ThatRichardlostnotimeinmakingfriendsatOxfordas，indeed，heneverfailedtodowhereverhewent，thefollowingletterstohismotherwouldseemtoshow:
OXFORD——May，1892。
DEARFAMILY:
IcamedownhereonSaturdaymorningwiththePeels，whogaveanenormousboatingpartyandluncheononatinylittleisland。Thedaywasbeautifulwithawarmbrilliantsun，andtheriverwasjustasnarrowandprettyastheheadoftheSquanriver，andwitholdwallsandcollegebuildingsadded。
WehadtheprettiestMrs。PeelinourboatandMrs。JosephChamberlain，whowasMissEndicottandwhoisverysweetandpretty。Weracedtheotherpuntsandrowboatsandsoon，aftermuchsplashingandexertion，reachedtheheadoftheriver。
Thenwewentto，teainNewCollegeandtoseethesightsofthedifferentcollegesnowontheThames。Thebargesofthecolleges，painteddifferentcolorsandgildedlikecircusband-wagonsanddecoratedwithcoatsofarmsandflyinggreatflags，linedtheoneshoreforaquarterofamileandwerecoveredbygirlsinprettyfrocksandunder-gradsinblazers。
Thentheboatscameintosightoneafteranotherwiththemenrunningalongsideonthetowpath。Thiswasoneofthemostremarkablesightsofthecountrysofar。Therewereoversixhundredmencomingsixabreast，fallingandstumblingandpushing，shoutingandfiringpistols。Itsoundedlikeacavalrychargeandthelineseemedendless。Thewholethingwasmosttheatricalandeffective。ThenwewenttotheannualdinnerofthePalmerstonClub，whereImadeaspeechwhichwas，asthereisnooneelsetotellyou，wellreceived，\"beingfrequentlyinterruptedwithapplause，\"fromboththedinersandtheladiesinthegallery。ItwasaboutFreeTradeandthewayAmericawasmisrepresentedintheEnglishpapers，andcomposedoffunnystorieswhichhadnothingtodowiththespeech。I
didnotknowIwasgoingtospeakuntilIgotthere，andconsideringthefact，asWilsonsays，thatyourunclewasplayingonastrangetablewithacrookedcuehedidverywell。ThenextmorningwebreakfastedwiththeBursarofTrinityandhadluncheonwiththeViscountSt。CyrestomeetLordandLadyColeridge。St。Cyresisveryshyandwell-bred，andwewouldhavehadagoodtimehadnottheM。P。\'spresentbeenfilledwithaweoftheLordChiefJusticeandfailedtodrawhimout。
Asitwashetoldsomeveryfunnystories；thenwewenttoteawithHubertHoward，inwhoseroomsIliveandamnowwriting，andmetsomestupidEnglishwomenandshygirls。ThenwedinedwiththedonsatNewCollege，so——calledbecauseitiseighthundredyearsold。Wesatatahightableinabighallhungwithpicturesandlitbycandles。Theunder-gradssatbeneathingownsandrattledpewtermugs。Weallworeeveningdressandthosethathadthemredandwhitefurcollars。
Afterdinnerwelefttheroomaccordingtosomeprocessofselection，carryingournapkinswithus。WeenteredaroomcalledtheCommons，wherewedrankwinesandatenutsandraisins。Itwasallverysolemnanddullandverydignified。
Outsideitwasquitelightalthoughnineo\'clock。Thenwemarchedtoanotherroomwheretherewerecigarsandbrandyandsoda，butArthurPollenandIhadtogoandtakecoffeewiththeMasterofBalliol，theonlyindividualofwhomPollenstandsintheleastawe。Hewasadearoldmanwhosaid，\"O
yes，you\'refromIndia，\"andonmysaying\"No，fromAmerica\"；
hesaid，\"Oyes，it\'stheotherone。\"IfoundtheotheronewasanIndianprincessinacashmerecloakanddiamonds，wholookedsoproudandlovelyandbeautifulthatIwantedtotakeherouttooneoftheseatsinthequadrangleandletherweeponmyshoulder。HowshelivesamongthesecoldpeopleI
cannotunderstand。Wewerealltogotoaconcertinthechapel，andhalfofthepartystartedoff，buttheMaster\'swifesaid，\"Oh，IamsuretheMasterexpectsthemtowaitforhiminthehall。Itisalwaysdone。\"Atwhichallthewomenmadeflutteringremarksofsympathyandthemenracedofftobringtheothersback。OnlytheIndiangirlandIremainedundisturbedandpuzzled。Thepartycameback，buttheMastersawthemandsaid，\"Well，itdoesnotmatter，butitisgenerallydone。\"Atwhichweallfeltguilty。WhenwegottothechapeleverybodystoodupuntiltheMaster\'spartysatdown，butasitwasbrokeninthemiddleoftheprocession，theysatdown，andthen，seeingwehadnotallpassed，gotupagain，sothatIfeltlikesaying，\"Asyouwere，men，\"astheydooutWestinthebarracks。ThenLordColeridgeintakingoffhisovercoattookoffhisundercoat，too，andstoodunconsciousofthefactbeforethewholeofOxford。Thefacesoftheaudiencewhichpackedtheplaceweresomethingwonderfultosee；theirdesiretolaughatatall，red-facedmanwholookslikeabucolicBillNyestrugglingintohiscoat，andthenhorroratseeingtheChiefJusticeinhisshirt-sleeves，wasaterribleeffort——andnoonewouldhelphim，ontheprinciple，Isuppose，thattheQueenofSpainhasnolegs。
HewouldhavebeenstrugglingyetifIhadnot，afterwatchinghimandLadyColeridgestrugglingwithhim，forafullminute，takenhiscoatandfirmlypulledtheoldgentlemanintoit，atwhichheturnedhisheadandwinked。
IwillgobacktotownbythefirsttoseetheDerbyandwillgetintolodgingsthere。IAMHAVINGAVERYGOODTIMEANDAM
VERYWELL。Theplaceisasbeautifulasoneexpectsandyetallthetimestartlingonewithitsbeauty。
DICK。
WhentheseasonatOxfordwasoverRichardreturnedtoLondonandtookabigsunnysuiteofroomsintheAlbany。HerehesettleddowntolearnallhecouldofLondon，itswaysanditspeople。InNewYorkhehadalreadymetanumberofEnglishmenandwomendistinguishedinvariouswalksoflife，andwiththeseasanucleushesoonextendedhiscircleoffriendsuntilitbecameaslargeasitwasvaried。Inhisyouth，andindeedthroughouthislife，RichardhadthegreatestaffectionforEnglandandtheEnglish。NotruerAmericaneverlived，buthethoughttheUnitedStatesandGreatBritainwereboundbytiesthatmustendurealways。HeadmiredBritishhabits，theircosmopolitanismandtheverysimplicityoftheirmodeofliving。Helovedtheircountrylife，andtheswirlofLondonneverfailedtothrillhim。DuringthelasthalfofhislifeRichardhadperhapsasmanyintimatefriendsinLondonasinNewYork。Hisfreshpointofview，hisveryeagernesstounderstandtheirs，madethemwelcomehimmoreasoneoftheirownpeoplethanasastranger。
