TheportionofthehighlandswhichtheBishopwishedtolookatbeforedecidingonasettlementbelongedtoChiwawa，orChibaba，themostmanlyandgenerousManganjachiefwehadmetwithonourpreviousjourney。OnreachingNsambo\'s，nearMountChiradzuru，weheardthatChibabawasdead，andthatChigundawaschiefinstead。
Chigunda，apparentlyofhisownaccord，thoughpossiblyhemayhavelearntthattheBishopintendedtosettlesomewhereinthecountry，askedhimtocomeandlivewithhimatMagomero，addingthattherewasroomenoughforboth。ThisheartyandspontaneousinvitationhadconsiderableinfluenceontheBishop\'smind，andseemedtodecidethequestion。AplacenearertheShirewouldhavebeenchosenhadheexpectedhissuppliestocomeupthatriver；butthePortuguese，claimingtheriverShire，thoughneveroccupyingevenitsmouth，hadclosedit，aswellastheZambesi。
OurhopeswereturnedtotheRovuma，asafreehighwayintoLakeNyassaandthevastinterior。AsteamerwasalreadyorderedfortheLake，andtheBishop，seeingtheadvantageousnatureofthehighlandswhichstretchanimmensewaytothenorth，wasmoreanxioustobeneartheLakeandtheRovuma，thantheShire。WhenhedecidedtosettleatMagomero，itwasthoughtdesirable，topreventthecountryfrombeingdepopulated，tovisittheAjawachief，andtotryandpersuadehimtogiveuphisslavingandkidnappingcourses，andturntheenergiesofhispeopletopeacefulpursuits。
Onthemorningofthe22ndwewereinformedthattheAjawawerenear，andwereburningavillageafewmilesoff。Leavingtherescuedslaves，wemovedofftoseekaninterviewwiththesescourgesofthecountry。OnourwaywemetcrowdsofManganjafleeingfromthewarinfront。Thesepoorfugitivesfromtheslavehunthad，asusual，toleaveallthefoodtheypossessed，exceptthelittletheycouldcarryontheirheads。WepassedfieldafterfieldofIndiancornorbeans，standingripeforharvesting，buttheownerswereaway。Thevillageswerealldeserted:onewherewebreakfastedtwoyearsbefore，andsawanumberofmenpeacefullyweavingcloth，and，amongourselves，calleditthe\"Paisleyofthehills，\"wasburnt；thestoresofcornwerepouredoutincartloads，andscatteredallovertheplain，andallalongthepaths，neitherconquerorsnorconqueredhavingbeenabletoconveyitaway。Abouttwoo\'clockwesawthesmokeofburningvillages，andheardtriumphantshouts，mingledwiththewailoftheManganjawomen，lamentingovertheirslain。TheBishopthenengagedusinferventprayer；and，onrisingfromourknees，wesawalonglineofAjawawarriors，withtheircaptives，comingroundthehill-side。Thefirstofthereturningconquerorswereenteringtheirownvillagebelow，andweheardwomenwelcomingthembackwith\"lillilooings。”TheAjawaheadmanleftthepathonseeingus，andstoodonananthilltoobtainacompleteviewofourparty。Wecalledoutthatwehadcometohaveaninterviewwiththem，butsomeoftheManganjawhofollowedusshouted\"OurChibisaiscome:\"
Chibisabeingwellknownasagreatconjurerandgeneral。TheAjawaranoffyellingandscreaming，\"Nkondo!Nkondo!\"(War!War!)WeheardthewordsoftheManganja，buttheydidnotstrikeusatthemomentasneutralizingallourassertionsofpeace。Thecaptivesthrewdowntheirloadsonthepath，andfledtothehills:andalargebodyofarmedmencamerunningupfromthevillage，andinafewsecondstheywereallaroundus，thoughmostlyconcealedbytheprojectingrocksandlonggrass。Invainweprotestedthatwehadnotcometofight，buttotalkwiththem。Theywouldnotlisten，having，aswerememberedafterwards，goodreason，inthecryof\"OurChibisa。”Flushedwithrecentvictoryoverthreevillages，andconfidentofaneasytriumphoveramerehandfulofmen，theybegantoshoottheirpoisonedarrows，sendingthemwithgreatforceupwardsofahundredyards，andwoundingoneofourfollowersthroughthearm。