第11章

类别:其他 作者:David Livingstone字数:14762更新时间:18/12/14 10:02:35
Thehalf-castepartnerofSequashaandanumberofhismenwerestayingnear。Thefellowwasverymunchfrightenedwhenhesawus,andtrembledsomuchwhenhespoke,thattheMakololoandothernativesnoticedandremarkedonit。Hisfearsarosefromasenseofguilt,aswesaidnothingtofrightenhim,anddidnotalludetothemurdertillafewminutesbeforestarting;whenitwasremarkedthatDr。Livingstonehavingbeenaccreditedtothemurderedchief,itwouldbehisdutytoreportonit;andthatnoteventhePortugueseGovernmentwouldapproveofthedeed。Hedefendeditbysayingthattheyhadputintherightman,theotherwasausurper。Hewasevidentlygreatlyrelievedwhenwedeparted。IntheafternoonwecametoanoutlyinghamletofKambadzo,whoseownvillageisonanisland,Nyampungo,orNyangalule,attheconfluenceoftheKafue。 Thechiefwasonavisithere,andtheyhadbeenenjoyingaregularjollification。Therehadbeenmuchmirth,music,drinking,anddancing。Themen,andwomentoo,hadtaken\"aweedraptoomuch,\" buthadnotpassedthecomplimentarystage。Thewifeoftheheadman,afterlookingatusafewmoments,calledouttotheothers,\"Blacktradershavecomebefore,callingthemselvesBazungu,orwhitemen,butnow,forthefirsttime,haveweseentherealBazungu。” Kambadzoalsosoonappeared;hewassorrythatwehadnotcomebeforethebeerwasalldone,buthewasgoingbacktoseeifitwasallreallyandentirelyfinished,andnotonelittlepotfulleftsomewhere。 Thiswas,ofcourse,merecharacteristicpoliteness,ashewasperfectlyawarethateverydrophadbeenswallowed;soweproceededontotheKafue,orKafuje,accompaniedbythemostintelligentofhisheadmen。Ahighridge,justbeforewereachedtheconfluence,commandsasplendidviewofthetwogreatrivers,andtherichcountrybeyond。Behind,onthenorthandeast,isthehighmountain- range,alongwhosebasewehavebeentravelling;thewholerangeiscoveredwithtrees,whichappearevenontheprominentpeaks,Chiarapela,Morindi,andChiava;atthislastthechainbendsawaytotheN。W。,andwecouldseethedistantmountainswherethechief,Semalembue,gainedallourheartsin1856。 Onthe9thofJulywetriedtosendSemalembueapresent,butthepeoplehererefusedtoincurtheresponsibilityofcarryingit。We,whohavetheartofwriting,cannotrealizethedangeroneincursofbeingaccusedofpurloiningaportionofgoodssentfromonepersontoanother,whenthecarriercannotprovethathedeliveredallcommittedtohischarge。Rumoursofaforayhavingbeenmade,eitherbyMakololoorBatoka,asfarastheforkoftheKafue,werereceivedherebyourmenwithgreatindignation,asitlookedasifthemarauderswereshuttingupthecountry,whichtheyhadbeentryingsomuchtoopen。Belowthejunctionoftherivers,onashallowsandbank,layalargeherdofhippopotami,theirbodiesoutofthewater,likemassesofblackrock。Kambadzo\'sisland,calledNyangalule,anamewhichoccursagainatthemouthoftheZambesi,hasmanychoiceMotsikiri(Trachelia)treesonit;andfourveryconspicuousstatelypalmsgrowingoutofasinglestem。TheKafueremindsusalittleoftheShire,flowingbetweensteepbanks,withfertilelandonbothsides。Itisasmallerriver,andhaslesscurrent。Hereitseemstocomefromthewest。Theheadmanofthevillage,nearwhichweencamped,broughtapresentofmeal,fowls,andsweetpotatoes。Theyhaveboththeredandwhitevarietiesofthispotato。Wehave,onseveraloccasionsduringthisjourney,feltthewantofvegetables,inadisagreeablecravingwhichourdietofmeatandnativemealcouldnotsatisfy。Itbecameworseandworsetillwegotamealofpotatoes,whichallayeditatonce。AgreatscarcityofvegetablesprevailsinthesepartsofAfrica。Thenativescollectseveralkindsofwildplantsinthewoods,whichtheyusenodoubtforthepurposeofdrivingoffcravingssimilartothoseweexperienced。 Owingtothestrengthofthewind,andthecrankystateofthecanoes,itwaslateintheafternoonofthe11thbeforeourpartywasferriedovertheKafue。Aftercrossing,wewereintheBawecountry。 