ThesuccesswhichattendedthepublicationinthisSeriesofIllustratedWorksofAWoman\'sJourneyroundtheWorld，hasinducedthepublicationofthepresentvolumeonacountrysolittleknownasIceland，andaboutwhichsolittlerecentinformationexists。
Thetranslationhasbeencarefullymade，expresslyforthisSeries，fromtheoriginalworkpublishedatVienna；andtheEditorhasaddedagreatmanynotes，wherevertheyseemednecessarytoelucidatethetext。
Inadditiontothematterwhichappearedintheoriginalwork，thepresentvolumecontainsatranslationofavaluableEssayonIcelandicpoetry，byM。Bergmann；atranslationofanIcelandicpoem，the\'Voluspa；\'abriefsketchofIcelandicHistory；andatranslationofSchiller\'sballad，\'TheDiver，\'whichisprominentlyalludedtobyMadamePfeifferinherdescriptionoftheGeysers。{1}
TheIllustrationshavebeenprintedintints，soastomaketheworkuniformwiththeJourneyroundtheWorld。
London，August1，1852。
AUTHOR\'SPREFACE
\"Anotherjourney——ajourney，moreover，inregionswhicheveryonewouldratheravoidthanseek。Thiswomanonlyundertakesthesejourneystoattractattention。\"
\"Thefirstjourney，forawomanALONE，wascertainlyratheraboldproceeding。Yetinthatinstanceshemightstillhavebeenexcused。
Religiousmotivesmayperhapshaveactuatedher；andwhenthisisthecase，peopleoftengothroughincrediblethings。Atpresent，however，wecanseenojustreasonwhichcouldexcuseanundertakingofthisdescription。\"
Thus，andperhapsmoreharshlystill，willthemajorityjudgeme。
Andyettheywilldomeagrievouswrong。Iamsurelysimpleandharmlessenough，andshouldhavefanciedanythingintheworldratherthanthatitwouldeverbemyfatetodrawuponmyselfinanydegreethenoticeofthepublic。Iwillmerelyindicate，asbrieflyasmaybe，mycharacterandcircumstances，andthenIhavenodoubtmyconductwillloseitsappearanceofeccentricity，andseemperfectlynatural。
WhenIwasbutalittlechild，Ihadalreadyastrongdesiretoseetheworld。WheneverImetatravelling-carriage，Iwouldstopinvoluntarily，andgazeafterituntilithaddisappeared；Iusedeventoenvythepostilion，forIthoughthealsomusthaveaccomplishedthewholelongjourney。
AsIgrewtotheageoffromtentotwelveyears，nothinggavemesomuchpleasureastheperusalofvoyagesandtravels。Iceased，indeed，toenvythepostilions，butenviedthemoreeverynavigatorandnaturalist。
Frequentlymyeyeswouldfillwithtearswhen，havingascendedamountain，Isawotherstoweringbeforeme，andcouldnotgainthesummit。
Imadeseveraljourneyswithmyparents，and，aftermymarriage，withmyhusband；andonlysettleddownwhenitbecamenecessarythatmytwoboysshouldvisitparticularschools。Myhusband\'saffairsdemandedhisentireattention，partlyinLemberg，partlyinVienna。
Hethereforeconfidedtheeducationandcultureofthetwoboysentirelytomycare；forheknewmyfirmnessandperseveranceinallIundertook，anddoubtednotthatIwouldbebothfatherandmothertohischildren。
Whenmysons\'educationhadbeencompleted，andIwaslivinginpeacefulretirement，thedreamsandaspirationsofmyyouthgraduallyawokeoncemore。Ithoughtofstrangemannersandcustoms，ofdistantregions，whereanewskywouldbeaboveme，andnewgroundbeneathmyfeet。IpicturedtomyselfthesupremehappinessoftreadingthelandoncehallowedbythepresenceofourSaviour，andatlengthmadeupmymindtotravelthither。
Asdangersanddifficultiesrosebeforemymind，IendeavouredtoweanmyselffromtheideaIhadformed——butinvain。ForprivationIcaredbutlittle；myhealthwasgoodandmyframehardy:Ididnotfeardeath。Andmoreover，asIwasborninthelastcentury，I
