第6章

Thestoresarepoorerhere；thepassengerslessgay。Clothesready-made，andmeatready-cooked，aretobeboughtintheseparts； andthelivelywhirlofcarriagesisexchangedforthedeeprumbleofcartsandwaggons。Thesesignswhicharesoplentiful，inshapelikeriverbuoys，orsmallballoons，hoistedbycordstopoles，anddanglingthere，announce，asyoumayseebylookingup，\'OYSTERSIN EVERYSTYLE。\'Theytemptthehungrymostatnight，forthendullcandlesglimmeringinside，illuminatethesedaintywords，andmakethemouthsofidlerswater，astheyreadandlinger。 Whatisthisdismal-frontedpileofbastardEgyptian，likeanenchanter\'spalaceinamelodrama!-afamousprison，calledTheTombs。Shallwegoin？ So。Along，narrow，loftybuilding，stove-heatedasusual，withfourgalleries，oneabovetheother，goingroundit，andcommunicatingbystairs。Betweenthetwosidesofeachgallery，andinitscentre，abridge，forthegreaterconvenienceofcrossing。Oneachofthesebridgessitsaman:dozingorreading，ortalkingtoanidlecompanion。Oneachtier，aretwooppositerowsofsmallirondoors。Theylooklikefurnace-doors，butarecoldandblack，asthoughthefireswithinhadallgoneout。Sometwoorthreeareopen，andwomen，withdroopingheadsbentdown，aretalkingtotheinmates。Thewholeislightedbyaskylight，butitisfastclosed；andfromtherooftheredangle，limpanddrooping，twouselesswindsails。 Amanwithkeysappears，toshowusround。Agood-lookingfellow，and，inhisway，civilandobliging。 \'Arethoseblackdoorsthecells？\' \'Yes。\' \'Aretheyallfull？\' \'Well，they\'reprettynighfull，andthat\'safact，andnotwowaysaboutit。\' \'Thoseatthebottomareunwholesome，surely？\' \'Why，weDOonlyputcolouredpeoplein\'em。That\'sthetruth。\' \'Whendotheprisonerstakeexercise？\' \'Well，theydowithoutitprettymuch。\' \'Dotheyneverwalkintheyard？\' \'Considerableseldom。\' \'Sometimes，Isuppose？\' \'Well，it\'sraretheydo。Theykeepprettybrightwithoutit。\' \'Butsupposeamanwerehereforatwelvemonth。Iknowthisisonlyaprisonforcriminalswhoarechargedwithgraveoffences，whiletheyareawaitingtheirtrial，orunderremand，butthelawhereaffordscriminalsmanymeansofdelay。Whatwithmotionsfornewtrials，andinarrestofjudgment，andwhatnot，aprisonermightbeherefortwelvemonths，Itakeit，mighthenot？\' \'Well，Iguesshemight。\' \'Doyoumeantosaythatinallthattimehewouldnevercomeoutatthatlittleirondoor，forexercise？\' \'Hemightwalksome，perhaps-notmuch。\' \'Willyouopenoneofthedoors？\' \'All，ifyoulike。\' Thefasteningsjarandrattle，andoneofthedoorsturnsslowlyonitshinges。Letuslookin。Asmallbarecell，intowhichthelightentersthroughahighchinkinthewall。Thereisarudemeansofwashing，atable，andabedstead。Uponthelatter，sitsamanofsixty；reading。Helooksupforamoment；givesanimpatientdoggedshake；andfixeshiseyesuponhisbookagain。Aswewithdrawourheads，thedoorclosesonhim，andisfastenedasbefore。Thismanhasmurderedhiswife，andwillprobablybehanged。 \'Howlonghashebeenhere？\' \'Amonth。\' \'Whenwillhebetried？\' \'Nextterm。\' \'Whenisthat？\' \'Nextmonth。\' \'InEngland，ifamanbeundersentenceofdeath，evenhehasairandexerciseatcertainperiodsoftheday。\' \'Possible？\' Withwhatstupendousanduntranslatablecoolnesshesaysthis，andhowlounginglyheleadsontothewomen\'sside:making，ashegoes，akindofironcastanetofthekeyandthestair-rail! Eachcelldooronthissidehasasquareapertureinit。Someofthewomenpeepanxiouslythroughitatthesoundoffootsteps； othersshrinkawayinshame-Forwhatoffencecanthatlonelychild，oftenortwelveyearsold，beshutuphere？Oh!thatboy？ Heisthesonoftheprisonerwesawjustnow；isawitnessagainsthisfather；andisdetainedhereforsafekeeping，untilthetrial； that\'sall。 Butitisadreadfulplaceforthechildtopassthelongdaysandnightsin。Thisisratherhardtreatmentforayoungwitness，isitnot？-Whatsaysourconductor？ \'Well，itan\'taveryrowdylife，andTHAT\'Safact!\' Againheclinkshismetalcastanet，andleadsusleisurelyaway。I haveaquestiontoaskhimaswego。 \'Pray，whydotheycallthisplaceTheTombs？\' \'Well，it\'sthecantname。\' \'Iknowitis。Why？\' \'Somesuicideshappenedhere，whenitwasfirstbuilt。Iexpectitcomeaboutfromthat。\' \'Isawjustnow，thatthatman\'sclotheswerescatteredaboutthefloorofhiscell。