第11章

tohavethesesocialsacramentsstrippedofeverythingbutthemeregreedysatisfactionofthenaturalcravings；goessoagainstthegrainwithme，thatIseriouslybelievetherecollectionofthesefuneralfeastswillbeawakingnightmaretomeallmylife。 Therewassomereliefinthisboat，too，whichtherehadnotbeenintheother，forthecaptain(ablunt，good-naturedfellow)hadhishandsomewifewithhim，whowasdisposedtobelivelyandagreeable，aswereafewotherlady-passengerswhohadtheirseatsaboutusatthesameendofthetable。Butnothingcouldhavemadeheadagainstthedepressinginfluenceofthegeneralbody。Therewasamagnetismofdulnessinthemwhichwouldhavebeatendownthemostfacetiouscompanionthattheeartheverknew。Ajestwouldhavebeenacrime，andasmilewouldhavefadedintoagrinninghorror。Suchdeadly，leadenpeople；suchsystematicplodding，weary，insupportableheaviness；suchamassofanimatedindigestioninrespectofallthatwasgenial，jovial，frank，social，orhearty；never，sure，wasbroughttogetherelsewheresincetheworldbegan。 Norwasthescenery，asweapproachedthejunctionoftheOhioandMississippirivers，atallinspiritinginitsinfluence。Thetreeswerestuntedintheirgrowth；thebankswerelowandflat；thesettlementsandlogcabinsfewerinnumber:theirinhabitantsmorewanandwretchedthananywehadencounteredyet。Nosongsofbirdswereintheair，nopleasantscents，nomovinglightsandshadowsfromswiftpassingclouds。Hourafterhour，thechangelessglareofthehot，unwinkingsky，shoneuponthesamemonotonousobjects。Hourafterhour，theriverrolledalong，aswearilyandslowlyasthetimeitself。 Atlength，uponthemorningofthethirdday，wearrivedataspotsomuchmoredesolatethananywehadyetbeheld，thattheforlornestplaceswehadpassed，were，incomparisonwithit，fullofinterest。Atthejunctionofthetworivers，ongroundsoflatandlowandmarshy，thatatcertainseasonsoftheyearitisinundatedtothehouse-tops，liesabreeding-placeoffever，ague，anddeath；vauntedinEnglandasamineofGoldenHope，andspeculatedin，onthefaithofmonstrousrepresentations，tomanypeople\'sruin。Adismalswamp，onwhichthehalf-builthousesrotaway:clearedhereandthereforthespaceofafewyards；andteeming，then，withrankunwholesomevegetation，inwhosebalefulshadethewretchedwandererswhoaretemptedhither，droop，anddie，andlaytheirbones；thehatefulMississippicirclingandeddyingbeforeit，andturningoffuponitssoutherncourseaslimymonsterhideoustobehold；ahotbedofdisease，anuglysepulchre，agraveuncheeredbyanygleamofpromise:aplacewithoutonesinglequality，inearthorairorwater，tocommendit:suchisthisdismalCairo。 ButwhatwordsshalldescribetheMississippi，greatfatherofrivers，who(praisebetoHeaven)hasnoyoungchildrenlikehim! Anenormousditch，sometimestwoorthreemileswide，runningliquidmud，sixmilesanhour:itsstrongandfrothycurrentchokedandobstructedeverywherebyhugelogsandwholeforesttrees:nowtwiningthemselvestogetheringreatrafts，fromtheintersticesofwhichasedgy，lazyfoamworksup，tofloatuponthewater\'stop；nowrollingpastlikemonstrousbodies，theirtangledrootsshowinglikemattedhair；nowglancingsinglybylikegiantleeches；andnowwrithingroundandroundinthevortexofsomesmallwhirlpool，likewoundedsnakes。Thebankslow，thetreesdwarfish，themarshesswarmingwithfrogs，thewretchedcabinsfewandfarapart，theirinmateshollow-cheekedandpale，theweatherveryhot，mosquitoespenetratingintoeverycrackandcreviceoftheboat，mudandslimeoneverything:nothingpleasantinitsaspect，buttheharmlesslightningwhichflickerseverynightuponthedarkhorizon。 Fortwodayswetoiledupthisfoulstream，strikingconstantlyagainstthefloatingtimber，orstoppingtoavoidthosemoredangerousobstacles，thesnags，orsawyers，whicharethehiddentrunksoftreesthathavetheirrootsbelowthetide。