第9章

Tothosewhoarehappilyunaccustomedtothem，thecountenancesinthestreetsandlabouring-places，too，areshocking。Allmenwhoknowthattherearelawsagainstinstructingslaves，ofwhichthepainsandpenaltiesgreatlyexceedintheiramountthefinesimposedonthosewhomaimandtorturethem，mustbepreparedtofindtheirfacesverylowinthescaleofintellectualexpression。 Butthedarkness-notofskin，butmind-whichmeetsthestranger\'seyeateveryturn；thebrutalizingandblottingoutofallfairercharacterstracedbyNature\'shand；immeasurablyoutdohisworstbelief。Thattravelledcreationofthegreatsatirist\'sbrain，whofreshfromlivingamonghorses，peeredfromahighcasementdownuponhisownkindwithtremblinghorror，wasscarcelymorerepelledanddauntedbythesight，thanthosewholookuponsomeofthesefacesforthefirsttimemustsurelybe。 Ileftthelastofthembehindmeinthepersonofawretcheddrudge，who，afterrunningtoandfroalldaytillmidnight，andmopinginhisstealthywinksofsleepuponthestairsbetweenwhiles，waswashingthedarkpassagesatfouro\'clockinthemorning；andwentuponmywaywithagratefulheartthatIwasnotdoomedtolivewhereslaverywas，andhadneverhadmysensesbluntedtoitswrongsandhorrorsinaslave-rockedcradle。 IthadbeenmyintentiontoproceedbyJamesRiverandChesapeakeBaytoBaltimore；butoneofthesteamboatsbeingabsentfromherstationthroughsomeaccident，andthemeansofconveyancebeingconsequentlyrendereduncertain，wereturnedtoWashingtonbythewaywehadcome(thereweretwoconstablesonboardthesteamboat，inpursuitofrunawayslaves)，andhaltingthereagainforonenight，wentontoBaltimorenextafternoon。 ThemostcomfortableofallthehotelsofwhichIhadanyexperienceintheUnitedStates，andtheywerenotafew，isBarnum\'s，inthatcity:wheretheEnglishtravellerwillfindcurtainstohisbed，forthefirstandprobablythelasttimeinAmerica(thisisadisinterestedremark，forIneverusethem)；andwherehewillbelikelytohaveenoughwaterforwashinghimself，whichisnotatallacommoncase。 ThiscapitalofthestateofMarylandisabustling，busytown，withagreatdealoftrafficofvariouskinds，andinparticularofwatercommerce。Thatportionofthetownwhichitmostfavoursisnoneofthecleanest，itistrue；buttheupperpartisofaverydifferentcharacter，andhasmanyagreeablestreetsandpublicbuildings。TheWashingtonMonument，whichisahandsomepillarwithastatueonitssummit；theMedicalCollege；andtheBattleMonumentinmemoryofanengagementwiththeBritishatNorthPoint；arethemostconspicuousamongthem。 Thereisaverygoodprisoninthiscity，andtheStatePenitentiaryisalsoamongitsinstitutions。Inthislatterestablishmentthereweretwocuriouscases。 Onewasthatofayoungman，whohadbeentriedforthemurderofhisfather。Theevidencewasentirelycircumstantial，andwasveryconflictinganddoubtful；norwasitpossibletoassignanymotivewhichcouldhavetemptedhimtothecommissionofsotremendousacrime。Hehadbeentriedtwice；andonthesecondoccasionthejuryfeltsomuchhesitationinconvictinghim，thattheyfoundaverdictofmanslaughter，ormurderintheseconddegree；whichitcouldnotpossiblybe，astherehad，beyondalldoubt，beennoquarrelorprovocation，andifhewereguiltyatall，hewasunquestionablyguiltyofmurderinitsbroadestandworstsignification。 Theremarkablefeatureinthecasewas，thatiftheunfortunatedeceasedwerenotreallymurderedbythisownsonofhis，hemusthavebeenmurderedbyhisownbrother。Theevidencelayinamostremarkablemanner，betweenthosetwo。Onallthesuspiciouspoints，thedeadman\'sbrotherwasthewitness:alltheexplanationsfortheprisoner(someofthemextremelyplausible) went，byconstructionandinference，toinculcatehimasplottingtofixtheguiltuponhisnephew。Itmusthavebeenoneofthem: andthejuryhadtodecidebetweentwosetsofsuspicions，almostequallyunnatural，unaccountable，andstrange。 Theothercase，wasthatofamanwhooncewenttoacertaindistiller\'sandstoleacoppermeasurecontainingaquantityofliquor。Hewaspursuedandtakenwiththepropertyinhispossession，andwassentencedtotwoyears\'imprisonment。Oncomingoutofthejail，attheexpirationofthatterm，hewentbacktothesamedistiller\'s，andstolethesamecoppermeasurecontainingthesamequantityofliquor。Therewasnottheslightestreasontosupposethatthemanwishedtoreturntoprison:indeedeverything，butthecommissionoftheoffence，madedirectlyagainstthatassumption。Thereareonlytwowaysofaccountingforthisextraordinaryproceeding。