第5章

(stillinterrogatively)toeach。Thenheguessesthatyoudon\'ttravelfasterinEngland；andonyourreplyingthatyoudo，says\'Yes？\'again(stillinterrogatively)，anditisquiteevident，don\'tbelieveit。Afteralongpauseheremarks，partlytoyou，andpartlytotheknobonthetopofhisstick，that\'Yankeesarereckonedtobeconsiderableofago-aheadpeopletoo；\'uponwhichYOUsay\'Yes，\'andthenHEsays\'Yes\'again(affirmativelythistime)；anduponyourlookingoutofwindow，tellsyouthatbehindthathill，andsomethreemilesfromthenextstation，thereisaclevertowninasmartlo-ca-tion，whereheexpectsyouhaveconcludedtostop。Youranswerinthenegativenaturallyleadstomorequestionsinreferencetoyourintendedroute(alwayspronouncedrout)；andwhereveryouaregoing，youinvariablylearnthatyoucan\'tgettherewithoutimmensedifficultyanddanger，andthatallthegreatsightsaresomewhereelse。 Ifaladytakeafancytoanymalepassenger\'sseat，thegentlemanwhoaccompanieshergiveshimnoticeofthefact，andheimmediatelyvacatesitwithgreatpoliteness。Politicsaremuchdiscussed，soarebanks，soiscotton。QuietpeopleavoidthequestionofthePresidency，fortherewillbeanewelectioninthreeyearsandahalf，andpartyfeelingrunsveryhigh:thegreatconstitutionalfeatureofthisinstitutionbeing，thatdirectlytheacrimonyofthelastelectionisover，theacrimonyofthenextonebegins；whichisanunspeakablecomforttoallstrongpoliticiansandtrueloversoftheircountry:thatistosay，toninety-ninemenandboysoutofeveryninety-nineandaquarter。 Exceptwhenabranchroadjoinsthemainone，thereisseldommorethanonetrackofrails；sothattheroadisverynarrow，andtheview，wherethereisadeepcutting，bynomeansextensive。Whenthereisnot，thecharacterofthesceneryisalwaysthesame。 Mileaftermileofstuntedtrees:somehewndownbytheaxe，someblowndownbythewind，somehalffallenandrestingontheirneighbours，manymerelogshalfhiddenintheswamp，othersmoulderedawaytospongychips。Theverysoiloftheearthismadeupofminutefragmentssuchasthese；eachpoolofstagnantwaterhasitscrustofvegetablerottenness；oneverysidetherearetheboughs，andtrunks，andstumpsoftrees，ineverypossiblestageofdecay，decomposition，andneglect。Nowyouemergeforafewbriefminutesonanopencountry，glitteringwithsomebrightlakeorpool，broadasmanyanEnglishriver，butsosmallherethatitscarcelyhasaname；nowcatchhastyglimpsesofadistanttown，withitscleanwhitehousesandtheircoolpiazzas，itsprimNewEnglandchurchandschool-house；whenwhir-r-r-r!almostbeforeyouhaveseenthem，comesthesamedarkscreen:thestuntedtrees，thestumps，thelogs，thestagnantwater-allsolikethelastthatyouseemtohavebeentransportedbackagainbymagic。 Thetraincallsatstationsinthewoods，wherethewildimpossibilityofanybodyhavingthesmallestreasontogetout，isonlytobeequalledbytheapparentlydesperatehopelessnessoftherebeinganybodytogetin。Itrushesacrosstheturnpikeroad，wherethereisnogate，nopoliceman，nosignal:nothingbutaroughwoodenarch，onwhichispainted\'WHENTHEBELLRINGS，LOOK OUTFORTHELOCOMOTIVE。\'Onitwhirlsheadlong，divesthroughthewoodsagain，emergesinthelight，clattersoverfrailarches，rumblesupontheheavyground，shootsbeneathawoodenbridgewhichinterceptsthelightforasecondlikeawink，suddenlyawakensalltheslumberingechoesinthemainstreetofalargetown，anddashesonhaphazard，pell-mell，neck-or-nothing，downthemiddleoftheroad。There-withmechanicsworkingattheirtrades，andpeopleleaningfromtheirdoorsandwindows，andboysflyingkitesandplayingmarbles，andmensmoking，andwomentalking，andchildrencrawling，andpigsburrowing，andunaccustomedhorsesplungingandrearing，closetotheveryrails-there-on，on，on-tearsthemaddragonofanenginewithitstrainofcars； scatteringinalldirectionsashowerofburningsparksfromitswoodfire；screeching，hissing，yelling，panting；untilatlastthethirstymonsterstopsbeneathacoveredwaytodrink，thepeopleclusterround，andyouhavetimetobreatheagain。 IwasmetatthestationatLowellbyagentlemanintimatelyconnectedwiththemanagementofthefactoriesthere；andgladlyputtingmyselfunderhisguidance，droveoffatoncetothatquarterofthetowninwhichtheworks，theobjectofmyvisit，weresituated。Althoughonlyjustofage-forifmyrecollectionserveme，ithasbeenamanufacturingtownbarelyone-and-twentyyears-Lowellisalarge，populous，thrivingplace。Thoseindicationsofitsyouthwhichfirstattracttheeye，giveitaquaintnessandoddityofcharacterwhich，toavisitorfromtheoldcountry，isamusingenough。Itwasaverydirtywinter\'sday，andnothinginthewholetownlookedoldtome，exceptthemud，whichinsomepartswasalmostknee-deep，andmighthavebeendepositedthere，onthesubsidingofthewatersaftertheDeluge。Inoneplace，therewasanewwoodenchurch，which，havingnosteeple，andbeingyetunpainted，lookedlikeanenormouspacking-casewithoutanydirectionuponit。Inanothertherewasalargehotel，whosewallsandcolonnadesweresocrisp，andthin，andslight，thatithadexactlytheappearanceofbeingbuiltwithcards。