第2章

Ifoundmyselfstanding，whenagleamofconsciousnesscameuponme，holdingontosomething。Idon\'tknowwhat。Ithinkitwastheboatswain:oritmayhavebeenthepump:orpossiblythecow。 Ican\'tsayhowlongIhadbeenthere；whetheradayoraminute。 Irecollecttryingtothinkaboutsomething(aboutanythinginthewholewideworld，Iwasnotparticular)withoutthesmallesteffect。Icouldnotevenmakeoutwhichwasthesea，andwhichthesky，forthehorizonseemeddrunk，andwasflyingwildlyaboutinalldirections。Eveninthatincapablestate，however，I recognisedthelazygentlemanstandingbeforeme:nauticallycladinasuitofshaggyblue，withanoilskinhat。ButIwastooimbecile，althoughIknewittobehe，toseparatehimfromhisdress；andtriedtocallhim，Iremember，PILOT。Afteranotherintervaloftotalunconsciousness，Ifoundhehadgone，andrecognisedanotherfigureinitsplace。ItseemedtowaveandfluctuatebeforemeasthoughIsawitreflectedinanunsteadylooking-glass；butIknewitforthecaptain；andsuchwasthecheerfulinfluenceofhisface，thatItriedtosmile:yes，eventhenItriedtosmile。Isawbyhisgesturesthatheaddressedme； butitwasalongtimebeforeIcouldmakeoutthatheremonstratedagainstmystandinguptomykneesinwater-asIwas；ofcourseI don\'tknowwhy。Itriedtothankhim，butcouldn\'t。Icouldonlypointtomyboots-orwhereverIsupposedmybootstobe-andsayinaplaintivevoice，\'Corksoles:\'atthesametimeendeavouring，Iamtold，tositdowninthepool。FindingthatIwasquiteinsensible，andforthetimeamaniac，hehumanelyconductedmebelow。 ThereIremaineduntilIgotbetter:suffering，wheneverIwasrecommendedtoeatanything，anamountofanguishonlysecondtothatwhichissaidtobeenduredbytheapparentlydrowned，intheprocessofrestorationtolife。OnegentlemanonboardhadaletterofintroductiontomefromamutualfriendinLondon。Hesentitbelowwithhiscard，onthemorningofthehead-wind；andI waslongtroubledwiththeideathathemightbeup，andwell，andahundredtimesadayexpectingmetocalluponhiminthesaloon。 Iimaginedhimoneofthosecast-ironimages-Iwillnotcallthemmen-whoask，withredfaces，andlustyvoices，whatsea-sicknessmeans，andwhetheritreallyisasbadasitisrepresentedtobe。 Thiswasverytorturingindeed；andIdon\'tthinkIeverfeltsuchperfectgratificationandgratitudeofheart，asIdidwhenIheardfromtheship\'sdoctorthathehadbeenobligedtoputalargemustardpoulticeonthisverygentleman\'sstomach。Idatemyrecoveryfromthereceiptofthatintelligence。 Itwasmateriallyassistedthough，Ihavenodoubt，byaheavygaleofwind，whichcameslowlyupatsunset，whenwewereabouttendaysout，andragedwithgraduallyincreasingfuryuntilmorning，savingthatitlulledforanhouralittlebeforemidnight。Therewassomethingintheunnaturalreposeofthathour，andintheaftergatheringofthestorm，soinconceivablyawfulandtremendous，thatitsburstingintofullviolencewasalmostarelief。 ThelabouringoftheshipinthetroubledseaonthisnightIshallneverforget。\'Williteverbeworsethanthis？\'wasaquestionI hadoftenheardasked，wheneverythingwasslidingandbumpingabout，andwhenitcertainlydidseemdifficulttocomprehendthepossibilityofanythingafloatbeingmoredisturbed，withouttopplingoverandgoingdown。Butwhattheagitationofasteam- vesselis，onabadwinter\'snightinthewildAtlantic，itisimpossibleforthemostvividimaginationtoconceive。Tosaythatsheisflungdownonhersideinthewaves，withhermastsdippingintothem，andthat，springingupagain，sherollsoverontheotherside，untilaheavyseastrikesherwiththenoiseofahundredgreatguns，andhurlsherback-thatshestops，andstaggers，andshivers，asthoughstunned，andthen，withaviolentthrobbingatherheart，dartsonwardlikeamonstergoadedintomadness，tobebeatendown，andbattered，andcrushed，andleapedonbytheangrysea-thatthunder，lightning，hail，andrain，andwind，areallinfiercecontentionforthemastery-thateveryplankhasitsgroan，everynailitsshriek，andeverydropofwaterinthegreatoceanitshowlingvoice-isnothing。Tosaythatallisgrand，andallappallingandhorribleinthelastdegree，isnothing。Wordscannotexpressit。Thoughtscannotconveyit。 Onlyadreamcancallitupagain，inallitsfury，rage，andpassion。 Andyet，intheverymidstoftheseterrors，Iwasplacedinasituationsoexquisitelyridiculous，thateventhenIhadasstrongasenseofitsabsurdityasIhavenow，andcouldnomorehelplaughingthanIcanatanyothercomicalincident，happeningundercircumstancesthemostfavourabletoitsenjoyment。