第8章

ThereisaverypleasantandcommodiouslibraryintheCapitol；andfromabalconyinfront，thebird\'s-eyeview，ofwhichIhavejustspoken，maybehad，togetherwithabeautifulprospectoftheadjacentcountry。Inoneoftheornamentedportionsofthebuilding，thereisafigureofJustice；whereuntotheGuideBooksays，\'theartistatfirstcontemplatedgivingmoreofnudity，buthewaswarnedthatthepublicsentimentinthiscountrywouldnotadmitofit，andinhiscautionhehasgone，perhaps，intotheoppositeextreme。\'PoorJustice!shehasbeenmadetowearmuchstrangergarmentsinAmericathanthoseshepinesin，intheCapitol。Letushopethatshehaschangedherdress-makersincetheywerefashioned，andthatthepublicsentimentofthecountrydidnotcutouttheclothesshehidesherlovelyfigurein，justnow。 TheHouseofRepresentativesisabeautifulandspacioushall，ofsemicircularshape，supportedbyhandsomepillars。Onepartofthegalleryisappropriatedtotheladies，andtheretheysitinfrontrows，andcomein，andgoout，asataplayorconcert。Thechairiscanopied，andraisedconsiderablyabovetheflooroftheHouse； andeverymemberhasaneasychairandawritingdesktohimself: whichisdenouncedbysomepeopleoutofdoorsasamostunfortunateandinjudiciousarrangement，tendingtolongsittingsandprosaicspeeches。Itisanelegantchambertolookat，butasingularlybadoneforallpurposesofhearing。TheSenate，whichissmaller，isfreefromthisobjection，andisexceedinglywelladaptedtotheusesforwhichitisdesigned。Thesittings，Ineedhardlyadd，takeplaceintheday；andtheparliamentaryformsaremodelledonthoseoftheoldcountry。 Iwassometimesasked，inmyprogressthroughotherplaces，whetherIhadnotbeenverymuchimpressedbytheHEADSofthelawmakersatWashington；meaningnottheirchiefsandleaders，butliterallytheirindividualandpersonalheads，whereontheirhairgrew，andwherebythephrenologicalcharacterofeachlegislatorwasexpressed:andIalmostasoftenstruckmyquestionerdumbwithindignantconsternationbyanswering\'No，thatIdidn\'trememberbeingatallovercome。\'AsImust，atwhateverhazard，repeattheavowalhere，Iwillfollowitupbyrelatingmyimpressionsonthissubjectinasfewwordsaspossible。 Inthefirstplace-itmaybefromsomeimperfectdevelopmentofmyorganofveneration-Idonotrememberhavingeverfaintedaway，orhavingevenbeenmovedtotearsofjoyfulpride，atsightofanylegislativebody。IhavebornetheHouseofCommonslikeaman，andhaveyieldedtonoweakness，butslumber，intheHouseofLords。Ihaveseenelectionsforboroughandcounty，andhaveneverbeenimpelled(nomatterwhichpartywon)todamagemyhatbythrowingitupintotheairintriumph，ortocrackmyvoicebyshoutingforthanyreferencetoourGloriousConstitution，tothenoblepurityofourindependentvoters，or，theunimpeachableintegrityofourindependentmembers。Havingwithstoodsuchstrongattacksuponmyfortitude，itispossiblethatImaybeofacoldandinsensibletemperament，amountingtoiciness，insuchmatters； andthereforemyimpressionsofthelivepillarsoftheCapitolatWashingtonmustbereceivedwithsuchgrainsofallowanceasthisfreeconfessionmayseemtodemand。 DidIseeinthispublicbodyanassemblageofmen，boundtogetherinthesacrednamesofLibertyandFreedom，andsoassertingthechastedignityofthosetwingoddesses，inalltheirdiscussions，astoexaltatoncetheEternalPrinciplestowhichtheirnamesaregiven，andtheirowncharacterandthecharacteroftheircountrymen，intheadmiringeyesofthewholeworld？ Itwasbutaweek，sinceanaged，grey-hairedman，alastinghonourtothelandthatgavehimbirth，whohasdonegoodservicetohiscountry，ashisforefathersdid，andwhowillberememberedscoresuponscoresofyearsafterthewormsbredinitscorruption，arebutsomanygrainsofdust-itwasbutaweek，sincethisoldmanhadstoodfordaysuponhistrialbeforethisverybody，chargedwithhavingdaredtoasserttheinfamyofthattraffic，whichhasforitsaccursedmerchandisemenandwomen，andtheirunbornchildren。Yes。Andpubliclyexhibitedinthesamecityallthewhile；gilded，framedandglazedhungupforgeneraladmiration； showntostrangersnotwithshame，butpride；itsfacenotturnedtowardsthewall，itselfnottakendownandburned；istheUnanimousDeclarationoftheThirteenUnitedStatesofAmerica，whichsolemnlydeclaresthatAllMenarecreatedEqual；andareendowedbytheirCreatorwiththeInalienableRightsofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness! Itwasnotamonth，sincethissamebodyhadsatcalmlyby，andheardaman，oneofthemselves，withoathswhichbeggarsintheirdrinkreject，threatentocutanother\'sthroatfromeartoear。 Therehesat，amongthem；notcrushedbythegeneralfeelingoftheassembly，butasgoodamanasany。 Therewasbutaweektocome，andanotherofthatbody，fordoinghisdutytothosewhosenthimthere；forclaiminginaRepublictheLibertyandFreedomofexpressingtheirsentiments，andmakingknowntheirprayer；wouldbetried，foundguilty，andhavestrongcensurepasseduponhimbytherest。Hiswasagraveoffenceindeed；foryearsbefore，hehadrisenupandsaid，\'Agangofmaleandfemaleslavesforsale，warrantedtobreedlikecattle，linkedtoeachotherbyironfetters，arepassingnowalongtheopenstreetbeneaththewindowsofyourTempleofEquality!Look!