第5章

类别:其他 作者:David Livingstone字数:10954更新时间:18/12/14 10:02:35
easternside,addedtothebeautyofthepicture。Exceedinglyloftymountains,perhaps8000feetabovethesea-level,standneartheeasternshore。Whentheirloftysteep-sidedsummitsappear,someabove,somebelowtheclouds,thesceneisgrand。ThisrangeiscalledMilanje;ontheweststandsMountZomba,7000feetinheight,andsometwentymileslong。 Theirobjectbeingrathertogaintheconfidenceofthepeoplebydegreesthantoexplore,theyconsideredthattheyhadadvancedfarenoughintothecountryforonetrip;andbelievingthattheycouldsecuretheirendbyarepetitionoftheirvisit,astheyhaddoneontheShire,theydecidedtoreturntothevesselatDakanamoioisland; but,insteadofreturningbythewaytheycame,theypasseddownsouthwardsclosebyMountChiradzuru,amongtherelativesofChibisa,andthencebythepassZedi,downtotheShire。TheKroomenhad,whilewewereaway,cutagoodsupplyofwoodforsteaming,andwesoonproceededdowntheriver。 ThesteamerreachedTetteonthe23rdofJune,and,afterundergoingrepairs,proceededtotheKongonetoreceiveprovisionsfromoneofH。M。cruisers。Wehadbeenveryabundantlysuppliedwithfirst-ratestores,butwereunfortunateenoughtoloseaconsiderableportionofthem,andhadnowtobeartheprivationasbestwecould。Onthewaydown,wepurchasedafewgiganticcabbagesandpumpkinsatanativevillagebelowMazaro。Ourdinnershadusuallyconsistedofbutasinglecourse;butweweresurprisedthenextdaybyourblackcookfromSierraLeonebearinginasecondcourse。\"Whathaveyougotthere?\"wasaskedinwonder。\"Atart,sir。”\"Atart!ofwhatisitmade?\"\"Ofcabbage,sir。”Aswehadnosugar,andcouldnot\"makebelieve,\"asinthedaysofboyhood,wedidnotenjoythefeastthatTom\'sgeniushadprepared。HerMajesty\'sbrig\"Persian,\"LieutenantSaumarezcommanding,calledonherwaytotheCape;and,thoughsomewhatshortofprovisionsherself,generouslygaveusallshecouldspare。WenowpartedwithourKroomen,as,fromtheirinabilitytomarch,wecouldnotusetheminourlandjourneys。A crewwaspickedoutfromtheMakololo,who,besidesbeinggoodtravellers,couldcutwood,worktheship,andrequiredonlynativefood。 WhileattheKongoneitwasfoundnecessarytobeachthesteamerforrepairs。Shewasbuiltofanewlyinventedsortofsteelplates,onlyasixteenthofaninchinthickness,patented,butunfortunatelynevertriedbefore。Tobuildanexploringshipofuntriedmaterialwasamistake。Somechemicalactiononthispreparationofsteelcausedaminutehole;fromthispoint,brancheslikelichens,orthelittleraggedstarswesometimesseeinthawingice,radiatedinalldirections。Smallholeswentthroughwhereverabendoccurredinthesebranches。Thebottomverysoonbecamelikeasieve,completelyfullofminuteholes,whichleakedperpetually。Theengineerstoppedthelargerones,butthevesselwasnosoonerafloat,thannewonesbrokeout。Thefirstnewsofamorningwascommonlytheunpleasantannouncementofanotherleakintheforwardcompartment,orinthemiddle,whichwasworsestill。 FrequentshowersfellonourwayuptheZambesi,inthebeginningofAugust。Onthe8thwehadupwardsofthreeinchesofrain,whichlargequantity,morethanfallsinanysinglerainydayduringtheseasonatTette,weowedtobeingnearthesea。