第1章

MONDAY-Itwas，ifIrememberrightly，fiveo\'clockwhenwewereallsignalledtobepresentattheFerryDepotoftherailroad。AnemigrantshiphadarrivedatNewYorkontheSaturdaynight，anotherontheSundaymorning，ourownonSundayafternoon，afourthearlyonMonday；andasthereisnoemigranttrainonSundayagreatpartofthepassengersfromthesefourshipswasconcentratedonthetrainbywhichIwastotravel。Therewasababelofbewilderedmen，women，andchildren。Thewretchedlittlebooking-office，andthebaggage-room，whichwasnotmuchlarger，werecrowdedthickwithemigrants，andwereheavyandrankwiththeatmosphereofdrippingclothes。Opencartsfullofbeddingstoodbythehalf-hourintherain。Theofficialsloadedeachotherwithrecriminations。Abearded，mildewedlittleman，whomItaketohavebeenanemigrantagent，wasallovertheplace，hismouthfullofbrimstone，blusteringandinterfering。Itwasplainthatthewholesystem，ifsystemtherewas，hadutterlybrokendownunderthestrainofsomanypassengers。 Myownticketwasgivenmeatonce，andanoldishman，whopreservedhisheadinthemidstofthisturmoil，gotmybaggageregistered，andcounselledmetostayquietlywhereIwastillheshouldgivemethewordtomove。Ihadtakenalongwithmeasmallvalise，aknapsack，whichIcarriedonmyshoulders，andinthebagofmyrailwayrugthewholeofBANCROFT\'SHISTORYOFTHEUNITED STATES，insixfatvolumes。ItwasasmuchasIcouldcarrywithconvenienceevenforshortdistances，butitinsuredmeplentyofclothing，andthevalisewasatthatmoment，andoftenafter，usefulforastool。IamsureIsatforanhourinthebaggage- room，andwretchedenoughitwas；yet，whenatlastthewordwaspassedtomeandIpickedupmybundlesandgotunderway，itwasonlytoexchangediscomfortfordownrightmiseryanddanger。 IfollowedtheportersintoalongshedreachingdownhillfromWestStreettotheriver。Itwasdark，thewindblewcleanthroughitfromendtoend；andhereIfoundagreatblockofpassengersandbaggage，hundredsofoneandtonsoftheother。IfeelIshallhaveadifficultytomakemyselfbelieved；andcertainlythescenemusthavebeenexceptional，foritwastoodangerousfordailyrepetition。Itwasatightjam；therewasnofairwaythroughthemingledmassofbruteandlivingobstruction。Intotheupperskirtsofthecrowdporters，infuriatedbyhurryandoverwork，clovetheirwaywithshouts。Imaysaythatwestoodlikesheep，andthattheporterschargedamonguslikesomanymaddenedsheep- dogs；andIbelievethesemenwerenolongeranswerablefortheiracts。Itmatterednotwhattheywerecarrying，theydrovestraightintothepress，andwhentheycouldgetnofarther，blindlydischargedtheirbarrowful。Withmyownhand，forinstance，I savedthelifeofachildasitsatuponitsmother\'sknee，shesittingonabox；andsinceIheardofnoaccident，Imustsupposethatthereweremanysimilarinterpositionsinthecourseoftheevening。ItwillgivesomeideaofthestateofmindtowhichwewerereducedifItellyouthatneithertheporternorthemotherofthechildpaidtheleastattentiontomyact。ItwasnottillsometimeafterthatIunderstoodwhatIhaddonemyself，fortowardoffheavyboxesseemedatthemomentanaturalincidentofhumanlife。Cold，wet，clamour，deadoppositiontoprogress，suchasoneencountersinanevildream，hadutterlydauntedthespirits。Wehadacceptedthispurgatoryasachildacceptstheconditionsoftheworld。Formypart，Ishiveredalittle，andmybackachedwearily；butIbelieveIhadneitherahopenorafear，andalltheactivitiesofmynaturehadbecometributarytoonemassivesensationofdiscomfort。 Atlength，andafterhowlonganintervalIhesitatetoguess，thecrowdbegantomove，heavilystrainingthroughitself。