couldobtainnosatisfactoryinformationonthispoint。
Itisdifficulttoimagineanythingmorelaboriousthantowanderaboutinthiscavern。Astheroadhadsheweditselfattheentranceofthecavern，soitcontinuedthroughoutitswholeextent。Thepathconsistedentirelyofloosefragmentsoflavaheapedoneupontheother，overwhichwehadtoclamberwithgreatlabour。Noneofuscouldaffordtohelptheothers；eachonewasfullyoccupiedwithhimself。Therewasnotasinglespottobeseenonwhichwecouldhavestoodwithoutholdingfastatthesametimewithourhands。Weweresometimesobligedtoseatourselvesonastone，andsotoslidedown；atothers，totakehandsandpulloneanothertothetopofhighblocksofstone。
Wecametoseveralimmensebasins，orcraters，whichopenedaboveourheads，butwereinaccessible，thesidesbeingtoosteepforustoclimb。Thelightwhichenteredthroughtheseopeningswasscarcelyenoughtoilluminetheprincipalpath，muchlessthenumerousby-paths。
AtKalmannstungaIhadendeavouredtoprocuretorches，butwasobligedtoconsidermyselffortunateingettingafewtapers。ItisnecessarytoprovideoneselfwithtorchesatReikjavik。
Thepartsofthecavernbeneaththeopencraterswerestillcoveredwithaconsiderablequantityofsnow，bywhichourprogresswasrenderedverydangerous。Wefrequentlysunkin，andatothertimescaughtourfeetbetweenthestones，sothatwecouldscarcelymaintainourbalance。Intheby-pathssituatedneartheseopeningsanicyrindhadformeditself，whichwasnowcoveredwithwater。
Fartheron，theicehadmelted；butitwasgenerallyverydirty，asastratumofsandmixedwithwaterlaythereinplaceofthestones。
Thechiefpathalonewascoveredwithblocksoflava；inthesmallerpathsIfoundonlystrataofsandandsmallpiecesoflava。
Themagicalilluminationproducedbythesun\'sraysshiningthroughoneofthesecratersintothecavernproducedasplendideffect。
Thesunshoneperpendicularlythroughtheopening，spreadadazzlingradianceoverthesnow，anddiffusedapaledelicatelightaroundus。Theeffectofthispointofdazzlinglightwasthemoreremarkablefromitscontrastingstronglywiththetwodarkchasms，fromthefirstofwhichwehademergedtocontinueourjourneythroughtheobscurityofthesecond。
Thissubterraneanlabyrinthissaidtoextendindifferentdirectionsformanymiles。Weexploredaportionofthechiefpathandseveralby-paths，andafteramarchoftwohoursreturnedheartilytiredtotheupperworld。Wethenrestedaquarterofanhour，andafterwardsreturnedatagoodroundpacetoKalmannstunga。
UnfortunatelyIdonotpossesssufficientgeognosticknowledgetobeabletosetthiscaverndownasanextinctvolcano。Butintravellinginacountrywhereeveryhillandmountain，everythingaround，infact，consistsoflava，eventheuninitiatedinscienceseekstodiscovertheopeningswhencetheseimmensemasseshavepoured。Thestrangercuriouslyregardsthetopofeachmountain，thinkingeverywheretobeholdacrater，butbothhillanddaleappearsmoothandclosed。Withwhatjoythendoeshehailthethoughtofhavingdiscovered，inthiscavern，somethingtothrowlightuponthesourcesofthesethings!I，atleast，fanciedmyselfwalkingonthehearthofanextinctvolcano；forallIsaw，fromthemassesofstonepiledbeneathmyfeetandtheimmensebasinabovemyhead，werebothoflava。IfIamrightinmyconjecture，Idonotknow；Ionlyspeakaccordingtomynotionsandmyviews。
Iwasobligedtopassthisnightinacottage。Kalmannstungacontainsthreesuchcottages，butnochapel。LuckilyIfoundoneofthesehousessomewhatlargerandmorecleanlythanitsneighbours；
itcouldalmostcomeunderthedenominationofafarm。Theoccupants，too，hadbeenemployedduringmyridetothecavernincleansingthebestchamber，andpreparingit，asfaraspossible，formyreception。Theroominquestionwaselevenfeetlongbysevenbroad；thewindowwassosmallandsocoveredwithdirtthat，althoughthesunwasshininginitsfullglory，Icouldscarcelyseetowrite。Thewalls，andeventhefloor，wereboarded——agreatpieceofluxuryinacountrywherewoodissoscarce。Thefurnitureconsistedofabroadbedstead，twochestsofdrawers，andasmalltable。ChairsandbenchesareakindofterraincognitainthedwellingsoftheIcelandicpeasantry；besides，IdonotknowwheresucharticlescouldbestowedinaroomofsuchdimensionsasthatwhichIoccupied。
Myhostess，thewidowofawealthypeasant，introducedtomeherfourchildren，whowereveryhandsome，andveryneatlydressed。I
beggedthegoodmothertotellmethenamesoftheyoungones，sothatImightatleastknowafewIcelandicnames。Sheappearedmuchflatteredatmyrequest，andgavemethenamesasfollows:
Sigrudur，Gudrun，Ingebor，andLars。
Ishouldhavefelttolerablycomfortableinmypresentquarters，accustomedasIamtobearprivationsofallkindswithindifference，iftheywouldbuthaveleftmeinpeace。Butthereadermayfancymyhorrorwhenthewholepopulation，notonlyofthecottageitself，butalsooftheneighbouringdwellings，madetheirappearance，and，plantingthemselvespartlyinmychamberandpartlyatthedoor，heldmeinafarcloserstateofsiegethanevenatKrisuvik。Iwas，itappeared，quiteanovelphenomenonintheeyesofthesegoodpeople，andsotheycameoneandallandstaredatme；thewomenandchildrenwere，inparticular，mostunpleasantlyfamiliar；theyfeltmydress，andthelittleoneslaidtheirdirtylittlecountenancesinmylap。Addedtothis，theconfinedatmospherefromthenumberofpersonspresent，theirlamentablewantofcleanliness，andtheirfilthyhabitofspitting，&c。，allcombinedtoformamostdreadfulwhole。DuringthesevisitsIdidmorepenancethanbythelongestfasts；andfasting，too，wasanexerciseIseldomescaped，asIcouldtouchfewIcelandicdishes。