Whenthenightsareverydark，thelook-outstationedintheheadoftheboat，knowsbytherippleofthewaterifanygreatimpedimentbenearathand，andringsabellbesidehim，whichisthesignalfortheenginetobestopped:butalwaysinthenightthisbellhasworktodo，andaftereveryring，therecomesablowwhichrendersitnoeasymattertoremaininbed。 Thedeclineofdayherewasverygorgeous；tingeingthefirmamentdeeplywithredandgold，uptotheverykeystoneofthearchaboveus。Asthesunwentdownbehindthebank，theslightestbladesofgrassuponitseemedtobecomeasdistinctlyvisibleasthearteriesintheskeletonofaleaf；andwhen，asitslowlysank，theredandgoldenbarsuponthewatergrewdimmer，anddimmeryet，asiftheyweresinkingtoo；andalltheglowingcoloursofdepartingdaypaled，inchbyinch，beforethesombrenight；thescenebecameathousandtimesmorelonesomeandmoredrearythanbefore，andallitsinfluencesdarkenedwiththesky。 Wedrankthemuddywaterofthisriverwhilewewereuponit。Itisconsideredwholesomebythenatives，andissomethingmoreopaquethangruel。IhaveseenwaterlikeitattheFilter-shops，butnowhereelse。 OnthefourthnightafterleavingLouisville，wereachedSt。Louis，andhereIwitnessedtheconclusionofanincident，triflingenoughinitself，butverypleasanttosee，whichhadinterestedmeduringthewholejourney。 Therewasalittlewomanonboard，withalittlebaby；andbothlittlewomanandlittlechildwerecheerful，good-looking，bright- eyed，andfairtosee。ThelittlewomanhadbeenpassingalongtimewithhersickmotherinNewYork，andhadleftherhomeinSt。 Louis，inthatconditioninwhichladieswhotrulylovetheirlordsdesiretobe。Thebabywasborninhermother\'shouse；andshehadnotseenherhusband(towhomshewasnowreturning)，fortwelvemonths:havinglefthimamonthortwoaftertheirmarriage。 Well，tobesure，thereneverwasalittlewomansofullofhope，andtenderness，andlove，andanxiety，asthislittlewomanwas: andalldaylongshewonderedwhether\'He\'wouldbeatthewharf； andwhether\'He\'hadgotherletter；andwhether，ifshesentthebabyashorebysomebodyelse，\'He\'wouldknowit，meetingitinthestreet:which，seeingthathehadneverseteyesuponitinhislife，wasnotverylikelyintheabstract，butwasprobableenough，totheyoungmother。Shewassuchanartlesslittlecreature；andwasinsuchasunny，beaming，hopefulstate；andletoutallthismatterclingingcloseaboutherheart，sofreely；thatalltheotherladypassengersenteredintothespiritofitasmuchasshe； andthecaptain(whoheardallaboutitfromhiswife)waswondroussly，Ipromiseyou:inquiring，everytimewemetattable，asinforgetfulness，whethersheexpectedanybodytomeetheratSt。 Louis，andwhethershewouldwanttogoashorethenightwereachedit(buthesupposedshewouldn\'t)，andcuttingmanyotherdryjokesofthatnature。Therewasonelittleweazen，dried-apple-facedoldwoman，whotookoccasiontodoubttheconstancyofhusbandsinsuchcircumstancesofbereavement；andtherewasanotherlady(withalap-dog)oldenoughtomoralizeonthelightnessofhumanaffections，andyetnotsooldthatshecouldhelpnursingthebaby，nowandthen，orlaughingwiththerest，whenthelittlewomancalleditbyitsfather\'sname，andaskeditallmanneroffantasticquestionsconcerninghiminthejoyofherheart。 Itwassomethingofablowtothelittlewoman，thatwhenwewerewithintwentymilesofourdestination，itbecameclearlynecessarytoputthisbabytobed。Butshegotoveritwiththesamegoodhumour；tiedahandkerchiefroundherhead；andcameoutintothelittlegallerywiththerest。Then，suchanoracleasshebecameinreferencetothelocalities!andsuchfacetiousnessaswasdisplayedbythemarriedladies!andsuchsympathyaswasshownbythesingleones!andsuchpealsoflaughterasthelittlewomanherself(whowouldjustassoonhavecried)greetedeveryjestwith! Atlast，therewerethelightsofSt。