Onourlandpartycomingup,weweretoldthattheoxenwerebittenbythetsetse:theycouldseeagreatdifferenceintheirlooks。
Onewasalreadyeaten,andtheynowwishedtoslaughteranother。A
thirdfellintoabuffalo-pitnextday,soourstockwassoonreduced。
TheBatokachief,Moshobotwane,againtreateduswithhisusualhospitality,givingusanox,somemeal,andmilk。WetookanotherviewofthegrandMosi-oa-tunya,andplantedaquantityofseedsinthegardenontheisland;but,asnoonewillrenewthehedge,thehippopotamiwill,doubtless,soondestroywhatweplanted。
Mashotlaneassistedus。Somuchpowerwasallowedtothisunder-
chief,thatheappearedasifhehadcastofftheauthorityofSekeletualtogether。Hedidnotshowmuchcourtesytohismessengers;insteadofgivingthemfood,asiscustomary,hetookthemeatoutofapotintheirpresence,andhandedittohisownfollowers。ThismayhavebeenbecauseSekeletu\'smenboreanordertohimtoremovetoLinyanti。HehadnotonlyinsultedBaldwin,buthadalsodrivenawaytheGriquatraders;butthismayallendinnothing。Someofthenativeshere,andatSesheke,knowafewofthelowtricksofmorecivilizedtraders。Apotofmilkwasbroughttousoneevening,whichwasmoreindebtedtotheZambesithantoanycow。Basketsoffine-lookingwhitemeal,elsewhere,hadoccasionallythelowerhalffilledwithbran。Eggsarealwaysaperilousinvestment。Thenativeideaofagoodeggdiffersaswidelyfromourownasispossibleonsuchatriflingsubject。Aneggiseatenherewithapparentrelish,thoughanembryochickbeinside。
WeleftMosi-oa-tunyaonthe27th,andsleptclosetothevillageofBakwini。Itisbuiltonaridgeoflooseredsoil,whichproducesgreatcropsofmapiraandground-nuts;manymagnificentmosibe-treesstandnearthevillage。Machimisi,theheadmanofthevillage,possessesaherdofcattleandalargeheart;hekeptuscompanyforacoupleofdaystoguideusonourway。
WehadheardagooddealofastrongholdsomemilesbelowtheFalls,calledKalunda。OurreturnpathwasmuchnearertheZambesithanthatofourascent,——infact,asnearastheroughcountrywouldallow,——butweleftittwicebeforewereachedSinamane\'s,inordertoseeKalundaandaFallcalledMoomba,orMoamba。TheMakololohadoncedispossessedtheBatokaofKalunda,butwecouldnotseethefissure,orwhateveritis,thatrendereditaplaceofsecurity,asitwasonthesouthernbank。ThecrackoftheGreatFallswasherecontinued:therocksarethesameasfurtherup,butperhapslessweather-worn——andnowpartiallystratifiedingreatthickmasses。
Thecountrythroughwhichweweretravellingwascoveredwithacindery-lookingvolcanictufa,andmightbecalled\"Katakaumena。”
ThedescriptionwereceivedoftheMoambaFallsseemedtopromisesomethinggrand。Theyweresaidtosendup\"smoke\"inthewetseason,likeMosi-oa-tunya;butwhenwelookeddownintothecleft,inwhichthedark-greennarrowriverstillrolls,wesaw,about800
or1000feetbelowus,what,afterMosi-oa-tunya,seemedtwoinsignificantcataracts。ItwasevidentthatPitsane,observingourdelightattheVictoriaFalls,wishedtoincreaseourpleasurebyasecondwonder。OneMosi-oa-tunya,however,isquiteenoughforacontinent。
