Wehavesometimesnoticedtwoorthreeleavestogetherpiercedthroughbytheseseeds，andthusmade，asitwere，intowingstocarrythemtoanysoilsuitedtotheirgrowth。
Wealwaysfollowthenativepaths，thoughtheyaregenerallynotmorethanfifteeninchesbroad，andsooftenhavedeeplittleholesinthem，madeforthepurposeofsettingtrapsforsmallanimals，andaresomuchobscuredbythelonggrass，thatonehastokeepone\'seyesonthegroundmorethanispleasant。Inspite，however，ofalldrawbacks，itisvastlymoreeasytotravelonthesetracksthantogostraightoveruncultivatedground，orvirginforest。Apathusuallyleadstosomevillage，thoughsometimesitturnsouttobeameregametrackleadingnowhere。
Ingoingnorth，wecameintoapartcalledMpembawhereChibisawasownedaschief，butthepeopledidnotknowthathehadbeenassassinatedbythePortugueseTerera。Agreatdealofgrainwaslyingroundthehut，wherewespentthenight。Verylargenumbersofturtledovesfeastedundisturbedonthetallstalkedmapiraears，andweeasilysecuredplentyoffinefatguinea-fowls——nowallowedtofeedleisurelyinthedesertedgardens。Thereasonassignedforallthislistlessimprovidencewas\"Therearenowomentogrindthecorn——
allaredead。”
Thecottonpatchesinallcasesseemedtohavebeensowellcaredfor，andkeptsofreeofweedsformerly，that，thoughnowuntended，butfewweedshadsprungup；andthebusheswerethuspreservedintheannualgrassburnings。Manybaobab-treesgrowindifferentspots，andthefewpeopleseenwereusingthewhitepulpfoundbetweentheseedstomakeapleasantsubaciddrink。
OnpassingMalango，neartheuppermostcataract，notasoulwastobeseen；but，aswerestedoppositeabeautifultree-coveredisland，themerryvoicesofchildrenatplayfellonourears——theparentshadfledthitherforprotectionfromtheslave-huntingAjawa，stillurgedonbytheoccasionalvisitsofthePortugueseagentsfromTette。TheAjawa，insteadofpassingbelowtheCataracts，nowavoidedus，andcrossedovertotheeastsideneartothetreeonwhichwehadhungtheboat。ThoseoftheManganja，towhomwecouldmakeourselvesknown，readilycametous；butthemajorityhadlostallconfidenceinthemselves，ineachother，andineveryoneelse。Theboathadbeenburnedaboutthreemonthspreviously，andtheManganjawereveryanxiousthatweshouldbelievethatthishadbeentheactoftheAjawa；butonscanningthespotwesawthatitwasmorelikelytohavecaughtfireinthegrass-burningofthecountry。Hadweintendedtobesolonginreturningtoit，weshouldhavehoisteditbottomupwards；for，asitwas，itisprobablethataquantityofdriedleaveslayinside，andasparkignitedthewhole。Allthetreeswithinfiftyyardswerescorchedandkilled，andthenails，iron，andcoppersheathing，alllayundisturbedbeneath。HadtheAjawadonethedeed，theywouldhavetakenawaythecopperandiron。
Ourhopesofrenderingourselvesindependentofthesouthforprovisions，bymeansofthisboat，beingthusdisappointed，weturnedbackwiththeintentionofcarryinganotheruptothesamespot；and，inordertofindlevelgroundforthis，wepassedacrossfromtheShireatMalangototheupperpartofthestreamLesungwe。Afine，active，intelligentfellow，calledPekila，guidedus，andwasremarkableasalmosttheonlyoneofthepopulationleftwithanyspiritinhim。Thedepressingeffectwhichtheslave-huntingscourgehasuponthenativemind，thoughlittletobewonderedat，issad，verysadtowitness。Musicalinstruments，mats，pillows，mortarsforpoundingmeal，werelyingaboutunused，andbecomingthepreyofthewhiteants。Withalltheirlittlecomfortsdestroyed，thesurvivorswerethrownstillfurtherbackintobarbarism。
