第23章

类别:其他 作者:David Livingstone字数:11855更新时间:18/12/14 10:02:35
Fromboyhoodupwardswehavebeenaccustomed,fromtimetotime,toreadinbooksoftravelsaboutthegreatadvancesannuallymadebyMohammedanisminAfrica。Therateatwhichthisreligionspreadswassaidtobesorapid,thatinafterdays,inourownprettyextensivetravels,wehaveconstantlybeenonthelookoutfortheadvancingwavefromNorthtoSouth,which,itwasprophesied,wouldsoonreducetheentirecontinenttothefaithofthefalseprophet。Theonlyfoundationthatwecandiscoverfortheassertionsreferredto,andforothersofmorerecentdate,isthefactthatinaremotecornerofNorth-WesternAfricatheFulahs,andMandingoes,andsomeothersinNorthernAfrica,asmentionedbyDr。Barth,havemadeconquestsofterritory;buteventheycaresoverylittlefortheextensionoftheirfaith,thataftertheconquestnopainswhateveraretakentoindoctrinatetheadultsofthetribe。ThisisinexactaccordancewiththeimpressionwehavereceivedfromourintercoursewithMohammedansandChristians。ThefollowersofChristaloneareanxioustopropagatetheirfaith。AquasiphilanthropistwouldcertainlyneverneedtorecommendthefollowersofIslam,whomwehavemet,torestraintheirbenevolencebypreachingthat\"Charityshouldbeginathome。” ThoughSeleleandhiscompanionswereboundtotheirmastersbydomesticties,theonlynewideatheyhadimbibedfromMohammedanismwas,thatitwouldbewrongtoeatmeatkilledbyotherpeople。Theythoughtitwouldbe\"unlucky。”JustastheinhabitantsofKolobeng,beforebeingtaughttherequirementsofChristianity,refrainedfromhoeingtheirgardensonSundays,lesttheyshouldreapanunluckycrop。Sofaraswecouldlearn,noeffortshadbeenmadetoconvertthenatives,thoughthesetwoArabs,andaboutadozenhalf-castes,hadbeeninthecountryformanyyears;andjudgingfromourexperiencewithadozenMohammedansinouremployathighwagesforsixteenmonths,theAfricanswouldbethebettermeninproportionastheyretainedtheirnativefaith。ThismayappearonlyaharshjudgmentfromamindimbuedwithChristianprejudices;butwithoutanypretentiontothatimpartiality,whichleavesitdoubtfultowhichsidetheaffectionslean,thetruthmaybefairlystatedbyonewhoviewedallMohammedansandAfricanswiththesincerestgoodwill。 OurtwelveMohammedansfromJohannaweretheleastopenofanyofourpartytoimpressionfromkindness。Amarkeddifferenceingeneralconductwasapparent。TheMakololo,andothernativesofthecountry,whomwehadwithus,invariablysharedwitheachotherthefoodtheyhadcooked,buttheJohannamenpartookoftheirmealsatadistance。This,atfirst,weattributedtotheirMoslemprejudices; butwhentheysawthecookingprocessoftheothersnearlycomplete,theycame,satbesidethem,andatetheportionofferedwithouteverrememberingtoreturnthecomplimentwhentheirownturncametobegenerous。TheMakololoandtheothersgrumbledattheirgreediness,yetalwaysfollowedthecommoncustomofAfricansofsharingtheirfoodwithallwhositaroundthem。WhatvexedusmostintheJohannamenwastheirindifferencetothewelfareofeachother。Once,whentheywereallcomingtotheshipaftersleepingashore,oneofthemwalkedintothewaterwiththeintentionofswimmingofftotheboat,andwhileyethardlyuptohiskneeswasseizedbyahorridcrocodileanddraggedunder;thepoorfellowgaveashriek,andhelduphishandforaid,butnoneofhiscountrymenstirredtohisassistance,andhewasneverseenagain。Onaskinghisbrother-in-lawwhyhedidnothelphim,hereplied,\"Well,noonetoldhimtogointothewater。Itwashisownfaultthathewaskilled。”TheMakololoontheotherhandrescuedawomanatSennabyenteringthewater,andtakingheroutofthecrocodile\'smouth。 Itisnotassumedthattheirreligionhadmuchtodointhematter。 