FlocksofgreenpigeonscomeinApriltofeedontheyoungfruitofthewildfig-trees，whichisalsoeatenbyalargespeciesofbatintheevenings。Theprettylittleblackweaver，withyellowshoulders，appearstoenjoylifeintenselyafterassuminghiswooingdress。A
heartybreakfastiseateninthemorningsandthencomethehoursformakingmerry。Aselectpartyofthreeorfourperchonthebusheswhichskirtasmallgrassyplain，andcheerthemselveswiththemusicoftheirownquietandself-complacentsong。Aplayfulperformanceonthewindsucceeds。Expandinghissoftvelvet-likeplumage，oneglideswithquiveringpinionstothecentreoftheopenspace，singingasheflies，thenturnswitharapidwhirringsoundfromhiswings——somewhatlikeachild\'srattle——andreturnstohisplaceagain。Onebyonetheothersperformthesamefeat，andcontinuethesportforhours，strivingwhichcanproducetheloudestbrattlewhileturning。Thesegamesareonlyplayedduringtheseasonofcourtingandofthegayfeathers；themerrimentseemsnevertobethoughtofwhilethebirdwearshiswintersuitofsoberbrown。
WereceivedtwomulesfromtheCapetoaidusintransportingthepiecesofthe\"LadyNyassa\"pastthecataractsandlandedthematShupanga，buttheysoonperished。APortuguesegentlemankindlyinformedus，AFTERboththemulesweredead，thatheknewtheywoulddie；forthelandtherehadbeenoftentried，andnothingwouldliveonit——notevenapig。Hesaidhehadnottoldussobefore，becausehedidnotliketoappearofficious!
Bythetimeeverythinghadbeenplacedonboardthe\"LadyNyassa，\"
thewatersoftheZambesiandtheShirehadfallensolowthatitwasuselesstoattempttakingheruptothecataractsbeforetherainsinDecember。Draughtoxenandprovisionsalsowererequired，andcouldnotbeobtainednearerthantheIslandofJohanna。ThePortuguese，withoutrefusingpositivelytolettradeentertheZambesi，threwimpedimentsintheway；theyonlywantedasmallduty!Theywereabouttoestablishariverpolice，andrearrangetheCrownlands，whichhavelongsincebecomeZululands；meanwhiletheyweremakingtheZambesi，byslaving，ofnovaluetoanyone。
TheRovuma，whichwasreportedtocomefromLakeNyassa，beingoutoftheirclaimsandafreeriver，wedeterminedtoexploreitinourboatsimmediatelyonourreturnfromJohanna，forwhichplace，aftersomedelayattheKongone，inrepairingengines，paddle-wheel，andrudder，wesailedonthe6thofAugust。AstoreofnavalprovisionshadbeenformedonahulkinPomoneBayofthatislandforthesupplyofthecruisers，andwasinchargeofMr。Sunley，theConsul，fromwhomwealwaysreceivedthekindestattentionsandassistance。Henowobligedusbypartingwithsixoxen，trainedforhisownuseinsugar-making。Thoughsadlyhamperedinhisundertakingbybeingobligedtoemployslavelabour，hehasbyindomitableenergyovercomeobstaclesunderwhichmostpersonswouldhavesunk。Hehasdoneallthatunderthecircumstancescouldbedonetoinfuseadesireforfreedom，bypayingregularwages；andhasestablishedalargefactory，andbrought300acresofrichsoilundercultivationwithsugar-cane。Wetrusthewillrealizethefortunewhichhesowelldeservestoearn。HadMr。Sunleyperformedthesameexperimentonthemainland，wherepeoplewouldhaveflockedtohimforthewageshenowgives，hewouldcertainlyhaveinauguratedaneweraontheEastCoastofAfrica。Onasmallislandwheretheslaveholdershavecompletepowerovertheslaves，andwherethereisnofreesoilsuchasiseverywheremetwithinAfrica，theexperimentoughtnottoberepeated。WereMr。Sunleycommencingagain，itshouldneitherbeinZanzibarnorJohanna，butonAfricansoil，where，ifevenaslaveisill-treated，hecaneasilybyflightbecomefree。OnanislandundernativeruleajointmanufacturebyArabsandEnglishmenmightonlymeanthatthelatterweretoescapetheodiumoffloggingtheslaves。
OnleavingJohannaandouroxenforatime，H。M。S。\"Orestes\"towedusthencetothemouthoftheRovumaatthebeginningofSeptember。
CaptainGardner，hercommander，andseveralofhisofficers，accompaniedusuptheriverfortwodaysinthegigandcutter。Thewaterwasunusuallylow，anditwasratherdullworkforafewhoursinthemorning；butthescenebecamelivelierandmoreanimatedwhenthebreezebegantoblow。Ourfourboatstheysweptonunderfullsail，themenonthelookoutinthegigandcuttercalling，\"Port，sir!\"\"Starboard，sir!\"\"Asyougo，sir!\"whiletheblackmeninthebowsoftheothersshoutedthepracticalequivalents，\"Pagombe!