Itisoflittleimportanceperhapstoanybuttravellerstonoticethatinoccupyingonenightawell-builthut，whichhadbeenshutupforsometime，theairinsideatoncegaveusachill，andanattackoffever；bothofwhichvanishedwhentheplacewaswell-ventilatedbymeansofafire。Wehavefrequentlyobservedthatlightingafireearlyinthemornings，eveninthehottesttimeoftheyear，givesfreshnesstothewholehouse，andremovesthatfeelingofclosenessandlangour，whichahotclimateinduces。
Onthenightofthe1stJuly，1863，severalloudpealsofthunderawokeus；themoonwasshiningbrightly，andnotacloudtobeseen。
Allthenativesremarkedontheclearnessoftheskyatthetime，andnextmorningsaid，\"WethoughtitwasGod\"(Morungo)。
Onarrivingattheshiponthe2ndJuly，wefoundadespatchfromEarlRussell，containinginstructionsforthewithdrawaloftheExpedition。Thedevastationcausedbyslave-huntingandfaminelayallaround。ThelabourhadbeenascompletelysweptawayfromtheGreatShireValley，asithadbeenfromtheZambesi，whereverPortugueseintrigueorpowerextended。ThecontinualforaysofMarianohadspreadruinanddesolationonoursouth-eastasfarasMountClarendon。
Whilethiswasgoingoninourrear，theTetteslave-huntersfromtheWesthadstimulatedtheAjawatosweepalltheManganjaoffthehillsonourEast；andslavingpartiesforthispurposewerestillpassingtheShireabovetheCataracts。InadditiontotheconfessionoftheGovernorofTette，ofanintentiontogoonwiththisslavinginaccordancewiththecounselofhiselderbrotheratMosambique，wehadreasontobelievethatslaverywentonundertheeyeofhisExcellency，theGovernor-Generalhimself；andthiswassubsequentlycorroboratedbyourrecognizingtwowomenatMosambiquewhohadlivedwithinahundredyardsoftheMission-stationatMagomero。Theywerewellknowntoourattendants，andhadformedapartofagangofseveralhundredstakentoMosambiquebytheAjawaattheverytimewhenhisExcellencywasentertainingEnglishofficerswithanti-
slaverypalavers。Toanyonewhounderstandshowminutetheinformationis，whichPortuguesegovernorspossessbymeansoftheirownslaves，andthroughgossipingtraderswhoseektocurrytheirfavour，itisidletoassertthatallthisslavinggoesonwithouttheirapprovalandconnivance。
Ifmorehadbeenwantedtoprovethehopelessnessofproducinganychangeinthesystemwhichhasprevailedeversinceourallies，thePortuguese，enteredthecountry，wehaditintheimpunitywithwhichthefreebooter，Terera，whohadmurderedChibisa，wasallowedtocarryonhisforays。Belchoir，anothermarauder，hadbeenchecked，butwasstillallowedtomakewar，astheytermslave-hunting。
Mr。HoraceWallerwaslivingforsomefivemonthsonMountMorambala，apositionfromwhichthewholeprocessoftheslave-trade，anddepopulationofthecountryaroundcouldbewellnoted。ThemountainoverlookstheShire，thebeautifulmeanderingsofwhicharedistinctlyseen，oncleardays，forthirtymiles。ThisriverwasforsometimesupposedtobeclosedagainstMariano，who，asamerematterofform，wasdeclaredarebelagainstthePortugueseflag。
When，however，itbecamenolongerpossibletokeepupthesham，theriverwasthrownopentohim；andMr。Wallerhasseeninasingledayfromfifteentotwentycanoesofdifferentsizesgoingdown，ladenwithslaves，tothePortuguesesettlementsfromtheso-calledrebelcamp。Thesecargoeswerecomposedentirelyofwomenandchildren。