ManyMohammedansmightcontrastfavourablywithindifferentChristians;but,sofarasourexperienceinEastAfricagoes,themoraltoneofthefollowerofMahomedispitchedatalowerkeythanthatoftheuntutoredAfrican。TheancientzealforpropagatingthetenetsoftheKoranhasevaporated,andbeenreplacedbythemostintenseselfishnessandgrossestsensuality。TheonlyknowneffortsmadebyMohammedans,namely,thoseintheNorth-WestandNorthofthecontinent,aresolinkedwiththeacquisitionofpowerandplunder,asnottodeservethenameofreligiouspropagandism;andtheonlyreligionthatnowmakesproselytesisthatofJesusChrist。Tothosewhoarecapableoftakingacomprehensiveviewofthissubject,nothingcanbeadducedofmoretellingsignificancethanthewell- attestedfact,thatwhiletheMohammedans,Fulahs,andotherstowardsCentralAfrica,makeafewproselytesbyaprocesswhichgratifiestheirowncovetousness,threesmallsectionsoftheChristianconverts,theAfricansintheSouth,intheWestIndies,andontheWestCoastofAfricaactuallycontributeforthesupportandspreadoftheirreligionupwardsof15,000poundsannually。{7}ThatreligionwhichsofarovercomestheselfishnessofthehumanheartmustbeDivine。 LeavingKota-kotaBay,weturnedawaydueWestonthegreatslaveroutetoKatanga\'sandCazembe\'scountryinLonda。Jumalentushisservant,Selele,toleadusthefirstday\'smarch。HesaidthatthetradersfromKilwaandIboecrosstheLakeeitheratthisbay,oratTsenga,oratthesouthernendoftheLake;andthatwherevertheymaycrosstheyallgobythispathtotheinterior。Theyhaveslaveswiththemtocarrytheirgoods,andwhentheyreachaspotwheretheycaneasilybuyothers,theysettledownandbeginthetraffic,andatoncecultivategrain。Somuchofthelandlieswaste,thatnoobjectionisevermadetoanyonetakingpossessionofasmuchasheneeds;theycanpurchaseafieldofcassavafortheirpresentwantsforverylittle,andtheycontinuetradinginthecountryfortwoorthreeyears,andgivingwhatweighttheirmusketspossesstothechiefwhoismostliberaltothem。 Thefirstday\'smarchledusoverarich,well-cultivatedplain。 Thiswassucceededbyhighlands,undulating,stony,andcoveredwithscraggytrees。Manybanksofwellroundedshingleappear。Thedisintegrationoftherocks,nowgoingon,doesnotroundofftheangles;theyaresplitupbytheheatandcoldintoangularfragments。OnthesehighdownswecrossedtheRiverKaombe。Beyonditwecameamongtheuplandvegetation——rhododendrons,proteas,themasuko,andmolompi。Atthefootofthehill,Kasuko-suko,wefoundtheRiverBuarunningnorthtojointheKaombe。Wehadtogoamileoutofourwayforaford;thestreamisdeepenoughinpartsforhippopotami。Thevariousstreamsnotpreviouslynoticed,crossedinthisjourney,hadbeforethisledustotheconclusion,independentlyofthetestimonyofthenatives,thatnolargeriverranintothenorthendoftheLake。NosuchaffluentwasneededtoaccountfortheShire\'sperennialflow。 OnSeptember15thwereachedthetopoftheascentwhich,fromitsmanyupsanddowns,hadoftenmadeuspuffandblowasifbroken- winded。Thewaterofthestreamswecrossedwasdeliciouslycold,andnowthatwehadgainedthesummitatNdonda,wheretheboiling- pointofwatershowedanaltitudeof3440feetabovethesea,theairwasdelightful。LookingbackwehadamagnificentviewoftheLake,butthehazepreventedourseeingbeyondtheseahorizon。Thescenewasbeautiful,butitwasimpossibletodissociatethelovelylandscapewhosehillsanddaleshadsosorelytriedourlegsandlungs,fromthesadfactthatthiswaspartofthegreatslaveroutenowactuallyinuse。Bythisroadmany\"Tenthousands\"havehereseen\"theSea,\"\"theSea,\"butwithsinkinghearts;fortheuniversalideaamongthecaptivegangsis,thattheyaregoingtobefattenedandeatenbythewhites。