第3章

Outside，inaglimmeringnight，Isawtheblack，amorphoushillsshootbyunweariedlyintoourwake。TheythatlongformorninghaveneverlongedforitmoreearnestlythanI。 Andyetwhendaycame，itwastoshineuponthesamebrokenandunsightlyquarteroftheworld。Mileuponmile，andnotatree，abird，orariver。Onlydownthelong，sterilecanons，thetrainshothootingandawoketherestingecho。Thattrainwastheonepieceoflifeinallthedeadlyland；itwastheoneactor，theonespectaclefittobeobservedinthisparalysisofmanandnature。 AndwhenIthinkhowtherailroadhasbeenpushedthroughthisunwateredwildernessandhauntofsavagetribes，andnowwillbearanemigrantforsome12poundsfromtheAtlantictotheGoldenGates；howateachstageoftheconstruction，roaring，impromptucities，fullofgoldandlustanddeath，sprangupandthendiedawayagain，andarenowbutwaysidestationsinthedesert；howintheseuncouthplacespig-tailedChinesepiratesworkedsidebysidewithborderruffiansandbrokenmenfromEurope，talkingtogetherinamixeddialect，mostlyoaths，gambling，drinking，quarrellingandmurderinglikewolves；howtheplumedhereditarylordofallAmericaheard，inthislastfastness，thescreamofthe\"badmedicinewaggon\"chariotinghisfoes；andthenwhenIgoontorememberthatallthisepicalturmoilwasconductedbygentlemeninfrockcoats，andwithaviewtonothingmoreextraordinarythanafortuneandasubsequentvisittoParis，itseemstome，Iown，asifthisrailwayweretheonetypicalachievementoftheageinwhichwelive，asifitbroughttogetherintooneplotalltheendsoftheworldandallthedegreesofsocialrank，andofferedtosomegreatwriterthebusiest，themostextended，andthemostvariedsubjectforanenduringliterarywork。Ifitberomance，ifitbecontrast，ifitbeheroismthatwerequire，whatwasTroytowntothis？But，alas!itisnotthesethingsthatarenecessary-itisonlyHomer。 Herealsowearegratefultothetrain，astosomegodwhoconductsusswiftlythroughtheseshadesandbysomanyhiddenperils。 Thirst，hunger，thesleightandferocityofIndiansareallnomorefeared，solightlydoweskimthesehorriblelands；asthegull，whowingssafelythroughthehurricaneandpasttheshark。Yetweshouldnotbeforgetfulofthesehardshipsofthepast；andtokeepthebalancetrue，sinceIhavecomplainedofthetriflingdiscomfortsofmyjourney，perhapsmorethanwasenough，letmeaddanoriginaldocument。ItwasnotwrittenbyHomer，butbyaboyofeleven，longsincedead，andisdatedonlytwentyyearsago。I shallpunctuate，tomakethingsclearer，butnotchangethespelling。 \"MydearSisterMary，-Iamafraidyouwillgonearlycrazywhenyoureadmyletter。IfJerry\"(thewriter\'seldestbrother)\"hasnotwrittentoyoubeforenow，youwillbesurprisedtohearethatweareinCalifornia，andthatpoorThomas\"(anotherbrother，offifteen)\"isdead。Westartedfrom-inJuly，withplenlyofprovisionsandtooyokeoxen。WewentalongverywelltillwegotwithinsixorsevenhundredmilesofCalifornia，whentheIndiansattackedus。Wefoundplaceswheretheyhadkilledtheemigrants。 Wehadonepassengerwithus，tooguns，andonerevolver；soweranalltheleadWehadintobullets(and)hungthegunsupinthewagonsothatwecouldgetattheminaminit。Itwasabouttwoo\'clockintheafternoon；droavethecattelalittleway；whenaprairiechickenalitedalittlewayfromthewagon。 \"Jerrytookoutoneofthegunstoshootit，andtoldTomdrivetheoxen。TomandIdrovetheoxen，andJerryandthepassengerwenton。