Weencampedonthe20thofJuneataspotwhereDr。Livingstone,onhisjourneyfromtheWesttotheEastCoast,wasformerlymenacedbyachiefnamedMpende。Nooffencehadbeencommittedagainsthim,buthehadfirearms,and,withtheexpressobjectofshowinghispower,hethreatenedtoattackthestrangers。Mpende\'scounsellorshaving,however,foundoutthatDr。Livingstonebelongedtoatribeofwhomtheyhadheardthat\"theylovedtheblackmananddidnotmakeslaves,\"hisconductatoncechangedfromenmitytokindness,and,astheplacewasonewellselectedfordefence,itwasperhapsquiteaswellforMpendethathedecidedashedid。Threeofhiscounsellorsnowvisitedus,andwegavethemahandsomepresentfortheirchief,whocamehimselfnextmorningandmadeusapresentofagoat,abasketofboiledmaize,andanotherofvetches。Afewmilesabovethistheheadman,ChilondoofNyamasusa,apologizedfornotformerlylendinguscanoes。\"Hewasabsent,andhischildrenweretoblamefornottellinghimwhentheDoctorpassed;hedidnotrefusethecanoes。”Thesightofourmen,nowarmedwithmuskets,hadagreateffect。Withoutanybullying,firearmscommandrespect,andleadmentobereasonablewhomightotherwisefeeldisposedtobetroublesome。
Nothing,however,ourfracaswithMpendeexcepted,couldbemorepeacefulthanourpassagethroughthistractofcountryin1856。Wethenhadnothingtoexcitethecupidityofthepeople,andthemenmaintainedthemselves,eitherbysellingelephant\'smeat,orbyexhibitingfeatsofforeigndancing。Mostofthepeoplewereverygenerousandfriendly;buttheBanyai,nearertoTettethanthis,stoppedourmarchwithathreateningwar-dance。Oneofourparty,terrifiedatthis,ranaway,aswethought,insane,andcouldnot,afterapainfulsearchofthreedays,befound。TheBanyai,evidentlytouchedbyourdistress,allowedustoproceed。ThroughamanweleftonanislandalittlebelowMpende\'s,wesubsequentlylearnedthatpoorMonahenghadfledthither,andhadbeenmurderedbytheheadmanfornoreasonexceptthathewasdefenceless。Thisheadmanhadsincebecomeodioustohiscountrymen,andhadbeenputtodeathbythem。
Onthe23rdofJuneweenteredPangola\'sprincipalvillage,whichisupwardsofamilefromtheriver。TheruinsofamudwallshowedthatarudeattempthadbeenmadetoimitatethePortuguesestyleofbuilding。Weestablishedourselvesunderastatelywildfig-tree,roundwhosetrunkwitchcraftmedicinehadbeentied,toprotectfromthievesthehoneyofthewildbees,whichhadtheirhiveinoneofthelimbs。Thisisacommondevice。Thecharm,orthemedicine,ispurchasedofthedicedoctors,andconsistsofastripofpalm-leafsmearedwithsomething,andadornedwithafewbitsofgrass,wood,orroots。Itistiedroundthetree,andisbelievedtohavethepowerofinflictingdiseaseanddeathonthethiefwhoclimbsoverit。Superstitionisthusnotwithoutitsusesincertainstatesofsociety;itpreventsmanycrimesandmisdemeanours,whichwouldoccurbutforthesalutaryfearthatitproduces。
Pangolaarrived,tipsyandtalkative——\"Wearefriends,wearegreatfriends;Ihavebroughtyouabasketofgreenmaize——hereitis!\"Wethankedhim,andhandedhimtwofathomsofcottoncloth,fourtimesthemarket-valueofhispresent。No,hewouldnottakesosmallapresent;hewantedadouble-barrelledrifle——oneofDixon\'sbest。
\"Wearefriends,youknow;weareallfriendstogether。”Butalthoughwewerewillingtoadmitthat,wecouldnotgivehimourbestrifle,sohewentoffinhighdudgeon。Earlynextmorning,aswewerecommencingDivineservice,Pangolareturned,sober。WeexplainedtohimthatwewishedtoworshipGod,andinvitedhimtoremain;heseemedfrightened,andretired:butafterserviceheagainimportunedusfortherifle。Itwasofnousetellinghimthatwehadalongjourneybeforeus,andneededittokillgameforourselves——\"Hetoomustobtainmeatforhimselfandpeople,fortheysometimessufferedfromhunger。”Hethengotsulky,andhispeoplerefusedtosellfoodexceptatextravagantprices。Knowingthatwehadnothingtoeat,theyfeltsureofstarvingusintocompliance。