Ourretiringslowlyuptheascentfromthevillageonlymadethemmoreeagertopreventourescape；and，inthebeliefthatthisretreatwasevidenceoffear，theycloseduponusinbloodthirstyfury。Somecamewithinfiftyyards，dancinghideously；othershavingquitesurroundedus，andavailingthemselvesoftherocksandlonggrasshardby，wereintentoncuttingusoff，whileothersmadeoffwiththeirwomenandalargebodyofslaves。Fourwerearmedwithmuskets，andwewereobligedinself-defencetoreturntheirfireanddrivethemoff。Whentheysawtherangeofrifles，theyverysoondesisted，andranaway；butsomeshoutedtousfromthehillstheconsolingintimation，thattheywouldfollow，andkilluswhereweslept。Onlytwoofthecaptivesescapedtous，butprobablymostofthosemadeprisonersthatdayfledelsewhereintheconfusion。Wereturnedtothevillagewhichwehadleftinthemorning，afterahungry，fatiguing，andmostunpleasantday。
Thoughwecouldnotblameourselvesforthecoursewehadfollowed，wefeltsorryforwhathadhappened。Itwasthefirsttimewehadeverbeenattackedbythenativesorcomeintocollisionwiththem；
thoughwehadalwaystakenitforgrantedthatwemightbecalledupontoactinself-defence，wewereonthisoccasionlesspreparedthanusual，nogamehavingbeenexpectedhere。Themenhadonlyasingleroundofcartridgeeach；theirleaderhadnorevolver，andtherifleheusuallyfiredwithwasleftattheshiptosaveitfromthedampoftheseason。Hadweknownbettertheeffectofslaveryandmurderonthetemperofthesebloodthirstymarauders，weshouldhavetriedmessagesandpresentsbeforegoingnearthem。
Theoldchief，Chinsunse，cameonavisittousnextday，andpressedtheBishoptocomeandlivewithhim。\"Chigunda，\"hesaid，\"isbutachild，andtheBishopoughttolivewiththefatherratherthanwiththechild。”Buttheoldman\'sobjectwassoevidentlytohavetheMissionasashieldagainsttheAjawa，thathisinvitationwasdeclined。Whilebeggingustodriveawaythemarauders，thathemightliveinpeace，headoptedthestratagemofcausinganumberofhismentorushintothevillage，inbreathlesshaste，withthenewsthattheAjawawerecloseuponus。Andhavingbeenremindedthatweneverfought，unlessattacked，aswewerethedaybefore，andthatwehadcomeamongthemforthepurposeofpromotingpeace，andofteachingthemtoworshiptheSupreme，togiveupsellingHischildren，andtocultivateotherobjectsforbarterthaneachother，hereplied，inahuff，\"ThenIamdeadalready。”
TheBishop，feeling，asmostEnglishmenwould，attheprospectofthepeoplenowinhischargebeingsweptoffintoslaverybyhordesofmen-stealers，proposedtogoatoncetotherescueofthecaptiveManganja，anddrivethemaraudingAjawaoutofthecountry。Allwerewarmlyinfavourofthis，saveDr。Livingstone，whoopposeditonthegroundthatitwouldbebetterfortheBishoptowait，andseetheeffectofthechecktheslave-huntershadjustexperienced。TheAjawawereevidentlygoadedonbyPortugueseagentsfromTette，andtherewasnobondofunionamongtheManganjaonwhichtowork。ItwaspossiblethattheAjawamightbepersuadedtosomethingbetter，though，fromhavinglongbeeninthehabitofslavingfortheQuillimanemarket，itwasnotveryprobable。ButtheManganjacouldeasilybeovercomepiecemealbyanyenemy；oldfeudsmadethemgladtoseecalamitiesbefalltheirnextneighbours。Wecounselledthemtouniteagainstthecommonenemiesoftheircountry，andaddeddistinctlythatweEnglishwouldonnoaccountenterintotheirquarrels。OntheBishopinquiringwhether，intheeventoftheManganjaagainaskingaidagainsttheAjawa，itwouldbehisdutytoaccedetotheirrequest，——\"No，\"repliedDr。Livingstone，\"youwillbeoppressedbytheirimportunities，butdonotinterfereinnativequarrels。”Thisadvicethegoodmanhonourablymentionsinhisjournal。