ThecookeryoftheIcelandicpeasantsiswhollyconfinedtothepreparationofdriedfish，withwhichtheyeatfermentedmilkthathasoftenbeenkeptformonths；onveryrareoccasionstheyhaveapreparationofbarley-meal，whichiseatenwithflatbreadbakedfromIcelandicmossgroundfine。
Icouldnotbutwonderatthefactthatmostofthesepeopleexpectedtofindmeacquaintedwithanumberofthingsgenerallystudiedonlybymen；theyseemedtohaveanotionthatinforeignpartswomenshouldbeaslearnedasmen。So，forinstance，thepriestsalwaysinquiredifIspokeLatin，andseemedmuchsurprisedonfindingthatIwasunacquaintedwiththelanguage。Thecommonpeoplerequestedmyadviceastothemodeoftreatingdiverscomplaints；andonce，inthecourseofoneofmysolitarywanderingsaboutReikjavik，onmyenteringacottage，theybroughtbeforemeabeingwhomIshouldscarcelyhaverecognisedasbelongingtothesamespeciesasmyself，sofearfullywashedisfiguredbytheeruptioncalled\"lepra。\"Notonlytheface，butthewholebodyalsowascoveredwithit；thepatientwasquiteemaciated，andsomepartsofhisbodywerecoveredwithsores。Forasurgeonthismighthavebeenaninterestingsight，butIturnedawayindisgust。
Butletusturnfromthispicture。Iwouldrathertelloftheangel\'sfaceIsawinKalmannstunga。Itwasagirl，tenortwelveyearsofage，beautifulandlovelybeyonddescription，sothatI
wishedIhadbeenapainter。HowgladlywouldIhavetakenhomewithmetomyownland，ifonlyoncanvass，thedelicateface，withitsroguishdimplesandspeakingeyes!Butperhapsitisbetterasitis；thepicturemightbysomeunluckychancehavefallenintothehandsofsometoo-susceptibleyouth，who，likeDonSylviodeRosalva，inWieland\'sComicalRomance，wouldimmediatelyhaveproceededtotravelthroughhalftheworldtofindtheoriginalofthisenchantingportrait。HisspiritofinquirywouldscarcelyhavecarriedhimtoIceland，assuchanapparitionwouldneverbesuspectedtoexistinsuchacountry，andthustheunhappyyouthwouldbedoomedtoendlesswandering。
June20th。
ThedistancefromKalmannstungatoThingvallaisfifty-twomiles，andthejourneyiscertainlyoneofthemostdrearyandfatiguingofallthatcanbemadeinIceland。Thetravellerpassesfromonedesertvalleyintoanother；heisalwayssurroundedbyhighmountainsandstillhigherglaciers，andwhereverheturnshiseyes，natureseemstorpidanddead。Afeelingofanxiousdiscomfortseizesuponthewanderer，hehastenswithredoubledspeedthroughthefar-stretcheddeserts，andeagerlyascendsthemountainspiledupbeforehim，inthehopethatbetterthingsliebeyond。Itisinvain；heonlyseesthesamesolitudes，thesamedeserts，thesamemountains。
Ontheelevatedplateauxseveralplaceswerestillcoveredwithsnow；thesewewereobligedtocross，thoughwecouldfrequentlyheartherushingofthewaterbeneathitssnowycovering。Wewerecompelledalsotopassovercoatingsoficespreadlightlyoverrivers，andpresentingthatbluecolourwhichisacertainsignofdanger。
Ourpoorhorsesweresometimesveryrestive；butitwasofnouse；
theywerebeatenwithoutmercyuntiltheycarriedusoverthedangerousplaces。Thepack-horsewasalwaysdrivenoninfrontwithmanyblows；ithadtoserveaspioneer，andtryiftheroadwaspracticable。Nextcamemyguide，andIbroughtuptherear。Ourpoorhorsesfrequentlysankuptotheirkneesinthesnow，andtwiceuptothesaddle-girths。ThiswasoneofthemostdangerousridesI
haveeverhad。IcouldnothelpcontinuallythinkingwhatIshoulddoifmyguideweretosinkinsodeeplythathecouldnotextricatehimself；mystrengthwouldnothavebeensufficienttorescuehim，andwhithershouldIturntoseekforhelp?Allarounduswasnothingbutadesertandsnow。Perhapsmylotmighthavebeentodieofhunger。Ishouldhavewanderedaboutseekingdwellingsandhumanbeings，andhaveentangledmyselfsocompletelyamongthesewastesthatIcouldneverhavefoundmyway。
WhenatadistanceIdescriedanewfieldofsnow(andunfortunatelywecameuponthembuttoofrequently)，Ifeltveryuncomfortable；
thosealonewhohavethemselvesbeeninasimilarsituationcanestimatethewholeextentofmyanxiety。
IfIhadbeentravellingincompanywithothers，thesefearswouldnothavedisturbedme；fortherereciprocalassistancecanberendered，andtheconsciousnessofthisfactseemsmateriallytodiminishthedanger。
Duringtheseasoninwhichthesnowceasestoformasecurecovering，thisroadisbutlittletravelled。Wesawnowhereatraceoffootsteps，eitherofmenoranimals；weweretheonlylivingbeingsinthisdreadfulregion。Icertainlyscoldedmyguideroundlyforbringingmebysucharoad。ButwhatdidIgainbythis?Itwouldhavebeenasdangeroustoturnbackastogoon。