Buttwoofouryoungmen,havinggoneoffatsunrise,shotafinewater-buck,anddowncametheprovisionmarkettothelowerfigure;
theyevenbecameeagertosell,butourmenwereangrywiththemfortryingcompulsion,andwouldnotbuy。Blackgreedhadoutwitteditself,ashappensoftenwithwhitecupidity;andnotonlyheredidthetraitsofAfricansremindusofAnglo-Saxonselsewhere:thenotoriouslyreadyworld-widedispositiontotakeanunfairadvantageofaman\'snecessitiesshowsthatthesamemeanmotivesareprettywidelydiffusedamongallraces。Itmaynotbegrantedthatthesamebloodflowsinallveins,orthatallhavedescendedfromthesamestock;butthetravellerhasnodoubtthat,practically,thewhiterogueandblackaremenandbrothers。
PangolaisthechildorvassalofMpende。SandiaandMpendearetheonlyindependentchiefsfromKebrabasatoZumbo,andbelongtothetribeManganja。ThecountrynorthofthemountainshereinsightfromtheZambesiiscalledSenga,anditsinhabitantsAsenga,orBasenga,butallappeartobeofthesamefamilyastherestoftheManganjaandMaravi。FormerlyalltheManganjawereunitedunderthegovernmentoftheirgreatchief,Undi,whoseempireextendedfromLakeShirwatotheRiverLoangwa;butafterUndi\'sdeathitfelltopieces,andalargeportionofitontheZambesiwasabsorbedbytheirpowerfulsouthernneighbourstheBanyai。ThishasbeentheinevitablefateofeveryAfricanempirefromtimeimmemorial。A
chiefofmorethanordinaryabilityarisesand,subduingallhislesspowerfulneighbours,foundsakingdom,whichhegovernsmoreorlesswiselytillhedies。Hissuccessornothavingthetalentsoftheconquerorcannotretainthedominion,andsomeoftheablerunder-
chiefssetupforthemselves,and,inafewyears,theremembranceonlyoftheempireremains。This,whichmaybeconsideredasthenormalstateofAfricansociety,givesrisetofrequentanddesolatingwars,andthepeoplelonginvainforapowerabletomakealldwellinpeace。Inthislight,aEuropeancolonywouldbeconsideredbythenativesasaninestimableboontointertropicalAfrica。Thousandsofindustriousnativeswouldgladlysettleroundit,andengageinthatpeacefulpursuitofagricultureandtradeofwhichtheyaresofond,and,undistractedbywarsorrumoursofwars,mightlistentothepurifyingandennoblingtruthsofthegospelofJesusChrist。TheManganjaontheZambesi,liketheircountrymenontheShire,arefondofagriculture;and,inadditiontotheusualvarietiesoffood,cultivatetobaccoandcottoninquantitiesmorethanequaltotheirwants。Tothequestion,\"WouldtheyworkforEuropeans?\"anaffirmativeanswermaybegiven,
iftheEuropeansbelongtotheclasswhichcanpayareasonablepriceforlabour,andnottothatofadventurerswhowantemploymentforthemselves。AllwereparticularlywellclothedfromSandia\'stoPangola\'s;anditwasnoticedthatalltheclothwasofnativemanufacture,theproductoftheirownlooms。InSengaagreatdealofironisobtainedfromtheoreandmanufacturedverycleverly。
Asiscustomarywhenapartyofarmedstrangersvisitsthevillage,Pangolatooktheprecautionofsleepinginoneoftheoutlyinghamlets。Nooneeverknows,oratanyratewilltell,wherethechiefsleeps。Hecamenotnextmorning,sowewentourway;butinafewmomentswesawtherifle-lovingchiefapproachingwithsomearmedmen。Beforemeetingus,heleftthepathanddrewuphis\"following\"