couldtravelALONE。Thuseveryobjectionwasovercome；everythinghadbeendulyweighedandconsidered。IcommencedmyjourneytoPalestinewithafeelingofperfectrapture；andbehold，Ireturnedinsafety。InowfeelpersuadedthatIamneithertemptingProvidence，norjustlyincurringtheimputationofwishingtobetalkedabout，infollowingthebentofmyinclinations，andlookingstillfurtheraboutmeintheworldIchoseIcelandformydestination，becauseIhopedtheretofindNatureinagarbsuchasshewearsnowhereelse。Ifeelsocompletelyhappy，sobroughtintocommunionwithmyMaker，whenIcontemplatesublimenaturalphenomena，thatinmyeyesnodegreeoftoilordifficultyistoogreatapriceatwhichtopurchasesuchperfectenjoyment。
Andshoulddeathovertakemesoonerorlaterduringmywanderings，I
shallawaithisapproachinallresignation，andbedeeplygratefultotheAlmightyforthehoursofholybeautyinwhichIhavelivedandgazeduponHiswonders。
Andnow，dearreader，Iwouldbegtheenottobeangrywithmeforspeakingsomuchofmyself；itisonlybecausethisloveoftravellingdoesnot，accordingtoestablishednotions，seemproperforoneofmysex，thatIhaveallowedmyfeelingstospeakinmydefence。
Judgeme，therefore，nottooharshly；butrathergrantmetheenjoymentofapleasurewhichhurtsnoone，whileitmakesmehappy。
THEAUTHOR。
VISITTOICELAND
CHAPTERI
Intheyear1845Iundertookanotherjourney；{2}ajourney，moreover，tothefarNorth。Icelandwasoneofthoseregionstowardswhich，fromtheearliestperiodofmyconsciousness，Ihadfeltmyselfimpelled。Inthiscountry，stampedasitisbyNaturewithfeaturessopeculiar，asprobablytohavenocounterpartonthefaceoftheglobe，Ihopedtoseethingswhichshouldfillmewithnewandinexpressibleastonishment。HowdeeplygratefuldoIfeeltoThee，OThouthathastvouchsafedtometobeholdthefulfilmentofthesemycherisheddreams!
Thepartingfromallmydearoneshadthistimefarlessbitterness；
Ihadfoundbyexperience，thatawomanofanenergeticmindcanfindherwaythroughtheworldaswellasaman，andthatgoodpeoplearetobemetwitheverywhere。Tothiswasaddedthereflection，thatthehardshipsofmypresentvoyagewouldbeofshortduration，andthatfiveorsixmonthsmightseemerestoredtomyfamily。
IleftViennaatfiveo\'clockonthemorningofthetenthofApril。
AstheDanubehadlatelycausedsomedevastations，onwhichoccasiontherailroadhadnotentirelyescaped，werodeforthefirstfourmiles，asfarasFlorisdorf，inanomnibus——notthemostagreeablemodeoftravelling。Ouromnibusesaresosmallandnarrow，thatonewouldsupposetheywerebuiltfortheexclusiveaccommodationofconsumptivesubjects，andnotforhealthy，andinsomecasesportlyindividuals，whosebulkisfurtherincreasedbyagoodlyassemblageofcloaks，furs，andovercoats。
Atthebarriersanewdifficultyarose。Wedeliveredupourpass-
warrants(passirscheine)inturn，withtheexceptionofoneyoungman，whowasquiteastoundedatthedemand。Hehadprovidednothingbuthispassportandtestimonials，beingtotallyunawarethatapass-warrantismoreindispensablethanalltherest。Invaindidhehastenintothebureautoexpostulatewiththeofficials，——wewereforcedtocontinueourjourneywithouthim。
Wewereinformedthathewasastudent，who，attheconclusionofterm，wasabouttomakeholidayforafewweeksathisparents\'
housenearPrague。Alas，pooryouth!hehadstudiedsomuch，andyetknewsolittle。Hehadnotevenanideaoftheoverwhelmingimportanceofthedocumentinquestion。ForthistriflingomissionheforfeitedthefaretoPrague，whichhadbeenpaidinadvance。
Buttoproceedwithmyjourney。
AtFlorisdorfajoyfulsurpriseawaitedme。Imetmybrotherandmyson，whohad，itappears，precededme。WeenteredthetraintoproceedincompanytoStockerau，aplacebetweentwelveandthirteenmilesoff；butwereobligedtoalighthalfway，andwalkashortdistance。TheEmbankmenthadgivenway。Luckilytheweatherwasfavourable，inasmuchaswehadonlyaviolentstormofwind。Haditrained，weshouldhavebeenwettedtotheskin，besidesbeingcompelledtowadeankle-deepinmud。Wewerenextobligedtoremainintheopenair，awaitingthearrivalofthetrainfromStockerau，whichunloadeditsfreight，andreceivedusinexchange。