Aboutthesametimesomelampswerelighted，andthrewasuddenflareovertheshed。WewerebeingfilteredoutintotheriverboatforJerseyCity。Youmayimaginehowslowlythisfilteringproceeded，throughthedense，chokingcrush，everyoneoverladenwithpackagesorchildren，andyetunderthenecessityoffishingouthisticketbytheway；butitendedatlengthforme，andIfoundmyselfondeckunderaflimsyawningandwithatrifleofelbow-roomtostretchandbreathein。Thiswasonthestarboard；forthebulkoftheemigrantsstuckhopelesslyontheportside，bywhichwehadentered。Invaintheseamenshoutedtothemtomoveon，andthreatenedthemwithshipwreck。 Thesepoorpeoplewereunderaspellofstupor，anddidnotstirafoot。Itrainedasheavilyasever，butthewindnowcameinsuddenclapsandcapfuls，notwithoutdangertoaboatsobadlyballastedasours；andwecreptovertheriverinthedarkness，trailingonepaddleinthewaterlikeawoundedduck，andpassedeverandagainbyhuge，illuminatedsteamersrunningmanyknots，andheraldingtheirapproachbystrainsofmusic。Thecontrastbetweenthesepleasureembarkationsandourowngrimvessel，withherlisttoportandherfreightofwetandsilentemigrants，wasofthatglaringdescriptionwhichwecounttooobviousforthepurposesofart。 ThelandingatJerseyCitywasdoneinastampede。Ihadafixedsenseofcalamity，andtojudgebyconduct，thesamepersuasionwascommontousall。Apanicselfishness，likethatproducedbyfear，presidedoverthedisorderofourlanding。Peoplepushed，andelbowed，andran，theirfamiliesfollowinghowtheycould。 Childrenfell，andwerepickeduptoberewardedbyablow。Onechild，whohadlostherparents，screamedsteadilyandwithincreasingshrillness，asthoughvergingtowardsafit；anofficialkeptherbyhim，butnooneelseseemedsomuchastoremarkherdistress；andIamashamedtosaythatIranamongtherest。IwassowearythatIhadtwicetomakeahaltandsetdownmybundlesinthehundredyardsorsobetweenthepierandtherailwaystation，sothatIwasquitewetbythetimethatIgotundercover。Therewasnowaiting-room，norefreshmentroom；thecarswerelocked；andforatleastanotherhour，orsoitseemed，wehadtocampuponthedraughty，gaslitplatform。Isatonmyvalise，toocrushedtoobservemyneighbours；butastheywereallcold，andwet，andweary，anddrivenstupidlycrazybythemismanagementtowhichwehadbeensubjected，Ibelievetheycanhavebeennohappierthanmyself。Iboughthalf-a-dozenorangesfromaboy，fororangesandnutsweretheonlyrefectiontobehad。Asonlytwoofthemhadevenapretenceofjuice，Ithrewtheotherfourunderthecars，andbeheld，asinadream，grownpeopleandchildrengropingonthetrackaftermyleavings。 Atlastwewereadmittedintothecars，utterlydejected，andfarfromdry。Formyownpart，Igotoutaclothes-brush，andbrushedmytrousersashardasIcouldtillIhaddriedthemandwarmedmybloodintothebargain；butnooneelse，exceptmynextneighbourtowhomIlentthebrush，appearedtotaketheleastprecaution。 Astheywere，theycomposedthemselvestosleep。IhadseenthelightsofPhiladelphia，andbeentwiceorderedtochangecarriagesandtwicecountermanded，beforeIallowedmyselftofollowtheirexample。 TUESDAY-WhenIawoke，itwasalreadyday；thetrainwasstandingidle；Iwasinthelastcarriage，and，seeingsomeothersstrollingtoandfroaboutthelines，Iopenedthedoorandsteppedforth，asfromacaravanbythewayside。Wewerenearnostation，noreven，asfarasIcouldsee，withinreachofanysignal。Agreen，open，undulatingcountrystretchedawayuponallsides。LocusttreesandasinglefieldofIndiancorngaveitaforeigngraceandinterest； butthecontoursofthelandweresoftandEnglish。ItwasnotquiteEngland，neitherwasitquiteFrance；yetlikeenougheithertoseemnaturalinmyeyes。