Don\'tyouobligetheprisonerstobeorderly，andputsuchthingsaway？\' \'Whereshouldtheyput\'em？\' \'Notonthegroundsurely。Whatdoyousaytohangingthemup？\' Hestopsandlooksroundtoemphasisehisanswer: \'Why，Isaythat\'sjustit。WhentheyhadhookstheyWOULDhangthemselves，sothey\'retakenoutofeverycell，andthere\'sonlythemarksleftwheretheyusedtobe!\' Theprison-yardinwhichhepausesnow，hasbeenthesceneofterribleperformances。Intothisnarrow，grave-likeplace，menarebroughtouttodie。Thewretchedcreaturestandsbeneaththegibbetontheground；theropeabouthisneck；andwhenthesignisgiven，aweightatitsotherendcomesrunningdown，andswingshimupintotheair-acorpse。 Thelawrequiresthattherebepresentatthisdismalspectacle，thejudge，thejury，andcitizenstotheamountoftwenty-five。 Fromthecommunityitishidden。Tothedissoluteandbad，thethingremainsafrightfulmystery。Betweenthecriminalandthem，theprison-wallisinterposedasathickgloomyveil。Itisthecurtaintohisbedofdeath，hiswinding-sheet，andgrave。Fromhimitshutsoutlife，andallthemotivestounrepentinghardihoodinthatlasthour，whichitsmeresightandpresenceisoftenall- sufficienttosustain。Therearenoboldeyestomakehimbold；noruffianstoupholdaruffian\'snamebefore。Allbeyondthepitilessstonewall，isunknownspace。 Letusgoforthagainintothecheerfulstreets。 OncemoreinBroadway!Herearethesameladiesinbrightcolours，walkingtoandfro，inpairsandsingly；yondertheverysamelightblueparasolwhichpassedandrepassedthehotel-windowtwentytimeswhileweweresittingthere。Wearegoingtocrosshere。 Takecareofthepigs。Twoportlysowsaretrottingupbehindthiscarriage，andaselectpartyofhalf-a-dozengentlemenhogshavejustnowturnedthecorner。 Hereisasolitaryswinelounginghomewardbyhimself。Hehasonlyoneear；havingpartedwiththeothertovagrant-dogsinthecourseofhiscityrambles。Buthegetsonverywellwithoutit；andleadsaroving，gentlemanly，vagabondkindoflife，somewhatansweringtothatofourclub-menathome。Heleaveshislodgingseverymorningatacertainhour，throwshimselfuponthetown，getsthroughhisdayinsomemannerquitesatisfactorytohimself，andregularlyappearsatthedoorofhisownhouseagainatnight，likethemysteriousmasterofGilBlas。Heisafree-and-easy，careless，indifferentkindofpig，havingaverylargeacquaintanceamongotherpigsofthesamecharacter，whomheratherknowsbysightthanconversation，asheseldomtroubleshimselftostopandexchangecivilities，butgoesgruntingdownthekennel，turningupthenewsandsmall-talkofthecityintheshapeofcabbage-stalksandoffal，andbearingnotailsbuthisown:whichisaveryshortone，forhisoldenemies，thedogs，havebeenatthattoo，andhavelefthimhardlyenoughtoswearby。Heisineveryrespectarepublicanpig，goingwhereverhepleases，andminglingwiththebestsociety，onanequal，ifnotsuperiorfooting，foreveryonemakeswaywhenheappears，andthehaughtiestgivehimthewall，ifhepreferit。Heisagreatphilosopher，andseldommoved，unlessbythedogsbeforementioned。Sometimes，indeed，youmayseehissmalleyetwinklingonaslaughteredfriend，whosecarcasegarnishesabutcher\'sdoor-post，buthegruntsout\'Suchislife: allfleshispork!\'burieshisnoseinthemireagain，andwaddlesdownthegutter:comfortinghimselfwiththereflectionthatthereisonesnoutthelesstoanticipatestraycabbage-stalks，atanyrate。 Theyarethecityscavengers，thesepigs。Uglybrutestheyare； having，forthemostpart，scantybrownbacks，likethelidsofoldhorsehairtrunks:spottedwithunwholesomeblackblotches。Theyhavelong，gauntlegs，too，andsuchpeakedsnouts，thatifoneofthemcouldbepersuadedtositforhisprofile，nobodywouldrecogniseitforapig\'slikeness。Theyareneverattendedupon，orfed，ordriven，orcaught，butarethrownupontheirownresourcesinearlylife，andbecomepreternaturallyknowinginconsequence。Everypigknowswherehelives，muchbetterthananybodycouldtellhim。Atthishour，justaseveningisclosingin，youwillseethemroamingtowardsbedbyscores，eatingtheirwaytothelast。Occasionally，someyouthamongthemwhohasover- eatenhimself，orhasbeenworriedbydogs，trotsshrinkinglyhomeward，likeaprodigalson:butthisisararecase:perfectself-possessionandself-reliance，andimmovablecomposure，beingtheirforemostattributes。 