第2章

observeditwithsomeemotion。Theconductorstoodonthestepswithonehandonhiship，lookingbackathim；andperhapsthisattitudeimposeduponthecreature，forheturnedwithoutfurtherado，andwentoffstaggeringalongthetracktowardsCromwellfollowedbyapealoflaughterfromthecars。TheywerespeakingEnglishallaboutme，butIknewIwasinaforeignland。 Twentyminutesbeforeninethatnight，weweredepositedatthePacificTransferStationnearCouncilBluffs，ontheeasternbankoftheMissouririver。Hereweweretostaythenightatakindofcaravanserai，setapartforemigrants。ButIgavewaytoathirstforluxury，separatedmyselffrommycompanions，andmarchedwithmyeffectsintotheUnionPacificHotel。Awhiteclerkandacolouredgentlemanwhom，inmyplainEuropeanway，Ishouldcalltheboots，wereinstalledbehindacounterlikebanktellers。Theytookmyname，assignedmeanumber，andproceededtodealwithmypackages。Andherecamethetugofwar。Iwishedtogiveupmypackagesintosafekeeping；butIdidnotwishtogotobed。Andthis，itappeared，wasimpossibleinanAmericanhotel。 Itwas，ofcourse，someinanemisunderstanding，andsprangfrommyunfamiliaritywiththelanguage。Foralthoughtwonationsusethesamewordsandreadthesamebooks，intercourseisnotconductedbythedictionary。Thebusinessoflifeisnotcarriedonbywords，butinsetphrases，eachwithaspecialandalmostaslangsignification。SomeinternationalobscurityprevailedbetweenmeandthecolouredgentlemanatCouncilBluffs；sothatwhatIwasasking，whichseemedverynaturaltome，appearedtohimamonstrousexigency。Herefused，andthatwiththeplainnessoftheWest。ThisAmericanmannerofconductingmattersofbusinessis，atfirst，highlyunpalatabletotheEuropean。Whenweapproachamaninthewayofhiscalling，andforthoseservicesbywhichheearnshisbread，weconsiderhimforthetimebeingourhiredservant。ButintheAmericanopinion，twogentlemenmeetandhaveafriendlytalkwithaviewtoexchangingfavoursiftheyshallagreetoplease。Iknownotwhichisthemoreconvenient，norevenwhichisthemoretrulycourteous。TheEnglishstiffnessunfortunatelytendstobecontinuedaftertheparticulartransactionisatanend，andthusfavoursclassseparations。Butontheotherhand，theseequalitarianplainnessesleaveanopenfieldfortheinsolenceofJack-in-office。 Iwasnettledbythecolouredgentleman\'srefusal，andunbuttonedmywrathunderthesimilitudeofironicalsubmission。Iknewnothing，Isaid，ofthewaysofAmericanhotels；butIhadnodesiretogivetrouble。Iftherewasnothingforitbuttogettobedimmediately，lethimsaytheword，andthoughitwasnotmyhabit，Ishouldcheerfullyobey。 Heburstintoashoutoflaughter。\"Ah!\"saidhe，\"youdonotknowaboutAmerica。TheyarefinepeopleinAmerica。Oh!youwilllikethemverywell。Butyoumustn\'tgetmad。Iknowwhatyouwant。 Youcomealongwithme。\" Andissuingfrombehindthecounter，andtakingmebythearmlikeanoldacquaintance，heledmetothebarofthehotel。 \"There，\"saidhe，pushingmefromhimbytheshoulder，\"goandhaveadrink!\" THEEMIGRANTTRAIN AllthiswhileIhadbeentravellingbymixedtrains，whereImightmeetwithDutchwidowsandlittleGermangentryfreshfromtable。 Ihadbeenbutalatentemigrant；nowIwastobebrandedoncemore，andputapartwithmyfellows。ItwasabouttwointheafternoonofFridaythatIfoundmyselfinfrontoftheEmigrantHouse，withmorethanahundredothers，tobesortedandboxedforthejourney。Awhite-hairedofficial，withastickunderonearm，andalistintheotherhand，stoodapartinfrontofus，andcallednameafternameinthetoneofacommand。