Oneis，thatafterundergoingsomuchforthiscoppermeasureheconceivedhehadestablishedasortofclaimandrighttoit。Theotherthat，bydintoflongthinkingabout，ithadbecomeamonomaniawithhim，andhadacquiredafascinationwhichhefounditimpossibletoresist；swellingfromanEarthlyCopperGallonintoanEtherealGoldenVat。 AfterremaininghereacoupleofdaysIboundmyselftoarigidadherencetotheplanIhadlaiddownsorecently，andresolvedtosetforwardonourwesternjourneywithoutanymoredelay。 Accordingly，havingreducedtheluggagewithinthesmallestpossiblecompass(bysendingbacktoNewYork，tobeafterwardsforwardedtousinCanada，somuchofitaswasnotabsolutelywanted)；andhavingprocuredthenecessarycredentialstobanking- housesontheway；andhavingmoreoverlookedfortwoeveningsatthesettingsun，withaswell-definedanideaofthecountrybeforeusasifwehadbeengoingtotravelintotheverycentreofthatplanet；weleftBaltimorebyanotherrailwayathalf-pasteightinthemorning，andreachedthetownofYork，somesixtymilesoff，bytheearlydinner-timeoftheHotelwhichwasthestarting-placeofthefour-horsecoach，whereinweweretoproceedtoHarrisburg。 Thisconveyance，theboxofwhichIwasfortunateenoughtosecure，hadcomedowntomeetusattherailroadstation，andwasasmuddyandcumbersomeasusual。Asmorepassengerswerewaitingforusattheinn-door，thecoachmanobservedunderhisbreath，intheusualself-communicativevoice，lookingthewhileathismouldyharnessasifitweretothathewasaddressinghimself，\'IexpectweshallwantTHEBIGcoach。\' Icouldnothelpwonderingwithinmyselfwhatthesizeofthisbigcoachmightbe，andhowmanypersonsitmightbedesignedtohold； forthevehiclewhichwastoosmallforourpurposewassomethinglargerthantwoEnglishheavynightcoaches，andmighthavebeenthetwin-brotherofaFrenchDiligence。Myspeculationswerespeedilysetatrest，however，forassoonaswehaddined，therecamerumblingupthestreet，shakingitssideslikeacorpulentgiant，akindofbargeonwheels。Aftermuchblunderingandbacking，itstoppedatthedoor:rollingheavilyfromsidetosidewhenitsothermotionhadceased，asifithadtakencoldinitsdampstable，andbetweenthat，andthehavingbeenrequiredinitsdropsicaloldagetomoveatanyfasterpacethanawalk，weredistressedbyshortnessofwind。 \'Ifhereain\'ttheHarrisburgmailatlast，anddreadfulbrightandsmarttolookattoo，\'criedanelderlygentlemaninsomeexcitement，\'darnmymother!\' Idon\'tknowwhatthesensationofbeingdarnedmaybe，orwhetheraman\'smotherhasakeenerrelishordisrelishoftheprocessthananybodyelse；butiftheenduranceofthismysteriousceremonybytheoldladyinquestionhaddependedontheaccuracyofherson\'svisioninrespecttotheabstractbrightnessandsmartnessoftheHarrisburgmail，shewouldcertainlyhaveundergoneitsinfliction。 However，theybookedtwelvepeopleinside；andtheluggage(includingsuchtriflesasalargerocking-chair，andagood-sizeddining-table)beingatlengthmadefastupontheroof，westartedoffingreatstate。 Atthedoorofanotherhotel，therewasanotherpassengertobetakenup。 \'Anyroom，sir？\'criesthenewpassengertothecoachman。 \'Well，there\'sroomenough，\'repliesthecoachman，withoutgettingdown，orevenlookingathim。 \'Therean\'tnoroomatall，sir，\'bawlsagentlemaninside。Whichanothergentleman(alsoinside)confirms，bypredictingthattheattempttointroduceanymorepassengers\'won\'tfitnohow。\' Thenewpassenger，withoutanyexpressionofanxiety，looksintothecoach，andthenlooksupatthecoachman:\'Now，howdoyoumeantofixit？\'sayshe，afterapause:\'forIMUSTgo。\' Thecoachmanemployshimselfintwistingthelashofhiswhipintoaknot，andtakesnomorenoticeofthequestion:clearlysignifyingthatitisanybody\'sbusinessbuthis，andthatthepassengerswoulddowelltofixit，amongthemselves。Inthisstateofthings，mattersseemtobeapproximatingtoafixofanotherkind，whenanotherinsidepassengerinacorner，whoisnearlysuffocated，criesfaintly，\'I\'llgetout。\' Thisisnomatterofrelieforself-congratulationtothedriver，forhisimmovablephilosophyisperfectlyundisturbedbyanythingthathappensinthecoach。Ofallthingsintheworld，thecoachwouldseemtobetheverylastuponhismind。Theexchangeismade，however，andthenthepassengerwhohasgivenuphisseatmakesathirduponthebox，seatinghimselfinwhathecallsthemiddle；thatis，withhalfhispersononmylegs，andtheotherhalfonthedriver\'s。 \'Goa-head，cap\'en，\'criesthecolonel，whodirects。 \'Go-lang!\'criesthecap\'entohiscompany，thehorses，andawaywego。 