Then，afteralittle，IleftTomandcaughtupwithJerryandtheotherman。JerrystoppedTomtocomeup；meandthemanwentonandsitdownbyalittlestream。Inafewminutes，weheardsomenoise；thenthreeshots(theyallstruckpoorTom，Isuppose)； thentheygavethewarhoop，andasmanyastwentyoftheredskinscamedownuponus。ThethreethatshotTomwashidbythesideoftheroadinthebushes。 \"IthoughttheTomandJerrywereshot；soItoldtheothermanthatTomandJerryweredead，andthatwehadbettertrytoescape，ifpossible。Ihadnoshoeson；havingasorefoot，IthoughtI wouldnotputthemon。Themanandmerundowntheroad，butWewassoonstoppedbyanIndianonapony。Wethenturendtheotherway，andrunupthesideoftheMountain，andhidbehindsomecedartrees，andstayedtheretilldark。TheIndianshuntedalloverafterus，andverryclosetous，soclosethatwecouldheretheretomyhawksJingle。Atdarkthemanandmestartedon，Istubingmytoesagainststicksandstones。Wetraveldonallnight；andnextmorning，justasitwasgettinggray，wesawsomethingintheshapeofaman。ItlayedDowninthegrass。Wewentuptoit，anditwasJerry。HethoughtwewareIndians。Youcanimaginehowgladhewastoseeme。Hethoughtwewasalldeadbuthim，andwethoughthimandTomwasdead。HehadthegunthathetookoutofthewagontoshoottheprairieChicken；allhehadwastheloadthatwasinit。 \"Wetraveldontillabouteighto\'clock，Wecaughtupwithonewagonwithtoomenwithit。Wehadtraveldwiththembeforeoneday；westoptandtheyDroveon；weknewthattheywasaheadofus，unlesstheyhadbeenkilledto。MyfeetwassosorewhenwecaughtupwiththemthatIhadtoride；Icouldnotstep。Wetraveldonfortoodays，whenthementhatownedthecattlesaidtheywould(could)notdrivethemanotherinch。Weunyokedtheoxen；wehadaboutseventypoundsofflour；wetookitoutanddivideditintofourpacks。Eachofthementookabout18poundsapieceandablanket。Icarriedalittlebacon，driedmeat，andlittlequilt；I hadinallabouttwelvepounds。Wehadonepintofflouradayforouralloyance。Sometimeswemadesoupofit；sometimeswe(made) pancakes；andsometimesmixeditupwithcoldwaterandeatitthatway。Wetraveldtwelveorfourteendays。Thetimecameatlastwhenweshouldhavetoreachsomeplaceorstarve。Wesawfreshhorseandcattletracks。Themorningcome，wescrapedalltheflouroutofthesack，mixeditup，andbakeditintobread，andmadesomesoup，andeateverythingwehad。Wetraveldonalldaywithoutanythingtoeat，andthateveningweCaughtupwithasheeptrainofeightwagons。Wetraveldwiththemtillwearrivedatthesettlements；andknowIamsafeinCalifornia，andgottogoodhome，andgoingtoschool。 \"Jerryisworkingin。Itisagoodcountry。Youcangetfrom50to60and75Dollarsforcooking。TellmeallabouttheaffairsintheStates，andhowallthefolksgetalong。\" Andsoendsthisartlessnarrative。Thelittlemanwasatschoolagain，Godblesshim，whilehisbrotherlayscalpeduponthedeserts。 FELLOW-PASSENGERS AtOgdenwechangedcarsfromtheUnionPacifictotheCentralPacificlineofrailroad。Thechangewasdoublywelcome；for，first，wehadbettercarsonthenewline；and，second，thoseinwhichwehadbeencoopedformorethanninetyhourshadbeguntostinkabominably。Severalyardsaway，aswereturned，letussayfromdinner，ournostrilswereassailedbyrancidair。Ihavestoodonaplatformwhilethewholetrainwasshunting；andasthedwelling-carsdrewnear，therewouldcomeawhiffofpuremenagerie，onlyalittlesourer，asfrommeninsteadofmonkeys。