LONDON，June3，1892。
DEARFAMILY:
IwentouttotheDerbyonWednesdayandthinkitisthemostinterestingthingIeversawoverhere。ItisSOlikethesepeoplenevertohaveseenit。ItseemstobechieflycomposedofcostermongersandAmericans。Igotabox-seatonapubliccoachandwentoutatten。Werodeforthreehoursinaprocessionofdonkeyshays，omnibuses，coaches，carriages，vans，advertisingwagons；everysortofconveyancestretchingforsixteenmiles，andwithpeopleliningthesidestolookon。IspentmytimewhenIgottherewanderingaroundoverthegrounds，whichwerelikeBarnum\'scircusmultipliedbythousands。Itwasabeautifuldayandquitethemostremarkablesightofmylife。MuchmorewonderfulthanJohnstown，soyouseeitmusthaveimpressedme。Wewerefivehoursgettingback，thepeoplesingingallthewayandpeltingoneanotherandsayingfunnyimpudentthings。
Myroomsaresomethinggorgeous。Theyareonthefirstfloor，lookingintoPiccadillyfromacourt，andtheyarefilledwithHogarth\'sprints，oldsilver，blueandwhitechina，Zuluweaponsandfurrugs，andeasychairsofIndiasilk。Youneversawsuchrooms!Andaverygoodservant，whocooksandvaletsmeandrunserrandsandtakessuchgoodcareofmethatlastnightCustandBalfourcalledatonetogetsomesupperandhewouldnotletthemin。ThinkofhavingtheLeaderoftheHouseofCommonscometoaskyouforfoodandhavinghimsentaway。Burdett-Couttsheardofmybeinghereinthepapersandwrotemetodinewithhimtonight。IlunchedwiththeTennantstoday；norelationtoMrs。Stanley，anditwasinformalandfunnyrather。TheEarlofSpenderwasthereandLordPembrokeandalotofwomen。Theygotupandwalkedaboutandchangedplacesandseemedtoknowoneanotherbetterthanwedoathome。IthinkIwillgodowntoOxfordforWhitsuntide，whichisaheatheninstitutionherewhichsendseveryoneawayjustasIwanttomeetthem。
Ihaven\'twrittenanythingyet。Ifindithardtodoso。I
thinkIwouldratherwaituntilIgethomeforthemostofit。
Chas。willbehereinlessthanaweeknowandwewillhaveagoodtime。Ihaveplanneditoutfordays。HemustgotoOxfordandmeetthoseboys，andthen，ifhewishes，ontoEastnor，whichIlearnsincemyreturnisoneoftheshowplacesofEngland。Iamenjoyingmyself，itisneedlesstosay，verymuch，andamwellandhappy。
DICK。
DuringthesefirstdaysinEnglandRichardspentmuchofhistimeatEastnor，LadyBrownlow\'splaceinLincolnshire，andoneofthemostbeautifulestatesinEngland。HarryCust，towhommybrotherfrequentlyrefersinhisletters，wasthenephewofLadyBrownlow，andagreatfriendofRichard\'s。AtthattimeCustwastheConservativenomineeforParliamentfromLincolnshire，andRichardtookamostactivepartinthecampaign。Happily，wewerebothatLadyBrownlow\'sduringitslastfewtensedays，aswellasonthedaythevoteswerecounted，andCustwaselectedbyanarrowmargin。OfourthrillingadventuresRichardafterwardwroteatgreatlengthin\"OurEnglishCousins。\"
LONDON，July6，1892。
DEARMOTHER:
OntheFourthofJuly，LadyBrownlowsentintotownandhadabigAmericanflagbroughtoutandplacedoverthehouse，whichwasagreatcompliment，asitwasseenandcommentedonformilesaround。CushingofBoston，averynicechapandawfullyhandsome，isthere，too。ThesamemorningIwentouttophotographthesoldiers，andLordWilliamFrederick，whoistheircolonel，chargedthemaftermewheneverIappeared。ItseemshehasasenseofhumorandlikedtheideaofmakinganAmericanrunontheFourthofJulyfromRed-coats。Idoubtifthefivehundredmenwhowerenotonhorsebackthoughtitasfunny。TheychasedmetillI
thoughtIwoulddie。TheConservativememberforthecountygotinlastnightandwerejoicedgreatly，asthemoraleffectwillhelpHarryCustgreatly。HiselectiontakesplacenextMonday。Themenwentintohearthevotedeclaredafterdinner，andsodidtwoofthegirls，whogotLadyBrownlow\'sconsentatdinner，andthendashedofftochangetheirgownsbeforeshecouldchangehermind。Aswewereintentonseeingthefunanddidn\'twantthem，wetookthemjustwherewewouldhavegoneanyway，whichwaswherethefightingwas。Andtheyshowedrealsportingbloodandsawtheotherrealsort。Therewerethreeofustoeachgirl，anditwasmostexciting，withstonesflyingandwindowscrashingandcheersandgroans。A
politicalmeetingorelectionathomeisanafternoonteatotheEnglishones。WhenwecamebackthesoldierswereleavingtheParktostoptherow，andasweflewpast，thetenantsrantothegateandcheeredfortheToryvictoryin\"goodoldlopes。\"Whenwegottothehousetheservantsrancheeringallovertheshopandrangthealarmbellandbuiltfires，andwehadasupperatone-fifteen。WhattheywilldoonthenightofCust\'selection，Icannotimagine——
burnthehousedownprobably。CushingandIenjoyitimmensely。Weknowthemwellenoughnowtobeasfunnyaswelikewithouthavingthemstare。Theyarenicewhenyouknowthem，butyou\'veGOTtoknowthemfirst。IhadagreatdinneratFarrar\'s。AlltheecclesiasticallightsofEnglandinknee-breecheswerethere，andtheAmericanMinisterandPhillipsBrooks。Itwasquitenovelandfun。Lotsoflove。
IhaveallthemoneyIwant。
DICK。
WithCustproperlyelected，RichardandIreturnedtotheAlbanyandsettleddowntoenjoyLondonfrommanyangles。