Theycannotofcoursebesomuchshockedasweshouldbe——theirsensibilitiesarefarfromfine,theirfeelingsaremoreobtusethanours——infact,\"theliveeelsareusedtobeingskinned,\"perhapstheyratherlikeit。Wewhoarenotphilosophic,blessedtheProvidencewhichatThermopylaeinancientdaysrolledbackthetideofEasternconquestfromtheWest,andsoguidedthecourseofeventsthatlightandlibertyandgospeltruthspreadtoourdistantisle,andemancipatingourracefreedthemfromthefearofeveragainhavingtoclimbfatiguingheightsanddescendwearisomehollowsinaslave-gang,aswesupposetheydidwhenthefairEnglishyouthswereexposedforsaleatRome。 Lookingwestwardsweperceivedthat,whatfrombelowhadtheappearanceofmountains,wasonlytheedgeofatable-landwhich,thoughatfirstundulating,soonbecamesmooth,andslopedtowardsthecentreofthecountry。TothesouthaprominentmountaincalledChipata,andtothesouth-westanothernamedNgalla,bywhichtheBuaissaidtorise,gavecharactertothelandscape。Inthenorth,massesofhillspreventedourseeingmorethaneightortenmiles。 TheairwhichwassoexhilaratingtoEuropeanshadanoppositeeffectonfivemenwhohadbeenbornandrearedinthemalariaoftheDeltaoftheZambesi。NosoonerdidtheyreachtheedgeoftheplateauatNdonda,thantheylaydownprostrate,andcomplainedofpainsalloverthem。ThetemperaturewasnotmuchlowerthanthatontheshoresoftheLakebelow,76degreesbeingthemeantemperatureoftheday,52degreesthelowest,and82degreesthehighestduringthetwenty-fourhours;attheLakeitwasaboutl0degreeshigher。Ofthesymptomstheycomplainedof——painseverywhere——nothingcouldbemade。Andyetitwasevidentthattheyhadgoodreasonforsayingthattheywereill。Theyscarifiedalmosteverypartoftheirbodiesasaremedialmeasure;medicines,administeredonthesuppositionthattheirmaladywastheeffectofasuddenchill,hadnoeffect,andintwodaysoneofthemactuallydiedinconsequenceof,asfaraswecouldjudge,achangefromamalarioustoapurerandmorerarefiedatmosphere。 Aswewereontheslaveroute,wefoundthepeoplemorechurlishthanusual。Onbeingexpostulatedwithaboutit,theyreplied,\"Wehavebeenmadewarybythosewhocometobuyslaves。”Thecalamityofdeathhavingbefallenourparty,seemed,however,toawakentheirsympathies。Theypointedouttheirusualburying-place,lentushoes,andhelpedtomakethegrave。Whenweofferedtopayallexpenses,theyshowedthattheyhadnotdonethesefriendlyofficeswithoutfullyappreciatingtheirvalue;fortheyenumeratedtheuseofthehut,thematonwhichthedeceasedhadlain,thehoes,thelabour,andthemedicinewhichtheyhadscatteredovertheplacetomakehimrestinpeace。 TheprimitiveAfricanfaithseemstobethatthereisoneAlmightyMakerofheavenandearth;thathehasgiventhevariousplantsofearthtomantobeemployedasmediatorsbetweenhimandthespiritworld,whereallwhohaveeverbeenbornanddiedcontinuetolive; thatsinconsistsinoffencesagainsttheirfellow-men,eitherhereoramongthedeparted,andthatdeathisoftenapunishmentofguilt,suchaswitchcraft。Theirideaofmoralevildiffersinnorespectfromours,buttheyconsiderthemselvesamenableonlytoinferiorbeings,nottotheSupreme。Evil-speaking——lying——hatred—— disobediencetoparents——neglectofthem——aresaidbytheintelligenttohavebeenallknowntobesin,aswellastheft,murder,oradultery,beforetheyknewaughtofEuropeansortheirteaching。Theonlynewadditiontotheirmoralcodeis,thatitiswrongtohavemorewivesthanone。This,untilthearrivalofEuropeans,neverenteredintotheirmindsevenasadoubt。 Everythingnottobeaccountedforbycommoncauses,whetherofgoodorevil,isascribedtotheDeity。