Forthreemonthsthistrafficwasincessant，andatlast，socompletelywasthemaskthrownoff，thatoneoftheofficialscametopayavisittoBishopTozeronanotherpartofthesamemountain，and，combiningbusinesswithpleasure，collectedpaymentforsomecanoeworkdonefortheMissionaryparty，andwiththispurchasedslavesfromtherebels，whohadonlytobehailedfromthebankoftheriver。WhenhehadconcludedthebargainhetrottedtheslavesoutforinspectioninMr。Waller\'spresence。Thisofficial，SenhorMesquita，wastheonlyofficerwhocouldbeforcedtoliveattheKongone。Fromcertaincircumstancesinhislife，hehadfallenunderthepowerofthelocalGovernment；alltheotherCustom-houseofficersrefusedtogotoKongone，soherepoorMesquitamustliveonamiserablepittance——mustlive，andperhapsslave，sorelyagainsthiswill。Hisnameisnotbroughtforwardwithaviewofthrowinganyodiumonhischaracter。ThedisinterestedkindnesswhichheshowedtoDr。Meller，andothers，forbidsthatheshouldbementionedbyuswithanythinglikeunkindness。
Underalltheseconsiderations，withthefactthatwehadnotfoundtheRovumasofavourablefornavigationatthetimeofourvisitasweexpected，itwasimpossiblenottocoincideinthewisdomofourwithdrawal；butwedeeplyregrettedthatwehadevergivencredittothePortugueseGovernmentforanydesiretoamelioratetheconditionoftheAfricanrace；for，withhalfthelabourandexpenseanywhereelse，weshouldhavemadeanindeliblemarkofimprovementonasectionoftheContinent。ViewingPortuguesestatesmeninthelightofthelawstheyhavepassedforthesuppressionofslaveryandtheslave-trade，andbythestandardofthehighcharacterofourownpublicmen，itcannotbeconsideredweaknesstohavebelievedinthesincerityoftheanxietytoaidourenterprise，professedbytheLisbonMinistry。WehopedtobenefitbothPortugueseandAfricansbyintroducingfree-tradeandChristianity。Ourallies，unfortunately，cannotseetheslightestbenefitinanymeasurethatdoesnotimplyraisingthemselvesupbythrustingothersdown。TheofficialpaperoftheLisbonGovernmenthassinceletusknow\"thattheirpolicywasdirectedtofrustratingthegraspingdesignsoftheBritishGovernmenttothedominionofEasternAfrica。”We，whowereonthespot，andbehindthescenes，knewthatfeelingsofprivatebenevolencehadthechiefshareintheoperationsundertakenforintroducingthereignofpeaceandgoodwillontheLakesandcentralregions，whichforageshavebeentheabodesofviolenceandbloodshed。Butthatgreatchangewasnottobeaccomplished。Thenarrow-mindedwouldascribeallthatwasattemptedtothegraspingpropensityoftheEnglish。ButthemotivesthatactuatemanyinEngland，bothinpublicandprivatelife，aremuchmorenoblethantheworldgivesthemcreditfor。
Seeing，then，thatwewerenotyetarrivedat\"thegoodtimecoming，\"
andthatitwasquiteimpossibletotakethe\"Pioneer\"downtotheseatillthefloodsofDecember，wemadearrangementstoscrewthe\"LadyNyassa\"together；and，inordertoimprovethetimeintervening，weresolvedtocarryaboatpasttheCataractsasecondtime，sailalongtheeasternshoreoftheLake，androundthenorthernend，andalsocollectdatabywhichtoverifytheinformationcollectedbyColonelRigby，thatthe19，000slaves，whogothroughtheCustom-houseofZanzibarannually，arechieflydrawnfromLakeNyassaandtheValleyoftheShire。