WehadnowanopportunityofseeingmoreoftheBatoka,thanwehadonthehighlandroutetoournorth。Theydidnotwaittilltheeveningbeforeofferingfoodtothestrangers。Theagedwifeoftheheadmanofahamlet,wherewerestedatmidday,atoncekindledafire,andputonthecooking-pottomakeporridge。Bothmenandwomenaretobedistinguishedbygreaterroundnessoffeaturethantheothernatives,andthecustomofknockingouttheupperfrontteethgivesatonceadistinctivecharactertotheface。Theircolouratteststhegreateraltitudeofthecountryinwhichmanyofthemformerlylived。Some,however,areasdarkastheBashubiaandBarotseofthegreatvalleytotheirwest,inwhichstandsSesheke,formerlythecapitaloftheBalui,orBashubia。
Theassertionmayseemstrange,yetitisnonethelesstrue,thatinallthetribeswehavevisitedweneversawareallyblackperson。
Differentshadesofbrownprevail,andoftenwithabrightbronzetint,whichnopainter,exceptMr。Angus,seemsabletocatch。Thosewhoinhabitelevated,drysituations,andwhoarenotobligedtoworkmuchinthesun,arefrequentlyofalightwarmbrown,\"darkbutcomely。”Darknessofcolourisprobablypartlycausedbythesun,andpartlybysomethingintheclimateorsoilwhichwedonotyetknow。Weseesomethingofthesamesortintroutandotherfishwhichtaketheircolourfromthepondsorstreamsinwhichtheylive。
ThemembersofourpartyweremuchlessembrownedbyfreeexposuretothesunforyearsthanDr。LivingstoneandhisfamilywerebypassingoncefromKurumantoCapeTown,ajourneywhichoccupiedonlyacoupleofmonths。
WeencampedontheKalomo,onthe1stofOctober,andfoundtheweatherverymuchwarmerthanwhenwecrossedthisstreaminAugust。
At3p。m。thethermometer,fourfeetfromtheground,was101degreesintheshade;thewetbulbonly61degrees:adifferenceof40
degrees。Yet,notwithstandingthisextremedrynessoftheatmosphere,withoutadropofrainhavingfallenformonths,andscarcelyanydew,manyoftheshrubsandtreeswereputtingforthfreshleavesofvarioushues,whileothersmadeaprofusedisplayoflovelyblossoms。
Twooldandverysavagebuffaloeswereshotforourcompanionsonthe3rdOctober。OurVolunteersmayfeelaninterestinknowingthatballssometimeshavebutlittleeffect:onebuffalofell,onreceivingaJacob\'sshell;itwashitagaintwice,andlostalargeamountofblood;andyetitsprangup,andchargedanative,who,bygreatagility,hadjusttimetoclimbatree,beforethemaddenedbeaststruckit,battering-ramfashion,hardenoughalmosttohavesplitbothheadandtree。Itpausedafewseconds——drewbackseveralpaces——glaredupattheman——andthendashedatthetreeagainandagain,asifdeterminedtoshakehimoutofit。IttooktwomoreJacob\'sshells,andfiveotherlargesolidrifle-ballstofinishthebeastatlast。Theseoldsurlybuffaloeshadbeenwanderingaboutinasortofmiserablefellowship;theirskinswerediseasedandscabby,asifleprous,andtheirhornsatrophiedorworndowntostumps——thefirstwaskilledoutright,byoneJacob\'sshell,theseconddiedhard。Thereissomuchdifferenceinthetenacityoflifeinwoundedanimalsofthesamespecies,thattheinquiryissuggestedwheretheseatoflifecanbe?——Wehaveseenabuffalolivelongenough,afteralargebullethadpassedrightthroughtheheart,toallowfirmadherentclotstobeformedinthetwoholes。
Oneday\'sjourneyaboveSinamane\'s,amassofmountaincalledGorongue,orGolongwe,issaidtocrosstheriver,andtherentthroughwhichtheriverpassesis,bynativereport,quitefearfultobehold。Thecountryrounditissorocky,thatourcompanionsdreadedthefatigue,andwerenotmuchtoblame,if,asisprobablythecase,thewaybeworsethanthatoverwhichwetravelled。Aswetrudgedalongovertheblackslag-likerocks,thealmostleaflesstreesaffordingnoshade,theheatwasquiteasgreatasEuropeanscouldbear。Itwas102degreesintheshade,andathermometerplacedunderthetongueorarmpitshowedthatourbloodwas99。5
