Mr。MoffathastranslatedthewholeBibleintothelanguageoftheBechuana,andhasdiligentlystudiedthistongueforthelastforty-
four-years;and,thoughknowingfarmoreofthelanguagethananyofthenativeswhohavebeenrearedontheMission-stationofKuruman,hedoesnotpretendtohavemastereditfullyevenyet。Howevercopiousitmaybeintermsofwhichwedonotfeelthenecessity,itispoorinothers,asinabstractterms,andwordsusedtodescribementaloperations。
Ourthirdday\'smarchendedintheafternoonofthe27thSeptember,1863,atthevillageofChinangaonthebanksofabranchoftheLoangwa。Alarge,roundedmassofgranite,athousandfeethigh,calledNomberume,standontheplainafewmilesoff。Itisquiteremarkable,becauseithassolittlevegetationonit。Severalothergranitichillsstandnearit,ornamentedwithtrees,likemostheightsofthiscountry,andaheapofbluemountainsappearsawayinthenorth。
Theeffectofthepiercingwindsuponthemenhadneverbeengotridof。Severalhadbeenunabletocarryaloadeversinceweascendedtothehighlands;wehadlostone,andanotherpoorladwassoillastocauseusgreatanxiety。Bywaitinginthisvillage,whichwassooldthatitwasfullofvermin,allbecameworse。OurEuropeanfoodwasentirelyexpended,andnativemeal,thoughfinelyground,hassomanysharpangularparticlesinit,thatitbroughtbackdysentery,fromwhichwehadsufferedsomuchinMay。Wecouldscarcelyobtainfoodforthemen。TheheadmanofthisvillageofChinangawasoffinaforayagainstsomepeoplefurthernorthtosupplyslavestothetradersexpectedalongtheslaveroutewehadjustleft;andwassaid,afterhavingexpelledtheinhabitants,tobelivingintheirstockade,anddevouringtheircorn。Theconqueredtribehadpurchasedwhatwascalledapeacebypresentingtheconquerorwiththreewomen。
Thisstateofmattersaffordedusbutapoorprospectoffindingmoreprovisionsinthatdirectionthanwecouldwithgreatdifficultyandatenormouspricesobtainhere。Butneitherwantoffood,dysentery,norslavewarswouldhavepreventedourworkingourwayroundtheLakeinsomeotherdirection,hadwehadtime;butwehadreceivedordersfromtheForeignOfficetotakethe\"Pioneer\"downtotheseainthepreviousApril。Thesalariesofallthemeninherwerepositively\"inanycasetoceasebythe31stofDecember。”
Weweresaidtobeonlytendays\'distantfromLakeBemba。Wemightspeculateonalateriseoftheriver。Amonthorsixweekswouldsecureageographicalfeat,buttherainswerenear。Wehadbeenwarnedbydifferentpeoplethattherainswerecloseathand,andthatweshouldthenbeboggedandunabletotravel。Thefloodintherivermightbeanearlyone,orsosmallinvolumeastogivebutonechanceofthe\"Pioneer\"descendingtotheocean。TheMakololotoowerebecomingdispiritedbysicknessandwantoffood,andwerenaturallyanxioustobebacktotheirfieldsintimeforsowing。Butinadditiontoallthisandmore,itwasfeltthatitwouldnotbedealinghonestlywiththeGovernment,werewe,forthesakeofalittleeclat,toriskthedetentionofthe\"Pioneer\"uptheriverduringanotheryear;sowedecidedtoreturn;andthoughwehadafterwardsthemortificationtofindthatweweredetainedtwofullmonthsattheshipwaitingforthefloodwhichweexpectedimmediatelyafterourarrivalthere,thechagrinwaslessenedbyaconsciousnessofhavingactedinafair,honest,above-boardmannerthroughout。
Onthenightofthe29thofSeptemberathiefcametothesleeping-
placeofourmenandstolealegofagoat。Oncomplainingtothedeputyheadman,hesaidthatthethiefhadfled,butwouldbecaught。
Hesuggestedafine,andofferedafowlandhereggs;butwishingthatthethiefaloneshouldbepunished,itwasadvisedthatHE
shouldbefoundandfined。TheMakololothoughtitbesttotakethefowlasameansofmakingthepunishmentcertain。AftersettlingthismatteronthelastdayofSeptember,wecommencedourreturnjourney。Wehadjustthesametimetogobacktotheship,thatwehadspentincomingtothispoint,andthereisnotmuchtointerestoneinmarchingoverthesamegroundasecondtime。