Wetookupataruralbar-room，afterwehadgoneafewmiles，anintoxicatedgentlemanwhoclimbedupontheroofamongtheluggage，andsubsequentlyslippingoffwithouthurtinghimself，wasseeninthedistantperspectivereelingbacktothegrog-shopwherewehadfoundhim。Wealsopartedwithmoreofourfreightatdifferenttimes，sothatwhenwecametochangehorses，Iwasagainaloneoutside。 Thecoachmenalwayschangewiththehorses，andareusuallyasdirtyasthecoach。ThefirstwasdressedlikeaveryshabbyEnglishbaker；thesecondlikeaRussianpeasant:forheworealoosepurplecamletrobe，withafurcollar，tiedroundhiswaistwithaparti-colouredworstedsash；greytrousers；lightbluegloves:andacapofbearskin。Ithadbythistimecomeontorainveryheavily，andtherewasacolddampmistbesides，whichpenetratedtotheskin。Iwasgladtotakeadvantageofastoppageandgetdowntostretchmylegs，shakethewateroffmygreat-coat，andswallowtheusualanti-temperancerecipeforkeepingoutthecold。 WhenImountedtomyseatagain，Iobservedanewparcellyingonthecoachroof，whichItooktobearatherlargefiddleinabrownbag。Inthecourseofafewmiles，however，Idiscoveredthatithadaglazedcapatoneendandapairofmuddyshoesattheotherandfurtherobservationdemonstratedittobeasmallboyinasnuff-colouredcoat，withhisarmsquitepinionedtohissides，bydeepforcingintohispockets。Hewas，Ipresume，arelativeorfriendofthecoachman\'s，ashelaya-topoftheluggagewithhisfacetowardstherain；andexceptwhenachangeofpositionbroughthisshoesincontactwithmyhat，heappearedtobeasleep。Atlast，onsomeoccasionofourstopping，thisthingslowlyupreareditselftotheheightofthreefeetsix，andfixingitseyesonme，observedinpipingaccents，withacomplaisantyawn，halfquenchedinanobligingairoffriendlypatronage，\'Wellnow，stranger，I guessyoufindthisa\'mostlikeanEnglisharternoon，hey？\' Thescenery，whichhadbeentameenoughatfirst，was，forthelasttenortwelvemiles，beautiful。OurroadwoundthroughthepleasantvalleyoftheSusquehanna；theriver，dottedwithinnumerablegreenislands，layuponourright；andontheleft，asteepascent，craggywithbrokenrock，anddarkwithpinetrees。 Themist，wreathingitselfintoahundredfantasticshapes，movedsolemnlyuponthewater；andthegloomofeveninggavetoallanairofmysteryandsilencewhichgreatlyenhanceditsnaturalinterest。 Wecrossedthisriverbyawoodenbridge，roofedandcoveredinonallsides，andnearlyamileinlength。Itwasprofoundlydark； perplexed，withgreatbeams，crossingandrecrossingitateverypossibleangle；andthroughthebroadchinksandcrevicesinthefloor，therapidrivergleamed，fardownbelow，likealegionofeyes。Wehadnolamps；andasthehorsesstumbledandflounderedthroughthisplace，towardsthedistantspeckofdyinglight，itseemedinterminable。Ireallycouldnotatfirstpersuademyselfaswerumbledheavilyon，fillingthebridgewithhollownoises，andIhelddownmyheadtosaveitfromtheraftersabove，butthatIwasinapainfuldream；forIhaveoftendreamedoftoilingthroughsuchplaces，andasoftenargued，evenatthetime，\'thiscannotbereality。\' Atlength，however，weemergeduponthestreetsofHarrisburg，whosefeeblelights，reflecteddismallyfromthewetground，didnotshineoutuponaverycheerfulcity。Weweresoonestablishedinasnughotel，whichthoughsmallerandfarlesssplendidthanmanyweputupat，itraisedabovethemallinmyremembrance，byhavingforitslandlordthemostobliging，considerate，andgentlemanlypersonIeverhadtodealwith。 Aswewerenottoproceeduponourjourneyuntiltheafternoon，I walkedout，afterbreakfastthenextmorning，tolookaboutme；andwasdulyshownamodelprisononthesolitarysystem，justerected，andasyetwithoutaninmate；thetrunkofanoldtreetowhichHarris，thefirstsettlerhere(afterwardsburiedunderit)，wastiedbyhostileIndians，withhisfuneralpileabouthim，whenhewassavedbythetimelyappearanceofafriendlypartyontheoppositeshoreoftheriver；thelocallegislature(fortherewasanotherofthosebodieshereagain，infulldebate)；andtheothercuriositiesofthetown。 IwasverymuchinterestedinlookingoveranumberoftreatiesmadefromtimetotimewiththepoorIndians，signedbythedifferentchiefsattheperiodoftheirratification，andpreservedintheofficeoftheSecretarytotheCommonwealth。Thesesignatures，tracedofcoursebytheirownhands，areroughdrawingsofthecreaturesorweaponstheywerecalledafter。Thus，theGreatTurtlemakesacrookedpen-and-inkoutlineofagreatturtle； theBuffalosketchesabuffalo；theWarHatchetsetsaroughimageofthatweaponforhismark。