Menareinseparablyconnectedwiththespiritsofthedeparted,andwhenonediesheisbelievedtohavejoinedthehostsofhisancestors。AlltheAfricanswehavemetwithareasfirmlypersuadedoftheirfutureexistenceasoftheirpresentlife。AndwehavefoundnoneinwhomthebeliefintheSupremeBeingwasnotrooted。HeissoinvariablyreferredtoastheAuthorofeverythingsupernatural,that,unlessoneisignorantoftheirlanguage,hecannotfailtonoticethisprominentfeatureoftheirfaith。Whentheypassintotheunseenworld,theydonotseemtobepossessedwiththefearofpunishment。Theutensilsplaceduponthegraveareallbrokenasiftoindicatethattheywillneverbeusedbythedepartedagain。Thebodyisputintothegraveinasittingposture,andthehandsarefoldedinfront。Insomepartsofthecountrytherearetaleswhichwecouldtranslateintofaintglimmeringsofaresurrection;butwhetherthesefables,handeddownfromagetoage,conveythatmeaningtothenativesthemselveswecannottell。Thetruetraditionoffaithisassertedtobe\"thoughamandiehewillliveagain;\"thefalsethatwhenhediesheisdeadforever。 CHAPTERXIV。 ImportantgeographicaldiscoveriesintheWabisacountries——Crueltyoftheslave-trade——TheMazitu——SeriousillnessofDr。Livingstone—— Returntotheship。 Inourcoursewestwards,weatfirstpassedoveragentlyundulatingcountry,withareddishclayeysoil,which,fromtheheavycrops,appearedtobeveryfertile。Manyrivuletswerecrossed,somerunningsouthwardsintotheBua,andothersnorthwardsintotheLoangwa,ariverwhichweformerlysawflowingintotheLake。 Furtheron,thewaterwaschieflyfoundinpoolsandwells。Thenstillfurther,inthesamedirection,somewatercoursesweresaidtoflowintothatsame\"LoangwaoftheLake,\"andothersintotheLoangwa,whichflowstothesouth-west,andenterstheZambesiatZumbo,andisherecalledthe\"LoangwaoftheMaravi。”Thetreeswereingeneralscraggy,andcovered,exactlyastheyareinthedampclimateoftheCoast,withlichens,resemblingorchilla-weed。Themaize,whichlovesratheradampsoil,hadbeenplantedonridgestoallowthesuperfluousmoisturetorunoff。Everythingindicatedaveryhumidclimate,andthepeoplewarnedusthat,astherainswerenear,wewerelikelytobepreventedfromreturningbythecountrybecomingfloodedandimpassable。 Villages,asusualencircledbyeuphorbiahedges,werenumerous,andagreatdealofgrainhadbeencultivatedaroundthem。Domesticfowls,inplenty,andpigeonswithdovecotslikethoseinEgyptwereseen。ThepeoplecallthemselvesMatumboka,buttheonlydifferencebetweenthemandtherestoftheManganjaisinthemodeoftattooingtheface。Theirlanguageisthesame。Theirdistinctivemarkconsistsoffourtattooedlinesdivergingfromthepointbetweentheeyebrows,which,infrowning,themusclesformintoafurrow。Theotherlinesoftattooing,asinallManganja,runinlongseams,whichcrossingeachotheratcertainanglesformagreatnumberoftriangularspacesonthebreast,back,arms,andthighs。Thecuticleisdividedbyaknife,andtheedgesoftheincisionaredrawnaparttillthetrueskinappears。Byarepetitionofthisprocess,linesofraisedcicatricesareformed,whicharethoughttogivebeauty,nomatterhowmuchpainthefashiongives。 Itwouldnotbeworthwhiletoadvertforamomenttotheroutineoftravelling,orthelittledifficultiesthatbeseteveryonewhoattemptstopenetrateintoanewcountry,wereitnottoshowthegreatsourceofthepowerherepossessedbyslave-traders。Weneededhelpincarryingourgoods,whileourmenwereill,thoughstillabletomarch。Whenwehadsettledwithothersforhire,wewereoftentold,thatthedealersinmenhadtakenpossessionofsome,andhadtakenthemawayaltogether。Otherthingsledustobelievethattheslave-traderscarrymatterswithahighhand;andnowonder,forthepossessionofgunpowdergivesthemalmostabsolutepower。