Whileonourjourneynorth-west,acheeryoldwoman,whohadoncebeenbeautiful,butwhosewhitehairnowcontrastedstronglywithherdarkcomplexion,wasworkingbrisklyinhergardenaswepassed。Sheseemedtoenjoyahale,heartyoldage。Shesaluteduswithwhatelsewherewouldbecalledagoodaddress;and,evidentlyconsciousthatshedeservedtheepithet,\"darkbutcomely,\"answeredeachofuswithafrank\"Yes,mychild。”Anothermotherly-lookingwoman,sittingbyawell,begantheconversationby\"YouaregoingtovisitMuazi,andyouhavecomefromafar,haveyounot?\"Butingeneralwomenneverspeaktostrangersunlessspokento,soanythingsaidbythemattractsattention。Muazioncepresenteduswithabasketofcorn。Onhintingthatwehadnowifetogrindourcorn,hisbuxomspousestruckinwithroguishglee,andsaid,\"Iwillgrinditforyou;andleaveMuazi,toaccompanyandcookforyouinthelandofthesettingsun。”Asarulethewomenaremodestandretiringintheirdemeanour,and,withoutbeingoppressedwithtoil,showagreatdealofindustry。Thecropsneedabouteightmonths\'attention。
Thenwhentheharvestishome,muchlabourisrequiredtoconvertitintofoodasporridge,orbeer。Thecornispoundedinalargewoodenmortar,liketheancientEgyptianone,withapestlesixfeetlongandaboutfourinchesthick。Thepoundingisperformedbytwooreventhreewomenatonemortar。Each,beforedeliveringablowwithherpestle,givesanupwardjerkofthebody,soastoputstrengthintothestroke,andtheykeepexacttime,sothattwopestlesareneverinthemortaratthesamemoment。Themeasuredthud,thud,thud,andthewomenstandingattheirvigorouswork,areassociationsinseparablefromaprosperousAfricanvillage。Bytheoperationofpounding,withtheaidofalittlewater,thehardoutsidescaleorhuskofthegrainisremoved,andthecornismadefitforthemillstone。Themealirritatesthestomachunlessclearedfromthehusk;withoutconsiderableenergyintheoperator,thehusksticksfasttothecorn。Solomonthoughtthatstillmorevigourthanisrequiredtoseparatethehardhuskorbranfromwheatwouldfailtoseparate\"afoolfromhisfolly。”\"Thoughthoushouldstbrayafoolinamortaramongwheatwithapestle,YETwillnothisfoolishnessdepartfromhim。”Therainbow,insomeparts,iscalledthe\"pestleoftheBarimo,\"orgods。Boysandgirls,byconstantpracticewiththepestle,areabletoplantstakesinthegroundbyasomewhatsimilaraction,inerectingahut,sodeftlythattheynevermissthefirstholemade。
Letanyonetrybyrepeatedlyjobbingapolewithallhisforcetomakeadeepholeintheground,andhewillunderstandhowdifficultitisalwaystostrikeitintothesamespot。
Asweweresleepingonenightoutsideahut,butnearenoughtohearwhatwasgoingonwithin,ananxiousmotherbegantogrindhercornabouttwoo\'clockinthemorning。\"Ma,\"inquiredalittlegirl,\"whygrindinthedark?\"Mammaadvisedsleep,andadministeredmaterialforasweetdreamtoherdarling,bysaying,\"Igrindmealtobuyaclothfromthestrangers,whichwillmakeyoulookalittlelady。”
Anobserveroftheseprimitiveracesisstruckcontinuallywithsuchlittletrivialtouchesofgenuinehumannature。
Themillconsistsofablockofgranite,syenite,orevenmicaschist,fifteenoreighteeninchessquareandfiveorsixthick,withapieceofquartzorotherhardrockaboutthesizeofahalfbrick,onesideofwhichhasaconvexsurface,andfitsintoaconcavehollowinthelargerandstationarystone。Theworkwomankneeling,graspsthisuppermillstonewithbothhands,andworksitbackwardsandforwardsinthehollowofthelowermillstone,inthesamewaythatabakerworkshisdough,whenpressingitandpushingfromhim。
