WeenteredtheZambesiabouttheendofNovemberandfounditunusuallylow，sowedidnotgetuptoShupangatillthe19thofDecember。ThefriendsofourMazaromen，whohadnowbecomegoodsailorsandveryattentiveservants，turnedoutandgavethemaheartywelcomebackfromtheperilsofthesea:theyhadbeguntofearthattheywouldneverreturn。Wehiredthematasixteen-yardpieceofclothamonth——abouttenshillings\'worth，thePortuguesemarket-priceoftheclothbeingthensevenpencehalfpennyayard，——
andpaidthemfivepieceseach，forfour-and-a-halfmonths\'work。A
merchantatthesametimepaidotherMazaromenthreepiecesforsevenmonths，andtheywerewithhimintheinterior。Ifthemerchantsdonotprosper，itisnotbecauselabourisdear，butbecauseitisscarce，andbecausetheyaresoeageroneveryoccasiontoselltheworkmenoutofthecountry。Ourmenhadalsoreceivedquantitiesofgoodclothesfromthesailorsofthe\"Pioneer\"andofthe\"Orestes，\"andwerenowregardedbytheirneighboursandbythemselvesasmenofimportance。Neverbeforehadtheypossessedsomuchwealth:theybelievedthattheymightsettleinlife，beingnowofsufficientstandingtowarranttheirenteringthemarriedstate；
andawifeandahutwereamongtheirfirstinvestments。Sixteenyardswerepaidtothewife\'sparents，andahutcostfouryards。Weshouldhavelikedtohavekeptthemintheship，fortheywerewell-
behavedandhadlearnedagreatdealoftheworkrequired。Thoughtheywouldnotthemselvesgoagain，theyengagedothersforus；andbroughttwiceasmanyaswecouldtake，oftheirbrothersandcousins，whowereeagertojointheshipandgowithusuptheShire，oranywhereelse。Theyallagreedtotakehalf-payuntiltheytoohadlearnedtowork；andwefoundnoscarcityoflabour，thoughallthatcouldbeexportedisnowoutofthecountry。
TherehadbeenadroughtofunusualseverityduringthepastseasoninthecountrybetweenLupataandKebrabasa，andithadextendednorth-easttotheManganjahighlands。AlltheTetteslaves，exceptaveryfewhouseholdones，hadbeendrivenawaybyhunger，andwerenowfaroffinthewoods，andwhereverwildfruit，ortheprospectofobtaininganythingwhatevertokeepthebreathoflifeinthem，wastobefound。Theirmastersweresaidnevertoexpecttoseethemagain。TherehavebeentwoyearsofgreathungeratTettesincewehavebeeninthecountry，andafaminelikethepresentprevailedin1854，whenthousandsdiedofstarvation。IfmenliketheCapefarmersownedthiscountry，theirenergyandenterprisewouldsoonrenderthecropsindependentofrain。Therebeingplentyofslopeorfall，thelandcouldbeeasilyirrigatedfromtheZambesianditstributarystreams。APortuguesecolonycanneverprosper:itisusedasapenalsettlement，andeverythingmustbedonemilitaryfashion。\"WhatdoIcareforthiscountry？\"saidthemostenterprisingoftheTettemerchants，\"allIwantistomakemoneyassoonpossible，andthengotoBombayandenjoyit。”AllbusinessatTettewasnowsuspended。Carrierscouldnotbefoundtotakethegoodsintotheinterior，andthemerchantscouldbarelyobtainfoodfortheirownfamilies。AtMazaromorerainhadfallen，andatolerablecropfollowed。ThepeopleofShupangawerecollectinganddryingdifferentwildfruits，nearlyallofwhicharefarfrompalatabletoaEuropeantaste。Therootofasmallcreepercalled\"bise\"isdugupandeaten。Inappearanceitisnotunlikethesmallwhitesweetpotato，andhasalittleoftheflavourofourpotato。
Itwouldbeverygood，ifitwereonlyalittlelarger。Fromanothertuber，called\"ulanga，\"verygoodstarchcanbemade。AfewmilesfromShupangathereisanabundanceoflargegame，butthepeoplehere，thoughfondenoughofmeat，arenotahuntingrace，andseldomkillany。
TheShirehavingrisen，westeamedoffonthe10thofJanuary，1863，withthe\"LadyNyassa\"intow。ItwasnotlongbeforewecameupontheravagesofthenotoriousMariano。Thesurvivorsofasmallhamlet，atthefootofMorambala，wereinastateofstarvation，havinglosttheirfoodbyoneofhismaraudingparties。Thewomenwereinthefieldscollectinginsects，roots，wildfruits，andwhatevercouldbeeaten，inordertodragontheirlives，ifpossible，tillthenextcropshouldberipe。Twocanoespassedus，thathadbeenrobbedbyMariano\'sbandofeverythingtheyhadinthem；theownersweregatheringpalm-nutsfortheirsubsistence。