Pagombe!\"\"Endaquete!\"\"Berane!Berane!\"Presentlytheleading-
boattouchesonasandbank；downcomestheflutteringsail；themenjumpouttoshoveheroff，andtheotherboats，shunningtheobstruction，shootonaheadtobebroughtupeachinitsturnbymistakingasandbankforthechannel，whichhadoftenbutaverylittledepthofwater。
Adrowsyherdofhippopotamiweresuddenlystartledbyascoreofrifle-shots，andstaredinamazementatthestrangeobjectswhichhadinvadedtheirpeacefuldomains，untilafewmorebulletscompelledthemtoseekrefugeatthebottomofthedeeppool，nearwhichtheyhadbeenquietlyreposing。Onourreturn，oneoftheherdretaliated。Hefollowedtheboat，cameupunderit，andtwicetriedtotearthebottomoutofit；butfortunatelyitwastooflatforhisjawstogetagoodgrip，sohemerelydamagedoneoftheplankswithhistusks，thoughheliftedtheboatrightup，withtenmenandatonofebonyinit。
Weslept，oneofthetwonightsCaptainGardnerwaswithus，oppositethelakeletChidia，whichisconnectedwiththeriverinfloodtime，andisnearlysurroundedbyhillssome500or600feethigh，dottedoverwithtrees。Afewsmallgroupsofhutsstoodonthehill-sides，withgardensoffwhichtheusualnativeproducehadbeenreaped。Thepeopledidnotseemmuchalarmedbythepresenceofthelargepartywhichhaddrawnuponthesandbanksbelowtheirdwellings。Thereisabundanceoflargeebonyintheneighbourhood。Theprettylittleantelope(Cephalophuscaeruleus)，aboutthesizeofahare，seemedtoabound，asmanyoftheirskinswereofferedforsale。Neatfigureddate-leafmatsofvariouscoloursarewovenhere，thedifferentdyesbeingobtainedfromthebarksoftrees。CattlecouldnotliveonthebanksoftheRovumaonaccountofthetsetse，whicharefoundfromnearthemouth，upasfaraswecouldtaketheboats。Thenavigationdidnotimproveasweascended；snags，broughtdownbythefloods，werecommon，andleftinthechannelonthesuddensubsidenceofthewater。Inmanyplaces，wheretheriverdividedintotwoorthreechannels，therewasnotwaterenoughinanyofthemforaboatdrawingthreefeet，sowehadtodragoursovertheshoals；butwesawtheriveratitsverylowest，anditmaybeyearsbeforeitissodriedupagain。
ThevalleyoftheRovuma，boundedoneachsidebyarangeofhighlands，isfromtwotofourmilesinwidth，andcomesinaprettystraightcoursefromtheW。S。W。；butthechanneloftheriveriswinding，andnowatitslowestzigzaggedsoperversely，thatfrequentlytheboatshadtopassoverthreemilestomakeoneinastraightline。Withafullstreamitmustofcoursebemucheasierwork。Fewnativeswereseenduringthefirstweek。Theirvillagesareconcealedinthethickjungleonthehill-sides，forprotectionfrommaraudingslave-parties。Notmuchofinterestwasobservedonthispartofthesilentandshallowriver。Thoughfeelingconvincedthatitwasunfitfornavigation，exceptforeightmonthsoftheyear，wepushedon，resolvedtoseeif，furtherinland，theaccountswehadreceivedfromdifferentnavalofficersofitsgreatcapabilitieswouldprovecorrect；orif，bycommunicationwithLakeNyassa，eventheupperpartcouldbeturnedtoaccount。Ourexplorationshowedusthatthegreatestprecautionisrequiredinthosewhovisitnewcountries。
Thereportswereceivedfromgentlemen，whohadenteredtheriverandwerewellqualifiedtojudge，werethattheRovumawasinfinitelysuperiortotheZambesi，intheabsenceofanybaratitsmouth，initsgreatervolumeofwater，andinthebeautyoftheadjacentlands。
Weprobablycameatadifferentseasonfromthatinwhichtheyvisitedit，andouraccountoughttobetakenwiththeirstoarriveatthetruth。Itmightbeavailableasahighwayforcommerceduringthreequartersofeachyear；butcasualvisitors，likeourselvesandothers，areallillabletodecide。Theabsenceofanimallifewasremarkable。Occasionallywesawpairsofthestatelyjabirus，oradjutant-lookingmarabouts，wadingamongtheshoals，andspur-wingedgeese，andotherwater-fowl，buttherewasscarcelyacrocodileorahippopotamustobeseen。