\'ButtherearemanykindsofhuntersengagedinthePursuitofHappiness，andtheygovariouslyarmed。ItistheInalienableRightofsomeamongthem，totakethefieldafterTHEIRHappinessequippedwithcatandcartwhip，stocks，andironcollar，andtoshouttheirviewhalloa!(alwaysinpraiseofLiberty)tothemusicofclankingchainsandbloodystripes。 Wheresatthemanylegislatorsofcoarsethreats；ofwordsandblowssuchascoalheaversdealuponeachother，whentheyforgettheirbreeding？Oneveryside。Everysessionhaditsanecdotesofthatkind，andtheactorswereallthere。 DidIrecogniseinthisassembly，abodyofmen，who，applyingthemselvesinanewworldtocorrectsomeofthefalsehoodsandvicesoftheold，purifiedtheavenuestoPublicLife，pavedthedirtywaystoPlaceandPower，debatedandmadelawsfortheCommonGood，andhadnopartybuttheirCountry？ Isawinthem，thewheelsthatmovethemeanestperversionofvirtuousPoliticalMachinerythattheworsttoolseverwrought。 Despicabletrickeryatelections；under-handedtamperingswithpublicofficers；cowardlyattacksuponopponents，withscurrilousnewspapersforshields，andhiredpensfordaggers；shamefultrucklingstomercenaryknaves，whoseclaimtobeconsidered，is，thateverydayandweektheysownewcropsofruinwiththeirvenaltypes，whicharethedragon\'steethofyore，ineverythingbutsharpness；aidingsandabettingsofeverybadinclinationinthepopularmind，andartfulsuppressionsofallitsgoodinfluences: suchthingsasthese，andinaword，DishonestFactioninitsmostdepravedandmostunblushingform，staredoutfromeverycornerofthecrowdedhall。 DidIseeamongthem，theintelligenceandrefinement:thetrue，honest，patrioticheartofAmerica？Hereandthere，weredropsofitsbloodandlife，buttheyscarcelycolouredthestreamofdesperateadventurerswhichsetsthatwayforprofitandforpay。 Itisthegameofthesemen，andoftheirprofligateorgans，tomakethestrifeofpoliticssofierceandbrutal，andsodestructiveofallself-respectinworthymen，thatsensitiveanddelicate-mindedpersonsshallbekeptaloof，andthey，andsuchasthey，belefttobattleouttheirselfishviewsunchecked。Andthusthislowestofallscramblingfightsgoeson，andtheywhoinothercountrieswould，fromtheirintelligenceandstation，mostaspiretomakethelaws，dohererecoilthefarthestfromthatdegradation。 Thatthereare，amongtherepresentativesofthepeopleinbothHouses，andamongallparties，somemenofhighcharacterandgreatabilities，Ineednotsay。TheforemostamongthosepoliticianswhoareknowninEurope，havebeenalreadydescribed，andIseenoreasontodepartfromtheruleIhavelaiddownformyguidance，ofabstainingfromallmentionofindividuals。Itwillbesufficienttoadd，thattothemostfavourableaccountsthathavebeenwrittenofthem，Imorethanfullyandmostheartilysubscribe；andthatpersonalintercourseandfreecommunicationhavebredwithinme，nottheresultpredictedintheverydoubtfulproverb，butincreasedadmirationandrespect。Theyarestrikingmentolookat，hardtodeceive，prompttoact，lionsinenergy，Crichtonsinvariedaccomplishments，Indiansinfireofeyeandgesture，Americansinstrongandgenerousimpulse；andtheyaswellrepresentthehonourandwisdomoftheircountryathome，asthedistinguishedgentlemanwhoisnowitsMinisterattheBritishCourtsustainsitshighestcharacterabroad。 Ivisitedbothhousesnearlyeveryday，duringmystayinWashington。OnmyinitiatoryvisittotheHouseofRepresentatives，theydividedagainstadecisionofthechair；butthechairwon。ThesecondtimeIwent，thememberwhowasspeaking，beinginterruptedbyalaugh，mimickedit，asonechildwouldinquarrellingwithanother，andadded，\'thathewouldmakehonourablegentlemenopposite，singoutalittlemoreontheothersideoftheirmouthspresently。\'Butinterruptionsarerare；thespeakerbeingusuallyheardinsilence。Therearemorequarrelsthanwithus，andmorethreateningsthangentlemenareaccustomedtoexchangeinanycivilisedsocietyofwhichwehaverecord:butfarm-yardimitationshavenotasyetbeenimportedfromtheParliamentoftheUnitedKingdom。Thefeatureinoratorywhichappearstobethemostpractised，andmostrelished，istheconstantrepetitionofthesameideaorshadowofanideainfreshwords；andtheinquiryoutofdoorsisnot，\'Whatdidhesay？\'but，\'Howlongdidhespeak？\'These，however，arebutenlargementsofaprinciplewhichprevailselsewhere。 TheSenateisadignifiedanddecorousbody，anditsproceedingsareconductedwithmuchgravityandorder。Bothhousesarehandsomelycarpeted；butthestatetowhichthesecarpetsarereducedbytheuniversaldisregardofthespittoonwithwhicheveryhonourablememberisaccommodated，andtheextraordinaryimprovementsonthepatternwhicharesquirtedanddabbleduponitineverydirection，donotadmitofbeingdescribed。Iwillmerelyobserve，thatIstronglyrecommendallstrangersnottolookatthefloor；andiftheyhappentodropanything，thoughitbetheirpurse，nottopickitupwithanunglovedhandonanyaccount。 Itissomewhatremarkabletoo，atfirst，tosaytheleast，toseesomanyhonourablememberswithswelledfaces；anditisscarcelylessremarkabletodiscoverthatthisappearanceiscausedbythequantityoftobaccotheycontrivetostowwithinthehollowofthecheek。