Thesunisexcessivelyhot,andfeelssharpinAfrica;but,probablyfromthegreaterdrynessoftheatmosphere,weneverheardofasinglecaseofsunstroke,socommoninIndia。TheMakololotoldDr。Livingstonethey\"alwaysthoughthehadaheart,butnowtheybelievedhehadnone,\"andtriedtopersuadeDr。Kirktoreturn,onthegroundthatitmustbeevidentthat,inattemptingtogowherenolivingfootcouldtread,hisleaderhadgivenunmistakeablesignsofhavinggonemad。Alltheireffortsofpersuasion,however,werelostuponDr。Kirk,ashehadnotyetlearnedtheirlanguage,andhisleader,knowinghiscompaniontobeequallyanxiouswithhimselftosolvetheproblemofthenavigablenessofKebrabasa,wasnotatpainstoenlightenhim。Atonepartabaremountainspurbarredtheway,andhadtobesurmountedbyaperilousandcircuitousroute,alongwhichthecragsweresohotthatitwasscarcelypossibleforthehandtoholdonlongenoughtoensuresafetyinthepassage;
andhadtheforemostofthepartylosthishold,hewouldhavehurledallbehindhimintotheriveratthefootofthepromontory;yetinthiswildhotregion,astheydescendedagaintotheriver,theymetafishermancastinghishand-netintotheboilingeddies,andhepointedoutthecataractofMorumbwa;withinanhourtheyweretryingtomeasureitfromanoverhangingrock,ataheightofaboutonehundredfeet。Whenyoustandfacingthecataract,onthenorthbank,youseethatitissituatedinasuddenbendoftheriver,whichisflowinginashortcurve;theriveraboveitisjammedbetweentwomountainsinachannelwithperpendicularsides,andlessthanfiftyyardswide;oneortwomassesofrockjutout,andthenthereisaslopingfallofperhapstwentyfeetinadistanceofthirtyyards。Itwouldstopallnavigation,exceptduringthehighestfloods;therocksshowedthatthewaterthenrisesupwardsofeightyfeetperpendicularly。
Stillkeepingthepositionfacingthecataract,onitsrightsiderisesMountMorumbwafrom2000to3000feethigh,whichgivesthenametothespot。Ontheleftofthecataractstandsanoticeablemountainwhichmaybecalledonion-shaped,foritispartlyconicalandalargeconcaveflakehaspeeledoff,asgraniteoftendoes,andleftabroad,smoothconvexfaceasifitwereanenormousbulb。
Thesetwomountainsextendtheirbasesnorthwardsabouthalfamile,andtheriverinthatdistance,stillverynarrow,issmooth,withafewdetachedrocksstandingoutfromitsbed。TheyclimbedashighupthebaseofMountMorumbwa,whichtouchesthecataract,astheyrequired。Therockswereallwater-wornandsmooth,withhugepotholes,evenat100feetabovelowwater。Whenatalaterperiodtheyclimbedupthenorth-westernbaseofthissamemountain,thefamiliarfaceoftheonion-shapedoneoppositewasatoncerecognised;onepointofviewonthetalusofMountMorumbwawasnotmorethan700or800yardsdistantfromtheother,andtheythencompletedthesurveyofKebrabasafromendtoend。
Theydidnotattempttoreturnbythewaytheycame,butscaledtheslopeofthemountainonthenorth。Ittookthemthreehours\'hardlabourincuttingtheirwayupthroughthedensethornbushwhichcoveredtheascent。Thefaceoftheslopewasoftenaboutanangleof70degrees,yettheirguideShokumbenla,whosehard,hornysoles,resemblingthoseofelephants,showedthathewasaccustomedtothisroughandhotwork,carriedapotofwaterforthemnearlyallthewayup。TheysleptthatnightatawellinatufaceousrockontheN。W。ofChipereziwa,andneverwassleepmoresweet。
Abandofnativemusicianscametoourcamponeevening,onourownwaydown,andtreateduswiththeirwildandnotunpleasantmusicontheMarimba,aninstrumentformedofbarsofhardwoodofvaryingbreadthandthickness,laidondifferent-sizedhollowcalabashes,andtunedtogivethenotes;afewpiecesofclothpleasedthem,andtheypassedon。