Thestreetsandshopsarelightednow；andastheeyetravelsdownthelongthoroughfare，dottedwithbrightjetsofgas，itisremindedofOxfordStreet，orPiccadilly。Hereandthereaflightofbroadstonecellar-stepsappears，andapaintedlampdirectsyoutotheBowlingSaloon，orTen-Pinalley；Ten-Pinsbeingagameofmingledchanceandskill，inventedwhenthelegislaturepassedanactforbiddingNine-Pins。Atotherdownwardflightsofsteps，areotherlamps，markingthewhereaboutsofoyster-cellars-pleasantretreats，sayI:notonlybyreasonoftheirwonderfulcookeryofoysters，prettynighaslargeascheese-plates(orforthydearsake，heartiestofGreekProfessors!)，butbecauseofallkindsofcatersoffish，orflesh，orfowl，intheselatitudes，theswallowersofoystersalonearenotgregarious；butsubduingthemselves，asitwere，tothenatureofwhattheyworkin，andcopyingthecoynessofthethingtheyeat，dositapartincurtainedboxes，andconsortbytwos，notbytwohundreds。 Buthowquietthestreetsare!Aretherenoitinerantbands；nowindorstringedinstruments？No，notone。Byday，aretherenoPunches，Fantoccini，Dancing-dogs，Jugglers，Conjurers，Orchestrinas，orevenBarrel-organs？No，notone。Yes，Irememberone。Onebarrel-organandadancing-monkey-sportivebynature，butfastfadingintoadull，lumpishmonkey，oftheUtilitarianschool。Beyondthat，nothinglively；no，notsomuchasawhitemouseinatwirlingcage。 Aretherenoamusements？Yes。Thereisalecture-roomacrosstheway，fromwhichthatglareoflightproceeds，andtheremaybeeveningservicefortheladiesthriceaweek，oroftener。Fortheyounggentlemen，thereisthecounting-house，thestore，thebar- room:thelatter，asyoumayseethroughthesewindows，prettyfull。Hark!totheclinkingsoundofhammersbreakinglumpsofice，andtothecoolgurglingofthepoundedbits，as，intheprocessofmixing，theyarepouredfromglasstoglass!Noamusements？Whatarethesesuckersofcigarsandswallowersofstrongdrinks，whosehatsandlegsweseeineverypossiblevarietyoftwist，doing，butamusingthemselves？Whatarethefiftynewspapers，whichthoseprecociousurchinsarebawlingdownthestreet，andwhicharekeptfiledwithin，whataretheybutamusements？Notvapid，waterishamusements，butgoodstrongstuff； dealinginroundabuseandblackguardnames；pullingofftheroofsofprivatehouses，astheHaltingDevildidinSpain；pimpingandpanderingforalldegreesofvicioustaste，andgorgingwithcoinedliesthemostvoraciousmaw；imputingtoeverymaninpubliclifethecoarsestandthevilestmotives；scaringawayfromthestabbedandprostratebody-politic，everySamaritanofclearconscienceandgooddeeds；andsettingon，withyellandwhistleandtheclappingoffoulhands，thevilestverminandworstbirdsofprey-Noamusements! Letusgoonagain；andpassingthiswildernessofanhotelwithstoresaboutitsbase，likesomeContinentaltheatre，ortheLondonOperaHouseshornofitscolonnade，plungeintotheFivePoints。 Butitisneedful，first，thatwetakeasourescortthesetwoheadsofthepolice，whomyouwouldknowforsharpandwell-trainedofficersifyoumetthemintheGreatDesert。Sotrueitis，thatcertainpursuits，wherevercarriedon，willstampmenwiththesamecharacter。Thesetwomighthavebeenbegotten，born，andbred，inBowStreet。 Wehaveseennobeggarsinthestreetsbynightorday；butofotherkindsofstrollers，plenty。Poverty，wretchedness，andvice，arerifeenoughwherewearegoingnow。 Thisistheplace:thesenarrowways，divergingtotherightandleft，andreekingeverywherewithdirtandfilth。Suchlivesasareledhere，bearthesamefruitshereaselsewhere。Thecoarseandbloatedfacesatthedoors，havecounterpartsathome，andallthewideworldover。Debaucheryhasmadetheveryhousesprematurelyold。Seehowtherottenbeamsaretumblingdown，andhowthepatchedandbrokenwindowsseemtoscowldimly，likeeyesthathavebeenhurtindrunkenfrays。Manyofthosepigslivehere。Dotheyeverwonderwhytheirmasterswalkuprightinlieuofgoingonall-fours？andwhytheytalkinsteadofgrunting？ Sofar，nearlyeveryhouseisalowtavern；andonthebar-roomwalls，arecolouredprintsofWashington，andQueenVictoriaofEngland，andtheAmericanEagle。Amongthepigeon-holesthatholdthebottles，arepiecesofplate-glassandcolouredpaper，forthereis，insomesort，atastefordecoration，evenhere。