Louis，andherewasthewharf，andthosewerethesteps:andthelittlewomancoveringherfacewithherhands，andlaughing(orseemingtolaugh)morethanever，ranintoherowncabin，andshutherselfup。Ihavenodoubtthatinthecharminginconsistencyofsuchexcitement，shestoppedherears，lestsheshouldhear\'Him\'askingforher:butIdidnotseeherdoit。 Then，agreatcrowdofpeoplerushedonboard，thoughtheboatwasnotyetmadefast，butwaswanderingabout，amongtheotherboats，tofindalanding-place:andeverybodylookedforthehusband: andnobodysawhim:when，inthemidstofusall-Heavenknowshowsheevergotthere-therewasthelittlewomanclingingwithbotharmstightroundtheneckofafine，good-looking，sturdyyoungfellow!andinamomentafterwards，thereshewasagain，actuallyclappingherlittlehandsforjoy，asshedraggedhimthroughthesmalldoorofhersmallcabin，tolookatthebabyashelayasleep! Wewenttoalargehotel，calledthePlanter\'sHouse:builtlikeanEnglishhospital，withlongpassagesandbarewalls，andsky- lightsabovetheroom-doorsforthefreecirculationofair。Therewereagreatmanyboardersinit；andasmanylightssparkledandglistenedfromthewindowsdownintothestreetbelow，whenwedroveup，asifithadbeenilluminatedonsomeoccasionofrejoicing。Itisanexcellenthouse，andtheproprietorshavemostbountifulnotionsofprovidingthecreaturecomforts。Diningalonewithmywifeinourownroom，oneday，Icountedfourteendishesonthetableatonce。 IntheoldFrenchportionofthetown，thethoroughfaresarenarrowandcrooked，andsomeofthehousesareveryquaintandpicturesque:beingbuiltofwood，withtumble-downgalleriesbeforethewindows，approachablebystairsorratherladdersfromthestreet。Therearequeerlittlebarbers\'shopsanddrinking- housestoo，inthisquarter；andabundanceofcrazyoldtenementswithblinkingcasements，suchasmaybeseeninFlanders。Someoftheseancienthabitations，withhighgarretgable-windowsperkingintotheroofs，haveakindofFrenchshrugaboutthem；andbeinglop-sidedwithage，appeartoholdtheirheadsaskew，besides，asiftheyweregrimacinginastonishmentattheAmericanImprovements。 Itishardlynecessarytosay，thattheseconsistofwharfsandwarehouses，andnewbuildingsinalldirections；andofagreatmanyvastplanswhicharestill\'progressing。\'Already，however，someverygoodhouses，broadstreets，andmarble-frontedshops，havegonesofaraheadastobeinastateofcompletion；andthetownbidsfairinafewyearstoimproveconsiderably:thoughitisnotlikelyevertovie，inpointofeleganceorbeauty，withCincinnati。 TheRomanCatholicreligion，introducedherebytheearlyFrenchsettlers，prevailsextensively。AmongthepublicinstitutionsareaJesuitcollege；aconventfor\'theLadiesoftheSacredHeart；\' andalargechapelattachedtothecollege，whichwasincourseoferectionatthetimeofmyvisit，andwasintendedtobeconsecratedonthesecondofDecemberinthenextyear。Thearchitectofthisbuilding，isoneofthereverendfathersoftheschool，andtheworksproceedunderhissoledirection。TheorganwillbesentfromBelgium。 Inadditiontotheseestablishments，thereisaRomanCatholiccathedral，dedicatedtoSaintFrancisXavier；andahospital，foundedbythemunificenceofadeceasedresident，whowasamemberofthatchurch。ItalsosendsmissionariesfromhenceamongtheIndiantribes。 TheUnitarianchurchisrepresented，inthisremoteplace，asinmostotherpartsofAmerica，byagentlemanofgreatworthandexcellence。Thepoorhavegoodreasontorememberandblessit； foritbefriendsthem，andaidsthecauseofrationaleducation，withoutanysectarianorselfishviews。Itisliberalinallitsactions；ofkindconstruction；andofwidebenevolence。 