第9章

Heshowedmeitspedigree，oritshistory，ifyouplease； itwasadocumentwhichtracedthisplate\'smovementsallthewaydownfromitsbirth——showedwhoboughtit，fromwhom，andwhathepaidforit——fromthefirstbuyerdowntome，wherebyIsawthatithadgonesteadilyupfromthirty-fivecentstosevenhundreddollars。HesaidthatthewholeCeramicworldwouldbeinformedthatitwasnowinmypossessionandwouldmakeanoteofit，withthepricepaid。[Figure8] TherewereMastersinthosedays，but，alas——itisnotsonow。 Ofcoursethemainpreciousnessofthispieceliesinitscolor； itisthatoldsensuous，pervading，ramifying，interpolating，transborealbluewhichisthedespairofmodernart。 ThelittlesketchwhichIhavemadeofthisgemcannotanddoesnotdoitjustice，sinceIhavebeenobligedtoleaveoutthecolor。ButI\'vegottheexpression，though。 However，Imustnotbefritteringawaythereader\'stimewiththesedetails。Ididnotintendtogointoanydetailatall，atfirst，butitisthefailingofthetrueceramiker，orthetruedevoteeinanydepartmentofbrick-a-brackery，thatoncehegetshistongueorhispenstartedonhisdarlingtheme，hecannotwellstopuntilhedropsfromexhaustion。Hehasnomoresenseoftheflightoftimethanhasanyotherloverwhentalkingofhissweetheart。Thevery\"marks\"onthebottomofapieceofrarecrockeryareabletothrowmeintoagibberingecstasy；andIcouldforsakeadrowningrelativetohelpdisputeaboutwhetherthestoppleofadepartedBuonRetiroscent-bottlewasgenuineorspurious。 Manypeoplesaythatforamaleperson，bric-a-brachuntingisaboutasrobustabusinessasmakingdoll-clothes，ordecoratingJapanesepotswithdecalcomaniebutterflieswouldbe，andthesepeopleflingmudattheelegantEnglishman，Byng，whowroteabookcalledTHEBRIC-A-BRACHUNTER，andmakefunofhimforchasingaroundafterwhattheychoosetocall\"hisdespicabletrifles\"；andfor\"gushing\"overthesetrifles；andforexhibitinghis\"deepinfantiledelight\" inwhattheycallhis\"tuppennycollectionofbeggarlytrivialities\"；andforbeginninghisbookwithapictureofhimselfseated，ina\"sappy，self-complacentattitude，inthemidstofhispoorlittleridiculousbric-a-bracjunkshop。\" Itiseasytosaythesethings；itiseasytorevileus，easytodespiseus；therefore，letthesepeoplerailon； theycannotfeelasByngandIfeel——itistheirloss，notours。FormypartIamcontenttobeabrick-a-brackerandaceramiker——more，Iamproudtobesonamed。 IamproudtoknowthatIlosemyreasonasimmediatelyinthepresenceofararejugwithanillustriousmarkonthebottomofit，asifIhadjustemptiedthatjug。 Verywell；Ipackedandstoredapartofmycollection，andtherestofitIplacedinthecareoftheGrandDucalMuseuminMannheim，bypermission。MyOldBlueChinaCatremainsthereyet。Ipresentedittothatexcellentinstitution。 Ihadbutonemisfortunewithmythings。AneggwhichI hadkeptbackfrombreakfastthatmorning，wasbrokeninpacking。Itwasagreatpity。IhadshownittothebestconnoisseursinHeidelberg，andtheyallsaiditwasanantique。Wespentadayortwoinfarewellvisits，andthenleftforBaden-Baden。Wehadapleasanttriptoit，fortheRhinevalleyisalwayslovely。 Theonlytroublewasthatthetripwastooshort。 IfIrememberrightlyitonlyoccupiedacoupleofhours，thereforeIjudgethatthedistancewasverylittle，ifany，overfiftymiles。WequittedthetrainatOos，andwalkedtheentireremainingdistancetoBaden-Baden，withtheexceptionofaliftoflessthananhourwhichwegotonapassingwagon，theweatherbeingexhaustinglywarm。 Wecameintotownonfoot。 Oneofthefirstpersonsweencountered，aswewalkedupthestreet，wastheRev。Mr——，anoldfriendfromAmerica——aluckyencounter，indeed，forhisisamostgentle，refined，andsensitivenature，andhiscompanyandcompanionshipareagenuinerefreshment。 