Althoughmybrotherhadbeentherebutafewweeks，hisacquaintancesamongthestatesmen，artists，socialcelebrities，andtheprominentactorsofthedaywasquiteasextraordinaryashisgeographicalandhistoricalknowledgeofthecity。Wegavemanyjollyparties，andonaccountofRichard\'squicklyacquiredpopularitywereconstantlybeinginvitedtodinners，dances，andlessformalbutmostamusingBohemiansupper-parties。Duringthesedaystherewaslittleopportunityformybrothertodomuchwriting，buthewasverybusymakingmentalnotesnotonlyforhiscomingbookontheEnglishpeople，butforanumberofshortstorieswhichhewroteafterwardinlessstrenuoustimes。WereturnedtoNewYorkinAugust，andRichardwenttoMariontorestfromhissocialactivities，andtoworkonhisEnglisharticles。
CHAPTERVI
THEMEDITERRANEANANDPARIS
Itwas，Ithink，theyearprevioustothisthatmymotherandfatherhaddesertedPointPleasantasaplacetospendtheirsummervacationsinfavorofMarion，onCapeCod，andRichardandI，asamatterofcourse，followedthemthere。AtthattimeMarionwasasimplelittlefishingvillagewhereafewverycharmingpeoplecameeverysummerandwherethefishingwasofthebest。Inallwaysthelifewasmostprimitive，andhappilycontinuedsoformanyyears。In，theseearlydaysGroverClevelandandhisbridehadacottagethere，andheandJosephJefferson，wholivedatBuzzard\'sBay，andmyfatherwentondailyfishingexcursions。RichardWatsonGilderwasoneoftheearliestsettlersofthesummercolony，andmanydistinguishedmembersoftheliteraryandkindredprofessionscametheretovisithim。Itwasaratherdrowsylifeforthosewhodidn\'tfish——agreatdealofsittingaboutonone\'sneighbor\'sporchanddiscussionofthelatestnovelorthenewestart，orofone\'ssoul，andspeculatingastowhatwouldprobablybecomeofit。FromthefirstRichardformedagreataffectionfortheplace，andafterhismarriageadopteditashiswinteraswellashissummerhome。Asaworkshophehadtworoomsinoneofthenatives\'cottages，andtwomorecharmingroomsitwouldbehardtoimagine。Thelittleshingledcottagewasliterallycoveredwithhoneysuckle，andinsidethereweretheoldwall-papers，theopenhearths，themahoganyfurniture，andthemanycharmingthingsthathadbeenthereforgenerations，andallofwhichhelpedtocontributetothequaintpeacefulatmosphereoftheplace。DanaGibsonhadacottagejustacrosstheroad，andaroundthecornerGouverneurMorrislivedwithhisfamily。AtthistimeneitherofthesefriendsofRichard，norRichardhimself，alliedthemselvesverycloselytotheliterarycolonyanditshighthoughts，butdevotedmostoftheirtimetosailingaboutSippicanHarbor，playingtennisandcontributinganoccasionalshortstoryoranillustrationtoapopularmagazine。Butafterthecolonyhadtakenflight，Richardoftenremainedlongintothefall，doingreallyseriousworkandagreatdealofit。Atsuchtimeshehadtodependonafewfriendswhocametovisithim，butprincipallyonthenativestomanyofwhomhewasgreatlyattached。Itwasduringthesedaysthathefirstmethisfuturewife，CecilClark，whosefather，JohnM。ClarkofChicago，wasoneoftheearliestofthesummercoloniststobuildhisownhomeatMarion。Amostcharmingandhospitablehomeitwas，anditwasinthissamehousewherewehadallspentsomanyhappyhoursthatRichardwasmarriedandspenthishoneymoon，andforseveralyearsmadehispermanenthome。OfthelifeofMarionduringthislaterperiod，hebecameanintegralpart，andperformedhisdutiesasoneofitsleadingcitizenswithmuchcredittothetownanditspeople。ForMarionRichardalwaysretainedagreataffection，fortherehehadplayedandworkedmanyofhisbestyears。Hehadlearnedtoloveeverythingofwhichthequaintoldtownwaspossessed，animateandinanimate，andhadIneededanyfurtherproofofhowdeeplythegoodpeopleofMarionlovedRichard，thelettersI
receivedfrommanyofthematthetimeofhisdeathwouldshow。
Intheearlyfallof1892RichardreturnedtohiseditorialworkonHarper\'sWeekly，andoneofthefirstassignmentshegavewastodespatchhimselftoChicagotoreporttheDedicationExercisesoftheWorld\'sFair。Thatthetripatleaststartedoutlittletomybrother\'slikingthefollowingseemstoshow。However，Richard\'smoodsfrequentlychangedwiththehour，anditismorethanpossiblethatbeforetheletterwassenthewasenjoyinghimselfhugelyandregardingChicagowithhisusualkindlyeyes。
ChicagoClub，DEARFAMILY:October2，1892。
ThoughlosttosightIamstillthinkingofyousadly。ItseemsthatItookacoupeafterleavingyouandafterlivinginitforafewyearsIgrewtiredandgotoutontheprairieandwalkedalongdrinkinginthepureairfromthelakesandreadingLiebig\'sandCooper\'sadvs。AfterabrisktenmilewalkIreenteredmycoupeandweintimedrewupbeforealargehotelinhabitedbyaclerkandaregularboarder。Iamontheseventhfloorwithoutabathroomorelectricbutton——I
merelymaderemarksandthenreturnedtotowninarailroadtrainwhichrunsconvenientlynear。AftergainingcivilizationImademywaythroughseveralparadesoritmayhavebeenthesameonetothereviewingstand。MyprogresswasmarkedbymockingremarksbythepolicewhoaskedofeachothertogetontomycoatandonseveraloccasionsIwasmistakenbyacrowdofsomethousandpeoplefortheP——eofW——s，andtumultuouslycheered。AtlastIfoundaninspectorofpoliceonhorseback，whoagreedtogetmetothestandifittookaleg。Heaccordinglychargedabout300womenandclubbedeightmen——Icountedthem——andfinallygotmein。Hewasverydrunkbuthewasverygoodtome。
OncebackfromChicagoRicharddividedhistimebetweenhisdeskatFranklinSquare，hisroomsonTwenty-eighthStreet，andinquicklypickingupthefriendshipsandthesocialactivitieshistriptoEnglandhadtemporarilybrokenoff。