Ourpartyconsistedoftwentynatives，someofwhomwereJohannamen，andweresupposedtobecapableofmanagingthesixoxenwhichdrewthesmallwagonwithaboatonit。AteamoftwelveCapeoxen，withaHottentotdriverandleader，wouldhavetakenthewagonoverthecountrywehadtopassthroughwiththegreatestease；butnosoonerdidwegetbeyondthepartoftheroadalreadymade，thanourdriversencounteredobstructionsinthewayoftreesandgullies，whichitwouldhavebeenawasteoftimetohaveovercomebyfellingtimberandhaulingoutthewagonbyblockandtacklepurchases。TheAjawaandManganjasettledatChibisa\'swerethereforesentfor，andtheytooktheboatontheirshouldersandcarrieditbriskly，inafewdays，pastalltheCataractsexceptone；thencomingtoacomparativelystillreachoftheriver，theytookadvantageofittohaulherupacoupleofmiles。TheMakololohadherthenentirelyincharge；for，beingaccustomedtorapidsintheirowncountry，nobetterboatmencouldbedesired。Theriverhereisverynarrow，andeveninwhatarecalledstillplaces，thecurrentisverystrong，andoftenobligedthemtohaultheboatalongbythereedsonthebanks，ortohandatow-ropeashore。Thereedsarefullofcowitch(Dolichospruriens)，thepodsofwhicharecoveredwithwhatlooksafinevelvetydown，butisinrealityamultitudeoffineprickles，whichgoinbythemillion，andcausedanitchingandstinginginthenakedbodiesofthosewhowerepullingthetow-rope，thatmadethemwriggleasifstungbyawholebedofnettles。Thoseonboardrequiredtobemenofreadyresourcewithoarsandpunting-poles，andsuchtheywere。But，nevertheless，theyfound，afterattemptingtopassbyarock，roundwhichthewaterrushedinwhirls，thatthewiserplanwouldbetotaketheboatashore，andcarryherpastthelastCataract。Whenthiswasreported，thecarrierswerecalledfromthevariousshadytreesunderwhichtheyhadtakenrefugefromthesun。Thiswasmidwinter，butthesunisalwayshotbydayhere，thoughthenightsarecold。FiveZambesimen，whohadbeenalltheirlivesaccustomedtogreatheavycanoes，——thechiefrecommendationofwhichissaidtobe，thattheycanberunagainstarockwiththefullforceofthecurrentwithoutinjury——wereverydesiroustoshowhowmuchbettertheycouldmanageourboatthantheMakololo；threejumpedintoherwhenourbackswereturned，andtwohauledherupalittleway；thetidecaughtherbow，weheardashoutofdistress，theropewasoutoftheirhandsinamoment，andthereshewas，bottomupwards；aturnortwoinaneddy，andawayshewent，likeanarrow，downtheCataracts。Oneofthemeninswimmingashoresavedarifle。Thewholepartyranwithalltheirmightalongthebank，butnevermoredidweseeourboat。
Thefiveperformersinthiscatastropheapproachedwithpenitentiallooks。Theyhadnothingtosay，norhadwe。Theybentdownslowly，andtouchedourfeetwithbothhands。\"Kukuatamoendo\"——\"tocatchthefoot\"——istheirwayofaskingforgiveness。Itwassolikewhatwehaveseenalittlechilddo——trytobringadishunbiddentoitspapa，andlettingitfall，burstintoacryofdistress——thattheywereonlysentencedtogobacktotheship，getprovisions，and，intheensuingjourneyonfoot，carryasmuchastheycould，andthusmakeupforthelossoftheboat。
Itwasexcessivelyannoyingtoloseallthisproperty，andbedeprivedofthemeansofdoingtheworkproposed，ontheeastandnorthoftheLake；butitwouldhavebeenlikecryingoverspiltmilktodootherwisenowthanmakethebestusewecouldofourlegs。Themenweresentbacktotheshipforprovisions，cloth，andbeads；andwhiletheyaregone，wemaysayalittleoftheCataractswhichprovedsofataltoourboatingplan。