WehavebeenratherminuteinrelatingwhatoccurredduringthefewdaysofourconnectionwiththeMissionoftheEnglishUniversities，onthehills，because，therecordedadvicehavingbeendiscarded，blamewasthrownonDr。Livingstone\'sshoulders，asifthemissionarieshadnoindividualresponsibilityfortheirsubsequentconduct。This，unquestionably，goodBishopMackenziehadtoomuchmanlinesstohaveallowed。TheconnectionofthemembersoftheZambesiExpedition，withtheactsoftheBishop\'sMission，nowceased，forwereturnedtotheshipandpreparedforourjourneytoLakeNyassa。Wecheerfully，ifnecessary，willbearallresponsibilityuptothispoint；andiftheBishopafterwardsmademistakesincertaincollisionswiththeslavers，hehadthevotesofallhispartywithhim，andthosewhobestknewthepeculiarcircumstances，andthelovingdispositionofthisgood-heartedman，willblamehimleast。Inthisposition，andinthesecircumstances，weleftourfriendsattheMissionStation。
AsatemporarymeasuretheBishopdecidedtoplacehisMissionStationonasmallpromontoryformedbythewindingsofthelittle，clearstreamofMagomero，whichwassocoldthatthelimbswerequitebenumbedbywashinginitintheJulymornings。Thesitechosenwasapleasantspottotheeye，andcompletelysurroundedbystately，shadytrees。Itwasexpectedtoserveforaresidence，tilltheBishophadacquiredanaccurateknowledgeoftheadjacentcountry，andofthepoliticalrelationsofthepeople，andcouldselectahealthyandcommandingsituation，asapermanentcentreofChristiancivilization。Everythingpromisedfairly。Theweatherwasdelightful，resemblingthepleasantestpartofanEnglishsummer；
provisionspouredinverycheapandingreatabundance。TheBishop，withcharacteristicardour，commencedlearningthelanguage，Mr。
Wallerbeganbuilding，andMr。Scudamoreimprovisedasortofinfantschoolforthechildren，thanwhichthereisnobettermeansforacquiringanunwrittentongue。
Onthe6thofAugust，1861，afewdaysafterreturningfromMagomero，Drs。LivingstoneandKirk，andCharlesLivingstonestartedforNyassawithalightfour-oaredgig，awhitesailor，andascoreofattendants。WehiredpeoplealongthepathtocarrytheboatpastthefortymilesoftheMurchisonCataractsforacubitofcottonclothaday。Thisbeingdeemedgreatwages，morethantwicethemenrequiredeagerlyofferedtheirservices。Thechiefdifficultywasinlimitingtheirnumbers。Crowdsfollowedus；and，hadwenottakendowninthemorningthenamesoftheportersengaged，intheeveningclaimswouldhavebeenmadebythosewhoonlyhelpedduringthelasttenminutesofthejourney。Themenofonevillagecarriedtheboattothenext，andallwehadtodowastotelltheheadmanthatwewantedfreshmeninthemorning。Hesawuspaythefirstparty，andhadhismenreadyatthetimeappointed，sotherewasnodelayinwaitingforcarriers。Theyoftenmakealoudnoisewhencarryingheavyloads，buttalkingandbawlingdoesnotputthemoutofbreath。
Thecountrywasroughandwithlittlesoilonit，butcoveredwithgrassandopenforest。Afewsmalltreeswerecutdowntoclearapathforourshoutingassistants，whoweregoodenoughtoconsidertheboatasacertificateofpeacefulintentionsatleasttothem。
Severalsmallstreamswerepassed，thelargestofwhichweretheMukuru-MadseandLesungwe。Theinhabitantsonbothbankswerenowcivilandobliging。Ourpossessionofaboat，andconsequentpowerofcrossingindependentlyofthecanoes，helpedtodeveloptheirgoodmanners，whichwerenotapparentonourpreviousvisit。
Thereisoftenasurprisingcontrastbetweenneighbouringvillages。
Oneiswelloffandthriving，havinggoodhuts，plentyoffood，andnativecloth；anditspeoplearefrank，trusty，generous，andeagertosellprovisions；whileinthenexttheinhabitantsmaybeill-