Aboutmidnightweshippedasea，whichforceditswaythroughtheskylights，burstopenthedoorsabove，andcameragingandroaringdownintotheladies\'cabin，totheunspeakableconsternationofmywifeandalittleScotchlady-who，bytheway，hadpreviouslysentamessagetothecaptainbythestewardess，requestinghim，withhercompliments，tohaveasteelconductorimmediatelyattachedtothetopofeverymast，andtothechimney，inorderthattheshipmightnotbestruckbylightning。Theyandthehandmaidbeforementioned，beinginsuchecstasiesoffearthatIscarcelyknewwhattodowiththem，Inaturallybethoughtmyselfofsomerestorativeorcomfortablecordial；andnothingbetteroccurringtome，atthemoment，thanhotbrandy-and-water，Iprocuredatumblerfullwithoutdelay。Itbeingimpossibletostandorsitwithoutholdingon，theywereallheapedtogetherinonecornerofalongsofa-afixtureextendingentirelyacrossthecabin-wheretheyclungtoeachotherinmomentaryexpectationofbeingdrowned。 WhenIapproachedthisplacewithmyspecific，andwasabouttoadministeritwithmanyconsolatoryexpressionstothenearestsufferer，whatwasmydismaytoseethemallrollslowlydowntotheotherend!AndwhenIstaggeredtothatend，andheldouttheglassoncemore，howimmenselybaffledweremygoodintentionsbytheshipgivinganotherlurch，andtheirallrollingbackagain!I supposeIdodgedthemupanddownthissofaforatleastaquarterofanhour，withoutreachingthemonce；andbythetimeIdidcatchthem，thebrandy-and-waterwasdiminished，byconstantspilling，toateaspoonful。Tocompletethegroup，itisnecessarytorecogniseinthisdisconcerteddodger，anindividualverypalefromsea- sickness，whohadshavedhisbeardandbrushedhishair，last，atLiverpool:andwhoseonlyarticleofdress(linennotincluded) wereapairofdreadnoughttrousers；abluejacket，formerlyadmiredupontheThamesatRichmond；nostockings；andoneslipper。 Oftheoutrageousanticsperformedbythatshipnextmorning；whichmadebedapracticaljoke，andgettingup，byanyprocessshortoffallingout，animpossibility；Isaynothing。ButanythingliketheutterdrearinessanddesolationthatmetmyeyeswhenI literally\'tumbledup\'ondeckatnoon，Ineversaw。Oceanandskywereallofonedull，heavy，uniform，leadcolour。Therewasnoextentofprospectevenoverthedrearywastethatlayaroundus，forthesearanhigh，andthehorizonencompasseduslikealargeblackhoop。Viewedfromtheair，orsometallbluffonshore，itwouldhavebeenimposingandstupendous，nodoubt；butseenfromthewetandrollingdecks，itonlyimpressedonegiddilyandpainfully。Inthegaleoflastnightthelife-boathadbeencrushedbyoneblowofthesealikeawalnut-shell；andthereithungdanglingintheair:amerefaggotofcrazyboards。Theplankingofthepaddle-boxeshadbeentornsheeraway。Thewheelswereexposedandbare；andtheywhirledanddashedtheirsprayaboutthedecksatrandom。Chimney，whitewithcrustedsalt； topmastsstruck；storm-sailsset；riggingallknotted，tangled，wet，anddrooping:agloomierpictureitwouldbehardtolookupon。 Iwasnowcomfortablyestablishedbycourtesyintheladies\'cabin，where，besidesourselves，therewereonlyfourotherpassengers。 First，thelittleScotchladybeforementioned，onherwaytojoinherhusbandatNewYork，whohadsettledtherethreeyearsbefore。 Secondlyandthirdly，anhonestyoungYorkshireman，connectedwithsomeAmericanhouse；domiciledinthatsamecity，andcarryingthitherhisbeautifulyoungwifetowhomhehadbeenmarriedbutafortnight，andwhowasthefairestspecimenofacomelyEnglishcountrygirlIhaveeverseen。Fourthy，fifthly，andlastly，anothercouple:newlymarriedtoo，ifonemightjudgefromtheendearmentstheyfrequentlyinterchanged:ofwhomIknownomorethanthattheywereratheramysterious，run-awaykindofcouple； thattheladyhadgreatpersonalattractionsalso；andthatthegentlemancarriedmoregunswithhimthanRobinsonCrusoe，woreashooting-coat，andhadtwogreatdogsonboard。Onfurtherconsideration，Irememberthathetriedhotroastpigandbottledaleasacureforsea-sickness；andthathetooktheseremedies(usuallyinbed)dayafterday，withastonishingperseverance。I mayadd，fortheinformationofthecurious，thattheydecidedlyfailed。 