SowiththeArrow，theFish，theScalp，theBigCanoe，andallofthem。 Icouldnotbutthink-asIlookedatthesefeebleandtremulousproductionsofhandswhichcoulddrawthelongestarrowtotheheadinastoutelk-hornbow，orsplitabeadorfeatherwitharifle- ball-ofCrabbe\'smusingsovertheParishRegister，andtheirregularscratchesmadewithapen，bymenwhowouldploughalengthyfurrowstraightfromendtoend。NorcouldIhelpbestowingmanysorrowfulthoughtsuponthesimplewarriorswhosehandsandheartsweresetthere，inalltruthandhonesty；andwhoonlylearnedincourseoftimefromwhitemenhowtobreaktheirfaith，andquibbleoutofformsandbonds。Iwonder，too，howmanytimesthecredulousBigTurtle，ortrustingLittleHatchet，hadputhismarktotreatieswhichwerefalselyreadtohim；andhadsignedaway，heknewnotwhat，untilitwentandcasthimlooseuponthenewpossessorsoftheland，asavageindeed。 Ourhostannounced，beforeourearlydinner，thatsomemembersofthelegislativebodyproposedtodousthehonourofcalling。Hehadkindlyyieldeduptoushiswife\'sownlittleparlour，andwhenIbeggedthathewouldshowthemin，Isawhimlookwithpainfulapprehensionatitsprettycarpet；though，beingotherwiseoccupiedatthetime，thecauseofhisuneasinessdidnotoccurtome。 Itcertainlywouldhavebeenmorepleasanttoallpartiesconcerned，andwouldnot，Ithink，havecompromisedtheirindependenceinanymaterialdegree，ifsomeofthesegentlemenhadnotonlyyieldedtotheprejudiceinfavourofspittoons，buthadabandonedthemselves，forthemoment，eventotheconventionalabsurdityofpocket-handkerchiefs。 Itstillcontinuedtorainheavily，andwhenwewentdowntotheCanalBoat(forthatwasthemodeofconveyancebywhichweweretoproceed)afterdinner，theweatherwasasunpromisingandobstinatelywetasonewoulddesiretosee。Norwasthesightofthiscanalboat，inwhichweweretospendthreeorfourdays，byanymeansacheerfulone；asitinvolvedsomeuneasyspeculationsconcerningthedisposalofthepassengersatnight，andopenedawidefieldofinquirytouchingtheotherdomesticarrangementsoftheestablishment，whichwassufficientlydisconcerting。 However，thereitwas-abargewithalittlehouseinit，viewedfromtheoutside；andacaravanatafair，viewedfromwithin:thegentlemenbeingaccommodated，asthespectatorsusuallyare，inoneofthoselocomotivemuseumsofpennywonders；andtheladiesbeingpartitionedoffbyaredcurtain，afterthemannerofthedwarfsandgiantsinthesameestablishments，whoseprivatelivesarepassedinrathercloseexclusiveness。 Wesathere，lookingsilentlyattherowoflittletables，whichextendeddownbothsidesofthecabin，andlisteningtotherainasitdrippedandpatteredontheboat，andplashedwithadismalmerrimentinthewater，untilthearrivaloftherailwaytrain，forwhosefinalcontributiontoourstockofpassengers，ourdeparturewasalonedeferred。Itbroughtagreatmanyboxes，whichwerebumpedandtossedupontheroof，almostaspainfullyasiftheyhadbeendepositedonone\'sownhead，withouttheinterventionofaporter\'sknot；andseveraldampgentlemen，whoseclothes，ontheirdrawingroundthestove，begantosteamagain。Nodoubtitwouldhavebeenathoughtmorecomfortableifthedrivingrain，whichnowpoureddownmoresoakinglythanever，hadadmittedofawindowbeingopened，orifournumberhadbeensomethinglessthanthirty； buttherewasscarcelytimetothinkasmuch，whenatrainofthreehorseswasattachedtothetow-rope，theboyupontheleadersmackedhiswhip，theruddercreakedandgroanedcomplainingly，andwehadbegunourjourney。 CHAPTERX-SOMEFURTHERACCOUNTOFTHECANALBOAT，ITSDOMESTIC ECONOMY，ANDITSPASSENGERS。JOURNEYTOPITTSBURGACROSSTHE ALLEGHANYMOUNTAINS。PITTSBURG ASitcontinuedtorainmostperseveringly，weallremainedbelow: thedampgentlemenroundthestove，graduallybecomingmildewedbytheactionofthefire；andthedrygentlemenlyingatfulllengthupontheseats，orslumberinguneasilywiththeirfacesonthetables，orwalkingupanddownthecabin，whichitwasbarelypossibleforamanofthemiddleheighttodo，withoutmakingbaldplacesonhisheadbyscrapingitagainsttheroof。Ataboutsixo\'clock，allthesmalltableswereputtogethertoformonelongtable，andeverybodysatdowntotea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steaks，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black- puddings，andsausages。 \'Willyoutry，\'saidmyoppositeneighbour，handingmeadishofpotatoes，brokenupinmilkandbutter，\'willyoutrysomeofthesefixings？\' Therearefewwordswhichperformsuchvariousdutiesasthisword\'fix。\'ItistheCalebQuotemoftheAmericanvocabulary。