WeknewhehadbeeninEuropesometime，butwerenotatallexpectingtorunacrosshim。Bothpartiesburstforthintolovingenthusiasms，andRev。Mr——said: \"Ihavegotabrimfulreservoiroftalktopouroutonyou，andanemptyonereadyandthirstingtoreceivewhatyouhavegot；wewillsituptillmidnightandhaveagoodsatisfyinginterchange，forIleavehereearlyinthemorning。\"Weagreedtothat，ofcourse。 Ihadbeenvaguelyconscious，forawhile，ofapersonwhowaswalkinginthestreetabreastofus；Ihadglancedfurtivelyathimonceortwice，andnoticedthathewasafine，large，vigorousyoungfellow，withanopen，independentcountenance，faintlyshadedwithapaleandevenalmostimperceptiblecropofearlydown，andthathewasclothedfromheadtoheelincoolandenviablesnow-whitelinen。IthoughtIhadalsonoticedthathisheadhadasortoflisteningtilttoit。 NowaboutthistimetheRev。Mr——said: \"Thesidewalkishardlywideenoughforthree，soIwillwalkbehind；butkeepthetalkgoing，keepthetalkgoing，there\'snotimetolose，andyoumaybesureIwilldomyshare。\"Herangedhimselfbehindus，andstraightwaythatstatelysnow-whiteyoungfellowcloseduptothesidewalkalongsidehim，fetchedhimacordialslapontheshoulderwithhisbroadpalm，andsungoutwithaheartycheeriness: \"AMERICANSfortwo-and-a-halfandthemoneyup!HEY?\" TheReverendwinced，butsaidmildly: \"Yes——weareAmericans。\" \"Lordloveyou，youcanjustbetthat\'swhat_I_am，everytime!Putitthere!\" HeheldouthisSaharaofhispalm，andtheReverendlaidhisdiminutivehandinit，andgotsocordialashakethatweheardhisgloveburstunderit。 \"Say，didn\'tIputyouupright?\" \"Oh，yes。\" \"Sho!IspottedyouforMYkindtheminuteIheardyourclack。Youbeenoverherelong?\" \"Aboutfourmonths。Haveyoubeenoverlong?\" \"LONG?Well，Ishouldsayso!GoingontwoYEARS，bygeeminy!Say，areyouhomesick?\" \"No，Ican\'tsaythatIam。Areyou?\" \"Oh，HELL，yes!\"Thiswithimmenseenthusiasm。 TheReverendshrunkalittle，inhisclothes，andwewereaware，ratherbyinstinctthanotherwise，thathewasthrowingoutsignalsofdistresstous；butwedidnotinterfereortrytosuccorhim，forwewerequitehappy。 TheyoungfellowhookedhisarmintotheReverend\'s，now，withtheconfidingandgratefulairofawaifwhohasbeenlongingforafriend，andasympatheticear，andachancetolisponcemorethesweetaccentsofthemother-tongue——andthenhelimberedupthemusclesofhismouthandturnedhimselfloose——andwithsucharelish!SomeofhiswordswerenotSunday-schoolwords，soIamobligedtoputblankswheretheyoccur。 \"Yesindeedy!If_I_ain\'tanAmericanthereAIN\'T anyAmericans，that\'sall。AndwhenIheardyoufellowsgassingawayinthegoodoldAmericanlanguage，I\'m—— ifitwasn\'tallIcoulddotokeepfromhuggingyou!Mytongue\'sallwarpedwithtryingtocurlitaroundthese——forsakenwind-gallednine-jointedGermanwordshere； nowITELLyouit\'sawfulgoodtolayitoveraChristianwordoncemoreandkindoflettheoldtastesoakit。 I\'mfromwesternNewYork。MynameisCholleyAdams。 I\'mastudent，youknow。Beenheregoingontwoyears。 I\'mlearningtobeahorse-doctor!ILIKEthatpartofit，youknow，but——thesepeople，theywon\'tlearnafellowinhisownlanguage，theymakehimlearninGerman；sobeforeIcouldtacklethehorse-doctoringIhadtotacklethismiserablelanguage。 \"Firstoff，Ithoughtitwouldcertainlygivemethebotts，butIdon\'tmindnow。I\'vegotitwherethehair\'sshort，Ithink；anddontchuknow，theymademelearnLatin，too。Nowbetweenyouandme，Iwouldn\'tgivea——foralltheLatinthatwaseverjabbered； andthefirstthing_I_calculatetodowhenIgetthrough，istojustsitdownandforgetit。