degrees,or1。5degreeshotterthanthatofthenatives,whichstoodat98degrees。Ourshoes,however,enableustopassoverthehotburningsoilbetterthantheycan。Manyofthosewhowearsandalshavecornsonthesidesofthefeet,andontheheels,wherethestrapspass。Wehaveseeninstances,too,whereneithersandalsnorshoeswereworn,ofcornsonthesolesofthefeet。Itis,moreover,notatalluncommontoseetoescockedup,asifpressedoutoftheirproperplaces;athome,weshouldhaveunhesitatinglyascribedthistotheviciousfashionsperverselyfollowedbyourshoemakers。
Onthe5th,aftercrossingsomehills,werestedatthevillageofSimariango。Thebellowsoftheblacksmithhereweresomewhatdifferentfromthecommongoatskinbags,andmorelikethoseseeninMadagascar。Theyconsistedoftwowoodenvessels,likealady\'sbandboxofsmalldimensions,theupperendsofwhichwerecoveredwithleather,andlookedsomethingliketheheadsofdrums,exceptthattheleatherbaggedinthecentre。Theywerefittedwithlongnozzles,throughwhichtheairwasdrivenbyworkingtheloosecoveringofthetopsupanddownbymeansofasmallpieceofwoodattachedtotheircentres。Theblacksmithsaidthattinwasobtainedfromapeopleinthenorth,calledMarendi,andthathehadmadeitintobracelets;wehadneverheardbeforeoftinbeingfoundinthecountry。
Ourcoursethenlaydownthebedofarivulet,calledMapatizia,inwhichtherewasmuchcalcspar,withcalcareousschist,andthentheTettegreysandstone,whichusuallyoverliescoal。Onthe6thwearrivedattheisletChilombe,belongingtoSinamane,wheretheZambesirunsbroadandsmoothagain,andwerewellreceivedbySinamanehimself。NeverwasSundaymorewelcometothewearythanthis,thelastweweretospendwithourconvoy。
Wenowsawmanygood-lookingyoungmenandwomen。ThedressesoftheladiesareidenticalwiththoseofNubianwomeninUpperEgypt。Toabeltonthewaistagreatnumberofstringsareattachedtohangallroundtheperson。Thesefringesareaboutsixoreightincheslong。
Thematronswearinadditionaskincutlikethetailsofthecoateeformerlywornbyourdragoons。Theyoungergirlswearthewaist-beltexhibitedinthewoodcut,ornamentedwithshells,andhavethefringesonlyinfront。MaraudingpartiesofBatoka,callingthemselvesMakololo,haveforsometimehadawholesomedreadofSinamane\'s\"longspears。”BeforegoingtoTetteourBatokafriend,Masakasa,wasoneofapartythatcametostealsomeoftheyoungwomen;butSinamane,totheirutterastonishment,attackedthemsofuriouslythatthesurvivorsbarelyescapedwiththeirlives。
Masakasahadtofleesofastthathethrewawayhisshield,hisspear,andhisclothes,andreturnedhomeawiserandasadderman。
Sinamane\'speoplecultivatelargequantitiesoftobacco,whichtheymanufactureintoballsfortheMakololomarket。Twentyballs,weighingaboutthree-quartersofapoundeach,aresoldforahoe。
ThetobaccoisplantedonlowmoistspotsonthebanksoftheZambesi;andwasinfloweratthetimewewerethere,inOctober。