Theweathercontinuingobstinatelyandalmostunprecedentedlybad，weusuallystraggledintothiscabin，moreorlessfaintandmiserable，aboutanhourbeforenoon，andlaydownonthesofastorecover；duringwhichinterval，thecaptainwouldlookintocommunicatethestateofthewind，themoralcertaintyofitschangingto-morrow(theweatherisalwaysgoingtoimproveto- morrow，atsea)，thevessel\'srateofsailing，andsoforth。 Observationstherewerenonetotellusof，fortherewasnosuntotakethemby。Butadescriptionofonedaywillserveforalltherest。Hereitis。 Thecaptainbeinggone，wecomposeourselvestoread，iftheplacebelightenough；andifnot，wedozeandtalkalternately。Atone，abellrings，andthestewardesscomesdownwithasteamingdishofbakedpotatoes，andanotherofroastedapples；andplatesofpig\'sface，coldham，saltbeef；orperhapsasmokingmessofrarehotcollops。Wefalltouponthesedainties；eatasmuchaswecan(wehavegreatappetitesnow)；andareaslongaspossibleaboutit。 Ifthefirewillburn(itWILLsometimes)weareprettycheerful。 Ifitwon\'t，weallremarktoeachotherthatit\'sverycold，rubourhands，coverourselveswithcoatsandcloaks，andliedownagaintodoze，talk，andread(providedasaforesaid)，untildinner-time。Atfive，anotherbellrings，andthestewardessreappearswithanotherdishofpotatoes-boiledthistime-andstoreofhotmeatofvariouskinds:notforgettingtheroastpig，tobetakenmedicinally。Wesitdownattableagain(rathermorecheerfullythanbefore)；prolongthemealwitharathermouldydessertofapples，grapes，andoranges；anddrinkourwineandbrandy-and-water。Thebottlesandglassesarestilluponthetable，andtheorangesandsofortharerollingaboutaccordingtotheirfancyandtheship\'sway，whenthedoctorcomesdown，byspecialnightlyinvitation，tojoinoureveningrubber: immediatelyonwhosearrivalwemakeapartyatwhist，andasitisaroughnightandthecardswillnotlieonthecloth，weputthetricksinourpocketsaswetakethem。Atwhistweremainwithexemplarygravity(deductingashorttimeforteaandtoast)untileleveno\'clock，orthereabouts；whenthecaptaincomesdownagain，inasou\'-westerhattiedunderhischin，andapilot-coat:makingthegroundwetwherehestands。Bythistimethecard-playingisover，andthebottlesandglassesareagainuponthetable；andafteranhour\'spleasantconversationabouttheship，thepassengers，andthingsingeneral，thecaptain(whonevergoestobed，andisneveroutofhumour)turnsuphiscoatcollarforthedeckagain；shakeshandsallround；andgoeslaughingoutintotheweatherasmerrilyastoabirthdayparty。 Astodailynews，thereisnodearthofthatcommodity。ThispassengerisreportedtohavelostfourteenpoundsatVingt-et-uninthesaloonyesterday；andthatpassengerdrinkshisbottleofchampagneeveryday，andhowhedoesit(beingonlyaclerk)，nobodyknows。Theheadengineerhasdistinctlysaidthatthereneverwassuchtimes-meaningweather-andfourgoodhandsareill，andhavegivenin，deadbeat。Severalberthsarefullofwater，andallthecabinsareleaky。Theship\'scook，secretlyswiggingdamagedwhiskey，hasbeenfounddrunk；andhasbeenplayeduponbythefire-engineuntilquitesober。Allthestewardshavefallendown-stairsatvariousdinner-times，andgoaboutwithplastersinvariousplaces。Thebakerisill，andsoisthepastry-cook。Anewman，horriblyindisposed，hasbeenrequiredtofilltheplaceofthelatterofficer；andhasbeenproppedandjammedupwithemptycasksinalittlehouseupondeck，andcommandedtorolloutpie-crust，whichheprotests(beinghighlybilious)itisdeathtohimtolookat。News!Adozenmurdersonshorewouldlacktheinterestoftheseslightincidentsatsea。 Dividedbetweenourrubberandsuchtopicsasthese，wewererunning(aswethought)intoHalifaxHarbour，onthefifteenthnight，withlittlewindandabrightmoon-indeed，wehadmadetheLightatitsouterentrance，andputthepilotincharge-whensuddenlytheshipstruckuponabankofmud。Animmediaterushondecktookplaceofcourse；thesideswerecrowdedinaninstant； andforafewminuteswewereinaslivelyastateofconfusionasthegreatestloverofdisorderwoulddesiretosee。Thepassengers，andguns，andwater-casks，andotherheavymatters，beingallhuddledtogetheraft，however，tolightenherinthehead，shewassoongotoff；andaftersomedrivingontowardsanuncomfortablelineofobjects(whosevicinityhadbeenannouncedveryearlyinthedisasterbyaloudcryof\'Breakersa-head!