Fishhookshere,ofnativeworkmanship,wereobservedtohavebarbsliketheEuropeanhooks:elsewherethepointofthehookismerelybentintowardstheshank,tohavethesameeffectinkeepingonthefishasthebarb。Wesleptnearavillageashortdistanceabovetheford。ThepeoplehereareofBatokaorigin,thesameasmanyofourmen,andcallthemselvesBatonga(independents),orBalengi,andtheirlanguageonlydiffersslightlyfromthatoftheBakoa,wholivebetweenthetworiversKafueandLoangwa。Theparamountchiefofthedistrictlivestothewestofthisplace,andiscalledNchomokela—— anhereditarytitle:thefamilyburying-placeisonasmallhillnearthisvillage。Thewomensaluteusbyclappingtheirhandsandlullilooingasweenterandleaveavillage,andthemen,astheythink,respectfullyclaptheirhandsontheirhips。Immensecropsofmapira(holcussorghum)areraised;onespeciesofitformsanaturalbendontheseed-stalk,sothatthemassiveearhangsdown。Thegrainwasheapeduponwoodenstages,andsowasavarietyofotherproducts。Themenareskilfulhunters,andkillelephantsandbuffaloeswithlongheavyspears。Wehaltedafewminutesonthemorningofthe12thJuly,oppositethenarrowislandofSikakoa,whichhasavillageonitslowerend。WewereheretoldthatMoselekatse\'schieftownisamonth\'sdistancefromthisplace。Theyhadheard,moreover,thattheEnglishhadcometoMoselekatse,andtoldhimitwaswrongtokillmen;andhehadrepliedthathewasborntokillpeople,butwoulddropthehabit;and,sincetheEnglishcame,hehadsentouthismen,nottokillasofyore,buttocollecttributeofclothandivory。ThisreportreferredtothearrivaloftheRev。R。Moffat,ofKuruman,who,weafterwardsfound,hadestablishedamission。Thestatementisinterestingasshowingthat,thoughimperfectlyexpressed,thepurportofthemissionaries\' teachinghadtravelled,inashorttime,over300miles,andweknownothowfartheknowledgeoftheEnglishoperationsonthecoastspreadinland。 WhenabreastofthehighwoodedislandKalabiwecameincontactwithoneofthegame-lawsofthecountry,whichhascomedownfromthemostancienttimes。Anoldbuffalocrossedthepathafewyardsinfrontofus;ourguidethrewhissmallspearatitship,anditwasgoingoffscarcelyhurt,whenthreerifleballsknockeditover。\"Itismine,\"saidtheguide。Hehadwoundeditfirst,andtheestablishednativegame-lawisthattheanimalbelongstothemanwhofirstdrawsblood;thetwolegsononeside,bythesamelaw,belongedtousforkillingit。Thisbeastwasveryold,blindofoneeye,andscabby;thehorns,merestumps,notafootlong,musthaveatrophied,whenbyagehelostthestrengthdistinctiveofhissex; someeighteenortwentyinchesofhorncouldnotwellbeworndownbymererubbingagainstthetrees。Wesawmanybuffaloesnextday,standingquietlyamidstathickthorn-jungle,throughwhichwewerepassing。Theyoftenstooduntilwewerewithinfiftyorahundredyardsofthem。 Onthe14thJulywelefttheriveratthemountain-range,which,lyingnorth-eastandsouth-westacrosstheriver,formstheKaribagorge。NeartheupperendoftheKaribarapids,thestreamSanyatientersfromthesouth,andisreportedtohaveMoselekatse\'sprincipalcattle-postsatitssources;ourroutewentroundtheendofthemountains,andweencampedbesidethevillageofthegenerouschiefMoloi,whobroughtusthreeimmensebasketsoffinemapirameal,tenfowls,andtwopotsofbeer。Onreceivingapresentinreturn,herose,and,withafewdancinggestures,saidorsang,\"Motota,Motota,Motota,\"whichourmentranslatedinto\"thanks。”HehadvisitedMoselekatseafewmonthsbeforeourarrival,andsawtheEnglishmissionaries,livingintheirwagons。\"TheytoldMoselekatse,\"saidhe,\"theywereofhisfamily,orfriends,andwouldploughthelandandliveattheirownexpense;\"andhehadreplied,\"Thelandisbeforeyou,andIshallcomeandseeyouplough。”Thisagainwassubstantiallywhattookplace,whenMr。 Moffatintroducedthemissionariestohisoldfriend,andshowsstillfurtherthatthenotionoflosingtheircountrybyadmittingforeignersdoesnotcomeasthefirstideatothenativemind。