underatree,expectingustohalt,andgivehimachanceofbotheringusagain;but,havingalreadyhadenoughofthat,weheldrighton:heseemeddumbfoundered,andcouldhardlybelievehisowneyes。Forafewsecondshewasspeechless,butatlastrecoveredsofarastobeabletosay,\"YouarepassingPangola。DoyounotseePangola?\"Mbiawasjustgoingbyatthetimewiththedonkey,and,proudofeveryopportunityofairinghissmallstockofEnglish,shoutedinreply,\"Allright!thengeton。”\"Click,click,click。”
Onthe26thJunewebreakfastedatZumbo,ontheleftbankoftheLoangwa,neartheruinsofsomeancientPortuguesehouses。TheLoangwawastoodeeptobeforded,andtherewerenocanoesonourside。Seeingtwosmallonesontheoppositeshore,nearafewrecentlyerectedhutsoftwohalf-castesfromTette,wehaltedfortheferry-mentocomeover。Fromtheirmovementsitwasevidentthattheywereinastateofrollickingdrunkenness。Havingawaterproofcloak,whichcouldbeinflatedintoatinyboat,wesentMantlanyaneacrossinit。Threehalf-intoxicatedslavesthenbroughtustheshakycanoes,whichwelashedtogetherandmannedwithourowncanoe-
men。Fivemenwereallthatwecouldcarryoveratatime;andafterfourtripshadbeenmadetheslavesbegantoclamourfordrink;notreceivingany,aswehadnonetogive,theygrewmoreinsolent,anddeclaredthatnotanothermanshouldcrossthatday。Sininyanewasremonstratingwiththem,whenaloadedmusketwaspresentedathimbyoneofthetrio。Inaninstantthegunwasoutoftherascal\'shands,arattlingshowerofblowsfellonhisback,andhetookaninvoluntaryheaderintotheriver。Hecrawledupthebankasadandsoberman,andallthreeatoncetumbledfromtheheightofsaucyswaggertoalowdepthofslavishabjectness。Themusketwasfoundtohaveanenormouscharge,andmighthaveblownourmantopieces,butforthepromptitudewithwhichhiscompanionsadministeredjusticeinalawlessland。Wewereallferriedsafelyacrossby8
o\'clockintheevening。
Inillustrationofwhattakesplacewherenogovernment,orlawexists,thetwohalf-castes,towhomthesemenbelonged,leftTette,withfourhundredslaves,armedwiththeoldSepoyBrownBess,tohuntelephantsandtradeinivory。Onourwayup,weheardfromnativesoftheirlawlessdeeds,andagain,onourwaydown,fromseveral,whohadbeeneyewitnessesoftheprincipalcrime,andallreportssubstantiallyagreed。Thestoryisasadone。AfterthetradersreachedZumbo,oneofthem,calledbythenativesSequasha,enteredintoaplotwiththedisaffectedheadman,Namakusuru,tokillhischief,Mpangwe,inorderthatNamakusurumightseizeuponthechieftainship;andforthemurderofMpangwethetraderagreedtoreceivetenlargetusksofivory。Sequasha,withapickedpartyofarmedslaves,wenttovisitMpangwewhoreceivedhimkindly,andtreatedhimwithallthehonourandhospitalityusuallyshowntodistinguishedstrangers,andthewomenbusiedthemselvesincookingthebestoftheirprovisionsfortherepasttobesetbeforehim。Ofthis,andalsoofthebeer,thehalf-castepartookheartily。MpangwewasthenaskedbySequashatoallowhismentofiretheirgunsinamusement。Innocentofanysuspicionoftreachery,andanxioustohearthereportoffirearms,Mpangweatoncegavehisconsent;andtheslavesroseandpouredamurderousvolleyintothemerrygroupofunsuspectingspectators,instantlykillingthechiefandtwentyofhispeople。Thesurvivorsfledinhorror。Thechildrenandyoungwomenwereseizedasslaves,andthevillagesacked。SequashasentthemessagetoNamakusuru:\"Ihavekilledthelionthattroubledyou;comeandletustalkoverthematter。”Hecameandbroughttheivory。\"No,\"saidthehalf-caste,\"letusdividetheland:\"andhetookthelargershareforhimself,andcompelledthewould-beusurpertodeliveruphisbracelets,intokenofsubjectiononbecomingthechildorvassalofSequasha。TheseweresentintriumphtotheauthoritiesatTette。