Andasseamenfrequentthesehaunts，therearemaritimepicturesbythedozen:ofpartingsbetweensailorsandtheirlady-loves，portraitsofWilliam，oftheballad，andhisBlack-EyedSusan；ofWillWatch，theBoldSmuggler；ofPaulJonesthePirate，andthelike:onwhichthepaintedeyesofQueenVictoria，andofWashingtontoboot，restinasstrangecompanionship，asonmostofthescenesthatareenactedintheirwonderingpresence。 Whatplaceisthis，towhichthesqualidstreetconductsus？A kindofsquareofleproushouses，someofwhichareattainableonlybycrazywoodenstairswithout。Whatliesbeyondthistotteringflightofsteps，thatcreakbeneathourtread？-amiserableroom，lightedbyonedimcandle，anddestituteofallcomfort，savethatwhichmaybehiddeninawretchedbed。Besideit，sitsaman:hiselbowsonhisknees:hisforeheadhiddeninhishands。\'Whatailsthatman？\'askstheforemostofficer。\'Fever，\'hesullenlyreplies，withoutlookingup。Conceivethefanciesofafeverishbrain，insuchaplaceasthis! Ascendthesepitch-darkstairs，heedfulofafalsefootingonthetremblingboards，andgropeyourwaywithmeintothiswolfishden，whereneitherrayoflightnorbreathofair，appearstocome。A negrolad，startledfromhissleepbytheofficer\'svoice-heknowsitwell-butcomfortedbyhisassurancethathehasnotcomeonbusiness，officiouslybestirshimselftolightacandle。Thematchflickersforamoment，andshowsgreatmoundsofdustyragsupontheground；thendiesawayandleavesadenserdarknessthanbefore，iftherecanbedegreesinsuchextremes。Hestumblesdownthestairsandpresentlycomesback，shadingaflaringtaperwithhishand。Thenthemoundsofragsareseentobeastir，andriseslowlyup，andtheflooriscoveredwithheapsofnegrowomen，wakingfromtheirsleep:theirwhiteteethchattering，andtheirbrighteyesglisteningandwinkingonallsideswithsurpriseandfear，likethecountlessrepetitionofoneastonishedAfricanfaceinsomestrangemirror。 Mountuptheseotherstairswithnolesscaution(therearetrapsandpitfallshere，forthosewhoarenotsowellescortedasourselves)intothehousetop；wherethebarebeamsandraftersmeetoverhead，andcalmnightlooksdownthroughthecrevicesintheroof。Openthedoorofoneofthesecrampedhutchesfullofsleepingnegroes。Pah!Theyhaveacharcoalfirewithin；thereisasmellofsingeingclothes，orflesh，soclosetheygatherroundthebrazier；andvapoursissueforththatblindandsuffocate。 Fromeverycorner，asyouglanceaboutyouinthesedarkretreats，somefigurecrawlshalf-awakened，asifthejudgment-hourwerenearathand，andeveryobscenegraveweregivingupitsdead。Wheredogswouldhowltolie，women，andmen，andboysslinkofftosleep，forcingthedislodgedratstomoveawayinquestofbetterlodgings。 Heretooarelanesandalleys，pavedwithmudknee-deep，undergroundchambers，wheretheydanceandgame；thewallsbedeckedwithroughdesignsofships，andforts，andflags，andAmericaneaglesoutofnumber:ruinedhouses，opentothestreet，whence，throughwidegapsinthewalls，otherruinsloomupontheeye，asthoughtheworldofviceandmiseryhadnothingelsetoshow: hideoustenementswhichtaketheirnamefromrobberyandmurder: allthatisloathsome，drooping，anddecayedishere。 Ourleaderhashishanduponthelatchof\'Almack\'s，\'andcallstousfromthebottomofthesteps；fortheassembly-roomoftheFivePointfashionablesisapproachedbyadescent。Shallwegoin？Itisbutamoment。 Heyday!thelandladyofAlmack\'sthrives!Abuxomfatmulattowoman，withsparklingeyes，whoseheadisdaintilyornamentedwithahandkerchiefofmanycolours。Noristhelandlordmuchbehindherinhisfinery，beingattiredinasmartbluejacket，likeaship\'ssteward，withathickgoldringuponhislittlefinger，androundhisneckagleaminggoldenwatch-guard。Howgladheistoseeus!Whatwillwepleasetocallfor？Adance？Itshallbedonedirectly，sir:\'aregularbreak-down。\' Thecorpulentblackfiddler，andhisfriendwhoplaysthetambourine，stampupontheboardingofthesmallraisedorchestrainwhichtheysit，andplayalivelymeasure。Fiveorsixcouplecomeuponthefloor，marshalledbyalivelyyoungnegro，whoisthewitoftheassembly，andthegreatestdancerknown。Heneverleavesoffmakingqueerfaces，andisthedelightofalltherest，whogrinfromeartoearincessantly。Amongthedancersaretwoyoungmulattogirls，withlarge，black，droopingeyes，andhead- gearafterthefashionofthehostess，whoareasshy，orfeigntobe，asthoughtheyneverdancedbefore，andsolookdownbeforethevisitors，thattheirpartnerscanseenothingbutthelongfringedlashes。 