Ateachnameyouwouldseeafamilygatherupitsbratsandbundlesandrunforthehindmostofthethreecarsthatstoodawaitingus，andIsoonconcludedthatthiswastobesetapartforthewomenandchildren。 Thesecondorcentralcar，itturnedout，wasdevotedtomentravellingalone，andthethirdtotheChinese。Theofficialwaseasilymovedtoangerattheleastdelay；buttheemigrantswerebothquickatansweringtheirnames，andspeedyingettingthemselvesandtheireffectsonboard。 Thefamiliesoncehoused，wemencarriedthesecondcarwithoutceremonybysimultaneousassault。IsupposethereaderhassomenotionofanAmericanrailroad-car，thatlong，narrowwoodenbox，likeaflat-roofedNoah\'sark，withastoveandaconvenience，oneateitherend，apassagedownthemiddle，andtransversebenchesuponeitherhand。ThosedestinedforemigrantsontheUnionPacificareonlyremarkablefortheirextremeplainness，nothingbutwoodenteringinanypartintotheirconstitution，andfortheusualinefficacyofthelamps，whichoftenwentoutandshedbutadyingglimmerevenwhiletheyburned。Thebenchesaretooshortforanythingbutayoungchild。Wherethereisscarceelbow-roomfortwotosit，therewillnotbespaceenoughforonetolie。 Hencethecompany，orrather，asitappearsfromcertainbillsabouttheTransferStation，thecompany\'sservants，haveconceivedaplanforthebetteraccommodationoftravellers。Theyprevailoneverytwotochumtogether。Toeachofthechumstheysellaboardandthreesquarecushionsstuffedwithstraw，andcoveredwiththincotton。Thebenchescanbemadetofaceeachotherinpairs，forthebacksarereversible。Ontheapproachofnighttheboardsarelaidfrombenchtobench，makingacouchwideenoughfortwo，andlongenoughforamanofthemiddleheight；andthechumsliedownsidebysideuponthecushionswiththeheadtotheconductor\'svanandthefeettotheengine。Whenthetrainisfull，ofcoursethisplanisimpossible，fortheremustnotbemorethanonetoeverybench，neithercanitbecarriedoutunlessthechumsagree。Itwastobringaboutthislastconditionthatourwhite-hairedofficialnowbestirredhimself。Hemadeamostactivemasterofceremonies，introducinglikelycouples，andevenguaranteeingtheamiabilityandhonestyofeach。Thegreaterthenumberofhappycouplesthebetterforhispocket，foritwashewhosoldtherawmaterialofthebeds。Hispriceforoneboardandthreestrawcushionsbeganwithtwodollarsandahalf；butbeforethetrainleft，and，Iamsorrytosay，longafterIhadpurchasedmine，ithadfallentoonedollarandahalf。 Thematch-makerhadadifficultywithme；perhaps，likesomeladies，Ishowedmyselftooeagerforunionatanyprice；butcertainlythefirstwhowaspickedouttobemybedfellow，declinedthehonourwithoutthanks。Hewasanold，heavy，slow-spokenman，IthinkfromYankeeland，lookedmealloverwithgreattimidity，andthenbegantoexcusehimselfinbrokenphrases。Hedidn\'tknowtheyoungman，hesaid。Theyoungmanmightbeveryhonest，buthowwashetoknowthat？Therewasanotheryoungmanwhomhehadmetalreadyinthetrain；heguessedhewashonest，andwouldprefertochumwithhimuponthewhole。Allthiswithoutanysortofexcuse，asthoughIhadbeeninanimateorabsent。Ibegantotremblelesteveryoneshouldrefusemycompany，andIbeleftrejected。Butthenextinturnwasatall，strapping，long-limbed，small-headed，curly-hairedPennsylvaniaDutchman，withasoldierlysmartnessinhismanner。Tobeexact，hehadacquireditinthenavy。Butthatwasallone；hehadatleastbeentrainedtodesperateresolves，soheacceptedthematch，andthewhite-hairedswindlerpronouncedtheconnubialbenediction，andpocketedhisfees。 Therestoftheafternoonwasspentinmakingupthetrain。