Attheendofthefirstweek，anoldmancalledatourcamp，andsaidhewouldsendapresentfromhisvillage，whichwasupamongthehills。Heappearednextmorningwithanumberofhispeople，bringingmeal，cassava-root，andyams。ThelanguagediffersconsiderablyfromthatontheZambesi，butitisofthesamefamily。
ThepeopleareMakonde，andareonfriendlytermswiththeMabiha，andtheMakoa，wholivesouthoftheRovuma。Whentakingawalkuptheslopesofthenorthbank，wefoundagreatvarietyoftreeswehadseennowhereelse。Thoseusuallymetwithfarinlandseemheretoapproachthecoast。Africanebony，generallynamedmpingu，isabundantwithineightmilesofthesea；itattainsalargersize，andhasmoreoftheinteriorblackwoodthanusual。Agoodtimbertreecalledmosokoisalsofound；andwesawhalf-casteArabsnearthecoastcuttingupalargelogofitintoplanks。Beforereachingthetopoftherisewewereinaforestofbamboos。Ontheplateauabove，largepatcheswereclearedandcultivated。Amaninvitedustotakeacupofbeer；onourcomplyingwithhisrequest，thefearpreviouslyshownbythebystandersvanished。OurMazaromencouldhardlyunderstandwhattheysaid。Someofthemwadedintheriverandcaughtacuriousfishinholesintheclaybank。Itsventralfinispeculiar，beingunusuallylarge，andofacircularshape，likeboys\'playthingscalled\"suckers。”WeweretoldthatthisfishisfoundalsointheZambesi，andiscalledChirire。Thoughallitsfinsarelarge，itisassertedthatitrarelyventuresoutintothestream，butremainsnearitshole，whereitisreadilycaughtbythehand。
TheZambesimenthoroughlyunderstoodthecharacteristicmarksofdeeporshallowwater，andshowedgreatskillinfindingouttheproperchannel。TheMolimoisthesteersmanatthehelm，theMokadamoistheheadcanoe-man，andhestandserectonthebowswithalongpoleinhishands，anddirectsthesteersmanwheretogo，aidingtherudder，ifnecessary，withhispole。Theotherspreferredtostandandpuntourboat，ratherthanrowwithourlongoars，beingabletoshoveheraheadfasterthantheycouldpullher。Theyareaccustomedtoshortpaddles。OurMokadamowasaffectedwithmoon-
blindness，andcouldnotseeatallatnight。Hiscomradesthenledhimabout，andhandedhimhisfood。Theythoughtthatitwasonlybecausehiseyesrestedallnight，thathecouldseethechannelsowellbyday。AtdifficultplacestheMokadamosometimes，however，mademistakes，andranusaground；andtheothers，evidentlyimbuedwiththespiritofresistancetoconstitutedauthority，andledbyJoaoanaspirantfortheoffice，jeeredhimforhisstupidity。\"Washeasleep？Whydidheallowtheboattocomethere？Couldhenotseethechannelwassomewhereelse？\"AtlasttheMokadamothrewdownthepoleindisgust，andtoldJoaohemightbeaMokadamohimself。
Theofficewasacceptedwithalacrity；butinafewminuteshetooranusintoaworsedifficultythanhispredecessoreverdid，andwasatoncedisratedamidstthederisionofhiscomrades。
Onthe16thSeptember，wearrivedattheinhabitedislandofKichokomane。Theusualwayofapproachinganunknownpeopleistocalloutinacheerfultone\"Malonda!\"Thingsforsale，ordoyouwanttosellanything？Ifwecanobtainamanfromthelastvillage，heisemployed，thoughonlyusefulinexplainingtothenextthatwecomeinafriendlyway。Thepeopleherewereshyofusatfirst，andcouldnotbeinducedtosellanyfood；untilawoman，moreadventurousthantherest，soldusafowl。Thisopenedthemarket，andcrowdscamewithfowlsandmeal，farbeyondourwants。ThewomenareasuglyasthoseonLakeNyassa，forwhocanbehandsomewearingthepelele，orupper-lipring，oflargedimensions？Wewereoncesurprisedtoseeyoungmenwearingthepelele，andweretoldthatinthetribeoftheMabiha，onthesouthbank，menaswellaswomenworethem。