Onemightimaginethat,asmechanicalpowersareunknowntotheheathen,thealmostmagicoperationsofmachinery,thediscoveriesofmodernscienceandart,orthepresenceoftheprodigiousforcewhich,forinstance,isassociatedwiththesightofaman-of-war,wouldhavetheeffectwhichmiraclesoncehadofarrestingtheattentionandinspiringawe。But,thoughwehaveheardthenativesexclaiminadmirationatthesightofevensmallillustrationsofwhatscienceenablesustodo——\"Yearegods,andnotmen\"——theheartisunaffected。Inattemptingtheirmoralelevation,itisalwaysmoreconducivetotheenddesired,thattheteachershouldcomeunaccompaniedbyanypowertocauseeitherjealousyorfear。Theheathen,whohavenotbecomeawareofthegreedandhatewhichtoooftencharacterizetheadvancingtideofemigration,listenwithmostattentiontothemessageofDivinelovewhendeliveredbymenwhoevidentlypossessthesamehumansympathieswiththemselves。Achiefisratherenviedhisgoodfortuneinfirstsecuringforeignersinhistown。JealousyofstrangersbelongsmoretotheArabthantotheAfricancharacter;andifthewomenareletalonebythetraveller,nodangerneedbeapprehendedfromanysavetheslave-tradingtribes,andnotoftenevenfromthem。 Wepassedthroughafertilecountry,coveredwithopenforest,accompaniedbythefriendlyBawe。Theyareveryhospitable;manyofthemwerenamed,amongthemselves,\"theBaendapezi,\"or\"Go-nakeds,\" theironlyclothingbeingacoatofredochre。Occasionallystoppingattheirvillagesweweredulylullilooed,andregaledwithsweetnew-madebeer,which,beingyetunfermented,wasnotintoxicating。 ItisinthisstatecalledLitingorMakonde。Someofthemencarrylargeshieldsofbuffalo-hide,andallarewellsuppliedwithheavyspears。Thevicinityofthevillagesisusuallyclearedandcultivatedinlargepatches;butnowherecanthecountrybesaidtobestockedwithpeople。Ateveryvillagestandswereerected,andpilesofthenativecorn,stillunthrashed,placeduponthem;somehadbeenbeatenout,putintooblongparcelsmadeofgrass,andstackedinwoodenframes。 Wecrossedseveralrivuletsinourcourse,astheMandora,theLofia,theManzaia(withbrackishwater),theRimbe,theChibue,theChezia,theChilola(containingfragmentsofcoal),whichdidlittlemorethanmarkourprogress。TheislandandrapidofNakansalo,ofwhichwehadformerlyheard,wereofnoimportance,therapidbeingbuthalfamilelong,andonlyononesideoftheisland。TheislandKaluzimarksoneofthenumerousplaceswhereastronomicalobservationsweremade;Mozia,astationwhereavolunteerpoetleftus;theislandMochenya,andMpandeisland,atthemouthoftheZungwerivulet,wherewelefttheZambesi。 Whenfavouredwiththehospitalityandcompanyofthe\"Go-nakeds,\"wetriedtodiscoverifnuditywerethebadgeofaparticularorderamongtheBawe,buttheycouldonlyrefertocustom。Someamongthemhadalwayslikeditfornoreasoninparticular:shameseemedtoliedormant,andthesensecouldnotbearousedbyourlaughingandjokingthemontheirappearance。Theyevidentlyfeltnolessdecentthanwedidwithourclotheson;but,whatevermaybesaidinfavourofnudestatues,itstruckusthatman,inastateofnature,isamostungainlyanimal。Couldweseeanumberofthedegradedofourownlowerclassesinlikeguise,itisprobablethat,withouttheblackcolourwhichactssomehowasadress,theywouldlookworsestill。 IndomesticcontentionstheBawearecarefulnottokilleachother; but,whenonevillagegoestowarwithanother,theyarenotsoparticular。Thevictoriouspartyaresaidtoquarteroneofthebodiesoftheenemiestheymayhavekilled,andtoperformcertainceremoniesoverthefragments。Thevanquishedcallupontheirconquerorstogivethemaportionalso;and,whenthisrequestiscompliedwith,theytooperformthesameceremonies,andlamentovertheirdeadcomrade,afterwhichthelatecombatantsmayvisiteachotherinpeace。Sometimestheheadoftheslainistakenandburiedinanant-hill,tillallthefleshisgone;andthelowerjawisthenwornasatrophybytheslayer;butthisweneversaw,andtheforegoinginformationwasobtainedonlythroughaninterpreter。 WelefttheZambesiatthemouthoftheZungweorMozamaorDelarivulet,upwhichweproceeded,firstinawesterlyandtheninanorth-westerlydirection。