Sinamane\'speopleappeartohaveabundanceoffood,andareallingoodcondition。Hecouldsellusonlytwoofhiscanoes;butlentusthreemoretocarryusasfarasMoemba\'s,wherehethoughtothersmightbepurchased。Theyweremannedbyhisowncanoe-men,whoweretobringthemback。Theriverisabout250yardswide,andflowsserenelybetweenhighbankstowardstheNorth-east。BelowSinamane\'sthebanksareoftenworndownfiftyfeet,andcomposedofshingleandgravelofigneousrocks,sometimessetinaferruginousmatrix。Thebottomisallgravelandshingle,howformedwecannotimagine,unlessinpot-holesinthedeepfissureabove。ThebottomabovetheFalls,saveafewrocksclosebythem,isgenerallysandyorofsofttufa。Everydampspotiscoveredwithmaize,pumpkins,water-melons,tobacco,andhemp。ThereisaprettynumerousBatokapopulationonbothsidesoftheriver。Aswesailedslowlydown,thepeoplesalutedusfromthebanks,byclappingtheirhands。Aheadmanevenhailedus,andbroughtagenerouspresentofcornandpumpkins。
Moembaownsarichisland,calledMosanga,amileinlength,onwhichhisvillagestands。Hehasthereputationofbeingabravewarrior,andiscertainlyagreattalker;buthegaveusstrangerssomethingbetterthanastreamofwords。Wereceivedahandsomepresentofcorn,andthefattestgoatwehadeverseen;itresembledmutton。
Hispeoplewereasliberalastheirchief。Theybroughttwolargebasketsofcorn,andalotoftobacco,asasortofgeneralcontributiontothetravellers。OneofSinamane\'scanoe-men,aftertryingtogethispay,desertedhere,andwentbackbeforethestipulatedtime,withthestory,thattheEnglishmanhadstolenthecanoes。Shortlyaftersunrisenextmorning,Sinamanecameintothevillagewithfiftyofhis\"longspears,\"evidentlydeterminedtoretakehispropertybyforce;hesawataglancethathismanhaddeceivedhim。Moembaralliedhimforcomingonawildgoosechase。
\"Hereareyourcanoesleftwithme,yourmenhaveallbeenpaid,andtheEnglishmenarenowaskingmetosellmycanoes。”Sinamanesaidlittletous;onlyobservingthathehadbeendeceivedbyhisfollower。Asingleremarkofhischief\'scausedthefoolishfellowtoleavesuddenly,evidentlymuchfrightenedandcrestfallen。
Sinamanehadbeenverykindtous,and,ashewaslookingonwhenwegaveourpresenttoMoemba,wemadehimalsoanadditionalofferingofsomebeads,andpartedgoodfriends。Moemba,havingheardthatwehadcalledthepeopleofSinamanetogethertotellthemaboutourSaviour\'smissiontoman,andtopraywiththem,associatedtheideaofSundaywiththemeeting,and,beforeanythingofthesortwasproposed,cameandaskedthatheandhispeoplemightbe\"sundayed\"
aswellashisneighbours;andbegivenalittleseedwheat,andfruit-treeseeds;withwhichrequestofcourseweverywillinglycomplied。TheideaofprayingdirecttotheSupremeBeing,thoughnotquitenewtoall,seemstostriketheirmindssoforciblythatitwillnotbeforgotten。SinamanesaidthatheprayedtoGod,Morungo,andmadedrink-offeringstohim。Thoughhehadheardofus,hehadneverseenwhitemenbefore。
Beautifulcrownedcranes,namedfromtheirnote\"ma-wang,\"wereseendaily,andwerebeginningtopair。Largeflocksofspur-wingedgeese,ormachikwe,werecommon。ThisgooseissaidtolayhereggsinMarch。WesawalsopairsofEgyptiangeese,aswellasafewoftheknob-nosed,or,astheyarecalledinIndia,combedgeese。WhentheEgyptiangeese,asatthepresenttime,haveyoung,thegoslingskeepsosteadilyinthewakeoftheirmother,thattheylookasiftheywereapartofhertail;andbothparents,whenonland,simulatelamenessquiteaswellasourplovers,todrawoffpursuers。
Theostrichalsoadoptsthelapwingfashion,butnoquadrupedsdo:
theyshowfighttodefendtheiryounginstead。Insomeplacesthesteepbanksweredottedwiththeholeswhichleadintothenestsofbee-eaters。Thesebirdscameoutinhundredsaswepassed。Whenthered-breastedspeciessettleonthetrees,theygivethemtheappearanceofbeingcoveredwithredfoliage。