Butthedancecommences。Everygentlemansetsaslongashelikestotheoppositelady，andtheoppositeladytohim，andallaresolongaboutitthatthesportbeginstolanguish，whensuddenlythelivelyherodashesintotherescue。Instantlythefiddlergrins，andgoesatittoothandnail；thereisnewenergyinthetambourine；newlaughterinthedancers；newsmilesinthelandlady；newconfidenceinthelandlord；newbrightnessintheverycandles。 Singleshuffle，doubleshuffle，cutandcross-cut；snappinghisfingers，rollinghiseyes，turninginhisknees，presentingthebacksofhislegsinfront，spinningaboutonhistoesandheelslikenothingbuttheman\'sfingersonthetambourine；dancingwithtwoleftlegs，tworightlegs，twowoodenlegs，twowirelegs，twospringlegs-allsortsoflegsandnolegs-whatisthistohim？ Andinwhatwalkoflife，ordanceoflife，doesmanevergetsuchstimulatingapplauseasthundersabouthim，when，havingdancedhispartneroffherfeet，andhimselftoo，hefinishesbyleapinggloriouslyonthebar-counter，andcallingforsomethingtodrink，withthechuckleofamillionofcounterfeitJimCrows，inoneinimitablesound! Theair，eveninthesedistemperedparts，isfreshafterthestiflingatmosphereofthehouses；andnow，asweemergeintoabroaderstreet，itblowsuponuswithapurerbreath，andthestarslookbrightagain。HereareTheTombsoncemore。Thecitywatch- houseisapartofthebuilding。Itfollowsnaturallyonthesightswehavejustleft。Letusseethat，andthentobed。 What!doyouthrustyourcommonoffendersagainstthepolicedisciplineofthetown，intosuchholesasthese？Domenandwomen，againstwhomnocrimeisproved，liehereallnightinperfectdarkness，surroundedbythenoisomevapourswhichencirclethatflagginglampyoulightuswith，andbreathingthisfilthyandoffensivestench!Why，suchindecentanddisgustingdungeonsasthesecells，wouldbringdisgraceuponthemostdespoticempireintheworld!Lookatthem，man-you，whoseethemeverynight，andkeepthekeys。Doyouseewhattheyare？Doyouknowhowdrainsaremadebelowthestreets，andwhereinthesehumansewersdiffer，exceptinbeingalwaysstagnant？ Well，hedon\'tknow。Hehashadfive-and-twentyyoungwomenlockedupinthisverycellatonetime，andyou\'dhardlyrealisewhathandsomefacestherewereamong\'em。 InGod\'sname!shutthedooruponthewretchedcreaturewhoisinitnow，andputitsscreenbeforeaplace，quiteunsurpassedinallthevice，neglect，anddevilry，oftheworstoldtowninEurope。 Arepeoplereallyleftallnight，untried，inthoseblacksties？- Everynight。Thewatchissetatsevenintheevening。Themagistrateopenshiscourtatfiveinthemorning。Thatistheearliesthouratwhichthefirstprisonercanbereleased；andifanofficerappearagainsthim，heisnottakenouttillnineo\'clockorten-Butifanyoneamongthemdieintheinterval，asonemandid，notlongago？Thenheishalf-eatenbytheratsinanhour\'stime；asthatmanwas；andthereanend。 Whatisthisintolerabletollingofgreatbells，andcrashingofwheels，andshoutinginthedistance？Afire。Andwhatthatdeepredlightintheoppositedirection？Anotherfire。Andwhatthesecharredandblackenedwallswestandbefore？Adwellingwhereafirehasbeen。Itwasmorethanhinted，inanofficialreport，notlongago，thatsomeoftheseconflagrationswerenotwhollyaccidental，andthatspeculationandenterprisefoundafieldofexertion，eveninflames:butbethisasitmay，therewasafirelastnight，therearetwoto-night，andyoumaylayanevenwagertherewillbeatleastone，to-morrow。So，carryingthatwithusforourcomfort，letussay，Goodnight，andclimbup-stairstobed。 Oneday，duringmystayinNewYork，IpaidavisittothedifferentpublicinstitutionsonLongIsland，orRhodeIsland:I forgetwhich。OneofthemisaLunaticAsylum。Thebuildingishandsome；andisremarkableforaspaciousandelegantstaircase。 Thewholestructureisnotyetfinished，butitisalreadyoneofconsiderablesizeandextent，andiscapableofaccommodatingaverylargenumberofpatients。 IcannotsaythatIderivedmuchcomfortfromtheinspectionofthischarity。Thedifferentwardsmighthavebeencleanerandbetterordered；Isawnothingofthatsalutarysystemwhichhadimpressedmesofavourablyelsewhere；andeverythinghadalounging，listless，madhouseair，whichwasverypainful。