Therearethreefree-schoolsalreadyerected，andinfulloperationinthiscity。Afourthisbuilding，andwillsoonbeopened。 Nomaneveradmitstheunhealthinessoftheplacehedwellsin(unlessheisgoingawayfromit)，andIshalltherefore，Ihavenodoubt，beatissuewiththeinhabitantsofSt。Louis，inquestioningtheperfectsalubrityofitsclimate，andinhintingthatIthinkitmustratherdisposetofever，inthesummerandautumnalseasons。Justadding，thatitisveryhot，liesamonggreatrivers，andhasvasttractsofundrainedswampylandaroundit，Ileavethereadertoformhisownopinion。 AsIhadagreatdesiretoseeaPrairiebeforeturningbackfromthefurthestpointofmywanderings；andassomegentlemenofthetownhad，intheirhospitableconsideration，anequaldesiretogratifyme；adaywasfixed，beforemydeparture，foranexpeditiontotheLooking-GlassPrairie，whichiswithinthirtymilesofthetown。Deemingitpossiblethatmyreadersmaynotobjecttoknowwhatkindofthingsuchagipsypartymaybeatthatdistancefromhome，andamongwhatsortofobjectsitmoves，Iwilldescribethejauntinanotherchapter。 CHAPTERXIII-AJAUNTTOTHELOOKING-GLASSPRAIRIEANDBACK IMAYpremisethatthewordPrairieisvariouslypronouncedPARAAER，PAREARER，PAROARER。Thelattermodeofpronunciationisperhapsthemostinfavour。 Wewerefourteeninall，andallyoungmen:indeeditisasingularthoughverynaturalfeatureinthesocietyofthesedistantsettlements，thatitismainlycomposedofadventurouspersonsintheprimeoflife，andhasveryfewgreyheadsamongit。 Therewerenoladies:thetripbeingafatiguingone:andweweretostartatfiveo\'clockinthemorningpunctually。 Iwascalledatfour，thatImightbecertainofkeepingnobodywaiting；andhavinggotsomebreadandmilkforbreakfast，threwupthewindowandlookeddownintothestreet，expectingtoseethewholepartybusilyastir，andgreatpreparationsgoingonbelow。 Butaseverythingwasveryquiet，andthestreetpresentedthathopelessaspectwithwhichfiveo\'clockinthemorningisfamiliarelsewhere，Ideemeditaswelltogotobedagain，andwentaccordingly。 Iwokeagainatseveno\'clock，andbythattimethepartyhadassembled，andweregatheredround，onelightcarriage，withaverystoutaxletree；onesomethingonwheelslikeanamateurcarrier\'scart；onedoublephaetonofgreatantiquityandunearthlyconstruction；onegigwithagreatholeinitsbackandabrokenhead；andonerideronhorsebackwhowastogoonbefore。Igotintothefirstcoachwiththreecompanions；therestbestowedthemselvesintheothervehicles；twolargebasketsweremadefasttothelightest；twolargestonejarsinwickercases，technicallyknownasdemi-johns，wereconsignedtothe\'leastrowdy\'ofthepartyforsafe-keeping；andtheprocessionmovedofftotheferryboat，inwhichitwastocrosstheriverbodily，men，horses，carriages，andall，asthemannerinthesepartsis。 Wegotovertheriverinduecourse，andmusteredagainbeforealittlewoodenboxonwheels，hovedownallaslantinamorass，with\'MERCHANTTAILOR\'paintedinverylargelettersoverthedoor。 Havingsettledtheorderofproceeding，andtheroadtobetaken，westartedoffoncemoreandbegantomakeourwaythroughanill- favouredBlackHollow，called，lessexpressively，theAmericanBottom。 Thepreviousdayhadbeen-nottosayhot，forthetermisweakandlukewarminitspowerofconveyinganideaofthetemperature。 Thetownhadbeenonfire；inablaze。Butatnightithadcomeontorainintorrents，andallnightlongithadrainedwithoutcessation。Wehadapairofverystronghorses，buttravelledattherateoflittlemorethanacoupleofmilesanhour，throughoneunbrokensloughofblackmudandwater。Ithadnovarietybutindepth。Nowitwasonlyhalfoverthewheels，nowithidtheaxletree，andnowthecoachsankdowninitalmosttothewindows。 