Onthemorningofthe12thOctoberwepassedthroughawild,hillycountry,withfinewoodedsceneryonbothsides,butthinlyinhabited。Thelargesttreeswereusuallythornyacacias,ofgreatsizeandbeautifulforms。Aswesailedbyseveralvillageswithouttouching,thepeoplebecamealarmed,andranalongthebanks,spearsinhand。WeemployedonetogoforwardandtellMpandeofourcoming。Thisallayedtheirfears,andwewentashore,andtookbreakfastnearthelargeislandwithtwovillagesonit,oppositethemouthoftheZungwe,wherewehadlefttheZambesionourwayup。
Mpandewassorrythathehadnocanoesofhisowntosell,buthewouldlendustwo。Hegaveuscookedpumpkinsandawater-melon。
Hisservanthadlateralcurvatureofthespine。Wehaveoftenseencasesofhumpback,butthiswastheonlycaseofthiskindofcurvaturewehadmetwith。Mpandeaccompaniedushimselfinhisownvessel,tillwehadanopportunityofpurchasingafinelargecanoeelsewhere。Wepaidwhatwasconsideredalargepriceforit:twelvestringsofbluecutglassneckbeads,anequalnumberoflargeblueonesofthesizeofmarbles,andtwoyardsofgreycalico。Hadthebeadsbeencoarser,theywouldhavebeenmorevalued,becausesuchwereinfashion。Beforeconcludingthebargaintheownersaid\"hisbowelsyearnedforhiscanoe,andwemustgivealittlemoretostoptheiryearning。”Thiswasirresistible。ThetradingpartyofSequasha,whichwenowmet,hadpurchasedtenlargenewcanoesforsixstringsofcheapcoarsewhitebeadseach,ortheirequivalent,fouryardsofcalico,andhadboughtforthemeresttrifleivoryenoughtoloadthemall。Theyweredrivingatradeinslavesalso,whichwassomethingnewinthispartofAfrica,andlikelysoontochangethecharacteroftheinhabitants。Thesemenhadbeenlivinginclover,andwereuncommonlyfatandplump。Whensenttotrade,slaveswiselyneverstintthemselvesofbeeroranythingelse,whichtheirmaster\'sgoodscanbuy。
ThetemperatureoftheZambesihadincreased10degreessinceAugust,beingnow80degrees。Theairwasashighas96degreesaftersunset;and,thevicinityofthewaterbeingthecoolestpart,weusuallymadeourbedsclosebytheriver\'sbrink,thoughthereindangerofcrocodiles。AfricadiffersfromIndiaintheairalwaysbecomingcoolandrefreshinglongbeforethesunreturns,andtherecanbenodoubtthatwecaninthiscountrybearexposuretothesun,whichwouldbefatalinIndia。ItisprobablyowingtothegreaterdrynessoftheAfricanatmospherethatsunstrokeissorarelymetwith。Intwenty-twoyearsDr。Livingstonenevermetorheardofasinglecase,thoughtheprotectivehead-dressesofIndiaarerarelyseen。
Whenthewaterisnearlyatitslowest,weoccasionallymeetwithsmallrapidswhichareprobablynotinexistenceduringtherestoftheyear。HavingsleptoppositetherivuletBume,whichcomesfromthesouth,wepassedtheislandofNakansalo,andwentdowntherapidsofthesamenameonthe17th,andcameonthemorningofthe19thtothemoreseriousonesofNakabele,attheentrancetoKariba。
TheMakolologuidedthecanoesadmirablythroughtheopeninginthedyke。Whenweenteredthegorgewecameonupwardsofthirtyhippopotami:abankneartheentrancestretchestwo-thirdsacrossthenarrowedriver,andinthestillplacebehindittheywereswimmingabout。Severalwereinthechannel,andourcanoe-menwereafraidtoventuredownamongthem,because,astheyaffirm,thereiscommonlyanill-naturedoneinaherd,whichtakesamalignantpleasureinupsettingcanoes。Twoorthreeboysontherocksoppositeamusedthemselvesbythrowingstonesatthefrightenedanimals,andhitseveralonthehead。