Iwascarefulnottodrawmybreathaswepassed，andtrembledwhenIsawaworkmancomeoutupontheroof，lestwithonethoughtlessstampofhisfootheshouldcrushthestructurebeneathhim，andbringitrattlingdown。Theveryriverthatmovesthemachineryinthemills(fortheyareallworkedbywaterpower)，seemstoacquireanewcharacterfromthefreshbuildingsofbrightredbrickandpaintedwoodamongwhichittakesitscourse；andtobeaslight- headed，thoughtless，andbriskayoungriver，initsmurmuringsandtumblings，asonewoulddesiretosee。Onewouldswearthatevery\'Bakery，\'\'Grocery，\'and\'Bookbindery，\'andotherkindofstore，tookitsshuttersdownforthefirsttime，andstartedinbusinessyesterday。Thegoldenpestlesandmortarsfixedassignsuponthesun-blindframesoutsidetheDruggists\'，appeartohavebeenjustturnedoutoftheUnitedStates\'Mint；andwhenIsawababyofsomeweekortendaysoldinawoman\'sarmsatastreetcorner，I foundmyselfunconsciouslywonderingwhereitcamefrom:neversupposingforaninstantthatitcouldhavebeenborninsuchayoungtownasthat。 ThereareseveralfactoriesinLowell，eachofwhichbelongstowhatweshouldtermaCompanyofProprietors，butwhattheycallinAmericaaCorporation。Iwentoverseveralofthese；suchasawoollenfactory，acarpetfactory，andacottonfactory:examinedthemineverypart；andsawthemintheirordinaryworkingaspect，withnopreparationofanykind，ordeparturefromtheirordinaryeverydayproceedings。ImayaddthatIamwellacquaintedwithourmanufacturingtownsinEngland，andhavevisitedmanymillsinManchesterandelsewhereinthesamemanner。 Ihappenedtoarriveatthefirstfactoryjustasthedinnerhourwasover，andthegirlswerereturningtotheirwork；indeedthestairsofthemillwerethrongedwiththemasIascended。Theywereallwelldressed，butnottomythinkingabovetheircondition；forIliketoseethehumblerclassesofsocietycarefuloftheirdressandappearance，andeven，iftheyplease，decoratedwithsuchlittletrinketsascomewithinthecompassoftheirmeans。Supposingitconfinedwithinreasonablelimits，Iwouldalwaysencouragethiskindofpride，asaworthyelementofself- respect，inanypersonIemployed；andshouldnomorebedeterredfromdoingso，becausesomewretchedfemalereferredherfalltoaloveofdress，thanIwouldallowmyconstructionoftherealintentandmeaningoftheSabbathtobeinfluencedbyanywarningtothewell-disposed，foundedonhisbackslidingsonthatparticularday，whichmightemanatefromtheratherdoubtfulauthorityofamurdererinNewgate。 Thesegirls，asIhavesaid，wereallwelldressed:andthatphrasenecessarilyincludesextremecleanliness。Theyhadserviceablebonnets，goodwarmcloaks，andshawls；andwerenotaboveclogsandpattens。Moreover，therewereplacesinthemillinwhichtheycoulddepositthesethingswithoutinjury；andtherewereconveniencesforwashing。Theywerehealthyinappearance，manyofthemremarkablyso，andhadthemannersanddeportmentofyoungwomen:notofdegradedbrutesofburden。IfIhadseeninoneofthosemills(butIdidnot，thoughIlookedforsomethingofthiskindwithasharpeye)，themostlisping，mincing，affected，andridiculousyoungcreaturethatmyimaginationcouldsuggest，I shouldhavethoughtofthecareless，moping，slatternly，degraded，dullreverse(IHAVEseenthat)，andshouldhavebeenstillwellpleasedtolookuponher。 Theroomsinwhichtheyworked，wereaswellorderedasthemselves。 Inthewindowsofsome，thereweregreenplants，whichweretrainedtoshadetheglass；inall，therewasasmuchfreshair，cleanliness，andcomfort，asthenatureoftheoccupationwouldpossiblyadmitof。Outofsolargeanumberoffemales，manyofwhomwereonlythenjustverginguponwomanhood，itmaybereasonablysupposedthatsomeweredelicateandfragileinappearance:nodoubttherewere。ButIsolemnlydeclare，thatfromallthecrowdIsawinthedifferentfactoriesthatday，I cannotrecallorseparateoneyoungfacethatgavemeapainfulimpression；notoneyounggirlwhom，assumingittobeamatterofnecessitythatsheshouldgainherdailybreadbythelabourofherhands，IwouldhaveremovedfromthoseworksifIhadhadthepower。 Theyresideinvariousboarding-housesnearathand。Theownersofthemillsareparticularlycarefultoallownopersonstoenteruponthepossessionofthesehouses，whosecharactershavenotundergonethemostsearchingandthoroughinquiry。Anycomplaintthatismadeagainstthem，bytheboarders，orbyanyoneelse，isfullyinvestigated；andifgoodgroundofcomplaintbeshowntoexistagainstthem，theyareremoved，andtheiroccupationishandedovertosomemoredeservingperson。Thereareafewchildrenemployedinthesefactories，butnotmany。ThelawsoftheStateforbidtheirworkingmorethanninemonthsintheyear，andrequirethattheybeeducatedduringtheotherthree。ForthispurposethereareschoolsinLowell；andtherearechurchesandchapelsofvariouspersuasions，inwhichtheyoungwomenmayobservethatformofworshipinwhichtheyhavebeeneducated。 Atsomedistancefromthefactories，andonthehighestandpleasantestgroundintheneighbourhood，standstheirhospital，orboarding-houseforthesick:itisthebesthouseinthoseparts，andwasbuiltbyaneminentmerchantforhisownresidence。