Itisstrangeenoughtoo，toseeanhonourablegentlemanleaningbackinhistiltedchairwithhislegsonthedeskbeforehim，shapingaconvenient\'plug\'withhispenknife，andwhenitisquitereadyforuse，shootingtheoldonefromhismouth，asfromapop-gun，andclappingthenewoneinitsplace。 Iwassurprisedtoobservethatevensteadyoldchewersofgreatexperience，arenotalwaysgoodmarksmen，whichhasratherinclinedmetodoubtthatgeneralproficiencywiththerifle，ofwhichwehaveheardsomuchinEngland。Severalgentlemencalleduponmewho，inthecourseofconversation，frequentlymissedthespittoonatfivepaces；andone(buthewascertainlyshort-sighted)mistooktheclosedsashfortheopenwindow，atthree。Onanotheroccasion，whenIdinedout，andwassittingwithtwoladiesandsomegentlemenroundafirebeforedinner，oneofthecompanyfellshortofthefireplace，sixdistincttimes。Iamdisposedtothink，however，thatthiswasoccasionedbyhisnotaimingatthatobject；astherewasawhitemarblehearthbeforethefender，whichwasmoreconvenient，andmayhavesuitedhispurposebetter。 ThePatentOfficeatWashington，furnishesanextraordinaryexampleofAmericanenterpriseandingenuity；fortheimmensenumberofmodelsitcontainsaretheaccumulatedinventionsofonlyfiveyears；thewholeofthepreviouscollectionhavingbeendestroyedbyfire。Theelegantstructureinwhichtheyarearrangedisoneofdesignratherthanexecution，forthereisbutonesideerectedoutoffour，thoughtheworksarestopped。ThePostOfficeisaverycompactandverybeautifulbuilding。Inoneofthedepartments，amongacollectionofrareandcuriousarticles，aredepositedthepresentswhichhavebeenmadefromtimetotimetotheAmericanambassadorsatforeigncourtsbythevariouspotentatestowhomtheyweretheaccreditedagentsoftheRepublic； giftswhichbythelawtheyarenotpermittedtoretain。IconfessthatIlookeduponthisasaverypainfulexhibition，andonebynomeansflatteringtothenationalstandardofhonestyandhonour。 Thatcanscarcelybeahighstateofmoralfeelingwhichimaginesagentlemanofreputeandstation，likelytobecorrupted，inthedischargeofhisduty，bythepresentofasnuff-box，orarichly- mountedsword，oranEasternshawl；andsurelytheNationwhoreposesconfidenceinherappointedservants，islikelytobebetterserved，thanshewhomakesthemthesubjectofsuchverymeanandpaltrysuspicions。 AtGeorgeTown，inthesuburbs，thereisaJesuitCollege； delightfullysituated，and，sofarasIhadanopportunityofseeing，wellmanaged。ManypersonswhoarenotmembersoftheRomishChurch，availthemselves，Ibelieve，oftheseinstitutions，andoftheadvantageousopportunitiestheyaffordfortheeducationoftheirchildren。Theheightsofthisneighbourhood，abovethePotomacRiver，areverypicturesque:andarefree，Ishouldconceive，fromsomeoftheinsalubritiesofWashington。Theair，atthatelevation，wasquitecoolandrefreshing，wheninthecityitwasburninghot。 ThePresident\'smansionismorelikeanEnglishclub-house，bothwithinandwithout，thananyotherkindofestablishmentwithwhichIcancompareit。Theornamentalgroundaboutithasbeenlaidoutingardenwalks；theyarepretty，andagreeabletotheeye；thoughtheyhavethatuncomfortableairofhavingbeenmadeyesterday，whichisfarfromfavourabletothedisplayofsuchbeauties。 Myfirstvisittothishousewasonthemorningaftermyarrival，whenIwascarriedthitherbyanofficialgentleman，whowassokindastochargehimselfwithmypresentationtothePresident。 Weenteredalargehall，andhavingtwiceorthricerungabellwhichnobodyanswered，walkedwithoutfurtherceremonythroughtheroomsonthegroundfloor，asdiversothergentlemen(mostlywiththeirhatson，andtheirhandsintheirpockets)weredoingveryleisurely。Someofthesehadladieswiththem，towhomtheywereshowingthepremises；otherswereloungingonthechairsandsofas； others，inaperfectstateofexhaustionfromlistlessness，wereyawningdrearily。Thegreaterportionofthisassemblagewereratherassertingtheirsupremacythandoinganythingelse，astheyhadnoparticularbusinessthere，thatanybodyknewof。Afewwerecloselyeyeingthemovables，asiftomakequitesurethatthePresident(whowasfarfrompopular)hadnotmadeawaywithanyofthefurniture，orsoldthefixturesforhisprivatebenefit。 Afterglancingattheseloungers；whowerescatteredoveraprettydrawing-room，openinguponaterracewhichcommandedabeautifulprospectoftheriverandtheadjacentcountry；andwhoweresauntering，too，aboutalargerstate-roomcalledtheEasternDrawing-room；wewentup-stairsintoanotherchamber，wherewerecertainvisitors，waitingforaudiences。Atsightofmyconductor，ablackinplainclothesandyellowslipperswhowasglidingnoiselesslyabout，andwhisperingmessagesintheearsofthemoreimpatient，madeasignofrecognition，andglidedofftoannouncehim。 Wehadpreviouslylookedintoanotherchamberfittedallroundwithagreat，bare，woodendeskorcounter，whereonlayfilesofnewspapers，towhichsundrygentlemenwerereferring。