Theweightofthepersonisbroughttobearonthemovablestone,andwhileitispressedandpushedforwardsandbackwards,onehandsupplieseverynowandthenalittlegraintobethusatfirstbruisedandthengroundonthelowerstone,whichisplacedontheslopesothatthemealwhengroundfallsontoaskinormatspreadforthepurpose。Thisisperhapsthemostprimitiveformofmill,andanteriortothatinorientalcountries,wheretwowomengrindatonemill,andmayhavebeenthatusedbySarahofoldwhensheentertainedtheAngels。
On2ndOctoberweappliedtoMuaziforguidestotakeusstraightdowntoChinsamba\'satMosapo,andthuscutoffanangle,whichweshouldotherwisemake,bygoingbacktoKota-kotaBay。HerepliedthathispeopleknewtheshortwaytoChinsamba\'sthatwedesiredtogo,butthattheyallwereafraidtoventurethere,onaccountoftheZulus,orMazitu。Wethereforestartedbackonouroldroute,and,afterthreehours\'march,foundsomeBabisainavillagewhopromisedtoleadustoChinsamba。
Wemeetwiththesekeentraderseverywhere。Theyareeasilyknownbyalineofhorizontalcicatrices,eachhalfaninchlong,downthemiddleoftheforeheadandchin。Theyoftenwearthehaircollectedinamassontheupperandbackpartofthehead,whileitisallshavenofftheforeheadandtemples。TheBabisaandWaiauorAjawaheadshavemoreoftheroundbullet-shapethanthoseoftheManganja,indicatingamarkeddifferenceincharacter;theformerpeoplebeinggreattradersandtravellers,thelatterbeingattachedtohomeandagriculture。TheManganjausuallyintrusttheirivorytotheBabisatobesoldattheCoast,andcomplainthatthereturnsmadenevercomeuptothehighpriceswhichtheyhearsomuchaboutbeforeitissent。Infact,bythetimetheBabisareturn,theexpensesofthejourney,inwhichtheyoftenspendamonthortwoataplacewherefoodabounds,usuallyeatupalltheprofits。
Ournewcompanionsweretradingintobacco,andhadcollectedquantitiesoftheroundballs,aboutthesizeofninepoundershot,intowhichitisformed。Oneofthemownedawoman,whosechildhadbeensoldthatmorningfortobacco。Themotherfollowedhim,weepingsilently,forhoursalongthewaywewent;sheseemedtobewellknown,foratseveralhamlets,thewomenspoketoherwithevidentsympathy;wecoulddonothingtoalleviatehersorrow——thechildwouldbekeptuntilsomeslave-traderpassed,andthensoldforcalico。Thedifferentcasesofslave-tradingobservedbyusarementioned,inordertogiveafairideaofitsdetails。
Wespentthefirstnight,afterleavingtheslaveroute,atthevillageofNkoma,amongasectionofManganja,calledMachewa,orMacheba,whosedistrictextendstotheBua。
ThenextvillageatwhichwesleptwasalsothatofaManganjasmith。
Itwasabeautifulspot,shadedwithtalleuphorbia-trees。Thepeopleatfirstfled,butafterashorttimereturned,andorderedusofftoastockadeofBabisa,aboutamiledistant。Wepreferredtoremaininthesmoothshadyspotoutsidethehamlet,tobeingpentupinatreelessstockade。Twentyorthirtymencamedroppingin,allfullyarmedwithbowsandarrows,someofthemwereatleastsixfeetfourinheight,yetthesegiantswerenotashamedtosay,\"WethoughtthatyouwereMazitu,and,beingafraid,ranaway。”Theirorderstouswereevidentlyinspiredbyterror,andsomusttherefusaloftheheadmantoreceiveacloth,orlendusahuthavebeen;butasweneverhadtheopportunityofrealizingwhatfeelingsasuccessfulinvasionwouldproduce,wedidnotknowwhethertoblamethemornot。
Theheadman,atalloldsmith,withanenormous,well-madeknifeofhisownworkmanship,camequietlyround,and,inspectingtheshelter,which,fromtherebeingabundanceoflonggrassandbushesnear,ourmenputupforusinhalfanhour,graduallychangedhistactics,and,intheevening,presenteduswithahugepotofporridgeandadeliciouslywell-cookedfowl,andmadeanapologyforhavingbeensorudetostrangers,andalamentationthathehadbeensofoolishastorefusethefineclothwehadoffered。Anotherclothwasofcoursepresented,andwehadthepleasureofpartinggoodfriendsnextday。