Sometimesthecabinwasnearlyflooded;for,inadditiontotheleakagefrombelow,rainpouredthroughtheroof,andanumbrellahadtobeusedwheneverwewishedtowrite:themodeofcouplingthecompartments,too,wasanewone,andtheactionofthehindercompartmentonthemiddleonepumpedupthewateroftheriver,andsentitinstreamsoverthefloorandlockers,wherelaythecushionswhichdiddoubledutyaschairsandbeds。Intryingtoformanopinionoftheclimate,itmustberecollectedthatmuchofthefever,fromwhichwesuffered,wascausedbysleepingonthesewetcushions。Manyofthebotanicalspecimens,laboriouslycollectedandcarefullypreparedbyDr。Kirk,weredestroyed,ordoubleworkimposed,bytheiraccidentallyfallingintowetplacesinthecabin。 AboutthemiddleofAugust,aftercuttingwoodatShamoara,weagainsteameduptheShire,withtheintentionofbecomingbetteracquaintedwiththepeople,andmakinganotherandlongerjourneyonfoottothenorthofLakeShirwa,insearchofLakeNyassa,ofwhichwehadalreadyreceivedsomeinformation,underthenameNyinyesi(thestars)。TheShireismuchnarrowerthantheZambesi,butdeeper,andmoreeasilynavigated。Itdrainsalowandexceedinglyfertilevalleyoffromfifteentotwentymilesinbreadth。Rangesofwoodedhillsboundthisvalleyonbothsides。Forthefirsttwentymilesthehillsontheleftbankareclosetotheriver;thencomesMorambala,adetachedmountain500yardsfromtheriver\'sbrink,whichrises,withsteepsidesonthewest,to4000feetinheight,andisaboutsevenmilesinlength。Itiswoodeduptotheverytop,andverybeautiful。Thesouthernend,seenfromadistance,hasafinegradualslope,andlooksasifitmightbeofeasyascent;butthesidewhichfacestheShireissteepandrocky,especiallyintheupperhalf。Asmallvillagepeepsoutabouthalfwayupthemountain; ithasapureandbracingatmosphere;andisperchedabovemosquitorange。Thepeopleonthesummithaveaverydifferentclimateandvegetationfromthoseoftheplains;buttheyhavetospendagreatportionoftheirexistenceamidstwhitefleecyclouds,which,intherainyseason,restdailyonthetopoftheirfavouritemountain。Wewerekindlytreatedbythesemountaineersonourfirstascent;beforeoursecondtheywerenearlyallsweptawaybyMariano。Dr。Kirkfoundupwardsofthirtyspeciesoffernsonthisandothermountains,andevengood-sizedtree-ferns;thoughscarcelyasinglekindistobemetwithontheplains。Lemonandorangetreesgrewwild,andpineappleshadbeenplantedbythepeople。Manylargehornbills,hawks,monkeys,antelopes,andrhinocerosesfoundahomeandfoodamongthegreattreesrounditsbase。Ahotfountainboilsupontheplainnearthenorthend。Itbubblesoutoftheearth,clearascrystal,attwopoints,oreyes,afewyardsapartfromeachother,andsendsoffafineflowingstreamofhotwater。Thetemperaturewasfoundtobe174degreesFahr。,anditboiledanegginabouttheusualtime。OurguidethrewinasmallbranchtoshowushowspeedilytheMadse-awira(boilingwater)couldkilltheleaves。 Unluckylizardsandinsectsdidnotseemtounderstandthenatureofahot-spring,asmanyoftheirremainswerelyingatthebottom。A largebeetlehadalightedonthewater,andbeenkilledbeforeithadtimetofolditswings。Anincrustation,smellingofsulphur,hasbeendepositedbythewateronthestones。Aboutahundredfeetfromtheeyeofthefountainthemudisashotascanbebornebythebody。Intakingabaththere,itmakestheskinperfectlyclean,andnoneofthemudadheres:itisstrangethatthePortuguesedonotresorttoitforthenumerouscutaneousdiseaseswithwhichtheyaresooftenafflicted。 AfewclumpsofthepalmandacaciatreesappearwestofMorambala,ontherichplainformingthetongueoflandbetweentheriversShireandZambesi。