CHAPTERXIII。
Dr。Livingstone\'sfurtherexplorations——Effectsofslave-trade——
Kirk\'srange——Ajawamigration——Nativefishermen——Arabslave-crossing——
Splendidhighlands。
TheMurchisonCataractsoftheShireriverbeginin15degrees20
minutesS。，andendinlat。15degrees55minutesS。，thedifferenceoflatitudeistherefore35minutes。Theriverrunsinthisspacenearlynorthandsouth，tillwepassMalango；sotheentiredistanceisunder40miles。TheprincipalCataractsarefiveinnumber，andarecalledPamofundaorPamozima，Morewa，PanorebaorTedzane，Pampatamanga，andPapekira。Besidesthese，threeorfoursmalleronesmightbementioned；as，forinstance，Mamvira，whereinourascentwefirstmetthebrokenwater，andheardthatgushingsoundwhich，fromtheinterminablewindingsofsome200milesofriverbelow，wehadcometobelievethetranquilShirecouldnevermake。
Whiletheselessercataractsdescendatanangleofscarcely20
degrees，thegreaterfall100feetin100yards，atanangleofabout45degrees，andoneatanangleof70degrees。OnepartofPamozimaisperpendicular，and，whentheriverisinflood，causesacloudofvapourtoascend，which，inourjourneytoLakeShirwa，wesawatadistanceofatleasteightmiles。TheentiredescentfromtheUppertotheLowerShireis1200feet。Onlyononespotinallthatdistanceisthecurrentmoderate——namely，aboveTedzane。Therestisallrapid，andmuchofitbeingonlyfiftyoreightyyardswide，andrushinglikeamill-race，itgivestheimpressionofwater-power，sufficienttodriveallthemillsinManchester，runningtowaste。
Pamofunda，orPamozima，hasadeepshadygroveonitsrightbank。
Whenwewerewalkingalonethroughitsdarkshade，wewerestartledbyashockingsmelllikethatofadissecting-room；andonlookingupsawdeadbodiesinmatssuspendedfromthebranchesofthetrees，amodeofburialsomewhatsimilartothatwhichwesubsequentlysawpractisedbytheParseesintheir\"towersofsilence\"atPoonah，nearBombay。ThenamePamozimameans，\"thedepartedspiritsorgods\"——afitnameforaplaceoverwhich，accordingtothepopularbelief，thedisembodiedsoulscontinuallyhover。
Therocklowestdownintheseriesisdarkreddish-greysyenite。
Thisseemstohavebeenanupheavingagent，forthemicaschistsaboveitaremuchdisturbed。Darktrappeanrocksfullofhornblendehaveinmanyplacesburstthroughtheseschists，andappearinnodulesonthesurface。ThehighestrockseenisafinesandstoneofclosergrainthanthatatTette，andquitemetamorphosedwhereitcomesintocontactwiththeigneousrocksbelowit。Itsometimesgivesplacetoquartzandreddishclayschists，muchbakedbyheat。
ThisistheusualgeologicalconditionontherightbankoftheCataracts。Ontheothersidewepassovermassesofporphyritictrap，incontactwiththesamemicaschists，andtheseprobablygivetothesoilthegreatfertilityweobserved。Thegreatbodyofthemountainsissyenite。Somuchmicaiswashedintotheriver，thatonlookingattentivelyonthestreamoneseesmyriadsofparticlesfloatingandglancinginthesun；andthis，too，evenatlowwater。