Achangeintheweather，whichtillnowhadbeenratherfavourable，increasedthedifficultiesofthisjourney。AlreadywhenweleftKalmannstunga，theskybegantobeovercast，andthesunenliveneduswithitsraysonlyforafewminutesatatime。Onourreachingthehighermountainstheweatherbecameworse；forhereweencounteredcloudsandfog，whichwreakedtheirvengeanceuponus，andwhichonlycareeredbytomakeroomforothers。Anicystormfromtheneighbouringglacierswastheirconstantcompanion，andmademeshiversomuchthatIcouldscarcelykeepmysaddle。Wehadnowriddenabovethirteenhours。Therainpoureddownincessantly，andwewerehalfdeadwithcoldandwet；soIatlengthdeterminedtohaltforthenightatthefirstcottage:atlastwefoundonebetweentwoorthreemilesfromThingvalla。Ihadnowaroofabovemyhead；butbeyondthisIhadgainednothing。Thecottageconsistedofasingleroom，andwasalmostcompletelyfilledbyfourbroadbedsteads。Icountedsevenadultsandthreechildren，whohadalltobeaccommodatedinthesefourbeds。Inadditiontothis，thekvef，akindofcroup，prevailedthisspringtosuchanextentthatscarcelyanyoneescapedit。WhereverIwent，Ifoundthepeopleafflictedwiththiscomplaint；andherethiswasalsothecase；thenoiseofgroaningandcoughingonallsideswasquitedeplorable。
Thefloor，moreover，wasrevoltinglydirty。
Thegoodpeopleweresokindasimmediatelytoplaceoneoftheirbedsatmydisposal；butIwouldratherhavepassedthenightonthethresholdofthedoorthaninthisdisgustinghole。Ichoseformylodging-placethenarrowpassagewhichseparatedthekitchenfromtheroom；Ifoundthereacoupleofblocks，acrosswhichafewboardshadbeenlaid，andthisconstitutedthemilk-room:itmighthavebeenmoreproperlycalledthesmoke-room；forintheroofwereafewair-holes，throughwhichthesmokeescaped。Inthissmokeormilk-room——whicheveritmaybecalled——IpreparedtopassthenightasbestIcould。Mycloakbeingwetthrough，Ihadbeencompelledtohangitonasticktodry；andthusfoundmyselfunderthenecessityofborrowingamattressfromtheseunhealthypeople。I
laidmyselfdownboldly，andpretendedsleepiness，inordertodelivermyselffromthecuriosityofmyentertainers。Theyretiredtotheirroom，andsoIwasaloneandundisturbed。ButyetIcouldnotsleep；thecoldwind，blowinginuponmethroughtheair-holes，chilledandwettedasIalreadywas，keptmeawakeagainstmywill。
Ihadalsoanothermisfortunetoendure。AsoftenasIattemptedtosituprightonmyluxuriouscouch，myheadwouldreceiveasevereconcussion。Ihadforgottenthepoleswhicharefixedacrosseachoftheseantechambers，forthepurposeofhangingupfishtodry，&c。UnfortunatelyIcouldnotbearthisarrangementinminduntilafterIhadreceivedhalfadozensalutationsofthisdescription。
June21st。
Atlengththemorningsolongsighedforcame；therainhadindeedceased；butthecloudsstillhungaboutthemountains，andpromisedaspeedyfall；Ineverthelessresolvedrathertosubmitmyselftothefuryoftheelementsthantoremainlongerinmypresentquarters，andsoorderedthehorsestobesaddled。
Beforemydepartureroastlambandbutterwereofferedme。I
thankedmyentertainers；butrefrainedfromtastinganything，excusingmyselfonthepleaofnotfeelinghungry，whichwasinrealitythecase；forifIonlylookedatthedirtypeoplewhosurroundedme，myappetitevanishedinstantly。Solongasmystockofbreadandcheeselasted，Ikepttoit，andatenothingelse。
Takingleaveofmygoodhosts，wecontinuedourjourneytoReikjavik，bythesameroadonwhichIhadtravelledonmyjourneyhither。ThishadnotbeenmyoriginalplanonstartingfromReikjavik；IhadintendedtoproceedfromThingvalladirectlytotheGeyser，toHecla，&c。；butthehorseswerealreadyexhausted，andtheweathersodreadfullybad，withoutprospectofspeedyamendment，thatIpreferredreturningtoReikjavik，andwaitingforbettertimesinmypleasantlittleroomatthehouseofthegoodbaker。
Werodeonaswellaswecouldamidstceaselessstormsofwindandrain。Themostdisagreeablecircumstanceofallwasourbeingobligedtospendthehoursdevotedtorestintheopenair，underabynomeanscloudlesssky，asduringourwholeday\'sjourneywesawnotasinglehut，savethesolitaryoneinthelavadesert，whichservesasaresting-placefortravellersduringthewinter。Sowecontinuedourjourneyuntilwereachedascantymeadow。HereIhadmychoiceeithertowalkaboutfortwohours，ortositdownuponthewetgrass。Icouldfindnothingbettertodothantoturnmybackuponthewindandrain，toremainstandingononespot，tohavepatience，andforamusementtoobservethedirectioninwhichthecloudsscuddedby。AtthesametimeIdiscussedmyfrugalmeal，moreforwantofsomethingtodothanfromhunger；ifIfeltthirsty，Ihadonlytoturnroundandopenmymouth。
Iftherearenaturespeculiarlyfittedfortravelling，Iamfortunateinbeingblessedwithsuchanone。Norainorwindwaspowerfulenoughtogivemeevenacold。DuringthiswholeexcursionIhadtastednowarmornourishingfood；Ihadslepteverynightuponabenchorachest；hadriddennearly255milesinsixdays；
andhadbesidesscrambledaboutbravelyinthecavernofSurthellir；
and，inspiteofallthisprivationandfatigue，IarrivedatReikjavikingoodhealthandspirits。
Shortsummaryofthisjourney:
MilesFirstday，fromReikjaviktoThingvalla46
Secondday，fromThingvallatoReikholt51
Thirdday，fromReikholttothedifferentsprings，andbackagain19
Fourthday，fromReikholttoSurthellir，andbacktoKalmannstunga40
Fifthday，fromKalmannstungatoThingvalla51
Sixthday，fromThingvallatoReikjavik46
Total253
CHAPTERVI
Theweathersoonclearedup，andIcontinuedmyjourneytotheGeyserandtoMountHeclaonthe24thJune。Onthefirstday，whenwerodetoThingvalla，wepassednonewscenery，butsawinsteadanextremelybeautifulatmosphericphenomenon。