Thisisagoodplaceforallsortsofgame。TheZambesicanoe-menwereafraidtosleeponitfromtheideaoflionsbeingthere;theypreferredtopassthenightonanisland。Someblackmen,whoaccompaniedusasvolunteerworkmenfromShupanga,calledoutoneeveningthatalionstoodonthebank。Itwasverydark,andwecouldonlyseetwosparklinglights,saidtobethelion\'seyeslookingatus;forhere,aselsewhere,theyhaveatheorythatthelion\'seyesalwaysflashfireatnight。Notbeingfireflies——astheydidnotmovewhenashotwasfiredintheirdirection——theywereprobablyglowworms。 BeyondMorambalatheShirecomeswindingthroughanextensivemarsh。 Formanymilestothenorthabroadseaoffreshgreengrassextends,andissolevel,thatitmightbeusedfortakingthemeridianaltitudeofthesun。TenorfifteenmilesnorthofMorambala,standsthedome-shapedmountainMakanga,orChi-kanda;severalotherswithgranitic-lookingpeaksstretchawaytothenorth,andformtheeasternboundaryofthevalley;anotherrange,butofmetamorphicrocks,commencingoppositeSenna,boundsthevalleyonthewest。 Afterstreamingthroughaportionofthismarsh,wecametoabroadbeltofpalmandothertrees,crossingthefineplainontherightbank。Marksoflargegamewereabundant。Elephantshadbeenfeedingonthepalmnuts,whichhaveapleasantfruitytaste,andareusedasfoodbyman。Twopythonswereobservedcoiledtogetheramongthebranchesofalargetree,andwerebothshot。Thelargerofthetwo,afemale,wastenfeetlong。Theyareharmless,andsaidtobegoodeating。TheMakololohavingsetfiretothegrasswheretheywerecuttingwood,asolitarybuffalorushedoutoftheconflagration,andmadeafuriouschargeatanactiveyoungfellownamedMantlanyane。 Neverdidhisfleetlimbsservehimbetterthanduringthefewsecondsofhisfearfulflightbeforethemaddenedanimal。Whenhereachedthebank,andsprangintotheriver,theinfuriatedbeastwasscarcelysixfeetbehindhim。Towardsevening,aftertheday\'slabourinwood-cuttingwasover,someofthemenwentfishing。TheyfollowedthecommonAfricancustomofagitatingthewater,bygivingitafewsharpstrokeswiththetopofthefishing-rod,immediatelyafterthrowingintheline,toattracttheattentionofthefishtothebait。Havingcaughtnothing,thereasonassignedwasthesameaswouldhavebeengiveninEnglandunderlikecircumstances,namely,that\"thewindmadethefishcold,andtheywouldnotbite。”Manygardensofmaize,pumpkins,andtobacco,fringedthemarshybanksaswewenton。Theybelongtonativesofthehills,whocomedowninthedryseason,andraiseacroponpartsatothertimesflooded。 Whilethecropsaregrowing,largequantitiesoffisharecaught,chieflyClariascapensis,andMugilAfricanus;theyaredriedforsaleorfutureconsumption。 Asweascended,wepassedadeepstreamaboutthirtyyardswide,flowinginfromabodyofopenwaterseveralmilesbroad。Numbersofmenwerebusyatdifferentpartsofit,fillingtheircanoeswiththelotusroot,calledNyika,which,whenboiledorroasted,resemblesourchestnuts,andisextensivelyusedinAfricaasfood。Outofthislagoon,andbythisstream,thechiefpartoftheduckweedoftheShireflows。ThelagoonitselfiscalledNyanjaeaMotope(LakeofMud)。ItisalsonamedNyanjaPangono(LittleLake),whiletheelephantmarshgoesbythenameofNyanjaMukulu(GreatLake)。Itisevidentfromtheshorelinestilltobeobservedontheadjacenthills,thatinancienttimesthesewerereallylakes,andthetraditionalnamesthuspreservedareonlyanotherevidenceofthegeneraldesiccationwhichAfricahasundergone。 