Theyworepalm-leafaprons，astherobbershadstrippedthemoftheirclothingandornaments。Deadbodiesfloatedpastusdaily，andinthemorningsthepaddleshadtobeclearedofcorpses，caughtbythefloatsduringthenight。ForscoresofmilestheentirepopulationofthevalleywassweptawaybythisscourgeMariano，whoisagain，ashewasbefore，thegreatPortugueseslave-agent。Itmadetheheartachetoseethewidespreaddesolation；theriver-banks，oncesopopulous，allsilent；thevillagesburneddown，andanoppressivestillnessreigningwhereformerlycrowdsofeagersellersappearedwiththevariousproductsoftheirindustry。Hereandtheremightbeseenonthebankasmalldrearydesertedshed，wherehadsat，dayafterday，astarvingfisherman，untiltherisingwatersdrovethefishfromtheirwontedhaunts，andlefthimtodie。Tinganehadbeendefeated；hispeoplehadbeenkilled，kidnapped，andforcedtofleefromtheirvillages。TherewereafewwretchedsurvivorsinavillageabovetheRuo；butthemajorityofthepopulationwasdead。
Thesightandsmellofdeadbodieswaseverywhere。Manyskeletonslaybesidethepath，whereintheirweaknesstheyhadfallenandexpired。Ghastlylivingformsofboysandgirls，withdulldeadeyes，werecrouchingbesidesomeofthehuts。Afewmoremiserabledaysoftheirterriblehunger，andtheywouldbewiththedead。
Oppressedwiththeshockingscenesaround，wevisitedtheBishop\'sgrave；andthoughitmatterslittlewhereagoodChristian\'sashesrest，yetitwaswithsadnessthatwethoughtoverthehopeswhichhadclusteredaroundhim，ashelefttheclassicgroundsofCambridge，allnowburiedinthiswildplace。Howitwouldhavetornhiskindlyhearttowitnessthesightswenowwereforcedtosee!
Ingivingventtothenaturalfeelingsofregret，thatamansoeminentlyendowedandlearned，aswasBishopMackenzie，shouldhavebeensosooncutoff，somehaveexpressedanopinionthatitwaswrongtouseaninstrumentsovaluableMERELYtoconverttheheathen。
Iftheattemptistobemadeatall，itis\"pennywiseandpoundfoolish\"toemployanybuttheverybestmen，andthosewhoarespeciallyeducatedforthework。Anordinaryclergyman，howeverwellsuitedforaparish，willnot，withoutspecialtraining，makeaMissionary；andastotheircomparativeusefulness，itislikethatofthemanwhobuildsanhospital，ascomparedwiththatofthesurgeonwhoinafteryearsonlyadministersforatimetheremedieswhichthefounderhadprovidedinperpetuity。HadtheBishopsucceededinintroducingChristianity，hisconvertsmighthavebeenfew，buttheywouldhaveformedacontinuousrollforalltimetocome。
TheShirefelltwofeet，beforewereachedtheshallowcrossingwherewehadformerlysuchdifficulty，andwehadnowtwoshipstotakeup。
Ahippopotamuswasshottwomilesaboveabankonwhichtheshiplayafortnight:itfloatedinthreehours。Astheboatwastowingitdown，thecrocodileswereattractedbythedeadbeast，andseveralshotshadtobefiredtokeepthemoff。Thebullethadnotenteredthebrainoftheanimal，butdrivenasplinterofboneintoit。A
littlemoisturewithsomegasissuedfromthewound，andthiswasallthatcouldtellthecrocodilesdownthestreamofadeadhippopotamus；andyettheycameupfrommilesbelow。Theirsenseofsmellmustbeasacuteastheirhearing；botharequiteextraordinary。Dozensfedonthemeatweleft。OurKrooman，Jumbo，usedtoassertthatthecrocodilenevereatsfreshmeat，butalwayskeepsittillitishighandtender——andthestrongeritsmellsthebetterhelikesit。Thereseemstobesometruthinthis。Theycanswallowbutsmallpiecesatatime，andfinditdifficulttotearfreshmeat。Intheactofswallowing，whichislikethatofadog，theheadisraisedoutofthewater。Wetriedtocatchsome，andonewassoonhooked；itrequiredhalf-a-dozenhandstohaulhimuptheriver，andtheshark-hookstraightened，andhegotaway。Alargeironhookwasnextmade，but，asthecreaturescouldnotswallowit，theirjawssoonpresseditstraight——andourcrocodile-fishingwasafailure。Asonemightexpect，——fromthepowerevenofasalmon——thetugofacrocodilewasterriblystrong。