TheZungweatthistimehadnowaterinitssandychannelforthefirsteightortenmiles。Willows,however,growonthebanks,andwatersoonbegantoappearinthehollows;andafewmilesfurtherupitwasafineflowingstreamdeliciouslycold。AsinmanyotherstreamsfromChicovatonearSinamaneshaleandcoalcropoutinthebank;andherethelargerootsofstigmariaoritsalliedplantswerefound。WefollowedthecourseoftheZungwetothefootoftheBatokahighlands,upwhosesteepandruggedsidesofredandwhitequartzweclimbedtillweattainedanaltitudeofupwardsof3000feet。Here,onthecoolandbracingheights,theexhilarationofmindandbodywasdelightful,aswelookedbackatthehollowbeneathcoveredwithahotsultryglare,notunpleasantnowthatwewereinthemildradianceabove。WehadanobleviewofthegreatvalleyinwhichtheZambesiflows。Thecultivatedportionsaresosmallincomparisontotherestofthelandscapethatthevalleyappearsnearlyallforest,withafewgrassyglades。Wespentthenightofthe28thJulyhighabovethelevelofthesea,bytherivuletTyotyo,nearTabacheuorChirebuechina,namesbothsignifyingwhitemountain;inthemorninghoarfrostcoveredtheground,andthinicewasonthepools。 SkirtingthesouthernflankofTabacheu,wesoonpassedfromthehillsontotheportionofthevasttable-landcalledMataba,andlookingbacksawallthewayacrosstheZambesivalleytotheloftyridgesomethirtymilesoff,which,comingfromtheMashona,acountryintheS。E。,runstotheN。W。tojointheridgeattheangleofwhicharetheVictoriaFalls,andthenbendsfartotheN。E。fromthesamepoint。OnlyafewyearssincetheseextensivehighlandswerepeopledbytheBatoka;numerousherdsofcattlefurnishedabundanceofmilk,andtherichsoilamplyrepaidthelabourofthehusbandman;nowlargeherdsofbuffaloes,zebras,andantelopesfattenontheexcellentpasture;andonthatland,whichformerlysupportedmultitudes,notamanistobeenseen。IntravellingfromMondaymorningtilllateonSaturdayafternoon,allthewayfromTabacheutoMoachemba,whichisonlytwenty-onemilesoflatitudefromtheVictoriaFalls,andconstantlypassingtheruinedsitesofutterlydesertedBotokavillages,wedidnotfallinwithasingleperson。TheBatokaweredrivenoutoftheirnoblecountrybytheinvasionsofMoselekatseandSebetuane。SeveraltribesofBechuanaandBasutu,fleeingfromtheZuluorMatebelechiefMoselekatsereachedtheZambesiabovetheFalls。Comingfromalandwithoutrivers,noneofthemknewhowtoswim;andonetribe,calledtheBamangwato,wishingtocrosstheZambesi,wasferriedover,menandwomenseparately,todifferentislands,byoneoftheBatokachiefs; themenwerethenlefttostarveandthewomenappropriatedbytheferrymanandhispeople。Sekomi,thepresentchiefoftheBamangwato,thenaninfantinhismother\'sarms,wasenabled,throughthekindnessofaprivateBatoka,toescape。ThisactseemstohavemadeanindelibleimpressiononSekomi\'sheart,forthoughotherwisecallous,hestillneverfailstoinquireafterthewelfareofhisbenefactor。 Sebetuane,withhiswontedability,outwittedthetreacherousBatoka,byinsistinginthepolitestmannerontheirchiefremainingathisownsideuntilthepeopleandcattlewereallcarriedsafeacross; thechiefwasthenhandsomelyrewarded,bothwithcattleandbrassringsoffSebetuane\'sownwives。NosoonerweretheMakololo,thencalledBasuto,safelyover,thantheywereconfrontedbythewholeBatokanation;andtothisdaytheMakololopointwithpridetothespotontheLekone,neartowhichtheywereencamped,whereSebetuane,withamerehandfulofwarriorsincomparisontothevasthordethatsurroundedhim,stoodwaitingtheonslaught,thewarriorsinonesmallbody,thewomenandchildrenguardingthecattlebehindthem。TheBatoka,ofcourse,meltedawaybeforethosewhohadbeenmadeveteransbyyearsofcontinualfighting,andSebetuanealwaysjustifiedhissubsequentconquestsinthatcountrybyallegingthattheBatokahadcomeouttofightwithamanfleeingforhislife,whohadneverdonethemanywrong。