Iamafraidtosayhowmanybaggage-waggonsfollowedtheengine，certainlyascore；thencametheChinese，thenwe，thenthefamilies，andtherearwasbroughtupbytheconductorinwhat，ifIhaveitrightly，iscalledhiscaboose。TheclasstowhichI belongedwasofcoursefarthelargest，andweranover，sotospeak，tobothsides；sothatthereweresomeCaucasiansamongtheChinamen，andsomebachelorsamongthefamilies。Butourowncarwaspurefromadmixture，saveforonelittleboyofeightorninewhohadthewhooping-cough。Atlast，aboutsix，thelongtraincrawledoutoftheTransferStationandacrossthewideMissouririvertoOmaha，westwardbound。 Itwasatroubleduncomfortableeveninginthecars。Therewasthunderintheair，whichhelpedtokeepusrestless。Amanplayedmanyairsuponthecornet，andnoneofthemweremuchattendedto，untilhecameto\"Home，sweethome。\"Itwastrulystrangetonotehowthetalkceasedatthat，andthefacesbegantolengthen。I havenoideawhethermusicallythisairistobeconsideredgoodorbad；butitbelongstothatclassofartwhichmaybebestdescribedasabrutalassaultuponthefeelings。Pathosmustberelievedbydignityoftreatment。Ifyouwallownakedinthepathetic，liketheauthorof\"Home，sweethome，\"youmakeyourhearersweepinanunmanlyfashion；andevenwhileyettheyaremoved，theydespisethemselvesandhatetheoccasionoftheirweakness。Itdidnotcometotearsthatnight，fortheexperimentwasinterrupted。Anelderly，hard-lookingman，withagoateebeardandaboutasmuchappearanceofsentimentanyouwouldexpectfromaretiredslaver，turnedwithastartandbadetheperformerstopthat\"damnedthing。\"\"I\'veheardaboutenoughofthat，\"headded； \"giveussomethingaboutthegoodcountrywe\'regoingto。\"A murmurofadhesionranroundthecar；theperformertooktheinstrumentfromhislips，laughedandnodded，andthenstruckintoadancingmeasure；and，likeanewTimotheus，stilledimmediatelytheemotionhehadraised。 Thedayfaded；thelampswerelit；apartyofwildyoungmen，whogotoffnexteveningatNorthPlatte，stoodtogetheronthesternplatform，singing\"TheSweetBy-and-bye\"withverytunefulvoices； thechumsbegantoputuptheirbeds；anditseemedasifthebusinessofthedaywereatanend。Butitwasnotso；for，thetrainstoppingatsomestation，thecarswereinstantlythrongedwiththenatives，wivesandfathers，youngmenandmaidens，someoftheminlittlemorethannightgear，somewithstablelanterns，andallofferingbedsforsale。Theirchargebeganwithtwenty-fivecentsacushion，butfell，beforethetrainwentonagain，tofifteen，withthebed-boardgratis，orlessthanone-fifthofwhatIhadpaidformineattheTransfer。Thisismycontributiontotheeconomyoffutureemigrants。 AgreatpersonageonanAmericantrainisthenewsboy。Hesellsbooks(suchbooks!)，papers，fruit，lollipops，andcigars；andonemigrantjourneys，soap，towels，tinwashingdishes，tincoffeepitchers，coffee，tea，sugar，andtinnedeatables，mostlyhashorbeansandbacon。Earlynextmorningthenewsboywentaroundthecars，andchummingonamoreextendedprinciplebecametheorderofthehour。Itrequiresbutacopartneryoftwotomanagebeds；butwashingandeatingcanbecarriedonmosteconomicallybyasyndicateofthree。Imyselfenteredalittleaftersunriseintoarticlesofagreement，andbecameoneofthefirmofPennsylvania，Shakespeare，andDubuque。Shakespearewasmyownnicknameonthecars；Pennsylvaniathatofmybedfellow；andDubuque，thenameofaplaceintheStateofIowa，thatofanamiableyoungfellowgoingwesttocureanasthma，andretardinghisrecoverybyincessantlychewingorsmoking，andsometimeschewingandsmokingtogether。