Ourguide,whobelongedtothestockadeneartowhichwehadslept,declinedtoriskhimselffurtherthanhishome。Whilewaitingtohireanother,Masikoattemptedtopurchaseagoat,andhadnearlyconcludedthebargain,whenthewifeofthewould-besellercameforward,andsaidtoherhusband,\"Youappearasifyouwereunmarried;sellingagoatwithoutconsultingyourwife;whataninsulttoawoman!Whatsortofmanareyou?\"Masikourgedtheman,saying,\"Letusconcludethebargain,andnevermindher;\"buthebeingbetterinstructed,replied,\"No,Ihaveraisedahostagainstmyselfalready,\"andrefused。
Wenowpushedontotheeast,soastogetdowntotheshoresoftheLake,andintothepartswherewewereknown。Thecountrywasbeautiful,wellwooded,andundulating,butthevillageswerealldeserted;andtheflightofthepeopleseemedtohavebeenquiterecent,forthegrainwasstandinginthecorn-safesuntouched。Thetobacco,thoughripe,remaineduncutinthegardens,andthewholecountrywaspainfullyquiet:theoppressivestillnessquiteunbrokenbythesingingofbirds,ortheshrillcallsofwomenwatchingtheircorn。
Onpassingabeautifulvillage,calledBangwe,surroundedbyshadytrees,andplacedinavalleyamongmountains,wewereadmiringthebeautyofthesituation,whensomeofthemuchdreadedMazitu,withtheirshields,ranoutofthehamlet,fromwhichwewereamiledistant。Theybegantoscreamtotheircompanionstogiveuschase。
Withoutquickeningourpacewewalkedon,andsoonwereinawood,throughwhichthefootpathwewerefollowingled。ThefirstintimationwehadoftheapproachingMazituwasgivenbytheJohannaman,Zachariah,whoalwayslaggedbehind,runningup,screamingasifforhislife。Thebundleswereallputinoneplacetobedefended;
andMasikoandDr。Livingstonewalkedafewpacesbacktomeetthecomingfoe。Masikokneltdownanxioustofire,butwasorderednottodoso。Forasecondortwoduskyformsappearedamongthetrees,andtheMazituwereasked,intheirowntongue,\"Whatdoyouwant?\"
Masikoadding,\"Whatdoyousay?\"Noanswerwasgiven,butthedarkshadeintheforestvanished。Theyhadevidentlytakenusfornatives,andthesightofawhitemanwassufficienttoputthemtoflight。HadwebeennearertheCoast,wherethepeopleareaccustomedtotheslave-trade,weshouldhavefoundthisaffairamoredifficultonetodealwith;but,asarule,thepeopleoftheinterioraremuchmoremildincharacterthanthoseontheconfinesofcivilization。
Theaboveverysmalladventurewasallthedangerwewereawareofinthisjourney;butareportwasspreadfromthePortuguesevillagesontheZambesi,similartoseveralrumoursthathadbeenraisedbefore,thatDr。LivingstonehadbeenmurderedbytheMakololo;andveryunfortunatelythereportreachedEnglandbeforeitcouldbecontradicted。
OnebenefitarosefromtheMazituadventure。Zachariah,andotherswhohadtoooftentobereprovedforlaggingbehind,nowtooktheirplacesinthefrontrank;andwehadnodifficultyinmakingverylongmarchesforseveraldays,forallbelievedthattheMazituwouldfollowourfootsteps,andattackuswhileweslept。
ApartyofBabisatobacco-traderscamefromtheN。W。toMolamba,whilewewerethere;andoneofthemassertedseveraltimesthattheLoapula,afteremergingfromMoelo,receivedtheLulua,andthenflowedintoLakeMofu,andthenceintoTanganyika;andfromthelast-
namedLakeintothesea。Thisisthenativeideaofthegeographyoftheinterior;and,totestthegeneralknowledgeofourinformant,weaskedhimaboutouracquaintancesinLonda;asMoene,Katema,ShindeorShinte,wholivesouth-westoftheriversmentioned,andfoundthatourfriendstherewereperfectlywell-knowntohimandtoothersofthesetravellednatives。IntheeveningtwooftheBabisacamein,andreportedthattheMazituhadfollowedustothevillagecalledChigaragara,atwhichwesleptatthebottomofthedescent。
Thewholepartyoftraderssetoffatonce,thoughthesunhadset。