Itwouldhavebeennodifficultmattertohaveshotthewholeherd。Wefiredafewshotstodrivethemoff;theballsoftenglanceofftheskull,andnomoreharmisdonethanwhenaschoolboygetsabloodynose;wekilledone,whichfloatedawaydowntherapidcurrent,followedbyanumberofmenonthebank。Anativecalledtousfromtheleftbank,andsaidthatamanonhissideknewhowtopraytotheKaribagods,andadvisedustohirehimtoprayforoursafety,whileweweregoingdowntherapids,orweshouldcertainlyallbedrowned。NooneeverriskedhislifeinKaribawithoutfirstpayingtheriver-doctor,orpriest,forhisprayers。Ourmenaskediftherewasacataractinfront,buthedeclinedgivinganyinformation;theywerenotonhissideoftheriver;iftheywouldcomeover,thenhemightbeabletotellthem。Wecrossed,buthewentofftothevillage。WethenlandedandwalkedoverthehillstohavealookatKarababeforetrustingourcanoesinit。Thecurrentwasstrong,andtherewasbrokenwaterinsomeplaces,butthechannelwasnearlystraight,andhadnocataract,sowedeterminedtoriskit。Ourmenvisitedthevillagewhileweweregone,andweretreatedtobeerandtobacco。
Thepriestwhoknowshowtopraytothegodthatrulestherapidsfolloweduswithseveralofhisfriends,andtheywererathersurprisedtoseeuspassdowninsafety,withouttheaidofhisintercession。Thenativeswhofollowedthedeadhippopotamuscaughtitacoupleofmilesbelow,and,havingmadeitfasttoarock,weresittingwaitingforusonthebankbesidethedeadanimal。Astherewasaconsiderablecurrentthere,andtherockybankswereunfitforourbeds,wetookthehippopotamusintow,tellingthevillagerstofollow,andwewouldgivethemmostofthemeat。Thecrocodilestuggedsohardatthecarcass,thatweweresoonobligedtocastitadrift,tofloatdowninthecurrent,toavoidupsettingthecanoe。
Wehadtogoonsofarbeforefindingasuitablespottospendthenightin,thatthenativesconcludedwedidnotintendtosharethemeatwiththem,andreturnedtothevillage。Weslepttwonightsattheplacewherethehippopotamuswascutup。Thecrocodileshadabusytimeofitinthedark,tearingawayatwhatwasleftintheriver,andthrashingthewaterfuriouslywiththeirpowerfultails。
ThehillsonbothsidesofKaribaaremuchlikethoseofKebrabasa,thestratatiltedandtwistedineverydirection,withnolevelground。
AlthoughthehillsconfinetheZambesiwithinanarrowchannelforanumberofmiles,therearenorapidsbeyondthoseneartheentrance。
Theriverissmoothandapparentlyverydeep。Onlyonesinglehumanbeingwasseeninthegorge,thecountrybeingtooroughforculture。
Somerocksinthewater,neartheoutletofKariba,atadistancelooklikeafort;andsuchlargemassesdislocated,bent,andeventwistedtoaremarkabledegree,atonceattestsometremendousupheavingandconvulsiveactionofnature,whichprobablycausedKebrabasa,Kariba,andtheVictoriaFallstoassumetheirpresentforms;ittookplaceaftertheformationofthecoal,thatmineralhavingthenbeentiltedup。Wehaveprobablynothingequaltoitinthepresentquietoperationsofnature。
Onemergingwepitchedourcampbyasmallstream,thePendele,afewmilesbelowthegorge。ThePalabimountainstandsonthewesternsideofthelowerendoftheKaribastrait;therangetowhichitbelongscrossestheriver,andrunstothesouth-east。Chikumbula,ahospitableoldheadman,underNchomokela,theparamountchiefofalargedistrict,whomwedidnotsee,broughtusnextmorningagreatbasketofmeal,andfourfowls,withsomebeer,andacakeofsalt,\"tomakeittastegood。”Chikumbulasaidthattheelephantsplaguedthem,byeatingupthecotton-plants;buthispeopleseemtobewelloff。