I haveneverseentobaccososillilyabused。Shakespeareboughtatinwashing-dish，Dubuqueatowel，andPennsylvaniaabrickofsoap。Thepartnersusedtheseinstruments，oneafteranother，accordingtotheorderoftheirfirstawaking；andwhenthefirmhadfinishedtherewasnowantofborrowers。Eachfilledthetindishatthewaterfilteroppositethestove，andretiredwiththewholestockintradetotheplatformofthecar。Therehekneltdown，supportinghimselfbyashoulderagainstthewoodworkoroneelbowcrookedabouttherailing，andmadeashifttowashhisfaceandneckandhands；acold，aninsufficient，and，ifthetrainismovingrapidly，asomewhatdangeroustoilet。 Onasimilardivisionofexpense，thefirmofPennsylvania，Shakespeare，andDubuquesuppliedthemselveswithcoffee，sugar，andnecessaryvessels；andtheiroperationsareatypeofwhatwentonthroughallthecars。Beforethesunwasupthestovewouldbebrightlyburning；atthefirststationthenativeswouldcomeonboardwithmilkandeggsandcoffeecakes；andsoonfromendtoendthecarwouldbefilledwithlittlepartiesbreakfastinguponthebed-boards。Itwasthepleasantesthouroftheday。 Thereweremealstobehad，however，bythewayside:abreakfastinthemorning，adinnersomewherebetweenelevenandtwo，andsupperfromfivetoeightornineatnight。Wehadrarelylessthantwentyminutesforeach；andifwehadnotspentmanyanothertwentyminuteswaitingforsomeexpressuponasidetrackamongmilesofdesert，wemighthavetakenanhourtoeachrepastandarrivedatSanFranciscouptotime。Forhasteisnotthefoibleofanemigranttrain。Itgetsthroughonsufferance，runningthegauntletamongitsmoreconsiderablebrethren；shouldtherebeablock，itisunhesitatinglysacrificed；andtheycannot，inconsequence，predictthelengthofthepassagewithinadayorso。 Civilityisthemaincomfortthatyoumiss。Equality，thoughconceivedverylargelyinAmerica，doesnotextendsolowdownastoanemigrant。Thusinallothertrains，awarningcryof\"Allaboard!\"recallsthepassengerstotaketheirseats；butassoonasIwasalonewithemigrants，andfromtheTransferallthewaytoSanFrancisco，Ifoundthisceremonywaspretermitted；thetrainstolefromthestationwithoutnoteofwarning，andyouhadtokeepaneyeuponitevenwhileyouate。Theannoyanceisconsiderable，andthedisrespectbothwantonandpetty。 Manyconductors，again，willholdnocommunicationwithanemigrant。Iaskedaconductoronedayatwhattimethetrainwouldstopfordinner；ashemadenoanswerIrepeatedthequestion，withalikeresult；athirdtimeIreturnedtothecharge，andthenJack-in-officelookedmecoollyinthefaceforseveralsecondsandturnedostentatiouslyaway。Ibelievehewashalfashamedofhisbrutality；forwhenanotherpersonmadethesameinquiry，althoughhestillrefusedtheinformation，hecondescendedtoanswer，andeventojustifyhisreticenceinavoiceloudenoughformetohear。Itwas，hesaid，hisprinciplenottotellpeoplewheretheyweretodine；foroneanswerledtomanyotherquestions，aswhato\'clockitwas？or，howsoonshouldwebethere？andhecouldnotaffordtobeeternallyworried。 Asyouarethuscutofffromthesuperiorauthorities，agreatdealofyourcomfortdependsonthecharacterofthenewsboy。Hehasitinhispowerindefinitelytobetterandbrightentheemigrant\'slot。ThenewsboywithwhomwestartedfromtheTransferwasadark，bullying，contemptuous，insolentscoundrel，whotreateduslikedogs。Indeed，inhiscase，matterscamenearlytoafight。 Ithappenedthus:hewasgoinghisroundsthroughthecarswithsomecommoditiesforsale，andcomingtoapartywhowereatSEVEN- UPorCASCINO(ourtwogames)，uponabed-board，slungdownacigar-boxinthemiddleofthecards，knockingoneman\'shandtothefloor。