Youcalluponagentlemaninacountrytown，andhishelpinformsyouthatheis\'fixinghimself\'justnow，butwillbedowndirectly: bywhichyouaretounderstandthatheisdressing。Youinquire，onboardasteamboat，ofafellow-passenger，whetherbreakfastwillbereadysoon，andhetellsyouheshouldthinkso，forwhenhewaslastbelow，theywere\'fixingthetables:\'inotherwords，layingthecloth。Youbegaportertocollectyourluggage，andheentreatsyounottobeuneasy，forhe\'ll\'fixitpresently:\'andifyoucomplainofindisposition，youareadvisedtohaverecoursetoDoctorSo-and-so，whowill\'fixyou\'innotime。 Onenight，IorderedabottleofmulledwineatanhotelwhereI wasstaying，andwaitedalongtimeforit；atlengthitwasputuponthetablewithanapologyfromthelandlordthathefeareditwasn\'t\'fixedproperly。\'AndIrecollectonce，atastage-coachdinner，overhearingaverysterngentlemandemandofawaiterwhopresentedhimwithaplateofunderdoneroast-beef，\'whetherhecalledTHAT，fixingGodA\'mighty\'svittles？\' Thereisnodoubtthatthemeal，atwhichtheinvitationwastenderedtomewhichhasoccasionedthisdigression，wasdisposedofsomewhatravenously；andthatthegentlementhrustthebroad- bladedknivesandthetwo-prongedforksfurtherdowntheirthroatsthanIeversawthesameweaponsgobefore，exceptinthehandsofaskilfuljuggler:butnomansatdownuntiltheladieswereseated；oromittedanylittleactofpolitenesswhichcouldcontributetotheircomfort。NordidIeveronce，onanyoccasion，anywhere，duringmyramblesinAmerica，seeawomanexposedtotheslightestactofrudeness，incivility，oreveninattention。 Bythetimethemealwasover，therain，whichseemedtohavewornitselfoutbycomingdownsofast，wasnearlyovertoo；anditbecamefeasibletogoondeck:whichwasagreatrelief，notwithstandingitsbeingaverysmalldeck，andbeingrenderedstillsmallerbytheluggage，whichwasheapedtogetherinthemiddleunderatarpaulincovering；leaving，oneitherside，apathsonarrow，thatitbecameasciencetowalktoandfrowithouttumblingoverboardintothecanal。Itwassomewhatembarrassingatfirst，too，tohavetoducknimblyeveryfiveminuteswheneverthemanatthehelmcried\'Bridge!\'andsometimes，whenthecrywas\'LowBridge，\'toliedownnearlyflat。Butcustomfamiliarisesonetoanything，andthereweresomanybridgesthatittookaveryshorttimetogetusedtothis。 Asnightcameon，andwedrewinsightofthefirstrangeofhills，whicharetheoutpostsoftheAlleghanyMountains，thescenery，whichhadbeenuninterestinghitherto，becamemoreboldandstriking。Thewetgroundreekedandsmoked，aftertheheavyfallofrain，andthecroakingofthefrogs(whosenoiseinthesepartsisalmostincredible)soundedasthoughamillionoffairyteamswithbellsweretravellingthroughtheair，andkeepingpacewithus。Thenightwascloudyyet，butmoonlighttoo:andwhenwecrossedtheSusquehannariver-overwhichthereisanextraordinarywoodenbridgewithtwogalleries，oneabovetheother，sothateventhere，twoboatteamsmeeting，maypasswithoutconfusion-itwaswildandgrand。 Ihavementionedmyhavingbeeninsomeuncertaintyanddoubt，atfirst，relativetothesleepingarrangementsonboardthisboat。I remainedinthesamevaguestateofminduntilteno\'clockorthereabouts，whengoingbelow，Ifoundsuspendedoneithersideofthecabin，threelongtiersofhangingbookshelves，designedapparentlyforvolumesofthesmalloctavosize。Lookingwithgreaterattentionatthesecontrivances(wonderingtofindsuchliterarypreparationsinsuchaplace)，Idescriedoneachshelfasortofmicroscopicsheetandblanket；thenIbegandimlytocomprehendthatthepassengerswerethelibrary，andthattheyweretobearranged，edge-wise，ontheseshelves，tillmorning。 Iwasassistedtothisconclusionbyseeingsomeofthemgatheredroundthemasteroftheboat，atoneofthetables，drawinglotswithalltheanxietiesandpassionsofgamestersdepictedintheircountenances；whileothers，withsmallpiecesofcardboardintheirhands，weregropingamongtheshelvesinsearchofnumberscorrespondingwiththosetheyhaddrawn。Assoonasanygentlemanfoundhisnumber，hetookpossessionofitbyimmediatelyundressinghimselfandcrawlingintobed。Therapiditywithwhichanagitatedgamblersubsidedintoasnoringslumberer，wasoneofthemostsingulareffectsIhaveeverwitnessed。Astotheladies，theywerealreadyabed，behindtheredcurtain，whichwascarefullydrawnandpinnedupthecentre；thoughaseverycough，orsneeze，orwhisper，behindthiscurtain，wasperfectlyaudiblebeforeit，wehadstillalivelyconsciousnessoftheirsociety。 