\')andmuchbackingofpaddles，andheavingoftheleadintoaconstantlydecreasingdepthofwater，wedroppedanchorinastrangeoutlandish-lookingnookwhichnobodyonboardcouldrecognise，althoughtherewaslandallaboutus，andsoclosethatwecouldplainlyseethewavingbranchesofthetrees。 Itwasstrangeenough，inthesilenceofmidnight，andthedeadstillnessthatseemedtobecreatedbythesuddenandunexpectedstoppageoftheenginewhichhadbeenclankingandblastinginourearsincessantlyforsomanydays，towatchthelookofblankastonishmentexpressedineveryface:beginningwiththeofficers，tracingitthroughallthepassengers，anddescendingtotheverystokersandfurnacemen，whoemergedfrombelow，onebyone，andclusteredtogetherinasmokygroupaboutthehatchwayoftheengine-room，comparingnotesinwhispers。Afterthrowingupafewrocketsandfiringsignalgunsinthehopeofbeinghailedfromtheland，oratleastofseeingalight-butwithoutanyothersightorsoundpresentingitself-itwasdeterminedtosendaboatonshore。Itwasamusingtoobservehowverykindsomeofthepassengerswere，involunteeringtogoashoreinthissameboat: forthegeneralgood，ofcourse:notbyanymeansbecausetheythoughttheshipinanunsafeposition，orcontemplatedthepossibilityofherheelingoverincasethetidewererunningout。 Norwasitlessamusingtoremarkhowdesperatelyunpopularthepoorpilotbecameinoneshortminute。HehadhadhispassageoutfromLiverpool，andduringthewholevoyagehadbeenquiteanotoriouscharacter，asatellerofanecdotesandcrackerofjokes。 Yethereweretheverymenwhohadlaughedtheloudestathisjests，nowflourishingtheirfistsinhisface，loadinghimwithimprecations，anddefyinghimtohisteethasavillain! Theboatsoonshovedoff，withalanternandsundrybluelightsonboard；andinlessthananhourreturned；theofficerincommandbringingwithhimatolerablytallyoungtree，whichhehadpluckedupbytheroots，tosatisfycertaindistrustfulpassengerswhosemindsmisgavethemthattheyweretobeimposeduponandshipwrecked，andwhowouldonnoothertermsbelievethathehadbeenashore，orhaddoneanythingbutfraudulentlyrowalittlewayintothemist，speciallytodeceivethemandcompasstheirdeaths。 OurcaptainhadforeseenfromthefirstthatwemustbeinaplacecalledtheEasternpassage；andsowewere。Itwasaboutthelastplaceintheworldinwhichwehadanybusinessorreasontobe，butasuddenfog，andsomeerroronthepilot\'spart，werethecause。Weweresurroundedbybanks，androcks，andshoalsofallkinds，buthadhappilydrifted，itseemed，upontheonlysafespeckthatwastobefoundthereabouts。Easedbythisreport，andbytheassurancethatthetidewaspasttheebb，weturnedinatthreeo\'clockinthemorning。 Iwasdressingabouthalf-pastninenextday，whenthenoiseabovehurriedmeondeck。WhenIhadleftitovernight，itwasdark，foggy，anddamp，andtherewerebleakhillsallroundus。Now，wewereglidingdownasmooth，broadstream，attherateofelevenmilesanhour:ourcoloursflyinggaily；ourcrewriggedoutintheirsmartestclothes；ourofficersinuniformagain；thesunshiningasonabrilliantAprildayinEngland；thelandstretchedoutoneitherside，streakedwithlightpatchesofsnow；whitewoodenhouses；peopleattheirdoors；telegraphsworking；flagshoisted；wharfsappearing；ships；quayscrowdedwithpeople； distantnoises；shouts；menandboysrunningdownsteepplacestowardsthepier:allmorebrightandgayandfreshtoourunusedeyesthanwordscanpaintthem。Wecametoawharf，pavedwithupliftedfaces；gotalongside，andweremadefast，aftersomeshoutingandstrainingofcables；darted，ascoreofusalongthegangway，almostassoonasitwasthrustouttomeetus，andbeforeithadreachedtheship-andleapeduponthefirmgladearthagain! IsupposethisHalifaxwouldhaveappearedanElysium，thoughithadbeenacuriosityofuglydulness。ButIcarriedawaywithmeamostpleasantimpressionofthetownanditsinhabitants，andhavepreservedittothishour。NorwasitwithoutregretthatIcamehome，withouthavingfoundanopportunityofreturningthither，andoncemoreshakinghandswiththefriendsImadethatday。 IthappenedtobetheopeningoftheLegislativeCouncilandGeneralAssembly，atwhichceremonialtheformsobservedonthecommencementofanewSessionofParliamentinEnglandweresocloselycopied，andsogravelypresentedonasmallscale，thatitwaslikelookingatWestminsterthroughthewrongendofatelescope。Thegovernor，asherMajesty\'srepresentative，deliveredwhatmaybecalledtheSpeechfromtheThrone。