\'Twon\'ttakemelong，andIdon\'tmindthetime，anyway。AndItellyouwhat! thedifferencebetweenschool-teachingoveryonderandschool-teachingoverhere——sho!WEdon\'tknowanythingaboutit!Hereyou\'regottopegandpegandpegandtherejustain\'tanylet-up——andwhatyoulearnhere，you\'vegottoKNOW，dontchuknow——orelseyou\'llhaveoneofthese——spavined，spectacles，ring-boned，knock-kneedoldprofessorsinyourhair。I\'vebeenherelongENOUGH，andI\'mgettingblessedtiredofit，mindITELLyou。 TheoldmanwrotemethathewascomingoverinJune，andsaidhe\'dtakemehomeinAugust，whetherIwasdonewithmyeducationornot，butdurnhim，hedidn\'tcome； neversaidwhy；justsentmeahamperofSunday-schoolbooks，andtoldmetobegood，andholdonawhile。 Idon\'ttaketoSunday-schoolbooks，dontchuknow——I don\'thankerafterthemwhenIcangetpie——butI READthem，anyway，becausewhatevertheoldmantellsmetodo，that\'sthethingthatI\'ma-goingtoDO，ortearsomething，youknow。Ibuckledinandreadallthosebooks，becausehewantedmeto；butthatkindofthingdon\'texciteME，IlikesomethingHEARTY。 ButI\'mawfulhomesick。I\'mhomesickfromear-sockettocrupper，andfromcruppertohock-joint；butitain\'tanyuse，I\'vegottostayhere，tilltheoldmandropstheragandgivetheword——yes，SIR，righthereinthis——countryI\'vegottolingertilltheoldmansaysCOME!——andyoubetyourbottomdollar，Johnny，itAIN\'T justaseasyasitisforacattohavetwins!\" Attheendofthisprofaneandcordialexplosionhefetchedaprodigious\"WHOOSH!\"torelievehislungsandmakerecognitionoftheheat，andthenhestraightwaydivedintohisnarrativeagainfor\"Johnny\'s\"benefit，beginning，\"Well，——itain\'tanyusetalking，someofthoseoldAmericanwordsDOhaveakindofabullyswingtothem；amancanEXPRESShimselfwith\'em——amancangetatwhathewantstoSAY，dontchuknow。\" WhenwereachedourhotelanditseemedthathewasabouttolosetheReverend，heshowedsomuchsorrow，andbeggedsohardandsoearnestlythattheReverend\'sheartwasnothardenoughtoholdoutagainstthepleadings—— sohewentawaywiththeparent-honoringstudent，likearightChristian，andtooksupperwithhiminhislodgings，andsatinthesurf-beatofhisslangandprofanitytillnearmidnight，andthenlefthim——lefthimprettywelltalkedout，butgrateful\"cleardowntohisfrogs，\" asheexpressedit。TheReverendsaidithadtranspiredduringtheinterviewthat\"Cholley\"Adams\'sfatherwasanextensivedealerinhorsesinwesternNewYork； thisaccountedforCholley\'schoiceofaprofession。 TheReverendbroughtawayaprettyhighopinionofCholleyasamanlyyoungfellow，withstuffinhimforausefulcitizen；heconsideredhimratheraroughgem，butagem，nevertheless。 CHAPTERXXI [InsolentShopkeepersandGabblingAmericans] Baden-Badensitsinthelapofthehills，andthenaturalandartificialbeautiesofthesurroundingsarecombinedeffectivelyandcharmingly。Thelevelstripofgroundwhichstretchesthroughandbeyondthetownislaidoutinhandsomepleasuregrounds，shadedbynobletreesandadornedatintervalswithloftyandsparklingfountain-jets。ThriceadayafinebandmakesmusicinthepublicpromenadebeforetheConversationHouse，andintheafternoonandeveningthatlocalityispopulouswithfashionablydressedpeopleofbothsexes，whomarchbackandforthpastthegreatmusic-standandlookverymuchbored，thoughtheymakeashowoffeelingotherwise。 Itseemslikearatheraimlessandstupidexistence。 Agoodmanyofthesepeoplearethereforarealpurpose，however；theyarerackedwithrheumatism，andtheyaretheretostewitoutinthehotbaths。 Theseinvalidslookedmelancholyenough，limpingaboutontheircanesandcrutches，andapparentlybroodingoverallsortsofcheerlessthings。