ThegovernorofQuillimanehadtoldusthathehadreceivedordersfromLisbontotakeadvantageofourpassingtore-establishZumbo;andaccordinglythesetradershadbuiltasmallstockadeontherichplainoftherightbankofLoangwa,amileabovethesiteoftheancientmissionchurchofZumbo,aspartoftheroyalpolicy。Thebloodshedwasquiteunnecessary,because,thelandatZumbohavingofoldbeenpurchased,thenativeswouldhavealwaysoftheirownaccordacknowledgedtherightthusacquired;theypointeditouttoDr。Livingstonein1856that,thoughtheywerecultivatingit,iswasnottheirs,butwhiteman\'sland。Sequashaandhismatehadlefttheirivoryinchargeofsomeoftheirslaves,who,intheabsenceoftheirmasters,werenowhavingagaytimeofit,andgettingdrunkeverydaywiththeproduceofthesackedvillages。Theheadslavecameandbeggedforthemusketofthedelinquentferryman,whichwasreturned。HethoughthismasterdidperfectlyrighttokillMpangwe,whenaskedtodoitforthefeeoftentusks,andheevenjustifieditthus:\"Ifamaninvitesyoutoeat,willyounotpartake?\"
Wecontinuedourjourneyonthe28thofJune。Gamewasextremelyabundant,andthereweremanylions。Mbiadroveoneofffromhisfeastonawildpig,andappropriatedwhatremainedoftheporktohisownuse。Lionsareparticularlyfondofthefleshofwildpigsandzebras,andcontrivetokillalargenumberoftheseanimals。Intheafternoonwearrivedatthevillageofthefemalechief,Ma-
mburuma,butsheherselfwasnowlivingontheoppositesideoftheriver。Someofherpeoplecalled,andsaidshehadbeenfrightenedbyseeinghersonandotherchildrenkilledbySequasha,andhadfledtotheotherbank;butwhenherheartwashealed,shewouldreturnandliveinherownvillage,andamongherownpeople。Sheconstantlyinquiredoftheblacktraders,whocameuptheriver,iftheyhadanynewsofthewhitemanwhopassedwiththeoxen。\"Hehasgonedownintothesea,\"wastheirreply,\"butwebelongtothesamepeople。”\"Ohno;youneednottellmethat;hetakesnoslaves,butwishespeace:youarenotofhistribe。”Thisantislaverycharacterexcitessuchuniversalattention,thatanymissionarywhowinkedatthegiganticevilsinvolvedintheslave-tradewouldcertainlyfailtoproduceanygoodimpressiononthenativemind。
CHAPTERVI。
Illness——TheHoney-guide——Abundanceofgame——TheBaendapezi——TheBatoka。
Welefttheriverhere,andproceededupthevalleywhichleadstotheMburumaorMohangopass。Thenightswerecold,andonthe30thofJunethethermometerwasaslowas39degreesatsunrise。Wepassedthroughavillageoftwentylargehuts,whichSequashahadattackedonhisreturnfromthemurderofthechief,Mpangwe。Hecaughtthewomenandchildrenforslaves,andcarriedoffallthefood,exceptahugebasketofbran,whichthenativesarewonttosaveagainstatimeoffamine。Hisslaveshadbrokenallthewater-
potsandthemillstonesforgrindingmeal。
Thebuaze-treesandbamboosarenowseenonthehills;butthejujubeorzisyphus,whichhasevidentlybeenintroducedfromIndia,extendsnofurtheruptheriver。Wehadbeeneatingthisfruit,which,havingsomewhatthetasteofapples,thePortuguesecallMacaas,allthewayfromTette;andheretheywerelargerthanusual,thoughimmediatelybeyondtheyceasedtobefound。Nomango-treeeitheristobemetwithbeyondthispoint,becausethePortuguesetradersneverestablishedthemselvesanywherebeyondZumbo。Tsetsefliesaremorenumerousandtroublesomethanwehaveeverbeforefoundthem。
Theyaccompanyusonthemarch,oftenbuzzingroundourheadslikeaswarmofbees。Theyareverycunning,andwhenintendingtobite,alightsogentlythattheirpresenceisnotperceivedtilltheythrustintheirlance-likeproboscis。Thebiteisacute,butthepainisoverinamoment;itisfollowedbyalittleofthedisagreeableitchingofthemosquito\'sbite。Thisflyinvariablykillsalldomesticanimalsexceptgoatsanddonkeys;manandthewildanimalsescape。Weourselveswereseverelybittenonthispass,andsowereourdonkeys,butneithersufferedfromanyaftereffects。