TherainyseasonofTettediffersalittlefromthatofsomeoftheotherintertropicalregions;thequantityofrain-fallbeingconsiderablyless。ItbeginsinNovemberandendsinApril。Duringourfirstseasoninthatplace,onlyalittleovernineteeninchesofrainfell。Inanaverageyear,andwhenthecropsaregood,thefallamountstoaboutthirty-fiveinches。Onmanydaysitdoesnotrainatall,andrarelyisitwetallday;somedayshavemerelyapassingshower,precededandfollowedbyhotsunshine;occasionallyanintervalofaweek,orevenafortnight,passeswithoutadropofrain,andthenthecropssufferfromthesun。ThesepartialdroughtshappeninDecemberandJanuary。Theheatappearstoincreasetoacertainpointinthedifferentlatitudessoastonecessitateachange,bysomelawsimilartothatwhichregulatestheintensecoldinothercountries。Afterseveraldaysofprogressiveheathere,onthehottestofwhichthethermometerprobablyreaches103degreesintheshade,abreakoccursintheweather,andathunderstormcoolstheairforatime。AtKuruman,whenthethermometerstoodabove84
degrees,rainmightbeexpected;atKolobeng,thepointatwhichwelookedforastormwas96degrees。TheZambesiisinfloodtwiceinthecourseoftheyear;thefirstflood,apartialone,attainsitsgreatestheightabouttheendofDecemberorbeginningofJanuary;
thesecond,andgreatest,occursaftertheriverinundatestheinterior,inamannersimilartotheoverflowoftheNile,thisrisenottakingplaceatTetteuntilMarch。ThePortuguesesaythatthegreatestheightwhichtheMarchfloodsattainisthirtyfeetatTette,andthishappensonlyabouteveryfourthyear;theirobservations,however,haveneverbeenveryaccurateonanythingbutivory,andtheyhaveinthiscasetrustedtomemoryalone。TheonlyfluviometeratTette,oranywhereelseontheriver,wassetupatoursuggestion;andthefirstfloodwasatitsgreatestheightofthirteenfeetsixinchesonthe17thJanuary,1859,andthengraduallyfellafewfeet,untilsucceededbythegreaterfloodofMarch。Theriverrisessuddenly,thewaterishighlydiscolouredandimpure,andthereisafour-knotcurrentinmanyplaces;butinadayortwoafterthefirstrushofwatersispassed,thecurrentbecomesmoreequallyspreadoverthewholebedoftheriver,andresumesitsusualrateinthechannel,althoughcontinuinginflood。TheZambesiwateratothertimesisalmostchemicallypure,andthephotographerwouldfindthatitisnearlyasgoodasdistilledwaterforthenitrateofsilverbath。
AthirdvisittoKebrabasawasmadeforthepurposeofascertainingwhetheritmightbenavigablewhentheZambesiwasinflood,thechiefpointofinterestbeingofcourseMorumbwa;itwasfoundthattherapidsobservedinourfirsttriphaddisappeared,andthatwhiletheyweresmoothedover,inafewplacesthecurrenthadincreasedinstrength。Astheriverfellrapidlywhilewewereonthejourney,thecataractofMorumbwadidnotdiffermateriallyfromwhatitwaswhendiscovered。Somefishermenassuredusthatitwasnotvisiblewhentheriverwasatitsfullest,andthatthecurrentwasthennotverystrong。Onthisoccasionwetravelledontherightbank,andfoundit,withtheadditionalinconvenienceofrain,asroughandfatiguingasthelefthadbeen。Ourprogresswasimpededbythetallwetgrassanddrippingboughs,andconsequentfever。Duringtheearlierpartofthejourneywecameuponafewdesertedhamletsonly;
butatlastinapleasantvalleywemetsomeofthepeopleofthecountry,whoweremiserablypoorandhungry。Thewomenweregatheringwildfruitsinthewoods。Ayoungmanhavingconsentedfortwoyardsofcottonclothtoshowusashortpathtothecataractledusupasteephilltoavillageperchedontheedgeofoneofitsprecipices;athunderstormcomingonatthetime,theheadmaninvitedustotakeshelterinahutuntilithadpassed。Ourguidehavinginformedhimofwhatheknewandconceivedtobeourobject,wasfavouredinreturnwithalongreplyinwell-soundingblankverse;attheendofeverylinetheguide,wholistenedwithdeepattention,respondedwithagrunt,whichsoonbecamesoludicrousthatourmenburstintoaloudlaugh。Neitherthepoetnortheresponsiveguidetooktheslightestnoticeoftheirrudeness,butkeptonasenergeticallyasevertotheend。Thespeech,ormoreprobablyourbadmanners,madesomeimpressiononourguide,forhedeclined,althoughoffereddoublepay,togoanyfurther。