Theyseemnevertohavebeenawarlikerace;passingthroughtheircountry,weonceobservedalargestonecairn,andourguidefavoureduswiththefollowingaccountofit:-\"Onceuponatime,ourforefathersweregoingtofightanothertribe,andheretheyhaltedandsatdown。Afteralongconsultation,theycametotheunanimousconclusionthat,insteadofproceedingtofightandkilltheirneighbours,andperhapsbekilledthemselves,itwouldbemorelikementoraisethisheapofstones,astheirprotestagainstthewrongtheothertribehaddonethem,which,havingaccomplished,theyreturnedquietlyhome。”SuchmenofpeacecouldnotstandbeforetheMakololo,nor,ofcourse,themorewarlikeMatebele,whocomingafterwards,droveeventheirconquerors,theMakololo,outofthecountry。Sebetuane,however,profitingbythetacticswhichhehadlearnedoftheBatoka,inveigledalargebodyofthisnewenemyontoanotherisland,andafterduestarvationthereovercamethewhole。Amuchgreaterarmyof\"Moselekatse\'sown\" followedwithcanoes,butwerenowbaffledbySebetuane\'splacingallhispeopleandcattleonanislandandsoguardingitthatnonecouldapproach。Dispirited,famished,bornedownbyfever,theyreturnedtotheFalls,andallexceptfivewerecutoff。 ButthoughtheBatokaappearnevertohavehadmuchinclinationtofightwithmen,theyaredecidedlybravehuntersofbuffaloesandelephants。Theygofearlesslycloseuptotheseformidableanimals,andkillthemwithlargespears。TheBanyai,whohavelongbulliedallPortuguesetraders,wereamazedatthedaringandbraveryoftheBatokaincomingatoncetoclosequarterswiththeelephant;andChisaka,aPortugueserebel,havingformerlyinducedabodyofthistribetosettlewithhim,ravagedallthePortuguesevillasaroundTette。TheybearthenameofBasimilongwe,andsomeofourmenfoundrelationsamongthem。SininyaneandMatengaalso,twoofourparty,wereonceinveigledintoaPortugueseexpeditionagainstMariano,bytheassertionthattheDoctorhadarrivedandhadsentforthemtocomedowntoSenna。Onfindingthattheywereentrappedtofight,theyleft,afterseeinganofficerwithalargenumberofTetteslaveskilled。 TheBatokahadattainedsomewhatcivilizedideas,inplantingandprotectingvariousfruitandoil-seedyieldingtreesofthecountry。 Noothertribeeitherplantsorabstainsfromcuttingdownfruittrees,butherewesawsomewhichhadbeenplantedinregularrows,andthetrunksofwhichwerequitetwofeetindiameter。ThegrandoldMosibe,atreeyieldingabeanwithathinredpellicle,saidtobeveryfattening,hadprobablyseentwohundredsummers。Dr。KirkfoundthattheMosibeispeculiar,inbeingalliedtoaspeciesmetwithonlyintheWestIndies。TheMotsikiri,sometimescalledMafuta,yieldsahardfat,andanoilwhichisexportedfromInhambane。ItissaidthattwoancientBatokatravellerswentdownasfarastheLoangwa,andfindingtheMacaatree(jujubeorzisyphus)infruit,carriedtheseedallthewaybacktothegreatFalls,inordertoplantthem。Twoofthesetreesarestilltobeseenthere,theonlyspecimensofthekindinthatregion。 TheBatokahadmadeanearapproachtothecustomofmorerefinednationsandhadpermanentgraveyards,eitheronthesidesofhills,thusrenderedsacred,orunderlargeoldshadytrees;theyreverencethetombsoftheirancestors,andplantthelargestelephants\'tusks,asmonumentsattheheadofthegrave,orentirelyencloseitwiththechoicestivory。Someoftheothertribesthrowthedeadbodyintotherivertobedevouredbycrocodiles,or,sewingitupinamat,placeitonthebranchofabaobab,orcastitinsomelonelygloomyspot,surroundedbydensetropicalvegetation,whereitaffordsamealtothefoulhyenas;buttheBatokareverentlyburytheirdead,andregardthespothenceforthassacred。TheordealbythepoisonofthemuaveisresortedtobytheBatoka,aswellasbytheothertribes;butacockisoftenmadetostandproxyforthesupposedwitch。NeartheconfluenceoftheKafuetheMambo,orchief,withsomeofhisheadmen,cametooursleeping-placewithapresent;theirforeheadsweresmearedwithwhiteflour,andanunusualseriousnessmarkedtheirdemeanour。Shortlybeforeourarrivaltheyhadbeenaccusedofwitchcraft;consciousofinnocence,theyacceptedtheordeal,andundertooktodrinkthepoisonedmuave。 