Hesaidwhathehadtosaymanfullyandwell。Themilitarybandoutsidethebuildingstruckup\"GodsavetheQueen\"withgreatvigourbeforehisExcellencyhadquitefinished；thepeopleshouted；thein\'srubbedtheirhands；theout\'sshooktheirheads；theGovernmentpartysaidthereneverwassuchagoodspeech；theOppositiondeclaredthereneverwassuchabadone；theSpeakerandmembersoftheHouseofAssemblywithdrewfromthebartosayagreatdealamongthemselvesanddoalittle:and，inshort，everythingwenton，andpromisedtogoon，justasitdoesathomeuponthelikeoccasions。 Thetownisbuiltonthesideofahill，thehighestpointbeingcommandedbyastrongfortress，notyetquitefinished。Severalstreetsofgoodbreadthandappearanceextendfromitssummittothewater-side，andareintersectedbycrossstreetsrunningparallelwiththeriver。Thehousesarechieflyofwood。Themarketisabundantlysupplied；andprovisionsareexceedinglycheap。Theweatherbeingunusuallymildatthattimefortheseasonoftheyear，therewasnosleighing:buttherewereplentyofthosevehiclesinyardsandby-places，andsomeofthem，fromthegorgeousqualityoftheirdecorations，mighthave\'goneon\' withoutalterationastriumphalcarsinamelodramaatAstley\'s。 Thedaywasuncommonlyfine；theairbracingandhealthful；thewholeaspectofthetowncheerful，thriving，andindustrious。 Welaytheresevenhours，todeliverandexchangethemails。Atlength，havingcollectedallourbagsandallourpassengers(includingtwoorthreechoicespirits，who，havingindulgedtoofreelyinoystersandchampagne，werefoundlyinginsensibleontheirbacksinunfrequentedstreets)，theengineswereagainputinmotion，andwestoodoffforBoston。 EncounteringsquallyweatheragainintheBayofFundy，wetumbledandrolledaboutasusualallthatnightandallnextday。Onthenextafternoon，thatistosay，onSaturday，thetwenty-secondofJanuary，anAmericanpilot-boatcamealongside，andsoonafterwardstheBritanniasteam-packet，fromLiverpool，eighteendaysout，wastelegraphedatBoston。 TheindescribableinterestwithwhichIstrainedmyeyes，asthefirstpatchesofAmericansoilpeepedlikemolehillsfromthegreensea，andfollowedthem，astheyswelled，byslowandalmostimperceptibledegrees，intoacontinuouslineofcoast，canhardlybeexaggerated。Asharpkeenwindblewdeadagainstus；ahardfrostprevailedonshore；andthecoldwasmostsevere。Yettheairwassointenselyclear，anddry，andbright，thatthetemperaturewasnotonlyendurable，butdelicious。 HowIremainedondeck，staringaboutme，untilwecamealongsidethedock，andhow，thoughIhadhadasmanyeyesasArgus，Ishouldhavehadthemallwideopen，andallemployedonnewobjects-aretopicswhichIwillnotprolongthischaptertodiscuss。NeitherwillImorethanhintatmyforeigner-likemistakeinsupposingthatapartyofmostactivepersons，whoscrambledonboardattheperiloftheirlivesasweapproachedthewharf，werenewsmen，answeringtothatindustriousclassathome；whereas，despitetheleathernwalletsofnewsslungaboutthenecksofsome，andthebroadsheetsinthehandsofall，theywereEditors，whoboardedshipsinperson(asonegentlemaninaworstedcomforterinformedme)，\'becausetheylikedtheexcitementofit。\'Sufficeitinthisplacetosay，thatoneoftheseinvaders，withareadycourtesyforwhichIthankhimheremostgratefully，wentonbeforetoorderroomsatthehotel；andthatwhenIfollowed，asIsoondid，I foundmyselfrollingthroughthelongpassageswithaninvoluntaryimitationofthegaitofMr。T。P。Cooke，inanewnauticalmelodrama。 \'Dinner，ifyouplease，\'saidItothewaiter。 \'When？\'saidthewaiter。 \'Asquickaspossible，\'saidI。 \'Rightaway？\'saidthewaiter。 Afteramoment\'shesitation，Ianswered\'No，\'athazard。 \'NOTrightaway？\'criedthewaiter，withanamountofsurprisethatmademestart。 Ilookedathimdoubtfully，andreturned，\'No；Iwouldratherhaveitinthisprivateroom。Ilikeitverymuch。\' Atthis，Ireallythoughtthewaitermusthavegoneoutofhismind:asIbelievehewouldhavedone，butfortheinterpositionofanotherman，whowhisperedinhisear，\'Directly。\' \'Well!andthat\'safact!\'saidthewaiter，lookinghelplesslyatme:\'Rightaway。\' Isawnowthat\'Rightaway\'and\'Directly\'wereoneandthesamething。SoIreversedmypreviousanswer，andsatdowntodinnerintenminutesafterwards；andacapitaldinneritwas。 