Itwasthelaststraw。Inamomentthewholepartywereupontheirfeet，thecigarswereupset，andhewasorderedto\"getoutofthatdirectly，orhewouldgetmorethanhereckonedfor。\"Thefellowgrumbledandmuttered，butendedbymakingoff，andwaslessopenlyinsultinginthefuture。Ontheotherhand，theladwhorodewithusinthiscapacityfromOgdentoSacramentomadehimselfthefriendofall，andhelpeduswithinformation，attention，assistance，andakindcountenance。Hetolduswhereandwhenweshouldhaveourmeals，andhowlongthetrainwouldstop；keptseatsattableforthosewhoweredelayed，andwatchedthatweshouldneitherbeleftbehindnoryetunnecessarilyhurried。You，wholiveathomeatease，canhardlyrealisethegreatnessofthisservice，evenhaditstoodalone。WhenIthinkofthatladcomingandgoing，trainaftertrain，withhisbrightfaceandcivilwords，Iseehoweasilyagoodmanmaybecomethebenefactorofhiskind。Perhapsheisdiscontentedwithhimself，perhapstroubledwithambitions；why，ifhebutknewit，heisaherooftheoldGreekstamp；andwhilehethinksheisonlyearningaprofitofafewcents，andthatperhapsexorbitant，heisdoingaman\'swork，andbetteringtheworld。 Imusttellhereanexperienceofminewithanothernewsboy。I tellitbecauseitgivessogoodanexampleofthatuncivilkindnessoftheAmerican，whichisperhapstheirmostbewilderingcharactertoonenewlylanded。ItwasimmediatelyafterIhadlefttheemigranttrain；andIamtoldIlookedlikeamanatdeath\'sdoor，somuchhadthislongjourneyshakenme。Isatattheendofacar，andthecatchbeingbroken，andmyselffeverishandsick，I hadtoholdthedooropenwithmyfootforthesakeofair。Inthisattitudemylegdebarredthenewsboyfromhisboxofmerchandise。ImadehastetolethimpasswhenIobservedthathewascoming；butIwasbusywithabook，andsoonceortwicehecameuponmeunawares。Ontheseoccasionshemostrudelystruckmyfootaside；andthoughImyselfapologised，asiftoshowhimtheway，heansweredmeneveraword。Ichafedfuriously，andIfearthenexttimeitwouldhavecometowords。ButsuddenlyIfeltatouchuponmyshoulder，andalargejuicypearwasputintomyhand。Itwasthenewsboy，whohadobservedthatIwaslookingill，andsomademethispresentoutofatenderheart。FortherestofthejourneyIwaspettedlikeasickchild；helentmenewspapers，thusdeprivinghimselfofhislegitimateprofitontheirsale，andcamerepeatedlytositbymeandcheermeup。 THEPLAINSOFNEBRASKA IthadthunderedontheFridaynight，butthesunroseonSaturdaywithoutacloud。Wewereatsea-thereisnootheradequateexpression-ontheplainsofNebraska。Imademyobservatoryonthetopofafruit-waggon，andsatbythehouruponthatperchtospyaboutme，andtospyinvainforsomethingnew。Itwasaworldalmostwithoutafeature；anemptysky，anemptyearth；frontandback，thelineofrailwaystretchedfromhorizontohorizon，likeacueacrossabilliard-board；oneitherhand，thegreenplainrantillittouchedtheskirtsofheaven。Alongthetrackinnumerablewildsunflowers，nobiggerthanacrown-piece，bloomedinacontinuousflower-bed；grazingbeastswereseenupontheprairieatalldegreesofdistanceanddiminution；andnowandagainwemightperceiveafewdotsbesidetherailroadwhichgrewmoreandmoredistinctaswedrewnearertilltheyturnedintowoodencabins，andthendwindledanddwindledinourwakeuntiltheymeltedintotheirsurroundings，andwewereoncemorealoneuponthebilliard-board。 Thetraintoiledoverthisinfinitylikeasnail；andbeingtheonethingmoving，itwaswonderfulwhathugeproportionsitbegantoassumeinourregard。