WaterisscarceintheMburumapass,exceptduringtherainyseason。
Wehoweverhaltedbesidesomefinespringsinthebedofthenowdryrivulet,Podebode,whichiscontinueddowntotheendofthepass,andyieldswateratintervalsinpools。HereweremainedacoupleofdaysinconsequenceofthesevereillnessofDr。Kirk。Hehadseveraltimesbeenattackedbyfever;andobservedthatwhenwewereonthecoolheightshewascomfortable,butwhenwehappenedtodescendfromahightoaloweraltitude,hefeltchilly,thoughthetemperatureinthelattercasewas25degreeshigherthanitwasabove;hehadbeentryingdifferentmedicinesofreputedefficacywithaviewtoascertainwhetherothercombinationsmightnotbesuperiortothepreparationwegenerallyused;inhaltingbythiswaterhesuddenlybecameblind,andunabletostandfromfaintness。
Themen,withgreatalacrity,preparedagrassybed,onwhichwelaidourcompanion,withthesadforebodingswhichonlythosewhohavetendedthesickinawildcountrycanrealize。Wefearedthatinexperimentinghehadover-druggedhimself;butwegavehimadoseofourfeverpills;onthethirddayherodetheoneofthetwodonkeysthatwouldallowitselftobemounted,andonthesixthhemarchedaswellasanyofus。Thiscaseismentionedinordertoillustratewhatwehaveoftenobserved,thatmovingthepatientfromplacetoplaceismostconducivetothecure;andthemorepluckamanhas——
thelesshegivesintothedisease——thelesslikelyheistodie。
SuppliedwithwaterbythepoolsinthePodebode,weagainjoinedtheZambesiattheconfluenceoftherivulet。Whenpassingthroughadrydistrictthenativehunterknowswheretoexpectwaterbytheanimalshesees。Thepresenceofthegemsbuck,duikerordiver,springbucks,orelephants,isnoproofthatwaterisnear;fortheseanimalsroamovervasttractsofcountry,andmaybemetscoresofmilesfromit。
Notso,however,thezebra,pallah,buffalo,andrhinoceros;theirspoorgivesassurancethatwaterisnotfaroff,astheyneverstrayanydistancefromitsneighbourhood。Butwhenamidstthesolemnstillnessofthewoods,thesingingofjoyousbirdsfallsupontheear,itiscertainthatwateriscloseathand。
Ourmeninhuntingcameonanimmenseherdofbuffaloes,quietlyrestinginthelongdrygrass,andbegantoblazeawayfuriouslyattheastonishedanimals。Inthewildexcitementofthehunt,whichheretoforehadbeenconductedwithspears,someforgottoloadwithball,and,firingawayvigorouslywithpowderonly,wonderedforthemomentthatthebuffaloesdidnotfall。Theslayeroftheyoungelephant,havingburiedhisfourbulletsinasmanybuffaloes,firedthreechargesofNo。1shothehadforkillingguinea-fowl。Thequaintremarksandmerrimentaftertheselittleadventuresseemedtothelistenerlikethepleasantprattleofchildren。MbiaandMantlanyane,however,killedonebuffaloeach;boththebeastswereinprimecondition;themeatwaslikereallyexcellentbeef,withasmackofvenison。Atroopofhungry,howlinghyenasalsothoughtthesavourtempting,astheyhungroundthecampatnight,anxioustopartakeofthefeast。Theyare,fortunately,arrantcowards,andneverattackeithermenorbeastsexcepttheycancatchthemasleep,sick,oratsomeotherdisadvantage。Withabrightfireatourfeettheirpresenceexcitesnouneasiness。Apieceofmeathungonatree,highenoughtomakehimjumptoreachit,andashortspear,withitshandlefirmlyplantedinthegroundbeneath,areusedasadevicetoinducethehyenatocommitsuicidebyimpalement。