AgreatdealoffevercomesinwithMarchandApril;inMarch,ifconsiderableintervalstakeplacebetweentherainydays,andinAprilalways,forthenlargesurfacesofmudanddecayingvegetationareexposedtothehotsun。Ingeneralanattackdoesnotcontinuelong,butitpullsonedownquickly;thoughwhenthefeverischeckedthestrengthisasquicklyrestored。Ithadlongbeenobservedthatthosewhowerestationedforanylengthoftimeinonespot,andlivedsedentarylives,sufferedmorefromfeverthanotherswhomovedaboutandhadbothmindandbodyoccupied;butwecouldnotallgointhesmallvesselwhenshemadehertrips,duringwhichthechangeofplaceandsceneryprovedsoconducivetohealth;andsomeofuswereobligedtoremaininchargeoftheexpedition\'sproperty,makingoccasionalbranchtripstoexamineobjectsofinterestinthevicinity。Whatevermaybethecauseofthefever,weobservedthatallwereoftenaffectedatthesametime,asiffrommalaria。Thiswasparticularlythecaseduringanorthwind:itwasatfirstcommonlybelievedthatadailydoseofquininewouldpreventtheattack。Foranumberofmonthsallourmen,excepttwo,tookquinineregularlyeverymorning。Thefeversometimesattackedthebelieversinquinine,whiletheunbelieversinitsprophylacticpowersescaped。
Whetherwetookitdaily,oromitteditaltogetherformonths,madenodifference;thefeverwasimpartial,andseizedusonthedaysofquinineasregularlyandasseverelyaswhenitremainedundisturbedinthemedicinechest,andwefinallyabandonedtheuseofitasaprophylacticaltogether。Thebestpreventiveagainstfeverisplentyofinterestingworktodo,andabundanceofwholesomefoodtoeat。
Toamanwellhousedandclothed,whoenjoystheseadvantages,thefeveratTettewillnotproveamoreformidableenemythanacommoncold;butletoneofthesebewanting——lethimbeindolent,orguiltyofexcessesineatingordrinking,orhavepoor,scantyfare,——andthefeverwillprobablybecomeamoreseriousmatter。ItisofamildertypeatTettethanatQuillimaneoronthelowsea-coast;and,asinthispartofAfricaoneisasliabletofeverastocoldsinEngland,itwouldbeadvisableforstrangersalwaystohastenfromthecoasttothehighlands,inorderthatwhentheseizuredoestakeplace,itmaybeofthemildesttype。Althoughquininewasnotfoundtobeapreventive,exceptpossiblyinthewayofactingasatonic,andrenderingthesystemmoreabletoresisttheinfluenceofmalaria,itwasfoundinvaluableinthecureofthecomplaint,assoonaspainsintheback,sorebones,headache,yawning,quickandsometimesintermittentpulse,noticeablepulsationsofthejugulars,withsuffusedeyes,hotskin,andfoultongue,began。{1}
VerycuriousaretheeffectsofAfricanfeveroncertainminds。
Cheerfulnessvanishes,andthewholementalhorizonisovercastwithblackcloudsofgloomandsadness。Theliveliestjokecannotprovokeeventhesemblanceofasmile。Thecountenanceisgrave,theeyessuffused,andthefewutterancesaremadeinthepipingvoiceofawailinginfant。Anirritabletemperisoftenthefirstsymptomofapproachingfever。Atsuchtimesamanfeelsverymuchlikeafool,ifhedoesnotactlikeone。Nothingisright,nothingpleasesthefever-strickenvictim。Heispeevish,pronetofindfaultandtocontradict,andthinkhimselfinsulted,andisexactlywhatanIrishnavalsurgeonbeforeacourt-martialdefinedadrunkenmantobe:\"amanunfitforsociety。”
Findingthatitwasimpossibletotakeoursteamerofonlyten-horsepowerthroughKebrabasa,andconvincedthat,inordertoforceapassagewhentheriverwasinflood,muchgreaterpowerwasrequired,dueinformationwasforwardedtoHerMajesty\'sGovernment,andapplicationmadeforamoresuitablevessel。OurattentionwasinthemeantimeturnedtotheexplorationoftheriverShire,anortherntributaryoftheZambesi,whichjoinsitaboutahundredmilesfromthesea。WecouldlearnnothingsatisfactoryfromthePortugueseregardingthisaffluent;noone,theysaid,hadeverbeenupit,norcouldtheytellwhenceitcame。YearsagoaPortugueseexpeditionissaid,however,tohaveattemptedtheascent,buttohaveabandoneditonaccountoftheimpenetrableduckweed(Pistiastratiotes。)WecouldnotlearnfromanyrecordthattheShirehadeverbeenascendedbyEuropeans。Asfar,therefore,aswewereconcerned,theexplorationwasabsolutelynew。AllthePortuguesebelievedtheManganjatobebravebutbloodthirstysavages;andonourreturnwefoundthatsoonafterourdepartureareportwaswidelyspreadthatourtemerityhadbeenfollowedbyfatalresults,Dr。