AtStockerauIoncemoretookleaveofmycompanions，andwassoonsecurelypackedinthepost-carriagefortransmission。
Intravellingthisshortdistance，Ihadthusenteredfourcarriages；athingsufficientlydisagreeabletoanunencumberedperson，butinfinitelymoresotoonewhohasluggagetowatchover。
TheonlyadvantageIcoulddiscoverinallthiswas，thatwehadsavedhalfanhourincomingtheseseventeenmiles。Forthis，insteadof9fl。26kr。fromViennatoPrague，wepaid10fl。10kr。
fromStockerautoPrague，withoutreckoningexpenseofomnibusandrailway。Itwascertainlyadearly-boughthalf-hour。{3}
ThelittletownofZnaim，withitsneighbouringconvent，issituatedonalargeplain，extendingfromViennatoBudwitz，seventeenmilesbeyondZnaim；themonotonyoftheviewisonlybrokenhereandtherebylowhills。
NearSchelletauthescenerybeginstoimprove。Onthelefttheviewisboundedbyarangeofhighhills，witharuinedcastle，suggestiveoftragicaltalesofcenturiesgoneby。Firandpineforestsskirttheroad，andliescatteredinpicturesquegroupsoverhillanddale。
April11th。
Yesterdaytheweatherhadalreadybeguntobeungracioustous。AtZnaimwefoundthevalleysstillpartlycoveredwithsnow，andthefogwasattimessothick，thatwecouldnotseeahundredpacesinadvance；butto-dayitwasincomparablyworse。Themistresolveditselfintoamildrain，which，however，lostsomuchofitsmildnessaswepassedfromstationtostation，thateverythingarounduswassoonunderwater。Butnotonlydidweridethroughwater，wewereobligedtositinitalso。Theroofofourcarriagethreatenedtobecomeaperfectsieve，andtherainpouredsteadilyin。Hadtherebeenroomforsuchaproceeding，weshouldallhaveunfurledourumbrellas。
Onoccasionslikethese，Ialwayssilentlyadmirethepatienceofmyworthycountrymen，whotakeeverythingsogood-humouredly。WereI
aman，Ishouldpursueadifferentplan，andshouldcertainlynotfailtocomplainofsuchcarelessness。Butasawoman，Imustholdmypeace；peoplewouldonlyrailatmysex，andcallitill-
humoured。Besides，Ithankedmyguardian-angelforthesediscomforts，lookinguponthemasapreparationforwhatwastobefallmeinthefarNorth。
Passingseveralsmalltownsandvillages，weatlengthenteredtheBohemianterritory，closebehindIglau。ThefirsttownwhichwesawwasCzaslau，withitslargeopensquare，andafewneathouses；thelatterprovidedwithso-calledarbours(orverandahs)，whichenableonetopassroundthesquaredry-footed，eveninthemostrainyweather。
Journeyingonwards，wenoticedthefinecathedralandtownofKuttenberg，oncefamousforitsgoldandsilvermines。{4}Nextcomesthegreattobacco-manufactoryofSedlitz，nearwhichwefirstseetheElbe，butonlyforashorttime，asitsoontakesanotherdirection。PassingthesmalltownofCollin，wearewhirledclosebythebattle-fieldwhere，intheyear1757，thegreatKingFrederickpaidhisscoretotheAustrians。Anobelisk，erectedafewyearssincetothememoryofGeneralDaun，occupiesasmalleminenceontheright。OntheleftistheplainofKlephorcz，wheretheAustrianarmywasdrawnup。{5}
Ateleveno\'clockonthesamenightwereachedPRAGUE。
Asitwasmyintentiontopursuemyjourneyaftertwodays，myfirstwalkonthefollowingmorningwastothepolice-office，toprocureapassportandtheall-importantpass-warrant；mynexttothecustom-
house，totakepossessionofasmallchest，whichIhaddeliveredupfivedaysbeforemydeparture，andwhich，astheexpeditoraffirmed，IshouldfindreadyformeonmyarrivalatPrague。{6}Ah，Mr。
Expeditor!mychestwasnotthere。AfterSaturdaycomesSunday；butonSundaythecustom-houseisclosed。Soherewasadaylost，adayinwhichImighthavegonetoDresden，andevenvisitedtheopera。
OnMondaymorningIoncemorehastenedtotheofficeinanxiousexpectation；theboxwasnotyetthere。Anarrayofloadedwagonshad，however，arrived，andinoneoftheseitmightbe。Ah，howI
longedtoseemydarlinglittlebox，inorderthatImight——NOT
pressittomyheart，butunpackitinpresenceoftheexciseofficer!