Weourselveshadgivenrisetothereport,forthewomenofChigaragara,supposingusinthedistancetobeMazitu,fled,withalltheirhouseholdutensilsontheirheads,andhadnoopportunityafterwardsoffindingouttheirmistake。Wespentthenightwherewewere,andnextmorning,decliningNkomo\'sentreatytogoandkillelephants,tookourcoursealongtheshoresoftheLakesouthwards。
WehaveonlybeenattheLakeatoneseasonoftheyear:thenthewindblowsstronglyfromtheeast,andindeedthisisitsprevailingdirectionhencetotheOrangeRiver;anorthorasouthwindisrare,andseldomlastsmorethanthreedays。Asthebreezenowblewoveralargebodyofwater,towardsus,itwasdelightful;butwhenfacingitonthetable-landitwassostrongasmateriallytoimpedeourprogress,andaddedconsiderablytothelabouroftravelling。Hereitbroughtlargequantitiesoftheplant(Vallisneriae),fromwhichthenativesextractsaltbyburning,andwhich,ifchewed,atonceshowsitssalinepropertiesbythetaste。Cloudsofthekungo,orediblemidges,floatedontheLake,andmanyrestedonthebushesonland。
ThereedsalongtheshoresoftheLakewerestillcrowdedwithfugitives,andagreatlossoflifemustsincehavetakenplace;for,afterthecorntheyhadbroughtwiththemwasexpended,faminewouldensue。Evennowwepassedmanywomenandchildrendigginguptheroots,aboutthesizeofpeas,ofanaromaticgrass;andtheirwastedformsshowedthatthispoorhardfarewastoallay,ifpossible,thepangsofhunger。Thebabiesatthebreastcrowedtousaswepassed,theirmotherskneelingandgrubbingfortheroots;thepoorlittlethingsstilldrawingnourishmentfromthenaturalfountainwereunconsciousofthatsinkingofheartwhichtheirparentsmusthavefeltinknowingthatthesupplyforthelittleonesmustsoonfail。
Noonewouldsellabitoffoodtous:fishermen,even,wouldnotpartwiththeproduceoftheirnets,exceptinexchangeforsomeotherkindoffood。Numbersofnewly-madegravesshowedthatmanyhadalreadyperished,andhundredsweresoemaciatedthattheyhadtheappearanceofhumanskeletonsswathedinbrownandwrinkledleather。Inpassingmileaftermile,markedwiththesesadproofsthat\"man\'sinhumanitytomanmakescountlessthousandsmourn,\"oneexperiencesanoverpoweringsenseofhelplessnesstoalleviatehumanwoe,andbreathesasilentprayertotheAlmightytohastenthegoodtimecomingwhen\"manandmantheworldo\'er,shallbrothersbeforallthat。”Onesmallredeemingconsiderationinallthismiserycouldnotbutbefelt;theseillswereinflictedbyheathenMazitu,andnotby,orfor,thosewhosaytoHimwhoishigherthanthehighest,\"WebelievethatthoushaltcometobeourJudge。”
WecrossedtheMokole,restedatChitanda,andthenlefttheLake,andstruckawayN。W。toChinsamba\'s。Ourcompanions,whoweresomuchoppressedbytherarefiedairoftheplateau,stillshowedsignsofexhaustion,thoughnowonly1300feetabovethesea,anddidnotrecoverfleshandspiritstillweagainenteredtheLowerShireValley,whichisofsosmallanaltitude,that,withoutsimultaneousobservationswiththebarometerthereandonthesea-coast,thedifferencewouldnotbeappreciable。
Onalargeplainonwhichwespentonenight,wehadthecompanyofeightytobaccotradersontheirwayfromKasungutoChinsamba\'s。TheMazituhadattackedandkilledtwoofthem,nearthespotwheretheZulusfledfromuswithoutansweringourquestions。Thetraderswerenowsofrightenedthat,insteadofmakingastraightcoursewithus,theysetoffbynighttofollowtheshoresoftheLaketoTsenga,andthenturnwest。Itisthesightofshields,orgunsthatinspiresterror。Thebowmenfeelperfectlyhelplesswhentheenemycomeswitheventhesmallprotectiontheskinshieldaffords,orattacksthemintheopenfieldwithguns。Theymayshootafewarrows,buttheyaresuchpoorshotsthattentooneiftheyhit。Theonlythingthatmakesthearrowformidableisthepoison;forifthepoisonedbarbgoesinnothingcansavethewounded。