CHAPTERIII。 TheSteamerindifficulties——Elephanthunting——ArrivalatChibisa\'s—— SearchforLakeNyassa——TheManganjacountry——Weaversandsmelters—— LakePamalombe。 Lateintheafternoonofthefirstday\'ssteaming,afterweleftthewooding-place,wecalledatthevillageofChikanda-Kadze,afemalechief,topurchasericeforourmen;butwewerenowintheblissfulregionwheretimeisabsolutelyofnoaccount,andwheremenmaysitdownandrestthemselveswhentired;sotheyrequestedustowaittillnextday,andtheywouldthensellussomefood。Asourfortyblackmen,however,hadnothingtocookforsupper,wewereobligedtosteamontoreachavillageafewmilesabove。Whenwemeetthosewhocarenotwhetherwepurchaseorletitalone,orwhothinkmenoughtonlytobeinahurrywhenfleeingfromanenemy,ourideasabouttimebeingmoney,andthepowerofthepurse,receivesashock。 Thestateofeagercompetition,whichinEnglandwearsoutbothmindandbody,andmakeslifebitter,isherehappilyunknown。Thecultivatedspotsaremeredotscomparedtothebroadfieldsofrichsoilwhichisnevereithergrazedortilled。Pitythattheplentyinstoreforall,fromourFather\'sbountifulhands,isnotenjoyedbymore。 Thewretchedlittlesteamercouldnotcarryallthehandsweneeded; so,tolightenher,weputsomeintotheboatsandtowedthemastern。 Inthedark,oneoftheboatswascapsized;butallinit,exceptonepoorfellowwhocouldnotswim,werepickedup。Hislossthrewagloomoverusall,andaddedtothechagrinweoftenfeltathavingbeensoill-servedinoursorrycraft。 NextdaywearrivedatthevillageofMboma(16degrees56minutes30 secondsS。),wherethepeopleraisedlargequantitiesofrice,andwereeagertraders;thericewassoldatwonderfullylowrates,andwecouldnotpurchaseatitheofthefoodbroughtforsale。 Anativeminstrelserenadedusintheevening,playingseveralquainttunesonaspeciesofonestringedfiddle,accompaniedbywild,butnotunmusicalsongs。HetoldtheMakololothatheintendedtoplayallnighttoinduceustogivehimapresent。Thenightsbeingcold,thethermometerfallingto47degrees,withoccasionalfogs,hewasaskedifhewasnotafraidofperishingfromcold;but,withthegenuinespiritofanItalianorgan-grinder,hereplied,\"Oh,no;I shallspendthenightwithmywhitecomradesinthebigcanoe;Ihaveoftenheardofthewhitemen,buthaveneverseenthemtillnow,andImustsingandplaywelltothem。”Asmallpieceofcloth,however,boughthimoff,andhemovedawayingoodhumour。Thewateroftheriverwas70degreesatsunrise,whichwas23degreeswarmerthantheairatthesametime,andthiscausedfogs,whichroselikesteamofftheriver。Whenthisisthecasecoldbathinginthemorningsatthistimeoftheyearisimproper,for,insteadofaglowoncomingout,oneisapttogetachill;theairbeingsomuchcolderthanthewater。 Arangeofhills,commencingoppositeSenna,comestowithintwoorthreemilesofMbomavillage,andthenrunsinanorth-westerlydirection;theprincipalhillisnamedMalawe;anumberofvillagesstandonitstree-coveredsides,andcoalisfoundcroppingoutintherocks。Thecountryimprovesasweascend,therichvalleybecominglessswampy,andadornedwithanumberoftrees。 Bothbanksaredottedwithhippopotamustraps,overeverytrackwhichtheseanimalshavemadeingoingupoutofthewatertograze。Thehippopotamusfeedsongrassalone,and,wherethereisanydanger,onlyatnight。Itsenormouslipsactlikeamowing-machine,andformapathofshort-croppedgrassasitfeeds。