I thinkwearehumanonlyinvirtueofopenwindows。Withoutfreshair，youonlyrequireabadheart，andaremarkablecommandoftheQueen\'sEnglish，tobecomesuchanotherasDeanSwift；akindofleering，humangoat，leapingandwaggingyourscutonmountainsofoffence。Idomybesttokeepmyheadtheotherway，andlookforthehumanratherthanthebestialinthisYahoo-likebusinessoftheemigranttrain。ButonethingImustsay，thecaroftheChinesewasnotablytheleastoffensive。 ThecarsontheCentralPacificwerenearlytwiceashigh，andsoproportionallyairier；theywerefreshlyvarnished，whichgaveusallasenseofcleanlinessanthoughwehadbathed；theseatsdrewoutandjoinedinthecentre，sothattherewasnomoreneedforbedboards；andtherewasanuppertierofberthswhichcouldbeclosedbydayandopenedatnight。 IhadbythistimesomeopportunityofseeingthepeoplewhomIwasamong。TheywereinrathermarkedcontrasttotheemigrantsIhadmetonboardshipwhilecrossingtheAtlantic。Theyweremostlylumpishfellows，silentandnoisy，acommoncombination；somewhatsad，Ishouldsay，withanextraordinarypoortasteinhumour，andlittleinterestintheirfellow-creaturesbeyondthatofacheapandmerelyexternalcuriosity。Iftheyheardaman\'snameandbusiness，theyseemedtothinktheyhadtheheartofthatmystery； buttheywereaseagertoknowthatmuchastheywereindifferenttotherest。SomeofthemwereonnettlestilltheylearnedyournamewasDicksonandyouajourneymanbaker；butbeyondthat，whetheryouwereCatholicorMormon，dullorclever，fierceorfriendly，wasallonetothem。Otherswhowerenotsostupid，gossipedalittle，and，Iamboundtosay，unkindly。Afavouritewitticismwasforsomelouttoraisethealarmof\"Allaboard!\" whiletherestofusweredining，thuscontributinghismitetothegeneraldiscomfort。Suchaonewasalwaysmuchapplaudedforhishighspirits。WhenIwasillcomingthroughWyoming，Iwasastonished-freshfromtheeagerhumanityonboardship-tomeetwithlittlebutlaughter。Oneoftheyoungmenevenamusedhimselfbyincommodingme，aswasthenveryeasy；andthatnotfromill- nature，butmereclodlikeincapacitytothink，forheexpectedmetojointhelaugh。Ididso，butitwasphantommerriment。Lateron，amanfromKansashadthreeviolentepilepticfits，andthough，ofcourse，therewerenotwantingsometohelphim，itwasrathersuperstitiousterrorthansympathythathiscaseevokedamonghisfellow-passengers。\"Oh，Ihopehe\'snotgoingtodie!\"criedawoman；\"itwouldbeterribletohaveadeadbody!\"Andtherewasaverygeneralmovementtoleavethemanbehindatthenextstation。 This，bygoodfortune，theconductornegatived。 Therewasagooddealofstory-tellinginsomequarters；inothers，littlebutsilence。Inthissociety，morethananyotherthateverIwasin，itwasthenarratoralonewhoseemedtoenjoythenarrative。Itwasrarelythatanyonelistenedforthelistening。 Ifhelentaneartoanotherman\'sstory，itwasbecausehewasinimmediatewantofahearerforoneofhisown。Foodandtheprogressofthetrainwerethesubjectsmostgenerallytreated； manyjoinedtodiscussthesewhootherwisewouldholdtheirtongues。Onesmallknothadnobetteroccupationthantowormoutofmemyname；andthemoretheytried，themoreobstinatelyfixedIgrewtobafflethem。Theyassailedmewithartfulquestionsandinsidiousoffersofcorrespondenceinthefuture；butIwasperpetuallyonmyguard，andparriedtheirassaultswithinwardlaughter。IamsureDubuquewouldhavegivenmetendollarsforthesecret。