Buttherewerenosuchmeansofbeguilingthetimeinthisapartment，whichwasasunpromisingandtiresomeasanywaiting-roominoneofourpublicestablishments，oranyphysician\'sdining-roomduringhishoursofconsultationathome。 Thereweresomefifteenortwentypersonsintheroom。One，atall，wiry，muscularoldman，fromthewest；sunburntandswarthy； withabrownwhitehatonhisknees，andagiantumbrellarestingbetweenhislegs；whosatboltuprightinhischair，frowningsteadilyatthecarpet，andtwitchingthehardlinesabouthismouth，asifhehadmadeuphismind\'tofix\'thePresidentonwhathehadtosay，andwouldn\'tbatehimagrain。Another，aKentuckyfarmer，six-feet-sixinheight，withhishaton，andhishandsunderhiscoat-tails，wholeanedagainstthewallandkickedthefloorwithhisheel，asthoughhehadTime\'sheadunderhisshoe，andwereliterally\'killing\'him。Athird，anoval-faced，bilious- lookingman，withsleekblackhaircroppedclose，andwhiskersandbeardshaveddowntobluedots，whosuckedtheheadofathickstick，andfromtimetotimetookitoutofhismouth，toseehowitwasgettingon。Afourthdidnothingbutwhistle。Afifthdidnothingbutspit。Andindeedallthesegentlemenweresoveryperseveringandenergeticinthislatterparticular，andbestowedtheirfavourssoabundantlyuponthecarpet，thatItakeitforgrantedthePresidentialhousemaidshavehighwages，or，tospeakmoregenteelly，anampleamountof\'compensation:\'whichistheAmericanwordforsalary，inthecaseofallpublicservants。 Wehadnotwaitedinthisroommanyminutes，beforetheblackmessengerreturned，andconductedusintoanotherofsmallerdimensions，where，atabusiness-liketablecoveredwithpapers，satthePresidenthimself。Helookedsomewhatwornandanxious，andwellhemight；beingatwarwitheverybody-buttheexpressionofhisfacewasmildandpleasant，andhismannerwasremarkablyunaffected，gentlemanly，andagreeable。Ithoughtthatinhiswholecarriageanddemeanour，hebecamehisstationsingularlywell。 Beingadvisedthatthesensibleetiquetteoftherepublicancourtadmittedofatraveller，likemyself，declining，withoutanyimpropriety，aninvitationtodinner，whichdidnotreachmeuntilIhadconcludedmyarrangementsforleavingWashingtonsomedaysbeforethattowhichitreferred，Ionlyreturnedtothishouseonce。Itwasontheoccasionofoneofthosegeneralassemblieswhichareheldoncertainnights，betweenthehoursofnineandtwelveo\'clock，andarecalled，ratheroddly，Levees。 Iwent，withmywife，ataboutten。Therewasaprettydensecrowdofcarriagesandpeopleinthecourt-yard，andsofarasIcouldmakeout，therewerenoveryclearregulationsforthetakinguporsettingdownofcompany。Therewerecertainlynopolicementosoothestartledhorses，eitherbysawingattheirbridlesorflourishingtruncheonsintheireyes；andIamreadytomakeoaththatnoinoffensivepersonswereknockedviolentlyonthehead，orpokedacutelyintheirbacksorstomachs；orbroughttoastandstillbyanysuchgentlemeans，andthentakenintocustodyfornotmovingon。Buttherewasnoconfusionordisorder。Ourcarriagereachedtheporchinitsturn，withoutanyblustering，swearing，shouting，backing，orotherdisturbance:andwedismountedwithasmucheaseandcomfortasthoughwehadbeenescortedbythewholeMetropolitanForcefromAtoZinclusive。 Thesuiteofroomsontheground-floorwerelightedup，andamilitarybandwasplayinginthehall。Inthesmallerdrawing- room，thecentreofacircleofcompany，werethePresidentandhisdaughter-in-law，whoactedastheladyofthemansion；andaveryinteresting，graceful，andaccomplishedladytoo。Onegentlemanwhostoodamongthisgroup，appearedtotakeuponhimselfthefunctionsofamasteroftheceremonies。Isawnootherofficersorattendants，andnonewereneeded。 Thegreatdrawing-room，whichIhavealreadymentioned，andtheotherchambersontheground-floor，werecrowdedtoexcess。Thecompanywasnot，inoursenseoftheterm，select，foritcomprehendedpersonsofverymanygradesandclasses；norwasthereanygreatdisplayofcostlyattire:indeed，someofthecostumesmayhavebeen，foraughtIknow，grotesqueenough。Butthedecorumandproprietyofbehaviourwhichprevailed，wereunbrokenbyanyrudeordisagreeableincident；andeveryman，evenamongthemiscellaneouscrowdinthehallwhowereadmittedwithoutanyordersorticketstolookon，appearedtofeelthathewasapartoftheInstitution，andwasresponsibleforitspreservingabecomingcharacter，andappearingtothebestadvantage。 Thatthesevisitors，too，whatevertheirstation，werenotwithoutsomerefinementoftasteandappreciationofintellectualgifts，andgratitudetothosemenwho，bythepeacefulexerciseofgreatabilities，shednewcharmsandassociationsuponthehomesoftheircountrymen，andelevatetheircharacterinotherlands，wasmostearnestlytestifiedbytheirreceptionofWashingtonIrving，mydearfriend，whohadrecentlybeenappointedMinisteratthecourtofSpain，andwhowasamongthemthatnight，inhisnewcharacter，forthefirstandlasttimebeforegoingabroad。