Weneversawiteataquaticplantsorreeds。Thetusksseemweaponsofbothoffenceanddefence。Thehippopotamustrapconsistsofabeamfiveorsixfeetlong,armedwithaspear-headorhard-woodspike,coveredwithpoison,andsuspendedtoaforkedpolebyacord,which,comingdowntothepath,isheldbyacatch,tobesetfreewhenthebeasttreadsonit。Beingwarybrutes,theyarestillverynumerous。Onegotfrightenedbytheship,asshewassteamingclosetothebank。Initseagerhurrytoescapeitrushedonshore,andrandirectlyunderatrap,whendowncametheheavybeamonitsback,drivingthepoisonedspear-headafootdeepintoitsflesh。Initsagonyitplungedbackintotheriver,todieinafewhours,andafterwardsfurnishedafeastforthenatives。Thepoisononthespear-headdoesnotaffectthemeat,exceptthepartaroundthewound,andthatisthrownaway。Insomeplacesthedescendingbeamisweightedwithheavystones,butherethehardheavywoodissufficient。 \"Sheisleakingworsethaneverforward,sir,andthereisafootofwaterinthehold,\"wasourfirstsalutationonthemorningofthe20th。Butwehavebecomeaccustomedtothesethingsnow;thecabin- floorisalwayswet,andoneisobligedtomopupthewatermanytimesaday,givingsomecountenancetothenativeideathatEnglishmenliveinoronthewater,andhavenohousesbutships。 Thecabinisnowafavouritebreeding-placeformosquitoes,andwehavetosupportboththeship-bredandshore-bredbloodsuckers,ofwhichseveralspeciesshowustheirirritatingattentions。Alargebrownsort,calledbythePortuguesemansos(tame),fliesstraighttoitsvictim,andgoestoworkatonce,asthoughitwereaninvitedguest。Someofthesmallkindscarryuncommonlysharplancets,andverypotentpoison。\"Whatwouldtheseinsectseat,ifwedidnotpassthisway?\"becomesanaturalquestion。 Thejuicesofplants,anddecayingvegetablematterinthemud,probablyformthenaturalfoodofmosquitoes,andbloodisnotnecessaryfortheirexistence。Theyappearsocommonlyatmalariousspots,thattheirpresencemaybetakenasahinttomantobeofftomorehealthylocalities。Noneappearonthehighlands。Onthelowlandstheyswarminmyriads。Thefemalesalonearefurnishedwiththebitingapparatus,andtheirnumberappearstobeoutofallproportioninexcessofthemales。Atanchor,onastillevening,theywereexcessivelyannoying;andthesoonerwetookrefugeunderourmosquitocurtains,thebetter。Themiserableandsleeplessnightthatonlyonemosquitoinsidethecurtaincancause,issowellknown,andhasbeensooftendescribed,thatitisneedlesstodescribeithere。Onesoonlearns,fromexperience,thattobeatoutthecurtainsthoroughlybeforeenteringthem,sothatnotoneofthesepestscanpossiblybeharbouredwithin,istheonlysafeguardagainstsuchseveretrialstoone\'stranquillityandtemper。 AfewmilesaboveMbomawecameagaintothevillage(16degrees44 minutes30secondsS。)ofthechiefTingane,thebeatofwhosewar- drumscanspeedilymustersomehundredsofarmedmen。Thebowsandpoisonedarrowshereareofsuperiorworkmanshiptothosebelow。 Mariano\'sslave-huntingpartiesstoodingreataweofthesebarbedarrows,andlongkeptalooffromTingane\'svillages。Hispeoplewerefriendlyenoughwithusnow,andcoveredthebankswithavarietyofarticlesforsale。Themajesticmountain,Chipirone,towhichwehavegiventhenameofMountClarendon,nowloomsinsight,andfurthertotheN。W。thesouthernendofthegrandMilanjerangerisesintheformofanunfinishedsphinxlookingdownonLakeShirwa。