Alongtheleftbank，aboveKichokomane，isanexceedinglyfertileplain，nearlytwomilesbroad，andstuddedwithanumberofdesertedvillages。Theinhabitantswerelivingintemporaryhutsonlownakedsandbanks；andwefoundthistobethecaseasfaraswewent。Theyleavemostoftheirpropertyandfoodbehind，becausetheyarenotafraidofthesebeingstolen，butonlyfearbeingstolenthemselves。
Thegreatslave-routefromNyassatoKilwapassestoN。E。fromS。W。，justbeyondthem；anditisdangeroustoremainintheirvillagesatthistimeofyear，whenthekidnappersareabroad。Inoneofthetemporaryvillages，wesaw，inpassing，twohumanheadslyingontheground。Wesleptacoupleofmilesabovethisvillage。
Beforesunrisenextmorning，alargepartyarmedwithbowsandarrowsandmusketscametothecamp，twoorthreeofthemhavingafowleach，whichwerefusedtopurchase，havingboughtenoughthedaybefore。Theyfollowedusallthemorning，andafterbreakfastthoseontheleftbankswamacrossandjoinedthemainpartyontheotherside。Itwasevidentlytheirintentiontoattackusatachosenspot，wherewehadtopassclosetoahighbank，buttheirplanwasfrustratedbyastiffbreezesweepingtheboatpast，beforethemajoritycouldgettotheplace。Theydisappearedthen，butcameoutagainaheadofus，onahighwoodedbank，walkingrapidlytothebend，nearwhichwewereobligedtosail。Anarrowwasshotattheforemostboat；andseeingtheforceatthebend，wepushedoutfromtheside，asfarastheshoalwaterwouldpermit，andtriedtobringthemtoaparley，bydeclaringthatwehadnotcometofight，buttoseetheriver。\"Whydidyoufireagun，alittlewhileago？\"theyasked。\"Weshotalargepuff-adder，topreventitfromkillingmen；
youmayseeitlyingdeadonthebeach。”Withgreatcourage，ourMokadamowadedtowithinthirtyyardsofthebank，andspokewithmuchearnestness，assuringthemthatwewereapeaceableparty，andhadnotcomeforwar，buttoseetheriver。Wewerefriends，andourcountrymenboughtcottonandivory，andwishedtocomeandtradewiththem。Allwewantedwastogoupquietlytolookattheriver，andthenreturntothesea。Whilehewastalkingwiththoseontheshore，theoldrogue，whoappearedtobetheringleader，stoleupthebank，andwithadozenothers，wadedacrosstotheisland，nearwhichtheboatslay，andcamedownbehindus。Wildwithexcitement，theyrushedintothewater，anddancedinourrear，withdrawnbows，takingaim，andmakingvarioussavagegesticulations。Theirleaderurgedthemtogetbehindsomesnags，andthenshootatus。Thepartyonthebankinfronthadmanymuskets——andthoseofthem，whohadbows，heldthemwitharrowsreadysetinthebowstrings。Theyhadamassofthickbushandtreesbehindthem，intowhichtheycouldinamomentdart，afterdischargingtheirmusketsandarrows，andbecompletelyhiddenfromoursight；acircumstancethatalwaysgivespeoplewhousebowsandarrowsthegreatestconfidence。
Notwithstandingthesedemonstrations，wewereexceedinglyloathtocometoblows。Wespentafullhalf-hourexposedatanymomenttobestruckbyabulletorpoisonedarrow。Weexplainedthatwewerebetterarmedthantheywere，andhadplentyofammunition，thesuspectedwantofwhichofteninspiresthemwithcourage，butthatwedidnotwishtoshedthebloodofthechildrenofthesameGreatFatherwithourselves；thatifwemustfight，theguiltwouldbealltheirs。