Anditwasinthesky，andnotupontheearth，thatIwassurprisedtofindachange。Explainithowyoumay，andformypartIcannotexplainitatall，thesunriseswithadifferentsplendourinAmericaandEurope。Thereismorecleargoldandscarletinouroldcountrymornings；morepurple，brown，andsmokyorangeinthoseofthenew。Itmaybefromhabit，buttomethecomingofdayislessfreshandinspiritinginthelatter；ithasaduskierglory，andmorenearlyresemblessunset； itseemstofitsomesubsequential，eveningepochoftheworld，asthoughAmericawereinfact，andnotmerelyinfancy，fartherfromtheorientofAuroraandthespringsofday。Ithoughtsothen，bytherailroadsideinPennsylvania，andIhavethoughtsoadozentimessinceinfardistantpartsofthecontinent。Ifitbeanillusionitisoneverydeeplyrooted，andinwhichmyeyesightisaccomplice。 Soonafteratrainwhiskedby，announcingandaccompanyingitspassagebytheswiftbeatingofasortofchapelbellupontheengine；andasitwasforthiswehadbeenwaiting，weweresummonedbythecryof\"Allaboard!\"andwentonagainuponourway。Thewholeline，itappeared，wastopsy-turvy；anaccidentatmidnighthavingthrownallthetraffichoursintoarrear。Wepaidforthisintheflesh，forwehadnomealsallthatday。Fruitwecouldbuyuponthecars；andnowandthenwehadafewminutesatsomestationwithameagreshowofrollsandsandwichesforsale； butweweresomanyandsoravenousthat，thoughItriedateveryopportunity，thecoffeewasalwaysexhaustedbeforeIcouldelbowmywaytothecounter。 OurAmericansunrisehadusheredinanoblesummer\'sday。Therewasnotacloud；thesunshinewasbaking；yetinthewoodyrivervalleysamongwhichwewoundourway，theatmospherepreservedasparklingfreshnesstilllateintheafternoon。Ithadaninlandsweetnessandvarietytoonenewlyfromthesea；itsmeltofwoods，rivers，andthedelvedearth。These，thoughinsofaracountry，wereairsfromhome。Istoodontheplatformbythehour；andasI saw，oneafteranother，pleasantvillages，cartsuponthehighwayandfishersbythestream，andheardcockcrowsandcheeryvoicesinthedistance，andbeheldthesun，nolongershiningblanklyontheplainsofocean，butstrikingamongshapelyhillsandhislightdispersedandcolouredbyathousandaccidentsofformandsurface，Ibegantoexultwithmyselfuponthisriseinlifelikeamanwhohadcomeintoarichestate。AndwhenIhadaskedthenameofariverfromthebrakesman，andheardthatitwascalledtheSusquehanna，thebeautyofthenameseemedtobepartandparcelofthebeautyoftheland。AswhenAdamwithdivinefitnessnamedthecreatures，sothiswordSusquehannawasatonceacceptedbythefancy。Thatwasthename，asnoothercouldbe，forthatshiningriveranddesirablevalley。 Nonecancareforliteratureinitselfwhodonottakeaspecialpleasureinthesoundofnames；andthereisnopartoftheworldwherenomenclatureissorich，poetical，humorous，andpicturesqueastheUnitedStatesofAmerica。Alltimes，races，andlanguageshavebroughttheircontribution。PekinisinthesameStatewithEuclid，withBellefontaine，andwithSandusky。Chelsea，withitsLondonassociationsofredbrick，SloaneSquare，andtheKing\'sRoad，isownsuburbtostatelyandprimevalMemphis；theretheyhavetheirseat，translatednamesofcities，wheretheMississippirunsbyTennesseeandArkansas；andboth，whileIwascrossingthecontinent，lay，watchedbyarmedmen，inthehorrorandisolationofaplague。Old，redManhattanlies，likeanIndianarrowheadunderasteamfactory，belowanglifiedNewYork。