Thecorpseofaboyfloatedpasttheship；amonstrouscrocodilerushedatitwiththespeedofagreyhound，caughtitandshookit，asaterrierdogdoesarat。Othersdashedattheprey，eachwithhispowerfultailcausingthewatertochurnandfroth，ashefuriouslytoreoffapiece。Inafewsecondsitwasallgone。Thesightwasfrightfultobehold。TheShireswarmedwithcrocodiles；wecountedsixty-sevenoftheserepulsivereptilesonasinglebank，buttheyarenotasfierceastheyareinsomerivers。\"Crocodiles，\"
saysCaptainTuckey，\"aresoplentifulintheCongo，neartherapids，andsofrequentlycarryoffthewomen，whoatdaylightgodowntotheriverforwater，that，whiletheyarefillingtheircalabashes，oneofthepartyisusuallyemployedinthrowinglargestonesintothewateroutside。”Here，eitheracalabashonalongpoleisusedindrawingwater，orafenceisplanted。Thenativeseatthecrocodile，buttoustheideaoftastingthemusky-scented，fishy-lookingfleshcarriedtheideaofcannibalism。Humboldtremarks，thatinSouthAmericathealligatorsofsomeriversaremoredangerousthaninothers。Alligatorsdifferfromcrocodilesinthefourthorcaninetoothgoingintoaholeorsocketintheupperjaw，whileinthecrocodileitfitsintoanotch。Theforefootofthecrocodilehasfivetoesnotwebbed，thehindfoothasfourtoeswhicharewebbed；inthealligatorthewebisaltogetherwanting。Theyaresomuchalikethattheywouldnodoubtbreedtogether。
Oneofthecrocodileswhichwasshothadapiecesnappedofftheendofhistail，anotherhadlostaforefootinfighting；wesawactualleechesbetweentheteeth，suchasarementionedbyHerodotus，butweneverwitnessedtheploverpickingthemout。Theirgreaterfiercenessinonepartofthecountrythananotherisdoubtlessowingtoascarcityoffish；infact，CaptainTuckeysays，ofthatpartoftheCongo，mentionedabove，\"Therearenofishherebutcatfish，\"andwefoundthatthelakecrocodiles，livinginclearwater，andwithplentyoffish，scarcelyeverattackedman。TheShireteemswithfishofmanydifferentkinds。Theonlytime，asalreadyremarked，whenitscrocodilesareparticularlytobedreaded，iswhentheriverisinflood。Thenthefisharedrivenfromtheirusualhaunts，andnogamecomesdowntotherivertodrink，waterbeingabundantinpoolsinland。Hungernowimpelsthecrocodiletolieinwaitforthewomenwhocometodrawwater，andontheZambesinumbersarecarriedoffeveryyear。Thedangerisnotsogreatatotherseasons；thoughitisneversafetobathe，ortostooptodrink，whereonecannotseethebottom，especiallyintheevening。OneoftheMakololorandownintheduskoftheriver；and，ashewasbusytossingthewatertohismouthwithhishand，inthemannerpeculiartothenatives，acrocodilerosesuddenlyfromthebottom，andcaughthimbythehand。
Thelimbofatreewasfortunatelywithinreach，andhehadpresenceofmindtolayholdofit。Bothtuggedandpulled；thecrocodileforhisdinner，andthemanfordearlife。Foratimeitappeareddoubtfulwhetheradinneroralifewastobesacrificed；butthemanheldon，andthemonsterletthehandgo，leavingthedeepmarksofhisuglyteethinit。
Duringourdetention，inexpectationofthepermanentriseoftheriverinMarch，Dr。KirkandMr。C。Livingstonecollectednumbersofthewading-birdsofthemarshes——andmadepleasantadditionstooursaltedprovisions，ingeese，ducks，andhippopotamusflesh。Oneofthecomborknob-nosedgeese，onbeingstrangledinordertohaveitsskinpreservedwithoutinjury，continuedtobreatheaudiblybythebrokenhumerus，orwing-bone，andothermeanshadtobeadoptedtoputitoutofpain。Thiswasasifamanonthegallowsweretocontinuetobreathebyabrokenarmbone，andaffordedusanillustrationofthefact，thatinbirds，thevitalairpenetrateseverypartoftheinterioroftheirbodies。Thebreathpassesthroughandroundaboutthelungs——bathesthesurfacesoftheviscera，andentersthecavitiesofthebones；itevenpenetratesintosomespacesbetweenthemusclesoftheneck——andthusnotonlyisthemostperfectoxygenationofthebloodsecured，but，thetemperatureofthebloodbeingveryhigh，theairineverypartisrarefied，andthegreatlightnessandvigourprovidedfor，thatthehabitsofbirdsrequire。SeveralbirdswerefoundbyDr。Kirktohavemarrowinthetibiae，thoughthesebonesaregenerallydescribedashollow。