ItookmerelyacursoryglanceatPrague，asIhadthoroughlyexaminedeverythingtheresomeyearsbefore。Thebeautiful\"Graben\"andHorse-marketoncemoreexcitedmyadmiration。ItwaswithapeculiarfeelingthatItrodtheoldbridge，fromwhichSt。
JohnofNepomukwascastintotheMoldauforrefusingtopublishtheconfessionofKingWenceslaus\'consort。{7}OntheoppositebankI
mountedtheHradschin，andpaidavisittothecathedral，inwhichalargesarcophagus，surroundedandbornebyangels，andsurmountedbyacanopyofcrimsondamask，isdedicatedtothememoryofthesaint。
Themonumentisofsilver，andtheworthofthemetalaloneisestimatedat80，000florins。Thechurchitselfisnotspacious，butisbuiltinthenobleGothicstyle；thelesseraltars，however，withtheirinnumerablegildedwoodenfigures，lookbycontrastextremelypuny。Inthechapelaremanysarcophagi，onwhichreposebishopsandknightshewninstone，butsomuchdamaged，thatmanyarewithouthandsandfeet，whilesomelackheads。Totheright，attheentranceofthechurch，isthecelebratedchapelofSt。Wenceslaus，withitswallsornamentedwithfrescoes，ofwhichthecoloursanddesignsarenowalmostobliterated。Itisfurtherenrichedwithcostlystones。
NotfarfromthecathedralissituatedthepalaceofCountCzernin，abuildingparticularlyfavouredwithwindows，ofwhichithasoneforeverydayintheyear。Iwasthereinanordinaryyear，andsaw365；howtheymanageinleap-yearIdonotknow。Theviewfromthebelvedereofthispalacewellrepaystheobserver。Ittakesintheoldandnewtown，thenobleriverwithitstwobridges(theancientvenerable-lookingstonestructure，andthegracefulsuspension-
bridge，sixhundredpaceslong)，andthehillsroundabout，clothedwithgardens，amongwhichappearneatcountry-houses。
Thestreetsofthe\"Kleinseite\"arenotparticularlyattractive，beingmostlytortuous，steep，andnarrow。Theycontain，however，severalremarkablepalaces，amongwhichthatofWallensteinDukeofFriedlandstandspre-eminent。{8}
AftervisitingSt。Nicholas\'Church，remarkablefortheheightofitsspireanditsbeautifullyarchedcupola，IbetookmyselftoWimmer\'sgardens，andthencetothe\"Bastei，\"aplaceofpublicresortwiththecitizensofPrague。
Icouldnowobservethedevastationcausedbytherisingofthewatershortlybeforemyarrival。TheMoldauhadoversteppeditsbanksinsoturbulentamanner，astocarryalongwithitseveralsmallhouses，andevenalittlevillagenotfarfromPrague，besidesdamagingallthedwellingsuponitsbanks。Thewaterhadindeedalreadyfallen，butthewallsofthehousesweresoakedthroughandthrough；thedoorshadbeencarriedaway，andfromthebrokenwindowsnofaceslookedoutuponthepassers-by。Thewaterhadrisentwofeetmorethanin1784，inwhichyeartheMoldauhadalsoattainedanunusualheight。
Fromthesametowerofobservation，Ilookeddownuponthegreatopenspaceboughtafewyearsago，andintendedtobeoccupiedbytheterminioftheViennaandDresdenrailroads。Althoughseveralhouseswereonlyjustbeingpulleddown，andthefoundationsofbutfewbuildingswerelaid，Iwasassuredthatwithinsixmonthseverythingwouldbecompleted。
Ihavestilltomentionacircumstancewhichstruckmeduringmymorningperegrinations，namely，thecuriousmethodinwhichmilk，vegetables，andotherprovisionsareherebroughttotown。IcouldhavefanciedmyselftransportedtoLaplandorGreenland，onmeetingeverywherecartstowhichtwo，three，orfourdogswereharnessed。
Onepairofdogswilldragthreehundredweightonlevelground；butwhentheyencounterahill，thedrivermustlendahelpinghand。
Thesedogsare，besides，carefulguardians；andIwouldnotadviseanyonetoapproachacarofthiskind，asitstandsbeforetheinn-
door，whiletheproprietorisquenchinghisthirstwithin，onthemoneyhehasjustearned。
Atfiveo\'clockonthemorningofthe15thofAprilIleftPrague，androdeforfourteenmilesinthemail-carriage，asfarasObristwyontheElbe，atwhichplaceIembarkedforDresden，onboardthesteamerBohemia，offifty-horsepower，amiserableoldcraft，apparentlyastrangertobeautyandcomfortfromheryouthup。Thepricechargedforthisshortpassageofeightorninehoursisenormouslydear。Thetravellerswill，however，soonhavetheirrevengeontheextortionateproprietors；arailroadisconstructing，bymeansofwhichthisdistancewillbetraversedinamuchshortertime，andatagreatsavingofexpense。