Heowedmefarmore，hadheunderstoodlife，forthuspreservinghimalivelyinterestthroughoutthejourney。Imetoneofmyfellow-passengersmonthsafter，drivingastreettramwaycarinSanFrancisco；and，asthejokewasnowoutofseason，toldhimmynamewithoutsubterfuge。Youneversawamanmorechapfallen。 ButhadmynamebeenDemogorgon，aftersoprolongedamysteryhehadstillbeendisappointed。 TherewerenoemigrantsdirectfromEurope-saveoneGermanfamilyandaknotofCornishminerswhokeptgrimlybythemselves，onereadingtheNewTestamentalldaylongthroughsteelspectacles，therestdiscussingprivatelythesecretsoftheirold-world，mysteriousrace。LadyHesterStanhopebelievedshecouldmakesomethinggreatoftheCornish；formypart，Icanmakenothingofthematall。Adivisionofraces，olderandmoreoriginalthanthatofBabel，keepsthisclose，esotericfamilyapartfromneighbouringEnglishmen。NotevenaRedIndianseemsmoreforeigninmyeyes。Thisisoneofthelessonsoftravel-thatsomeofthestrangestracesdwellnextdoortoyouathome。 TherestwereallAmericanborn，buttheycamefromalmosteveryquarterofthatContinent。AlltheStatesoftheNorthhadsentoutafugitivetocrosstheplainswithme。FromVirginia，fromPennsylvania，fromNewYork，fromfarwesternIowaandKansas，fromMaimethatbordersontheCanadas，andfromtheCanadasthemselves-someoneortwowerefleeinginquestofabetterlandandbetterwages。Thetalkinthetrain，likethetalkIheardonthesteamer，ranuponhardtimes，shortcommons，andhopethatmoveseverwestward。IthoughtofmyshipfulfromGreatBritainwithafeelingofdespair。Theyhadcome3000miles，andyetnotfarenough。HardtimesbowedthemoutoftheClyde，andstoodtowelcomethematSandyHook。Whereweretheytogo？Pennsylvania，Maine，Iowa，Kansas？Thesewerenotplacesforimmigration，butforemigration，itappeared；notoneofthem，butIknewamanwhohadlifteduphisheelandleftitforanungratefulcountry。Anditwasstillwestwardthattheyran。Hunger，youwouldhavethought，cameoutoftheeastlikethesun，andtheeveningwasmadeofediblegold。And，meantime，inthecarinfrontofme，weretherenothalfahundredemigrantsfromtheoppositequarter？ HungryEuropeandhungryChina，eachpouringfromtheirgatesinsearchofprovender，hadherecomefacetoface。Thetwowaveshadmet；eastandwesthadalikefailed；thewholeroundworldhadbeenprospectedandcondemned；therewasnoElDoradoanywhere；andtillonecouldemigratetothemoon，itseemedaswelltostaypatientlyathome。Norwastherewantinganothersign，atoncemorepicturesqueandmoredisheartening；for，aswecontinuedtosteamwestwardtowardthelandofgold，wewerecontinuallypassingotheremigranttrainsuponthejourneyeast；andthesewereascrowdedasourown。Hadallthesereturnvoyagersmadeafortuneinthemines？WeretheyallboundforParis，andtobeinRomebyEaster？ Itwouldseemnot，for，wheneverwemetthem，thepassengersranontheplatformandcriedtousthroughthewindows，inakindofwailingchorus，to\"comeback。\"OntheplainsofNebraska，inthemountainsofWyoming，itwasstillthesamecry，anddismaltomyheart，\"Comeback!\"Thatwaswhatweheardbytheway\"aboutthegoodcountryweweregoingto。\"AndatthatveryhourtheSand-lotofSanFranciscowascrowdedwiththeunemployed，andtheechofromtheothersideofMarketStreetwasrepeatingtherantofdemagogues。 If，intruth，itwereonlyforthesakeofwagesthatmenemigrate，howmanythousandswouldregretthebargain!Butwages，indeed，areonlyoneconsiderationoutofmany；forwearearaceofgipsies，andlovechangeandtravelforthemselves。 