Themodebywhichtribesarmedwithbowsandarrowscarryonwarfare,ordefendthemselves,isbyambuscade。Theynevercomeoutinopenfight,butwaitfortheenemyensconcedbehindtrees,orinthelonggrassofthecountry,andshootathimunawares。Consequently,ifmencomeagainstthemwithfirearms,when,asisusuallythecase,thelonggrassisallburnedoff,thetribeattackedareashelplessasawoodenship,possessingonlysignalguns,wouldbebeforeaniron-cladsteamer。Thetimeofyearselectedforthiskindofwarfareisnearlyalwaysthatinwhichthegrassisactuallyburntoff,orissodryasreadilytotakefire。ThedrygrassinAfricalooksmorelikeripeEnglishwheatlateintheautumn,thananythingelsewecancompareitto。LetusimagineanEnglishvillagestandinginafieldofthissort,boundedonlybythehorizon,andenemiessettingfiretoalineofamileortwo,byrunningalongwithbunchesofburningstrawintheirhands,touchinghereandtheretheinflammablematerial,——thewindblowingtowardsthedoomedvillage——theinhabitantswithonlyoneortwooldmuskets,buttentoonenopowder,——thelonglineofflames,leapingthirtyfeetintotheairwithdensemassesofblacksmoke——andpiecesofcharredgrassfallingdowninshowers。WouldnotthestoutestEnglishvillager,armedonlywiththebowandarrowagainsttheenemy\'smusket,quailattheideaofbreakingthroughthatwalloffire?Whenatadistance,weoncesawascenelikethis,andhadthecharredgrass,literallyasthickasflakesofblacksnow,fallingaroundus,therewasnodifficultyinunderstandingthesecretoftheslave-trader\'spower。 Onthe21stofSeptember,wearrivedatthevillageofthechiefMuasi,orMuazi;itissurroundedbyastockade,andemboweredinverytalleuphorbia-trees;theirheight,thirtyorfortyfeet,showsthatithasbeeninhabitedforatleastonegeneration。Avisitationofdiseaseordeathcausestheheadmentochangethesiteoftheirvillages,andplantnewhedges;but,thoughMuazihassufferedfromtheattacksoftheMazitu,hehasevidentlyclungtohisbirthplace。 Thevillageissituatedabouttwomilessouth-westofahighhillcalledKasungu,whichgivesthenametoadistrictextendingtotheLoangwaoftheMaravi。Severalotherdetachedgranitehillshavebeenshotupontheplain,andmanystockadedvillages,allowingallegiancetoMuazi,arescatteredoverit。 Onourarrival,thechiefwassittinginthesmoothshadyplace,calledBoalo,whereallpublicbusinessistransacted,withabouttwohundredmenandboysaroundhim。Wepaidourguideswithdueostentation。Masiko,thetallestofourparty,measuredoffthefathomofclothagreedupon,andmadeitappearaslongaspossible,byfacingroundtothecrowd,andcuttingafewinchesbeyondwhathisoutstretchedarmscouldreach,toshowthattherewasnodeception。Thiswasbywayofadvertisement。Thepeoplearemightilygratifiedathavingatallfellowtomeasuretheclothforthem。Itpleasesthemevenbetterthancuttingitbyatape-line—— thoughveryfewmenofsixfeethighcanmeasureofftheirownlengthwiththeiroutstretchedarms。Here,whereArabtradershavebeen,thecubitcalledmokono,orelbow,beginstotaketheplaceofthefathominusefurthersouth。Themeasureistakenfromthepointofthebentelbowtotheendofthemiddlefinger。 Wefound,onvisitingMuazionthefollowingday,thathewasasfrankandstraightforwardascouldreasonablybeexpected。HedidnotwishustogototheN。N。W。,becausehecarriesonaconsiderabletradeinivorythere。Wewereanxioustogetofftheslaveroute,topeoplenotvisitedbeforebytraders;butMuazinaturallyfeared,thatifwewenttowhatissaidtobeawell-wateredcountry,aboundinginelephants,wemightrelievehimoftheivorywhichhenowobtainsatacheaprate,andsellstotheslave-tradersastheypassKasungutotheeast;butatlastheconsented,warningusthat\"greatdifficultywouldbeexperiencedinobtainingfood——adistricthadbeendepopulatedbyslavewars——andanightortwomustbespentinit;buthewouldgiveusgoodguides,whowouldgothreedayswithus,beforeturning,andthenfurtherprogressmustdependonourselves。”