Butatanyratethejourneybywateristhemoreagreeable；thewayliesthroughverypicturesquescenery，andatlengththrough\"SaxonSwitzerland\"itself。Thecommencementofthejourneyis，however，farfrompleasing。Ontherightarenakedhills，andontheleftlargeplains，overwhich，lastspring，theswollenstreamrolled，partlycoveringthetreesandtheroofsofthecottages。HereI
couldforthefirsttimeseethewholeextentofthecalamity。Manyhouseshadbeencompletelytorndown，andthecrops，andeventheloosealluvialearthsweptaway；asweglidedbyeachdrearysceneofdevastation，anotheryetmoredismalwouldappearinitsplace。
ThiscontinuedtillwereachedMelnick，wherethetreesbecomehigher，andgroupsofhousespeerforthfromamongtheinnumerablevineyards。OppositethislittletowntheMoldaufallsintotheElbe。Ontheleft，inthefardistance，thetravellercandescrySt。George\'sMount，fromwhich，asthestorygoes，CzechtookpossessionofallBohemia。
BelowthelittletownofRaudnitzthehillsgaveplacetomountains，andasmanyenthusiastscanonlyfindthoseregionsromanticwherethemountainsarecrownedwithhalf-ruinedcastlesandstrongholds，goodoldTimehastakencaretoplanttheretwofineruins，HafenbergandSkalt，forthedelectationofsuchsentimentalobservers。
NearLeitmeritz，asmalltownwithahandsomecastle，andachurchandconvent，theEgerflowsintotheElbe，andahigh-archedwoodenbridgeconnectsthetwobanks。Hereourpoorsailorshaddifficultworktolowerthemastandthefunnel。
TheratherprettyvillageofGross-Czernoseckisremarkableforitsgiganticcellars，hewnoutoftherock。Apost-carriagecouldeasilyturnroundinoneofthese。Thevatsareofcourseproportionedtothecellars，particularlythebarrelscalledthe\"twelveapostles，\"eachofwhichholdsbetweenthreeandfourthousandgallons。Itwouldbenomorethanfairtostophereawhile，togiveeveryheroofthebottleanopportunitytoenjoyasightofthesepalace-cellars，andtoofferalibationtothetwelveapostles；butthesteamerpassedon，andwewereobligedtomakethemostofthedescriptionsfurnishedbythosewhoweremoreathomeintheseparts，andhadnodoubtfrequentlyemergedinaninspiredstatefromthedepthsofthecellarsinquestion。
Theviewnowbecomesmoreandmorecharming:themountainsappeartodrawclosertogether，andshutinthebedofthestream；romanticgroupsofrocks，withsummitscrownedbyrainsyetmoreromantic，towerbetween。Theancientbutwell-preservedcastleofSchreckenstein，builtonarockrisingboldlyoutoftheElbe，isparticularlystriking；theapproachestoitarebyserpentinewalkshewnoutoftherock。
NearthesmalltownofAussigwefindthemostconsiderablecoal-
minesinBohemia。IntheirneighbourhoodissituatedthelittlemountainestatePaschkal，whichproducesakindofwinesaidtoresemblechampagne。
Themountainsnowbecomehigherandhigher，butabovethemalltowersthegiganticJungfernsprung(Maiden\'sLeap)。ThebeautyofthisregionisonlysurpassedbythesituationofthetownandcastleofTetschen。Thecastlestandsonarock，betweentwentyandthirtyfeethigh，whichseemstoriseoutoftheElbe；itissurroundedbyhot-housesandcharminggardens，shelvingdownwardsasfarasthetown，whichliesinabloomingvalley，nearalittleharbour。Thevalleyitself，encompassedbyachainofloftymountains，seemsquiteshutoutfromtherestoftheworld。
Theleftbankoftheriverisheresocrowdedwithmassesandwallsofrock，thatthereisonlyroomatintervalsforanisolatedfarmorhut。Suddenlythetopsofmastsappearbetweenthehighrocks，aphenomenonwhichissoonexplained；alargegapinoneoftherockywallsformsabeautifulbasin。
AndnowwecometoSchandau，aplaceconsistingonlyofafewhouses；itisafrontiertownoftheSaxondominions。Custom-houseofficers，araceofbeingseverassociatedwithfrontiertowns，hereboardedourvessel，andrummagedeverything。Mydaguerreotypeapparatus，whichIhadlockedupinasmallbox，waslookeduponwithaneyeofsuspicion；butuponmyassertionthatitwasexclusivelyintendedformyownuse，Iandmyapparatusweregraciouslydismissed。