Asweapproachedthelake，somethinmist-cloudsloweredoveritandovertheearth，sothatitseemedasifitwouldrain。Oneportionofthefirmamentglowedwiththebrightestblue；whiletheotherpartwasobscuredbythickclouds，throughwhichthesunwasjustbreaking。Someofitsraysreachedthecloudsofmist，andilluminatedtheminawonderfullybeautifulmanner。Themostdelicateshadesofcolourseemedbreathed，asitwere，overthemlikeadissolvingrainbow，whoseglowingcolourswereintermingledandyetsinglyperceptible。Thisplayofcolourscontinuedforhalfanhour，thenfadedgraduallytillitvanishedentirely，andtheordinaryatmospheretookitsplace。ItwasoneofthemostbeautifulappearancesIhadeverwitnessed。
June25th。
TheroadsseparateaboutamilebehindthelittletownofThingvalla；theonetotheleftgoestoReikholt，theright-handoneleadstotheGeyser。Werodeforsometimealongtheshoresofthelake，andfoundattheendofthevalleyanawfulchasmintherock，similartotheoneofAlmanagiau，whichwehadpassedonsuchawretchedroad。
ThecontiguousvalleyboreagreatresemblancetothatofThingvalla；butthethirdonewasagainfearful。Lavacoveredit，andwasquiteovergrownwiththatwhitishmoss，whichhasabeautifulappearancewhenitonlycoversaportionofthelava，andwhenblackmassesriseaboveit，butwhichherepresentedamostmonotonousaspect。
Wealsopassedtwogrottoeswhichopenedatourfeet。Attheentranceofonestoodapillarofrocksupportinganimmenseslaboflava，whichformedanawe-inspiringportal。Ihadunfortunatelynotknownoftheexistenceofthesecaves，andwasconsequentlyunpreparedtovisitthem。Torches，atleast，wouldhavebeenrequisite。ButIsubsequentlyheardthattheywerenotatalldeep，andcontainednothingofinterest。
InthecourseofthedaywepassedthroughvalleyssuchasIhadseennowhereelseinIceland。Beautifulmeadow-lawns，perfectlylevel，coveredthecountryformiles。Theserichvalleyswere，ofcourse，tolerablywellpopulated；wefrequentlypassedthreeorfourcontiguouscottages，andsawhorses，cows，andsheepgrazingonthesefieldsinconsiderablenumbers。
Themountainswhichboundedthesevalleysontheleftseemedtomeveryremarkable；theywerepartlybrown，black，ordarkblue，liketheothers；butthebulkofwhichtheywerecomposedIconsideredtobefineloam-soillayers，ifImaytrustmyimperfectmineralogicalknowledge。Someofthesemountainsweretoppedbylargeisolatedlavarocks，realgiants；anditseemedinexplicabletomehowtheycouldstandonthesoftsoilbeneath。
Inoneofthesevalleyswepassedaconsiderablelake，onandaroundwhichrosecirclingcloudsofsteamproceedingfromhotsprings，butofnogreatsize。Butafterwehadalreadytravelledabouttwenty-
fivemiles，wecametothemostremarkableobjectIhadevermetwith；thiswasariverwithamostpeculiarbed。
Thisriver-bedisbroadandsomewhatsteep；itconsistsoflavastrata，andisdividedlengthwiseinthemiddlebyaclefteighteentotwentyfeetdeep，andfifteentoeighteenfeetbroad，towardswhichthebubblingandsurgingwatersrush，sothatthesoundisheardatsomedistance。Alittlewoodenbridge，whichstandsinthemiddleofthestream，andoverwhichthehighwavesconstantlyplay，leadsoverthechasm。Anyonenotawareofthefactcanhardlyexplainthisappearancetohimself，norunderstandthenoiseandsurgingofthestream。Thelittlebridgeinthecentrewouldbetakenfortheruinsofafallenbridge，andthechasmisnotseenfromtheshore，becausethefoamingwavesovertopit。Anindescribablefearwouldseizeuponthetravellerwhenhebeheldtheventurousguiderideintothestream，andwasobligedtofollowwithoutpityormercy。
ThepriestofThingvallahadpreparedmeforthescene，andhadadvisedmetoWALKoverthebridge；butasthewateratthisseasonstoodsohighthatthewavesfrombothsidesdashedtwofeetabovethebridge，Icouldnotdescendfrommyhorse，andwasobligedtorideacross。
Thewholepassagethroughthestreamissopeculiar，thatitmustbeseen，andcanscarcelybedescribed。Thewatergushesandplaysonallsideswithfearfulforce；itrushesintothechasmwithimpetuousviolence，formswaterfallsonbothsides，andbreaksitselfontheprojectingrocks。Notfarfromthebridgethecleftterminates；andthewholebreadthofthewatersfallsoverrocksthirtytofortyfeethigh。Thenearerweapproachedthecentre，thedeeper，moreviolent，andimpetuousgrewthestream，andthemoredeafeningwasthenoise。Thehorsesbecamerestlessandshy；andwhenwecametothebridge，theybegantotremble，theyreared，theyturnedtoallsidesbuttherightone，andrefusedtoobeythebridle。Withinfinitetroubleweatlastsucceededinbringingthemacrossthisdangerousplace。
Thevalleywhichistraversedbythispeculiarriverisnarrow，andquiteenclosedbylavamountainsandhills；theinanimate，silentnaturearoundisperfectlyadaptedtoimprintthissceneforeveronthetraveller\'smemory。
Thisremarkablestreamhadbeenthelastdifficulty；andnowweproceededquietlyandsafelythroughthebeautifulvalleystillweapproachedtheGeyser，whichaprojectinghillockenviouslyconcealedfrommyanxiouslycuriousgaze。Atlastthishillockwaspassed；andIsawtheGeyserwithitssurroundingscenery，withitsimmensesteampillars，andthecloudsandcloudletsrisingfromit。
ThehillwasabouttwomilesdistantfromtheGeyserandtheotherhotsprings。Theretheywere，boilingandbubblingallaround，andthroughthemidstlaytheroadtothebasin。Eightypacesfromitwehalted。