ForthispurposetheymadeajourneytothesacredhillofNchomokela,onwhichreposethebodiesoftheirancestors;and,afterasolemnappealtotheunseenspiritstoattesttheinnocenceoftheirchildren,theyswallowedthemuave,vomited,andwerethereforedeclarednotguilty。Itisevidentthattheybelievethatthesoulhasacontinuedexistence;andthatthespiritsofthedepartedknowwhatthosetheyhaveleftbehindthemaredoing,andarepleasedornotaccordingastheirdeedsaregoodorevil;thisbeliefisuniversal。Theownerofalargecanoerefusedtosellit,becauseitbelongedtothespiritofhisfather,whohelpedhimwhenhekilledthehippopotamus。Another,whenthebargainforhiscanoewasnearlycompleted,seeingalargeserpentonabranchofthetreeoverhead,refusedtocompletethesale,allegingthatthiswasthespiritofhisfathercometoprotestagainstit。 SomeoftheBatokachiefsmusthavebeenmenofconsiderableenterprise;thelandofone,inthewesternpartofthiscountry,wasprotectedbytheZambesiontheS。,andontheN。andE。layanimpassablereedymarsh,filledwithwateralltheyearround,leavingonlyhiswesternborderopentoinvasion:heconceivedtheideaofdiggingabroadanddeepcanalnearlyamileinlength,fromthereedymarshtotheZambesi,and,havingactuallycarriedtheschemeintoexecution,heformedalargeisland,onwhichhiscattlegrazedinsafety,andhiscornripenedfromyeartoyearsecurefromallmarauders。 Anotherchief,whodiedanumberofyearsago,believedthathehaddiscoveredaremedyfortsetse-bittencattle;hissonMoyarashowedusaplant,whichwasnewtoourbotanist,andlikewisetoldushowthemedicinewasprepared;thebarkoftheroot,and,whatmightpleaseourhomoeopathicfriends,adozenofthetsetsearedried,andgroundtogetherintoafinepowder。Thismixtureisadministeredinternally;andthecattlearefumigatedbyburningunderthemtherestoftheplantcollected。Thetreatmentmustbecontinuedforweeks,wheneverthesymptomsofpoisonappear。Thismedicine,hefranklyadmitted,wouldnotcureallthebittencattle。\"For,\"saidhe,\"cattle,andmentoo,dieinspiteofmedicine;butshouldaherdbyaccidentstrayintoatsetsedistrictandbebitten,bythismedicineofmyfather,Kampa-kampa,someofthemcouldbesaved,while,withoutit,allwouldinevitablydie。”Hestipulatedthatwewerenottoshowthemedicinetootherpeople,andifeverweneededitinthisregionwemustemployhim;butifwewerefaroffwemightmakeitourselves;andwhenwesawitcurethecattlethinkofhim,andsendhimapresent。 Ourmenmadeitknowneverywherethatwewishedthetribestoliveinpeace,andwoulduseourinfluencetoinduceSekeletutopreventtheBatokaofMoshobotwaneandtheMakololounder-chiefsmakingforaysintotheircountry:theyhadalreadysufferedseverely,andtheirremonstranceswiththeircountryman,Moshobotwane,evokedonlytheanswer,\"TheMakololohavegivenmeaspear;whyshouldInotuseit?\"He,indeed,itwaswho,beingremarkablyswiftoffoot,firstguidedtheMakololointheirconquestofthecountry。Inthecharacterofpeacemakers,therefore,weexperiencedabundanthospitality;and,fromtheKafuetotheFalls,noneofourpartywasallowedtosufferhunger。Thenativessenttooursleeping-placesgenerouspresentsofthefinestwhitemeal,andfatcaponstogiveitarelish,greatpotsofbeertocomfortourhearts,togetherwithpumpkins,beans,andtobacco,sothatwe\"shouldsleepneitherhungrynorthirsty。” IntravellingfromtheKafuetotheZungwewefrequentlypassedseveralvillagesinthecourseofaday\'smarch。Intheeveningcamedeputiesfromthevillages,atwhichwecouldnotstaytosleep,withliberalpresentsoffood。Itwouldhavepainedthemtohaveallowedstrangerstopasswithoutpartakingoftheirhospitality;repeatedlywerewehailedfromhuts,andaskedtowaitamomentanddrinkalittleofthebeer,whichwasbroughtwithalacrity。Ourmarchresembledatriumphantprocession。Weenteredandlefteveryvillageamidstthecheersofitsinhabitants;themenclappingtheirhands,andthewomenlullilooing,withtheshrillcall,\"Letussleep,\"or\"Peace。”