabundantabreasttheisland,butnomencouldbeseen。Onthemainland,overontherightbankoftheriver,wewereamusedbytheeccentricgyrationsandevolutionsofflocksofsmallseed-eatingbirds,whointheirflightwheeledintocompactcolumnswithsuchmilitaryprecisionastogiveustheimpressionthattheymustbeguidedbyaleader,andalldirectedbythesamesignal。Severalotherkindsofsmallbirdsnowgoinflocks,andamongothersthelargeSenegalswallow。Thepresenceofthisbird,beingclearlyinastateofmigrationfromthenorth,whilethecommonswallowofthecountry,andthebrownkiteareawaybeyondtheequator,leadstotheconjecturethattheremaybeadoublemigration,namely,ofbirdsfromtorridclimatestothemoretemperate,asthisnowis,aswellasfromseverewinterstosunnyregions;butthiscouldnotbeverifiedbysuchbirdsofpassageasourselves。
OnreachingMazaro,themouthofanarrowcreekwhichinfloodscommunicateswiththeQuillimaneriver,wefoundthatthePortuguesewereatwarwithahalf-castenamedMarianoaliasMatakenya,fromwhomtheyhadgenerallyfled,andwho,havingbuiltastockadenearthemouthoftheShire,ownedallthecountrybetweenthatriverandMazaro。MarianowasbestknownbyhisnativenameMatakenya,whichintheirtonguemeans\"trembling,\"orquiveringastreesdoinastorm。Hewasakeenslave-hunter,andkeptalargenumberofmen,wellarmedwithmuskets。Itisanentiremistaketosupposethattheslavetradeisoneofbuyingandsellingalone;orthatengagementscanbemadewithlabourersinAfricaastheyareinIndia;Mariano,likeotherPortuguese,hadnolabourtospare。Hehadbeeninthehabitofsendingoutarmedpartiesonslave-huntingforaysamongthehelplesstribestothenorth-east,andcarryingdownthekidnappedvictimsinchainstoQuillimane,wheretheyweresoldbyhisbrother-
in-lawCruzCoimbra,andshippedas\"Freeemigrants\"totheFrenchislandofBourbon。Solongashisrobberiesandmurderswererestrictedtothenativesatadistance,theauthoritiesdidnotinterfere;buthismen,trainedtodeedsofviolenceandbloodshedintheirslaveforays,naturallybegantopractiseonthepeoplenearerathand,thoughbelongingtothePortuguese,andeveninthevillageofSenna,underthegunsofthefort。Agentlemanofthehigheststandingtoldusthat,whileatdinnerwithhisfamily,itwasnouncommoneventforaslavetorushintotheroompursuedbyoneofMariano\'smenwithspearinhandtomurderhim。
Theatrocitiesofthisvillain,aptlytermedbythelategovernorofQuillimanea\"notoriousrobberandmurderer,\"becameatlengthintolerable。AllthePortuguesespokeofhimasararemonsterofinhumanity。Itisunaccountablewhyhalf-castes,suchashe,aresomuchmorecruelthanthePortuguese,butsuchisundoubtedlythecase。
Itwasassertedthatoneofhisfavouritemodesofcreatinganimpressioninthecountry,andmakinghisnamedreaded,wastospearhiscaptiveswithhisownhands。Ononeoccasionheisreportedtohavethuskilledfortypoorwretchesplacedinarowbeforehim。Wedidnotatfirstcreditthesestatements,andthoughtthattheyweremerelyexaggerationsoftheincensedPortuguese,whonaturallyenoughwereexasperatedwithhimforstoppingtheirtrade,andharbouringtheirrunawayslaves;butwelearnedafterwardsfromthenatives,thattheaccountsgivenusbythePortuguesehadnotexceededthetruth;andthatMarianowasquiteasgreataruffianastheyhaddescribedhim。Oneexpectsslave-ownerstotreattheirhumanchattelsaswellasmendootheranimalsofvalue,buttheslave-
tradeseemsalwaystoengenderanunreasoningferocity,ifnotblood-
thirstiness。