Thehotel(averyexcellentone)iscalledtheTremontHouse。Ithasmoregalleries，colonnades，piazzas，andpassagesthanIcanremember，orthereaderwouldbelieve。 CHAPTERIII-BOSTON INallthepublicestablishmentsofAmerica，theutmostcourtesyprevails。MostofourDepartmentsaresusceptibleofconsiderableimprovementinthisrespect，buttheCustom-houseaboveallotherswoulddowelltotakeexamplefromtheUnitedStatesandrenderitselfsomewhatlessodiousandoffensivetoforeigners。TheservilerapacityoftheFrenchofficialsissufficientlycontemptible；butthereisasurlyboorishincivilityaboutourmen，alikedisgustingtoallpersonswhofallintotheirhands，anddiscreditabletothenationthatkeepssuchill-conditionedcurssnarlingaboutitsgates。 WhenIlandedinAmerica，IcouldnothelpbeingstronglyimpressedwiththecontrasttheirCustom-housepresented，andtheattention，politenessandgoodhumourwithwhichitsofficersdischargedtheirduty。 AswedidnotlandatBoston，inconsequenceofsomedetentionatthewharf，untilafterdark，IreceivedmyfirstimpressionsofthecityinwalkingdowntotheCustom-houseonthemorningafterourarrival，whichwasSunday。Iamafraidtosay，bytheway，howmanyoffersofpewsandseatsinchurchforthatmorningweremadetous，byformalnoteofinvitation，beforewehadhalffinishedourfirstdinnerinAmerica，butifImaybeallowedtomakeamoderateguess，withoutgoingintonicercalculation，Ishouldsaythatatleastasmanysittingswereprofferedus，aswouldhaveaccommodatedascoreortwoofgrown-upfamilies。Thenumberofcreedsandformsofreligiontowhichthepleasureofourcompanywasrequested，wasinveryfairproportion。 Notbeingable，intheabsenceofanychangeofclothes，togotochurchthatday，wewerecompelledtodeclinethesekindnesses，oneandall；andIwasreluctantlyobligedtoforegothedelightofhearingDr。Channing，whohappenedtopreachthatmorningforthefirsttimeinaverylonginterval。Imentionthenameofthisdistinguishedandaccomplishedman(withwhomIsoonafterwardshadthepleasureofbecomingpersonallyacquainted)，thatImayhavethegratificationofrecordingmyhumbletributeofadmirationandrespectforhishighabilitiesandcharacter；andfortheboldphilanthropywithwhichhehaseveropposedhimselftothatmosthideousblotandfouldisgrace-Slavery。 ToreturntoBoston。WhenIgotintothestreetsuponthisSundaymorning，theairwassoclear，thehousesweresobrightandgay: thesignboardswerepaintedinsuchgaudycolours；thegildedlettersweresoverygolden；thebricksweresoveryred，thestonewassoverywhite，theblindsandarearailingsweresoverygreen，theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorssomarvellouslybrightandtwinkling；andallsoslightandunsubstantialinappearance- thateverythoroughfareinthecitylookedexactlylikeasceneinapantomime。Itrarelyhappensinthebusinessstreetsthatatradesman，ifImayventuretocallanybodyatradesman，whereeverybodyisamerchant，residesabovehisstore；sothatmanyoccupationsareoftencarriedoninonehouse，andthewholefrontiscoveredwithboardsandinscriptions。AsIwalkedalong，Ikeptglancingupattheseboards，confidentlyexpectingtoseeafewofthemchangeintosomething；andIneverturnedacornersuddenlywithoutlookingoutfortheclownandpantaloon，who，Ihadnodoubt，werehidinginadoorwayorbehindsomepillarcloseathand。AstoHarlequinandColumbine，Idiscoveredimmediatelythattheylodged(theyarealwayslookingafterlodgingsinapantomime) ataverysmallclockmaker\'sonestoryhigh，nearthehotel；which，inadditiontovarioussymbolsanddevices，almostcoveringthewholefront，hadagreatdialhangingout-tobejumpedthrough，ofcourse。 Thesuburbsare，ifpossible，evenmoreunsubstantial-lookingthanthecity。Thewhitewoodenhouses(sowhitethatitmakesonewinktolookatthem)，withtheirgreenjalousieblinds，aresosprinkledanddroppedaboutinalldirections，withoutseemingtohaveanyrootatallintheground；andthesmallchurchesandchapelsaresoprim，andbright，andhighlyvarnished；thatI almostbelievedthewholeaffaircouldbetakenuppiecemeallikeachild\'stoy，andcrammedintoalittlebox。 Thecityisabeautifulone，andcannotfail，Ishouldimagine，toimpressallstrangersveryfavourably。Theprivatedwelling-housesare，forthemostpart，largeandelegant；theshopsextremelygood；andthepublicbuildingshandsome。