LikethatinstitutionatBoston，whichIhavebeforedescribed，itisnotparcelledoutintowards，butisdividedintoconvenientchambers，eachofwhichhasallthecomfortsofaverycomfortablehome。Theprincipalmedicalattendantresidesunderthesameroof； andwerethepatientsmembersofhisownfamily，theycouldnotbebettercaredfor，orattendedwithgreatergentlenessandconsideration。Theweeklychargeinthisestablishmentforeachfemalepatientisthreedollars，ortwelveshillingsEnglish；butnogirlemployedbyanyofthecorporationsiseverexcludedforwantofthemeansofpayment。Thattheydonotveryoftenwantthemeans，maybegatheredfromthefact，thatinJuly，1841，nofewerthanninehundredandseventy-eightofthesegirlsweredepositorsintheLowellSavingsBank:theamountofwhosejointsavingswasestimatedatonehundredthousanddollars，ortwentythousandEnglishpounds。 Iamnowgoingtostatethreefacts，whichwillstartlealargeclassofreadersonthissideoftheAtlantic，verymuch。 Firstly，thereisajoint-stockpianoinagreatmanyoftheboarding-houses。Secondly，nearlyalltheseyoungladiessubscribetocirculatinglibraries。Thirdly，theyhavegotupamongthemselvesaperiodicalcalledTHELOWELLOFFERING，\'Arepositoryoforiginalarticles，writtenexclusivelybyfemalesactivelyemployedinthemills，\'-whichisdulyprinted，published，andsold；andwhereofIbroughtawayfromLowellfourhundredgoodsolidpages，whichIhavereadfrombeginningtoend。 Thelargeclassofreaders，startledbythesefacts，willexclaim，withonevoice，\'Howverypreposterous!\'Onmydeferentiallyinquiringwhy，theywillanswer，\'Thesethingsareabovetheirstation。\'Inreplytothatobjection，Iwouldbegtoaskwhattheirstationis。 Itistheirstationtowork。AndtheyDOwork。Theylabourinthesemills，uponanaverage，twelvehoursaday，whichisunquestionablywork，andprettytightworktoo。Perhapsitisabovetheirstationtoindulgeinsuchamusements，onanyterms。 ArewequitesurethatweinEnglandhavenotformedourideasofthe\'station\'ofworkingpeople，fromaccustomingourselvestothecontemplationofthatclassastheyare，andnotastheymightbe？ Ithinkthatifweexamineourownfeelings，weshallfindthatthepianos，andthecirculatinglibraries，andeventheLowellOffering，startleusbytheirnovelty，andnotbytheirbearinguponanyabstractquestionofrightorwrong。 Formyself，Iknownostationinwhich，theoccupationofto-daycheerfullydoneandtheoccupationofto-morrowcheerfullylookedto，anyoneofthesepursuitsisnotmosthumanisingandlaudable。 Iknownostationwhichisrenderedmoreendurabletothepersoninit，ormoresafetothepersonoutofit，byhavingignoranceforitsassociate。Iknownostationwhichhasarighttomonopolisethemeansofmutualinstruction，improvement，andrationalentertainment；orwhichhasevercontinuedtobeastationverylong，afterseekingtodoso。 OfthemeritsoftheLowellOfferingasaliteraryproduction，I willonlyobserve，puttingentirelyoutofsightthefactofthearticleshavingbeenwrittenbythesegirlsafterthearduouslaboursoftheday，thatitwillcompareadvantageouslywithagreatmanyEnglishAnnuals。ItispleasanttofindthatmanyofitsTalesareoftheMillsandofthosewhoworkinthem；thattheyinculcatehabitsofself-denialandcontentment，andteachgooddoctrinesofenlargedbenevolence。Astrongfeelingforthebeautiesofnature，asdisplayedinthesolitudesthewritershaveleftathome，breathesthroughitspageslikewholesomevillageair；andthoughacirculatinglibraryisafavourableschoolforthestudyofsuchtopics，ithasveryscantallusiontofineclothes，finemarriages，finehouses，orfinelife。Somepersonsmightobjecttothepapersbeingsignedoccasionallywithratherfinenames，butthisisanAmericanfashion。OneoftheprovincesofthestatelegislatureofMassachusettsistoalteruglynamesintoprettyones，asthechildrenimproveuponthetastesoftheirparents。Thesechangescostinglittleornothing，scoresofMaryAnnesaresolemnlyconvertedintoBevelinaseverysession。 ItissaidthatontheoccasionofavisitfromGeneralJacksonorGeneralHarrisontothistown(Iforgetwhich，butitisnottothepurpose)，hewalkedthroughthreemilesandahalfoftheseyoungladiesalldressedoutwithparasolsandsilkstockings。ButasI amnotawarethatanyworseconsequenceensued，thanasuddenlooking-upofalltheparasolsandsilkstockingsinthemarket； andperhapsthebankruptcyofsomespeculativeNewEnglanderwhoboughtthemallupatanyprice，inexpectationofademandthatnevercame；Isetnogreatstorebythecircumstance。 InthisbriefaccountofLowell，andinadequateexpressionofthegratificationityieldedme，andcannotfailtoaffordtoanyforeignertowhomtheconditionofsuchpeopleathomeisasubjectofinterestandanxiousspeculation，Ihavecarefullyabstainedfromdrawingacomparisonbetweenthesefactoriesandthoseofourownland。Manyofthecircumstanceswhosestronginfluencehasbeenatworkforyearsinourmanufacturingtownshavenotarisenhere；andthereisnomanufacturingpopulationinLowell，sotospeak:forthesegirls(oftenthedaughtersofsmallfarmers)comefromotherStates，remainafewyearsinthemills，andthengohomeforgood。 Thecontrastwouldbeastrongone，foritwouldbebetweentheGoodandEvil，thelivinglightanddeepestshadow。