WarwasdeclaredagainstMariano,andaforcesenttotakehim;heresistedforatime;butseeingthathewaslikelytogettheworstofit,andknowingthatthePortuguesegovernorshavesmallsalaries,andaretherefore\"disposedtobereasonable,\"hewentdowntoQuillimaneto\"arrange\"withtheGovernor,asitistermedhere;butColoneldaSilvaputhiminprison,andthensenthimfortrialtoMozambique。Whenwecameintothecountry,hispeoplewerefightingunderhisbrotherBonga。Thewarhadlastedsixmonthsandstoppedalltradeontheriverduringthatperiod。Onthe15thJunewefirstcameintocontactwiththe\"rebels。”Theyappearedasacrowdofwell-armedandfantastically-dressedpeopleunderthetreesatMazaro。OnexplainingthatwewereEnglish,someatoncecameonboardandcalledtothoseonshoretolayasidetheirarms。Onlandingamongthemwesawthatmanyhadthebrandedmarksofslavesontheirchests,buttheywarmlyapprovedourobjects,andknewwellthedistinctivecharacterofournationontheslavequestion。Theshoutatourdeparturecontrastedstronglywiththesuspiciousquestioningonourapproach。Hence-forwardwewererecognizedasfriendsbybothparties。
Atalaterperiodweweretakinginwoodwithinamileofthesceneofaction,butadensefogpreventedourhearingthenoiseofabattleatMazaro;andonarrivingthere,immediatelyafter,manynativesandPortugueseappearedonthebank。
Dr。Livingstone,landingtosalutesomeofhisoldfriendsamongthelatter,foundhimselfinthesickeningsmell,andamongthemutilatedbodiesoftheslain;hewasrequestedtotaketheGovernor,whowasveryilloffever,acrosstoShupanga,andjustashegavehisassent,therebelsrenewedthefight,andtheballsbegantowhistleaboutinalldirections。AftertryinginvaintogetsomeonetoassisttheGovernordowntothesteamer,andunwillingtoleavehiminsuchdanger,astheofficersenttobringourKroomendidnotappear,hewentintothehut,anddraggedalonghisExcellencytotheship。Hewasaverytallman,andasheswayedhitherandthitherfromweakness,weighingdownDr。Livingstone
itmusthaveappearedlikeonedrunkenmanhelpinganother。SomeofthePortuguesewhitesoldiersstoodfightingwithgreatbraveryagainsttheenemyinfront,whileafewwerecoollyshootingattheirownslavesforfleeingintotheriverbehind。Therebelssoonretired,andthePortugueseescapedtoasandbankintheZambesi,andthencetoanislandoppositeShupanga,wheretheylayforsomeweeks,lookingattherebelsonthemainlandopposite。ThisstateofinactivityonthepartofthePortuguesecouldnotwellbehelped,astheyhadexpendedalltheirammunitionandwerewaitinganxiouslyforsupplies;hoping,nodoubtsincerely,thattheenemymightnothearthattheirpowderhadfailed。Luckilytheirhopeswerenotdisappointed;therebelswaiteduntilasupplycame,andwerethenrepulsedafterthree-and-a-
halfhours\'hardfighting。TwomonthsafterwardsMariano\'sstockadewasburned,thegarrisonhavingfledinapanic;andasBongadeclaredthathedidnotwishtofightwiththisGovernor,withwhomhehadnoquarrel,thewarsooncametoanend。HisExcellencymeanwhile,beingadiscipleofRaspail,hadtakennothingforthefeverbutalittlecamphor,andafterhewastakentoShupangabecamecomatose。Morepotentremedieswereadministeredtohim,tohisintensedisgust,andhesoonrecovered。TheColonelinattendance,whomheneverafterwardsforgave,encouragedthetreatment。\"Givewhatisright;nevermindhim;heisvery(muito)impertinent:\"andallnightlong,witheverydraughtofwatertheColonelgaveaquantityofquinine:theconsequencewas,nextmorningthepatientwascinchonizedandbetter。