Afewdaysbeforewecame,theycaughtthreebuffaloesinpitfallsinonenight,and,unabletoeatthemall,leftonetorot。Duringthenightthewindchangedandblewfromthedeadbuffalotooursleeping-place;andahungrylion,notatalldaintyinhisfood,stirreduptheputridmass,andgrowledandgloatedoverhisfeast,tothedisturbanceofourslumbers。Gameofallkindsisinmostextraordinaryabundance,especiallyfromthispointtobelowtheKafue,andsoitisonMoselekatso\'sside,wheretherearenoinhabitants。Thedroughtdrivesallthegametotherivertodrink。
Anhour\'swalkontherightbank,morningorevening,revealsacountryswarmingwithwildanimals:vastherdsofpallahs,manywaterbucks,koodoos,buffaloes,wildpigs,elands,zebras,andmonkeysappear;francolins,guinea-fowls,andmyriadsofturtledovesattracttheeyeinthecovers,withthefreshspoorofelephantsandrhinoceroses,whichhadbeenattheriverduringthenight。Everyfewmileswecameuponaschoolofhippopotami,asleeponsomeshallowsandbank;theirbodies,nearlyalloutofthewater,appearedlikemassesofblackrockintheriver。Whentheseanimalsarehuntedmuch,theybecomeproportionablywary,butherenohunterevertroublesthem,andtheyreposeinsecurity,alwayshowevertakingtheprecautionofsleepingjustabovethedeepchannel,intowhichtheycanplungewhenalarmed。Whenashotisfiredintoasleepingherd,allstartupontheirfeet,andstarewithpeculiarstolidlooksofhippopotamicsurprise,andwaitforanothershotbeforedashingintodeepwater。AfewmilesbelowChikumbula\'swesawawhitehippopotamusinaherd。Ourmenhadneverseenonelikeitbefore。
Itwasofapinkishwhite,exactlylikethecolouroftheAlbino。Itseemedtobethefatherofanumberofothers,forthereweremanymarkedwithlargelightpatches。Theso-calledWHITEelephantisjustsuchapinkishAlbinoasthishippopotamus。AfewmilesaboveKaribaweobservedthat,intwosmallhamlets,manyoftheinhabitantshadasimilaraffectionoftheskin。Thesameinfluenceappearedtohaveaffectedmanandbeast。Adarkcolouredhippopotamusstoodalone,asifexpelledfromtheherd,andbitthewater,shakinghisheadfromsidetosideinamostfranticmanner。
Whenthefemalehastwins,sheissaidtokilloneofthem。
Wetouchedatthebeautifultree-coveredislandofKalabi,oppositewhereTuba-mokorolecturedthelioninourwayup。Theancestorsofthepeoplewhonowinhabitthisislandpossessedcattle。Thetsetsehastakenpossessionofthecountrysince\"thebeeveswerelifted。”
Nooneknowswheretheseinsectsbreed;atacertainseasonalldisappear,andassuddenlycomeback,nooneknowswhence。Thenativesaresuchcloseobserversofnature,thattheirignoranceinthiscasesurprisedus。Asolitaryhippopotamushadselectedthelittlebayinwhichwelanded,andwherethewomendrewwater,forhisdwelling-place。Prettylittlelizards,withlightblueandredtails,runamongtherocks,catchingfliesandotherinsects。Theseharmless——thoughtonew-comersrepulsive——creaturessometimesperformgoodservicetoman,byeatinggreatnumbersofthedestructivewhiteants。