Theairresoundedinalldirectionswiththeloudchirpingofthefrogs，who，withthepigs(acoarse，uglybreed，asunwholesome- lookingasthoughtheywerethespontaneousgrowthofthecountry)，hadthewholescenetothemselves。Hereandtherewepassedaloghut:butthewretchedcabinswerewideapartandthinlyscattered，forthoughthesoilisveryrichinthisplace，fewpeoplecanexistinsuchadeadlyatmosphere。Oneithersideofthetrack，ifitdeservethename，wasthethick\'bush；\'andeverywherewasstagnant，slimy，rotten，filthywater。 Asitisthecustominthesepartstogiveahorseagallonorsoofcoldwaterwheneverheisinafoamwithheat，wehaltedforthatpurpose，ataloginninthewood，farremovedfromanyotherresidence。Itconsistedofoneroom，bare-roofedandbare-walledofcourse，withaloftabove。Theministeringpriestwasaswarthyyoungsavage，inashirtofcottonprintlikebed-furniture，andapairofraggedtrousers。Therewereacoupleofyoungboys，too，nearlynaked，lyingidlebythewell；andthey，andhe，andTHE travellerattheinn，turnedouttolookatus。 Thetravellerwasanoldmanwithagreygristlybeardtwoincheslong，ashaggymoustacheofthesamehue，andenormouseyebrows； whichalmostobscuredhislazy，semi-drunkenglance，ashestoodregardinguswithfoldedarms:poisinghimselfalternatelyuponhistoesandheels。Onbeingaddressedbyoneoftheparty，hedrewnearer，andsaid，rubbinghischin(whichscrapedunderhishornyhandlikefreshgravelbeneathanailedshoe)，thathewasfromDelaware，andhadlatelyboughtafarm\'downthere，\'pointingintooneofthemarsheswherethestuntedtreeswerethickest。Hewas\'going，\'headded，toSt。Louis，tofetchhisfamily，whomhehadleftbehind；butheseemedinnogreathurrytobringontheseincumbrances，forwhenwemovedaway，heloiteredbackintothecabin，andwasplainlybentonstoppingtheresolongashismoneylasted。Hewasagreatpoliticianofcourse，andexplainedhisopinionsatsomelengthtooneofourcompany；butIonlyrememberthatheconcludedwithtwosentiments，oneofwhichwas，Somebodyforever；andtheother，Blasteverybodyelse!whichisbynomeansabadabstractofthegeneralcreedinthesematters。 Whenthehorseswereswollenouttoabouttwicetheirnaturaldimensions(thereseemstobeanideahere，thatthiskindofinflationimprovestheirgoing)，wewentforwardagain，throughmudandmire，anddamp，andfesteringheat，andbrakeandbush，attendedalwaysbythemusicofthefrogsandpigs，untilnearlynoon，whenwehaltedataplacecalledBelleville。 Bellevillewasasmallcollectionofwoodenhouses，huddledtogetherintheveryheartofthebushandswamp。Manyofthemhadsingularlybrightdoorsofredandyellow；fortheplacehadbeenlatelyvisitedbyatravellingpainter，\'whogotalong，\'asIwastold，\'byeatinghisway。\'Thecriminalcourtwassitting，andwasatthatmomenttryingsomecriminalsforhorse-stealing:withwhomitwouldmostlikelygohard:forlivestockofallkindsbeingnecessarilyverymuchexposedinthewoods，isheldbythecommunityinratherhighervaluethanhumanlife；andforthisreason，juriesgenerallymakeapointoffindingallmenindictedforcattle-stealing，guilty，whetherorno。 Thehorsesbelongingtothebar，thejudge，andwitnesses，weretiedtotemporaryrackssetuproughlyintheroad；bywhichistobeunderstood，aforestpath，nearlyknee-deepinmudandslime。 Therewasanhotelinthisplace，which，likeallhotelsinAmerica，haditslargedining-roomforthepublictable。Itwasanodd，shambling，low-roofedout-house，half-cowshedandhalf- kitchen，withacoarsebrowncanvastable-cloth，andtinsconcesstuckagainstthewalls，toholdcandlesatsupper-time。Thehorsemanhadgoneforwardtohavecoffeeandsomeeatablesprepared，andtheywerebythistimenearlyready。Hehadordered\'wheat-breadandchickenfixings，\'inpreferenceto\'corn-breadandcommondoings。\'Thelatterkindofrejectionincludesonlyporkandbacon。