Thisbeingacommonmodeofexpostulationamongthemselves，wesofarsucceeded，thatwithgreatpersuasiontheleaderandotherslaiddowntheirarms，andwadedoverfromthebanktotheboatstotalkthematterover。\"Thiswastheirriver；theydidnotallowwhitementouseit。Wemustpaytollforleavetopass。”Itwassomewhathumiliatingtodoso，butitwaspayorfight；and，ratherthanfight，wesubmittedtothehumiliationofpayingfortheirfriendship，andgavethemthirtyyardsofcloth。Theypledgedthemselvestobeourfriendseverafterwards，andsaidtheywouldhavefoodcookedforusonourreturn。Wethenhoistedsail，andproceeded，gladthattheaffairhadbeenamicablysettled。Thoseonshorewalkeduptothebendabovetolookattheboat，aswesupposed；butthemomentshewasabreastofthem，theygaveusavolleyofmusket-ballsandpoisonedarrows，withoutawordofwarning。Fortunatelyweweresonear，thatallthearrowspassedclearoverus，butfourmusket-ballswentthroughthesailjustaboveourheads。Allourassailantsboltedintothebushesandlonggrasstheinstantafterfiring，savetwo，oneofwhomwasabouttodischargeamusketandtheotheranarrow，whenarrestedbythefireofthesecondboat。Notoneofthemshowedtheirfacesagain，tillwewereathousandyardsaway。Afewshotswerethenfiredovertheirheads，togivethemanideaoftherangeofourrifles，andtheyallfledintothewoods。Thoseonthesandbankrushedofftoo，withtheutmostspeed；butastheyhadnotshotatus，wedidnotmolestthem，andtheywentoffsafelywiththeircloth。Theyprobablyexpectedtokilloneofournumber，andintheconfusionrobtheboats。ItisonlywherethepeopleareslaversthatthenativesofthispartofAfricaarebloodthirsty。
Thesepeoplehaveabadnameinthecountryinfront，evenamongtheirowntribe。Aslave-tradingArabwemetabove，thinkingwewerethenonourwaydowntheriver，advisedusnottolandatthevillages，buttostayintheboats，astheinhabitantsweretreacherous，andattackedatonce，withoutanywarningorprovocation。Ourexperienceoftheirconductfullyconfirmedthetruthofwhathesaid。Therewasnotradeontheriverwheretheylived，butbeyondthatparttherewasabriskcanoe-tradeinriceandsalt；thosefurtherintheinteriorcultivatingrice，andsendingitdowntherivertobeexchangedforsalt，whichisextractedfromtheearthincertainplacesonthebanks。Ourassailantshardlyanticipatedresistance，andtoldaneighbouringchiefthat，iftheyhadknownwhowewere，theywouldnothaveattackedEnglish，whocan\"bitehard。”Theyofferednomolestationsonourwaydown，thoughwewereanhourinpassingtheirvillage。Ourcanoe-menpluckedupcourageonfindingthatwehadcomeoffunhurt。Oneofthem，namedChiku，acknowledgingthathehadbeenterriblyfrightened，said。
\"Hisfearwasnotthekindwhichmakesamanjumpoverboardandrunaway；butthatwhichbringstheheartuptothemouth，andrendersthemanpowerless，andnomoreabletofightthanawoman。”
InthecountryofChongaMichi，about80or90milesuptheriver，wefounddecentpeople，thoughofthesametribe，whotreatedstrangerswithcivility。AbodyofMakoahadcomefromtheirowncountryinthesouth，andsettledhere。TheMakoaareknownbyacicatriceintheforeheadshapedlikethenewmoonwiththehornsturneddownwards。ThetribepossessesallthecountrywestofMosambique；
andtheywillnotallowanyofthePortuguesetopassintotheircountrymorethantwohours\'distancefromthefort。Ahillsometenortwelvemilesdistant，calledPau，hasbeenvisitedduringthepresentgenerationonlybyonePortugueseandoneEnglishofficer，andthisvisitwasaccomplishedonlybytheinfluenceoftheprivatefriendshipofachiefforthisPortuguesegentleman。OurallieshaveoccupiedtheFortofMosambiqueforthreehundredyears，butinthis，asinallothercases，havenopowerfurtherthantheycanseefromagun-carriage。
TheMakoachief，Matingula，washospitableandcommunicative，tellingusallheknewoftheriverandcountrybeyond。HehadbeenoncetoIboeandonceatMosambiquewithslaves。Ourmenunderstoodhislanguageeasily。Auselessmuskethehadboughtatoneoftheaboveplaceswasofferedusforalittlecloth。Havingreceivedapresentoffoodfromhim，arailwayrugwashandedtohim:helookedatit——