DuringtheperiodofourdetentionontheshallowpartoftheriverinMarch，Mr。ThorntoncameuptousfromShupanga:hehad，asbeforenarrated，lefttheExpeditionin1859，andjoinedBaronvanderDecken，inthejourneytoKilimanjaro，when，byanascentofthemountaintotheheightof8000feet，itwasfirstprovedtobecoveredwithperpetualsnow，andthepreviousinformationrespectingit，givenbytheChurchofEnglandMissionaries，KrapfandRebman，confirmed。ItisnowwellknownthattheBaronsubsequentlyascendedtheKilimanjaroto14，000feet，andascertaineditshighestpeaktobeatleast20，000feetabovethesea。Mr。Thorntonmadethemapofthefirstjourney，atShupanga，frommaterialscollectedwhenwiththeBaron；andwhenthatworkwasaccomplished，followedus。HewasthendirectedtoexaminegeologicallytheCataractdistrict，butnottoexposehimselftocontactwiththeAjawauntilthefeelingsofthattribeshouldbeascertained。
ThemembersofBishopMackenzie\'sparty，onthelossoftheirhead，fellbackfromMagomeroonthehighlands，toChibisa\'s，inthelow-
lyingShireValley；andThornton，findingthemsufferingfromwantofanimalfood，kindlyvolunteeredtogoacrossthencetoTette，andbringasupplyofgoatsandsheep。Wewerenotawareofthisstep，towhichthegenerosityofhisnaturepromptedhim，tilltwodaysafterhehadstarted。InadditiontosecuringsuppliesfortheUniversities\'Mission，hebroughtsomefortheExpedition，andtookbearings，bywhichhehopedtoconnecthisformerworkatTettewiththemountainsintheShiredistrict。Thetoilofthisjourneywastoomuchforhisstrength，aswiththeadditionofgreatscarcityofwater，ithadbeenforthatofDr。KirkandRae，andhereturnedinasadlyhaggardandexhaustedcondition；diarrhoeasupervened，andthatendedindysenteryandfever，whichterminatedfatallyonthe21stofApril，1863。HereceivedtheunremittingattentionsofDr。Kirk，andDr。Meller，surgeonofthe\"Pioneer，\"duringthefortnightofhisillness；andashehadsufferedverylittlefromfever，oranyotherdisease，inAfrica，wehadentertainedstronghopesthathisyouthandunimpairedconstitutionwouldhavecarriedhimthrough。Duringthenightofthe20thhismindwanderedsomuch，thatwecouldnotascertainhislastwishes；andonthemorningofthe21st，toourgreatsorrow，hedied。Hewasburiedonthe22nd，nearalargetreeontherightbankoftheShire，aboutfivehundredyardsfromthelowestoftheMurchisonCataracts——andclosetoarivulet，atwhichthe\"LadyNyassa\"and\"Pioneer\"lay。
NowordscanconveyanadequateideaofthesceneofwidespreaddesolationwhichtheoncepleasantShireValleynowpresented。
Insteadofsmilingvillagesandcrowdsofpeoplecomingwiththingsforsale，scarcelyasoulwastobeseen；and，whenbychanceonelightedonanative，hisframeboretheimpressofhunger，andhiscountenancethelookofacringingbroken-spiritedness。Adroughthadvisitedthelandaftertheslave-huntingpanicsweptoverit。
Haditbeenpossibletoconceivethethoroughdepopulationwhichhadensued，weshouldhaveavoidedcominguptheriver。LargemassesofthepeoplehadfleddowntotheShire，onlyanxioustogettheriverbetweenthemandtheirenemies。Mostofthefoodhadbeenleftbehind；andfamineandstarvationhadcutoffsomany，thattheremainderweretoofewtoburythedead。Thecorpseswesawfloatingdowntheriverwereonlyaremnantofthosethathadperished，whomtheirfriends，fromweakness，couldnotbury，norover-gorgedcrocodilesdevour。Itistruethatfaminecausedagreatportionofthiswasteofhumanlife:buttheslave-trademustbedeemedthechiefagentintheruin，because，aswewereinformed，informerdroughtsallthepeopleflockedfromthehillsdowntothemarshes，whicharecapableofyieldingcropsofmaizeinlessthanthreemonths，atanytimeoftheyear，andnowtheywereafraidtodoso。