Thepolitenessofthepersoninauthorityhadsecuredtomeashelfinanooknearthisredcurtain，insomedegreeremovedfromthegreatbodyofsleepers:towhichplaceIretired，withmanyacknowledgmentstohimforhisattention。Ifoundit，onafter- measurement，justthewidthofanordinarysheetofBathpostletter-paper；andIwasatfirstinsomeuncertaintyastothebestmeansofgettingintoit。Buttheshelfbeingabottomone，I finallydeterminedonlyinguponthefloor，rollinggentlyin，stoppingimmediatelyItouchedthemattress，andremainingforthenightwiththatsideuppermost，whateveritmightbe。Luckily，I cameuponmybackatexactlytherightmoment。Iwasmuchalarmedonlookingupward，tosee，bytheshapeofhishalf-yardofsacking(whichhisweighthadbentintoanexceedinglytightbag)，thattherewasaveryheavygentlemanaboveme，whomtheslendercordsseemedquiteincapableofholding；andIcouldnothelpreflectinguponthegriefofmywifeandfamilyintheeventofhiscomingdowninthenight。ButasIcouldnothavegotupagainwithoutaseverebodilystruggle，whichmighthavealarmedtheladies；andasIhadnowheretogoto，evenifIhad；Ishutmyeyesuponthedanger，andremainedthere。 Oneoftworemarkablecircumstancesisindisputablyafact，withreferencetothatclassofsocietywhotravelintheseboats。 Eithertheycarrytheirrestlessnesstosuchapitchthattheyneversleepatall；ortheyexpectorateindreams，whichwouldbearemarkableminglingoftherealandideal。Allnightlong，andeverynight，onthiscanal，therewasaperfectstormandtempestofspitting；andoncemycoat，beingintheverycentreofthehurricanesustainedbyfivegentlemen(whichmovedvertically，strictlycarryingoutReid\'sTheoryoftheLawofStorms)，Iwasfainthenextmorningtolayitonthedeck，andrubitdownwithfairwaterbeforeitwasinaconditiontobewornagain。 Betweenfiveandsixo\'clockinthemorningwegotup，andsomeofuswentondeck，togivethemanopportunityoftakingtheshelvesdown；whileothers，themorningbeingverycold，crowdedroundtherustystove，cherishingthenewlykindledfire，andfillingthegratewiththosevoluntarycontributionsofwhichtheyhadbeensoliberalallnight。Thewashingaccommodationswereprimitive。 Therewasatinladlechainedtothedeck，withwhicheverygentlemanwhothoughtitnecessarytocleansehimself(manyweresuperiortothisweakness)，fishedthedirtywateroutofthecanal，andpoureditintoatinbasin，securedinlikemanner。 Therewasalsoajack-towel。And，hangingupbeforealittlelooking-glassinthebar，intheimmediatevicinityofthebreadandcheeseandbiscuits，wereapubliccombandhair-brush。 Ateighto\'clock，theshelvesbeingtakendownandputawayandthetablesjoinedtogether，everybodysatdowntothetea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，alloveragain。Somewerefondofcompoundingthisvariety，andhavingitallontheirplatesatonce。Aseachgentlemangotthroughhisownpersonalamountoftea，coffee，bread，butter，salmon，shad，liver，steak，potatoes，pickles，ham，chops，black-puddings，andsausages，heroseupandwalkedoff。Wheneverybodyhaddonewitheverything，thefragmentswereclearedaway:andoneofthewaitersappearinganewinthecharacterofabarber，shavedsuchofthecompanyasdesiredtobeshaved；whiletheremainderlookedon，oryawnedovertheirnewspapers。Dinnerwasbreakfastagain，withouttheteaandcoffee；andsupperandbreakfastwereidentical。 Therewasamanonboardthisboat，withalightfresh-colouredface，andapepper-and-saltsuitofclothes，whowasthemostinquisitivefellowthatcanpossiblybeimagined。Heneverspokeotherwisethaninterrogatively。Hewasanembodiedinquiry。 Sittingdownorstandingup，stillormoving，walkingthedeckortakinghismeals，therehewas，withagreatnoteofinterrogationineacheye，twoinhiscockedears，twomoreinhisturned-upnoseandchin，atleasthalfadozenmoreaboutthecornersofhismouth，andthelargestoneofallinhishair，whichwasbrushedpertlyoffhisforeheadinaflaxenclump。Everybuttoninhisclothessaid，\'Eh？What\'sthat？Didyouspeak？Saythatagain，willyou？\'Hewasalwayswideawake，liketheenchantedbridewhodroveherhusbandfrantic；alwaysrestless；alwaysthirstingforanswers；perpetuallyseekingandneverfinding。Thereneverwassuchacuriousman。 Iworeafurgreat-coatatthattime，andbeforewewerewellclearofthewharf，hequestionedmeconcerningit，anditsprice，andwhereIboughtit，andwhen，andwhatfuritwas，andwhatitweighed，andwhatitcost。