Iabstainfromit，becauseIdeemitjusttodoso。ButIonlythemoreearnestlyadjureallthosewhoseeyesmayrestonthesepages，topauseandreflectuponthedifferencebetweenthistownandthosegreathauntsofdesperatemisery:tocalltomind，iftheycaninthemidstofpartystrifeandsquabble，theeffortsthatmustbemadetopurgethemoftheirsufferinganddanger:andlast，andforemost，torememberhowthepreciousTimeisrushingby。 Ireturnedatnightbythesamerailroadandinthesamekindofcar。Oneofthepassengersbeingexceedinglyanxioustoexpoundatgreatlengthtomycompanion(nottome，ofcourse)thetrueprinciplesonwhichbooksoftravelinAmericashouldbewrittenbyEnglishmen，Ifeignedtofallasleep。Butglancingallthewayoutatwindowfromthecornersofmyeyes，Ifoundabundanceofentertainmentfortherestoftherideinwatchingtheeffectsofthewoodfire，whichhadbeeninvisibleinthemorningbutwerenowbroughtoutinfullreliefbythedarkness:forweweretravellinginawhirlwindofbrightsparks，whichshoweredaboutuslikeastormoffierysnow。 CHAPTERV-WORCESTER。THECONNECTICUTRIVER。HARTFORD。NEW HAVEN。TONEWYORK LEAVINGBostonontheafternoonofSaturdaythefifthofFebruary，weproceededbyanotherrailroadtoWorcester:aprettyNewEnglandtown，wherewehadarrangedtoremainunderthehospitableroofoftheGovernoroftheState，untilMondaymorning。 ThesetownsandcitiesofNewEngland(manyofwhichwouldbevillagesinOldEngland)，areasfavourablespecimensofruralAmerica，astheirpeopleareofruralAmericans。Thewell-trimmedlawnsandgreenmeadowsofhomearenotthere；andthegrass，comparedwithourornamentalplotsandpastures，isrank，andrough，andwild:butdelicateslopesofland，gently-swellinghills，woodedvalleys，andslenderstreams，abound。Everylittlecolonyofhouseshasitschurchandschool-housepeepingfromamongthewhiteroofsandshadytrees；everyhouseisthewhitestofthewhite；everyVenetianblindthegreenestofthegreen；everyfineday\'sskythebluestoftheblue。AsharpdrywindandaslightfrosthadsohardenedtheroadswhenwealightedatWorcester，thattheirfurrowedtrackswerelikeridgesofgranite。Therewastheusualaspectofnewnessoneveryobject，ofcourse。Allthebuildingslookedasiftheyhadbeenbuiltandpaintedthatmorning，andcouldbetakendownonMondaywithverylittletrouble。Inthekeeneveningair，everysharpoutlinelookedahundredtimessharperthanever。ThecleancardboardcolonnadeshadnomoreperspectivethanaChinesebridgeonatea-cup，andappearedequallywellcalculatedforuse。Therazor-likeedgesofthedetachedcottagesseemedtocuttheverywindasitwhistledagainstthem，andtosenditsmartingonitswaywithashrillercrythanbefore。Thoseslightly-builtwoodendwellingsbehindwhichthesunwassettingwithabrilliantlustre，couldbesolookedthroughandthrough，thattheideaofanyinhabitantbeingabletohidehimselffromthepublicgaze，ortohaveanysecretsfromthepubliceye，wasnotentertainableforamoment。Evenwhereablazingfireshonethroughtheuncurtainedwindowsofsomedistanthouse，ithadtheairofbeingnewlylighted，andoflackingwarmth；andinsteadofawakeningthoughtsofasnugchamber，brightwithfacesthatfirstsawthelightroundthatsamehearth，andruddywithwarmhangings，itcameupononesuggestiveofthesmellofnewmortaranddampwalls。 SoIthought，atleast，thatevening。Nextmorningwhenthesunwasshiningbrightly，andtheclearchurchbellswereringing，andsedatepeopleintheirbestclothesenlivenedthepathwaynearathandanddottedthedistantthreadofroad，therewasapleasantSabbathpeacefulnessoneverything，whichitwasgoodtofeel。Itwouldhavebeenthebetterforanoldchurch；betterstillforsomeoldgraves；butasitwas，awholesomereposeandtranquillitypervadedthescene，whichaftertherestlessoceanandthehurriedcity，hadadoublygratefulinfluenceonthespirits。 Wewentonnextmorning，stillbyrailroad，toSpringfield。FromthatplacetoHartford，whitherwewerebound，isadistanceofonlyfive-and-twentymiles，butatthattimeoftheyeartheroadsweresobadthatthejourneywouldprobablyhaveoccupiedtenortwelvehours。Fortunately，however，thewinterhavingbeenunusuallymild，theConnecticutRiverwas\'open，\'or，inotherwords，notfrozen。Thecaptainofasmallsteamboatwasgoingtomakehisfirsttripfortheseasonthatday(thesecondFebruarytrip，Ibelieve，withinthememoryofman)，andonlywaitedforustogoonboard。Accordingly，wewentonboard，withaslittledelayasmightbe。Hewasasgoodashisword，andstarteddirectly。 Itcertainlywasnotcalledasmallsteamboatwithoutreason。I omittedtoaskthequestion，butIshouldthinkitmusthavebeenofabouthalfaponypower。Mr。Paap，thecelebratedDwarf，mighthavelivedanddiedhappilyinthecabin，whichwasfittedwithcommonsash-windowslikeanordinarydwelling-house。Thesewindowshadbright-redcurtains，too，hungonslackstringsacrossthelowerpanes；sothatitlookedliketheparlourofaLilliputianpublic-house，whichhadgotafloatinafloodorsomeotherwateraccident，andwasdriftingnobodyknewwhere。Buteveninthischambertherewasarocking-chair。Itwouldbeimpossibletogetonanywhere，inAmerica，withoutarocking-chair。