Inouronwardjourneywefrequentlyobservedrocksofpeculiarshapes，whichhaveappropriatenames，suchasthe\"Zirkelstein，\"
\"Lilienstein，\"&c。TheKonigsteinisacollectionofjaggedmassesofrock，onwhichisbuiltthefortressofthesamename，usedatpresentasaprisonforgreatcriminals。AtthefootoftherocksliesthelittletownofKonigstein。Notfaroff，ontherightbank，ahugerock，restingonothers，bearsastrikingresemblancetoahumanhead。Themoredistantgroupsofrocksarecalledthoseof\"Rathen，\"butareconsideredasbelongingtoSaxonSwitzerland。The\"Basteien\"(Bastions)ofthisSwitzerland，closebywhichwenowpass，aremostwonderfulsuperpositionsofloftyandfantasticallyshapedrocks。Unfortunately，thesteamerwhirledussorapidlyonourway，thatwhilstwecontemplatedonebank，thebeauteousscenesontheoppositesidehadalreadyglidedfromourview。InmuchtooshortatimewehadpassedthetownofPirna，situateatthecommencementofthisrangeofmountains。Theveryancientgateofthistowntowersfarabovealltheotherbuildings。
LastlyweseethegreatcastleSonnenstein，builtonarock，andnowusedasanasylumforlunatics。
Allthebeautifulandpicturesqueportionofourpassageisnowpast，andtheroyalvillaofPillnitz，withitsmanyChinesegables，looksinsignificantenough，afterthegrandscenesofnature。A
chainofhills，coveredwiththecountry-housesofcitizens，adjoinsit；andontherightextendsalargeplain，atthefarendofwhichwecandimlydescrytheSaxonmetropolis。Butwhatisthatinthedistance?Wehavehardlytimetoarrangeourluggage，whentheanchorisletgonearthefineoldDresdenBridge。
Thisbridgehadnotescapedunscathedbythefuriousriver。Oneofthecentrearcheshadgivenway，andthecrossandwatchboxwhichsurmounteditwereprecipitatedintotheflood。Atfirst，carriagesstillpassedoverthebridge；itwasnotuntilsometimeafterwardsthatthefullextentofthedamagewasascertained，andthepassageofcarriagesoverthebridgediscontinuedformanymonths。
AsIhadseenthetownofDresdenseveralyearsbefore，andtheonlybuildingnewtomewasthesplendidtheatre，Itookadvantageofthefeweveninghoursofmystaytovisitthisstructure。
StandinginthemidstofthebeautifulCathedral-square，itsnoblerotunda-likeformatoncerivetstheattention。Theinnertheatreissurroundedbyasuperbbroadandloftycorridor，withfinebow-
windowsandstraightbroadstaircases，leadingindifferentdirectionstowardsthegalleries。Theinteriorofthetheatreisnotsospaciousas，judgingfromtheexterior，onewouldimagineittobe，butthearchitectureanddecorationsaretrulygorgeousandstriking。Theboxesareallopen，beingseparatedfromeachothermerelybyalowpartition；thewallsandchairsarecoveredwithheavysilkendraperies，andtheseatsofthethirdandfourthgallerieswithamixtureofsilkandcotton。Onesinglecircumstancewasdisagreeabletomeinanacousticpointofview——I
couldheartheslightestwhisperoftheprompterasdistinctlyasthoughsomeonehadbeenbehindmereadingtheplay。Thecurtainhadscarcelyfallenbeforethewholehousewasempty，andyettherewasnocrowdingtogetout。Thisfirstdrewmyattentiontothenumerousandexcellentlycontriveddoors。
April16th。
TheDresdenomnibusesmaybecitedasmodelsofcomfort；oneiscertainofplentyofroom，andthereisnooccasiontodreadeitherthecorpulentpersonsorthefursandcloaksoffellow-passengers。
Abell-pullisfixedintheinteriorofthecarriage，sothateachindividualcangivethecoachmanasignalwhenheorshewishestoalight。Theseomnibusescallattheprincipalinns，andwaitforamoment；butthetravellerwhoisnotreadyinadvanceisleftbehind。
Athalf-pastfiveinthemorningitcalledatourhotel。Iwasreadyandwaiting，anddroveoffcomfortablytotherailway。ThedistancefromDresdentoLeipzigisreckonedatfifty-sixmiles，andthejourneyoccupiedthreehours。
Thefirstfourteenmilesareveryagreeable；gardens，fields，andmeadows，pine-forestsintheplainandonthehills，andbetweenthese，villages，farms，country-houses，andsolitarychapels，combinetoformaveryprettylandscape。Butthescenesoonchanges，andthetownofMeissen(famousforitsporcelainmanufactory)，ontherighthand，seemstoshutoutfromourviewallthatispicturesqueandbeautiful。