MuchashenowlovedLondon，hewasstillanenthusiasticNewYorker，andtheamountofworkandplayheaccomplishedwasquiteextraordinary。Indeeditisdifficulttounderstandwherehefoundthetimetodosomuch。InadditiontohisworkonHarper\'shewrotemanyshortstoriesandspecialarticles，notonlybecausehelovedthemerewritingofthem，butbecausehehadcometosogreatlyenjoythethingshecouldbuywiththemoneyhislaborsnowbroughthim。Hispleasureshadincreasedassteadilyasthepriceshecouldnowcommandforhisstories，andinlookingbackonthosedaysitisratherremarkablewhenoneconsidershisage，thetemptationsthatsurroundedhim，andhisextraordinarycapacityforenjoyment，thatheneverseemstohaveforgottenthebalancebetweenworkandplay，andstucktobothwithanunswervingandunceasingenthusiasm。However，afterfourmonthsofNewYork，hedecideditwashightimeforhimtobeoffagain，andhearrangedwiththeHarperstospendthelatewinterandthespringincollectingmaterialforthetwosetsofarticleswhichafterwardappearedinbookformunderthetitlesof\"TheRulersoftheMediterranean\"and\"AboutParis。\"
HesetsailforGibraltartheearlypartofFebruary，1893，andthefollowinglettersdescribehisleisurelyprogressabouttheMediterraneanports。
NEWYORK，February3，1893。
DEARESTMOTHER:
Thisisalittlepresentforyouandagoodby。Yourpacking-caseiswhatIneedandwhatIshallwant，andIloveitbecauseyoumadeit。ButasYOUsay，weunderstandanddonothavetowriteloveletters；youhavegivenmeallthatisworthwhileinme，andIloveyousothatIlookforwardalreadyovermilesandmilesanddaysandmonths，andjustseeussittingtogetheratMarionandtellingeachotherhowgooditistobetogetheragainandholdingeachother\'shands。I
don\'tbelieveyoureallyknowhowHAPPYIaminlovingyou，dear，andinhavingyousaynicethingsaboutme。Godblessyou，dearest，andmayIneverdoanythingtomakeyoufeellessproudofyourwickedson。
DICK。
OffGibraltar，DEARMOTHER:February12，1893。
TodayisSunday。WearriveatGibraltaratfivetomorrowmorningandtheboatliesthereuntilnineo\'clock。Unlesswarandpestilencehavebrokenoutinotherplaces，IshallgoovertoTangiersinadayortwo，andfromtherecontinueonmyjourneyasmappedoutwhenIleft。IhavehadamostdelightfultripandthemostenjoyableIhaveevertakenbysea。Thesesmallboatsareasdifferentfromthebigtwin-screwsteamersasaflatfromaBroadwayhotel。
Everyonegetstoknoweverythingabouteveryoneelse，andithasbeenmorelikeayachtthanapassengersteamer。WhenI
firstcameonboardIthoughtIwouldnotfindinanynewoldcountryIwasabouttovisitanythingmoreforeignthanthepeople，andIwasright，buttheyaremostamusingandIhavelearnedagreatdeal。TheyaredifferentfromanypeopleI
know，andaretheAmericansweweretalkingabout。TheonesofwhomIusedtoreadinTheAtlanticandBlackwood\'s，astravelingalwaysandsinkingoutofsightwhenevertheyreachedhome。They，withtheexceptionofaBostoncouple，knownoneofmyfriendsormyhaunts，andIhavelearnedagreatdealinmeetingthem。IthasbeenmostBROADENINGandthechangehasbeenSUCHarest。IhadnoideaofhowtiredIwasoftalkingaboutthetheaterofArtsandLettersandMissWhitney\'sdebutandmySoul。Thesepeoplearesimpleandunimaginativeandbourgeoistoadegreeandaskind-heartedandapparentasanimalalphabets。IdonotthinkIhavehadsuchacompletechangeorrestinyears，andIamsureIhavenotlaughedsomuchforaslong。Ofcourse，theideaofasixmonths\'holidayisenoughtomakeanyonelaughatanything，butIfindthatbesidesthatIwasagooddealharassedandrundown，andIamgladtocutofffromeverythingandstartfresh。Ifeelmiserablyselfishaboutitallthetime。
TheseGermansruneverythingasthoughyouweretheowneroftheline。ThedisciplineislikethatoftheGermanArmyorofaman-of-war，everythingmovesbythestrokeofabell，andtheyhavehaddancesandspeechesandconcertsandreligiousservicesandlectureseveryotherminute。IntoalloftheseI
havegonewithmuchenthusiasm。Wehaveatthecaptain\'stableDr。Field，theeditorofTheEvangelist，JohnRussell，aBostonDemocrat，whowasinCongressandwhohasbeeninpubliclifeforoverfortyyears。ATammanysachem，wholookslikeandworshipsTweed，andwhosayswhatI
neverheardanAmericanoffthestagesay:\"That\'sme。
That\'swhatIdo，\"hesays。\"WhenIhaveinsomnia，Idon\'tbelieveinyoursleepingdraughts。IgetupandgoroundtoJakeStewart\'sonFourteenthStreetandeatafryoraporterhousesteakandthenIsleepgood——that\'sme。\"ThereisalsoalivelyladyfromAlbanynexttomeandherhusband，whotellsanecdotesofthewarjustasthoughithadhappenedyesterday。Indeed，theyareallsomucholderthanIthatalltheirtalkisaboutthingsIneverunderstoodthetruthabout，anditismostinteresting。IreallydonotknowwhenIhaveenjoyedmymealtimesomuch。Thefoodisverygood，althoughqueerandGerman，andwegenerallytaketwohourstoeachsitting。Dr。FieldismyespecialpreyandhemakesmelaughuntilIcry。HeisjustlikeJamesLewisin\"ANightOff，\"
andisalwaysrubbinghishandsandsmackinghislipsoverhisowndaringexploits。Itwisteverythinghesaysintomeaningsomethingdreadful，andheisinstantlyexplaininghedidnotreallyseeabullfight，butthathewalkedaroundtheoutsideofthebuilding。IhavepromisedtoshowhimlifewithacapitalL，andheisafraidasdeathofme。Buthegotbackatmegrandlylastnightwhenhepresentedatestimonialtothecaptain，andreferredtothecaptain\'swifeandboywhomheisgoingtoseeafteratwoyears\'absence，atwhichthecaptainweptandeverybodyelsewept。AndField，seeinghehadmadeapoint，wavedhisarmsandcried，\"Ihaveneverknownamanwhoamountedtoanythingwhohadnotagoodwifetocarefor——exceptYOU——\"heshouted，pointingatme，\"andnowomanwilleversaveYOU。\"Atwhichthepassengers，whofullyappreciatedhowIhadbeenworryinghim，applaudedloudly，andtheDoctorinhisdelightathavingscoredonmeforgottogivethecaptainhistestimonial。