TheRuo(16degrees31minutes0secondsS。)issaidtohaveitssourceintheMilanjemountains,andflowstotheS。W。,tojointheShiresomedistanceaboveTingane\'s。AshortwaybeyondtheRuoliestheElephantmarsh,orNyanjaMukulu,whichisfrequentedbyvastherdsoftheseanimals。Webelievethatwecountedeighthundredelephantsinsightatonce。Inthechoiceofsuchastronghold,theyhaveshowntheirusualsagacity,fornohuntercangetnearthemthroughtheswamps。Theynowkeepfarfromthesteamer;but,whenshefirstcameup,westeamedintothemidstofaherd,andsomewereshotfromtheship\'sdeck。Asinglelessonwassufficienttoteachthemthatthesteamerwasathingtobeavoided;andatthefirstglimpsetheyarenowofftwoorthreemilestothemidstofthemarsh,whichisfurrowedineverydirectionbywanderingbranchesoftheShire。A fineyoungelephantwasherecaughtalive,ashewasclimbingupthebanktofollowhisretreatingdam。Whenlaidholdof,hescreamedwithsomuchenergythat,toescapeavisitfromtheenragedmother,westeamedoff,anddraggedhimthroughthewaterbytheproboscis。 Asthemenwereholdinghistrunkoverthegunwale,Monga,abraveMakololoelephant-hunter,rushedaft,anddrewhisknifeacrossitinasortoffrenzypeculiartothechase。Thewoundwasskilfullysewnup,andtheyounganimalsoonbecamequitetame,but,unfortunatelythebreathingpreventedthecutfromhealing,andhediedinafewdaysfromlossofblood。Hadhelived,andhadwebeenabletobringhimhome,hewouldhavebeenthefirstAFRICANelephanteverseeninEngland。TheAfricanmaleelephantisfromtentoalittleoverelevenfeetinheight,anddiffersfromtheAsiaticspeciesmoreparticularlyintheconvexshapeofhisforehead,andtheenormoussizeofhisears。InAsiamanyofthemales,andallthefemales,arewithouttusks,butinAfricabothsexesareprovidedwiththeseweapons。Theenamelinthemolarteethisarrangeddifferentlyinthetwospecies。Byanadmirableprovision,newteethconstantlycomeupatthepartwhereinmanthewisdomteethappear,andthesepushtheothersalong,andoutatthefrontendofthejaws,thuskeepingthemolarssoundbyrenewal,tilltheanimalattainsaverygreatage。Thetusksofanimalsfromdryrockycountriesareverymunchmoredenseandheavierthanthosefromwetandmarshydistricts,butthelatterattainmuchthelargersize。 TheShiremarshessupportprodigiousnumbersofmanykindsofwater- fowl。Anhouratthemast-headunfoldsnovelviewsoflifeinanAfricanmarsh。Neartheedge,andonthebranchesofsomefavouritetree,restscoresofplotusesandcormorants,whichstretchtheirsnake-likenecks,andinmuteamazementturnoneeyeandthenanothertowardstheapproachingmonster。Byand-bythetimidonesbegintoflyoff,ortake\"headers\"intothestream;butafewofthebolder,ormorecomposed,remain,onlytakingtheprecautiontospreadtheirwingsreadyforinstantflight。Theprettyardetta(Herodiasbubulcus),ofalightyellowcolourwhenatrest,butseeminglyofapurewhitewhenflying,takeswing,andsweepsacrossthegreengrassinlargenumbers,oftenshowinguswherebuffaloesandelephantsare,byperchingontheirbacks。Flocksofducks,ofwhichthekindcalled\"Soriri\"(Dendrocygnapersonata)ismostabundant,beingnightfeeders,meditatequietlybythesmalllagoons,untilstartledbythenoiseofthesteammachinery。Pelicansglideoverthewater,catchingfish,whiletheScopus(Scopusumbretta)andlargeheronspeerintentlyintopools。Thelargeblackandwhitespur-wingedgoose(aconstantmarauderofnativegardens)springsup,andcirclesroundtofindoutwhatthedisturbancecanbe,andthensettlesdownagainwithasplash。