ThenamesoftheStatesandTerritoriesthemselvesformachorusofsweetandmostromanticvocables:Delaware，Ohio，Indiana，Florida，Dakota，Iowa，Wyoming，Minnesota，andtheCarolinas；therearefewpoemswithanoblermusicfortheear:asongful，tunefulland；andifthenewHomershallarisefromtheWesterncontinent，hisversewillbeenriched，hispagessingspontaneously，withthenamesofstatesandcitiesthatwouldstrikethefancyinabusinesscircular。 Lateintheeveningwewerelandedinawaiting-roomatPittsburg。 IhadnowundermychargeayoungandsprightlyDutchwidowwithherchildren；theseIwastowatchoverprovidentiallyforacertaindistancefartherontheway；butasIfoundshewasfurnishedwithabasketofeatables，Ileftherinthewaiting-roomtoseekadinnerformyself。Imentionthismeal，notonlybecauseitwasthefirstofwhichIhadpartakenforaboutthirtyhours，butbecauseitwasthemeansofmyfirstintroductiontoacolouredgentleman。Hedidmethehonourtowaituponmeafterafashion，whileIwaseating；andwitheveryword，look，andgesturemarchedmefartherintothecountryofsurprise。HewasindeedstrikinglyunlikethenegroesofMrs。BeecherStowe，ortheChristyMinstrelsofmyyouth。Imagineagentleman，certainlysomewhatdark，butofapleasantwarmhue，speakingEnglishwithaslightandratheroddforeignaccent，everyinchamanoftheworld，andarmedwithmannerssopatronisinglysuperiorthatIamatalosstonametheirparallelinEngland。Abutlerperhapsridesashighovertheunbutlered，butthenhesetsyourightwithareserveandasortofsighingpatiencewhichoneisoftenmovedtoadmire。Andagain，theabstractbutlerneverstoopstofamiliarity。 Butthecolouredgentlemanwillpassyouawinkatatime；heisfamiliarlikeanupperformboytoafag；heunbendstoyoulikePrinceHalwithPoinsandFalstaff。Hemakeshimselfathomeandwelcome。Indeed，Imaysay，thiswaiterbehavedhimselftomethroughoutthatsuppermuchas，withus，ayoung，free，andnotveryself-respectingmastermightbehavetoagood-lookingchambermaid。Ihadcomepreparedtopitythepoornegro，toputhimathisease，toproveinathousandcondescensionsthatIwasnosharerintheprejudiceofrace；butIassureyouIputmypatronageawayforanotheroccasion，andhadthegracetobepleasedwiththatresult。 Seeinghewasaveryhonestfellow，Iconsultedhimuponapointofetiquette:ifoneshouldoffertotiptheAmericanwaiter？ Certainlynot，hetoldme。Never。Itwouldnotdo。Theyconsideredthemselvestoohighlytoaccept。Theywouldevenresenttheoffer。Asforhimandme，wehadenjoyedaverypleasantconversation；he，inparticular，hadfoundmuchpleasureinmysociety；Iwasastranger；thiswasexactlyoneofthoserareconjunctures……Withoutbeingveryclearseeing，Icanstillperceivethesunatnoonday；andthecolouredgentlemandeftlypocketedaquarter。 WEDNESDAY-AlittleaftermidnightIconvoyedmywidowandorphansonboardthetrain；andmorningfoundusfarintoOhio。 Thishadearlybeenafavouritehomeofmyimagination；IhaveplayedatbeinginOhiobytheweek，andenjoyedsomecapitalsporttherewithadummygun，mypersonbeingstillunbreeched。MypreferencewasfoundedonaworkwhichappearedinCASSELL\'SFAMILY PAPER，andwasreadaloudtomebymynurse。ItnarratedthedoingsofoneCustaloga，anIndianbrave，who，inthelastchapter，veryobliginglywashedthepaintoffhisfaceandbecameSirReginaldSomebody-or-other；atrickIneverforgavehim。TheideaofamanbeinganIndianbrave，andthengivingthatuptobeabaronet，wasonewhichmymindrejected。Itoffendedverisimilitude，likethepretendedanxietyofRobinsonCrusoeandotherstoescapefromuninhabitedislands。 ButOhiowasnotatallasIhadpicturedit。WewerenowonthosegreatplainswhichstretchunbrokentotheRockyMountains。ThecountrywasflatlikeHolland，butfarfrombeingdull。AllthroughOhio，Indiana，Illinois，andIowa，orforasmuchasIsawofthemfromthetrainandinmywakingmoments，itwasrichandvarious，andbreathedanelegancepeculiartoitself。