ForsixtyorseventymilesbeforereachingMazaro,thesceneryistameanduninteresting。Oneitherhandisadrearyuninhabitedexpanse,ofthesamelevelgrassyplains,withmerelyafewtreestorelievethepainfulmonotony。Theroundgreentopofthestatelypalm-treelooksatadistance,whenitsgreytrunkcannotbeseen,asthoughhunginmid-air。Manyflocksofbusysand-martins,whichhere,andasfarsouthastheOrangeRiver,donotmigrate,haveperforatedthebankstwoorthreefeethorizontally,inordertoplacetheirnestsattheends,andarenowchasingonrestlesswingthemyriadsoftropicalinsects。Thebroadriverhasmanylowislands,onwhichareseenvariouskindsofwaterfowl,suchasgeese,spoonbills,herons,andflamingoes。Repulsivecrocodiles,aswithopenjawstheysleepandbaskinthesunonthelowbanks,sooncatchthesoundoftherevolvingpaddlesandglidequietlyintothestream。
Thehippopotamus,havingselectedsomestillreachoftherivertospendtheday,risesoutofthebottom,wherehehasbeenenjoyinghismorningbathafterthelaboursofthenightonshore,blowsapuffofsprayfromhisnostrils,shakesthewateroutofhisears,putshisenormoussnoutupstraightandyawns,soundingaloudalarmtotherestoftheherd,withnotesasofamonsterbassoon。
AsweapproachMazarothesceneryimproves。Weseethewell-woodedShupangaridgestretchingtotheleft,andinfrontbluehillsrisedimlyfarinthedistance。ThereisnotradewhateverontheZambesibelowMazaro。AllthemerchandiseofSennaandTetteisbroughttothatpointinlargecanoes,andthencecarriedsixmilesacrossthecountryonmen\'sheadstobereshippedonasmallstreamthatflowsintotheKwakwa,orQuillimaneriver,whichisentirelydistinctfromtheZambesi。OnlyonrareoccasionsandduringthehighestfloodscancanoespassfromtheZambesitotheQuillimaneriverthroughthenarrownaturalcanalMutu。ThenativesofMaruru,orthecountryaroundMazaro,thewordMazaromeaningthe\"mouthofthecreek\"Mutu,haveabadnameamongthePortuguese;theyaresaidtobeexpertthieves,andthemerchantssometimessufferfromtheiradroitnesswhilethegoodsareintransitfromonerivertotheother。Ingeneraltheyaretrainedcanoe-men,andmanmanyofthecanoesthatplythencetoSennaandTette;theirpayissmall,and,nottrustingthetraders,theymustalwayshaveitbeforetheystart。Africansbeingpronetoassignplausiblereasonsfortheirconduct,likewhitemeninmoreenlightenedlands,itispossibletheymaybegood-
humouredlygivingtheirreasonforinsistingonbeinginvariablypaidinadvanceinthewordsoftheirfavouritecanoe-song,\"Uachingere,UachingereKale,\"\"Youcheatedmeofold;\"or,\"Thouartslipperyslipperytruly。”
TheLandeensorZulusarelordsoftherightbankoftheZambesi;andthePortuguese,bypayingthisfightingtribeaprettyheavyannualtribute,practicallyadmitthis。RegularlyeveryyearcometheZulusinforcetoSennaandShupangafortheaccustomedtribute。ThefewwealthymerchantsofSennagroanundertheburden,foritfallschieflyonthem。Theysubmittopayannually200piecesofcloth,ofsixteenyardseach,besidesbeadsandbrasswire,knowingthatrefusalinvolveswar,whichmightendinthelossofalltheypossess。TheZulusappeartokeepassharpalookoutontheSennaandShupangapeopleaseverlandlorddidontenant;themoretheycultivate,themoretributetheyhavetopay。Onaskingsomeofthemwhytheydidnotendeavourtoraisecertainhighlyprofitableproducts,wewereanswered,\"What\'stheuseofourcultivatinganymorethanwedo?theLandeenswouldonlycomedownonusformoretribute。”
IntheforestsofShupangatheMokundu-kundutreeabounds;itsbrightyellowwoodmakesgoodboat-masts,andyieldsastrongbittermedicineforfever;theGunda-treeattainstoanimmensesize;itstimberishard,rathercross-grained,withmassesofsilicadepositedinitssubstance;thelargecanoes,capableofcarryingthreeorfourtons,aremadeofitswood。Forpermissiontocutthesetrees,aPortuguesegentlemanofQuillimanewaspayingtheZulus,in1858,twohundreddollarsayear,andhissuccessornowpaysthreehundred。