IsincerelybelievethatinallthemadnessofAmericanpolitics，fewpublicmenwouldhavebeensoearnestly，devotedly，andaffectionatelycaressed，asthismostcharmingwriter:andIhaveseldomrespectedapublicassemblymore，thanIdidthiseagerthrong，whenIsawthemturningwithonemindfromnoisyoratorsandofficersofstate，andflockingwithagenerousandhonestimpulseroundthemanofquietpursuits:proudinhispromotionasreflectingbackupontheircountry:andgratefultohimwiththeirwholeheartsforthestoreofgracefulfancieshehadpouredoutamongthem。Longmayhedispensesuchtreasureswithunsparinghand；andlongmaytheyrememberhimasworthily! ThetermwehadassignedforthedurationofourstayinWashingtonwasnowatanend，andweweretobegintotravel；fortherailroaddistanceswehadtraversedyet，injourneyingamongtheseoldertowns，areonthatgreatcontinentlookeduponasnothing。 IhadatfirstintendedgoingSouth-toCharleston。ButwhenI cametoconsiderthelengthoftimewhichthisjourneywouldoccupy，andtheprematureheatoftheseason，whichevenatWashingtonhadbeenoftenverytrying；andweighedmoreover，inmyownmind，thepainoflivingintheconstantcontemplationofslavery，againstthemorethandoubtfulchancesofmyeverseeingit，inthetimeIhadtospare，strippedofthedisguisesinwhichitwouldcertainlybedressed，andsoaddinganyitemtothehostoffactsalreadyheapedtogetheronthesubject；IbegantolistentooldwhisperingswhichhadoftenbeenpresenttomeathomeinEngland，whenIlittlethoughtofeverbeinghere；andtodreamagainofcitiesgrowingup，likepalacesinfairytales，amongthewildsandforestsofthewest。 TheadviceIreceivedinmostquarterswhenIbegantoyieldtomydesireoftravellingtowardsthatpointofthecompasswas，accordingtocustom，sufficientlycheerless:mycompanionbeingthreatenedwithmoreperils，dangers，anddiscomforts，thanIcanrememberorwouldcatalogueifIcould；butofwhichitwillbesufficienttoremarkthatblowings-upinsteamboatsandbreakings- downincoacheswereamongtheleast。But，havingawesternroutesketchedoutformebythebestandkindestauthoritytowhichI couldhaveresorted，andputtingnogreatfaithinthesediscouragements，Isoondeterminedonmyplanofaction。 Thiswastotravelsouth，onlytoRichmondinVirginia；andthentoturn，andshapeourcoursefortheFarWest；whitherIbeseechthereader\'scompany，inanewchapter。 CHAPTERIX-ANIGHTSTEAMERONTHEPOTOMACRIVER。VIRGINIAROAD，ANDABLACKDRIVER。RICHMOND。BALTIMORE。THEHARRISBURGMAIL，ANDAGLIMPSEOFTHECITY。ACANALBOAT WEweretoproceedinthefirstinstancebysteamboat；andasitisusualtosleeponboard，inconsequenceofthestarting-hourbeingfouro\'clockinthemorning，wewentdowntowhereshelay，atthatveryuncomfortabletimeforsuchexpeditionswhenslippersaremostvaluable，andafamiliarbed，intheperspectiveofanhourortwo，looksuncommonlypleasant。 Itisteno\'clockatnight:sayhalf-pastten:moonlight，warm，anddullenough。Thesteamer(notunlikeachild\'sNoah\'sarkinform，withthemachineryonthetopoftheroof)isridinglazilyupanddown，andbumpingclumsilyagainstthewoodenpier，astherippleoftherivertrifleswithitsunwieldycarcase。Thewharfissomedistancefromthecity。Thereisnobodydownhere；andoneortwodulllampsuponthesteamer\'sdecksaretheonlysignsofliferemaining，whenourcoachhasdrivenaway。Assoonasourfootstepsareheardupontheplanks，afatnegress，particularlyfavouredbynatureinrespectofbustle，emergesfromsomedarkstairs，andmarshalsmywifetowardstheladies\'cabin，towhichretreatshegoes，followedbyamightybaleofcloaksandgreat- coats。Ivaliantlyresolvenottogotobedatall，buttowalkupanddownthepiertillmorning。 Ibeginmypromenade-thinkingofallkindsofdistantthingsandpersons，andofnothingnear-andpaceupanddownforhalf-an- hour。ThenIgoonboardagain；andgettingintothelightofoneofthelamps，lookatmywatchandthinkitmusthavestopped；andwonderwhathasbecomeofthefaithfulsecretarywhomIbroughtalongwithmefromBoston。Heissuppingwithourlatelandlord(aFieldMarshal，atleast，nodoubt)inhonourofourdeparture，andmaybetwohourslonger。Iwalkagain，butitgetsdullerandduller:themoongoesdown:nextJuneseemsfartheroffinthedark，andtheechoesofmyfootstepsmakemenervous。Ithasturnedcoldtoo；andwalkingupanddownwithoutmycompanioninsuchlonelycircumstances，isbutpooramusement。SoIbreakmystaunchresolution，andthinkitmaybe，perhaps，aswelltogotobed。 Igoonboardagain；openthedoorofthegentlemen\'scabinandwalkin。Somehoworother-fromitsbeingsoquiet，Isuppose-I havetakenitintomyheadthatthereisnobodythere。Tomyhorrorandamazementitisfullofsleepersineverystage，shape，attitude，andvarietyofslumber:intheberths，onthechairs，onthefloors，onthetables，andparticularlyroundthestove，mydetestedenemy。Itakeanotherstepforward，andslipontheshiningfaceofablacksteward，wholiesrolledinablanketonthefloor。Hejumpsup，grins，halfinpainandhalfinhospitality；whispersmyownnameinmyear；andgropingamongthesleepers，leadsmetomyberth。Standingbesideit，Icounttheseslumberingpassengers，andgetpastforty。Thereisnouseingoingfurther，soIbegintoundress。Asthechairsarealloccupied，andthereisnothingelsetoputmyclotheson，Idepositthemupontheground:notwithoutsoilingmyhands，foritisinthesameconditionasthecarpetsintheCapitol，andfromthesamecause。