Thetallcornpleasedtheeye；thetreesweregracefulinthemselves，andframedtheplainintolong，aerialvistas；andtheclean，bright，gardenedtownshipsspokeofcountryfareandpleasantsummereveningsonthestoop。Itwasasortofflatparadise；but，Iamafraid，notunfrequentedbythedevil。 ThatmorningdawnedwithsuchafreezingchillasIhaverarelyfelt；achillthatwasnotperhapssomeasurablebyinstrument，asitstruckhomeupontheheartandseemedtotravelwiththeblood。Daycameinwithashudder。Whitemistslaythinlyoverthesurfaceoftheplain，asweseethemmoreoftenonalake；andthoughthesunhadsoondispersedanddrunkthemup，leavinganatmosphereoffeverheatandcrystalpurenessfromhorizontohorizon，themistshadstillbeenthere，andweknewthatthisparadisewashauntedbykillingdampsandfoulmalaria。Thefencesalongthelineborebuttwodescriptionsofadvertisement；onetorecommendtobaccos，andtheothertovauntremediesagainsttheague。Atthepointofday，andwhilewewereallinthegraspofthatfirstchill，anativeofthestate，whohadgotinatsomewaystation，pronouncedit，withadoctoralair，\"afeverandaguemorning。\" TheDutchwidowwasapersonofsomecharacter。Shehadconceivedatfirstsightagreataversionforthepresentwriter，whichshewasatnopainstoconceal。Butbeingawomanofapracticalspirit，shemadenodifficultyaboutacceptingmyattentions，andencouragedmetobuyherchildrenfruitsandcandies，tocarryallherparcels，andeventosleepuponthefloorthatshemightprofitbymyemptyseat。Nay，shewassucharattlebynature，and，sopowerfullymovedtoautobiographicaltalk，thatshewasforced，forwantofabetter，totakemeintoconfidenceandtellmethestoryofherlife。Iheardaboutherlatehusband，whoseemedtohavemadehischiefimpressionbytakingheroutpleasuringonSundays。 Icouldtellyouherprospects，herhopes，theamountofherfortune，thecostofherhousekeepingbytheweek，andavarietyofparticularmattersthatarenotusuallydisclosedexcepttofriends。Atonestation，sheshookupherchildrentolookatamanontheplatformandsayifhewerenotlikeMr。Z。；whiletomesheexplainedhowshehadbeenkeepingcompanywiththisMr。Z。，howfarmattershadproceeded，andhowitwasbecauseofhisdesistancethatshewasnowtravellingtotheWest。Then，whenI wasthusputinpossessionofthefacts，sheaskedmyjudgmentonthattypeofmanlybeauty。Iadmiredittoherheart\'scontent。 Shewasnot，Ithink，remarkablyveraciousintalk，butbroideredasfancyprompted，andbuiltcastlesintheairoutofherpast； yetshehadthatsortofcandour，tokeepme，inspiteofalltheseconfidences，steadilyawareofheraversion。Herpartingwordswereingeniouslyhonest。\"Iamsure，\"saidshe，\"weallOUGHTtobeverymuchobligedtoyou。\"Icannotpretendthatsheputmeatmyease；butIhadacertainrespectforsuchagenuinedislike。A poornaturewouldhaveslipped，inthecourseofthesefamiliarities，intoasortofworthlesstolerationforme。 WereachedChicagointheevening。Iwasturnedoutofthecars，bundledintoanomnibus，anddrivenoffthroughthestreetstothestationofadifferentrailroad。Chicagoseemedagreatandgloomycity。Irememberhavingsubscribed，letussaysixpence，towardsitsrestorationattheperiodofthefire；andnowwhenIbeheldstreetafterstreetofponderoushousesandcrowdsofcomfortableburghers，Ithoughtitwouldbeagracefulactforthecorporationtorefundthatsixpence，or，attheleast，toentertainmetoacheerfuldinner。Buttherewasnowordofrestitution。Iwasthatcity\'sbenefactor，yetIwasreceivedinathird-classwaiting- room，andthebestdinnerIcouldgetwasadishofhamandeggsatmyownexpense。 