PeoplesaythatGermany，withherdampstonehouses，isthehomeofrheumatism。 Ifthatisso，Providencemusthaveforeseenthatitwouldbeso，andthereforefilledthelandwiththehealingbaths。PerhapsnoothercountryissogenerouslysuppliedwithmedicinalspringsasGermany。Someofthesebathsaregoodforoneailment，someforanother； andagain，peculiarailmentsareconqueredbycombiningtheindividualvirtuesofseveraldifferentbaths。 Forinstance，forsomeformsofdisease，thepatientdrinksthenativehotwaterofBaden-Baden，withaspoonfulofsaltfromtheCarlsbadspringsdissolvedinit。 Thatisnotadosetobeforgottenrightaway。 Theydon\'tSELLthishotwater；no，yougointothegreatTrinkhalle，andstandaround，firstononefootandthenontheother，whiletwoorthreeyounggirlssitpotteringatsomesortofladylikesewing-workinyourneighborhoodandcan\'tseemtoseeyou——politeasthree-dollarclerksingovernmentoffices。 Byandbyoneoftheserisespainfully，and\"stretches\"——stretchesfistsandbodyheavenwardtillsheraisesherheelsfromthefloor，atthesametimerefreshingherselfwithayawnofsuchcomprehensivenessthatthebulkofherfacedisappearsbehindherupperlipandoneisabletoseehowsheisconstructedinside——thensheslowlycloseshercavern，bringsdownherfistsandherheels，comeslanguidlyforward，contemplatesyoucontemptuously，drawsyouaglassofhotwaterandsetsitdownwhereyoucangetitbyreachingforit。Youtakeitandsay: \"Howmuch?\"——andshereturnsyou，withelaborateindifference，abeggar\'sanswer: \"NACHBELIEBE\"(whatyouplease。) Thisthingofusingthecommonbeggar\'strickandthecommonbeggar\'sshibbolethtoputyouonyourliberalitywhenyouwereexpectingasimplestraightforwardcommercialtransaction，addsalittletoyourprosperingsenseofirritation。 Youignoreherreply，andaskagain: \"Howmuch?\"—— andshecalmly，indifferently，repeats: \"NACHBELIEBE。\" Youaregettingangry，butyouaretryingnottoshowit； youresolvetokeeponaskingyourquestiontillshechangesheranswer，oratleastherannoyinglyindifferentmanner。 Therefore，ifyourcasebelikemine，youtwofoolsstandthere，andwithoutperceptibleemotionofanykind，oranyemphasisonanysyllable，youlookblandlyintoeachother\'seyes，andholdthefollowingidioticconversation: \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" \"Howmuch?\" \"NACHBELIEBE。\" Idonotknowwhatanotherpersonwouldhavedone，butatthispointIgaveup；thatcast-ironindifference，thattranquilcontemptuousness，conqueredme，andIstruckmycolors。NowIknewshewasusedtoreceivingaboutapennyfrommanlypeoplewhocarenothingabouttheopinionsofscullery-maids，andabouttuppencefrommoralcowards； butIlaidasilvertwenty-fivecentpiecewithinherreachandtriedtoshrivelherupwiththissarcasticspeech: \"Ifitisn\'tenough，willyoustoopsufficientlyfromyourofficialdignitytosayso?\" Shedidnotshrivel。Withoutdeigningtolookatmeatall，shelanguidlyliftedthecoinandbitit!——toseeifitwasgood。Thensheturnedherbackandplacidlywaddledtoherformerroostagain，tossingthemoneyintoanopentillasshewentalong。Shewasvictortothelast，yousee。 Ihaveenlargeduponthewaysofthisgirlbecausetheyaretypical；hermannersarethemannersofagoodlynumberoftheBaden-Badenshopkeepers。Theshopkeeperthereswindlesyouifhecan，andinsultsyouwhetherhesucceedsinswindlingyouornot。Thekeepersofbathsalsotakegreatandpatientpainstoinsultyou。 ThefrowsywomanwhosatatthedeskinthelobbyofthegreatFriederichsbadandsoldbathtickets，notonlyinsultedmetwiceeveryday，withrigidfidelitytohergreattrust，butshetooktroubleenoughtocheatmeoutofashilling，oneday，tohavefairlyentitledhertoten。