AbowisinuseinthelowerendofLakeNyassa,butismorecommonintheMaravicountry,fromsixtoeightinchesbroad,whichisintendedtobeusedasashieldaswellasabow;butweneversawonewiththemarkonitofanenemy\'sarrow。ItcertainlyisnomatchfortheZulushield,whichisbetweenfourandfivefeetlong,ofanovalshape,andabouttwofeetbroad。SogreatistheterrorthisshieldinspiresthatwesometimesdoubtedwhethertheMazituherewereZulusatall,andsuspectedthatthepeopleofthecountrytookadvantageofthatfear,and,assumingshields,pretendedtobelongtothatnation。
Onthe11thOctoberwearrivedatthestockadeofChinsambainMosapo,andhadreasontobeverywellsatisfiedwithhiskindness。
Aparaffincandlewasinhiseyestheheightofluxury,andtheabilitytomakealightinstantaneouslybyalucifermatch,amarvelthatstruckhimwithwonder。Hebroughtallhisrelativesindifferentgroupstoseethestrangesights,——instantaneousfire-
making,andalight,withouttheannoyanceofhavingfireandsmokeinthemiddleofthefloor。Whentheywishtolookforanythinginthedark,awispofdriedgrassislighted。
Chinsambagaveusagreatdealofhiscompanyduringourvisits。Aswehaveoftenremarkedinothercases,achiefhasagreatdealtoattendtoinguidingtheaffairsofhispeople。Heisconsultedonalloccasions,andgiveshisadviceinastreamofwords,whichshowaveryintimateacquaintancewiththetopographyofhisdistrict;heknowseveryroodcultivated,everyweirputintheriver,everyhunting-net,loom,gorge,andeverychildofhistribe。Anyadditionmadetothenumberoftheselatterisnotifiedtohim;andhesendsthanksandcomplimentstotheparents。
Thepresentswhich,followingthecustomofthecountry,wegavetoeveryheadman,whereweeitherspentanightoralongerperiod,variedfromfourtoeightyardsofcalico。WehadsomeManchesterclothsmadeinimitationofthenativemanufacturedrobesoftheWestCoast,eachworthfiveorsixshillings。Tothemoreimportantofthechiefs,forcalicowesubstitutedoneofthesestronggaudydresses,ironspoons,aknife,needles,atindish,orpannikin,andfoundthesepresentstobevaluedmorethanthreetimestheirvalueinclothwouldhavebeen。Eightortenshillings\'worthgaveabundantsatisfactiontothegreediest;butthisistobeunderstoodastheprimecostofthearticles,andatraderwouldsometimeshaveestimatedsimilargenerosityasequaltofrom30to50pounds。Insomecasesthepresentswegaveexceededthevalueofwhatwasreceivedinreturn;inotherstheexcessofgenerositywasonthenativeside。
Weneveraskedforleavetopassthroughthecountry;wesimplytoldwhereweweregoing,andaskedforguides;iftheywererefused,oriftheydemandedpaymentbeforehand,werequestedtobeputintothebeginningofthepath,andsaidthatweweresorrywecouldnotagreeabouttheguides,andusuallytheyandwestartedtogether。GreatercarewouldberequiredonenteringtheMazituorZulucountry,fortheretheGovernmentextendsoververylargedistricts,whileamongtheManganjaeachlittledistrictisindependentofeveryother。ThepeopleherehavenotadoptedtheexactingsystemoftheBanyai,orofthepeoplewhosecountrywastraversedbySpekeandGrant。
InourwaybackfromChinsamba\'stoChembi\'sandfromhisvillagetoNkwinda\'s,andthencetoKatosa\'s,weonlysawthepeopleworkingintheirgardens,neartothestockades。Thesestrongholdswerestrengthenedwithbranchesofacacias,coveredwithstronghookedthorns;andwereallcrowdedwithpeople。Theairwasnowclearerthanwhenwewentnorth,andwecouldseethehillsofKirk\'sRangefiveorsixmilestothewestofourpath。Thesunstruckveryhot,andthemenfeltitmostintheirfeet。Everyonewhocouldgetabitofgoatskinmadeitintoapairofsandals。