Theformercomprehendsbroiledham，sausages，vealcutlets，steaks，andsuchotherviandsofthatnatureasmaybesupposed，byatolerablywidepoeticalconstruction，\'tofix\'achickencomfortablyinthedigestiveorgansofanyladyorgentleman。 Ononeofthedoor-postsatthisinn，wasatinplate，whereonwasinscribedincharactersofgold，\'DoctorCrocus；\'andonasheetofpaper，pastedupbythesideofthisplate，wasawrittenannouncementthatDr。Crocuswouldthateveningdelivera Thebeditselfwascoveredwithanoldpatch-workcounterpane。Theroomwasdestituteofcarpetorofcurtain。Therewasadampfireplacewithoutanystove，fullofwoodashes；achair，andaverysmalltable；andonthelast-namedpieceoffurniturewasdisplayed，ingrandarray，thedoctor\'slibrary，consistingofsomehalf-dozengreasyoldbooks。 Now，itcertainlylookedaboutthelastapartmentonthewholeearthoutofwhichanymanwouldbelikelytogetanythingtodohimgood。Butthedoor，asIhavesaid，stoodcoaxinglyopen，andplainlysaidinconjunctionwiththechair，theportrait，thetable，andthebooks，\'Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!Don\'tbeill，gentlemen，whenyoumaybewellinnotime。DoctorCrocusishere，gentlemen，thecelebratedDr。Crocus!Dr。Crocushascomeallthiswaytocureyou，gentlemen。Ifyouhaven\'theardofDr。Crocus，it\'syourfault，gentlemen，wholivealittlewayoutoftheworldhere:notDr。Crocus\'s。Walkin，gentlemen，walkin!\' Inthepassagebelow，whenIwentdown-stairsagain，wasDr。Crocushimself。AcrowdhadflockedinfromtheCourtHouse，andavoicefromamongthemcalledouttothelandlord，\'Colonel!introduceDoctorCrocus。\' \'Mr。Dickens，\'saysthecolonel，\'DoctorCrocus。\' UponwhichDoctorCrocus，whoisatall，fine-lookingScotchman，butratherfierceandwarlikeinappearanceforaprofessorofthepeacefulartofhealing，burstsoutoftheconcoursewithhisrightarmextended，andhischestthrownoutasfarasitwillpossiblycome，andsays: \'Yourcountryman，sir!\' WhereuponDoctorCrocusandIshakehands；andDoctorCrocuslooksasifIdidn\'tbyanymeansrealisehisexpectations，which，inalinenblouse，andagreatstrawhat，withagreenribbon，andnogloves，andmyfaceandnoseprofuselyornamentedwiththestingsofmosquitoesandthebitesofbugs，itisverylikelyIdidnot。 \'Longintheseparts，sir？\'saysI。 \'Threeorfourmonths，sir，\'saystheDoctor。 \'Doyouthinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry？\'saysI。 DoctorCrocusmakesnoverbalanswer，butgivesmeanimploringlook，whichsayssoplainly\'Willyouaskmethatagain，alittlelouder，ifyouplease？\'thatIrepeatthequestion。 \'Thinkofsoonreturningtotheoldcountry，sir!\'repeatstheDoctor。 \'Totheoldcountry，sir，\'Irejoin。 DoctorCrocuslooksrounduponthecrowdtoobservetheeffectheproduces，rubshishands，andsays，inaveryloudvoice: \'Notyetawhile，sir，notyet。Youwon\'tcatchmeatthatjustyet，sir。IamalittletoofondoffreedomforTHAT，sir。Ha，ha!It\'snotsoeasyforamantotearhimselffromafreecountrysuchasthisis，sir。Ha，ha!No，no!Ha，ha!Noneofthattillone\'sobligedtodoit，sir。No，no!\' AsDoctorCrocussaystheselatterwords，heshakeshishead，knowingly，andlaughsagain。Manyofthebystandersshaketheirheadsinconcertwiththedoctor，andlaughtoo，andlookateachotherasmuchastosay，\'Aprettybrightandfirst-ratesortofchapisCrocus!\'andunlessIamverymuchmistaken，agoodmanypeoplewenttothelecturethatnight，whoneverthoughtaboutphrenology，oraboutDoctorCrocuseither，inalltheirlivesbefore。 FromBelleville，wewenton，throughthesamedesolatekindofwaste，andconstantlyattended，withouttheintervalofamoment，bythesamemusic；until，atthreeo\'clockintheafternoon，wehaltedoncemoreatavillagecalledLebanontoinflatethehorsesagain，andgivethemsomecornbesides:ofwhichtheystoodmuchinneed。