TherearetwonicegirlsonboardfromChicagoandaqueerSoutherngirlwhopaintspicturesandsingsandwritespoetry，andwhoistravelingwithanoddmarriedwomanwhoisaninvalidandwholikeeveryoneelseonboardhasapparentlyspentallherlifeawayfromhome。IhavespentmyoddtimeinwritingthestoryItoldDadthenightbeforeIsailedandIthinkitinsomewaysthebest，quitethebest，Ihavewritten。Ireadittothequeergirlandherqueerchaperonandtheyweepwhenevertheyspeakofit，whichtheydoeveryhalfhour。Allthepassengersapparentlylaidinastockof\"Gallegher\"and\"TheWest\"beforestarting，andyoungwomeninyachtingcapsareconstantlyholdingmeupforautographsandfavoritequotations。YesterdaywepassedtheAzoresnearenoughtoseethewindowsinthehouses，andwehaveseenotherislandsatdifferenttimes，whichisquiterefreshing。
TomorrowIshallpostthisandthetripwillbeover。Ithasbeenamosthappystart。Iamnotgoingtowritelettersoften，butamgoingheadoverearsintothisnewlifeandlettheoldonewaitawhile。YoucannothandleAfricaandkeepupyourfencesinNewYorkatthesametime。IamnowgoingouttotalktotheBostoncouple，ortoproposealionhunttoDr。
Field。
SinceIwrotethatlastIhaveseenPortugal。ItmademeseemsuddenlyveryfarawayfromNewYork。Portugalisahighhillwithawhitewatchtoweronitflyingsignalflags。Itisapparentlyinhabitedbyonemanwholivesinalongrowofyellowhouseswithredroofs，andpopulatedbysheepwhodograndactsofbalancingonthesideofthehill。ThereisalsoaNavyofabrownboatwithaleg-of-muttonsailandacrewofthreemenintheboat——nottospeakofthedog。Itisagreatthingtohaveatraveledson。NoneofyoueversawPortugal，yah!
IamnowinGibraltar。Itisalargeplaceandtheredoesnotseemtoberoominthisletter，inwhichtoexpressmyfeelingsaboutMoorsinbarelegsandsixthousandRed-coatsandtohearEnglishmenspeakagain。WhenIwokeupGibraltarwasablacksilhouetteagainstthesky，buttowardthesouththerewasalowlineofmountainswitharedskybehindthem，dimandmysteriousandold，andthatwasAfrica。ThenSpainturnedupallamethystandgreen，andtheMediterraneanasblueastheytellyouitis。Theywouldn\'tletmetakemygunintoGibraltar。
Theyknowmyreputationforwar。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR。
February14th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
TheluckoftheBritishArmywhichIammodestlyfondofcomparingwithmyowntookavacationyesterdayassoonasI
hadsetfootonland。InthefirstplaceEgypthadsettleddowntohersluggishNilelikecalmandcholerahadquarantinedtheshipIwantedtotaketoAlgiers，shuttingoffAlgiersandwhatwasmoreimportantTunis。TheGovernorwasillshuttingoffthingsIwantedandhisadjutantwasboorishandproudandhaughty。ThenIdeterminedtogotoSpainbutfoundIhadarrivedjustonedaytoolateforthelastofthethreedaysoftheMardiGrasandtooearlyforbullfights。HadItakenSaavedra\'slettersIshouldhavegonetoMadridandmettheQueenandotherproudfolks。SoonthewholeIwasblue。
ButIhavenowdeterminedtotakeaboatforTangieratoncewhereIhaveletterstotheDukedeTnaswhoistheMasteroftheHoundsthereandagreatsportandtheysayitisveryamusingandexciting。InafortnightIshallgotoMalta。IcalledonHarryCust\'sbrotherandtoldhimwhoIwasandhetookmeinandputmeattheheadofthetableofyoungsubalternsingranduniformsandwehadmarmaladeandcoldbeefandbeerandIwashappytothevergeoftearstohearEnglishassheisspoke。
Thenwewenttoapicnicandtookteainasmuggler\'scaveandallthefoxterriersranoverthetableclothandtheCaptainspilthotwateroverhiswhiteflannelsandjumpedaroundononeleg。Afterwhichweplayedahandkerchiefgamesittinginarowandpeltingthegirlswithaknottedhandkerchiefandthenfightingforit——DuringoneofthesescrimmagesMulvaney，twoothersandLearoydcamebyandwitheyesfrontandhandsattheircapsmarchedonwithstolidcountenances，buttheirofficerswereembarrassed。ItishardtoreturnasalutewithyourfaceinthesandandastoutAmericansittingonyourneckandpullingyourfirstlieutenant\'sleg。Iamnowdeeplyengagedfordinnersanddancesandteasandridesandamfeelingverycheerfulagain。Iamalsoverywellthankyouandhavenoillnessesofanysort。Youtoldmetobesureandputthatin——Asyousee，Ihavecutouthalfofmytriptoavoidthecholera，soyouneednotworryaboutTHAT。
To-dayIamgoingovertherampartsasmuchastheywillallowandto-morrowIgotoTangierwhereIexpecttohavesomeboarhunting。IwouldsuggestyourgettingTheEvangelistinaweekortwoasDr。Field\'sletterscoverallIhaveseen。IdonottellyouanythingabouttheplacebecauseyouwillreadthatinthepapertotheH。W。butIcanassureyouthegirlsareveryprettyandbeinggarrisongirlsarenotasshyasthoseathomeinEngland。IamthefirstAmericantheyevermettheyassuremeeveryhourandwegetonverywellnotwithstanding。
YoucanimaginewhatitislikewhenSpaniards，MoorsandEnglishSoldiersareallcrowdedintoonelongstreetwithdonkeysandgeeseandpriestsandsmugglersandmeninpoloclothesandsoldiersinfootballsuitsandsailorsfromtheman-of-war。Ofcourse，theRockisthebeststoryofitall。
Itisafairgreensmilinghillnotafortressatall。NomoreafortresstolookatthanFairmontParkwaterworks，butthejokeofitisthatundereverybushthereisagunandeverygunispaintedgreenandcoveredwithhangingcurtainsofmossandeverypromenadeisunderminedandthebleakestfaceoftherockistunnelledwithroomsandhalls。Everynightwearelockedinandthesoldierscarrythebigironkeysclankingthroughthestreets。Itisgoingtomakeinterestingreading。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR。