Itwasthe15thofAugustbeforethemenreturnedfromtheship，accompaniedbyMr。Raeandthestewardofthe\"Pioneer。”Theybroughttwooxen，oneofwhichwasinstantlyslaughteredtoputcourageintoallhearts，andsomebottlesofwine，apresentfromWallerandAlington。Wenevercarriedwinebefore，butthiswaspreciousasanexpressionofkindheartednessonthepartofthedonors。Ifoneattemptedtocarryeitherwineorspirits，asabeverage，hewouldrequireawholetroopoffollowersfornothingelse。Ourgreatestluxuryintravellingwasteaorcoffee。Weneveroncecarriedsugarenoughtolastajourney，butcoffeeisalwaysgood，whilethesugarlessteaisonlybearable，becauseoftheunbearablegnawingfeelingofwantandsinkingwhichensuesifwebegintotravelinthemorningswithoutsomethingwarminthestomach。Ourdrinkgenerallywaswater，andifcool，nothingcanequalitinahotclimate。Weusuallycarriedabottleofbrandyrolledupinourblankets，butthatwasusedonlyasamedicine；aspoonfulinhotwaterbeforegoingtobed，tofendoffachillandfever。Spiritsalwaysdoharm，ifthefeverhasfairlybegun；anditisprobablethatbrandy-and-waterhastoanswerforagoodmanyofthedeathsinAfrica。
Mr。Raehadmadegratifyingprogressinscrewingtogetherthe\"LadyNyassa。”Hehadthezealousco-operationofthreeasfinesteadyworkmenaseverhandledtools；and，astheywerenoblespecimensofEnglishsailors，wewouldfainmentionthenamesofmenwhoareanhonourtotheBritishnavy——JohnReid，JohnPennell，andRichardWilson。Thereaderwillexcuseourdoingso，butwedesiretorecordhowmuchtheywereesteemed，andhowthankfulwefeltfortheirgoodbehaviour。Theweatherwasdelightfullycool；and，withfullconfidenceinthoseleftbehind，itwaswithlightheartsweturnedourfacesnorth。Mr。Raeaccompaniedusadayinfront；and，asallourpartyhadearnestlyadvisedthatatleasttwoEuropeansshouldbeassociatedtogetheronthejourney，thestewardwasatthelastmomenttaken。Mr。Raereturnedtogetthe\"LadyNyassa\"readyforsea；and，asshedrewlesswaterthanthe\"Pioneer，\"takeherdowntotheoceaninOctober。Onereasonfortakingthestewardisworthrecording。BothheandamannamedKing，{5}who，thoughonlyaleadingstokerintheNavy，hadbeenapromisingstudentintheUniversityofAberdeen，hadgotintothatweakbloodless-lookingstatewhichresidenceinthelowlandswithoutmuchtodoorthinkaboutofteninduces。Thebestthingforthisischangeandanactivelife。Acoupleofdays\'marchonlyasfarastheMukuru-Madse，infusedsomuchvigourintoKingthathewasabletowalkbrisklyback。Considerationforthesteward\'shealthledtohisbeingselectedforthisnorthernjourney，andthemeasurewassocompletelysuccessfulthatitwasoften，inthehardmarch，asubjectofregretthatKinghadnotbeentakentoo。Aremovalofonlyahundredyardsissometimessobeneficialthatitoughtinseverecasesnevertobeomitted。
OurobjectnowwastogetawaytotheN。N。W。，proceedparallelwithLakeNyassa，butataconsiderabledistancewestofit，andthuspassbytheMazituorZulusnearitsnorthernendwithoutcontact——
ascertainwhetheranylargeriverflowedintotheLakefromthewest——
visitLakeMoelo，iftimepermitted，andcollectinformationaboutthetradeonthegreatslaveroute，whichcrossestheLakeatitssouthernend，andatTsengaandKota-kota。TheMakololowereeagertotravelfast，becausetheywantedtobebackintimetohoetheirfieldsbeforetherains，andalsobecausetheirwivesneededlookingafter。
IngoinginthefirstinstanceN。E。fromtheuppermostCataract，wefollowedinameasurethegreatbendoftherivertowardsthefootofMountZomba。Herewehadaviewofitsmostimposingside，thewest，withtheplateausome3000feethigh，stretchingawaytoitssouth，andMountsChiradzuruandMochirutoweringalofttothesky。Fromthatgoodlyhighlandstation，itwasoncehopedbythenobleMackenzie，who，forlargenessofheartandlovingdisposition，reallydeservedtobecalledthe\"BishopofCentralAfrica，\"thatlightandlibertywouldspreadtoalltheinterior。Westillthinkitmaybeacentreforcivilizinginfluences；foranyonedescendingfromthesecoolheights，andsteppingintoaboatontheUpperShire，cansailthreehundredmileswithoutacheckintotheheartofAfrica。