Thehoney-guideisanextraordinarybird;howisitthateverymemberofitsfamilyhaslearnedthatallmen,whiteorblack,arefondofhoney?Theinstantthelittlefellowgetsaglimpseofaman,hehastenstogreethimwiththeheartyinvitationtocome,asMbiatranslatedit,toabees\'hive,andtakesomehoney。Hefliesonintheproperdirection,perchesonatree,andlooksbacktoseeifyouarefollowing;thenontoanotherandanother,untilheguidesyoutothespot。Ifyoudonotaccepthisfirstinvitationhefollowsyouwithpressingimportunities,quiteasanxioustolurethestrangertothebees\'hiveasotherbirdsaretodrawhimawayfromtheirownnest。Exceptwhileonthemarch,ourmenweresuretoaccepttheinvitation,andmanifestedthesamebyapeculiarresponsivewhistle,meaning,astheysaid,\"Allright,goahead;wearecoming。”Thebirdneverdeceivedthem,butalwaysguidedthemtoahiveofbees,thoughsomehadbutlittlehoneyinstore。Hasthispeculiarhabitofthehoney-guideitsorigin,astheattachmentofdogs,infriendshipforman,orinloveforthesweetpickingsoftheplunderleftontheground?Self-interestaidinginpreservationfromdangerseemstobetheruleinmostcases,as,forinstance,inthebirdthatguardsthebuffaloandrhinoceros。Thegrassisoftensotallanddensethatonecouldgocloseuptotheseanimalsquiteunperceived;buttheguardianbird,sittingonthebeast,seestheapproachofdanger,flapsitswingsandscreams,whichcausesitsbulkychargetorushofffromafoehehasneitherseennorheard;
forhisrewardthevigilantlittlewatcherhasthepickoftheparasitesonhisfatfriend。Inothercasesachanceofescapemustbegivenevenbytheanimalitselftoitsprey;asintherattle-
snake,which,whenexcitedtostrike,cannotavoidusinghisrattle,anymorethanthecatcanresistcurlingitstailwhenexcitedinthechaseofamouse,orthecobracanrefrainfrominflatingthelooseskinoftheneckandextendingitlaterally,beforestrikingitspoisonfangsintoitsvictim。Therearemanysnakesinpartsofthispass;theybaskedinthewarmsunshine,butrustledoffthroughtheleavesasweapproached。Weobservedonemorningasmalloneofadeadlypoisonousspecies,namedKakone,onabushbythewayside,quietlyrestinginahorizontalposition,digestingalizardforbreakfast。Thoughopenlyinview,itscoloursandcurvessocloselyresembledasmallbranchthatsomefailedtoseeit,evenafterbeingaskediftheyperceivedanythingonthebush。Herealsooneofournumberhadaglanceatanotherspecies,rarelyseen,andwhoseswiftlightning-likemotionhasgivenrisetothenativeproverb,thatwhenamanseesthissnakehewillforthwithbecomearichman。
Wesleptneartheruinedvillageofthemurderedchief,Mpangwe,alovelyspot,withtheZambesiinfront,andextensivegardensbehind,backedbyasemicircleofhillsrecedinguptoloftymountains。Ourpathkeptthesemountainsonourright,andcrossedseveralstreamlets,whichseemedtobeperennial,andamongotherstheSelole,whichapparentlyflowspasttheprominentpeakChiarapela。
Theserivuletshaveoftenhumandwellingsontheirbanks;butthelandcanscarcelybesaidtobeoccupied。Thenumberofallsortsofgameincreaseswonderfullyeveryday。Asaspecimenofwhatmaybemetwithwheretherearenohumanhabitations,andwherenofirearmshavebeenintroduced,wemaymentionwhatattimeshasactuallybeenseenbyus。OnthemorningofJuly3rdaherdofelephantspassedwithinfiftyyardsofoursleeping-place,goingdowntotheriveralongthedrybedofarivulet。Startingafewminutesbeforethemainbody,wecomeuponlargeflocksofguinea-fowl,shootwhatmaybewantedfordinner,ornextmorning\'sbreakfast,andleavetheminthepathtobepickedupbythecookandhismatesbehind。Asweproceed,francolinsofthreevarietiesrunacrossthepath,andhundredsofturtle-dovesrise,withgreatblatterofwing,andflyofftothetrees。Guinea-fowls,francolins,turtle-doves,ducks,andgeesearethegamebirdsofthisregion。Atsunriseaherdofpallahs,standinglikeaflockofsheep,allowthefirstmanofourlongIndianfiletoapproachwithinaboutfiftyyards;buthavingmeat,weletthemtrotoffleisurelyandunmolested。Soonafterwardswecomeuponaherdofwaterbucks,whichhereareverymuchdarkerincolour,anddrierinflesh,thanthesamespeciesnearthesea。Theylookatusandweatthem;andwepassontoseeaherdofdoekoodoos,withamagnificentlyhornedbuckortwo,hurryingofftothedryhill-sides。Wehaveceasedshootingantelopes,asourmenhavebeensooftengorgedwithmeatthattheyhavebecomefatanddainty。