Baden-Baden\'ssplendidgamblersaregone，onlyhermicroscopicknavesremain。 AnEnglishgentlemanwhohadbeenlivingthereseveralyears，said: \"Ifyoucoulddisguiseyournationality，youwouldnotfindanyinsolencehere。TheseshopkeepersdetesttheEnglishanddespisetheAmericans；theyarerudetoboth，moreespeciallytoladiesofyournationalityandmine。 Ifthesegoshoppingwithoutagentlemanoraman-servant，theyaretolerablysuretobesubjectedtopettyinsolences—— insolencesofmannerandtone，ratherthanword，thoughwordsthatarehardtobeararenotalwayswanting。 IknowofaninstancewhereashopkeepertossedacoinbacktoanAmericanladywiththeremark，snappishlyuttered，\'Wedon\'ttakeFrenchmoneyhere。\'AndIknowofacasewhereanEnglishladysaidtooneoftheseshopkeepers，\'Don\'tyouthinkyouasktoomuchforthisarticle?\' andherepliedwiththequestion，\'Doyouthinkyouareobligedtobuyit?\'However，thesepeoplearenotimpolitetoRussiansorGermans。Andastorank，theyworshipthat，fortheyhavelongbeenusedtogeneralsandnobles。 Ifyouwishtoseewhatabyssesservilitycandescend，presentyourselfbeforeaBaden-BadenshopkeeperinthecharacterofaRussianprince。\" Itisaninanetown，filledwithsham，andpettyfraud，andsnobbery，butthebathsaregood。Ispokewithmanypeople，andtheywereallagreedinthat。Ihadthetwingesofrheumatismunceasinglyduringthreeyears，butthelastonedepartedafterafortnight\'sbathingthere，andIhaveneverhadonesince。IfullybelieveIleftmyrheumatisminBaden-Baden。Baden-Badeniswelcometoit。 Itwaslittle，butitwasallIhadtogive。Iwouldhavepreferredtoleavesomethingthatwascatching，butitwasnotinmypower。 Thereareseveralhotspringsthere，andduringtwothousandyearstheyhavepouredforthanever-diminishingabundanceofthehealingwater。Thiswaterisconductedinpipetothenumerousbath-houses，andisreducedtoanendurabletemperaturebytheadditionofcoldwater。 ThenewFriederichsbadisaverylargeandbeautifulbuilding，andinitonemayhaveanysortofbaththathaseverbeeninvented，andwithalltheadditionsofherbsanddrugsthathisailmentmayneedorthatthephysicianoftheestablishmentmayconsiderausefulthingtoputintothewater。Yougothere，enterthegreatdoor，getabowgraduatedtoyourstyleandclothesfromthegorgeousportier，andabathticketandaninsultfromthefrowsywomanforaquarter；shestrikesabellandaserving-manconductsyoudownalonghallandshutsyouintoacommodiousroomwhichhasawashstand，amirror，abootjack，andasofainit，andthereyouundressatyourleisure。 Theroomisdividedbyagreatcurtain；youdrawthiscurtainaside，andfindalargewhitemarblebathtub，withitsrimsunktothelevelofthefloor，andwiththreewhitemarblestepsleadingdowntoit。 Thistubisfullofwaterwhichisasclearascrystal，andistemperedto28degreesRe\'aumur(about95degreesFahrenheit)。Sunkintothefloor，bythetub，isacoveredcopperboxwhichcontainssomewarmtowelsandasheet。 Youlookfullyaswhiteasanangelwhenyouarestretchedoutinthatlimpidbath。Youremaininittenminutes，thefirsttime，andafterwardincreasethedurationfromdaytoday，tillyoureachtwenty-fiveorthirtyminutes。 Thereyoustop。Theappointmentsoftheplacearesoluxurious，thebenefitsomarked，thepricesomoderate，andtheinsultssosure，thatyouverysoonfindyourselfadoringtheFriederichsbadandinfestingit。 Wehadaplain，simple，unpretending，goodhotel，inBaden-Baden——theHo^teldeFrance——andalongsidemyroomIhadagiggling，cackling，chatteringfamilywhoalwayswenttobedjusttwohoursaftermeandalwaysgotuptwohoursaheadofme。