Passingthroughahamletoneday,ourguidecalledtothepeople,\"Whydoyounotclapyourhandsandsalutewhenyouseemenwhoarewishingtobringpeacetotheland?\"Whenwehaltedforthenightitwasnouncommonthingforthepeopletoprepareourcampentirelyoftheirownaccord;somewithhoesquicklysmoothedthegroundforourbeds,othersbroughtdriedgrassandspreaditcarefullyoverthespot;somewiththeirsmallaxesspeedilymadeabushfencetoshieldusfromthewind;andif,asoccasionallyhappened, thewaterwasalittledistanceoff,othershastenedandbroughtitwithfirewoodtocookourfoodwith。Theyareanindustriouspeople,andveryfondofagriculture。Forhourstogetherwemarchedthroughunbrokenfieldsofmapira,ornativecorn,ofagreatwidth;butonecangivenoideaoftheextentoflandunderthehoeascomparedwithanyEuropeancountry。Theextentofsurfaceissogreatthatthelargestfieldsunderculture,whenviewedonawidelandscape,dwindletomerespots。Whentakeninconnectionwiththewantsofthepeople,thecultivationonthewholeismostcreditabletotheirindustry。Theyerectnumerousgranarieswhichgivetheirvillagestheappearanceofbeinglarge;and,whenthewateroftheZambesihassubsided,theyplacelargequantitiesofgrain,tiedupinbundlesofgrass,andwellplasteredoverwithclay,onlowsandislandsforprotectionfromtheattacksofmaraudingmiceandmen。 Owingtotheravagesoftheweevil,thenativecorncanhardlybepreserveduntilthefollowingcropcomesin。Howeverlargelytheymaycultivate,andhoweverabundanttheharvest,itmustallbeconsumedinayear。Thismayaccountfortheirmakingsomuchofitintobeer。ThebeertheseBatokaorBawebrewisnotthesourandintoxicatingboalaorpombefoundamongsomeothertribes,butsweet,andhighlynutritive,withonlyaslightdegreeofacidity,sufficienttorenderitapleasantdrink。Thepeoplewereallplump,andingoodcondition;andweneversawasinglecaseofintoxicationamongthem,thoughalldrankabundanceofthisliting,orsweetbeer。 Bothmenandboyswereeagertoworkforverysmallpay。Ourmencouldhireanynumberofthemtocarrytheirburdensforafewbeadsaday。Ourmiserlyanddirtyex-cookhadanoldpairoftrousersthatsomeonehadgiventohim;afterhehadlongwornthemhimself,withoneofthesorelydecayedlegshehiredamantocarryhisheavyloadawholeday;asecondmancarrieditthenextdayfortheotherleg,andwhatremainedoftheoldgarment,withoutthebuttons,procuredthelabourofanothermanforthethirdday。 MenofremarkableabilityhaverisenupamongtheAfricansfromtimetotime,asamongstotherportionsofthehumanfamily。Somehaveattractedtheattention,andexcitedtheadmirationoflargedistrictsbytheirwisdom。Others,apparentlybythepowersofventriloquism,orbypeculiardexterityinthrowingthespear,orshootingwiththebow,havebeenthewonderoftheirgeneration;butthetotalabsenceofliteratureleadstothelossofallformerexperience,andthewisdomofthewisehasnotbeenhandeddown。 Theyhavehadtheirminstrelstoo,butmeretraditionpreservesnottheireffusions。Oneofthese,andapparentlyagenuinepoet,attachedhimselftoourpartyforseveraldays,andwheneverwehalted,sangourpraisestothevillagers,insmoothandharmoniousnumbers。Itwasasortofblankverse,andeachlineconsistedoffivesyllables。Thesongwasshortwhenitfirstbegan,buteachdayhepickedupmoreinformationaboutus,andaddedtothepoemuntilourpraisesbecameanodeofrespectablelength。Whendistancefromhomecompelledhisreturnheexpressedhisregretatleavingus,andwas,ofcourse,paidforhisusefulandpleasantflatteries。 Another,thoughalessgiftedsonofsong,belongedtotheBatokaofourownparty。Everyevening,whiletheotherswerecooking,talking,orsleeping,herehearsedhissongs,containingahistoryofeverythinghehadseeninthelandofthewhitemen,andonthewayback。Incomposing,extempore,anynewpiece,hewasneverataloss;foriftherightworddidnotcomehehaltednot,butekedoutthemeasurewithapeculiarmusicalsoundmeaningnothingatall。Heaccompaniedhisrecitationsonthesansa,aninstrumentfiguredinthewoodcut,thenineironkeysofwhichareplayedwiththethumbs,whilethefingerspassbehindtoholdit。