DEARMOTHER:February23rd，1893。
AEneaswho\"rantheroundofsomanychances\"inthisneighborhoodwasastationarystayathometowhatIhavetodo。IfIevergetawayfromtheRockIshallbeatravellerofthegreatestpossibleexperience。
IcamehereintendingtostayaweekandtowritemyletteronGib。andonTangierquietlyandpeacefullylikeagentlemanandthentogoontoMalta。Ilovethisplaceandthereissomethingtodoandseeeveryminuteofthetimebutwhathappenedwasthis:Alltheboatsthateverleftherestoppedrunning，brokeshafts，orwentintoquarantineorjustsailedby，andunlessIwanttospendtwoweeksontheseainordertohaveoneatMalta，whichisonlyamilitarystationlikethis，Imustgooffto-morrowwithmyarticlesunwritten，myphotosundevelopedandmydinnercallsunpaid。IamnowwaitingtohearifIcangettoAlgiersbychangingtwicefromonesteamertoanotheralongthecoastofSpain。ItwillbeagreatnuisancebutIshallbeabletoseeAlgiersandTunisandMaltainthethreeweekswhichwouldhaveotherwisebeengiventoMaltaalone。AndTunisIamparticularlykeentosee。WhilewaitingforatelegramfromSpainabouttheboats，IshalltellyouwhatIhavebeendoing。EverybodywasgladtoseemeaftermyreturnfromTangier。IdinedwiththeGovernoronMonday，inafinelargeroomlinedwithportraitsofalltheoldcommandersandtheircoats-of-armslikealittleforestofflagsandtheGovernor\'sdaughterdancedaSpanishdanceforusafteritwasover。MissBuckle，Cust\'sfiancee，dancesalmostaswellasCarmencita，allthegirlsherelearnitasothergirlsdothepiano。OnTuesdayCustandMissB。andanothergirlandIwentoverintoSpaintoseethemeetandwehadashortrunafterafoxwhowenttoearth，muchtomyrelief，inaboutthreeminutesandbeforeIhadbeenthrownoff。TherearenofencesbutthegroundisonemassofrocksandcactusandravinesdownwhichtheseEnglishgowithaneasethatmakesmetremblewithadmiration。Wehadnotcomeouttofollow，sowe，beingquitesoakedthroughandveryhungry，wenttoaninnanditwassuchaninnasDonQuixoteusedtostopat，withthedining-roomoverthestableandalotofdrunkenmuleteersinthecourtandbeautifulyoungwomentowaitonus。ItisabeautifulcountrySpain，witheverysortofgreenyoueverdreamedof。Wehadomelettesandnativewineandblackbreadandgotwarmagainandthentrottedhomeintherainandgotwetagain，sowestoppedattheguardhouseontheoutsideoftherockandtookteawiththeofficerinchargeandweallgotdownonourkneesaroundhisfireandhehobbledarounddroppinghiseyeglassesinhishotwaterandverymuchhonoredandexceedinglyembarrassed。Iamusedmyselfbyputtingonalltheuniformshedidnothappentohaveonandtheyoungladiesdrankteaandthawed。ThisisthemostvariousplaceIevercameacross。YouhavemountainsandseashoreandallamandaslikeMonteCarlointheirtropicalbeautyandsoldiersdayandnightmarchinganddrillingandbangingbrassbandsandtennisandgunsfiringsoastorattleallthewindows，andpicnicsandteas。IamengagedwayaheadnowbutImustgetofftomorrow。OnWashington\'sbirthdayI
gavealuncheonbecauseitstruckmeasthemostinappropriateplaceinwhichonecouldcelebratethegoodman\'smemoryandtheGovernorwouldnotthinkofcomingatfirst，butItoldhimIwasnotaBritishsubjectandthatifIcouldgotohisdinnerhecouldcometomylunch，sothat，orthefactthatthebeautifulMissBucklewascomingdecidedhimtowaiveetiquetteandhecamewithhisA。D。C。andhisdaughterandofficersandgirlscameandIhadAmericanflagsandEnglishflagsandaportraitofWashingtonandoftheQueenandI
ransackedthemarketsforvioletsandbankedthemallupinthemiddle。Itwasfine。IturnedthehotelupsidedownandalltheservantsworetheirbestliveryandeverybodystoodupinarowandsalutedHisExcellencyandImadeaspeechandsodidhisExcellencyandthechefdidhimselfproud。Igotitupinonemorning。HelenBenedictcouldnothavedoneitbetter。
IhadafunnyadventurethemorningIleftTangier——TherewasagooddealoftalkaboutField(confoundhim)andmygettingintotheprisonandTheHeraldandTimescorrespondentswereratherblueaboutitandsomeoftheEnglishresidentssaidthatIhadnotbeenshownthewholeoftheprison，thattheworsthadbeenkeptfromus。
FieldwhoonlygotintotheprisonbecauseIhadworkedatittwodays，saidtherewasanadditionalwardIhadnotseen。Iwentbackintothiswhileheandtheguardweregettingthedooropentogooutandsawnothing，buttomakesurethattheprisonwasasIbelievedanabsolutesquare，Iwentbackonthemorningofmydepartureandclimbedawallandcrawledoverahousetopandphotographedthetopoftheprison。ThenahorribledoubtcametomethatthishouseuponwhichIwasstandingandwhichadjoinedtheprisonmightbetheadditionofwhichtheEnglishresidentshinted。TherewasanoldwomaninthegardenbelowjumpingupanddownandtowhomIhadbeenshyingmoneytokeepherquiet。IsenttheguidearoundtoaskherwhatwasthenatureofthebuildinguponwhichIhadtrespassedandwhichseemedtoworryhersomuch——HecamebacktotellmethatIwasonthetopofaharemandtheoldwomanthoughtI
wasgettingupaflirtationwiththegentleman\'swives。SoI
droppedbackagain。
ItwillbeacoupleofmonthsatleastbeforemyfirststorycomesoutinTheWeekly。IcannotjudgeofthembutIthinktheyareuptotheaverageoftheWesternstories，thematerialismuchricherIknow，butIamsomuchbesetbythenewsightsthatIhavenotthepatienceortheleisureIhadintheWest——Thenthereweredaysinwhichwritingwasarelief，nowthereissomuchtoseethatitseemsalmostashametowasteit。