Wepassedthroughatractofcountrycoveredwithmopanetrees，wherethehardbakedsoilrefusedtolettheusualthickcropsofgrassgrow；andherewecameuponverymanytracksofbuffaloes，elephants，antelopes，andthespoorofonelion。Anoxwedrovealongwithus，asprovisionfortheway，wassorelybittenbythetsetse。Theeffectofthebitewas，asusual，quiteapparenttwodaysafterwards，inthegeneralflaccidityofthemuscles，thedroopingears，andlooksofillness。Italwaysexcitedourwonderthatwe，whowerefrequentlymuchbittentoobythesameinsects，feltnoharmfromtheirattacks。Mansharestheimmunityofthewildanimals。
Findingafewpeopleontheeveningofthe20thofAugust，whoweresupportingawretchedexistenceontamarindsandmice，weascertainedthattherewasnohopeofourbeingabletobuyfoodanywherenearerthantheLakeletPamalombe，wheretheAjawachief，Kainka，wasnowliving；butthatplentycouldbefoundwiththeMaravifemalechief，Nyango。Weturnedawaynorth-westwards，andstruckthestreamRibve-
ribve，orRivi-rivi，whichrisesintheMaravirange，andflowsintotheShire。
AstheRivi-rivicamefromtheN。W。wecontinuedtotravelalongitsbanks，untilwecametopeoplewhohadsuccessfullydefendedthemselvesagainstthehordesoftheAjawa。Byemployingthemenofonevillagetogoforwardandexplainwhoweweretothenext，wemanagedtopreventthefrightenedinhabitantsfromconsideringusafreshpartyofAjawa，orofPortugueseslavingagents。Heretheyhadcultivatedmaize，andwerewillingtosell，butnopersuasioncouldinducethemtogiveusguidestothechieftainess，Nyango。Theyevidentlyfeltthatwewerenottobetrusted；though，aswehadtocertifytoourowncharacter，ourcompanionsdidnotfail\"toblowourowntrumpet，\"withblastsinwhichmodestywasquiteoutofthequestion。Toallaysuspicion，wehadatlasttorefrainfrommentioningthelady\'sname。
Itwouldbewearisometorepeatthenamesofthevillageswepassedonourwaytothenorth-west。OnewasthelargestweeversawinAfrica，andquitedeserted，withtheusualsadsightofmanyskeletonslyingabout。AnotherwascalledTette。Weknowthreeplacesofthisname，whichfactshowsittobeanativeword；itseemstomeanaplacewherethewaterrushesoverrocks。AthirdvillagewascalledChipanga(agreatwork)，anameidenticalwiththeShupangaofthePortuguese。Thisrepetitionofnamesmayindicatethatthesamepeoplefirsttooktheseepithetsintheirtraditionalpassagefromnorthtosouth。
Atthisseasonoftheyearthenightsarestillcold，andthepeople，havingnocropstooccupytheirattention，donotstirouttilllongafterthesunisup。Atothertimestheyareofftotheirfieldsbeforethedaydawns，andthefirstsoundonehearsistheloudtalkingofmenandwomen，inwhichtheyusuallyindulgeinthedarktoscareoffbeastsbythesoundofthehumanvoice。Whennoworkistobedone，thefirstwarningofapproachingdayisthehemp-smoker\'sloudringingcough。
Havingbeendelayedonemorningbysomenegotiationaboutguides，whowereusedchieflytointroduceustoothervillages，wetwowhiteswalkedalittlewayahead，takingthedirectionofthestream。Themenhavingbeenalwaysabletofindoutourroutebytheprintsofourshoes，wewentonforanumberofmiles。Thistime，however，theylostourtrack，andfailedtofollowus。Thepathwaswellmarkedbyelephants，hyenas，pallahs，andzebras，butformanyadaynohumanfoothadtrodit。Whenthesunwentdownadesertedhamletwasreached，wherewemadecomfortablebedsforourselvesofgrass。