Afew，encouragedbytheMissionintheattempttocultivate，hadtheirlittlepatchesrobbedassuccessiveswarmsoffugitivescamefromthehills。Whocanblametheseoutcastsfromhouseandhomeforstealingtosavetheirwretchedlives，orwonderthattheownersprotectedthelittleall，onwhichtheirownlivesdepended，withclubandspear？WewereinformedbyMr。WallerofthedreadfulblightwhichhadbefallentheoncesmilingShireValley。Hiswords，thoughstrong，failedtoimpressuswiththereality。Infact，theywerereceived，assomemayacceptourown，astingedwithexaggeration；butwhenoureyesbeheldthelastmeredribletsofthiscupofwoe，weforthefirsttimefeltthattheenormouswrongsinflictedonourfellow-menbyslavingarebeyondexaggeration。
Whereverwetookawalk，humanskeletonswereseenineverydirection，anditwaspainfullyinterestingtoobservethedifferentposturesinwhichthepoorwretcheshadbreathedtheirlast。Awholeheaphadbeenthrowndownaslopebehindavillage，wherethefugitivesoftencrossedtheriverfromtheeast；andinonehutofthesamevillagenofewerthantwentydrumshadbeencollected，probablytheferryman\'sfees。Manyhadendedtheirmiseryundershadytrees——othersunderprojectingcragsinthehills——whileotherslayintheirhuts，withcloseddoors，whichwhenopeneddisclosedthemoulderingcorpsewiththepoorragsroundtheloins——theskullfallenoffthepillow——thelittleskeletonofthechild，thathadperishedfirst，rolledupinamatbetweentwolargeskeletons。Thesightofthisdesert，buteighteenmonthsagoawellpeopledvalley，nowliterallystrewnwithhumanbones，forcedtheconvictionuponus，thatthedestructionofhumanlifeinthemiddlepassage，howevergreat，constitutesbutasmallportionofthewaste，andmadeusfeelthatunlesstheslave-trade——thatmonsteriniquity，whichhassolongbroodedoverAfrica——isputdown，lawfulcommercecannotbeestablished。
Webelievedthat，ifitwerepossibletogetasteamerupontheLake，wecouldbyhermeansputacheckontheslaversfromtheEastCoast；
andaidmoreeffectuallystillinthesuppressionoftheslave-trade，byintroducing，bywayoftheRovuma，alawfultrafficinivory。Wethereforeunscrewedthe\"LadyNyassa\"atarivuletaboutfivehundredyardsbelowthefirstcataract，andbegantomakearoadoverthethirty-fiveorfortymilesoflandportage，bywhichtocarryheruppiecemeal。Aftermatureconsideration，wecouldnotimagineamorenobleworkofbenevolence，thanthustointroducelightandlibertyintoaquarterofthisfairearth，whichhumanlusthasconvertedintothenearestpossibleresemblanceofwhatweconceivetheinfernalregionstobe——andwesacrificedmuchofourprivateresourcesasanofferingforthepromotionofsogoodacause。
Thechiefpartofthelabourofroad-makingconsistedincuttingdowntreesandremovingstones。Thecountrybeingcoveredwithopenforest，asmalltreehadtobecutabouteveryfiftyorsixtyyards。
Thelandneartheriverwassoverymuchintersectedbyravines，thatsearchhadtobemade，amilefromitsbanks，formorelevelground。
ExperiencedHottentotdriverswouldhavetakenCapewagonswithoutanyothertroublethanthatofoccasionallycuttingdownatree。Notsetseinfestedthisdistrict，andthecattlebroughtfromJohannaflourishedontheabundantpasture。Thefirsthalf-mileofroadledup，byagradualslope，toanaltitudeoftwohundredfeetabovetheship，andasensibledifferenceofclimatewasfelteventhere。Fortheremainderofthedistancetheheightincreased，——till，attheuppermostcataract，weweremorethan1200feetabovethesea。Thecountryhere，havingrecoveredfromtheeffectsofthedrought，wasbrightwithyounggreenwoodland，andmountainsofthesamerefreshinghue。Buttheabsenceofthecrowds，whichhadattendedusaswecarrieduptheboat，whenthewomenfollowedusformileswithfinemeal，vegetables，andfatfowlsforsale，andtheboyswereeverreadyforalittlejob——andtheoppressivestillnessboreheavilyonourspirits。ThePortugueseofTettehadveryeffectuallyremovedourlabourers。Notanounceoffreshprovisionscouldbeobtained，exceptwhatcouldbeshot，andeventhefoodforournativecrewhadtobebroughtonehundredandfiftymilesfromtheZambesi。