hadneverseenclothlikethatbefore——didnotapproveofit，andwouldratherhavecottoncloth。\"Butthiswillkeepyouwarmatnight。”——\"Oh，Idonotwishtobekeptwarmatnight。”——Wegavehimabitofcottoncloth，notone-thirdthevalueoftherug，butitwasmorehighlyprized。Hispeoplerefusedtoselltheirfowlsforoursplendidprintsanddrabcloths。Theyhadprobablybeentakeninwithgaudy-patternedshamprintsbefore。Theypreferredaverycheap，plain，bluestuffofwhichtheyhadexperience。Agreatquantityofexcellenthoneyiscollectedallalongtheriver，bybarkhivesbeingplacedforthebeesonthehightreesonbothbanks。
Largepotsofit，verygoodandclear，wereofferedinexchangeforaverylittlecloth。Nowaxwasbroughtforsale；therebeingnomarketforthiscommodity，itisprobablythrownawayasuseless。
AtMichiwelosethetablelandwhich，uptothispoint，boundstheviewonbothsidesoftheriver，asitwere，withrangesofflat-
toppedhills，600or800feethigh；andtothisplateaualevelfertileplainsucceeds，onwhichstanddetachedgranitehills。Thatportionofthetablelandontherightbankseemstobendawaytothesouth，stillpreservingtheappearanceofahillrange。Theheightoppositeextendsafewmilesfurtherwest，andthenbranchesoffinanortherlydirection。Afewsmallpiecesofcoalwerepickeduponthesandbanks，showingthatthisusefulmineralexistsontheRovuma，oronsomeofitstributaries:thenativesknowthatitwillburn。
AtthelakeletChidia，wenoticedthesamesandstonerock，withfossilwoodonit，whichwehaveontheZambesi，andknewtobeasureevidenceofcoalbeneath。WementionedthisatthetimetoCaptainGardner，andourfindingcoalnowseemedaverificationofwhatwethensaid；thecoal-fieldprobablyextendsfromtheZambesitotheRovuma，ifnotbeyondit。Someoftherockslowerdownhavethepermanentwater-linethreefeetabovethepresentheightofthewater。
AfewmileswestoftheMakoaofMatingula，wecameagainamongtheMakonde，butnowofgoodrepute。Warandslaveryhavedriventhemtoseekrefugeonthesand-banks。Avenerable-lookingoldmanhailedusaswepassed，andaskedusifweweregoingbywithoutspeaking。Welanded，andhelaiddownhisgunandcametous；hewasaccompaniedbyhisbrother，whoshookhandswitheveryoneintheboat，ashehadseenpeopledoatKilwa。\"Thenyouhaveseenwhitemenbefore？\"wesaid。\"Yes，\"repliedthepoliteAfrican，\"butneverpeopleofyourquality。”Thesemenwereveryblack，andworebutlittleclothing。
Ayoungwoman，dressedinthehigheststyleofMakondefashion，puntingasdexterouslyasamancould，broughtacanoefullofgirlstoseeus。Sheworeanornamentalhead-dressofredbeadstiedtoherhairononesideofherhead，anecklaceoffinebeadsofvariouscolours，twobrightfiguredbrassbraceletsonherleftarm，andscarcelyafarthing\'sworthofcloth，thoughitwasatitscheapest。
Aswepushedonwestwards，wefoundthattherivermakesalittlesouthing，andsomereachesweredeeperthananynearthesea；butwhenwehadascendedabout140milesbytheriver\'scoursefromthesea，softtufarocksbegantoappear；tenmilesbeyond，theriverbecamemorenarrowandrocky，andwhen，accordingtoourmeasurement，wehadascended156miles，ourfurtherprogresswasarrested。WewereratherlessthantwodegreesinastraightlinefromtheCoast。
Theincidentsworthnoticingwerebutfew:sevencanoeswithloadsofsaltandricekeptcompanywithusforsomedays，andthefurtherwewentinland，themorecivilthepeoplebecame。
Whenwecametoastand，justbelowtheislandofNyamatolo，Long。38