Thenhetooknoticeofmywatch，andaskedmewhatTHATcost，andwhetheritwasaFrenchwatch，andwhereIgotit，andhowIgotit，andwhetherIboughtitorhaditgivenme，andhowitwent，andwherethekey-holewas，andwhenI woundit，everynightoreverymorning，andwhetherIeverforgottowinditatall，andifIdid，whatthen？WherehadIbeentolast，andwherewasIgoingnext，andwherewasIgoingafterthat，andhadIseenthePresident，andwhatdidhesay，andwhatdidI say，andwhatdidhesaywhenIhadsaidthat？Eh？Lornow!dotell! Findingthatnothingwouldsatisfyhim，Ievadedhisquestionsafterthefirstscoreortwo，andinparticularpleadedignorancerespectingthenameofthefurwhereofthecoatwasmade。Iamunabletosaywhetherthiswasthereason，butthatcoatfascinatedhimafterwards；heusuallykeptclosebehindmeasIwalked，andmovedasImoved，thathemightlookatitthebetter；andhefrequentlydivedintonarrowplacesaftermeattheriskofhislife，thathemighthavethesatisfactionofpassinghishanduptheback，andrubbingitthewrongway。 Wehadanotheroddspecimenonboard，ofadifferentkind。Thiswasathin-faced，spare-figuredmanofmiddleageandstature，dressedinadustydrabbish-colouredsuit，suchasIneversawbefore。Hewasperfectlyquietduringthefirstpartofthejourney:indeedIdon\'trememberhavingsomuchasseenhimuntilhewasbroughtoutbycircumstances，asgreatmenoftenare。Theconjunctionofeventswhichmadehimfamous，happened，briefly，thus。 Thecanalextendstothefootofthemountain，andthere，ofcourse，itstops；thepassengersbeingconveyedacrossitbylandcarriage，andtakenonafterwardsbyanothercanalboat，thecounterpartofthefirst，whichawaitsthemontheotherside。 Therearetwocanallinesofpassage-boats；oneiscalledTheExpress，andone(acheaperone)ThePioneer。ThePioneergetsfirsttothemountain，andwaitsfortheExpresspeopletocomeup； bothsetsofpassengersbeingconveyedacrossitatthesametime。 WeweretheExpresscompany；butwhenwehadcrossedthemountain，andhadcometothesecondboat，theproprietorstookitintotheirbeadstodraftallthePioneersintoitlikewise，sothatwewerefive-and-fortyatleast，andtheaccessionofpassengerswasnotatallofthatkindwhichimprovedtheprospectofsleepingatnight。 Ourpeoplegrumbledatthis，aspeopledoinsuchcases；butsufferedtheboattobetowedoffwiththewholefreightaboardnevertheless；andawaywewentdownthecanal。Athome，Ishouldhaveprotestedlustily，butbeingaforeignerhere，Iheldmypeace。Notsothispassenger。Hecleftapathamongthepeopleondeck(wewerenearlyallondeck)，andwithoutaddressinganybodywhomsoever，soliloquisedasfollows: \'ThismaysuitYOU，thismay，butitdon\'tsuitME。ThismaybeallverywellwithDownEasters，andmenofBostonraising，butitwon\'tsuitmyfigurenohow；andnotwowaysaboutTHAT；andsoI tellyou。Now!I\'mfromthebrownforestsofMississippi，Iam，andwhenthesunshinesonme，itdoesshine-alittle。Itdon\'tglimmerwhereIlive，thesundon\'t。No。I\'mabrownforester，I am。Ian\'taJohnnyCake。TherearenosmoothskinswhereIlive。 We\'reroughmenthere。Rather。IfDownEastersandmenofBostonraisinglikethis，I\'mgladofit，butI\'mnoneofthatraisingnorofthatbreed。No。Thiscompanywantsalittlefixing，ITdoes。 I\'mthewrongsortofmanfor\'em，Iam。Theywon\'tlikeme，THEY won\'t。Thisispilingofitup，alittletoomountainous，thisis。\'Attheendofeveryoneoftheseshortsentencesheturneduponhisheel，andwalkedtheotherway；checkinghimselfabruptlywhenhehadfinishedanothershortsentence，andturningbackagain。 Itisimpossibleformetosaywhatterrificmeaningwashiddeninthewordsofthisbrownforester，butIknowthattheotherpassengerslookedoninasortofadmiringhorror，andthatpresentlytheboatwasputbacktothewharf，andasmanyofthePioneersascouldbecoaxedorbulliedintogoingaway，weregotridof。 Whenwestartedagain，someoftheboldestspiritsonboard，madeboldtosaytotheobviousoccasionofthisimprovementinourprospects，\'Muchobligedtoyou，sir；\'whereuntothebrownforester(wavinghishand，andstillwalkingupanddownasbefore)，replied，\'Noyouan\'t。You\'renoneo\'myraising。Youmayactforyourselves，YOUmay。Ihavepintedouttheway。DownEastersandJohnnyCakescanfollowiftheyplease。Ian\'taJohnnyCake，I an\'t。IamfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam\'-andsoon，asbefore。Hewasunanimouslyvotedoneofthetablesforhisbedatnight-thereisagreatcontestforthetables-inconsiderationforhispublicservices:andhehadthewarmestcornerbythestovethroughouttherestofthejourney。ButI nevercouldfindoutthathedidanythingexceptsitthere；nordidIhearhimspeakagainuntil，inthemidstofthebustleandturmoilofgettingtheluggageashoreinthedarkatPittsburg，I stumbledoverhimashesatsmokingacigaronthecabinsteps，andheardhimmutteringtohimself，withashortlaughofdefiance，\'I an\'taJohnnyCake，-Ian\'t。