Themopingidiot，coweringdownwithlongdishevelledhair；thegibberingmaniac，withhishideouslaughandpointedfinger；thevacanteye，thefiercewildface，thegloomypickingofthehandsandlips，andmunchingofthenails:theretheywereall，withoutdisguise，innakeduglinessandhorror。Inthedining-room，abare，dull，drearyplace，withnothingfortheeyetorestonbuttheemptywalls，awomanwaslockedupalone。Shewasbent，theytoldme，oncommittingsuicide。Ifanythingcouldhavestrengthenedherinherresolution，itwouldcertainlyhavebeentheinsupportablemonotonyofsuchanexistence。 Theterriblecrowdwithwhichthesehallsandgallerieswerefilled，soshockedme，thatIabridgedmystaywithintheshortestlimits，anddeclinedtoseethatportionofthebuildinginwhichtherefractoryandviolentwereundercloserrestraint。IhavenodoubtthatthegentlemanwhopresidedoverthisestablishmentatthetimeIwriteof，wascompetenttomanageit，andhaddoneallinhispowertopromoteitsusefulness:butwillitbebelievedthatthemiserablestrifeofPartyfeelingiscarriedevenintothissadrefugeofafflictedanddegradedhumanity？Willitbebelievedthattheeyeswhicharetowatchoverandcontrolthewanderingsofmindsonwhichthemostdreadfulvisitationtowhichournatureisexposedhasfallen，mustweartheglassesofsomewretchedsideinPolitics？Willitbebelievedthatthegovernorofsuchahouseasthis，isappointed，anddeposed，andchangedperpetually，asPartiesfluctuateandvary，andastheirdespicableweathercocksareblownthiswayorthat？Ahundredtimesineveryweek，somenewmostpaltryexhibitionofthatnarrow-mindedandinjuriousPartySpirit，whichistheSimoomofAmerica，sickeningandblightingeverythingofwholesomelifewithinitsreach，wasforceduponmynotice；butIneverturnedmybackuponitwithfeelingsofsuchdeepdisgustandmeasurelesscontempt，aswhenI crossedthethresholdofthismadhouse。 AtashortdistancefromthisbuildingisanothercalledtheAlmsHouse，thatistosay，theworkhouseofNewYork。ThisisalargeInstitutionalso:lodging，Ibelieve，whenIwasthere，nearlyathousandpoor。Itwasbadlyventilated，andbadlylighted；wasnottooclean；-andimpressedme，onthewhole，veryuncomfortably。 ButitmustberememberedthatNewYork，asagreatemporiumofcommerce，andasaplaceofgeneralresort，notonlyfromallpartsoftheStates，butfrommostpartsoftheworld，hasalwaysalargepauperpopulationtoprovidefor；andlabours，therefore，underpeculiardifficultiesinthisrespect。NormustitbeforgottenthatNewYorkisalargetown，andthatinalllargetownsavastamountofgoodandevilisintermixedandjumbleduptogether。 InthesameneighbourhoodistheFarm，whereyoungorphansarenursedandbred。Ididnotseeit，butIbelieveitiswellconducted；andIcanthemoreeasilycreditit，fromknowinghowmindfultheyusuallyare，inAmerica，ofthatbeautifulpassageintheLitanywhichremembersallsickpersonsandyoungchildren。 IwastakentotheseInstitutionsbywater，inaboatbelongingtotheIslandjail，androwedbyacrewofprisoners，whoweredressedinastripeduniformofblackandbuff，inwhichtheylookedlikefadedtigers。Theytookme，bythesameconveyance，tothejailitself。 Itisanoldprison，andquiteapioneerestablishment，ontheplanIhavealreadydescribed。Iwasgladtohearthis，foritisunquestionablyaveryindifferentone。Themostismade，however，ofthemeansitpossesses，anditisaswellregulatedassuchaplacecanbe。 Thewomenworkincoveredsheds，erectedforthatpurpose。IfI rememberright，therearenoshopsforthemen，butbethatasitmay，thegreaterpartofthemlabourincertainstone-quarriesnearathand。Thedaybeingverywetindeed，thislabourwassuspended，andtheprisonerswereintheircells。Imaginethesecells，sometwoorthreehundredinnumber，andineveryoneamanlockedup； thisoneathisdoorforair，withhishandsthrustthroughthegrate；thisoneinbed(inthemiddleoftheday，remember)；andthisoneflungdowninaheapupontheground，withhisheadagainstthebars，likeawildbeast。Maketherainpourdown，outside，intorrents。Puttheeverlastingstoveinthemidst；hot，andsuffocating，andvaporous，asawitch\'scauldron。Addacollectionofgentleodours，suchaswouldarisefromathousandmildewedumbrellas，wetthrough，andathousandbuck-baskets，fullofhalf-washedlinen-andthereistheprison，asitwasthatday。 TheprisonfortheStateatSingSingis，ontheotherhand，amodeljail。That，andAuburn，are，Ibelieve，thelargestandbestexamplesofthesilentsystem。 