degrees36minutesE。，andLat。11degrees53minutes，theriverwasnarrow，andfullofrocks。Neartheislandthereisarockyrapidwithnarrowpassagesfitonlyfornativecanoes；thefallissmall，andthebanksquitelow；buttheserockswereaneffectualbarriertoallfurtherprogressinboats。Previousreportsrepresentedthenavigablepartofthisriverasextendingtothedistanceofamonth\'ssailfromitsmouth；wefoundthat，attheordinaryheightsofthewater，aboatmightreachtheobstructionswhichseempeculiartoallAfricanriversinsixoreightdays。TheRovumaisremarkableforthehighlandsthatflankitforsomeeightymilesfromtheocean。Thecataractsofotherriversoccurinmountains，thoseoftheRovumaarefoundinalevelpart，withhillsonlyinthedistance。Farawayinthewestandnorthwecouldseehighblueheights，probablyofigneousoriginfromtheirforms，risingoutofaplain。
ThedistancefromNgomano，aspotthirtymilesfurtherup，totheArabcrossing-placesofLakeNyassaTsengaorKotakotawassaidtobetwelvedays。ThewaywehaddiscoveredtoLakeNyassabyMurchison\'sCataractshadsomuchlesslandcarriage，thatweconsidereditbesttotakeoursteamerthither，bytherouteinwhichwewerewellknown，insteadofworkingwherewewerestrangers；andaccordinglywemadeupourmindstoreturn。
Thenativesreportedaworseplaceaboveourturning-point——thepassagebeingstillnarrowerthanthis。AnArab，theysaid，oncebuiltaboatabovetherapids，andsentitdownfullofslaves；butitwasbrokentopiecesintheseuppernarrows。ManystillmaintainedthattheRovumacamefromNyassa，andthatitisverynarrowasitissuesoutofthelake。Onemandeclaredthathehadseenitwithhisowneyesasitleftthelake，andseemeddispleasedatbeingcross-questioned，asifwedoubtedhisveracity。
Moresatisfactoryinformation，asitappearedtous，wasobtainedfromothers。Twodays，orthirtymiles，beyondwhereweturnedback，theRovumaisjoinedbytheLiende，which，comingfromthesouth-
west，risesinthemountainsontheeastsideofNyassa。ThegreatslaveroutetoKilwarunsupthebanksofthisriver，whichisonlyankle-deepatthedryseasonoftheyear。TheRovumaitselfcomesfromtheW。N。W。，andafterthetravellerpassestheconfluenceoftheLiendeatNgomanoor\"meeting-place，\"thechiefofwhichpartisnamedNdonde，hefindstherivernarrow，andthepeopleAjawa。
CrocodilesintheRovumahaveasorrytimeofit。Neverbeforewerereptilessopersecutedandsnubbed。Theyarehuntedwithspears，andspringtrapsaresetforthem。Ifoneofthementersaninvitingpoolafterfish，hesoonfindsafencethrownroundit，andaspringtrapsetintheonlypathoutoftheenclosure。Theirfleshiseaten，andrelished。Thebanks，onwhichthefemalelayshereggsbynight，arecarefullysearchedbyday，andalltheeggsdugoutanddevoured。Thefish-hawkmakeshavocamongthefewyoungonesthatescapetheirotherenemies。Ourmenwereconstantlyonthelook-outforcrocodiles\'nests。Onewasfoundcontainingthirty-fivenewly-
laideggs，andtheydeclaredthatthecrocodilewouldlayasmanymorethesecondnightinanotherplace。Theeggswereafootdeepinthesandonthetopofabanktenfeethigh。Theanimaldigsaholewithitsfoot，coverstheeggs，andleavesthemtilltheriverrisesoverthenestinaboutthreemonthsafterwards，whenshecomesback，andassiststheyoungonesout。WeoncesawoppositeTetteyoungcrocodilesinDecember，swimmingbesideanislandincompanywithanoldone。Theyolkoftheeggisnearlyaswhiteastherealwhite。
Intastetheyresemblehen\'seggswithperhapsasmackofcustard，andwouldbeashighlyrelishedbywhitesasbyblacks，wereitnotfortheirunsavouryorigininmen-eaters。