AtShupanga,aone-storiedstonehousestandsontheprettiestsiteontheriver。Infrontaslopinglawn,withafinemangoorchardatitssouthernend,leadsdowntothebroadZambesi,whosegreenislandsreposeonthesunnybosomofthetranquilwaters。Beyond,northwards,lievastfieldsandforestsofpalmandtropicaltrees,withthemassivemountainofMorambalatoweringamidstthewhiteclouds;andfurtherawaymoredistanthillsappearinthebluehorizon。ThisbeautifullysituatedhousepossessesamelancholyinterestfromhavingbeenassociatedinamostmournfulmannerwiththehistoryoftwoEnglishexpeditions。Here,in1826,poorKirkpatrick,ofCaptainOwen\'sSurveyingExpedition,diedoffever;
andhere,in1862,died,ofthesamefataldisease,thebelovedwifeofDr。Livingstone。Ahundredyardseastofthehouse,underalargeBaobab-tree,farfromtheirnativeland,bothareburied。
TheShupanga-housewasthehead-quartersoftheGovernorduringtheMarianowar。HetoldusthattheprovinceofMosambiquecoststheHomeGovernmentbetween5000l。and6000l。annually,andEastAfricayieldsnorewardinreturntothemothercountry。WemetthereseveralotherinfluentialPortuguese。Allseemedfriendly,andexpressedtheirwillingnesstoassisttheexpeditionineverywayintheirpower;andbetterstill,ColonelNunesandMajorSicardputtheirgood-willintoaction,bycuttingwoodforthesteamerandsendingmentohelpinunloading。ItwasobservablethatnotoneofthemknewanythingabouttheKongoneMouth;allthoughtthatwehadcomeinbythe\"BarraCatrina,\"orEastLuabo。Dr。Kirkremainedhereafewweeks;and,besidesexploringasmalllaketwentymilestothesouth-west,hadthesolemedicalcareofthesick
andwoundedsoldiers,forwhichvaluableserviceshereceivedthethanksofthePortugueseGovernment。WewoodedupatthisplacewithAfricanebonyorblackwood,andlignumvitae;thelattertreeattainsanimmensesize,sometimesasmuchasfourfeetindiameter;ourengineer,knowingwhatebonyandlignumvitaecostathome,saiditmadehisheartsoretoburnwoodsovaluable。Thoughbotanicallydifferent,theyareextremelyalike;theblackwoodasgrowninsomedistrictsissuperior,andthelignumvitaeinferiorinquality,tothesetimbersbroughtfromothercountries。Caoutchouc,orIndia-rubber,isfoundinabundanceinlandfromShupanga-house,andcalumba-rootisplentifulinthedistrict;indigo,inquantities,propagatesitselfclosetothebanksoftheAver,andwasprobablyatsometimecultivated,formanufacturedindigowasonceexported。TheIndia-
rubberismadeintoballsforagameresembling\"fives,\"andcalumba-
rootissaidtobeusedasamordantforcertaincolours,butnotasadyeitself。
WestartedforTetteonthe17thAugust,1858;thenavigationwasratherdifficult,theZambesifromShupangatoSennabeingwideandfullofislands;ourblackpilot,JohnScisssors,aserf,sometimestookthewrongchannelandranusaground。Nothingabashed,hewouldexclaiminanaggrievedtone,\"Thisisnotthepath,itisbackyonder。”\"Thenwhydidn\'tyougoyonderatfirst?\"growledoutourKroomen,whohadtheworkofgettingthevesseloff。WhentheyspokeroughlytopoorScissors,theweakcringingslave-spiritcameforthin,\"Thosemenscoldmeso,Iamreadytorunaway。”ThismodeoffinishingupanengagementisnotatalluncommonontheZambesi;
severalcasesoccurred,whenwewereontheriver,ofhiredcrewsdecampingwithmostofthegoodsintheircharge。Ifthetradercannotredresshisownwrongs,hehastoendurethem。TheLandeenswillnotsurrenderafugitiveslave,eventohismaster。OnebelongingtoMr。Azevedofled,andwas,asagreatfavouronly,returnedafterapresentofmuchmorethanhisvalue。
WelandedtowoodatShamoara,justbelowtheconfluenceoftheShire。Itsquartzhillsarecoveredwithtreesandgiganticgrasses;