Inanotherpartofthecity，istheRefugefortheDestitute:anInstitutionwhoseobjectistoreclaimyouthfuloffenders，maleandfemale，blackandwhite，withoutdistinction；toteachthemusefultrades，apprenticethemtorespectablemasters，andmakethemworthymembersofsociety。Itsdesign，itwillbeseen，issimilartothatatBoston；anditisanolessmeritoriousandadmirableestablishment。Asuspicioncrossedmymindduringmyinspectionofthisnoblecharity，whetherthesuperintendenthadquitesufficientknowledgeoftheworldandworldlycharacters；andwhetherhedidnotcommitagreatmistakeintreatingsomeyounggirls，whoweretoallintentsandpurposes，bytheiryearsandtheirpastlives，women，asthoughtheywerelittlechildren；whichcertainlyhadaludicrouseffectinmyeyes，and，orIammuchmistaken，intheirsalso。AstheInstitution，however，isalwaysunderavigilantexaminationofabodyofgentlemenofgreatintelligenceandexperience，itcannotfailtobewellconducted；andwhetherIamrightorwronginthisslightparticular，isunimportanttoitsdesertsandcharacter，whichitwouldbedifficulttoestimatetoohighly。 Inadditiontotheseestablishments，thereareinNewYork，excellenthospitalsandschools，literaryinstitutionsandlibraries；anadmirablefiredepartment(asindeeditshouldbe，havingconstantpractice)，andcharitiesofeverysortandkind。 Inthesuburbsthereisaspaciouscemetery:unfinishedyet，buteverydayimproving。ThesaddesttombIsawtherewas\'TheStrangers\'Grave。Dedicatedtothedifferenthotelsinthiscity。\' Therearethreeprincipaltheatres。Twoofthem，theParkandtheBowery，arelarge，elegant，andhandsomebuildings，andare，I grievetowriteit，generallydeserted。Thethird，theOlympic，isatinyshow-boxforvaudevillesandburlesques。ItissingularlywellconductedbyMr。Mitchell，acomicactorofgreatquiethumourandoriginality，whoiswellrememberedandesteemedbyLondonplaygoers。Iamhappytoreportofthisdeservinggentleman，thathisbenchesareusuallywellfilled，andthathistheatreringswithmerrimenteverynight。Ihadalmostforgottenasmallsummertheatre，calledNiblo\'s，withgardensandopenairamusementsattached；butIbelieveitisnotexemptfromthegeneraldepressionunderwhichTheatricalProperty，orwhatishumorouslycalledbythatname，unfortunatelylabours。 ThecountryroundNewYorkissurpassinglyandexquisitelypicturesque。Theclimate，asIhavealreadyintimated，issomewhatofthewarmest。Whatitwouldbe，withouttheseabreezeswhichcomefromitsbeautifulBayintheeveningtime，Iwillnotthrowmyselformyreadersintoafeverbyinquiring。 Thetoneofthebestsocietyinthiscity，islikethatofBoston； hereandthere，itmaybe，withagreaterinfusionofthemercantilespirit，butgenerallypolishedandrefined，andalwaysmosthospitable。Thehousesandtablesareelegant；thehourslaterandmorerakish；andthereis，perhaps，agreaterspiritofcontentioninreferencetoappearances，andthedisplayofwealthandcostlyliving。Theladiesaresingularlybeautiful。 BeforeIleftNewYorkImadearrangementsforsecuringapassagehomeintheGeorgeWashingtonpacketship，whichwasadvertisedtosailinJune:thatbeingthemonthinwhichIhaddetermined，ifpreventedbynoaccidentinthecourseofmyramblings，toleaveAmerica。 IneverthoughtthatgoingbacktoEngland，returningtoallwhoaredeartome，andtopursuitsthathaveinsensiblygrowntobeapartofmynature，IcouldhavefeltsomuchsorrowasIendured，whenIpartedatlast，onboardthisship，withthefriendswhohadaccompaniedmefromthiscity。Ineverthoughtthenameofanyplace，sofarawayandsolatelyknown，couldeverassociateitselfinmymindwiththecrowdofaffectionateremembrancesthatnowclusteraboutit。Therearethoseinthiscitywhowouldbrighten，tome，thedarkestwinter-daythateverglimmeredandwentoutinLapland；andbeforewhosepresenceevenHomegrewdim，whentheyandIexchangedthatpainfulwordwhichmingleswithoureverythoughtanddeed；whichhauntsourcradle-headsininfancy，andclosesupthevistaofourlivesinage。 CHAPTERVII-PHILADELPHIA，ANDITSSOLITARYPRISON THEjourneyfromNewYorktoPhiladelphia，ismadebyrailroad，andtwoferries；andusuallyoccupiesbetweenfiveandsixhours。Itwasafineeveningwhenwewerepassengersinthetrain:andwatchingthebrightsunsetfromalittlewindownearthedoorbywhichwesat，myattentionwasattractedtoaremarkableappearanceissuingfromthewindowsofthegentleman\'scarimmediatelyinfrontofus，whichIsupposedforsometimewasoccasionedbyanumberofindustriouspersonsinside，rippingopenfeather-beds，andgivingthefeatherstothewind。