Thehollowendandornamentsfacethebreastoftheplayer。Personsofamusicalturn,iftoopoortobuyasansa,maybeseenplayingvigorouslyonaninstrumentmadewithanumberofthickcorn-stalkssewntogether,asasansaframe,andkeysofsplitbamboo,which,thoughmakingbutlittlesound,seemstosoothetheplayerhimself。Whentheinstrumentisplayedwithacalabashasasoundingboard,itemitsagreatervolumeofsound。Piecesofshellsandtinareaddedtomakeajinglingaccompaniment,andthecalabashisalsoornamented。 Afterwehadpassedup,apartyofslaves,belongingtothetwonativePortuguesewhoassassinatedthechief,Mpangwe,andtookpossessionofhislandsatZumbo,followedonourfootsteps,andrepresentingthemselvestobeour\"children,\"boughtgreatquantitiesofivoryfromtheBawe,forafewcoarsebeadsatusk。Theyalsopurchasedtenlargenewcanoestocarryit,attherateofsixstringsofredorwhitebeads,ortwofathomsofgreycalico,foreachcanoe,and,atthesamecheaprate,anumberofgood-lookinggirls。 CHAPTERVII。 TheVictoriaFallsoftheZambesi——MarvellousgrandeuroftheCataracts——TheMakololo\'stown——TheChiefSekeletu。 DuringthetimeweremainedatMotuntaasplendidmeteorwasobservedtolightenthewholeheavens。Theobserver\'sbackwasturnedtoit,butonlookingroundthestreakoflightwasseentoremainonitspathsomeseconds。Thisstreakisusuallyexplainedtobeonlythecontinuanceoftheimpressionmadebytheshiningbodyontheretina。 Thiscannotbe,asinthiscasethemeteorwasnotactuallyseenandyetthestreakwasclearlyperceived。Theraysofplanetsandstarsalsorequireanotherexplanationthanthatusuallygiven。 Fruit-treesandgiganticwildfig-trees,andcirclesofstonesonwhichcornsafeswereplaced,withworngrindstones,pointoutwherethevillagesoncestood。TheonlyreasonnowassignedforthisfinecountryremainingdesolateisthefearoffreshvisitationsbytheMatebele。ThecountrynowslopesgraduallytothewestintotheMakololoValley。Twodays\'marchfromtheBatokavillagenearestthehighlands,wemetwithsomehunterswhowereburningthedrygrass,inordertoattractthegamebythefreshvegetationwhichspeedilyspringsupafterwards。Thegrass,asalreadyremarked,isexcellentforcattle。Onespecies,withleaveshavingfinelyserratededges,andofareddish-browncolour,wenoticedourmeneating:ittastesexactlylikeliquorice-root,andisnamedkezu-kezu。Thetsetse,knowntotheBatokabythename\"ndoka,\"doesnotexisthere,thoughbuffaloesandelephantsabound。 Asmalltrapinthepath,baitedwithamouse,tocatchspottedcats(F。Genetta),isusuallythefirstindicationthatwearedrawingneartoavillage;butwhenwegetwithinthesoundsofpoundingcorn,cockcrowing,orthemerryshoutsofchildrenatplay,weknowthatthehutsarebutafewyardsoff,thoughthetreesconcealthemfromview。Wereached,onthe4thofAugust,Moachemba,thefirstoftheBatokavillageswhichnowoweallegiancetoSekeletu,andcouldseedistinctlywiththenakedeye,inthegreatvalleyspreadoutbeforeus,thecolumnsofvapourrisingfromtheVictoriaFalls,thoughupwardsof20milesdistant。Wewereinformedthat,therainshavingfailedthisyear,thecorncropshadbeenlost,andgreatscarcityandmuchhungerprevailedfromSesheketoLinyanti。SomeofthereportswhichthemenhadheardfromtheBatokaofthehillsconcerningtheirfamilies,werehereconfirmed。Takelang\'swifehadbeenkilledbyMashotlane,theheadmanattheFalls,onacharge,asusual,ofwitchcraft。Inchikola\'stwowives,believinghimtobedead,hadmarriedagain;andMasakasawasintenselydisgustedtohearthattwoyearsagohisfriends,uponareportofhisdeath,threwhisshieldovertheFalls,slaughteredallhisoxen,andheldaspeciesofwildIrishwake,inhonourofhismemory:hesaidhemeanttodisownthem,andtosay,whentheycometosalutehim,\"Iamdead。I amnothere。Ibelongtoanotherworld,andshouldstinkifIcameamongyou。” Allthesadnewswehadpreviouslyheard,ofthedisastrousresultswhichfollowedtheattemptofapartyofmissionaries,undertheRev。