thebuaze,asmallforest-tree,growsabundantly;itisaspeciesofpolygala;itsbeautifulclustersofsweet-scentedpinkishflowersperfumetheairwitharichfragrance;itsseedsproduceafinedryingoil,andthebarkofthesmallerbranchesyieldsafibrefinerandstrongerthanflax;withwhichthenativesmaketheirnetsforfishing。Bonga,thebrotheroftherebelMariano,andnowattheheadoftherevoltednatives,withsomeofhisprincipalmencametoseeus,andwereperfectlyfriendly,thoughtoldofourhavingcarriedthesickGovernoracrosstoShupanga,andofourhavingcuredhimoffever。OnouracquaintingBongawiththeobjectoftheexpedition,heremarkedthatweshouldsuffernohindrancefromhispeopleinourgoodwork。Hesentusapresentofrice,twosheep,andaquantityoffirewood。Henevertriedtomakeanyuseofusinthestrife;theothersideshowedlessconfidence,bycarefullycross-questioningourpilotwhetherwehadsoldanypowdertotheenemy。Wemanaged,however,tokeepongoodtermswithbothrebelsandPortuguese。
Sennaisbuiltonalowplain,ontherightbankoftheZambesi,withsomeprettydetachedhillsinthebackground;itissurroundedbyastockadeoflivingtreestoprotectitsinhabitantsfromtheirtroublesomeandrebelliousneighbours。Itcontainsafewlargehouses,someruinsofothers,andaweather-beatencross,whereoncestoodachurch;amoundshowsthesiteofanancientmonastery,andamudfortbytheriverissodilapidated,thatcowsweregrazingpeacefullyoveritsprostratewalls。
ThefewSennamerchants,havinglittleornotradeinthevillage,sendpartiesoftrustedslavesintotheinteriortohuntforandpurchaseivory。Itisadullplace,andveryconducivetosleep。
OneissuretotakefeverinSennaonthesecondday,ifbychanceoneescapesitonthefirstdayofasojournthere;butnoplaceisentirelybad。Sennahasoneredeemingfeature:itisthenativevillageofthelarge-heartedandhospitableSenhorH。A。Ferrao。Thebenevolenceofthisgentlemanisunbounded。Thepoorblackstrangerpassingthroughthetowngoestohimalmostasamatterofcourseforfood,andisneversentawayhungry。Intimesoffaminethestarvingnativesarefedbyhisgenerosity;hundredsofhisownpeopleheneverseesexceptontheseoccasions;andtheonlybenefitderivedfrombeingtheirmasteris,thattheyleanonhimasapatriarchalchief,andhehasthesatisfactionofsettlingtheirdifferences,andofsavingtheirlivesinseasonsofdroughtandscarcity。
SenhorFerraoreceiveduswithhisusualkindness,andgaveusabountifulbreakfast。Duringthedaytheprincipalmenoftheplacecalled,andwereunanimouslyofopinionthatthefreenativeswouldwillinglycultivatelargequantitiesofcotton,couldtheyfindpurchasers。TheyhadinformertimesexportedlargelybothcottonandclothtoManicaandeventoBrazil。\"Ontheirownsoil,\"theydeclared,\"thenativesarewillingtolabourandtrade,providedonlytheycandosotoadvantage:whenitisfortheirinterest,blacksworkveryhard。”Weoftenremarkedsubsequentlythatthiswastheopinionofmenofenergy;andthatallsettlersofactivity,enterprise,andsoberhabitshadbecomerich,whilethosewhoweremuchaddictedtolyingontheirbackssmoking,invariablycomplainedofthelazinessofthenegroes,andwerepoor,proud,anddespicable。
BeyondPitaliesthelittleislandNyamotobsi,wherewemetasmallfugitivetribeofhippopotamushunters,whohadbeendrivenbywarfromtheirownislandinfront。Allwerebusyatwork;someweremakinggiganticbasketsforgrain,themenplaitingfromtheinside。