Havingbutpartiallyundressed，Iclamberonmyshelf，andholdthecurtainopenforafewminuteswhileIlookroundonallmyfellow-travellersagain。Thatdone，Iletitfallonthem，andontheworld:turnround:andgotosleep。 Iwake，ofcourse，whenwegetunderweigh，forthereisagooddealofnoise。Thedayisthenjustbreaking。Everybodywakesatthesametime。Someareself-possesseddirectly，andsomearemuchperplexedtomakeoutwheretheyareuntiltheyhaverubbedtheireyes，andleaningononeelbow，lookedaboutthem。Someyawn，somegroan，nearlyallspit，andafewgetup。Iamamongtherisers: foritiseasytofeel，withoutgoingintothefreshair，thattheatmosphereofthecabinisvileinthelastdegree。Ihuddleonmyclothes，godownintothefore-cabin，getshavedbythebarber，andwashmyself。Thewashinganddressingapparatusforthepassengersgenerally，consistsoftwojack-towels，threesmallwoodenbasins，akegofwaterandaladletoserveitoutwith，sixsquareinchesoflooking-glass，twodittodittoofyellowsoap，acombandbrushforthehead，andnothingfortheteeth。Everybodyusesthecombandbrush，exceptmyself。Everybodystarestoseemeusingmyown； andtwoorthreegentlemenarestronglydisposedtobantermeonmyprejudices，butdon\'t。WhenIhavemademytoilet，Igouponthehurricane-deck，andsetinfortwohoursofhardwalkingupanddown。Thesunisrisingbrilliantly；wearepassingMountVernon，whereWashingtonliesburied；theriveriswideandrapid；anditsbanksarebeautiful。Allthegloryandsplendourofthedayarecomingon，andgrowingbrightereveryminute。 Ateighto\'clock，webreakfastinthecabinwhereIpassedthenight，butthewindowsanddoorsareallthrownopen，andnowitisfreshenough。Thereisnohurryorgreedinessapparentinthedespatchofthemeal。Itislongerthanatravellingbreakfastwithus；moreorderly，andmorepolite。 Soonafternineo\'clockwecometoPotomacCreek，wherewearetoland；andthencomestheoddestpartofthejourney。Sevenstage- coachesarepreparingtocarryuson。Someofthemareready，someofthemarenotready。Someofthedriversareblacks，somewhites。Therearefourhorsestoeachcoach，andallthehorses，harnessedorunharnessed，arethere。Thepassengersaregettingoutofthesteamboat，andintothecoaches；theluggageisbeingtransferredinnoisywheelbarrows；thehorsesarefrightened，andimpatienttostart；theblackdriversarechatteringtothemlikesomanymonkeys；andthewhiteoneswhoopinglikesomanydrovers: forthemainthingtobedoneinallkindsofhostleringhere，istomakeasmuchnoiseaspossible。ThecoachesaresomethingliketheFrenchcoaches，butnotnearlysogood。Inlieuofsprings，theyarehungonbandsofthestrongestleather。Thereisverylittlechoiceordifferencebetweenthem；andtheymaybelikenedtothecarportionoftheswingsatanEnglishfair，roofed，putuponaxle-treesandwheels，andcurtainedwithpaintedcanvas。 Theyarecoveredwithmudfromtherooftothewheel-tire，andhaveneverbeencleanedsincetheywerefirstbuilt。 TheticketswehavereceivedonboardthesteamboataremarkedNo。 1，sowebelongtocoachNo。1。Ithrowmycoatonthebox，andhoistmywifeandhermaidintotheinside。Ithasonlyonestep，andthatbeingaboutayardfromtheground，isusuallyapproachedbyachair:whenthereisnochair，ladiestrustinProvidence。 Thecoachholdsnineinside，havingaseatacrossfromdoortodoor，whereweinEnglandputourlegs:sothatthereisonlyonefeatmoredifficultintheperformancethangettingin，andthatis，gettingoutagain。Thereisonlyoneoutsidepassenger，andhesitsuponthebox。AsIamthatone，Iclimbup；andwhiletheyarestrappingtheluggageontheroof，andheapingitintoakindoftraybehind，haveagoodopportunityoflookingatthedriver。 Heisanegro-veryblackindeed。Heisdressedinacoarsepepper-and-saltsuitexcessivelypatchedanddarned(particularlyattheknees)，greystockings，enormousunblackedhigh-lowshoes，andveryshorttrousers。Hehastwooddgloves:oneofparti- colouredworsted，andoneofleather。Hehasaveryshortwhip，brokeninthemiddleandbandagedupwithstring。Andyethewearsalow-crowned，broad-brimmed，blackhat:faintlyshadowingforthakindofinsaneimitationofanEnglishcoachman!Butsomebodyinauthoritycries\'Goahead!\'asIammakingtheseobservations。Themailtakestheleadinafour-horsewaggon，andallthecoachesfollowinprocession:headedbyNo。1。 Bytheway，wheneveranEnglishmanwouldcry\'Allright!\'anAmericancries\'Goahead!\'whichissomewhatexpressiveofthenationalcharacterofthetwocountries。 Thefirsthalf-mileoftheroadisoverbridgesmadeoflooseplankslaidacrosstwoparallelpoles，whichtiltupasthewheelsrolloverthem；andINtheriver。Theriverhasaclayeybottomandisfullofholes，sothathalfahorseisconstantlydisappearingunexpectedly，andcan\'tbefoundagainforsometime。 Butwegetpasteventhis，andcometotheroaditself，whichisaseriesofalternateswampsandgravel-pits。Atremendousplaceisclosebeforeus，theblackdriverrollshiseyes，screwshismouthupveryround，andlooksstraightbetweenthetwoleaders，asifheweresayingtohimself，\'Wehavedonethisoftenbefore，butNOWI thinkweshallhaveacrash。\'Hetakesareinineachhand；jerksandpullsatboth；anddancesonthesplashboardwithbothfeet(keepinghisseat，ofcourse)likethelatelamentedDucrowontwoofhisfierycoursers。