housed，disobliging，suspicious，ill-fed，andscantilyclad，andwithnothingforsale，thoughthelandaroundisasfertileasthatoftheirwealthierneighbours。Wefollowedtheriverforthemostparttoavailourselvesofthestillreachesforsailing；butacomparativelysmoothcountryliesfurtherinland，overwhichagoodroadcouldbemade。Someofthefivemaincataractsareverygrand，theriverfalling1200feetinthe40miles。Afterpassingthelastofthecataracts，welaunchedourboatforgoodonthebroadanddeepwatersoftheUpperShire，andwerevirtuallyonthelake，forthegentlecurrentshowsbutlittledifferenceoflevel。Thebedisbroadanddeep，butthecourseisrathertortuousatfirst，andmakesalongbendtotheeasttillitcomeswithinfiveorsixmilesofthebaseofMountZomba。ThenativesregardedtheUpperShireasaprolongationofLakeNyassa；forwherewhatwecalledtheriverapproachesLakeShirwa，alittlenorthofthemountains，theysaidthatthehippopotami，\"whicharegreatnighttravellers，\"passfromONELAKEINTOTHEOTHER。Therethelandisflat，andonlyashortlandjourneywouldbenecessary。Seldomdoesthecurrenthereexceedaknotanhour，whilethatoftheLowerShireisfromtwototwo-and-
a-halfknots。OurlandpartyofMakololoaccompaniedusalongtherightbank，andpassedthousandsofManganjafugitiveslivingintemporaryhutsonthatside，whohadrecentlybeendrivenfromtheirvillagesontheoppositehillsbytheAjawa。
Thesoilwasdryandhard，andcoveredwithmopane-trees；butsomeoftheManganjawerebusyhoeingthegroundandplantingthelittlecorntheyhadbroughtwiththem。TheeffectsofhungerwerealreadyvisibleonthosewhosefoodhadbeenseizedorburnedbytheAjawaandPortugueseslave-traders。Thespokesmanorprimeministerofoneofthechiefs，namedKalonjere，wasahumpbackeddwarf，afluentspeaker，whotriedhardtomakeusgooveranddriveofftheAjawa；
buthecouldnotdenythatbysellingpeopleKalonjerehadinvitedtheseslave-hunterstothecountry。Thisisthesecondhumpbackeddwarfwehavefoundoccupyingthelikeimportantpost，theotherwastheprimeministerofaBatongachiefontheZambesi。
Aswesailedalong，wedisturbedmanywhite-breastedcormorants；wehadseenthesamespeciesfishingbetweenthecataracts。Here，withmanyotherwild-fowls，theyfindsubsistenceonthesmoothwaterbynight，andsitsleepilyontreesandinthereedsbyday。Manyhippopotamiwereseenintheriver，andoneofthemstretcheditswidejaws，asiftoswallowthewholesternoftheboat，closetoDr。
Kirk\'sback；theanimalwassonearthat，inopeningitsmouth，itlashedaquantityofwaterontothestern-sheets，butdidnodamage。
ToavoidlargemaraudingpartiesofAjawa，ontheleftbankoftheShire，wecontinuedontheright，orwesternside，withourlandparty，alongtheshoreofthesmalllakePamalombe。Thislakeletistenortwelvemilesinlength，andfiveorsixbroad。Itisnearlysurroundedbyabroadbeltofpapyrus，sodensethatwecouldscarcelyfindanopeningtotheshore。Theplants，tenortwelvefeethigh，grewsocloselytogetherthatairwasexcluded，andsomuchsulphurettedhydrogengasevolvedthatbyonenight\'sexposurethebottomoftheboatwasblackened。Myriadsofmosquitoesshowed，asprobablytheyalwaysdo，thepresenceofmalaria。
Wehastenedfromthissicklyspot，tryingtotaketheattentionsofthemosquitoesashintstoseekmorepleasantquartersonthehealthyshoresofLakeNyassa；andwhenwesailedintoit，onthe2ndSeptember，wefeltrefreshedbythegreatercoolnessoftheairoffthislargebodyofwater。Thedepthwasthefirstpointofinterest。