Someofourmenhavingbeenilleversincewemountedthishighlandplain,weremainedtwodayswithMuazi。 Aherdoffinecattleshowedthatnotsetseexistedinthedistrict。 TheyhadtheIndianhump,andwereveryfat,andverytame。Theboysrodeonbothcowsandbullswithoutfear,andtheanimalsweresofatandlazy,thattheoldonesonlymadeafeebleattempttokicktheiryoungtormentors。Muazinevermilksthecows;hecomplainedthat,butfortheMazituhavingformerlycapturedsome,heshouldnowhavehadverymany。Theywanderoverthecountryatlarge,andcertainlythrive。 AfterleavingMuazi\'s,wepassedoveraflatcountrysparselycoveredwiththescraggyuplandtrees,butbrightenedwithmanyfineflowers。 Thegrasswasshort,reachingnohigherthantheknee,andgrowingintuftswithbarespacesbetween,thoughthetreesweredrapedwithmanyvariouslichens,andshowedamoistclimate。Ahighandverysharpwindblewovertheflats;itspiercingkeennesswasnotcausedbylowtemperature,forthethermometerstoodat80degrees。 WewerenowonthesourcesoftheLoangwaoftheMaravi,whichenterstheZambesiatZumbo,andwerestruckbythegreatresemblancewhichtheboggyandsedgystreamsherepresentedtothesourcesoftheLeeba,anaffluentoftheZambesiformerlyobservedinLonda,andoftheKasai,whichsomebelievetobetheprincipalbranchoftheCongoorZaire。 WehadtakenpainstoascertainfromthetravelledBabisaandArabsasmuchaspossibleaboutthecountryinfront,which,fromthelesseningtimewehadatourdisposal,wefearedwecouldscarcelyreach,andhadheardagooddealofasmalllakecalledBemba。Asweproceededwest,wepassedoverthesourcesnotonlyoftheLoangwa,butofanotherstream,calledMoitawaorMoitala,whichwasrepresentedtobethemainfeederofLakeBemba。Thiswouldbeoflittleimportance,butforthefactthattheconsiderableriverLuapula,orLoapulaissaidtoflowoutofBembatothewestward,andthentospreadoutintoanotherandmuchlargerlake,namedMoero,orMoelo。Flowingstillfurtherinthesamedirection,theLoapulaformsLakeMofue,orMofu,andafterthisitissaidtopassthetownofCazembe,bendtothenorth,andenterLakeTanganyika。Whitherthewaterwentafteritenteredthelastlake,noonewouldventureanassertion。Butthatthecourseindicatedisthetruewatershedofthatpartofthecountry,webelievefromtheunvaryingopinionofnativetravellers。TherecouldbenodoubtthatourinformantshadbeeninthecountrybeyondCazembe\'s,fortheyknewanddescribedchiefswhomweafterwardsmetaboutthirty-fiveorfortymileswestofhistown。TheLualabaissaidtoflowintotheLoapula——andwhen,forthesakeoftestingtheaccuracyofthetravelled,itwasassertedthatallthewateroftheregionroundthetownofCazembeflowedintotheLuambadzi,orLuambezi(Zambesi),theyremarkedwithasmile,\"Hesays,thattheLoapulaflowsintotheZambesi——didyoueverhearsuchnonsense?\"orwordstothateffect。Wewereforcedtoadmit,thataccordingtonativeaccounts,ourpreviousimpressionoftheZambesi\'sdrainingthecountryaboutCazembe\'shadbeenamistake。Theirgeographicalopinionsarenowonlystated,withoutanyfurthercommentthanthattheitinerarygivenbytheArabsandothersshowsthattheLoapulaistwicecrossedonthewaytoCazembe\'s;andwemayaddthatwehaveneverfoundanydifficultyfromtheallegedincapacityofthenegrototellwhichwayariverflows。 Theboiling-pointofwatershowedadescent,fromtheedgeoftheplateautoourfurthestpointwest,of170feet;butthiscanonlybeconsideredasanapproximation,andnodependencecouldhavebeenplacedonit,hadwenothadthecoursesofthestreamstoconfirmthisratherroughmodeofascertainingaltitudes。