Wecometothespot，sinkdowninthemirenearlytothecoachwindows，tiltononesideatanangleofforty- fivedegrees，andstickthere。Theinsidesscreamdismally；thecoachstops；thehorsesflounder；alltheothersixcoachesstop； andtheirfour-and-twentyhorsesflounderlikewise:butmerelyforcompany，andinsympathywithours。Thenthefollowingcircumstancesoccur。 BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses)。\'Hi!\' Nothinghappens。Insidesscreamagain。 BLACKDRIVER(tothehorses)。\'Ho!\' Horsesplunge，andsplashtheblackdriver。 GENTLEMANINSIDE(lookingout)。\'Why，whatonairth- Gentlemanreceivesavarietyofsplashesanddrawshisheadinagain，withoutfinishinghisquestionorwaitingforananswer。 BLACKDRIVER(stilltothehorses)。\'Jiddy!Jiddy!\' Horsespullviolently，dragthecoachoutofthehole，anddrawitupabank；sosteep，thattheblackdriver\'slegsflyupintotheair，andhegoesbackamongtheluggageontheroof。Butheimmediatelyrecovershimself，andcries(stilltothehorses)，\'Pill!\' Noeffect。Onthecontrary，thecoachbeginstorollbackuponNo。 2，whichrollsbackuponNo。3，whichrollsbackuponNo。4，andsoon，untilNo。7isheardtocurseandswear，nearlyaquarterofamilebehind。 BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore)。\'Pill!\' Horsesmakeanotherstruggletogetupthebank，andagainthecoachrollsbackward。 BLACKDRIVER(louderthanbefore)。\'Pe-e-e-ill!\' Horsesmakeadesperatestruggle。 BLACKDRIVER(recoveringspirits)。\'Hi，Jiddy，Jiddy，Pill!\' Horsesmakeanothereffort。 BLACKDRIVER(withgreatvigour)。\'AllyLoo!Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。 Pill。AllyLoo!\' Horsesalmostdoit。 BLACKDRIVER(withhiseyesstartingoutofhishead)。\'Lee，den。 Lee，dere。Hi。Jiddy，Jiddy。Pill。AllyLoo。Lee-e-e-e-e!\' Theyrunupthebank，andgodownagainontheothersideatafearfulpace。Itisimpossibletostopthem，andatthebottomthereisadeephollow，fullofwater。Thecoachrollsfrightfully。Theinsidesscream。Themudandwaterflyaboutus。 Theblackdriverdanceslikeamadman。Suddenlyweareallrightbysomeextraordinarymeans，andstoptobreathe。 Ablackfriendoftheblackdriverissittingonafence。Theblackdriverrecogniseshimbytwirlinghisheadroundandroundlikeaharlequin，rollinghiseyes，shrugginghisshoulders，andgrinningfromeartoear。Hestopsshort，turnstome，andsays: \'Weshallgetyouthroughsa，likeafiddle，andhopeapleaseyouwhenwegetyouthroughsa。Old\'oomanathomesa:\'chucklingverymuch。\'Outsidegentlemansa，heoftenrememberold\'oomanathomesa，\'grinningagain。 \'Ayay，we\'lltakecareoftheoldwoman。Don\'tbeafraid。\' Theblackdrivergrinsagain，butthereisanotherhole，andbeyondthat，anotherbank，closebeforeus。Sohestopsshort:cries(tothehorsesagain)\'Easy。Easyden。Ease。Steady。Hi。Jiddy。 Pill。Ally。Loo，\'butnever\'Lee!\'untilwearereducedtotheverylastextremity，andareinthemidstofdifficulties，extricationfromwhichappearstobeallbutimpossible。 Andsowedothetenmilesorthereaboutsintwohoursandahalf； breakingnobones，thoughbruisingagreatmany；andinshortgettingthroughthedistance，\'likeafiddle。\' ThissingularkindofcoachingterminatesatFredericksburgh，whencethereisarailwaytoRichmond。Thetractofcountrythroughwhichittakesitscoursewasonceproductive；butthesoilhasbeenexhaustedbythesystemofemployingagreatamountofslavelabourinforcingcrops，withoutstrengtheningtheland:anditisnowlittlebetterthanasandydesertovergrownwithtrees。 Drearyanduninterestingasitsaspectis，Iwasgladtothehearttofindanythingonwhichoneofthecursesofthishorribleinstitutionhasfallen；andhadgreaterpleasureincontemplatingthewitheredground，thantherichestandmostthrivingcultivationinthesameplacecouldpossiblyhaveaffordedme。 Inthisdistrict，asinallotherswhereslaverysitsbrooding，(I havefrequentlyheardthisadmitted，evenbythosewhoareitswarmestadvocates:)thereisanairofruinanddecayabroad，whichisinseparablefromthesystem。Thebarnsandouthousesaremoulderingaway；theshedsarepatchedandhalfroofless；thelogcabins(builtinVirginiawithexternalchimneysmadeofclayorwood)aresqualidinthelastdegree。Thereisnolookofdecentcomfortanywhere。Themiserablestationsbytherailwayside，thegreatwildwood-yards，whencetheengineissuppliedwithfuel；thenegrochildrenrollingonthegroundbeforethecabindoors，withdogsandpigs；thebipedbeastsofburdenslinkingpast:gloomanddejectionareuponthemall。 Inthenegrocarbelongingtothetraininwhichwemadethisjourney，wereamotherandherchildrenwhohadjustbeenpurchased；thehusbandandfatherbeingleftbehindwiththeiroldowner。Thechildrencriedthewholeway，andthemotherwasmisery\'spicture。ThechampionofLife，Liberty，andthePursuitofHappiness，whohadboughtthem，rodeinthesametrain；and，everytimewestopped，gotdowntoseethattheyweresafe。TheblackinSinbad\'sTravelswithoneeyeinthemiddleofhisforeheadwhichshonelikeaburningcoal，wasnature\'saristocratcomparedwiththiswhitegentleman。 