Livingstonehavingbeenshot,andDr。Kirkmortallywoundedbypoisonedarrows。
OurfirsttriptotheShirewasinJanuary,1859。Aconsiderablequantityofweedfloateddowntheriverforthefirsttwenty-fivemiles,butnotsufficienttointerruptnavigationwithcanoesorwithanyothercraft。Nearlythewholeofthisaquaticplantproceedsfromamarshonthewest,andcomesintotheriveralittlebeyondaloftyhillcalledMountMorambala。Abovethatthereishardlyany。
Asweapproachedthevillages,thenativescollectedinlargenumbers,armedwithbowsandpoisonedarrows;andsome,dodgingbehindtrees,wereobservedtakingaimasifonthepointofshooting。Allthewomenhadbeensentoutoftheway,andthemenwereevidentlypreparedtoresistaggression。AtthevillageofachiefnamedTingane,atleastfivehundrednativescollectedandorderedustostop。Dr。Livingstonewentashore;andonhisexplainingthatwewereEnglishandhadcomeneithertotakeslavesnortofight,butonlytoopenapathbywhichourcountrymenmightfollowtopurchasecotton,orwhateverelsetheymighthavetosell,exceptslaves,Tinganebecameatoncequitefriendly。Thepresenceofthesteamer,whichshowedthattheyhadanentirelynewpeopletodealwith,probablycontributedtothisresult;forTinganewasnotoriousforbeingthebarriertoallintercoursebetweenthePortugueseblacktradersandthenativesfurtherinland;nonewereallowedtopasshimeitherway。Hewasanelderly,well-mademan,grey-headed,andoversixfeethigh。Thoughsomewhatexcitedbyourpresence,hereadilycompliedwiththerequesttocallhispeopletogether,inorderthatallmightknowwhatourobjectswere。
IncommencingintercoursewithanypeoplewealmostalwaysreferredtotheEnglishdetestationofslavery。MostofthemalreadypossesssomeinformationrespectingtheeffortsmadebytheEnglishatseatosuppresstheslave-trade;andourworkbeingtoinducethemtoraiseandsellcotton,insteadofcapturingandsellingtheirfellow-men,ourerrandappearsquitenatural;andastheyallhaveclearideasoftheirownself-interest,andarekeentraders,thereasonablenessoftheproposalisatonceadmitted;andasabeliefinaSupremeBeing,theMakerandRulerofallthings,andinthecontinuedexistenceofdepartedspirits,isuniversal,itbecomesquiteappropriatetoexplainthatwepossessaBookcontainingaRevelationofthewillofHimtowhomintheirnaturalstatetheyrecognisenorelationship。
ThefactthatHisSonappearedamongmen,andleftHiswordsinHisBook,alwaysawakensattention;butthegreatdifficultyistomakethemfeelthattheyhaveanyrelationshiptoHim,andthatHefeelsanyinterestinthem。Thenumbnessofmoralperceptionexhibited,isoftendiscouraging;butthemodeofcommunication,eitherbyinterpreters,orbytheimperfectknowledgeofthelanguage,whichnotevenmissionariesoftalentcanovercomesavebythelabourofmanyyears,may,inpart,accountforthephenomenon。However,theideaoftheFatherofallbeingdispleasedwithHischildren,forsellingorkillingeachother,atoncegainstheirreadyassent:itharmonizessoexactlywiththeirownideasofrightandwrong。But,asinourowncaseathome,nothinglessthantheinstructionandexampleofmanyyearswillsecuretheirmoralelevation。
ThedialectspokenherecloselyresemblesthatusedatSennaandTette。Weunderstooditatfirstonlyenoughtoknowwhetherourinterpreterwassayingwhatwebadehim,orwasindulginginhisownversion。Afterstatingprettynearlywhathewastold,hehadaninveteratetendencytowindupwith\"TheBooksaysyouaretogrowcotton,andtheEnglisharetocomeandbuyit,\"orwithsomejokeofhisown,whichmighthavebeenludicrous,haditnotbeenseriouslydistressing。