Thisisindicatedbythecolourofthewater，which，onabeltalongtheshore，varyingfromaquartertohalfamileinbreadth，islightgreen，andthisismetbythedeepblueorindigotintoftheIndianOcean，whichisthecolourofthegreatbodyofNyassa。WefoundtheUpperShirefromninetofifteenfeetindepth；butskirtingthewesternsideofthelakeaboutamilefromtheshorethewaterdeepenedfromninetofifteenfathoms；then，asweroundedthegrandmountainouspromontory，whichwenamedCapeMaclear，afterourexcellentfriendtheAstronomerRoyalattheCapeofGoodHope，wecouldgetnobottomwithourlead-lineofthirty-fivefathoms。Wepulledalongthewesternshore，whichwasasuccessionofbays，andfoundthatwherethebottomwassandynearthebeach，andtoamileout，thedepthvariedfromsixtofourteenfathoms。Inarockybayaboutlatitude11degrees40minuteswehadsoundingsat100fathoms，thoughoutsidethesamebaywefoundnonewithafishing-lineof116
fathoms；butthiscastwasunsatisfactory，asthelinebrokeincomingup。Accordingtoourpresentknowledge，ashipcouldanchoronlyneartheshore。
LookingbacktothesouthernendofLakeNyassa，thearmfromwhichtheShireflowswasfoundtobeaboutthirtymileslongandfromtentotwelvebroad。RoundingCapeMaclear，andlookingtothesouth-
west，wehaveanotherarm，whichstretchessomeeighteenmilessouthward，andisfromsixtotwelvemilesinbreadth。Thesearmsgivethesouthernendaforkedappearance，andwiththehelpofalittleimaginationitmaybelikenedtothe\"boot-shape\"ofItaly。
Thenarrowestpartisabouttheankle，eighteenortwentymiles。
Fromthisitwidenstothenorth，andintheupperthirdorfourthitisfiftyorsixtymilesbroad。Thelengthisover200miles。Thedirectioninwhichitliesisasnearaspossibleduenorthandsouth。Nothingofthegreatbendtothewest，showninallthepreviousmaps，couldbedetectedbyeithercompassorchronometer，andthewatchweusedwasanexcellentone。Theseasonoftheyearwasveryunfavourable。The\"smokes\"filledtheairwithanimpenetrablehaze，andtheequinoctialgalesmadeitimpossibleforustocrosstotheeasternside。Whenwecaughtaglimpseofthesunrisingfrombehindthemountainstotheeast，wemadesketchesandbearingsofthematdifferentlatitudes，whichenabledustosecureapproximatemeasurementsofthewidth。Theseagreedwiththetimestakenbythenativesatthedifferentcrossing-places——asTsengaandMolamba。AboutthebeginningoftheupperthirdthelakeiscrossedbytakingadvantageoftheislandChizumara，whichnameinthenativetonguemeansthe\"ending；\"furthernorththeygoroundtheendinstead，thoughthattakesseveraldays。
Thelakeappearedtobesurroundedbymountains，butitwasafterwardsfoundthatthesebeautifultree-coveredheightswere，onthewest，onlytheedgesofhightable-lands。Likeallnarrowseasencircledbyhighlands，itisvisitedbysuddenandtremendousstorms。WewereonitinSeptemberandOctober，perhapsthestormiestseasonoftheyear，andwererepeatedlydetainedbygales。
Attimes，whilesailingpleasantlyoverthebluewaterwithagentlebreeze，suddenlyandwithoutanywarningwasheardthesoundofacomingstorm，roaringonwithcrowdsofangrywavesinitswake。Wewerecaughtonemorningwiththeseabreakingallaroundus，and，unableeithertoadvanceorrecede，anchoredamilefromshore，insevenfathoms。Thefurioussurfonthebeachwouldhaveshiveredourboattoatoms，hadwetriedtoland。Thewavesmostdreadedcamerollingoninthrees，withtheircrests，drivenintospray，streamingbehindthem。Ashortlullfollowedeachtriplecharge。Hadoneoftheseseasstruckourboat，nothingcouldhavesavedus；fortheycameonwithresistlessforce；seaward，inshore，andoneithersideofus，theybrokeinfoam，butweescaped。Forsixwearyhourswefacedthoseterribletrios。Alow，dark，detached，oddlyshapedcloudcameslowlyfromthemountains，andhungforhoursdirectlyoverourheads。Aflockofnight-jars(Cometornisvexillarius)，whichonnootheroccasioncomeoutbyday，soaredaboveusinthegale，likebirdsofevilomen。Ourblackcrewbecamesea-sickandunabletosituporkeeptheboat\'sheadtothesea。