BythegraceofProvidenceIcannotleavehereuntilthe28th，muchtomyjoyandIhavefoundoutthatIcandobetterbygoingdirecttoMaltaandthentoTunis，leavingAlgierswhichIdidnotwanttoseeoutofit-Hurrah。IshallnowreturntothecalmcontinuationofmystoryandtowritingnoteswhichChaswillenjoy。
DICK。
GIBRALTAR-February1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Moroccoasitisisaveryfineplacespoiledbycivilization。
Notnicecivilizationbutthedregsofit，thebrokendownnoblemenofSpainandcashieredcaptainsofEnglandandtheR——L——\'sofAmerica。Theyhuntandplaycricketandgambleanddonothingtomaintainwhatisbestintheplaceortohelpwhatisworst。IlovetheMoorsandthewaytheyhatetheChristianandthescornandpridetheyshow。TheyseemtocarryallthemysteryanddignityofAfricaandofforeignconquestsaboutthem，andtheyarewonderfullywellmadeandfinelookingandself-respecting。Thecolorisverybeautiful，buttheforeignelementspoilsitateveryturn。
OneshouldreallygoinlandbutIshallnotbecauseImeantodothatwhenIreachCairo。EverybodygoesinlandfromhereandBonsalhascovereditalready。Heisagreatmanhereamongallclasses。
IhaveboughttwolonggunsandthreepistolsthreefeetlongandaMoorishcostumeforafternoonteas。Ishalllookfine。
Myguide\'sideaofpleasingmeistokickeverybodyoutofthewaywhichalwaysbringsdowncursesonmesoIhavetogobackandgivethemmoneyandamsograduallybecomingpopularandmuchsoughtafterbyblindbeggars。Youcangetthreepoundsofcopperforafrancanditlastsalldaythrowingitrightandleftallthetime。ImadeagreattearinBonsal\'srecordtodaybyrefusingtopayasnakecharmerallhewantedandthenwhenheprotestedItookoneofthesnakesoutofhishandsandswungitaroundmyheadtothedelightofthepeople。IwantedtoshowhimhewasafakirtowantmetopayforwhatIwoulddomyself。Itwasalargesnakeaboutfourfeetlong。Thenmyhorseandanotherhorsegotfightingintheprincipalstreetinthecitystandingupontheirhindlegsandboxinglikemenandbitingandsquealing。ItwasawfulandIgotmineoutofthewayandwastrodonandhadmyarmnearlypulledoffandthecrowdapplaudedandaskedmyguidewhetherIwasAmericanorEnglish。TheydonotliketheEnglish。SowiththelowerclassesImaysaythatIamhavingasocialsuccess。
DICK。
OffMalta——March1，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Ihavebeenhavingadelightfulvoyagewithmoonlightallnightandsunlightallday。AfricakeptinsightmostofthetimeandbeforethatwesawbeautifulmountainsinSpaincoveredwithsnowandredinthesunset。TherewerealotofniceEnglishpeoplegoingouttoIndiatomeettheirhusbandsandwehave\"tiffin\"and\"choota\"and\"curry，\"soitreallyseemedoriental。ThethirdnightoutwesawAlgierssparklinglikeConeyIsland。IplaygameswithmyselfandpretendIamatmyroomsreadingastorywhichisveryhardtopretendasIneverreadinmyroomsandthenIlookupandexclaim\"Hello，I\'mnotinNewYork，that\'sAlgiers。\"Thethingthathasimpressedmemostishowabsolutelysmalltheworldisandhowchildishlyeasyitistogoaroundit。YouandNoraMUSTtakethistrip；asformeIthinkWillieChanleristhemostsensibleindividualIhaveyetmet。
AllthefascinationofKingSolomon\'sMinesseemstobebehindthosegreatmountainsandthisImayaddisabitofadvanceworkformother，anenteringwedgetomydisappearingfromsightforyearsandyearsintheCongo。Which，seriously，I
willnotdo；onlyitisdisappointingtofindtheearthsosmallandsoeasilyencompassedthatyouwanttogoonwhereitisolder，andnew。Theworstofitisthatitishardleavingallthenicepeopleyoumeetandthenmustsaygood-byeto。TheyoungladiesandCapt。BuckleandCustcamedowntoseemeoffandBucklebroughtmeaphotofourfeetlongofGib，anofficialonewhichIhadtosmuggleoutwithagreatshowofsecrecyandnowIshallbesorrytoleavethesepeople。JustasIwrotethatoneoftheofficersgoingouttojoinhisregimentcametothedoorandblushingsaidthepassengersweregettinguparoundrobinaskingmetostoponandgotoCairo。
Sincewritingtheabovelotsofthingshavehappened。IbidfarewelltoeveryoneatMaltaandyetinfourhoursIwasbackagainbagandbaggageandamnowonmywaytoCairo。TunisandtheBeyareimpossible。AssoonasIlandedatMaltaIfoundthatthoughIcouldgotoTunisIcouldnotgoawaywithoutbeingquarantinedfortendaysandifIremainedinMaltaImuststayaweek。OnbalancingaweekofEgyptagainstaweekofMaltaI
couldnotdoitsoIputbacktothissteameragainandhereI
am。TomorrowwereachBrindisiandwehavealreadypassedSicilyandhadaglimpseofthetoeofItalyanditisthecoldestsunnyItalythatIeverimagined。IambitterlydisappointedaboutTunis。IhavenoletterstobigpeopleinCairoonlysubalternsbutIshallprobablygetalong。Ialwaysmanagesomehowwithmy\"artfullittleIkeyways。\"Itwasmostgratifyingtomarkmyreturntothisboat。OneyoungwomandancedaKangaroodanceandtheCaptainweptandallthestewardsstoodinalineandgrinned。IsingChevalier\'ssongsandtheyallsitinthediningroombelowandforgettolayouttheplatesandlastnightsomeoftheRoyalBerkshirewithwhomIdinedatMaltacameonboardandafterhearingtheOldKentRoadwereonthepointofMutinyandrefusedtoreturntobarracks。GreatisthePowerofChevalierandgreatishispowerfortakingyoubacktoLondonwiththreeopeningbars。MaltawasthequeerestplaceIevergotinto。Itwaslikeacity，countryandislandmadeofcheese，mouldycheese，andfreshlimburgercheesewithholesinit。Yousailedrightuptothefrontdoorasitwereandpeoplewerehangingoutofthewindowssmokingpipesandlookingdownonthedeckascomplacentlyasthoughhavinganoceansteamerintheyardwasasmuchamatterofcourseasaperambulator。TherewerealsowomenwithblackhoodswhichtheywearasapenancebecauselongagotheladiesofMaltagotthemselvestalkedabout。IwasonshoreaboutfivehoursandsawsomeinterestingthingsandwiththatandBrindisiandthevoyageIcanmakeathirdletterbutTunisiswritonmyheartlikeCalais。