Iamafraidtotellhowmanyfeetshortthisvesselwas，orhowmanyfeetnarrow: toapplythewordslengthandwidthtosuchmeasurementwouldbeacontradictioninterms。ButImaystatethatweallkeptthemiddleofthedeck，lesttheboatshouldunexpectedlytipover；andthatthemachinery，bysomesurprisingprocessofcondensation，workedbetweenitandthekeel:thewholeformingawarmsandwich，aboutthreefeetthick。 ItrainedalldayasIoncethoughtitneverdidrainanywhere，butintheHighlandsofScotland。Theriverwasfulloffloatingblocksofice，whichwereconstantlycrunchingandcrackingunderus；andthedepthofwater，inthecoursewetooktoavoidthelargermasses，carrieddownthemiddleoftheriverbythecurrent，didnotexceedafewinches。Nevertheless，wemovedonward，dexterously；andbeingwellwrappedup，badedefiancetotheweather，andenjoyedthejourney。TheConnecticutRiverisafinestream；andthebanksinsummer-timeare，Ihavenodoubt，beautiful；atallevents，Iwastoldsobyayoungladyinthecabin；andsheshouldbeajudgeofbeauty，ifthepossessionofaqualityincludetheappreciationofit，foramorebeautifulcreatureIneverlookedupon。 Aftertwohoursandahalfofthisoddtravelling(includingastoppageatasmalltown，whereweweresalutedbyagunconsiderablybiggerthanourownchimney)，wereachedHartford，andstraightwayrepairedtoanextremelycomfortablehotel:except，asusual，inthearticleofbedrooms，which，inalmosteveryplacewevisited，wereveryconducivetoearlyrising。 Wetarriedhere，fourdays。Thetownisbeautifullysituatedinabasinofgreenhills；thesoilisrich，well-wooded，andcarefullyimproved。ItistheseatofthelocallegislatureofConnecticut，whichsagebodyenacted，inbygonetimes，therenownedcodeof\'BlueLaws，\'invirtuewhereof，amongotherenlightenedprovisions，anycitizenwhocouldbeprovedtohavekissedhiswifeonSunday，waspunishable，Ibelieve，withthestocks。ToomuchoftheoldPuritanspiritexistsinthesepartstothepresenthour；butitsinfluencehasnottended，thatIknow，tomakethepeoplelesshardintheirbargains，ormoreequalintheirdealings。AsIneverheardofitsworkingthateffectanywhereelse，Iinferthatitneverwill，here。Indeed，Iamaccustomed，withreferencetogreatprofessionsandseverefaces，tojudgeofthegoodsoftheotherworldprettymuchasIjudgeofthegoodsofthis；andwheneverI seeadealerinsuchcommoditieswithtoogreatadisplayoftheminhiswindow，Idoubtthequalityofthearticlewithin。 InHartfordstandsthefamousoakinwhichthecharterofKingCharleswashidden。Itisnowinclosedinagentleman\'sgarden。 IntheStateHouseisthecharteritself。Ifoundthecourtsoflawhere，justthesameasatBoston；thepublicinstitutionsalmostasgood。TheInsaneAsylumisadmirablyconducted，andsoistheInstitutionfortheDeafandDumb。 Iverymuchquestionedwithinmyself，asIwalkedthroughtheInsaneAsylum，whetherIshouldhaveknowntheattendantsfromthepatients，butforthefewwordswhichpassedbetweentheformer，andtheDoctor，inreferencetothepersonsundertheircharge。OfcourseIlimitthisremarkmerelytotheirlooks；fortheconversationofthemadpeoplewasmadenough。 Therewasonelittle，primoldlady，ofverysmilingandgood- humouredappearance，whocamesidlinguptomefromtheendofalongpassage，andwithacurtseyofinexpressiblecondescension，propoundedthisunaccountableinquiry: \'DoesPontefractstillflourish，sir，uponthesoilofEngland？\' \'Hedoes，ma\'am，\'Irejoined。 \'Whenyoulastsawhim，sir，hewas-\' \'Well，ma\'am，\'saidI，\'extremelywell。Hebeggedmetopresenthiscompliments。Ineversawhimlookingbetter。\' Atthis，theoldladywasverymuchdelighted。Afterglancingatmeforamoment，asiftobequitesurethatIwasseriousinmyrespectfulair，shesidledbacksomepaces；sidledforwardagain； madeasuddenskip(atwhichIprecipitatelyretreatedasteportwo)；andsaid: \'Iamanantediluvian，sir。\' Ithoughtthebestthingtosaywas，thatIhadsuspectedasmuchfromthefirst。ThereforeIsaidso。 \'Itisanextremelyproudandpleasantthing，sir，tobeanantediluvian，\'saidtheoldlady。 \'Ishouldthinkitwas，ma\'am，\'Irejoined。 Theoldladykissedherhand，gaveanotherskip，smirkedandsidleddownthegalleryinamostextraordinarymanner，andambledgracefullyintoherownbed-chamber。 Inanotherpartofthebuilding，therewasamalepatientinbed； verymuchflushedandheated。 \'Well，\'saidhe，startingup，andpullingoffhisnight-cap:\'It\'sallsettledatlast。IhavearrangeditwithQueenVictoria。\' \'Arrangedwhat？\'askedtheDoctor。 \'Why，thatbusiness，\'passinghishandwearilyacrosshisforehead，\'aboutthesiegeofNewYork。\' \'Oh!\'saidI，likeamansuddenlyenlightened。Forhelookedatmeforananswer。 \'Yes。EveryhousewithoutasignalwillbefireduponbytheBritishtroops。Noharmwillbedonetotheothers。Noharmatall。Thosethatwanttobesafe，musthoistflags。That\'sallthey\'llhavetodo。Theymusthoistflags。\' Evenwhilehewasspeakingheseemed，Ithought，tohavesomefaintideathathistalkwasincoherent。Directlyhehadsaidthesewords，helaydownagain；gaveakindofagroan；andcoveredhishotheadwiththeblankets。 Therewasanother:ayoungman，whosemadnesswasloveandmusic。 