Thenativesandourlandpartystoodonthehighcliffslookingatusandexclaiming，asthewavesseemedtoswallowuptheboat，\"Theyarelost!theyarealldead!\"Whenatlastthegalemoderatedandwegotsafelyashore，theysaluteduswarmly，asafteralongabsence。Fromthistimewetrustedimplicitlytotheopinionsofourseaman，JohnNeil，who，havingbeenafishermanonthecoastofIreland，understoodboatingonastormycoast，andbyhisadviceweoftensatcoweringonthelandfordaystogetherwaitingforthesurftogodown。Hehadneverseensuchwavesbefore。Wehadtobeachtheboateverynighttosaveherfrombeingswampedatanchor；and，didwenotbelievethegalestobepeculiartooneseasonoftheyear，wouldcallNyassathe\"LakeofStorms。”
Distinctwhitemarksontherocksshowedthat，forsometimeduringtherainyseason，thewaterofthelakeisthreefeetabovethepointtowhichitfallstowardsthecloseofthedryperiodoftheyear。
TherainsbeginhereinNovember，andthepermanentriseoftheShiredoesnottakeplacetillJanuary。ThewesternsideofLakeNyassa，withtheexceptionofthegreatharbourtothewestofCapeMaclear，is，ashasbeensaidbefore，asuccessionofsmallbaysofnearlysimilarform，eachhavinganopensandybeachandpebblyshore，andbeingseparatedfromitsneighbourbyarockyheadland，withdetachedrocksextendingsomedistanceouttosea。Thegreatsouth-westernbayreferredtowouldformamagnificentharbour，theonlyreallygoodonewesawtothewest。
Thelandimmediatelyadjacenttothelakeislowandfertile，thoughinsomeplacesmarshyandtenantedbylargeflocksofducks，geese，herons，crownedcranes，andotherbirds。Inthesouthernpartswehavesometimestenoradozenmilesofrichplains，borderedbywhatseemhighrangesofwell-woodedhills，runningnearlyparallelwiththelake。Northwardsthemountainsbecomeloftierandpresentsomemagnificentviews，rangetoweringbeyondrange，untilthedim，loftyoutlinesprojectedagainsttheskyboundtheprospect。Stillfurthernorththeplainbecomesmorenarrow，until，nearwhereweturned，itdisappearsaltogether，andthemountainsriseabruptlyoutofthelake，formingthenorth-eastboundaryofwhatwasdescribedtousasanextensivetable-land；wellsuitedforpasturageandagriculture，andnowonlypartiallyoccupiedbyatribeofZulus，whocamefromthesouthsomeyearsago。Thesepeopleownlargeherdsofcattle，andareconstantlyincreasinginnumbersbyannexingothertribes。
CHAPTERX。
TheLaketribes——TheMazitu——Quantitiesofelephants——Distressingjourney——DetentionontheShire。
NeverbeforeinAfricahaveweseenanythinglikethedensepopulationontheshoresofLakeNyassa。Inthesouthernparttherewasanalmostunbrokenchainofvillages。Onthebeachofwellnighofeverylittlesandybay，darkcrowdswerestanding，gazingatthenovelsightofaboatundersail；andwhereverwelandedweweresurroundedinafewsecondsbyhundredsofmen，women，andchildren，whohastenedtohaveastareatthe\"chirombo\"(wildanimals)。
Duringaportionoftheyear，thenortherndwellersonthelakehaveaharvestwhichfurnishesasingularsortoffood。Asweapproachedourlimitinthatdirection，clouds，asofsmokerisingfrommilesofburninggrass，wereobservedbendinginasouth-easterlydirection，andwethoughtthattheunseenlandontheoppositesidewasclosingin，andthatwewereneartheendofthelake。Butnextmorningwesailedthroughoneofthecloudsonourownside，anddiscoveredthatitwasneithersmokenorhaze，butcountlessmillionsofminutemidgescalled\"kungo\"(acloudorfog)。Theyfilledtheairtoanimmenseheight，andswarmeduponthewater，toolighttosinkinit。
Eyesandmouthhadtobekeptclosedwhilepassingthroughthislivingcloud:theystruckuponthefacelikefinedriftingsnow。
Thousandslayintheboatwhensheemergedfromthecloudofmidges。