Itwasbetweensixandseveno\'clockintheevening，whenwedrovetothehotel:infrontofwhich，andonthetopofthebroadflightofstepsleadingtothedoor，twoorthreecitizenswerebalancingthemselvesonrocking-chairs，andsmokingcigars。Wefounditaverylargeandelegantestablishment，andwereaswellentertainedastravellersneeddesiretobe。Theclimatebeingathirstyone，therewasnever，atanyhouroftheday，ascarcityofloungersinthespaciousbar，oracessationofthemixingofcoolliquors:buttheywereamerrierpeoplehere，andhadmusicalinstrumentsplayingtothemo\'nights，whichitwasatreattohearagain。 Thenextday，andthenext，werodeandwalkedaboutthetown，whichisdelightfullysituatedoneighthills，overhangingJamesRiver；asparklingstream，studdedhereandtherewithbrightislands，orbrawlingoverbrokenrocks。AlthoughitwasyetbutthemiddleofMarch，theweatherinthissoutherntemperaturewasextremelywarm；thepeech-treesandmagnoliaswereinfullbloom； andthetreesweregreen。Inalowgroundamongthehills，isavalleyknownas\'BloodyRun，\'fromaterribleconflictwiththeIndianswhichonceoccurredthere。Itisagoodplaceforsuchastruggle，and，likeeveryotherspotIsawassociatedwithanylegendofthatwildpeoplenowsorapidlyfadingfromtheearth，interestedmeverymuch。 ThecityistheseatofthelocalparliamentofVirginia；andinitsshadylegislativehalls，someoratorsweredrowsilyholdingforthtothehotnoonday。Bydintofconstantrepetition，however，theseconstitutionalsightshadverylittlemoreinterestformethansomanyparochialvestries；andIwasgladtoexchangethisoneforaloungeinawell-arrangedpubliclibraryofsometenthousandvolumes，andavisittoatobaccomanufactory，wheretheworkmenareallslaves。 Isawinthisplacethewholeprocessofpicking，rolling，pressing，drying，packingincasks，andbranding。Allthetobaccothusdealtwith，wasincourseofmanufactureforchewing；andonewouldhavesupposedtherewasenoughinthatonestorehousetohavefilledeventhecomprehensivejawsofAmerica。Inthisform，theweedlooksliketheoil-cakeonwhichwefattencattle；andevenwithoutreferencetoitsconsequences，issufficientlyuninviting。 Manyoftheworkmenappearedtobestrongmen，anditishardlynecessarytoaddthattheywerealllabouringquietly，then。Aftertwoo\'clockintheday，theyareallowedtosing，acertainnumberatatime。ThehourstrikingwhileIwasthere，sometwentysangahymninparts，andsangitbynomeansill；pursuingtheirworkmeanwhile。AbellrangasIwasabouttoleave，andtheyallpouredforthintoabuildingontheoppositesideofthestreettodinner。IsaidseveraltimesthatIshouldliketoseethemattheirmeal；butasthegentlemantowhomImentionedthisdesireappearedtobesuddenlytakenratherdeaf，Ididnotpursuetherequest。OftheirappearanceIshallhavesomethingtosay，presently。 Onthefollowingday，Ivisitedaplantationorfarm，ofabouttwelvehundredacres，ontheoppositebankoftheriver。Hereagain，althoughIwentdownwiththeowneroftheestate，to\'thequarter，\'asthatpartofitinwhichtheslavesliveiscalled，I wasnotinvitedtoenterintoanyoftheirhuts。AllIsawofthem，was，thattheywereverycrazy，wretchedcabins，neartowhichgroupsofhalf-nakedchildrenbaskedinthesun，orwallowedonthedustyground。ButIbelievethatthisgentlemanisaconsiderateandexcellentmaster，whoinheritedhisfiftyslaves，andisneitherabuyernorasellerofhumanstock；andIamsure，frommyownobservationandconviction，thatheisakind-hearted，worthyman。 Theplanter\'shousewasanairy，rusticdwelling，thatbroughtDefoe\'sdescriptionofsuchplacesstronglytomyrecollection。 Thedaywasverywarm，buttheblindsbeingallclosed，andthewindowsanddoorssetwideopen，ashadycoolnessrustledthroughtherooms，whichwasexquisitelyrefreshingaftertheglareandheatwithout。Beforethewindowswasanopenpiazza，where，inwhattheycallthehotweather-whateverthatmaybe-theyslinghammocks，anddrinkanddozeluxuriously。Idonotknowhowtheircoolrejectionsmaytastewithinthehammocks，but，havingexperience，Icanreportthat，outofthem，themoundsoficesandthebowlsofmint-julepandsherry-cobblertheymakeintheselatitudes，arerefreshmentsnevertobethoughtofafterwards，insummer，bythosewhowouldpreservecontentedminds。 Therearetwobridgesacrosstheriver:onebelongstotherailroad，andtheother，whichisaverycrazyaffair，istheprivatepropertyofsomeoldladyintheneighbourhood，wholeviestollsuponthetownspeople。Crossingthisbridge，onmywayback，Isawanoticepaintedonthegate，cautioningallpersonstodriveslowly:underapenalty，iftheoffenderwereawhiteman，offivedollars；ifanegro，fifteenstripes。 Thesamedecayandgloomthatoverhangthewaybywhichitisapproached，hoverabovethetownofRichmond。Thereareprettyvillasandcheerfulhousesinitsstreets，andNaturesmilesuponthecountryround；butjostlingitshandsomeresidences，likeslaveryitselfgoinghandinhandwithmanyloftyvirtues，aredeplorabletenements，fencesunrepaired，wallscrumblingintoruinousheaps。Hintinggloomilyatthingsbelowthesurface，these，andmanyothertokensofthesamedescription，forcethemselvesuponthenotice，andarerememberedwithdepressinginfluence，whenlivelierfeaturesareforgotten。