Atnoononthe24thOctober,wefoundSequashainavillagebelowtheKafue,withthemainbodyofhispeople。Hesaidthat210elephantshadbeenkilledduringhistrip;manyofhismenbeingexcellenthunters。Thenumbersofanimalswesawrendersthispossible。Hereportedthat,afterreachingtheKafue,hewentnorthwardsintothecountryoftheZulus,whoseancestorsformerlymigratedfromthesouthandsetupasortofRepublicanformofgovernment。SequashaisthegreatestPortuguesetravellerweeverbecameacquaintedwith,andheboaststhatheisabletospeakadozendifferentdialects;
yet,unfortunately,hecangivebutaverymeagreaccountofthecountriesandpeoplehehasseen,andhisstatementsarenotverymuchtobereliedon。Butconsideringtheinfluenceamongwhichhehasbeenreared,andthewantofthemeansofeducationatTette,itisawonderthathepossessesthegoodtraitsthathesometimesexhibits。AmonghiswareswereseveralcheapAmericanclocks;auselessinvestmentrather,forapartofAfricawherenoonecaresfortheartificialmeasurementoftime。TheseclocksgothimintotroubleamongtheBanyai:hesetthemallagoinginthepresenceofachief,whobecamefrightenedatthestrangesoundstheymade,andlookeduponthemassomanywitchcraftagenciesatworktobringallmannerofevilsuponhimselfandhispeople。Sequasha,itwasdecided,hadbeenguiltyofamilando,orcrime,andhehadtopayaheavyfineofclothandbeadsforhisexhibition。HealludedtoourhavingheardthathehadkilledMpangwe,andhedeniedhavingactuallydoneso;butinhisabsencehisnamehadgotmixedupintheaffair,inconsequenceofhisslaves,whiledrinkingbeeronenightwithNamakusuru,themanwhosucceededMpangwe,sayingthattheywouldkillthechiefforhim。Hispartnerhadnotthoughtofthiswhenwesawhimonthewayup,forhetriedtoexcusethemurder,bysayingthatnowtheyhadputtherightmanintothechieftainship。
Afterthreehours\'sail,onthemorningofthe29th,theriverwasnarrowedagainbythemountainsofMburuma,calledKarivua,intoonechannel,andanotherrapiddimlyappeared。Itwasformedbytwocurrentsguidedbyrockstothecentre。Ingoingdownit,themensentbySekeletubehavedverynobly。Thecanoesenteredwithoutprevioussurvey,andthehugejobblingwavesofmid-currentbeganatoncetofillthem。Withgreatpresenceofmind,andwithoutamoment\'shesitation,twomenlightenedeachbyjumpingoverboard;
theythenorderedaBotokamantodothesame,as\"thewhitemenmustbesaved。”\"Icannotswim,\"saidtheBatoka。\"Jumpout,then,andholdontothecanoe;\"whichheinstantlydid。Swimmingalongside,theyguidedtheswampingcanoesdowntheswiftcurrenttothefootoftherapid,andthenranthemashoretobalethemout。Aboatcouldhavepasseddownsafely,butourcanoeswerenotafootabovethewateratthegunwales。
Thankstothebraveryofthesepoorfellows,nothingwaslost,althougheverythingwaswellsoaked。ThisrapidisnearlyoppositethewestendoftheMburumamountainsorKarivua。Anothersoonbeginsbelowit。Theyaresaidtobeallsmoothedoverwhentheriverrises。Thecanoeshadtobeunloadedatthistheworstrapid,andthegoodscarriedaboutahundredyards。Bytakingthetimeinwhichapieceofstickfloatedpast100feet,wefoundthecurrenttoberunningsixknots,byfarthegreatestvelocitynotedintheriver。Asthemenwerebringingthelastcanoedownclosetotheshore,thesternswungroundintothecurrent,andallexceptonemanletgo,ratherthanbedraggedoff。Heclungtothebow,andwassweptoutintothemiddleofthestream。Havingheldonwhenheoughttohaveletgo,henextputhislifeinjeopardybylettinggowhenheoughttohaveheldon;andwasinafewsecondsswallowedupbyafearfulwhirlpool。Hiscomradeslaunchedoutacanoebelow,andcaughthimasherosethethirdtimetothesurface,andsavedhim,thoughmuchexhaustedandverycold。