FromheretoLeipzigwetravelthroughawearisomemonotonousplain，enlivenedatlongintervalsbyvillagesandscatteredfarms。Thereisnothingtoseebutagreattunnel，andtheriverPleisse——thelatter，orrathertheElster，isrenderedfamousbythedeathofPrincePoniatowski。{9}
ThetownofLeipzig，celebratedfarandwideforitsfairs，andmoreforitsimmensepublishingtrade，presentsanappearanceofnoiseandbustleproportionatetoitscommercialimportance。Ifoundstreets，squares，andinnsalikecrowded。{10}
Perhapstheredoesnotexistatownwithitshouses，andconsequentlyitsstreets，sodisfiguredwithannouncements，inallsizesandshapes，coveringitswalls，andsometimesprojectingseveralfeet，asLeipzig。
Amongthepublicbuildings，thosewhichpleasedmemostweretheAugusteumandtheBurgerschule。TheBucherhalle(book-hall)I
shouldsupposeindebtedforitscelebrityrathertoitsliterarycontentsthantoitsarchitecturalbeautyoritsexterior。Thehallitselfisindeedlarge，andoccupiesthewholelengthofthebuilding，whilethelowerstoryconsistsofseveralrooms。Thehall，thechambers，andtheexteriorareallplain，andwithoutparticulardecoration。TheTuchhalle(cloth-hall)issimplyalargehouse，withspaciouschambers，containingsuppliesofcloth。TheTheatrestandsonaverylargesquare，anddoesnotpresentaverysplendidappearance，whetherviewedfromwithinorfromwithout。
Theplanofhavingstallsinfrontoftheboxesinthesecondandthirdgallerieswasanoveltytome。TheorchestraIcouldonlyhear，butcouldnotdiscoveritswhereabouts；mostprobablyitwaspostedbehindthescenes。Oninquiry，Iwastoldthatthiswasonlydoneonextraordinaryoccasions，whentheseatsintheorchestrawereconvertedintostalls，aswasthecaseonthenightofmyvisit。Theplaygivenwas\"theoriginalTartuffe，\"apopularpiecebyGutzkow。Itwascapitallyperformed。
IntheLeipzigtheatreIhadasecondopportunityofobserving，thatasregardstheloveofeatingourgoodSaxonsarenotawhitbehindthemuch-censuredViennese。IntheDresdentheatreIhadadmiredacoupleofladieswhosatnextme。Theycameprovidedwithaneatbag，containingaverysufficientsupplyofconfectionery，towhichtheyperseveringlyappliedthemselvesbetweentheacts。ButatLeipzigIfoundadelicate-lookingmotherandherson，aladoffifteenorsixteenyears，regalingthemselveswithmoresolidprovisions——whitebreadandsmallsausages。Icouldnotbelievemyeyes，andhadmadeupmymindthatthesausageswereartificiallyformedoutofsomekindofconfectionery——butalas!mynosecameforwardbuttoosoon，asapotentwitness，tocorroboratewhatIwassounwillingtobelieve!
NeitherdidthesetwoepisodestakeplaceintheloftiestregionsofThalia\'stemple，butinthestallsofthesecondtier。
BeautifulalleysareplantedroundLeipzig。ItookawalkintotheRosenthal(ValleyofRoses)，whichalsoconsistsofsplendidavenuesandlawns。Aprettycoffee-house，withaveryhandsomealcove，builtinasemicircularform，invitesthewearytravellertorestandrefreshment，whileabandofagreeablemusicdiffusesmirthandgoodhumouraround。
TherestofthesceneryaroundLeipzigpresentstheappearanceofavastandmonotonousplain。
April17th。
IhadintendedtocontinuemyjourneytoHamburghviaBerlin，buttheweatherwassocoldandstormy，andtherainpoureddownsoheavily，thatIpreferredtheshorterway，andproceededbyrailtoMagdeburg。FlyingthroughthedismalplainpastHalle，Kothen，andothertowns，ofwhichIcouldonlydiscerngroupsofhouses，wehurriedlyrecognisedtheSaaleandtheElbe；andtowards10o\'clockinthemorningarrivedatMagdeburg，havingtravelledseventymilesinthreehoursandaquarter。
AsthesteamerforHamburghwasnottostartuntil3o\'clock，Ihadampletimetolookatthetown。
Magdeburgisamixedpatternofhousesofancient，mediaeval，andmoderndates。Particularlyremarkableinthisrespectistheprincipalstreet，the\"Broadway，\"whichrunsthroughthewholeofthetown。Herewecanseehousesdatingtheiroriginfromthemostancienttimes；housesthathavestoodproofagainstsiegesandsackings；housesofallcoloursandforms；somesportingpeakedgables，onwhichstonefiguresmaystillbeseen；otherscoveredfromrooftobasementwitharabesques；andinoneinstanceIcouldevendetecttheremainsoffrescoes。Intheverymidstoftheserelicsofantiquitywouldappearahousebuiltintheneweststyle。