Firingmusketstoattracttheattentionofthosewhohavestrayedistheusualresourceinthesecases。Onthisoccasionthesoundoffirearmstendedtomisleadus；for，hearingshotsnextmorning，alongwearymarchledusonlytosomenativehunters，whohadbeenshootingbuffaloes。Returningtoasmallvillage，wemetwithsomepeoplewhorememberedourpassinguptotheLakeintheboat；theywereaskindastheycouldbe。Theonlyfoodtheypossessedwastamarinds，preparedwithashes，andalittlecowitchmeal。Thecowitch，asmentionedbefore，hasavelvetybrowncoveringofminuteprickles，which，iftouched，entertheporesoftheskinandcauseapainfultingling。Thewomenintimesofscarcitycollectthepods，kindleafireofgrassoverthemtodestroytheprickles，thensteepthebeanstilltheybegintosprout，washtheminpurewater，andeitherboilthemorpoundthemintomeal，whichresemblesourbean-
meal。Thisplantclimbsupthelonggrass，andaboundsinallreedyparts，and，thoughaplaguetothetravellerwhotouchesitspods，itperformsgoodserviceintimesoffaminebysavingmanyalifefromstarvation。ItsnamehereisKitedzi。
Havingtravelledatleasttwentymilesinsearchofourpartythatday，ourrestonamatinthebesthutofthevillagewasverysweet。
Wehaddinedtheeveningbeforeonapigeoneach，andhadeatenonlyahandfulofkitedziporridgethisafternoon。Thegoodwifeofthevillagetookalittlecornwhichshehadkeptforseed，grounditafterdark，andmadeitintoporridge。This，andacupofwildvegetablesofasweetishtasteforarelish，alittleboybroughtinandputdown，withseveralvigorousclapsofhishands，inthemannerwhichisesteemedpolite，andwhichisstrictlyenjoinedonallchildren。
Onthethirddayofseparation，Akosanjere，theheadmanofthisvillage，conductedusforwardtoourpartywhohadgoneontoNseze，adistricttothewestward。Thisincidentismentioned，notforanyinterestitpossesses，apartfromtheideaofthepeopleitconveys。
Wewerecompletelyseparatedfromourmenfornearlythreedays，andhadnothingwherewithtopurchasefood。Thepeopleweresorelypressedbyfamineandwar，andtheirhospitality，poorasitwas，didthemgreatcredit，andwasmostgratefultous。Ourownmenhadbecomeconfusedandwandered，buthaddonetheirutmosttofindus；
onourrejoiningthem，theoxwasslain，andall，havingbeenonshortcommons，rejoicedinthis\"dayofslaughter。”Akosanjerewas，ofcourse，rewardedtohisheart\'scontent。
Aswepursuedourway，wecamecloseuptoarangeofmountains，themostprominentpeakofwhichiscalledMvai。Thisisagreat，bare，roundedblockofgraniteshootingupfromtherestofthechain。Itandseveralothermassesofrockareofalightgreycolour，withwhitepatches，asifoflichens；thesidesandsummitsaregenerallythinlycoveredwithratherscraggytrees。Thereareseveralotherprominentpeaks——one，forinstance，stillfurthernorth，calledChirobve。Eachhasaname，butwecouldneverascertainthattherewasanappellationwhichappliedtothewhole。Thisfact，andourwishtocommemoratethenameofDr。Kirk，inducedusafterwards，whenwecouldnotdiscoveraparticularpeakmentionedtousformerlyasMolomo-ao-koku，orCock\'s-bill，tocallthewholechainfromthewestoftheCataractsuptothenorthendoftheLake，\"Kirk\'sRange。”