TheStateHouseisbuiltuponthesummitofahill，whichrisesgraduallyatfirst，andafterwardsbyasteepascent，almostfromthewater\'sedge。Infrontisagreenenclosure，calledtheCommon。Thesiteisbeautiful:andfromthetopthereisacharmingpanoramicviewofthewholetownandneighbourhood。Inadditiontoavarietyofcommodiousoffices，itcontainstwohandsomechambers；inonetheHouseofRepresentativesoftheStateholdtheirmeetings:intheother，theSenate。SuchproceedingsasIsawhere，wereconductedwithperfectgravityanddecorum；andwerecertainlycalculatedtoinspireattentionandrespect。 ThereisnodoubtthatmuchoftheintellectualrefinementandsuperiorityofBoston，isreferabletothequietinfluenceoftheUniversityofCambridge，whichiswithinthreeorfourmilesofthecity。Theresidentprofessorsatthatuniversityaregentlemenoflearningandvariedattainments；andare，withoutoneexceptionthatIcancalltomind，menwhowouldshedagraceupon，anddohonourto，anysocietyinthecivilisedworld。ManyoftheresidentgentryinBostonanditsneighbourhood，andIthinkIamnotmistakeninadding，alargemajorityofthosewhoareattachedtotheliberalprofessionsthere，havebeeneducatedatthissameschool。WhateverthedefectsofAmericanuniversitiesmaybe，theydisseminatenoprejudices；rearnobigots；diguptheburiedashesofnooldsuperstitions；neverinterposebetweenthepeopleandtheirimprovement；excludenomanbecauseofhisreligiousopinions；aboveall，intheirwholecourseofstudyandinstruction，recogniseaworld，andabroadonetoo，lyingbeyondthecollegewalls。 Itwasasourceofinexpressiblepleasuretometoobservethealmostimperceptible，butnotlesscertaineffect，wroughtbythisinstitutionamongthesmallcommunityofBoston；andtonoteateveryturnthehumanisingtastesanddesiresithasengendered；theaffectionatefriendshipstowhichithasgivenrise；theamountofvanityandprejudiceithasdispelled。ThegoldencalftheyworshipatBostonisapigmycomparedwiththegianteffigiessetupinotherpartsofthatvastcounting-housewhichliesbeyondtheAtlantic；andthealmightydollarsinksintosomethingcomparativelyinsignificant，amidstawholePantheonofbettergods。 Aboveall，IsincerelybelievethatthepublicinstitutionsandcharitiesofthiscapitalofMassachusettsareasnearlyperfect，asthemostconsideratewisdom，benevolence，andhumanity，canmakethem。Ineverinmylifewasmoreaffectedbythecontemplationofhappiness，undercircumstancesofprivationandbereavement，thaninmyvisitstotheseestablishments。 ItisagreatandpleasantfeatureofallsuchinstitutionsinAmerica，thattheyareeithersupportedbytheStateorassistedbytheState；or(intheeventoftheirnotneedingitshelpinghand) thattheyactinconcertwithit，andareemphaticallythepeople\'s。Icannotbutthink，withaviewtotheprincipleanditstendencytoelevateordepressthecharacteroftheindustriousclasses，thataPublicCharityisimmeasurablybetterthanaPrivateFoundation，nomatterhowmunificentlythelattermaybeendowed。Inourowncountry，whereithasnot，untilwithintheselaterdays，beenaverypopularfashionwithgovernmentstodisplayanyextraordinaryregardforthegreatmassofthepeopleortorecognisetheirexistenceasimprovablecreatures，privatecharities，unexampledinthehistoryoftheearth，havearisen，todoanincalculableamountofgoodamongthedestituteandafflicted。Butthegovernmentofthecountry，havingneitheractnorpartinthem，isnotinthereceiptofanyportionofthegratitudetheyinspire；and，offeringverylittleshelterorreliefbeyondthatwhichistobefoundintheworkhouseandthejail，hascome，notunnaturally，tobelookeduponbythepoorratherasasternmaster，quicktocorrectandpunish，thanakindprotector，mercifulandvigilantintheirhourofneed。 Themaximthatoutofevilcomethgood，isstronglyillustratedbytheseestablishmentsathome；astherecordsofthePrerogativeOfficeinDoctors\'Commonscanabundantlyprove。Someimmenselyricholdgentlemanorlady，surroundedbyneedyrelatives，makes，uponalowaverage，awilla-week。Theoldgentlemanorlady，neververyremarkableinthebestoftimesforgoodtemper，isfullofachesandpainsfromheadtofoot；fulloffanciesandcaprices； fullofspleen，distrust，suspicion，anddislike。