InthefirstascentoftheShireourattentionwaschieflydirectedtotheriveritself。Thedelightofthreadingoutthemeanderingsofupwardsof200milesofahithertounexploredrivermustbefelttobeappreciated。Allthelowerpartoftheriverwasfoundtobeatleasttwofathomsindepth。Itbecameshallowerhigherup,wheremanydepartingandre-enteringbranchesdiminishedthevolumeofwater,buttheabsenceofsandbanksmadeiteasyofnavigation。Wehadtoexercisethegreatestcarelestanythingwedidshouldbemisconstruedbythecrowdswhowatchedus。Afterhavingmade,inastraightline,onehundredmiles,althoughthewindingsoftheriverhadfullydoubledthedistance,wefoundfurtherprogresswiththesteamerarrested,in15degrees55minutessouth,bymagnificentcataracts,whichwecalled,\"TheMurchison,\"afteronewhosenamehasalreadyaworld-widefame,andwhosegenerouskindnesswecanneverrepay。ThenativenameofthatfiguredinthewoodcutisMamvira。
Itisthatatwhichtheprogressofthesteamerwasfirststopped。
Theangleofdescentismuchsmallerthanthatofthefivecataractsaboveit;indeed,sosmallascomparedwiththem,thataftertheywerediscoveredthiswasnotincludedinthenumber。
Afewdayswerespenthereinthehopethattheremightbeanopportunityoftakingobservationsforlongitude,butitrainedmostofthetime,ortheskywasovercast。Itwasdeemedimprudenttoriskalandjourneywhilstthenativesweresoverysuspiciousastohaveastrongguardonthebanksoftherivernightandday;theweatheralsowasunfavourable。Aftersendingpresentsandmessagestotwoofthechiefs,wereturnedtoTette。Ingoingdownstreamourprogresswasrapid,aswewereaidedbythecurrent。Thehippopotaminevermadeamistake,butgotoutofourway。Thecrocodiles,notsowise,sometimesrushedwithgreatvelocityatus,thinkingthatweweresomehugeanimalswimming。Theykeptaboutafootfromthesurface,butmadethreewell-definedripplesfromthefeetandbody,whichmarkedtheirrapidprogress;raisingtheheadoutofthewaterwhenonlyafewyardsfromtheexpectedfeast,downtheywenttothebottomlikeastone,withouttouchingtheboat。
InthemiddleofMarchofthesameyear(1859),westartedagainforasecondtripontheShire。Thenativeswerenowfriendly,andreadilysoldusrice,fowls,andcorn。Weenteredintoamicablerelationswiththechief,Chibisa,whosevillagewasabouttenmilesbelowthecataract。Hehadsenttwomenonourfirstvisittoinviteustodrinkbeer;butthesteamerwassuchaterribleapparitiontothem,that,aftershoutingtheinvitation,theyjumpedashore,andlefttheircanoetodriftdownthestream。Chibisawasaremarkablyshrewdman,theveryimage,savehisdarkhue,ofoneofourmostcelebratedLondonactors,{2}andthemostintelligentchief,byfar,inthisquarter。Agreatdealoffightinghadfallentohislot,hesaid;butitwasalwaysotherswhobegan;hewasinvariablyintheright,andtheyaloneweretoblame。Hewasmoreoverafirmbelieverinthedivinerightofkings。Hewasanordinaryman,hesaid,whenhisfatherdied,andlefthimthechieftainship;butdirectlyhesucceededtothehighoffice,hewasconsciousofpowerpassingintohishead,anddownhisback;hefeltitenter,andknewthathewasachief,clothedwithauthority,andpossessedofwisdom;andpeoplethenbegantofearandreverencehim。Hementionedthis,asonewouldafactofnaturalhistory,anydoubtbeingquiteoutofthequestion。Hispeople,too,believedinhim,fortheybathedintheriverwithouttheslightestfearofcrocodiles,thechiefhavingplacedapowerfulmedicinethere,whichprotectedthemfromthebiteoftheseterriblereptiles。
LeavingthevesseloppositeChibisa\'svillage,Drs。LivingstoneandKirkandanumberoftheMakololostartedonfootforLakeShirwa。
Theytravelledinanortherlydirectionoveramountainouscountry。