WhilesittingatNkwinda\'s,amanbehindthecourthedge-wallsaid,withgreatapparentglee,thatanArabslavingpartyontheothersideoftheconfluenceoftheShireandLakewere\"givingreadilytwofathomsofcalicoforaboy,andtwoandahalfforagirl;neversawtradesobrisk,nohagglingatall。”Thispartywaspurchasingforthesupplyoftheoceanslave-trade。Oneoftheevilsofthistrafficisthatitprofitsbyeverycalamitythathappensinacountry。Theslave-tradernaturallyreapsadvantagefromeverydisorder,andthoughinthepresentcasesomelivesmayhavebeensavedthatotherwisewouldhaveperished,asaruleheintensifieshatreds,andaggravateswarsbetweenthetribes,becausethemoretheyfightandvanquisheachotherthericherhisharvestbecomes。
Whereslavingandcattleareunknownthepeopleliveinpeace。Aswesatleaningagainstthathedge,andlistenedtotheharangueoftheslave-trader\'sagent,itglancedacrossourmindthatthiswasaterribleworld;thebestinitunable,fromconsciousimperfections,tosaytotheworst\"Standby!forIamholierthanthou。”Theslave-trader,imbuednodoubtwithcertainkindlyfeelings,yetpursuingacallingwhichmakeshimafairspecimenofahumanfiend,standsgroupedwiththosebywhomtheslave-tradersareemployed,andwithalltheworkersofsinandmiseryinmorehighly-favouredlands,anawfulpicturetotheAll-seingEye。
WearrivedatKatosa\'svillageonthe15thOctober,andfoundaboutthirtyyoungmenandboysinslave-sticks。TheyhadbeenboughtbyotheragentsoftheArabslavers,stillontheeastsideoftheShire。Theywererestinginthevillage,andtheirownerssoonremovedthem。Theweightofthegoreeseemedveryannoyingwhentheytriedtosleep。Thistaminginstrumentiskepton,untilthepartyhascrossedseveralriversandallhopeofescapehasvanishedfromthecaptive\'smind。
OnexplainingtoKatosatheinjuryhewasdoinginsellinghispeopleasslaves,heassuredusthatthosewhomwehadseenbelongedtotheArabs,andaddedthathehadfartoofewpeoplealready。HesaidhehadbeenlivinginpeaceatthelakeletPamalombe;thattheAjawa,orMachinga,underKainkaandKaramba,andabodyofBabisa,underMaonga,hadinducedhimtoferrythemovertheShire;thattheyhadlivedforaconsiderabletimeathisexpense,andatlaststolehissheep,whichinducedhimtomakehisescapetotheplacewherehenowdwelt,andinthisflighthehadlostmanyofhispeople。HisaccountoftheusualconductoftheAjawaquiteagreeswithwhatthesepeoplehavenarratedthemselves,andgivesbutalowideaoftheirmoraltone。TheyhaverepeatedlybrokenallthelawsofhospitalitybylivingformonthsonthebountyoftheManganja,andthen,byasuddenuprising,overcomingtheirhosts,andkillingorchasingthemoutoftheirinheritances。Thesecretoftheirsuccessisthepossessionoffirearms。TherewereseveraloftheseAjawahereagain,andonourarrivaltheyproposedtoKatosathattheyshouldleave;butherepliedthattheyneednotbeafraidofus。
Theyhadredbeadsstrungsothicklyontheirhairthatatalittledistancetheyappearedtohaveonredcaps。ItiscuriousthatthetasteforredhairshouldbesogeneralamongtheAfricanshereandfurthernorth;inthesouthblackmica,calledSebilo,andevensootareusedtodeepenthecolourofthehair;heremanysmeartheheadwithred-ochre,othersplaittheinnerbarkofatreestainedredintoit;andaredpowdercalledMukuruisemployed,whichsomesayisobtainedfromtheground,andothersfromtherootsofatree。
Ithavingbeendoubtedwhethersugar-caneisindigenoustothiscountryornot,weemployedKatosatoprocurethetwovarietiescommonlycultivated,withtheintentionofconveyingthemtoJohanna。
Oneisyellow,andtheother,likewhatweobservedintheBarotseValley,isvariegatedwithdarkredandyellowpatches,orallred。
Wehaveseenit\"arrow,\"orblossom。Bamboosalsoruntoseed,andthepeoplearesaidtousetheseedasfood。Thesugar-canehasnativenames,whichwouldleadustobelieveittobeindigenous。
HereitiscalledZimbi,furthersouthMesari,andinthecentreofthecountryMeshuati。Anythingintroducedinrecenttimes,asmaize,superiorcotton,orcassava,hasanameimplyingitsforeignorigin。