Afterplayingontheaccordionamarchhehadcomposed，hewasveryanxiousthatIshouldwalkintohischamber，whichIimmediatelydid。 Bywayofbeingveryknowing，andhumouringhimtothetopofhisbent，Iwenttothewindow，whichcommandedabeautifulprospect，andremarked，withanaddressuponwhichIgreatlyplumedmyself: \'Whatadeliciouscountryyouhaveabouttheselodgingsofyours!\' \'Poh!\'saidhe，movinghisfingerscarelesslyoverthenotesofhisinstrument:\'WELLENOUGHFORSUCHANINSTITUTIONASTHIS!\' Idon\'tthinkIwaseversotakenabackinallmylife。 \'Icomeherejustforawhim，\'hesaidcoolly。\'That\'sall。\' \'Oh!That\'sall!\'saidI。 \'Yes。That\'sall。TheDoctor\'sasmartman。Hequiteentersintoit。It\'sajokeofmine。Ilikeitforatime。Youneedn\'tmentionit，butIthinkIshallgooutnextTuesday!\' IassuredhimthatIwouldconsiderourinterviewperfectlyconfidential；andrejoinedtheDoctor。Aswewerepassingthroughagalleryonourwayout，awell-dressedlady，ofquietandcomposedmanners，cameup，andprofferingaslipofpaperandapen，beggedthatIwouldobligeherwithanautograph，Icomplied，andweparted。 \'IthinkIrememberhavinghadafewinterviewslikethat，withladiesoutofdoors。IhopeSHEisnotmad？\' \'Yes。\' \'Onwhatsubject？Autographs？\' \'No。Shehearsvoicesintheair。\' \'Well!\'thoughtI，\'itwouldbewellifwecouldshutupafewfalseprophetsoftheselatertimes，whohaveprofessedtodothesame；andIshouldliketotrytheexperimentonaMormonistortwotobeginwith。\' Inthisplace，thereisthebestjailforuntriedoffendersintheworld。Thereisalsoaverywell-orderedStateprison，arrangeduponthesameplanasthatatBoston，exceptthathere，thereisalwaysasentryonthewallwithaloadedgun。Itcontainedatthattimeabouttwohundredprisoners。Aspotwasshownmeinthesleepingward，whereawatchmanwasmurderedsomeyearssinceinthedeadofnight，inadesperateattempttoescape，madebyaprisonerwhohadbrokenfromhiscell。Awoman，too，waspointedouttome，who，forthemurderofherhusband，hadbeenacloseprisonerforsixteenyears。 \'Doyouthink，\'Iaskedofmyconductor，\'thataftersoverylonganimprisonment，shehasanythoughtorhopeofeverregainingherliberty？\' \'Ohdearyes，\'heanswered。\'Tobesureshehas。\' \'Shehasnochanceofobtainingit，Isuppose？\' \'Well，Idon\'tknow:\'which，by-the-bye，isanationalanswer。 \'Herfriendsmistrusther。\' \'WhathaveTHEYtodowithit？\'Inaturallyinquired。 \'Well，theywon\'tpetition。\' \'Butiftheydid，theycouldn\'tgetherout，Isuppose？\' \'Well，notthefirsttime，perhaps，noryetthesecond，buttiringandwearyingforafewyearsmightdoit。\' \'Doesthateverdoit？\' \'Whyyes，that\'lldoitsometimes。Politicalfriends\'lldoitsometimes。It\'sprettyoftendone，onewayoranother。\' IshallalwaysentertainaverypleasantandgratefulrecollectionofHartford。Itisalovelyplace，andIhadmanyfriendsthere，whomIcanneverrememberwithindifference。WeleftitwithnolittleregretontheeveningofFridaythe11th，andtravelledthatnightbyrailroadtoNewHaven。Upontheway，theguardandIwereformallyintroducedtoeachother(asweusuallywereonsuchoccasions)，andexchangedavarietyofsmall-talk。WereachedNewHavenatabouteighto\'clock，afterajourneyofthreehours，andputupforthenightatthebestinn。 NewHaven，knownalsoastheCityofElms，isafinetown。Manyofitsstreets(asitsALIASsufficientlyimports)areplantedwithrowsofgrandoldelm-trees；andthesamenaturalornamentssurroundYaleCollege，anestablishmentofconsiderableeminenceandreputation。ThevariousdepartmentsofthisInstitutionareerectedinakindofparkorcommoninthemiddleofthetown，wheretheyaredimlyvisibleamongtheshadowingtrees。TheeffectisverylikethatofanoldcathedralyardinEngland；andwhentheirbranchesareinfullleaf，mustbeextremelypicturesque。 Eveninthewintertime，thesegroupsofwell-growntrees，clusteringamongthebusystreetsandhousesofathrivingcity，haveaveryquaintappearance:seemingtobringaboutakindofcompromisebetweentownandcountry；asifeachhadmettheotherhalf-way，andshakenhandsuponit；whichisatoncenovelandpleasant。 Afteranight\'srest，weroseearly，andingoodtimewentdowntothewharf，andonboardthepacketNewYorkFORNewYork。ThiswasthefirstAmericansteamboatofanysizethatIhadseen；andcertainlytoanEnglisheyeitwasinfinitelylesslikeasteamboatthanahugefloatingbath。Icouldhardlypersuademyself，indeed，butthatthebathingestablishmentoffWestminsterBridge，whichI leftababy，hadsuddenlygrowntoanenormoussize；runawayfromhome；andsetupinforeignpartsasasteamer。BeinginAmerica，too，whichourvagabondsdosoparticularlyfavour，itseemedthemoreprobable。 Thegreatdifferenceinappearancebetweenthesepacketsandours，is，thatthereissomuchofthemoutofthewater:themain-deckbeingenclosedonallsides，andfilledwithcasksandgoods，likeanysecondorthirdfloorinastackofwarehouses；andthepromenadeorhurricane-deckbeinga-topofthatagain。Apartofthemachineryisalwaysabovethisdeck；wheretheconnecting-rod，inastrongandloftyframe，isseenworkingawaylikeanirontop- sawyer。Thereisseldomanymastortackle:nothingaloftbuttwotallblackchimneys。