TodayClevelandisinauguratedandItookallthepassengersdownatthepropertimeandexplainedtothemthatatthatmomentagreatmanwasbeingmadepresidentandgavethemeachanAmericancocktailtorememberitbyandinwhichtotoasthimIamgettingtobeagreatspeechmakerandifthereareanymoreanniversariesinAmericaIshallbeasecondDepew。
Itislatebutitisstilltheseasonhereanditwillbegay，butwhatIwanttodonowistogooffonalittletripinlandalthoughCairoistheworstofallforitissurroundedbydesertsandnothingtoshootbutantelopeandfoxesandthoseISCORN。IwantZulusandlions。IshallbegreatlydisappointedifIdonothavesomethingtodooutsideofCairoforIhavehadnoadventuresatall。ItisjustascivilizedasCamdenonlymoreexcitingandbeautifulalthoughCamdenisexcitingwhenyouhavetogetthereandbackintimeforthelastedition。FromwhatIhavealreadyseenIamreadytospendamonthinCairoandthenconfesstoknowingnothingofit。Butweshallsee。TheremaybeaWARoralionhuntorsomethingyetifthereisnotIshallcomebackhereagain。I
mustfirethatWinchesteroffatleastoncejustforallthetroubleithasgivenmeatcustomhouses。SomethingexcitingmusthappenorIshalllosefaithintheluckoftheBritisharmywhichmarchesshouldertoshoulderwithmine。IfIdon\'thaveanyadventuresIshallwriteessaysonartafterthislikeMrs。Van。Loveandlotsofit。
DICK。
CAIRO，March11，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
Inafamousbookthislineoccurs，\"HedeterminedtogotothathotelinCairowheretheyweretohavespenttheirhoneymoon，\"orwordslikethat。Heisnowatthathotelandyoucanbuythefamousbookacrossthestreet。Itiscalled\"Gallegher。\"So——inthiswayeverythingcomestohimwhowaitsandhecomestoit。\"Gallegher\"isnottheonlythingyoubuyinEgypt。YouridetothePyramidsonabrakewithamaninawhitefelthatblowingahorn，andthebugleroftheArmyofOccupationisasmuchinevidenceasthepriestwhocallsthemtoprayerfromtheminaret。IleftthepeopleI
likedontheSulteylastThursdayintheSuezCanalandcameonhereinaspecialtrain。Itisverycoldhere，anditisnotaplacewherethecoldisinkeepingwiththesurroundings。
Youseepeopleinwhitehelmetsandastrakanovercoats。
Itisanimmensecityandintenselyinteresting，especiallythebazaars，butyoufeelsoignorantaboutitallthatitratherangersyou。IwishIwasnotsuchaverybadhandatlanguages。ThatisONETHINGIcannotdo，thatandride。I
needitverymuch，travelingsomuch，andIshallstudyveryhardwhileIaminParis。Ourconsul-generalhereisaveryyoungman，andheshowedmeaKansaspaperwhenIcalledonhim，whichsaidthatIwasintheEastandwouldprobablycallon\"Ed\"L。HeisveryciviltomeandgivesmehiscarriagesandoutriderswithgoldclothesandswordswheneverIwilltakethem。
Itissobeastlycoldherethatitspoilsalotofthings，andtherearealotofAmericanswhosay，\"Ihadnoideayouweresoyoungaman，\"andthat，afterbeingfiveyearsoldforamonthandplayingchildren\'sgameswithEnglishpeoplewhodidn\'tknoworcareanythingaboutyouexceptthatyoumadethemlaugh，israthertrying。Iamdisappointedsofarinthetripbecauseithasdevelopednothingnewbeyondthefactthatgoingaroundtheworldisofnomoreimportancethangoingtobreakfast，andIamselfishinmysightseeingandwanttoseethingsothersdonot。Andifyouevendoseemorethanthosewhoarenotsofortunateandwhohavetoremainathome，stillyouaresoignorantincomparisonwiththosewhohavelivedhereforyearsandtowhomthewholeofAfricaisaspeculationinlandorrailroads，itmakesyoufeellikesuchafakerandasifitwerebettertoturncorrespondentfortheN。Y。Herald，Parisedition，andsendbackthenamesofthosewhoarestayingatthehotels。Thatisreallyallyoucanspeakwithauthorityabout。WhenyouhaveGordonandStanleydishesonthebill-of-fare，youfeelashamedtosayyou\'vebeeninEgypt。Anyway，IamafakerandIdon\'tcare，andIprovedittodaybybeingphotographedonacamelinfrontofthePyramids，andifthatwasn\'timpertinenceIdonotknowitsname。IaccordinglywentandboughtalotofgolddressesforNoraasapenance。
Asamatteroffact，unlessIgetintotheinteriorforamonthandseesomethingnew，Ishallconsiderthetripafailure，exceptasamostamusingholidayforone，andthatwasnotexactlywhatIwantedorallIwanted。AfterthisI
shallgotobigcitiesonlyandstaythere。Everybodytravelsandeverybodyseesasmuchasyoudoandsaysnothingofit，certainlydoesnotpresumetowriteabookaboutit。Anyway，ithasbeengreatfun，soIshallputitdowntothatanddosomeseriousworktomakeupforit。I\'dratherhavewrittenagoodstoryabouttheInaugurationthanaboutCairo。
Iamwell，asusual，andhavingafineloaf，onlyIdon\'tthinkmuchofwhatIhavewritten——that\'sall。
DICK。
CAIRO，March19th，1893。
DEARMOTHER:
IwentupthePyramidsyesterdayandIamverysoretoday。Itsoundseasybecausesomanypeopledoit，buttheydoitbecausetheydon\'tknow。Ihavebeenputtingitoff，andputtingitoff，untilIfeltashamedtosuchadegreethatI
hadtogo。Littlehadneverbeeneither，sowewentouttogetherandmetStanfordWhiteandtheEmmettsthere，andweallwentup。IwouldrathergointoCentralAfricathandoitagain。Iamgettingfatandthat\'saboutit——andIhadtohalfpullamuchfattermanthanmyselfwhopretendedtohelpme。IfinallytoldthemI\'dgoaloneunlessthefatmanwentaway，sotheothertwodrovehimoff。Goingdownisworse。