ButthisiscommoninGermanhotels； thepeoplegenerallygotobedlongafterelevenandgetuplongbeforeeight。Thepartitionsconveysoundlikeadrum-head，andeverybodyknowsit；butnomatter，aGermanfamilywhoareallkindnessandconsiderationinthedaytimemakeapparentlynoefforttomoderatetheirnoisesforyourbenefitatnight。Theywillsing，laugh，andtalkloudly，andbangfurniturearoundinamostpitilessway。Ifyouknockonyourwallappealingly，theywillquietdownanddiscussthemattersoftlyamongthemselvesforamoment——then，likethemice，theyfalltopersecutingyouagain，andasvigorouslyasbefore。 Theykeepcruellylateandearlyhours，forsuchnoisyfolk。 Ofcourse，whenonebeginstofindfaultwithforeignpeople\'sways，heisverylikelytogetaremindertolooknearerhome，beforehegetsfarwithit。Iopenmynote-booktoseeifIcanfindsomemoreinformationofavaluablenatureaboutBaden-Baden，andthefirstthingIfalluponisthis: \"BADEN-BADEN(nodate)。LotofvociferousAmericansatbreakfastthismorning。TalkingATeverybody，whilepretendingtotalkamongthemselves。Ontheirfirsttravels，manifestly。Showingoff。Theusualsigns——airy，easy-goingreferencestogranddistancesandforeignplaces。\'WellGOOD-by，oldfellow—— ifIdon\'trunacrossyouinItaly，youhuntmeupinLondonbeforeyousail。\'\" ThenextitemwhichIfindinmynote-bookisthisone: \"Thefactthatabandof6，000Indiansarenowmurderingourfrontiersmenattheirimpudentleisure，andthatweareonlyabletosend1，200soldiersagainstthem，isutilizedheretodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。 ThecommonpeoplethinktheIndiansareinNewJersey。\" Thisisanewandpeculiarargumentagainstkeepingourarmydowntoaridiculousfigureinthematterofnumbers。 Itisratherastrikingone，too。Ihavenotdistortedthetruthinsayingthatthefactsintheaboveitem，aboutthearmyandtheIndians，aremadeuseoftodiscourageemigrationtoAmerica。Thatthecommonpeopleshouldberatherfoggyintheirgeography，andfoggyastothelocationoftheIndians，isamatterforamusement，maybe，butnotofsurprise。 ThereisaninterestingoldcemeteryinBaden-Baden，andwespentseveralpleasanthoursinwanderingthroughitandspellingouttheinscriptionsontheagedtombstones。 Apparentlyafteramanhaslaidthereacenturyortwo，andhashadagoodmanypeopleburiedontopofhim，itisconsideredthathistombstoneisnotneededbyhimanylonger。Ijudgesofromthefactthathundredsofoldgravestoneshavebeenremovedfromthegravesandplacedagainsttheinnerwallsofthecemetery。 Whatartiststheyhadintheoldtimes!Theychiseledangelsandcherubsanddevilsandskeletonsonthetombstonesinthemostlavishandgenerousway——astosupply——butcuriouslygrotesqueandoutlandishastoform。Itisnotalwayseasytotellwhichofthefiguresbelongamongtheblestandwhichofthemamongtheoppositeparty。 Buttherewasaninscription，inFrench，ononeofthoseoldstones，whichwasquaintandpretty，andwasplainlynottheworkofanyotherthanapoet。Itwastothiseffect: HereReposesinGod，CarolinedeClery，aReligieuseofSt。Denisaged83years——andblind。ThelightwasrestoredtoherinBadenthe5thofJanuary，1839 Wemadeseveralexcursionsonfoottotheneighboringvillages，overwindingandbeautifulroadsandthroughenchantingwoodlandscenery。ThewoodsandroadsweresimilartothoseatHeidelberg，butnotsobewitching。IsupposethatroadsandwoodswhichareuptotheHeidelbergmarkarerareintheworld。 OncewewanderedclearawaytoLaFavoritaPalace，whichisseveralmilesfromBaden-Baden。Thegroundsaboutthepalacewerefine；thepalacewasacuriosity。 ItwasbuiltbyaMargravinein1725，andremainsassheleftitatherdeath。Wewanderedthroughagreatmanyofitsrooms，andtheyallhadstrikingpeculiaritiesofdecoration。