DESPISEDRACES Ofallstupidill-feelings，thesentimentofmyfellowCaucasianstowardsourcompanionsintheChinesecarwasthemoststupidandtheworst。Theyseemednevertohavelookedatthem，listenedtothem，orthoughtofthem，buthatedthemAPRIORI。TheMongolsweretheirenemiesinthatcruelandtreacherousbattle-fieldofmoney。Theycouldworkbetterandcheaperinhalfahundredindustries，andhencetherewasnocalumnytooidlefortheCaucasianstorepeat，andeventobelieve。Theydeclaredthemhideousvermin，andaffectedakindofchokinginthethroatwhentheybeheldthem。Now，asamatteroffact，theyoungChinesemanissolikealargeclassofEuropeanwomen，thatonraisingmyheadandsuddenlycatchingsightofoneataconsiderabledistance，I haveforaninstantbeendeceivedbytheresemblance。Idonotsayitisthemostattractiveclassofourwomen，butforallthatmanyaman\'swifeislesspleasantlyfavoured。Again，myemigrantsdeclaredthattheChineseweredirty。Icannotsaytheywereclean，forthatwasimpossibleuponthejourney；butintheireffortsaftercleanlinesstheyputtherestofustoshame。Weallpiggedandstewedinoneinfamy，wetourhandsandfacesforhalfaminutedailyontheplatform，andwereunashamed。ButtheChineseneverlostanopportunity，andyouwouldseethemwashingtheirfeet-anactnotdreamedofamongourselves-andgoingasfarasdecencypermittedtowashtheirwholebodies。Imayremarkbythewaythatthedirtierpeopleareintheirpersonsthemoredelicateistheirsenseofmodesty。Acleanmanstripsinacrowdedboathouse；buthewhoisunwashedslinksinandoutofbedwithoutuncoveringaninchofskin。Lastly，theseveryfoulandmalodorousCaucasiansentertainedthesurprisingillusionthatitwastheChinesewaggon，andthatalone，whichstank。Ihavesaidalreadythatitwastheexceptionsandnotablythefreshestofthethree。 ThesejudgmentsaretypicalofthefeelinginallWesternAmerica。 TheChineseareconsideredstupid，becausetheyareimperfectlyacquaintedwithEnglish。Theyareheldtobebase，becausetheirdexterityandfrugalityenablethemtounderbidthelazy，luxuriousCaucasian。Theyaresaidtobethieves；Iamsuretheyhavenomonopolyofthat。Theyarecalledcruel；theAnglo-SaxonandthecheerfulIrishmanmayeachreflectbeforehebearstheaccusation。 Iamtold，again，thattheyareoftheraceofriverpirates，andbelongtothemostdespisedanddangerousclassintheCelestialEmpire。Butifthisbeso，whatremarkablepirateshavewehere! andwhatmustbethevirtues，theindustry，theeducation，andtheintelligenceoftheirsuperiorsathome! AwhileagoitwastheIrish，nowitistheChinesethatmustgo。 Suchisthecry。Itseems，afterall，thatnocountryisboundtosubmittoimmigrationanymorethantoinvasion；eachiswartotheknife，andresistancetoeitherbutlegitimatedefence。Yetwemayregretthefreetraditionoftherepublic，whichlovedtodepictherselfwithopenarms，welcomingallunfortunates。Andcertainly，asamanwhobelievesthathelovesfreedom，ImaybeexcusedsomebitternesswhenIfindhersacrednamemisusedinthecontention。 ItwasbuttheotherdaythatIheardavulgarfellowintheSand- lot，thepopulartribuneofSanFrancisco，roaringforarmsandbutchery。\"AtthecallofAbrahamLincoln，\"saidtheorator，\"yeroseinthenameoffreedomtosetfreethenegroes；canyenotriseandliberateyourselvesfromafewdirtyMongolians？