Thedietofsaltprovisionsandpreservedmeatswithoutvegetables，withthedepressionofspiritscausedbyseeinghoweffectuallyafewwretchedconvicts，aidedbytheconnivanceofofficials，ofwhombettermighthavebeenhoped，couldcounteractourbestefforts，andturnintendedgoodtocertainevil，broughtonattacksofdysentery，whichwenttheroundoftheExpedition——and，Dr。KirkandCharlesLivingstonehavingsufferedmostseverely，itwasdeemedadvisablethattheyshouldgohome。Thismeasurewasnecessary，thoughmuchtotheregretofall——forhavingdonesomuch，theywerenaturallyanxioustobepresent，when，bytheestablishingourselvesontheLake，alloureffortsshouldbecrownedwithsuccess。Afterithadbeendecidedthatthesetwoofficers，andallthewhiteswhocouldbespared，shouldbesentdowntotheseaforapassagetoEngland，Dr。
LivingstonewasseizedinMaywithasevereattackofdysentery，whichcontinuedforamonth，andreducedhimtoashadow。Dr。Kirkkindlyremainedinattendancetilltheworstwaspassed。Thepartingtookplaceonthe19thofMay。
Afterafewmilesofroadwerecompleted，andtheoxenbrokenin，weresolvedtotryandrenderourselvesindependentofthesouthforfreshprovisions，bygoinginaboatuptheShire，abovetheCataracts，tothetribesatthefootofLakeNyassa，whowerestilluntouchedbytheAjawainvasion。InfurtheranceofthisplanDr。
LivingstoneandMr。Raedeterminedtowalkuptoexamine，and，ifneedbe，mendtheboatwhichhadbeenlefttwoseasonspreviouslyhunguptothelimbofalargeshadytree，beforeattemptingtocarryanotherpasttheCataracts。The\"Pioneer，\"whichwastobeleftinchargeofouractiveandmosttrustworthygunner，Mr。EdwardD。
Young，R。N。，wasthoroughlyroofedoverwitheuphorbiabranchesandgrass，soascompletelytoprotectherdecksfromthesun:shealsoreceiveddailyadueamountofman-of-warscrubbingandwashing；and，besideshavingeverythingputinshipshapefashion，waseveryeveningswungoutintothemiddleoftheriver，forthesakeofthegreateramountofairwhichcirculatedthere。Inadditiontotheirdailyroutineworkoftheship，thethreestokers，onesailor，andonecarpenter——nowourcomplement——wereencouragedtohuntforguinea-
fowl，whichinJune，whenthewaterinlandisdriedup，comeinlargeflockstotheriver\'sbanks，androostonthetreesatnight。
Everythingthatcanbedonetokeepmindandbodyemployedtendstopreventfever。
Whilewewereemployedintheseoperations，someofthepoorstarvedpeopleabouthadbeeninthehabitofcrossingtheriver，andreapingtheself-sownmapira，intheoldgardensoftheircountrymen。Intheafternoonofthe9th，acanoecamefloatingdownempty，andshortlyafterawomanwasseenswimmingneartheotherside，whichwasabouttwohundredyardsdistantfromus。Ournativecrewmannedtheboat，andrescuedher；whenbroughtonboard，shewasfoundtohaveanarrow-head，eightortenincheslong，inherback，belowtheribs，andslantingupthroughthediaphragmandleftlung，towardstheheart——shehadbeenshotfrombehindwhenstooping。Airwascomingoutofthewound，and，therebeingbutaninchofthebarbedarrow-
headvisible，itwasthoughtbetternottoruntheriskofherdyingundertheoperationnecessaryforitsremoval；sowecarriedheruptoherownhut。Oneofherrelativeswaslessscrupulous，forhecutoutthearrowandpartofthelung。Mr。Youngsentheroccasionallyportionsofnativecorn，andstrangetosayfoundthatshenotonlybecamewell，butstout。Theconstitutionofthesepeopleseemstohaveawonderfulpowerofself-repair——anditcouldbenoslightprivationwhichhadcutoffthemanythousandsthatwesawdeadaroundus。
Weregrettedthat，inconsequenceofDr。Mellerhavingnowsolemedicalcharge，wecouldnothavehiscompanyinourprojectedtrip；