Themanatthehelmisshutupinalittlehouseintheforepartoftheboat(thewheelbeingconnectedwiththerudderbyironchains，workingthewholelengthofthedeck)； andthepassengers，unlesstheweatherbeveryfineindeed，usuallycongregatebelow。Directlyyouhaveleftthewharf，allthelife，andstir，andbustleofapacketcease。Youwonderforalongtimehowshegoeson，forthereseemstobenobodyinchargeofher；andwhenanotherofthesedullmachinescomessplashingby，youfeelquiteindignantwithit，asasullencumbrous，ungraceful，unshiplikeleviathan:quiteforgettingthatthevesselyouareonboardof，isitsverycounterpart。 Thereisalwaysaclerk\'sofficeonthelowerdeck，whereyoupayyourfare；aladies\'cabin；baggageandstowagerooms；engineer\'sroom；andinshortagreatvarietyofperplexitieswhichrenderthediscoveryofthegentlemen\'scabin，amatterofsomedifficulty。 Itoftenoccupiesthewholelengthoftheboat(asitdidinthiscase)，andhasthreeorfourtiersofberthsoneachside。WhenI firstdescendedintothecabinoftheNewYork，itlooked，inmyunaccustomedeyes，aboutaslongastheBurlingtonArcade。 TheSoundwhichhastobecrossedonthispassage，isnotalwaysaverysafeorpleasantnavigation，andhasbeenthesceneofsomeunfortunateaccidents。Itwasawetmorning，andverymisty，andwesoonlostsightofland。Thedaywascalm，however，andbrightenedtowardsnoon。Afterexhausting(withgoodhelpfromafriend)thelarder，andthestockofbottledbeer，Ilaydowntosleep；beingverymuchtiredwiththefatiguesofyesterday。ButI wokefrommynapintimetohurryup，andseeHellGate，theHog\'sBack，theFryingPan，andothernotoriouslocalities，attractivetoallreadersoffamousDiedrichKnickerbocker\'sHistory。Wewerenowinanarrowchannel，withslopingbanksoneitherside，besprinkledwithpleasantvillas，andmaderefreshingtothesightbyturfandtrees。Soonweshotinquicksuccession，pastalight- house；amadhouse(howthelunaticsflunguptheircapsandroaredinsympathywiththeheadlongengineandthedrivingtide!)；ajail；andotherbuildings:andsoemergedintoanoblebay，whosewaterssparkledinthenowcloudlesssunshinelikeNature\'seyesturneduptoHeaven。 Thentherelaystretchedoutbeforeus，totheright，confusedheapsofbuildings，withhereandthereaspireorsteeple，lookingdownupontheherdbelow；andhereandthere，again，acloudoflazysmoke；andintheforegroundaforestofships\'masts，cheerywithflappingsailsandwavingflags。Crossingfromamongthemtotheoppositeshore，weresteamferry-boatsladenwithpeople，coaches，horses，waggons，baskets，boxes:crossedandrecrossedbyotherferry-boats:alltravellingtoandfro:andneveridle。 StatelyamongtheserestlessInsects，weretwoorthreelargeships，movingwithslowmajesticpace，ascreaturesofaprouderkind，disdainfuloftheirpunyjourneys，andmakingforthebroadsea。Beyond，wereshiningheights，andislandsintheglancingriver，andadistancescarcelylessblueandbrightthantheskyitseemedtomeet。Thecity\'shumandbuzz，theclinkingofcapstans，theringingofbells，thebarkingofdogs，theclatteringofwheels，tingledinthelisteningear。Allofwhichlifeandstir，comingacrossthestirringwater，caughtnewlifeandanimationfromitsfreecompanionship；and，sympathisingwithitsbuoyantspirits，glistenedasitseemedinsportuponitssurface，andhemmedthevesselround，andplashedthewaterhighabouthersides，and，floatinghergallantlyintothedock，flewoffagaintowelcomeothercomers，andspeedbeforethemtothebusyport。 CHAPTERVI-NEWYORK THEbeautifulmetropolisofAmericaisbynomeanssocleanacityasBoston，butmanyofitsstreetshavethesamecharacteristics； exceptthatthehousesarenotquitesofresh-coloured，thesign- boardsarenotquitesogaudy，thegildedlettersnotquitesogolden，thebricksnotquitesored，thestonenotquitesowhite，theblindsandarearailingsnotquitesogreen，theknobsandplatesuponthestreetdoorsnotquitesobrightandtwinkling。 Therearemanyby-streets，almostasneutralincleancolours，andpositiveindirtyones，asby-streetsinLondon；andthereisonequarter，commonlycalledtheFivePoints，which，inrespectoffilthandwretchedness，maybesafelybackedagainstSevenDials，oranyotherpartoffamedSt。Giles\'s。 Thegreatpromenadeandthoroughfare，asmostpeopleknow，isBroadway；awideandbustlingstreet，which，fromtheBatteryGardenstoitsoppositeterminationinacountryroad，maybefourmileslong。ShallwesitdowninanupperflooroftheCarltonHouseHotel(situatedinthebestpartofthismainarteryofNewYork)，andwhenwearetiredoflookingdownuponthelifebelow，sallyfortharm-in-arm，andminglewiththestream？ Warmweather!Thesunstrikesuponourheadsatthisopenwindow，asthoughitsrayswereconcentratedthroughaburning-glass；butthedayisinitszenith，andtheseasonanunusualone。WasthereeversuchasunnystreetasthisBroadway!Thepavementstonesarepolishedwiththetreadoffeetuntiltheyshineagain；theredbricksofthehousesmightbeyetinthedry，hotkilns；andtheroofsofthoseomnibuseslookasthough，ifwaterwerepouredonthem，theywouldhissandsmoke，andsmelllikehalf-quenchedfires。Nostintofomnibuseshere!Half-a-dozenhavegonebywithinasmanyminutes。