AndnowIstoodbeforethechiefobjectofmyjourney；Isawit，itwassonearme，andyetIdidnotventuretoapproachit。Butapeasantwhohadfollowedusfromoneoftheneighbouringcottages，andhadprobablyguessedmyanxietyandmyfear，tookmebythehandandconstitutedhimselfmycicerone。Hehadunfortunately，itbeingSunday，paidtoogreatadevotiontothebrandy-bottle，sothathestaggeredratherthanwalked，andIhesitatedtotrustmyselftotheguidanceofthisman，notknowingwhetherhehadreasonenoughlefttodistinguishhowfarwemightwithsafetyventure
Myguide，whohadaccompaniedmefromReikjavik，assuredmeindeedthatImighttrusthiminspiteofhisintoxication，andthathewouldhimselfgowithustotranslatethepeasant\'sIcelandicjargonintoDanish；butneverthelessIfollowedwithgreattrepidation。
HeledmetothemarginofthebasinofthegreatGeyser，whichliesonthetopofagentleelevationofabouttenfeet，andcontainstheouterandtheinnerbasins。Thediameteroftheouterbasinmaybeaboutthirtyfeet；thatoftheinneronesixtosevenfeet。Bothwerefilledtothebrim，thewaterwaspureascrystal，butboiledandbubbledonlyslightly。Wesoonleftthisspot；forwhenthebasinsarequitefilledwithwateritisverydangeroustoapproachthem，astheymayemptythemselvesanymomentbyaneruption。Wethereforewenttoinspecttheothersprings。
Myunsteadyguidepointedthoseoutwhichwemightunhesitatinglyapproach，andwarnedmefromtheothers。ThenwereturnedtothegreatGeyser，wherehegavemesomeprecautionaryrules，incaseofaninterveningeruption，andthenleftmetopreparesomeaccommodationformystay。Iwillbrieflyenumeratetheruleshegaveme。
\"Thepillarofwateralwaysrisesperpendicularly，andtheoverflowingwaterhasitschiefoutletsononeandthesameside。
Thewaterdoesindeedescapeontheotherside，butonlyininconsiderablequantities，andinshapelesslittleducts，whichonemayeasilyevade。Onthissideonemaythereforeapproachwithinfortypacesevenduringthemostviolenteruptions。Theeruptionannouncesitselfbyadullroaring；andassoonasthisisheard，thetravellermusthastilyretiretotheabove-nameddistance，astheeruptionalwaysfollowsveryquicklyafterthenoise。Thewater，however，doesnotrisehigheverytime，oftenonlyveryinconsiderably，sothat，toseeaveryfineexplosion，itisoftennecessarytostaysomedayshere。\"
TheFrenchscholar，M。P。Geimard，hasprovidedfortheaccommodationoftravellerswithatrulynobledisinterestedness。
HetraversedthewholeofIcelandsomeyearsagoandlefttwolargetentsbehindhim；onehere，andtheotherinThingvalla。Theonehereisparticularlyappropriate，astravellersarefrequentlyobliged，asstatedabove，towaitseveraldaysforafineeruption。
EverytravellercertainlyowesM。Geimardthewarmestthanksforthisconvenience。Apeasant，thesamewhoguidestravellerstothesprings，hasthechargeofit，andisboundtopitchitforanyoneforafeeofoneortwoflorins。
Whenmytentwasreadyitwasnearlyeleveno\'clock。Mycompanionsretired，andIremainedalone。
Itisusualtowatchthroughthenightinordernottomissaneruption。Now，althoughanalternatewatchingisnoveryarduousmatterforseveraltravellers，itbecameaveryhardtaskformealone，andanIcelandicpeasantcannotbetrusted；aneruptionofMountHeclawouldscarcelyarousehim。
Isatsometimesbeforeandsometimesinmytent，andlistenedwithanxiousexpectationforthecomingevents；atlast，aftermidnight——
thewitchinghour——Iheardsomehollowsounds，asifacannonwerebeingfiredatagreatdistance，anditsechoingsoundswerebornebythebreeze。Irushedfrommytentandexpectedsubterraneannoises，violentcrackingandtremblingoftheearth，accordingtothedescriptionsIhadread。Icouldscarcelyrepressaslightsensationoffear。Tobealoneatmidnightinsuchasceneiscertainlynojoke。
Manyofmyfriendsmayremembermytellingthem，beforemydeparture，thatIexpectedIshouldneedthemostcourageonmyIcelandicjourneyduringthenightsattheGeyser。
Thesehollowsoundswererepeated，atveryshortintervals，thirteentimes；andeachtimethebasinoverflowedandejectedaconsiderablequantityofwater。Thesoundsdidnotseemtoproceedfromsubterraneanragings，butfromtheviolentagitationofthewaters。
Inaminuteandahalfallwasover；thewaternolongeroverflowed，thecaldronandbasinremainedfilled，andIreturnedtomytentdisappointedineveryway。Thisphenomenonwasrepeatedeverytwohoursandahalf，or，atthelatest，everythreehoursandahalf。
Isawandheardnothingelseallnight，thenextday，orthesecondnight。Iwaitedinvainforaneruption。
WhenIhadaccustomedmyselftothesetemporaryeffusionsofmyneighbour，Ieitherindulgedinagentleslumberintheintermediatetime，orIvisitedtheotherspringsandexplored。Iwishedtodiscovertheboilingvapourandthecolouredspringswhichmanytravellersasserttheyhaveseenhere。
Allthehot-springsareunitedwithacircumferenceof800to900
paces:severalofthemareveryremarkable，butthemajorityinsignificant。
Theyaresituatedintheangleofanimmensevalleyatthefootofahill，behindwhichextendsachainofmountains。Thevalleyisentirelycoveredwithgrass，andthevegetationonlydecreasesalittleintheimmediatevicinityofthesprings。Cottagesarebuilteverywhereintheneighbourhood；thenearesttothespringsareonlyabout700to800pacesdistant。
Icountedtwelvelargebasinswithboilingandgushingsprings；ofsmalleronesthereweremanymore。