Itseemedmilesinlength，andeitherendofitwithinbutastepofthehorizon。Evenmyownbodyormyownheadseemedagreatthinginthatemptiness。InotethefeelingthemorereadilyasitisthecontraryofwhatIhavereadofintheexperienceofothers。Dayandnight，abovetheroarofthetrain，ourearswerekeptbusywiththeincessantchirpofgrasshoppers-anoiselikethewindingupofcountlessclocksandwatches，whichbeganafterawhiletoseempropertothatland。 Toonehurryingthroughbysteamtherewasacertainexhilarationinthisspaciousvacancy，thisgreatnessoftheair，thisdiscoveryofthewholearchofheaven，thisstraight，unbroken，prison-lineofthehorizon。Yetonecouldnotbutreflectuponthewearinessofthosewhopassedbythereinolddays，atthefoot\'spaceofoxen，painfullyurgingtheirteams，andwithnolandmarkbutthatunattainableeveningsunforwhichtheysteered，andwhichdailyfledthembyanequalstride。Theyhadnothing，itwouldseem，toovertake；nothingbywhichtoreckontheiradvance；nosightforreposeorforencouragement；butstageafterstage，onlythedeadgreenwasteunderfoot，andthemocking，fugitivehorizon。Buttheeye，asIhavebeentold，founddifferencesevenhere；andattheworsttheemigrantcame，byperseverance，totheendofhistoil。 Itisthesettlers，afterall，atwhomwehavearighttomarvel。 Ourconsciousness，bywhichwelive，isitselfbutthecreatureofvariety。Uponwhatfooddoesitsubsistinsuchaland？Whatlivelihoodcanrepayahumancreatureforalifespentinthishugesameness？Heiscutofffrombooks，fromnews，fromcompany，fromallthatcanrelieveexistencebuttheprosecutionofhisaffairs。 Askyfullofstarsisthemostvariedspectaclethathecanhope。 Hemaywalkfivemilesandseenothing；ten，anditisasthoughhehadnotmoved；twenty，andstillheisinthemidstofthesamegreatlevel，andhasapproachednonearertotheoneobjectwithinview，theflathorizonwhichkeepspacewithhisadvance。Wearefullathomeofthequestionofagreeablewall-papers，andwisepeopleareofopinionthatthetempermaybequietedbysedativesurroundings。ButwhatistobesaidoftheNebraskansettler？ Hisisawall-paperwithavengeance-onequarteroftheuniverselaidbareinallitsgauntness。 Hiseyemustembraceateveryglancethewholeseemingconcaveofthevisibleworld；itquailsbeforesovastanoutlook，itistorturedbydistance；yetthereisnorestorsheltertillthemanrunsintohiscabin，andcanreposehissightuponthingsnearathand。Hence，Iamtold，asicknessofthevisionpeculiartotheseemptyplains。 Yetperhapswithsunflowersandcicadae，summerandwinter，cattle，wifeandfamily，thesettlermaycreateafullandvariousexistence。OnepersonatleastIsawupontheplainswhoseemedineverywaysuperiortoherlot。Thiswasawomanwhoboardedusatawaystation，sellingmilk。Shewaslargelyformed；herfeaturesweremorethancomely；shehadthatgreatrarity-afinecomplexionwhichbecameher；andhereyeswerekind，dark，andsteady。Shesoldmilkwithpatriarchalgrace。Therewasnotalineinhercountenance，notanoteinhersoftandsleepyvoice，butspokeofanentirecontentmentwithherlife。Itwouldhavebeenfatuousarrogancetopitysuchawoman。Yettheplacewhereshelivedwastomealmostghastly。Lessthanadozenwoodenhouses，allofashapeandallnearlyofasize，stoodplantedalongtherailwaylines。Eachstoodapartinitsownlot。Eachopeneddirectoffthebilliard-board，asifitwereabilliard- boardindeed，andtheseonlymodelsthathadbeensetdownuponitreadymade。Herown，intowhichIlooked，wascleanbutveryempty，andshowednothinghomelikebuttheburningfire。