Thepeoplewerefarfrombeingwell-disposedtothem,andsomeoftheirguidestriedtomisleadthem,andcouldnotbetrusted。
Masakasa,aMakololoheadman,overheardsomeremarkswhichsatisfiedhimthattheguidewasleadingthemintotrouble。Hewasquiettilltheyreachedalonelyspot,whenhecameuptoDr。Livingstone,andsaid,\"Thatfellowisbad,heistakingusintomischief;myspearissharp,andthereisnoonehere;shallIcasthimintothelonggrass?\"HadtheDoctorgiventheslightesttokenofassent,orevenkeptsilence,nevermorewouldanyonehavebeenledbythatguide,forinatwinklinghewouldhavebeenwhere\"thewickedceasefromtroubling。”Itwasafterwardsfoundthatinthiscasetherewasnotreacheryatall,butawantofknowledgeontheirpartofthelanguageandofthecountry。Theyaskedtobeledto\"NyanjaMukulu,\"orGreatLake,meaning,bythis,LakeShirwa;andtheguidetookthemroundaterriblyroughpieceofmountainouscountry,graduallyedgingawaytowardsalongmarsh,whichfromthenumbersofthoseanimalswehadseentherewehadcalledtheElephantMarsh,butwhichwasreallytheplaceknowntohimbythename\"NyanjaMukulu,\"
orGreatLake。NyanjaorNyanzameans,generally,amarsh,lake,river,orevenamererivulet。
Thepartypushedonatlastwithoutguides,oronlywithcrazyones;
for,oddlyenough,theywereoftenundergreatobligationstothemadmenofthedifferentvillages:oneofthesehonouredthem,astheysleptintheopenair,bydancingandsingingattheirfeetthewholenight。Thesepoorfellowssympathizedwiththeexplorers,probablyinthebeliefthattheybelongedtotheirownclass;and,uninfluencedbythegeneralopinionoftheircountrymen,theyreallypitied,andtookkindlytothestrangers,andoftenguidedthemfaithfullyfromplacetoplace,whennosanemancouldbehiredforloveormoney。
ThebearingoftheManganjaatthistimewasveryindependent;astrikingcontrasttothecringingattitudetheyafterwardsassumed,whenthecruelscourgeofslave-huntingpassedovertheircountry。
Signalsweregivenfromthedifferentvillagesbymeansofdrums,andnotesofdefianceandintimidationweresoundedinthetravellers\'
earsbyday;andoccasionallytheywerekeptawakethewholenight,inexpectationofaninstantattack。Drs。LivingstoneandKirkweredesirousthatnothingshouldoccurtomakethenativesregardthemasenemies;Masakasa,ontheotherhand,wasanxioustoshowwhathecoulddointhewayoffightingthem。
Theperseveranceofthepartywasfinallycrownedwithsuccess;foronthe18thofApriltheydiscoveredLakeShirwa,aconsiderablebodyofbitterwater,containingleeches,fish,crocodiles,andhippopotami。Fromhavingprobablynooutlet,thewaterisslightlybrackish,anditappearstobedeep,withislandslikehillsrisingoutofit。TheirpointofviewwasatthebaseofMountPirimitiorMopeu-peu,onitsS。S。W。side。Thencetheprospectnorthwardsendedinaseahorizonwithtwosmallislandsinthedistance——alargerone,resemblingahill-topandcoveredwithtrees,rosemoreintheforeground。Rangesofhillsappearedontheeast;andontheweststoodMountChikala,whichseemstobeconnectedwiththegreatmountain-masscalledZomba。
Theshore,nearwhichtheyspenttwonights,wascoveredwithreedsandpapyrus。Wishingtoobtainthelatitudebythenaturalhorizon,theywadedintothewatersomedistancetowardswhatwasreportedtobeasand-bank,butweresoassaultedbyleeches,theywerefaintoretreat;andawomantoldthemthatinenticingthemintothewaterthemenonlywantedtokillthem。Theinformationgatheredwasthatthislakewasnothinginsizecomparedtoanotherinthenorth,fromwhichitisseparatedbyonlyatongueofland。ThenorthernendofShirwahasnotbeenseen,thoughithasbeenpassed;thelengthofthelakemayprobablybe60or80miles,andabout20broad。Theheightabovetheseais1800feet,andthetasteofthewaterislikeaweaksolutionofEpsomsalts。Thecountryaroundisverybeautiful,andclothedwithrichvegetation;andthewaves,atthetimetheyweretherebreakingandfoamingoverarockonthesouth-