AmongthegushingspringstheStrokkeristhemostremarkable。Itboilsandbubbleswithmostextraordinaryviolenceatadepthofabouttwentyfeet，shootsupsuddenly，andprojectsitswatersintotheair。Itseruptionssometimeslasthalfanhour，andthecolumnoccasionallyascendstoaheightoffortyfeet。Iwitnessedseveralofitseruptions；butunfortunatelynotoneofthelargest。ThehighestIsawcouldnothavebeenabovethirtyfeet，anddidnotlastmorethanaquarterofanhour。TheStrokkeristheonlyspring，excepttheGeyser，whichhastobeapproachedwithgreatcaution。Theeruptionssometimessucceedeachotherquickly，andsometimesceaseforafewhours，andarenotprecededbyanysign。
Anotherspringspoutsconstantly，butneverhigherthanthreetofourfeet。Athirdoneliesaboutfourorfivefeetdeep，inaratherbroadbasin，andproducesonlyafewlittlebubbles。Butthiscalmnessisdeceptive:itseldomlastsmorethanhalfaminute，rarelytwoorthreeminutes；thenthespringbeginstobubble，toboil，andtowaveandspouttoaheightoftwoorthreefeet；without，however，reachingthelevelofthebasin。InsomespringsIheardboilingandfoaminglikeagentlebellowing；butsawnowater，sometimesnotevensteam，rising。
TwoofthemostremarkablespringswhichcanperhapsbefoundintheworldaresituatedimmediatelyabovetheGeyser，intwoopenings，whichareseparatedbyawallofrockscarcelyafootwide。Thispartitiondoesnotriseabovethesurfaceofthesoil，butdescendsintotheearth；thewaterboilsslowly，andhasanequable，moderatedischarge。Thebeautyofthesespringsconsistsintheirremarkabletransparency。Allthevariedformsandcaves，theprojectingpeaks，andedgesofrock，arevisiblefardown，untiltheeyeislostinthedepthsofdarkness。Butthegreatestbeautyofthespringisthesplendidcolouringproceedingfromtherock；itisofthetenderest，mosttransparent，paleblueandgreen，andresemblesthereflectionofaBengalflame。Butwhatismoststrangeis，thatthisplayofcolourproceedsfromtherock，andonlyextendseighttoteninchesfromit，whiletheotherwateriscolourlessascommonwater，onlymoretransparent，andpurer。
Icouldnotbelieveitatfirst，andthoughtitmustbeoccasionedbythesun；Ithereforevisitedthespringsatdifferenttimes，sometimeswhenthesunshonebrightly，sometimeswhenitwasobscuredbyclouds，onceevenafteritssetting；butthecolouringalwaysremainedthesame。
Onemayfearlesslyapproachthebrinkofthesesprings。Theplatformwhichprojectsdirectlyfromthem，andunderwhichonecanseeinalldirections，isindeedonlyathinledgeofrock，butstrongenoughtopreventanyaccident。Thebeautyconsists，asI
havesaid，inthemagicalillumination，andinthetransparency，bywhichallthecavesandgrottoestothegreatestdepthsbecomevisibletotheeye。InvoluntarilyIthoughtofSchiller\'sDiver。
{40}Iseemedtoseethegoblethangonthepeaksandjagsoftherock；IcouldfancyIsawthemonstersrisefromthebottom。Itmustbeapeculiarpleasuretoreadthissplendidpoeminsuchanappropriatespot。
IfoundscarcelyanybasinsofBrodemorcolouredwaters。TheonlyoneofthekindwhichIsawwasasmallbasin，inwhichabrownish-
redsubstance，ratherdenserthanwater，wasboiling。Anothersmallerspring，withdirtybrownwater，Ishouldhavequiteoverlooked，ifIhadnotsoindustriouslysearchedforthesecuriosities。
Atlast，afterlongwaiting，ontheseconddayofmystay，onthe27thJune，athalf-pasteightinthemorning，IwasdestinedtoseeaneruptionoftheGeyserinitsgreatestperfection。Thepeasant，whocamedailyinthemorningandintheeveningtoinquirewhetherIhadalreadyseenaneruption，waswithmewhenthehollowsoundswhichprecedeitwereagainheard。Wehastenedout，andIagaindespairedofseeinganything；thewateronlyoverflowedasusual，andthesoundwasalreadyceasing。Butallatonce，whenthelastsoundshadscarcelydiedaway，theexplosionbegan。WordsfailmewhenItrytodescribeit:suchamagnificentandoverpoweringsightcanonlybeseenonceinalifetime。
Allmyexpectationsandsuppositionswerefarsurpassed。Thewaterspoutedupwardswithindescribableforceandbulk；onepillarrosehigherthantheother；eachseemedtoemulatetheother。WhenIhadinsomemeasurerecoveredfromthesurprise，andregainedcomposure，Ilookedatthetent。Howlittle，howdwarfishitseemedascomparedtotheheightofthesepillarsofwater!Andyetitwasabouttwentyfeethigh。Itdid，indeed，lietenfeetlowerthanthebasinoftheGeyser；butiftenthadbeenraisedabovetent，thesetenfeetcouldonlybedeductedonce，andIcalculated，thoughmycalculationmaynotbecorrect，thatonewouldneedtopileupfiveorsixtentstohavetheheightofoneofthepillars。Withoutexaggeration，Ithinkthelargestspoutroseaboveonehundredfeethigh，andwasthreetofourfeetindiameter。
FortunatelyIhadlookedatmywatchatthebeginningofthehollowsounds，theforerunnersoftheeruption，forduringitscontinuanceIshouldprobablyhaveforgottentodoso。Thewholelastedfourminutes，ofwhichthegreaterhalfmusthavebeentakenupbytheeruptionitself。
Whenthiswonderfulscenewasover，thepeasantaccompaniedmetothebasin。Wecouldnowapproachitandtheboilerwithoutdanger，andexaminebothatleisure。Therewasnownothingtofear；thewaterhadentirelydisappearedfromtheouterbasin。Weentereditandapproachedtheinnerbasin，inwhichthewaterhadsunksevenoreightfeet，whereitboiledandbubbledfiercely。