Theslope,asshownbythewatershed,wastothe\"LoangwaoftheMaravi,\"andtowardstheMoitala,orsouth-west,west,andnorth-west。AfterweleavethefeedersofLakeNyassa,thewaterdrainstowardsthecentreofthecontinent。ThecourseoftheKasai,ariverseenduringDr。 Livingstone\'sjourneytotheWestCoast,anditsfeederswastothenorth-east,orsomewhatinthesamedirection。WhetherthewaterthusdrainedofffindsitswayoutbytheCongo,orbytheNile,hasnotyetbeenascertained。Somepartsofthecontinenthavebeensaidtoresembleaninverteddinner-plate。Thisportionseemsmoreoftheshape,ifshapeithas,ofawide-awakehat,withthecrownalittledepressed。Thealtitudeofthebriminsomepartsisconsiderable; inothers,asatTetteandthebottomofMurchison\'sCataracts,itissosmallthatitcouldbeascertainedonlybyeliminatingthedailyvariationsofthebarometer,bysimultaneousobservationsontheCoast,andatpointssometwoorthreehundredmilesinland。SolongasAfricanriversremaininwhatwemaycallthebrim,theypresentnoobstructions;butnosoonerdotheyemergefromthehigherlandsthantheirutilityisimpairedbycataracts。Thelowlyingbeltisveryirregular。Attimesslopingupinthemanneroftherimofaninverteddinner-plate——whileinothercases,ahighridgerisesnearthesea,tobesucceededbyalowerdistrictinlandbeforewereachthecentralplateau。Thebreadthofthelowlandsissometimesasmuchasthreehundredmiles,andthatbreadthdeterminesthelimitsofnavigationfromtheseaward。 WemadethreelongmarchesbeyondMuazi\'sinanorth-westerlydirection;thepeoplewerecivilenough,butrefusedtosellusanyfood。Weweretravellingtoofast,theysaid;infact,theywerestartled,andbeforetheyrecoveredtheirsurprise,wewereobligedtodepart。WesuspectedthatMuazihadsentthemorderstorefuseusfood,thatwemightthusbepreventedfromgoingintothedepopulateddistrict;butthismayhavebeenmeresuspicion,theresultofourownuncharitablefeelings。 WespentonenightatMachambwe\'svillage,andanotheratChimbuzi\'s。 Itisseldomthatwecanfindtheheadmanonfirstenteringavillage。Hegetsoutofthewaytillhehasheardallaboutthestrangers,orheisactuallyoutinthefieldslookingafterhisfarms。Weoncethoughtthatwhentheheadmancameinfromavisitofinspection,withhisspear,bowandarrows,theyhadbeenalltakenupfortheoccasion,andthathehadallthewhilebeenhiddeninsomehutslilywatchingtillheheardthatthestrangersmightbetrusted;butonlisteningtothedetailsgivenbythesemenoftheappearancesofthecropsatdifferentparts,andtheastonishingminutenessofthespeakers\'topography,wewerepersuadedthatinsomecaseswewerewrong,andfeltratherhumiliated。Everyknoll,hill,mountain,andeverypeakonarangehasaname;andsohaseverywatercourse,dell,andplain。Infact,everyfeatureandportionofthecountryissominutelydistinguishedbyappropriatenames,thatitwouldtakealifetimetodeciphertheirmeaning。Itisnotthewant,butthesuperabundanceofnamesthatmisleadstravellers,andthetermsusedaresomultifariousthatgoodscholarswillattimesscarcelyknowmorethanthesubjectofconversation。 Thoughitisalittleapartfromthetopicoftheattentionwhichtheheadmenpaytoagriculture,yetitmaybeherementioned,whilespeakingofthefulnessofthelanguage,thatwehaveheardaboutascoreofwordstoindicatedifferentvarietiesofgait——onewalksleaningforward,orbackward,swayingfromsidetoside,loungingly,orsmartly,swaggeringly,swingingthearms,oronlyonearm,headdownorup,orotherwise;eachofthesemodesofwalkingwasexpressedbyaparticularverb;andmorewordswereusedtodesignatethedifferentvarietiesoffoolsthanweevertriedtocount。