Theysaythattheydonotwantmorevenison,itissodryandtasteless,andaskwhywedonotgivethemshottoshootthemoresavouryguinea-fowl。
Abouteighto\'clockthetsetsecommencetobuzzaboutus,andbiteourhandsandneckssharply。Justaswearethinkingofbreakfast,wemeetsomebuffaloesgrazingbythepath;buttheymakeoffinaheavygallopatthesightofman。Wefire,andtheforemost,badlywounded,separatesfromtheherd,andisseentostopamongstthetrees;but,asitisamatterofgreatdangertofollowawoundedbuffalo,weholdonourway。Itisthislosingofwoundedanimalswhichmakesfirearmssoannihilatingtothesebeastsofthefield,andwillintimesweepthemallaway。ThesmallEnfieldbulletisworsethantheoldroundoneforthis。Itoftengoesthroughananimalwithoutkillinghim,andheafterwardsperishes,whenheisofnovaluetoman。Afterbreakfastwedrawnearapondofwater;acoupleofelephantsstandonitsbank,and,atarespectfuldistancebehindthesemonarchsofthewilderness,isseenaherdofzebras,andanotherofwaterbucks。Ongettingourwindtheroyalbeastsmakeoffatonce;butthezebrasremaintilltheforemostmaniswithineightyyardsofthem,whenoldandyoungcantergracefullyaway。Thezebrahasagreatdealofcuriosity;andthisisoftenfataltohim,forhehasthehabitofstoppingtolookatthehunter。Inthisparticularheistheexactoppositeofthediverantelope,whichrushesofflikethewind,andneverforamomentstopstolookbehind,afterhavingonceseenorsmeltdanger。Thefinestzebraoftheherdissometimesshot,ourmenhavingtakenasuddenfancytotheflesh,whichalldeclaretobethe\"kingofgoodmeat。”Ontheplainsofshortgrassbetweenusandtherivermanyantelopesofdifferentspeciesarecalmlygrazing,orreposing。Wildpigsarecommon,andwalkabroadduringtheday;butaresoshyasseldomtoallowacloseapproach。Ontakingalarmtheyerecttheirslendertailsintheair,andtrotoffswiftlyinastraightline,keepingtheirbodiesassteadyasalocomotiveonarailroad。Amilebeyondthepoolthreecowbuffaloeswiththeircalvescomefromthewoods,andmoveoutintotheplain。Atroopofmonkeys,ontheedgeoftheforest,scamperbacktoitsdepthsonhearingtheloudsongofSingeleka,andoldsurlyfellows,catchingsightofthehumanparty,insultitwithaloudandangrybark。Earlyintheafternoonwemayseebuffaloesagain,orotheranimals。Wecamponthedryhigherground,after,ashashappened,drivingoffasolitaryelephant。Thenightsarewarmernow,andpossessnearlyasmuchofinterestandnoveltyasthedays。Anewworldawakesandcomesforth,morenumerous,ifwemayjudgebythenoiseitmakes,thanthatwhichisabroadbysunlight。Lionsandhyenasroararoundus,andsometimescomedisagreeablynear,thoughtheyhaveneverventuredintoourmidst。Strangebirdssingtheiragreeablesongs,whileothersscreamandcallharshlyasifinfearoranger。Marvellousinsect-soundsfallupontheear;one,saidbynativestoproceedfromalargebeetle,resemblesasuccessionofmeasuredmusicalblowsuponananvil,whilemanyothersareperfectlyindescribable。Alittlelemurwasonceseentoleapaboutfrombranchtobranchwiththeagilityofafrog;itchirrupedlikeabird,andisnotlargerthanarobinred-
breast。Reptiles,thoughnumerous,seldomtroubledus;onlytwomensufferedfromstings,andthatveryslightly,duringtheentirejourney,theonesupposedthathewasbittenbyasnake,andtheotherwasstungbyascorpion。