Withthecivilitysocommonamongthemthechieforderedamattobespreadforusunderashed,andthenshowedustheweaponwithwhichtheykillthehippopotamus;itisashortironharpooninsertedintheendofalongpole,butbeingintendedtounship,itismadefasttoastrongcordofmilola,orhibiscus,bark,whichiswoundcloselyroundtheentirelengthoftheshaft,andsecuredatitsoppositeend。Twomeninaswiftcanoestealquietlydownonthesleepinganimal。Thebowmandashestheharpoonintotheunconsciousvictim,whilethequicksteersmansweepsthelightcraftbackwithhisbroadpaddle;theforceoftheblowseparatestheharpoonfromitscordedhandle,which,appearingonthesurface,sometimeswithaninflatedbladderattached,guidesthehunterstowherethewoundedbeasthidesbelowuntiltheydespatchit。
Thesehippopotamushuntersformaseparatepeople,calledAkombwi,orMapodzo,andrarely——thewomenitissaidnever——intermarrywithanyothertribe。ThereasonfortheirkeepingalooffromcertainofthenativesontheZambesiisobviousenough,somehavingasgreatanabhorrenceofhippopotamusmeatasMahomedanshaveofswine\'sflesh。
Ourpilot,Scissors,wasoneofthisclass;hewouldnotevencookhisfoodinapotwhichhadcontainedhippopotamusmeat,preferringtogohungrytillhecouldfindanother;andyethetradedeagerlyintheanimal\'stusks,andatewithgreatrelishthefleshofthefoul-
feedingmarabout。Thesehuntersgooutfrequentlyonlongexpeditions,takingintheircanoestheirwivesandchildren,cooking-pots,andsleeping-mats。Whentheyreachagoodgamedistrict,theyerecttemporaryhutsonthebank,andtheredrythemeattheyhavekilled。Theyareratheracomely-lookingrace,withveryblacksmoothskins,andneverdisfigurethemselveswiththefrightfulornamentsofsomeoftheothertribes。Thechiefdeclinedtosellaharpoon,becausetheycouldnotnowgetthemilolabarkfromthecoastonaccountofMariano\'swar。HeexpressedsomedoubtsaboutourbeingchildrenofthesameAlmightyFather,remarkingthat\"theycouldnotbecomewhite,letthemwasheversomuch。”Wemadehimapresentofabitofcloth,andheverygenerouslygaveusinreturnsomefinefreshfishandIndiancorn。
Theheatoftheweathersteadilyincreasesduringthismonth(August),andfoggymorningsarenowrare。Astrongbreezeendinginagaleblowsupstreameverynight。Itcameintheafternoonafewweeksago,thenlater,andatpresentitsarrivalisnearmidnight;
itmakesourfrailcabin-doorsflyopenbeforeit,butcontinuesonlyforashorttime,andissucceededbyadeadcalm。Gamebecomesmoreabundant;nearourwooding-placesweseeherdsofzebras,bothBurchell\'sandthemountainvariety,pallahs(Antelopemelampus),waterbuck,andwildhogs,withthespoorofbuffaloesandelephants。
ShirambaDembe,ontherightbank,isdeserted;afewoldirongunsshowwherearebelstockadeoncestood;neartheriverabovethis,standsamagnificentBaobabhollowedoutintoagood-sizedhut,withbarkinsideaswellaswithout。TheoldoaksinSherwoodForest,whenhollow,havetheinsidedeadorrotten;buttheBaobab,thoughstrippedofitsbarkoutside,andhollowedtoacavityinside,hasthepowerofexudingnewbarkfromitssubstancetoboththeouterandinnersurfaces;so,ahutmadelikethatintheoakcalledthe\"ForestQueen,\"inSherwood,wouldsoonallbelinedwithbark。
TheportionsoftherivercalledShigogoandShipangaareborderedbyalowlevelexpanseofmarshycountry,withoccasionalclumpsofpalm-treesandafewthornyacacias。Theriveritselfspreadsouttoawidthoffromthreetofourmiles,withmanyislands,amongwhichitisdifficulttonavigate,exceptwhentheriverisinflood。Infront,arangeofhighhillsfromthenorth-eastcrossesandcompressesitintoadeepnarrowchannel,calledtheLupataGorge。
ThePortuguesethoughtthesteamerwouldnotstemthecurrenthere;
butasitwasnotmorethanaboutthreeknots,andastherewasastrongbreezeinourfavour,steamandsailsgotherthroughwithease。Heavy-ladencanoestaketwodaystogoupthispass。A