Katosa\'svillagewasemboweredamonggigantictreesoffinetimber:
severalcaffiaceousbushes,withberriescloselyresemblingthoseofthecommoncoffee,grewnear,butnousehadeverbeenmadeofthem。
Thereareseveralcinchonaceoustreesalsointhecountry;andsomeofthewildfruitsaresogoodastocauseafeelingofregretthattheyhavenotbeenimprovedbycultivation,orwhateverelsebroughtourstotheirpresentperfection。KatosalamentedthatthislocalitywassoinferiortohisformerplaceatPamalombe;therehehadmaizeatthedifferentstagesofgrowththroughouttheyear。Tous,however,heseemed,bydiggingholes,andtakingadvantageofthemoisturebeneath,tohavesucceededprettywellinraisingcropsatthisthedriesttime。TheMakololoremarkedthat\"herethemaizehadnoseason,\"——meaningthatthewholeyearwasproperforitsgrowthandripening。ByirrigationasuccessionofcropsofgrainmightberaisedanywherewithinthesouthintertropicalregionofAfrica。
WhenwewerewithMotunda,onthe20thOctober,hetoldusfranklythatallthenativeprovisionswerehiddeninKirk\'sRange,andhisvillagebeingthelastplacewhereasupplyofgraincouldbepurchasedbeforewereachedtheship,wewaitedtillhehadsenttohishiddenstores。Theuplandcountry,beyondthemountainsnowonourright,iscalledDeza,andisinhabitedbyMaravi,whoareonlyanothertribeofManganja。TheparamountchiefiscalledKabambe,andhe,havingneverbeenvisitedbywar,livesinpeaceandplenty。
Goatsandsheepthrive;andNyango,thechieftainessfurthertothesouth,hasherdsofhornedcattle。Thecountrybeingelevatedissaidtobecold,andtherearelargegrassyplainsonitwhicharedestituteoftrees。TheMaraviarereportedtobebrave,andgoodmarksmenwiththebow;but,throughoutallthecountrywehavetraversed,gunsareenablingthetradingtribestoovercometheagriculturalandmanufacturingclasses。
OntheascentattheendofthevalleyjustoppositeMountMvai,welookedbackforamomenttoimpressthebeautiesofthegrandvaleonourmemory。Theheatofthesunwasnowexcessive,andMasiko,thinkingthatitwasoverpowering,proposedtosendforwardtotheshipandgetahammock,inwhichtocarryanyonewhomightknockup。
Hewastrulykindandconsiderate。Dr。Livingstonehavingfallenasleepafterafatiguingmarch,aholeintheroofofthehuthewasinallowedthesuntobeatonhishead,andcausedasplittingheadacheanddeafness:whilehewasnearlyinsensible,hefeltMasikorepeatedlylifthimbacktothebedoffwhichhehadrolled,andcoverhimup。
Onthe24thwewereagaininBanda,atthevillageofChasundu,andcouldnowseeclearlythehotvalleyinwhichtheShireflows,andthemountainsoftheManganjabeyondtooursouth-east。Insteadoffollowingtheroadbywhichwehadcome,weresolvedtogosouthalongtheLesungwe,whichrisesatZunje,apeakonthesameridgeasMvai,andapartofKirk\'sRange,whichboundsthecountryoftheMaravionourwest。ThisisaboutthelimitofthebeatofthePortuguesenativetraders,anditisbutrecentlythat,followingourfootsteps,theyhavecomesofar。Itisnotlikelythattheirenterprisewillleadthemfurthernorth,forChasunduinformedusthattheBabisaunder-selltheagentsfromTette。Hehadtriedtodealwiththelatterwhentheyfirstcame;buttheyofferedonlytenfathomsofcalicoforatusk,forwhichtheBabisagavehimtwentyfathomsandalittlepowder。Ivorywasbroughttousforsaleagainandagain,and,asfaraswecouldjudge,thepriceexpectedwouldbeaboutoneyardofcalicoperpound,orpossiblymore,forthereisnoscaleofpricesknown。Theruleseemstobethatbuyerandsellershallspendagooddealoftimeintryingtocheateachotherbeforecomingtoanyconclusionoverabargain。
WefoundtheLesungweafinestreamnearitssource,andaboutfortyfeetwideandknee-deep,whenjoinedbytheLekudzi,whichcomesdownfromtheMaravicountry。