Plentyofhackneycabsandcoachestoo； gigs，phaetons，large-wheeledtilburies，andprivatecarriages- ratherofaclumsymake，andnotverydifferentfromthepublicvehicles，butbuiltfortheheavyroadsbeyondthecitypavement。 Negrocoachmenandwhite；instrawhats，blackhats，whitehats，glazedcaps，furcaps；incoatsofdrab，black，brown，green，blue，nankeen，stripedjeanandlinen；andthere，inthatoneinstance(lookwhileitpasses，oritwillbetoolate)，insuitsoflivery。 Somesouthernrepublicanthat，whoputshisblacksinuniform，andswellswithSultanpompandpower。Yonder，wherethatphaetonwiththewell-clippedpairofgrayshasstopped-standingattheirheadsnow-isaYorkshiregroom，whohasnotbeenverylongintheseparts，andlookssorrowfullyroundforacompanionpairoftop-boots，whichhemaytraversethecityhalfayearwithoutmeeting。Heavensavetheladies，howtheydress!Wehaveseenmorecoloursinthesetenminutes，thanweshouldhaveseenelsewhere，inasmanydays。Whatvariousparasols!whatrainbowsilksandsatins!whatpinkingofthinstockings，andpinchingofthinshoes，andflutteringofribbonsandsilktassels，anddisplayofrichcloakswithgaudyhoodsandlinings!Theyounggentlemenarefond，yousee，ofturningdowntheirshirt-collarsandcultivatingtheirwhiskers，especiallyunderthechin；buttheycannotapproachtheladiesintheirdressorbearing，being，tosaythetruth，humanityofquiteanothersort。Byronsofthedeskandcounter，passon，andletusseewhatkindofmenthosearebehindye:thosetwolabourersinholidayclothes，ofwhomonecarriesinhishandacrumpledscrapofpaperfromwhichhetriestospelloutahardname，whiletheotherlooksaboutforitonallthedoorsandwindows。 Irishmenboth!Youmightknowthem，iftheyweremasked，bytheirlong-tailedbluecoatsandbrightbuttons，andtheirdrabtrousers，whichtheywearlikemenwellusedtoworkingdresses，whoareeasyinnoothers。Itwouldbehardtokeepyourmodelrepublicsgoing，withoutthecountrymenandcountrywomenofthosetwolabourers。 Forwhoelsewoulddig，anddelve，anddrudge，anddodomesticwork，andmakecanalsandroads，andexecutegreatlinesofInternalImprovement!Irishmenboth，andsorelypuzzledtoo，tofindoutwhattheyseek。Letusgodown，andhelpthem，fortheloveofhome，andthatspiritoflibertywhichadmitsofhonestservicetohonestmen，andhonestworkforhonestbread，nomatterwhatitbe。 That\'swell!Wehavegotattherightaddressatlast，thoughitiswritteninstrangecharacterstruly，andmighthavebeenscrawledwiththeblunthandleofthespadethewriterbetterknowstheuseof，thanapen。Theirwayliesyonder，butwhatbusinesstakesthemthere？Theycarrysavings:tohoardup？No。Theyarebrothers，thosemen。Onecrossedtheseaalone，andworkingveryhardforonehalfyear，andlivingharder，savedfundsenoughtobringtheotherout。Thatdone，theyworkedtogethersidebyside，contentedlysharinghardlabourandhardlivingforanotherterm，andthentheirsisterscame，andthenanotherbrother，andlastly，theiroldmother。Andwhatnow？Why，thepooroldcroneisrestlessinastrangeland，andyearnstolayherbones，shesays，amongherpeopleintheoldgraveyardathome:andsotheygotopayherpassageback:andGodhelpherandthem，andeverysimpleheart，andallwhoturntotheJerusalemoftheiryoungerdays，andhaveanaltar-fireuponthecoldhearthoftheirfathers。 Thisnarrowthoroughfare，bakingandblisteringinthesun，isWallStreet:theStockExchangeandLombardStreetofNewYork。Manyarapidfortunehasbeenmadeinthisstreet，andmanyanolessrapidruin。Someoftheseverymerchantswhomyouseehangingaboutherenow，havelockedupmoneyintheirstrong-boxes，likethemanintheArabianNights，andopeningthemagain，havefoundbutwitheredleaves。Below，herebythewater-side，wherethebowspritsofshipsstretchacrossthefootway，andalmostthrustthemselvesintothewindows，liethenobleAmericanvesselswhichhavingmadetheirPacketServicethefinestintheworld。Theyhavebroughthithertheforeignerswhoaboundinallthestreets: not，perhaps，thattherearemorehere，thaninothercommercialcities；butelsewhere，theyhaveparticularhaunts，andyoumustfindthemout；here，theypervadethetown。 WemustcrossBroadwayagain；gainingsomerefreshmentfromtheheat，inthesightofthegreatblocksofcleanicewhicharebeingcarriedintoshopsandbar-rooms；andthepine-applesandwater- melonsprofuselydisplayedforsale。Finestreetsofspacioushouseshere，yousee!-WallStreethasfurnishedanddismantledmanyofthemveryoften-andhereadeepgreenleafysquare。Besurethatisahospitablehousewithinmatestobeaffectionatelyrememberedalways，wheretheyhavetheopendoorandprettyshowofplantswithin，andwherethechildwithlaughingeyesispeepingoutofwindowatthelittledogbelow。Youwonderwhatmaybetheuseofthistallflagstaffintheby-street，withsomethinglikeLiberty\'shead-dressonitstop:sodoI。Butthereisapassionfortallflagstaffshereabout，andyoumayseeitstwinbrotherinfiveminutes，ifyouhaveamind。 AgainacrossBroadway，andso-passingfromthemany-colouredcrowdandglitteringshops-intoanotherlongmainstreet，theBowery。Arailroadyonder，see，wheretwostouthorsestrotalong，drawingascoreortwoofpeopleandagreatwoodenark，withease。