Tocanceloldwills，andinventnewones，isatlastthesolebusinessofsuchatestator\'sexistence；andrelationsandfriends(someofwhomhavebeenbredupdistinctlytoinheritalargeshareoftheproperty，andhavebeen，fromtheircradles，speciallydisqualifiedfromdevotingthemselvestoanyusefulpursuit，onthataccount)aresooftenandsounexpectedlyandsummarilycutoff，andreinstated，andcutoffagain，thatthewholefamily，downtotheremotestcousin，iskeptinaperpetualfever。Atlengthitbecomesplainthattheoldladyorgentlemanhasnotlongtolive；andtheplainerthisbecomes，themoreclearlytheoldladyorgentlemanperceivesthateverybodyisinaconspiracyagainsttheirpoorolddyingrelative；whereforetheoldladyorgentlemanmakesanotherlastwill-positivelythelastthistime-concealsthesameinachinateapot，andexpiresnextday。Thenitturnsout，thatthewholeoftherealandpersonalestateisdividedbetweenhalf-a- dozencharities；andthatthedeadandgonetestatorhasinpurespitehelpedtodoagreatdealofgood，atthecostofanimmenseamountofevilpassionandmisery。 ThePerkinsInstitutionandMassachusettsAsylumfortheBlind，atBoston，issuperintendedbyabodyoftrusteeswhomakeanannualreporttothecorporation。Theindigentblindofthatstateareadmittedgratuitously。ThosefromtheadjoiningstateofConnecticut，orfromthestatesofMaine，Vermont，orNewHampshire，areadmittedbyawarrantfromthestatetowhichtheyrespectivelybelong；or，failingthat，mustfindsecurityamongtheirfriends，forthepaymentofabouttwentypoundsEnglishfortheirfirstyear\'sboardandinstruction，andtenforthesecond。 \'Afterthefirstyear，\'saythetrustees，\'anaccountcurrentwillbeopenedwitheachpupil；hewillbechargedwiththeactualcostofhisboard，whichwillnotexceedtwodollarsperweek；\'atriflemorethaneightshillingsEnglish；\'andhewillbecreditedwiththeamountpaidforhimbythestate，orbyhisfriends；alsowithhisearningsoverandabovethecostofthestockwhichheuses；sothatallhisearningsoveronedollarperweekwillbehisown。Bythethirdyearitwillbeknownwhetherhisearningswillmorethanpaytheactualcostofhisboard；iftheyshould，hewillhaveitathisoptiontoremainandreceivehisearnings，ornot。Thosewhoproveunabletoearntheirownlivelihoodwillnotberetained； asitisnotdesirabletoconverttheestablishmentintoanalms- house，ortoretainanybutworkingbeesinthehive。Thosewhobyphysicalormentalimbecilityaredisqualifiedfromwork，aretherebydisqualifiedfrombeingmembersofanindustriouscommunity；andtheycanbebetterprovidedforinestablishmentsfittedfortheinfirm。\' Iwenttoseethisplaceoneveryfinewintermorning:anItalianskyabove，andtheairsoclearandbrightoneveryside，thatevenmyeyes，whicharenoneofthebest，couldfollowtheminutelinesandscrapsoftraceryindistantbuildings。LikemostotherpublicinstitutionsinAmerica，ofthesameclass，itstandsamileortwowithoutthetown，inacheerfulhealthyspot；andisanairy，spacious，handsomeedifice。Itisbuiltuponaheight，commandingtheharbour。WhenIpausedforamomentatthedoor，andmarkedhowfreshandfreethewholescenewas-whatsparklingbubblesglanceduponthewaves，andwelledupeverymomenttothesurface，asthoughtheworldbelow，likethatabove，wereradiantwiththebrightday，andgushingoverinitsfulnessoflight:whenIgazedfromsailtosailawayuponashipatsea，atinyspeckofshiningwhite，theonlyclouduponthestill，deep，distantblue-and，turning，sawablindboywithhissightlessfaceaddressedthatway，asthoughhetoohadsomesensewithinhimofthegloriousdistance:Ifeltakindofsorrowthattheplaceshouldbesoverylight，andastrangewishthatforhissakeitweredarker。Itwasbutmomentary，ofcourse，andamerefancy，butIfeltitkeenlyforallthat。 Thechildrenwereattheirdailytasksindifferentrooms，exceptafewwhowerealreadydismissed，andwereatplay。Here，asinmanyinstitutions，nouniformisworn；andIwasverygladofit，fortworeasons。Firstly，becauseIamsurethatnothingbutsenselesscustomandwantofthoughtwouldreconcileustotheliveriesandbadgeswearesofondofathome。Secondly，becausetheabsenceofthesethingspresentseachchildtothevisitorinhisorherownpropercharacter，withitsindividualityunimpaired；notlostinadull，ugly，monotonousrepetitionofthesameunmeaninggarb: whichisreallyanimportantconsideration。Thewisdomofencouragingalittleharmlessprideinpersonalappearanceevenamongtheblind，orthewhimsicalabsurdityofconsideringcharityandleatherbreechesinseparablecompanions，aswedo，requiresnocomment。