buthefoundemploymentinbotanyandnaturalhistory，aftertheannualsicklyseasonofMarch，April，andMaywasover；andhisconstantpresencewasnotsomuchrequiredattheship。Laterintheyear，whenhecouldbewellspared，hewentdowntherivertotakeupanappointmenthehadbeenofferedinMadagascar；butunfortunatelywassoseverelytriedbyillnesswhiledetainedatthecoast，thatfornearlytwoyearshewasnotabletoturnhisabilitiesasanaturalisttoaccountbyproceedingtothatisland。Wehavenodoubtbuthewillyetdistinguishhimselfinthatuntroddenfield。
Onthe16thofJunewestartedfortheUpperCataracts，withamule-
cart，ourroadlyingadistanceofamilewestfromtheriver。Wesawmanyofthedeserteddwellingsofthepeoplewhoformerlycametous；andwereverymuchstruckbytheextentoflandundercultivation，thoughthat，comparedwiththewholecountry，isverysmall。Largepatchesofmapiracontinuedtogrow，——asitissaiditdoesfromtherootsforthreeyears。ThemapirawasmixedwithtallbushesoftheCongo-bean，castor-oilplants，andcotton。Thelargestpatchofthiskindwepaced，andfoundittobesixhundredandthirtypacesononeside——therestwerefromoneacretothree，andmanynotmorethanone-thirdofanacre。Thecotton——ofverysuperiorquality——wasnowdroppingoffthebushes，tobelefttorot——
therewasnoonetogatherwhatwouldhavebeenofsomuchvalueinLancashire。Thehuts，inthedifferentvillagesweentered，werestandingquiteperfect。Themortarsforpoundingcorn——thestonesforgrindingit——thewaterandbeerpots——theemptycorn-safesandkitchenutensils，werealluntouched；andmostofthedoorswereshut，asifthestarvingownershadgoneouttowanderinsearchofrootsorfruitsintheforest，andhadneverreturned。Whenopened，severalhutsrevealedaghastlysightofhumanskeletons。Somewereseeninsuchunnaturalpositions，astogivetheideathattheyhadexpiredinafaint，whentryingtoreachsomethingtoallaythegnawingsofhunger。
WetookseveralofthemenasfarastheMukuru-Madseforthesakeofthechangeofairandforoccupation，andalsotosecurefortheshipsasupplyofbuffalomeat——asthoseanimalswerereportedtobeinabundanceonthatstream。Butthoughitwasevidentfromthetracksthatthereportwastrue，itwasimpossibletogetaglimpseofthem。Thegrassbeingtallerthanwewere，andprettythicklyplanted，theyalwaysknewofourapproachbeforewesawthem。Andthefirstintimationwehadoftheirbeingnearwasthesoundtheymadeinrushingoverthestones，breakingthebranches，andknockingtheirhornsagainsteachother。Once，whenseekingafordforthecart，atsunrise，wesawaherdslowlywendingupthehill-sidefromthewater。Sendingforarifle，andstalkingwithintenseeagernessforafatbeefsteak，insteadofourusualfareofsaltedprovisions，wegotsonearthatwecouldhearthebullsutteringtheirhoarsedeeplow，butcouldseenothingexceptthemassofyellowgrassinfront；suddenlythebuffalo-birdssoundedtheiralarm-whistle，andawaydashedthetroop，andwegotsightofneitherbirdsnorbeasts。
Thiswouldbenocountryforasportsmanexceptwhenthegrassisshort。Theanimalsarewary，fromthedreadtheyhaveofthepoisonedarrows。Thoseofthenativeswhodohuntaredeeplyimbuedwiththehuntingspirit，andfollowthegamewithastealthyperseveranceandcunning，quiteextraordinary。Thearrowmakingnonoise，theherdisfollowedupuntilthepoisontakeseffect，andthewoundedanimalfallsout。Itisthenpatientlywatchedtillitdrops——aportionofmeatroundthewoundiscutaway，andalltheresteaten。
Poisonedarrowsaremadeintwopieces。Anironbarbisfirmlyfastenedtooneendofasmallwandofwood，teninchesorafootlong，theotherendofwhich，fineddowntoalongpoint，isnicelyfitted，thoughnototherwisesecured，inthehollowofthereed，whichformsthearrowshaft。Thewoodimmediatelybelowtheironheadissmearedwiththepoison。Whenthearrowisshotintoananimal，thereedeitherfallstothegroundatonce，orisverysoonbrushedoffbythebushes；buttheironbarbandpoisonedupperpartofthewoodremaininthewound。Ifmadeinonepiece，thearrowwouldoftenbetornout，headandall，bythelongshaftcatchingintheunderwood，orstrikingagainsttrees。Thepoisonusedhere，andcalledkombi，isobtainedfromaspeciesofstrophanthus，andisveryvirulent。Dr。Kirkfoundbyanaccidentalexperimentonhimselfthatitactsbyloweringthepulse。Inusinghistooth-brush，whichhadbeeninapocketcontainingalittleofthepoison，henoticedabittertaste，butattributedittohishavingsometimesused，thehandleintakingquinine。Thoughthequantitywassmall，itimmediatelyshoweditspowerbyloweringhispulsewhichatthetimehadbeenraisedbyacold，andnextdayhewasperfectlyrestored。