Grass-burninghasbegun,andisproducingthebluehazyatmosphereoftheAmericanIndiansummer,whichinWesternAfricaiscalledthe\"smokes。”Milesoffireburnonthemountain-sidesintheevenings,butgooutduringthenight。Fromtheirheighttheyresembleabroadzigzaglineoffireintheheavens。
Wesleptonthenightofthe6thofJulyontheleftbankoftheChongwe,whichcomesthroughagapinthehillsonourright,andistwentyyardswide。AsmalltribeoftheBazizulu,fromthesouth,underDadanga,haverecentlysettledhereandbuiltavillage。Someoftheirhousesaresquare,andtheyseemtobeonfriendlytermswiththeBakoa,whoownthecountry。They,liketheothernatives,cultivatecotton,butofadifferentspeciesfromanywehaveyetseeninAfrica,thestaplebeingverylong,andthebolllargerthanwhatisusuallymetwith;theseedscohereasinthePernambucokind。
Theybroughttheseedwiththemfromtheirowncountry,thedistantmountainsofwhichinthesouth,stillinhabitedbytheirfellow-
countrymen,whopossessmuchcattleanduseshields,canbeseenfromthishighground。Thesepeopleprofesstobechildrenofthegreatparamountchief,Kwanyakarombe,whoissaidtobelordofalltheBazizulu。Thenameofthistribeisknowntogeographers,whoderivetheirinformationfromthePortuguese,astheMorusurus,andthehillsmentionedabovearesaidtohavebeenthecountryofChangamira,thewarrior-chiefofhistory,whomnoPortugueseeverdaredtoapproach。TheBazizuluseem,byreport,tobebravemountaineers;nearertheriver,theSidimainhabittheplains;justasonthenorthside,theBabimpeliveontheheights,abouttwodaysoff,andtheMakoaonorneartheriver。ThechiefoftheBazizuluwewerenowwithwashospitableandfriendly。Aherdofbuffaloescametramplingthroughthegardensandrousedupourmen;afeatthatroaringlionsseldomachieved。
Ourcoursenextdaypassedovertheupperterraceandthroughadensethornjungle。Travellingisalwaysdifficultwherethereisnopath,butitisevenmoreperplexingwheretheforestiscutupbymanygame-tracks。Herewegotseparatedfromoneanother,andarhinoceroswithangrysnortdashedatDr。Livingstoneashestoopedtopickupaspecimenofthewildfruitmorula;butshestrangelystoppedstock-stillwhenlessthanherownlengthdistant,andgavehimtimetoescape;abranchpulledouthiswatchasheran,andturninghalfroundtograspit,hegotadistantglanceofherandhercalfstillstandingontheselfsamespot,asifarrestedinthemiddleofherchargebyanunseenhand。Whenaboutfiftyyardsoff,thinkinghiscompanionsclosebehind,heshouted\"Lookoutthere!\"
whenoffsherushed,snortingloudly,inanotherdirection。TheDoctorusuallywentunarmedbeforethis,butneverafterwards。
AfineelandwasshotbyDr。Kirkthisafternoon,thefirstwehavekilled。Itwasinfirst-ratecondition,andremarkablyfat;butthemeat,thoughsotemptinginappearance,severelyderangedallwhopartookofitheartily,especiallythosewhoateofthefat。Nativeswholiveingamecountries,andareacquaintedwiththedifferentkindsofwildanimals,haveaprejudiceagainstthefatoftheeland,thepallah,thezebra,hippopotamus,andpig;theyneverrejectit,however,theclimatemakingthedesireforallanimalfoodverystrong;buttheyconsiderthatitcausesulcersandleprosy,whilethefatofsheepandofoxenneverproducesanybadeffects,unlesstheanimalisdiseased。
Onthemorningofthe9th,afterpassingfourvillages,webreakfastedatanoldfriend\'s,Tombanyama,wholivesnowonthemainland,havingresignedthereedyisland,wherehewasfirstseen,tothebuffaloes,whichusedtotakehiscropsandshowfighttohismen。Hekeepsalargeflockoftamepigeons,andsomefinefatcapons,oneofwhichhegaveus,withabasketofmeal。Theyhaveplentyofsaltinthispartofthecountry,obtainingitfromtheplainsintheusualway。