Thepeoplegathertheseminuteinsectsbynight，andboilthemintothickcakes，tobeusedasarelish——millionsofmidgesinacake。A
kungocake，aninchthick，andaslargeasthebluebonnetofaScotchploughman，wasofferedtous；itwasverydarkincolour，andtastednotunlikecaviare，orsaltedlocusts。
Abundanceofexcellentfishisfoundinthelake，andnearlyallwerenewtous。Thempasa，orsanjika，foundbyDr。Kirktobeakindofcarp，wasrunninguptheriverstospawn，likeoursalmonathome:
thelargestwesawwasovertwofeetinlength；itisasplendidfish，andthebestwehaveevereateninAfrica。TheywereascendingtheriversinAugustandSeptember，andfurnishedactiveandprofitableemploymenttomanyfishermen，whodidnotmindtheirbeingoutofseason。Weirswereconstructedfullofsluices，ineachofwhichwassetalargebasket-trap，throughwhosesingletortuousopeningthefishonceinhasbutsmallchanceofescape。Ashortdistancebelowtheweir，netsarestretchedacrossfrombanktobank，sothatitseemedamarvelhowthemostsagacioussanjikacouldgetupatallwithoutbeingtaken。Possiblyapassageuptheriverisfoundatnight；butthisisnotthecountryofSundaysor\"closetimes\"foreithermenorfish。Thelakefisharecaughtchieflyinnets，althoughmen，andevenwomenwithbabiesontheirbacks，areoccasionallyseenfishingfromtherockswithhooks。
Anetwithsmallmeshesisusedforcatchingtheyoungfryofasilverykindlikepickerel，whentheyareabouttwoincheslong；
thousandsareoftentakeninasinglehaul。Wehadapresentofalargebucketfulonedayfordinner:theytastedasiftheyhadbeencookedwithalittlequinine，probablyfromtheirgall-bladdersbeingleftin。Indeepwater，somesortsaretakenbyloweringfish-
basketsattachedbyalongcordtoafloat，aroundwhichisoftentiedamassofgrassorweeds，asanalluringshadeforthedeep-seafish。Fleetsoffinecanoesareengagedinthefisheries。Themenhavelongpaddles，andstanderectwhileusingthem。Theysometimesventureoutwhenaconsiderableseaisrunning。OurMakololoacknowledgethat，inhandlingcanoes，theLakemenbeatthem；theywereunwillingtocrosstheZambesieven，whenthewindblewfresh。
Thoughtherearemanycrocodilesinthelake，andsomeofanextraordinarysize，thefishermensaythatitisararethingforanyonetobecarriedoffbythesereptiles。Whencrocodilescaneasilyobtainabundanceoffish——theirnaturalfood——theyseldomattackmen；
butwhenunabletoseetocatchtheirprey，fromthemuddinessofthewaterinfloods，theyareverydangerous。
Manymenandboysareemployedingatheringthebuaze，inpreparingthefibre，andinmakingitintolongnets。Theknotofthenetisdifferentfromours，fortheyinvariablyusewhatsailorscallthereefknot，buttheynetwithaneedlelikethatweuse。Fromtheamountofnativecottonclothworninmanyofthesouthernvillages，itisevidentthatagreatnumberofhandsandheadsmustbeemployedinthecultivationofcotton，andinthevariousslowprocessesthroughwhichithastopass，beforethewebisfinishedinthenativeloom。Inadditiontothisbranchofindustry，anextensivemanufactureofcloth，fromtheinnerbarkofanundescribedtree，ofthebotanicalgroup，Caesalpineae，isevergoingon，fromoneendofthelaketotheother；andbothtoilandtimearerequiredtoprocurethebark，andtoprepareitbypoundingandsteepingittorenderitsoftandpliable。Theprodigiousamountofthebarkclothingwornindicatesthedestructionofanimmensenumberoftreeseveryyear；
yettheadjacentheightsseemstillwellcoveredwithtimber。
TheLakepeoplearebynomeanshandsome:thewomenareVERYplain；
andreallymakethemselveshideousbythemeanstheyadopttorenderthemselvesattractive。Thepelele，orornamentfortheupperlip，isuniversallywornbytheladies；themostvaluableisofpuretin，hammeredintotheshapeofasmalldish；somearemadeofwhitequartz，andgivethewearertheappearanceofhavinganinchormoreofoneofPrice\'spatentcandlesthrustthroughthelip，andprojectingbeyondthetipofthenose。