Icansafelysay，Ihaveneverbeensodog-tiredasthatnightinChicago。Whenitwastimetostart，Idescendedtheplatformlikeamaninadream。Itwasalongtrain，lightedfromendtoend； andcaraftercar，asIcameupwithit，wasnotonlyfilledbutoverflowing。Myvalise，myknapsack，myrug，withthosesixponderoustomesofBancroft，weighedmedouble；Iwashot，feverish，painfullyathirst；andtherewasagreatdarknessoverme，aninternaldarkness，nottobedispelledbygas。WhenatlastIfoundanemptybench，Isankintoitlikeabundleofrags，theworldseemedtoswimawayintothedistance，andmyconsciousnessdwindledwithinmetoamerepin\'shead，likeataperonafoggynight。 WhenIcamealittlemoretomyself，Ifoundthattherehadsatdownbesidemeaverycheerful，rosylittleGermangentleman，somewhatgoneindrink，whowastalkingawaytome，nineteentothedozen，astheysay。Ididmybesttokeepuptheconversation；foritseemedtomedimlyasifsomethingdependeduponthat。Iheardhimrelate，amongmanyotherthings，thattherewerepickpocketsonthetrain，whohadalreadyrobbedamanoffortydollarsandareturnticket；butthoughIcaughtthewords，IdonotthinkI properlyunderstoodthesenseuntilnextmorning；andIbelieveI repliedatthetimethatIwasverygladtohearit。WhatelsehetalkedaboutIhavenoguess；Irememberagabblingsoundofwords，hisprofusegesticulation，andhissmile，whichwashighlyexplanatory:butnomore。AndIsupposeImusthaveshownmyconfusionveryplainly；for，first，Isawhimknithisbrowsatmelikeonewhohasconceivedadoubt；next，hetriedmeinGerman，supposingperhapsthatIwasunfamiliarwiththeEnglishtongue； andfinally，indespair，heroseandleftme。Ifeltchagrined； butmyfatiguewastoocrushingfordelay，and，stretchingmyselfasfarasthatwaspossibleuponthebench，Iwasreceivedatonceintoadreamlessstupor。 ThelittleGermangentlemanwasonlygoingalittlewayintothesuburbsafteraDINERFIN，andwasbentonentertainmentwhilethejourneylasted。Havingfailedwithme，hepitchednextuponanotheremigrant，whohadcomethroughfromCanada，andwasnotonejotlesswearythanmyself。Nay，eveninanaturalstate，asI foundnextmorningwhenwescrapedacquaintance，hewasaheavy，uncommunicativeman。Aftertryinghimondifferenttopics，itappearsthatthelittleGermangentlemanflouncedintoatemper，sworeanoathortwo，anddepartedfromthatcarinquestofliveliersociety。Poorlittlegentleman!Isupposehethoughtanemigrantshouldbearollicking，free-heartedblade，withaflaskofforeignbrandyandalong，comicalstorytobeguilethemomentsofdigestion。 THURSDAY-Isupposetheremustbeacycleinthefatigueoftravelling，forwhenIawokenextmorning，Iwasentirelyrenewedinspiritsandateaheartybreakfastofporridge，withsweetmilk，andcoffeeandhotcakes，atBurlingtonupontheMississippi。 Anotherlongday\'sridefollowed，withbutonefeatureworthyofremark。AtaplacecalledCreston，adrunkenmangotin。Hewasaggressivelyfriendly，but，accordingtoEnglishnotions，notatallunpresentableuponatrain。Foronestageheeludedthenoticeoftheofficials；butjustaswewerebeginningtomoveoutofthenextstation，Cromwellbyname，bycametheconductor。Therewasawordortwooftalk；andthentheofficialhadthemanbytheshoulders，twitchedhimfromhisseat，marchedhimthroughthecar，andsenthimflyingontothetrack。Itwasdoneinthreemotions，asexactasapieceofdrill。Thetrainwasstillmovingslowly，althoughbeginningtomendherpace，andthedrunkardgothisfeetwithoutafall。Hecarriedaredbundle，thoughnotsoredashischeeks；andheshookthismenacinglyintheairwithonehand，whiletheotherstolebehindhimtotheregionofthekidneys。ItwasthefirstindicationthatIhadcomeamongrevolvers，andI