Atlengthitoccurredtomethattheywereonlyspitting，whichwasindeedthecase；thoughhowanynumberofpassengerswhichitwaspossibleforthatcartocontain，couldhavemaintainedsuchaplayfulandincessantshowerofexpectoration，Iamstillatalosstounderstand: notwithstandingtheexperienceinallsalivatoryphenomenawhichI afterwardsacquired。 Imadeacquaintance，onthisjourney，withamildandmodestyoungquaker，whoopenedthediscoursebyinformingme，inagravewhisper，thathisgrandfatherwastheinventorofcold-drawncastoroil。Imentionthecircumstancehere，thinkingitprobablethatthisisthefirstoccasiononwhichthevaluablemedicineinquestionwaseverusedasaconversationalaperient。 Wereachedthecity，latethatnight。Lookingoutofmychamber- window，beforegoingtobed，Isaw，ontheoppositesideoftheway，ahandsomebuildingofwhitemarble，whichhadamournfulghost-likeaspect，drearytobehold。Iattributedthistothesombreinfluenceofthenight，andonrisinginthemorninglookedoutagain，expectingtoseeitsstepsandporticothrongedwithgroupsofpeoplepassinginandout。Thedoorwasstilltightshut，however；thesamecoldcheerlessairprevailed:andthebuildinglookedasifthemarblestatueofDonGuzmancouldalonehaveanybusinesstotransactwithinitsgloomywalls。Ihastenedtoinquireitsnameandpurpose，andthenmysurprisevanished。ItwastheTombofmanyfortunes；theGreatCatacombofinvestment； thememorableUnitedStatesBank。 Thestoppageofthisbank，withallitsruinousconsequences，hadcast(asIwastoldoneveryside)agloomonPhiladelphia，underthedepressingeffectofwhichityetlaboured。Itcertainlydidseemratherdullandoutofspirits。 Itisahandsomecity，butdistractinglyregular。Afterwalkingaboutitforanhourortwo，IfeltthatIwouldhavegiventheworldforacrookedstreet。Thecollarofmycoatappearedtostiffen，andthebrimofmybattoexpand，beneathitsquakeryinfluence。Myhairshrunkintoasleekshortcrop，myhandsfoldedthemselvesuponmybreastoftheirowncalmaccord，andthoughtsoftakinglodgingsinMarkLaneoveragainsttheMarketPlace，andofmakingalargefortunebyspeculationsincorn，cameovermeinvoluntarily。 Philadelphiaismostbountifullyprovidedwithfreshwater，whichisshoweredandjerkedabout，andturnedon，andpouredoff，everywhere。TheWaterworks，whichareonaheightnearthecity，arenolessornamentalthanuseful，beingtastefullylaidoutasapublicgarden，andkeptinthebestandneatestorder。Theriverisdammedatthispoint，andforcedbyitsownpowerintocertainhightanksorreservoirs，whencethewholecity，tothetopstoriesofthehouses，issuppliedataverytriflingexpense。 Therearevariouspublicinstitutions。AmongthemamostexcellentHospital-aquakerestablishment，butnotsectarianinthegreatbenefitsitconfers；aquiet，quaintoldLibrary，namedafterFranklin；ahandsomeExchangeandPostOffice；andsoforth。InconnectionwiththequakerHospital，thereisapicturebyWest，whichisexhibitedforthebenefitofthefundsoftheinstitution。 Thesubjectis，ourSaviourhealingthesick，anditis，perhaps，asfavourableaspecimenofthemasterascanbeseenanywhere。 Whetherthisbehighorlowpraise，dependsuponthereader\'staste。 Inthesameroom，thereisaverycharacteristicandlife-likeportraitbyMr。Sully，adistinguishedAmericanartist。 MystayinPhiladelphiawasveryshort，butwhatIsawofitssociety，Igreatlyliked。Treatingofitsgeneralcharacteristics，IshouldbedisposedtosaythatitismoreprovincialthanBostonorNewYork，andthatthereisafloatinthefaircity，anassumptionoftasteandcriticism，savouringratherofthosegenteeldiscussionsuponthesamethemes，inconnectionwithShakspeareandtheMusicalGlasses，ofwhichwereadintheVicarofWakefield。Nearthecity，isamostsplendidunfinishedmarblestructurefortheGirardCollege，foundedbyadeceasedgentlemanofthatnameandofenormouswealth，which，ifcompletedaccordingtotheoriginaldesign，willbeperhapstherichestedificeofmoderntimes。Butthebequestisinvolvedinlegaldisputes，andpendingthemtheworkhasstopped；sothatlikemanyothergreatundertakingsinAmerica，eventhisisrathergoingtobedoneoneofthesedays，thandoingnow。