Forinstance，thewallsofoneroomwereprettycompletelycoveredwithsmallpicturesoftheMargravineinallconceivablevarietiesoffancifulcostumes，someofthemmale。 Thewallsofanotherroomwerecoveredwithgrotesquelyandelaboratelyfiguredhand-wroughttapestry。 Themustyancientbedsremainedinthechambers，andtheirquiltsandcurtainsandcanopiesweredecoratedwithcurioushandwork，andthewallsandceilingsfrescoedwithhistoricalandmythologicalscenesinglaringcolors。 Therewasenoughcrazyandrottenrubbishinthebuildingtomakeatruebrick-a-brackergreenwithenvy。 Apaintinginthedining-hallvergedupontheindelicate—— butthentheMargravinewasherselfatrifleindelicate。 Itisineverywayawildlyandpicturesquelydecoratedhouse，andbrimfulofinterestasareflectionofthecharacterandtastesofthatrudebygonetime。 Inthegrounds，afewrodsfromthepalace，standstheMargravine\'schapel，justassheleftit——acoarsewoodenstructure，whollybarrenofornament。ItissaidthattheMargravinewouldgiveherselfuptodebaucheryandexceedinglyfastlivingforseveralmonthsatatime，andthenretiretothismiserablewoodendenandspendafewmonthsinrepentingandgettingreadyforanothergoodtime。ShewasadevotedCatholic，andwasperhapsquiteamodelsortofaChristianasChristianswentthen，inhighlife。 TraditionsaysshespentthelasttwoyearsofherlifeinthestrangedenIhavebeenspeakingof，afterhavingindulgedherselfinonefinal，triumphant，andsatisfyingspree。 Sheshutherselfupthere，withoutcompany，andwithoutevenaservant，andsoabjuredandforsooktheworld。 Inherlittlebitofakitchenshedidherowncooking； sheworeahairshirtnexttheskin，andcastigatedherselfwithwhips——theseaidstograceareexhibitedthereyet。 Sheprayedandtoldherbeads，inanotherlittleroom，beforeawaxenVirginnichedinalittleboxagainstthewall； shebeddedherselflikeaslave。 Inanothersmallroomisanunpaintedwoodentable，andbehinditsithalf-life-sizewaxenfiguresoftheHolyFamily，madebytheveryworstartistthateverlived，perhaps，andclothedingaudy，flimsydrapery。 [1]ThemargravineusedtobringhermealstothistableandDINEWITHTHEHOLYFAMILY。Whatanideathatwas! Whatagrislyspectacleitmusthavebeen!Imagineit: Thoserigid，shock-headedfigures，withcorpsycomplexionsandfishglasseyes，occupyingonesideofthetableintheconstrainedattitudesanddeadfixednessthatdistinquishallmenthatarebornofwax，andthiswrinkled，smolderingoldfire-eateroccupyingtheotherside，mumblingherprayersandmunchinghersausagesintheghostlystillnessandshadowyindistinctnessofawintertwilight。 Itmakesonefeelcrawlyeventothinkofit。 1。TheSaviorwasrepresentedasaladofaboutfifteenyearsofage。Thisfigurehadlostoneeye。 Inthissordidplace，andclothed，bedded，andfedlikeapauper，thisstrangeprincesslivedandworshipedduringtwoyears，andinitshedied。Twoorthreehundredyearsago，thiswouldhavemadethepoordenholyground； andthechurchwouldhavesetupamiracle-factorythereandmadeplentyofmoneyoutofit。ThedencouldbemovedintosomeportionsofFranceandmadeagoodpropertyevennow。 CHAPTERXXII [TheBlackForestandItsTreasures] FromBaden-BadenwemadethecustomarytripintotheBlackForest。Wewereonfootmostofthetime。Onecannotdescribethosenoblewoods，northefeelingwithwhichtheyinspirehim。Afeatureofthefeeling，however，isadeepsenseofcontentment；anotherfeatureofitisabuoyant，boyishgladness；andathirdandveryconspicuousfeatureofitisone\'ssenseoftheremotenessofthework-dayworldandhisentireemancipationfromitanditsaffairs。 