Thisextremenewness，aboveallinsonakedandflatacountry，givesastrongimpressionofartificiality。Withnoneofthelitteranddiscolorationofhumanlife；withthepathsunworn，andthehousesstillsweatingfromtheaxe，suchasettlementasthisseemspurelyscenic。Themindislothtoacceptitforapieceofreality；anditseemsincrediblethatlifecangoonwithsofewproperties，orthegreatchild，man，findentertainmentinsobareaplayroom。 Andtrulyitisasyetanincompletesocietyinsomepoints；oratleastitcontained，asIpassedthrough，onepersonincompletelycivilised。AtNorthPlatte，wherewesuppedthatevening，onemanaskedanothertopassthemilk-jug。Thisotherwaswell-dressedandofwhatweshouldcallarespectableappearance；adarkishman，highspoken，eatingasthoughhehadsomeusageofsociety；butheturneduponthefirstspeakerwithextraordinaryvehemenceoftone- \"There\'sawaiterhere!\"hecried。 \"Ionlyaskedyoutopassthemilk，\"explainedthefirst。 Hereistheretortverbatim- \"Pass!Hell!I\'mnotpaidforthatbusiness；thewaiter\'spaidforit。Youshouldusecivilityattable，and，byGod，I\'llshowyouhow!\" Theothermanverywiselymadenoanswer，andthebullywentonwithhissupperasthoughnothinghadoccurred。Itpleasesmetothinkthatsomedaysoonhewillmeetwithoneofhisownkidney； andthatperhapsbothmayfall。 THEDESERTOFWYOMING Tocrosssuchaplainistogrowhomesickforthemountains。I longedfortheBlackHillsofWyoming，whichIknewweweresoontoenter，likeanice-boundwhalerforthespring。Alas!anditwasaworsecountrythantheother。AllSundayandMondaywetravelledthroughthesesadmountains，oroverthemainridgeoftheRockies，whichisafairmatchtothemformiseryofaspect。Hourafterhouritwasthesameunhomelyandunkindlyworldaboutouronwardpath；tumbledboulders，cliffsthatdrearilyimitatetheshapeofmonumentsandfortifications-howdrearily，howtamely，nonecantellwhohasnotseenthem；notatree，notapatchofsward，notoneshapelyorcommandingmountainform；sage-brush，eternalsage- brush；overall，thesamewearifulandgloomycolouring，grayswarmingintobrown，graysdarkeningtowardsblack；andforsolesignoflife，hereandthereafewfleeingantelopes；hereandthere，butatincredibleintervals，acreekrunninginacanon。 Theplainshaveagrandeuroftheirown；butherethereisnothingbutacontortedsmallness。Exceptfortheair，whichwaslightandstimulating，therewasnotonegoodcircumstanceinthatGod- forsakenland。 Ihadbeensufferinginmyhealthagooddealalltheway；andatlast，whetherIwasexhaustedbymycomplaintorpoisonedinsomewaysideeating-house，theeveningweleftLaramie，Ifellsickoutright。ThatwasanightwhichIshallnotreadilyforget。Thelampsdidnotgoout；eachmadeafaintshininginitsownneighbourhood，andtheshadowswereconfoundedtogetherinthelong，hollowboxofthecar。Thesleeperslayinuneasyattitudes； heretwochumsalongside，flatupontheirbackslikedeadfolk； thereamansprawlingonthefloor，withhisfaceuponhisarm； thereanotherhalfseatedwithhisheadandshouldersonthebench。 Themostpassivewerecontinuallyandroughlyshakenbythemovementofthetrain；othersstirred，turned，orstretchedouttheirarmslikechildren；itwassurprisinghowmanygroanedandmurmuredintheirsleep；andasIpassedtoandfro，steppingacrosstheprostrate，andcaughtnowasnore，nowagasp，nowahalf-formedword，itgavemeameasureoftheworthlessnessofrestinthatunrestingvehicle。Althoughitwaschill，Iwasobligedtoopenmywindow，forthedegradationoftheairsoonbecameintolerabletoonewhowasawakeandusingthefullsupplyoflife。