Notmuchcanbeinferredfromasinglecaseofthiskind，butitispossiblethatthekombimayturnoutavaluableremedy；andasProfessorSharpeyhasconductedaseriesofexperimentswiththissubstance，welookwithinterestfortheresults。Analkaloidhasbeenobtainedfromitsimilartostrychnine。Thereisnodoubtthatallkindsofwildanimalsdiefromtheeffectsofpoisonedarrows，excepttheelephantandhippopotamus。Theamountofpoisonthatthislittleweaponcanconveyintotheirsystemsbeingtoosmalltokillthosehugebeasts，thehuntersresorttothebeamtrapinstead。
AnotherkindofpoisonwasmetwithonLakeNyassa，whichwassaidtobeusedexclusivelyforkillingmen。Itwasputonsmallwoodenarrow-heads，andcarefullyprotectedbyapieceofmaize-leaftiedroundit。Itcausednumbnessofthetonguewhenthesmallestparticlewastasted。TheBushmenofthenorthernpartoftheKalahariwereseenapplyingtheentrailsofasmallcaterpillarwhichtheytermed\'Ngatotheirarrows。Thisvenomwasdeclaredtobesopowerfulinproducingdelirium，thatamanindyingreturnedinimaginationtoastateofinfancy，andwouldcallforhismother\'sbreast。Lionswhenshotwithitaresaidtoperishinagonies。Thepoisonousingredientinthiscasemaybederivedfromtheplantonwhichthecaterpillarfeeds。Itisdifficulttoconceivebywhatsortofexperimentsthepropertiesofthesepoisons，knownforgenerations，wereproved。Probablytheanimalinstincts，whichhavebecomesoobtusebycivilization，thatchildreninEnglandeattheberriesofthedeadlynightshade(Atropabelladonna)withoutsuspicion，wereintheearlyuncivilizedstatemuchmorekeen。Insomepointsinstinctisstillretainedamongsavages。ItisrelatedthatinthecelebratedvoyageoftheFrenchnavigator，Bougainville，ayounglady，whohadassumedthemaleattire，performedalltheharddutiesincidenttothecallingofacommonsailor；and，evenasservanttothegeologist，carriedabagofstonesandspecimensoverhillsanddaleswithoutacomplaint，andwithouthavinghersexsuspectedbyherassociates；butonlandingamongthesavagesofoneoftheSouthSeaIslands，shewasinstantlyrecognizedasafemale。
Theybegantoshowtheirimpressionsinawaythatcompelledhertoconfesshersex，andthrowherselfontheprotectionofthecommander，whichofcoursewasgranted。Inlikemanner，theearlierportionsofthehumanfamilymayhavehadtheirinstinctsastoplantsmorehighlydevelopedthananyoftheirdescendants——ifindeedmuchmoreknowledgethanweusuallysupposebenottheeffectofdirectrevelationfromabove。
TheMukuru-Madsehasadeeprockybed。Thewaterisgenerallyaboutfourfeetdeep，andfifteenortwentyyardsbroad。Beforereachingit，wepassedfiveorsixgullies；butbeyonditthecountry，fortwoorthreemilesfromtheriver，wascomparativelysmooth。Thelonggrasswasoverrunningallthenativepaths，andonespecies(sanu)，whichhasasharpbarbedseedaquarterofaninchinlength，enterseveryporeofwoollenclothingandhighlyirritatestheskin。Fromitshard，sharppointaseriesofminutebarbsarelaidback，andgivetheseedaholdwhereveritenters:theslightesttouchgivesitanenteringmotion，andthelittlehookspreventitsworkingout。
Theseseedsaresoabundantinsomespots，thattheinsideofthestockingbecomesworsethantheroughesthairshirt。Itis，however，anexcellentself-sower，andfinefodder；itrisestotheheightofcommonmeadow-grassinEngland，andwouldbeacapitalplantforspreadingoveranewcountrynotsoabundantlysuppliedwithgrassesasthisis。