Incharacter，theLaketribesareverymuchlikeotherpeople；therearedecentmenamongthem，whileagoodmanyarenobetterthantheyshouldbe。Theyareopen-handedenough:ifoneofus，aswasoftenthecase，wenttoseeanetdrawn，afishwasalwaysoffered。
Sailingonedaypastanumberofmen，whohadjustdraggedtheirnetsashore，atoneofthefinefisheriesatPamalombe，wewerehailedandaskedtostop，andreceivedaliberaldonationofbeautifulfish。
Arrivinglateoneafternoonatasmallvillageonthelake，anumberoftheinhabitantsmannedtwocanoes，tookouttheirseine，draggedit，andmadeusapresentoftheentirehaul。Thenorthernchief，Marenga，atallhandsomeman，withafineaquilinenose，whomwefoundlivinginhisstockadeinaforestabouttwentymilesnorthofthemountainKowirwe，behavedlikeagentlemantous。HislandextendedfromDambotothenorthofMakuzahill。Hewasspeciallygenerous，andgaveusbountifulpresentsoffoodandbeer。\"Dotheywearsuchthingsinyourcountry？\"heasked，pointingtohisironbracelet，whichwasstuddedwithcopper，andhighlyprized。TheDoctorsaidhehadneverseensuchinhiscountry，whereuponMarengainstantlytookitoff，andpresentedittohim，andhiswifealsodidthesamewithhers。Onourreturnsouthfromthemountainsnearthenorthendofthelake，wereachedMarenga\'sonthe7thOctober。Whenhecouldnotprevailuponustoforegotheadvantageofafairwindforhisinvitationto\"spendthewholedaydrinkinghisbeer，whichwas，\"hesaid，\"quiteready，\"heloadeduswithprovisions，allofwhichhesentforbeforewegavehimanypresent。Inallusiontotheboat\'ssail，hispeoplesaidthattheyhadnoBazimo，ornoneworthhaving，seeingtheyhadneverinventedthelikeforthem。Thechief，Mankambira，likewisetreateduswithkindness；butwherevertheslave-tradeiscarriedon，thepeoplearedishonestanduncivil；thatinvariablyleavesablightandacurseinitspath。Thefirstquestionputtousatthelakecrossing-places，was，\"Haveyoucometobuyslaves？\"OnhearingthatwewereEnglish，andneverpurchasedslaves，thequestionersputonasuperciliousair，andsometimesrefusedtosellusfood。ThiswantofrespecttousmayhavebeenowingtotheimpressionsconveyedtothembytheArabs，whosedhowshavesometimesbeentakenbyEnglishcruiserswhenengagedinlawfultrade。Muchforeigncloth，beads，andbrass-wirewerewornbytheseferrymen——andsomehadmuskets。
ByChitanda，nearoneoftheslavecrossing-places，wewererobbedforthefirsttimeinAfrica，andlearnedbyexperiencethatthesepeople，likemorecivilizednations，haveexpertthievesamongthem。
Itmightbeonlyacoincidence；butweneversufferedfromimpudence，lossofproperty，orwereendangered，unlessamongpeoplefamiliarwithslaving。Wehadsuchageneralsenseofsecurity，thatnever，savewhenwesuspectedtreachery，didwesetawatchatnight。Ournativecompanionshad，onthisoccasion，beencarousingonbeer，andhadremovedtoadistanceofsomethirtyyards，thatwemightnotoverheartheirfreeandeasyafter-dinnerremarks，andtwoofushadaslighttouchoffever；betweenthreeandfouro\'clockinthemorningsomethievescame，whilewesleptingloriously——riflesandrevolversallready，——andrelievedusofmostofourgoods。Theboat\'ssail，underwhichweslept，wasopenallaround，sothefeatwaseasy。
Awakingashonestmendo，attheusualhour，thelossofonewasannouncedby\"Mybagisgone——withallmyclothes；andmybootstoo!\"
\"Andmine!\"respondedasecond。\"Andminealso!\"chimedinthethird，\"withthebagofbeads，andtherice!\"\"Istheclothtaken？\"
wastheeagerinquiry，asthatwouldhavebeenequivalenttoallourmoney。Ithadbeenusedforapillowthatnight，andthussaved。