HundredsofLinongolos(Anastomuslamelligerus) riseonthewingfromtheclumpsofreeds,orlowtrees(theEschinomena,fromwhichpithhatsaremade),onwhichtheybuildincolonies,andarespeedilyhighinmid-air。Charminglittleredandyellowweavers(Ploceidae)remindoneofbutterflies,astheyflyinandoutofthetallgrass,orhangtothemouthsoftheirpendentnests,chatteringbrisklytotheirmateswithin。Theseweaversseemtohave\"cocknests,\"builtwithonlyaroof,andaperchbeneath,withadoorwayoneachside。Thenativessaytheyaremadetoprotectthebirdfromtherain。Thoughherhusbandisveryattentive,wehaveseenthehenbirdtearinghermate\'snesttopieces,butwhywecannottell。Kitesandvulturesarebusyoverhead,beatingthegroundfortheirrepastofcarrion;andthesolemn-looking,stately-steppingMarabout,withatastefordeadfish,ormen,stalksslowlyalongthealmoststagnantchannels。 Groupsofmenandboysaresearchingdiligentlyinvariousplacesforlotusandotherroots。Somearestandingincanoes,ontheweed- coveredponds,spearingfish,whileothersarepuntingoverthesmallintersectingstreams,toexaminetheirsunkenfish-baskets。 Towardsevening,hundredsofprettylittlehawks(Erythropusvespertinus)areseenflyinginasoutherlydirection,andfeedingondragon-fliesandlocusts。Theycome,apparently,fromrestingonthepalm-treesduringtheheatoftheday。Flocksofscissor-bills(Rhyncops)arethenalsoonthewing,andinsearchoffood,ploughingthewaterwiththeirlowermandibles,whicharenearlyhalfaninchlongerthantheupperones。 Atthenorth-easternendofthemarsh,andaboutthreemilesfromtheriver,commencesagreatforestofpalm-trees(BorassusAethiopium)。 Itextendsmanymiles,andatonepointcomesclosetotheriver。 Thegreytrunksandgreentopsofthisimmensemassoftreesgiveapleasingtoneofcolourtotheview。Themountain-range,whichrisesclosebehindthepalms,isgenerallyofacheerfulgreen,andhasmanytrees,withpatchesofalightertintamongthem,asifspotsoflandhadoncebeencultivated。Thesharpangularrocksanddellsonitssideshavetheappearanceofahugecrystalbroken;andthisissooftenthecaseinAfrica,thatonecanguessprettynearlyatsightwhetherarangeisoftheoldcrystallinerocksornot。TheBorassus,thoughnotanoil-bearingpalm,isausefultree。Thefibrouspulproundthelargenutsisofasweetfruitytaste,andiseatenbymenandelephants。Thenativesburythenutsuntilthekernelsbegintosprout;whendugupandbroken,theinsideresemblescoarsepotatoes,andisprizedintimesofscarcityasnutritiousfood。Duringseveralmonthsoftheyear,palm-wine,orsura,isobtainedinlargequantities;whenfresh,itisapleasantdrink,somewhatlikechampagne,andnotatallintoxicating;though,afterstandingafewhours,itbecomeshighlyso。Sticks,afootlong,aredrivenintonotchesinthehardoutsideofthetree——theinsidebeingsoftorhollow——toserveasaladder;thetopofthefruit-shootiscutoff,andthesap,pouringoutatthefreshwound,iscaughtinanearthenpot,whichishungatthepoint。Athinsliceistakenofftheend,toopenthepores,andmakethejuicefloweverytimetheownerascendstoemptythepot。Temporaryhutsareerectedintheforest,andmenandboysremainbytheirrespectivetreesdayandnight;thenuts,fish,andwine,beingtheirsolefood。ThePortugueseusethepalm-wineasyeast,anditmakesbreadsolight,thatitmeltsinthemouthlikefroth。