Idonotremembereverhavingseenastreetwhichproducedsoremarkableanimpressiononme。Thefinestbuildingisunquestionablythevenerablecathedral。InItalyIhadalreadyseennumbersofthemostbeautifulchurches；yetIremainedstandinginmuteadmirationbeforethismasterpieceofGothicarchitecture。
ThemonumentwiththetwelveApostlesinthischurchisaworthymemorialofthecelebratedsculptorVischer。Inordertoviewit，itisnecessarytoobtainthespecialpermissionofthecommandant。
Thecathedralsquareislarge，symmetrical，anddecoratedwithtwoalleysoftrees；itisalsousedasadrilling-groundforthesoldiers\'minormanoeuvres。Iwasparticularlystruckwiththenumberofmilitarymentobeseenhere。GowhereIwould，Iwassuretomeetsoldiersandofficers，frequentlyinlargecompanies；
intimeofwaritcouldscarcelyhavebeenworse。ThiswasanunmistakeabletokenthatIwasonPrussianterritory。
Theopencanals，whichcomefromallthehouses，andmeanderthroughthestreets，areagreatdisfigurementtothetown。
Half-pastthreeo\'clockcameonlytooquickly，andIbetookmyselfonboardthesteamerMagdeburg，ofsixty-horsepower，toproceedtoHamburgh。OfthepassageitselfIcansaynothing，exceptthatajourneyonariverthroughexecrablesceneryisoneofthemostmiserablethingsthatcanwellbeimagined。When，inadditiontothis，theweatherisbad，theshipdirty，andoneisobligedtopassanightonboard，thediscomfortisincreased。Itwasmylottoendureallthis:theweatherwasbad，theshipwasdirty，thedistancemorethan100miles，sothatwehadthepleasantprospectofadelightfulnightonboardtheship。Therewere，moreover，somanypassengers，thatwewereforcedtositcrowdedtogether；sotherewesatwithexemplarypatience，staredateachother，andsighedbitterly。Orderwasentirelyoutofthequestion；noonehadtimetothinkofsuchathing。Smokingandcard-playingwereperseveringlycarriedonalldayandallnight；itcaneasilybeimaginedthatthingsdidnotgosoquietlyasatanEnglishwhist-
party。Theincessantrainrendereditimpossibletoleavethecabinevenforashorttime。TheonlyconsolationIhadwas，thatImadetheacquaintanceoftheamiablecomposerLorzing，acircumstancewhichdelightedmethemore，asIhadalwaysbeenanadmirerofhisbeautifuloriginalmusic。
CHAPTERII
Morningdawnedatlength，andinashorttimeafterwardswereachedthegreatcommercialcity，which，halfdestroyedbythedreadfulconflagrationof1842，hadrisengranderandmoremajesticfromitsashes。{11}Itookupmyquarterswithacousin，whoismarriedtotheWurtemburgconsul，themerchantSchmidt，inwhosehouseIspentamostagreeableandhappyweek。Mycousin-in-lawwaspoliteenoughtoescortmeeverywherehimself，andtoshewmethelionsofHamburgh。
FirstofallwevisitedtheExchangebetweenthehoursofoneandtwo，whenitisatthefullest，andthereforebestcalculatedtoimpressastrangerwithanideaoftheextentandimportanceofthebusinesstransactedthere。Thebuildingcontainsahallofgreatsize，witharcadesandgalleries，besidesmanylargerooms，whicharepartlyusedforconsultations，partlyforthesaleofrefreshments。Themostinterestingthingofallis，however，tositinthegallery，andlookingdownwards，toobservethecontinuallyincreasingcrowdpassingandrepassingeachotherintheimmensehallandthroughthegalleriesandchambers，andtolistentothehubbubandnoiseofthethousandsofeagervoicestalkingatonce。
Athalf-pastoneo\'clockthehallisatitsfullest，andthenoisebecomesabsolutelydeafening；fornowtheyaremarkinguptheratesofexchange，bywhichthemerchantsregulatetheirmonetarytransactions。
LeavingtheExchange，webentourstepstowardsthegreatharbour，andenteringasmallboat，cruisedinandaboutitinalldirections。Ihadresolvedtocountonlythethree-mastedships；
butsoongaveitup，fortheirnumberseemedoverwhelming，evenwithoutreckoningthesplendidsteamers，brigs，sloops，andcraft。
Inshort，Icouldonlygazeandwonder，foratleast900shipslaybeforeme。