WithahammerIbrokesomecrustoutoftheouteraswellasoutoftheinnerbasin；theformerwaswhite，thelatterbrown。Ialsotastedthewater；ithadnotanunpleasanttaste，andcanonlycontainaninconsiderableproportionofsulphur，asthesteamdoesnotevensmellofit。
IwenttothebasinoftheGeysereveryhalfhourtoobservehowmuchtimewasrequiredtofillitagain。AfteranhourIcouldstilldescendintotheouterbasin；buthalfanhourlatertheinnerbasinwasalreadyfull，andcommencedtooverflow。Aslongasthewateronlyfilledtheinnerbasinitboiledviolently；butthehigheritroseintheouterone，thelessitboiled，andnearlyceasedwhenthebasinwasfilled:itonlythrewlittlebubbleshereandthere。
Afteralapseoftwohours——itwasjustnoon——thebasinwasfillednearlytothebrim；andwhileIstoodbesideitthewaterbeganagaintobubbleviolently，andtoemitthehollowsounds。Ihadscarcelytimetoretreat，forthepillarsofwaterroseimmediately。
Thistimetheyspoutedduringthenoise，andweremorebulkythanthoseofthefirstexplosion，whichmightproceedfromtheirnotrisingsohigh，andthereforeremainingmorecompact。Theirheightmayhavebeenfromfortytofiftyfeet。Thebasinsthistimeremainednearlyasfullaftertheeruptionasbefore。
IhadnowseentwoeruptionsoftheGeyser，andfeltamplycompensatedformyperseveringpatienceandwatchfulness。ButIwasdestinedtobemorefortunate，andtoexperienceitsexplosionsinalltheirvariety。Thespringspoutedagainatseveno\'clockintheevening，ascendedhigherthanatnoon，andbroughtupsomestones，whichlookedlikeblackspotsandpointsinthewhitefrothywater-
column。Andduringthethirdnightitpresenteditselfunderanotherphase:thewaterroseindreadful，quickly-succeedingwaves，withoutthrowingrays；thebasinoverflowedviolently，andgeneratedsuchamassofsteamasisrarelyseen。ThewindaccidentallyblewittothespotwhereIstood，anditenvelopedmesocloselythatIcouldscarcelyseeafewfeetoff。ButI
perceivedneithersmellnoroppression，merelyaslightdegreeofwarmth。
June28th。
AsIhadnowseentheGeyserplaysooftenandsobeautifully，I
orderedmyhorsesfornineo\'clockthismorning，tocontinuemyjourney。Imadethemorehastetoleave，asaDutchprincewasexpected，whohadlatelyarrivedatReikjavik，withalargeretinue，inasplendidman-of-war。
Ihadthelucktoseeanothereruptionbeforemydepartureathalf-
pasteighto\'clock；andthisonewasnearlyasbeautifulasthefirst。Thistimealsotheouterbasinwasentirelyemptied，andtheinneronetoadepthofsixorsevenfeet。Icouldthereforeagaindescendintothebasin，andbidfarewelltotheGeyserattheverybrinkofthecrater，which，ofcourse，Idid。
IhadnowbeenthreenightsandtwodaysintheimmediatevicinityoftheGeyser，andhadwitnessedfiveeruptions，ofwhichtwowereofthemostconsiderablethathadeverbeenknown。ButIcanassuremyreadersthatIdidnotfindeverythingasIhadanticipateditaccordingtothedescriptionsandaccountsIhadread。IneverheardagreaternoisethanIhavementioned，andneverfeltanytremblingoftheearth，althoughIpaidthegreatestattentiontoeverylittlecircumstance，andheldmyheadtothegroundduringaneruption。
Itissingularhowmanypeoplerepeateverythingtheyhearfromothers——howsome，withanover-excitedimagination，seemtosee，hear，andfeelthingswhichdonotexist；andhowothers，again，tellthemostunblushingfalsehoods。ImetanexampleofthisinReikjavik，inthehouseoftheapothecaryMoller，inthepersonofanofficerofaFrenchfrigate，whoassertedthathehad\"riddentotheveryedgeofthecraterofMountVesuvius。\"HeprobablydidnotanticipatemeetinganyoneinReikjavikwhohadalsobeentothecraterofVesuvius。Nothingirritatesmesomuchassuchfalsehoodsandboastings；andIcouldnotthereforeresistaskinghimhowhehadmanagedthatfeat。ItoldhimthatIhadbeenthere，andfeareddangeraslittleashecoulddo；butthatIhadbeencompelledtodescendfrommydonkeynearthetopofthemountain，andletmyfeetcarrymetheremainderofthejourney。Heseemedratherembarrassed，andpretendedhehadmeanttosayNEARLYtothecrater；
butIfeelconvincedhewilltellthisstorysooftenthathewillatlastbelieveithimself。
IhopeIdonotwearymyreadersbydwellingsolongonthesubjectoftheGeyser。Iwillnowvarythesubjectbyrelatingafewcircumstancesthatcameundermynotice，which，thoughtriflinginthemselves，wereyetverysignificant。Themostunimportantfactsofanalmostunknowncountryareofteninteresting，andareoftenmostconclusiveevidencesofthegeneralcharacterofthenation。
Ihavealreadyspokenofmyintoxicatedguide。Itisyetinexplicabletomehowhecouldhaveconductedmesosafelyinsuchasemi-consciousstate；andhadhenotbeentheonlyone，Ishouldcertainlynothavetrustedmyselftohisguidance。
OfthewantofcleanlinessoftheIcelanders，noonewhohasnotwitnesseditcanhaveanyidea；andifIattemptedtodescribesomeoftheirnauseoushabits，Imightfillvolumes。Theyseemtohavenofeelingofpropriety，andImust，inthisrespect，rankthemasfarinferiortotheBedouinsandArabs——eventotheGreenlanders。I
can，therefore，notconceivehowthisnationcouldoncehavebeendistinguishedforwealth，bravery，andcivilisation。
OnthisdayIproceededonmyjourneyabouttwenty-eightmilesfarthertoSkalholt。