I\'mfromthebrownforestsoftheMississippi，Iam，damme!\'Iaminclinedtoarguefromthis，thathehadneverleftoffsayingso；butIcouldnotmakeanaffidavitofthatpartofthestory，ifrequiredtodosobymyQueenandCountry。 AswehavenotreachedPittsburgyet，however，intheorderofournarrative，Imaygoontoremarkthatbreakfastwasperhapstheleastdesirablemealoftheday，asinadditiontothemanysavouryodoursarisingfromtheeatablesalreadymentioned，therewerewhiffsofgin，whiskey，brandy，andrum，fromthelittlebarhardby，andadecidedseasoningofstaletobacco。Manyofthegentlemenpassengerswerefarfromparticularinrespectoftheirlinen，whichwasinsomecasesasyellowasthelittlerivuletsthathadtrickledfromthecornersoftheirmouthsinchewing，anddriedthere。Norwastheatmospherequitefreefromzephyrwhisperingsofthethirtybedswhichhadjustbeenclearedaway，andofwhichwewerefurtherandmorepressinglyremindedbytheoccasionalappearanceonthetable-clothofakindofGame，notmentionedintheBillofFare。 Andyetdespitetheseoddities-andeventheyhad，formeatleast，ahumouroftheirown-therewasmuchinthismodeoftravellingwhichIheartilyenjoyedatthetime，andlookbackuponwithgreatpleasure。Eventherunningup，bare-necked，atfiveo\'clockinthemorning，fromthetaintedcabintothedirtydeck； scoopinguptheicywater，plungingone\'sheadintoit，anddrawingitout，allfreshandglowingwiththecold；wasagoodthing。Thefast，briskwalkuponthetowing-path，betweenthattimeandbreakfast，wheneveryveinandarteryseemedtotinglewithhealth； theexquisitebeautyoftheopeningday，whenlightcamegleamingofffromeverything；thelazymotionoftheboat，whenonelayidlyonthedeck，lookingthrough，ratherthanat，thedeepbluesky； theglidingonatnight，sonoiselessly，pastfrowninghills，sullenwithdarktrees，andsometimesangryinonered，burningspothighup，whereunseenmenlaycrouchingroundafire；theshiningoutofthebrightstarsundisturbedbynoiseofwheelsorsteam，oranyothersoundthanthelimpidripplingofthewaterastheboatwenton:allthesewerepuredelights。 Thentherewerenewsettlementsanddetachedlog-cabinsandframe- houses，fullofinterestforstrangersfromanoldcountry:cabinswithsimpleovens，outside，madeofclay；andlodgingsforthepigsnearlyasgoodasmanyofthehumanquarters；brokenwindows，patchedwithworn-outhats，oldclothes，oldboards，fragmentsofblanketsandpaper；andhome-madedressersstandingintheopenairwithoutthedoor，whereonwasrangedthehouseholdstore，nothardtocount，ofearthenjarsandpots。Theeyewaspainedtoseethestumpsofgreattreesthicklystrewnineveryfieldofwheat，andseldomtolosetheeternalswampanddullmorass，withhundredsofrottentrunksandtwistedbranchessteepedinitsunwholesomewater。Itwasquitesadandoppressive，tocomeupongreattractswheresettlershadbeenburningdownthetrees，andwheretheirwoundedbodieslayabout，likethoseofmurderedcreatures，whilehereandtheresomecharredandblackenedgiantrearedalofttwowitheredarms，andseemedtocalldowncursesonhisfoes。 Sometimes，atnight，thewaywoundthroughsomelonelygorge，likeamountainpassinScotland，shiningandcoldlyglitteringinthelightofthemoon，andsoclosedinbyhighsteephillsallround，thatthereseemedtobenoegresssavethroughthenarrowerpathbywhichwehadcome，untiloneruggedhill-sideseemedtoopen，andshuttingoutthemoonlightaswepassedintoitsgloomythroat，wrappedournewcourseinshadeanddarkness。 WehadleftHarrisburgonFriday。OnSundaymorningwearrivedatthefootofthemountain，whichiscrossedbyrailroad。Thereareteninclinedplanes；fiveascending，andfivedescending；thecarriagesaredraggeduptheformer，andletslowlydownthelatter，bymeansofstationaryengines；thecomparativelylevelspacesbetween，beingtraversed，sometimesbyhorse，andsometimesbyenginepower，asthecasedemands。Occasionallytherailsarelaidupontheextremevergeofagiddyprecipice；andlookingfromthecarriagewindow，thetravellergazessheerdown，withoutastoneorscrapoffencebetween，intothemountaindepthsbelow。 Thejourneyisverycarefullymade，however；onlytwocarriagestravellingtogether；andwhileproperprecautionsaretaken，isnottobedreadedforitsdangers。 Itwasveryprettytravellingthus，atarapidpacealongtheheightsofthemountaininakeenwind，tolookdownintoavalleyfulloflightandsoftness；catchingglimpses，throughthetree-