HuntingtheSenze(AulacodusSwindernianus)，ananimalthesizeofalargecat，butinshapemorelikeapig，wasthechiefbusinessofmenandboysaswepassedthereedybanksandlowislands。Theysetfiretoamassofreeds，and，armedwithsticks，spears，bowsandarrows，standingroupsguardingtheoutletsthroughwhichthesearedSenzemayrunfromtheapproachingflames。Darkdensevolumesofimpenetrablesmokenowrolloverontheleesideoftheislet，andshroudthehunters。Attimesvastsheetsofluridflamesburstingforth，roaring，cracklingandexploding，leapwildlyfarabovethetallreeds。Outrushtheterrifiedanimals，andamidthesmokeareseentheexcitedhuntersdancingaboutwithfranticgesticulations，andhurlingstick，spear，andarrowattheirburnedoutvictims。
Kiteshoveroverthesmoke，readytopounceonthemantisandlocustsastheyspringfromthefire。Smallcrowsandhundredsofswallowsareoneagerwing，dartingintothesmokeandoutagain，seizingfugitiveflies。Scoresofinsects，intheirhastetoescapefromthefire，jumpintotheriver，andtheactivefishenjoyararefeast。
Wereturnedtothe\"Pioneer\"onthe9thofOctober，havingbeenawayonemonth。Theship\'scompanyhaduseddistilledwater，acondenserhavingbeensentoutfromEngland；andtherehadnotbeenasinglecaseofsicknessonboardsinceweleft，thoughthereweresomanycasesoffeverthefewdaysshelayinthesamespotlastyear。Ourboatpartydrankthewateroftheriver，andthethreewhitesailors，whohadneverbeeninanAfricanriverbefore，hadsomeslightattacksoffever。
CHAPTERXII。
ReturntotheZambesi——BishopMackenzie\'sgrave——Frightfulsceneswithcrocodiles——DeathofMr。Thornton——Africanpoisons——RecalloftheExpedition。
Weputtoseaonthe18thofOctober，and，againtouchingatJohanna，obtainedacrewofJohannamenandsomeoxen，andsailedfortheZambesi；butourfuelfailingbeforewereachedit，andthewindbeingcontrary，weranintoQuillimaneforwood。
Quillimanemusthavebeenbuiltsolelyforthesakeofcarryingontheslave-trade，fornomaninhissenseswouldeverhavedreamedofplacingavillageonsuchalow，muddy，fever-haunted，andmosquito-
swarmingsite，haditnotbeenforthefacilitiesitaffordedforslaving。Thebarmayatspringsandfloodsbeeasilycrossedbysailing-vessels，but，beingfarfromtheland，itisalwaysdangerousforboats。Slaves，underthenameof\"freeemigrants，\"havegonebythousandsfromQuillimane，duringthelastsixyears，totheportsalittletothesouth，particularlytoMassangano。Someexcellentbrick-housesstillstandintheplace，andtheownersaregenerousandhospitable:amongthemourgoodfriend，ColonelNunez。Hisdisinterestedkindnesstousandtoallourcountrymencanneverbeforgotten。Heisanobleexampleofwhatenergyanduprightnessmayaccomplishevenhere。Hecameoutasacabin-boy，and，withoutasinglefriendtohelphim，hehasperseveredinanhonourablecourseuntilheistherichestmanontheEastCoast。WhenDr。LivingstonecamedowntheZambesiin1856，ColonelNunezwasthechiefoftheonlyfourhonourable，trustworthymeninthecountry。Butwhilehehasrisenawholeherdhassunk，makingloudlamentations，throughpuffsofcigar-smoke，overnegrolaziness；theymightadd，theirown。
AllagriculturalenterpriseisvirtuallydiscouragedbyQuillimaneGovernment。AmanmustpurchaseapermitfromtheGovernor，whenhewishestovisithiscountryfarm；andthistax，inacountrywherelabourisunpopular，causesthefarmstobealmostentirelyleftinthehandsofaheadslave，whomakesreturnstohismasterasinterestorhonestypromptshim。ApassportmustalsobeboughtwheneveramanwishestogouptherivertoMazaro，Senna，orTette，oreventoresideforamonthatQuillimane。Withasoilandaclimatewellsuitedforthegrowthofthecane，abundanceofslavelabour，andwatercommunicationtoanymarketintheworld，theyhavenevermadetheirownsugar。AlltheyuseisimportedfromBombay。
\"ThepeopleofQuillimanehavenoenterprise，\"saidayoungEuropeanPortuguese，\"theydonothing，andarealwayswastingtheirtimeinsuffering，orinrecoveringfromfever。”