Forthefirstfivemilesweretracedourformerroad；thenweturnedtotheleftandtraversedthebeautifullongvalleyinwhichtheGeyserissituated。Formanymileswecouldseeitscloudsofsteamrisingtothesky。Theroadsweretolerableonlywhentheypassedalongthesidesofhillsandmountains；intheplainstheyweregenerallymarshyandfullofwater。Wesometimeslostalltracesofaroad，andonlypushedontowardsthequarterinwhichtheplaceofourdestinationwassituated；andfearedwithaltosinkateverypaceintothesoftandunresistingsoil。
IfoundtheindolenceoftheIcelandicpeasantsquiteunpardonable。
Allthevalleysthroughwhichwepassedwerelargemorassesrichlyovergrownwithgrass。Ifthesingleparisheswouldunitetodigtrenchesanddrainthesoil，theywouldhavethefinestmeadows。
Thisisprovednearthemanyprecipiceswherethewaterhasanoutlet；inthesespotsthegrassgrowsmostluxuriantly，anddaisiesandherbsflourishthere，andevenwildclover。Afewcottagesaregenerallycongregatedontheseoases。
BeforearrivingatthevillageofThorfastadir，wealreadyperceivedHeclasurroundedbythebeautifuljokuls。
IarrivedatThorfastadirwhileafuneralwasgoingon。AsI
enteredthechurchthemournerswerebusilyseekingcourageandconsolationinthebrandy-bottle。Thelawcommands，indeed，thatthisbenotdoneinthechurch；butifeveryoneobeyedthelaw，whatneedwouldtherebeofjudges?TheIcelandersmustthinkso，elsetheywoulddiscontinuetheunseemlypractice。
Whenthepriestcame，apsalmoraprayer——Icouldnottellwhichitwas，beingIcelandic——wassoearnestlyshoutedbypeasantsundertheleadershipofthepriestandelders，thatthegoodpeoplewaxedquitewarmandoutofbreath。Thenthepriestplacedhimselfbeforethecoffin，which，forwantofroom，hadbeenlaidonthebacksoftheseats，andwithaveryloudvoicereadaprayerwhichlastedmorethanhalfanhour。Withthistheceremonywithinthechurchwasconcluded，andthecoffinwascarriedroundthechurchtothegrave，followedbythepriestandtherestofthecompany。ThisgravewasdeeperthananyIhadeverseen。Whenthecoffinhadbeenlowered，thepriestthrewthreehandfulsofearthuponit，butnoneofthemournersfollowedhisexample。AmongtheearthwhichhadbeendugoutofthegraveInoticedfourskulls，severalhumanbones，andaboardofaformercoffin。Thesewereallthrowninagainuponthecoffin，andthegravefilledinpresenceofthepriestandthepeople。Onemantrodthesoilfirm，thenalittlemoundwasmadeandcoveredwithgrass-plotswhichwerelyingready。
Thewholebusinesswascompletedwithmiraculousspeed。
ThelittletownofSkalholt，mystationthisnight，wasonceascelebratedinreligiousmattersasThingvallahadbeenpoliticallyfamous。Here，soonaftertheintroductionofChristianity，thefirstbishopricwasfoundedin1098，andthechurchissaidtohavebeenoneofthelargestandrichest。NowSkalholtisamiserableplace，andconsistsofthreeorfourcottages，andawretchedwoodenchurch，whichmayperhapscontainahundredpersons；ithasnotevenitsownpriest，butbelongstoThorfastadir。
Myfirstbusinessonarrivingwastoinspecttheyetremainingrelicsofpastages。FirstIwasshewnanoil-picturewhichhangsinthechurch，andissaidtorepresentthefirstbishopofSkalholt，Thorlakur，whowasworshippedalmostasasaintforhisstrictandpiouslife。
Afterthis，preparationsweremadetoclearawaythestepsofthealtarandseveralboardsoftheflooring。Istoodexpectantlylookingon，thinkingthatIshouldnowhavetodescendintoavaulttoinspecttheembalmedbodyofthebishop。Imustconfessthisprospectwasnotthemostagreeable，whenIthoughtoftheapproachingnightwhichIshouldhavetospendinthischurch，perhapsimmediatelyoverthegraveoftheoldskeleton。Ihadbesidesalreadyhadtoomuchtodowiththedeadforoneday，andcouldnotridmyselfoftheunpleasantgrave-odourwhichIhadimbibedinThorfastadir，andwhichseemedtoclingtomydressandmynose。{41}Iwasthereforenotalittlepleasedwhen，insteadofthedreadedvaultandmummy，Iwasonlyshewnamarbleslab，onwhichwereinscribedtheusualnotificationsofthebirth，death，&c。ofthisgreatbishop。Besidesthis，Isawanoldembroideredstoleandasimplegoldenchalice，bothofwhicharesaidtoberelicsoftheageofThorlakar。
Thenweascendedintotheso-calledstore-room，whichisonlyseparatedfromthelowerportionofthechurchbyafewboards，andwhichextendstothealtar。Herearekeptthebellsandtheorgan，ifthechurchpossessesone，theprovisions，andavarietyoftools。
Theyopenedanimmensechestformethere，whichseemedtocontainonlylargepiecesoftallowmadeintheformofcheeses；butunderthistallowIfoundthelibrary，whereIdiscoveredaninterestingtreasure。Thiswas，besidesseveralveryoldbooksintheIcelandictongue，threethickfoliovolumes，whichIcouldreadveryeasily；
theywereGerman，andcontainedLuther\'sdoctrines，letters，epistles，&c。
Ihadnowseenalltherewastobeseen，andbegantosatisfymyphysicalwantsbycallingforsomehotwatertomakecoffee，&c。Asusual，alltheinhabitantsoftheplacerangedthemselvesinandbeforethechurch，probablytoincreasetheirknowledgeofthehumanracebystudyingmypeculiarities。Isoon，however，closedthedoor，andpreparedasplendidcouchformyself。Atmyfirstentranceintothechurch，Ihadnoticedalongbox，quitefilledwithsheep\'swool。Ithrewmyrugsoverthis，andsleptascomfortablyasinthesoftestbed。InthemorningIcarefullyteasedthewoolupagain，andnoonecouldthenhaveimaginedwhereIhadpassedthenight。