\" Formyownpart，IcouldnotlookbutwithwonderandrespectontheChinese。Theirforefatherswatchedthestarsbeforeminehadbeguntokeeppigs。Gun-powderandprinting，whichtheotherdayweimitated，andaschoolofmannerswhichweneverhadthedelicacysomuchastodesiretoimitate，weretheirsinalong- pastantiquity。Theywalktheearthwithus，butitseemstheymustbeofdifferentclay。Theyheartheclockstrikethesamehour，yetsurelyofadifferentepoch。Theytravelbysteamconveyance，yetwithsuchabaggageofoldAsiaticthoughtsandsuperstitionsasmightcheckthelocomotiveinitscourse。 WhateveristhoughtwithinthecircuitoftheGreatWall；whatthewry-eyed，spectacledschoolmasterteachesinthehamletsroundPekin；religionssooldthatourlanguagelooksahalfingboyalongside；philosophysowisethatourbestphilosophersfindthingsthereintowonderat；allthistravelledalongsideofmeforthousandsofmilesoverplainandmountain。Heavenknowsifwehadonecommonthoughtorfancyallthatway，orwhetheroureyes，whichyetwereformeduponthesamedesign，beheldthesameworldoutoftherailwaywindows。Andwheneitherofusturnedhisthoughtstohomeandchildhood，whatastrangedissimilaritymusttherenothavebeeninthesepicturesofthemind-whenIbeheldthatold，gray，castledcity，highthronedabovethefirth，withtheflagofBritainflying，andthered-coatsentrypacingoverall；andthemaninthenextcartomewouldconjureupsomejunksandapagodaandafortofporcelain，andcallit，withthesameaffection，home。 Anotherracesharedamongmyfellow-passengersinthedisfavouroftheChinese；andthat，itishardlynecessarytosay，wasthenobleredmanofoldstory-overwhoseownhereditarycontinentwehadbeensteamingallthesedays。IsawnowildorindependentIndian； indeed，Ihearthatsuchavoidtheneighbourhoodofthetrain；butnowandagainatwaystations，ahusbandandwifeandafewchildren，disgracefullydressedoutwiththesweepingsofcivilisation，cameforthandstaredupontheemigrants。Thesilentstoicismoftheirconduct，andthepatheticdegradationoftheirappearance，wouldhavetouchedanythinkingcreature，butmyfellow-passengersdancedandjestedroundthemwithatrulyCockneybaseness。Iwasashamedforthethingwecallcivilisation。Weshouldcarryuponourconsciencessomuch，atleast，ofourforefathers\'misconductaswecontinuetoprofitbyourselves。 Ifoppressiondrivesawisemanmad，whatshouldberagingintheheartsofthesepoortribes，whohavebeendrivenbackandback，stepafterstep，theirpromisedreservationstornfromthemoneafteranotherastheStatesextendedwestward，untilatlengththeyareshutupintothesehideousmountaindesertsofthecentre-andeventherefindthemselvesinvaded，insulted，andhuntedoutbyruffianlydiggers？TheevictionoftheCherokees(tonamebutaninstance)，theextortionofIndianagents，theoutragesofthewicked，theill-faithofall，nay，downtotheridiculeofsuchpoorbeingsaswereherewithmeuponthetrain，makeupachapterofinjusticeandindignitysuchasamanmustbeinsomewaysbaseifhisheartwillsufferhimtopardonorforget。Theseold，well- founded，historicalhatredshaveasavourofnobilityfortheindependent。ThattheJewshouldnotlovetheChristian，northeIrishmanlovetheEnglish，northeIndianbravetoleratethethoughtoftheAmerican，isnotdisgracefultothenatureofman； rather，indeed，honourable，sinceitdependsonwrongsancientliketherace，andnotpersonaltohimwhocherishestheindignation。 TOTHEGOLDENGATES