Thosewoodsstretchunbrokenoveravastregion； andeverywheretheyaresuchdensewoods，andsostill，andsopineyandfragrant。Thestemsofthetreesaretrimandstraight，andinmanyplacesallthegroundishiddenformilesunderathickcushionofmossofavividgreencolor，withnotadecayedorraggedspotinitssurface，andnotafallenleafortwigtomaritsimmaculatetidiness。 Arichcathedralgloompervadesthepillaredaisles； sothestrayflecksofsunlightthatstrikeatrunkhereandaboughyonderarestronglyaccented，andwhentheystrikethemosstheyfairlyseemtoburn。 Buttheweirdesteffect，andthemostenchantingisthatproducedbythediffusedlightofthelowafternoonsun； nosinglerayisabletopierceitswayin，then，butthediffusedlighttakescolorfrommossandfoliage，andpervadestheplacelikeafaint，greet-tintedmist，thetheatricalfireoffairyland。Thesuggestionofmysteryandthesupernaturalwhichhauntstheforestatalltimesisintensifiedbythisunearthlyglow。 WefoundtheBlackForestfarmhousesandvillagesallthattheBlackForeststorieshavepicturedthem。 ThefirstgenuinespecimenwhichwecameuponwasthemansionofarichfarmerandmemberoftheCommonCounciloftheparishordistrict。Hewasanimportantpersonageinthelandandsowashiswifealso，ofcourse。Hisdaughterwasthe\"catch\"oftheregion，andshemaybealreadyenteringintoimmortalityastheheroineofoneofAuerbach\'snovels，forallIknow。 Weshallsee，forifheputsherinIshallrecognizeherbyherBlackForestclothes，andherburnedcomplexion，herplumpfigure，herfathands，herdullexpression，hergentlespirit，hergenerousfeet，herbonnetlesshead，andtheplaitedtailsofhemp-coloredhairhangingdownherback。 Thehousewasbigenoughforahotel；itwasahundredfeetlongandfiftywide，andtenfeethigh，fromgroundtoeaves；butfromtheeavestothecombofthemightyroofwasasmuchasfortyfeet，ormaybeevenmore。Thisroofwasofancientmud-coloredstrawthatchafootthick，andwascoveredallover，exceptinafewtriflingspots，withathrivingandluxuriousgrowthofgreenvegetation，mainlymoss。Themosslessspotswereplaceswhererepairshadbeenmadebytheinsertionofbrightnewmassesofyellowstraw。Theeavesprojectedfardown，likesheltering，hospitablewings。Acrossthegablethatfrontedtheroad，andabouttenfeetabovetheground，rananarrowporch，withawoodenrailing；arowofsmallwindowsfilledwithverysmallpaneslookedupontheporch。Aboveweretwoorthreeotherlittlewindows，oneclearupunderthesharpapexoftheroof。 Beforetheground-floordoorwasahugepileofmanure。 Thedoorofthesecond-storyroomonthesideofthehousewasopen，andoccupiedbytherearelevationofacow。 Wasthisprobablythedrawing-room?Allofthefronthalfofthehousefromthegroundupseemedtobeoccupiedbythepeople，thecows，andthechickens，andalltherearhalfbydraught-animalsandhay。 Butthechieffeature，allaroundthishouse，wasthebigheapsofmanure。 WebecameveryfamiliarwiththefertilizerintheForest。 Wefellunconsciouslyintothehabitofjudgingofaman\'sstationinlifebythisoutwardandeloquentsign。 Sometimeswesaid，\"Hereisapoordevil，thisismanifest。\" Whenwesawastatelyaccumulation，wesaid，\"Hereisabanker。\"Whenweencounteredacountry-seatsurroundedbyanAlpinepompofmanure，wesaid，\"Doubtlessadukeliveshere。\" TheimportanceofthisfeaturehasnotbeenproperlymagnifiedintheBlackForeststories。ManureisevidentlytheBlack-Forester\'smaintreasure——hiscoin，hisjewel，hispride，hisOldMaster，hisceramics，hisbric-a-brac，hisdarling，histitletopublicconsideration，envy，veneration，andhisfirstsolicitudewhenhegetsreadytomakehiswill。ThetrueBlackForestnovel，ifitiseverwritten，willbeskeletonedsomewhatinthisway: SKELETONFORABLACKFORESTNOVEL