Pendingthisceremony，Iwalkedintothevillage，whereI metafull-sizeddwelling-housecomingdown-hillataroundtrot，drawnbyascoreormoreofoxen。 Thepublic-housewassoverycleanandgoodaone，thatthemanagersofthejauntresolvedtoreturntoitandputupthereforthenight，ifpossible。Thiscoursedecidedon，andthehorsesbeingwellrefreshed，weagainpushedforward，andcameuponthePrairieatsunset。 Itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy，orhow-thoughitwaspossiblyfromhavingheardandreadsomuchaboutit-buttheeffectonmewasdisappointment。Lookingtowardsthesettingsun，therelay，stretchedoutbeforemyview，avastexpanseoflevelground； unbroken，savebyonethinlineoftrees，whichscarcelyamountedtoascratchuponthegreatblank；untilitmettheglowingsky，whereinitseemedtodip:minglingwithitsrichcolours，andmellowinginitsdistantblue。Thereitlay，atranquilseaorlakewithoutwater，ifsuchasimilebeadmissible，withthedaygoingdownuponit:afewbirdswheelinghereandthere:andsolitudeandsilencereigningparamountaround。Butthegrasswasnotyethigh；therewerebareblackpatchesontheground；andthefewwildflowersthattheeyecouldsee，werepoorandscanty。 Greatasthepicturewas，itsveryflatnessandextent，whichleftnothingtotheimagination，tameditdownandcrampeditsinterest。 IfeltlittleofthatsenseoffreedomandexhilarationwhichaScottishheathinspires，orevenourEnglishdownsawaken。Itwaslonelyandwild，butoppressiveinitsbarrenmonotony。IfeltthatintraversingthePrairies，Icouldneverabandonmyselftothescene，forgetfulofallelse；asIshoulddoinstinctively，weretheheatherunderneathmyfeet，oraniron-boundcoastbeyond； butshouldoftenglancetowardsthedistantandfrequently-recedinglineofthehorizon，andwishitgainedandpassed。Itisnotascenetobeforgotten，butitisscarcelyone，Ithink(atallevents，asIsawit)，torememberwithmuchpleasure，ortocovetthelooking-onagain，inafter-life。 Weencampednearasolitarylog-house，forthesakeofitswater，anddinedupontheplain。Thebasketscontainedroastfowls，buffalo\'stongue(anexquisitedainty，bytheway)，ham，bread，cheese，andbutter；biscuits，champagne，sherry；lemonsandsugarforpunch；andabundanceofroughice。Themealwasdelicious，andtheentertainerswerethesoulofkindnessandgoodhumour。Ihaveoftenrecalledthatcheerfulpartytomypleasantrecollectionsince，andshallnoteasilyforget，injunketingsnearerhomewithfriendsofolderdate，mybooncompanionsonthePrairie。 ReturningtoLebanonthatnight，welayatthelittleinnatwhichwehadhaltedintheafternoon。InpointofcleanlinessandcomfortitwouldhavesufferedbynocomparisonwithanyEnglishalehouse，ofahomelykind，inEngland。 Risingatfiveo\'clocknextmorning，Itookawalkaboutthevillage:noneofthehouseswerestrollingaboutto-day，butitwasearlyforthemyet，perhaps:andthenamusedmyselfbylounginginakindoffarm-yardbehindthetavern，ofwhichtheleadingfeatureswere，astrangejumbleofroughshedsforstables； arudecolonnade，builtasacoolplaceofsummerresort；adeepwell；agreatearthenmoundforkeepingvegetablesin，inwintertime；andapigeon-house，whoselittleapertureslooked，astheydoinallpigeon-houses，verymuchtoosmallfortheadmissionoftheplumpandswelling-breastedbirdswhowerestruttingaboutit，thoughtheytriedtogetinneversohard。Thatinterestexhausted，Itookasurveyoftheinn\'stwoparlours，whichweredecoratedwithcolouredprintsofWashington，andPresidentMadison，andofawhite-facedyounglady(muchspeckledbytheflies)，whohelduphergoldneck-chainfortheadmirationofthespectator，andinformedalladmiringcomersthatshewas\'JustSeventeen:\'althoughIshouldhavethoughtherolder。Inthebestroomweretwooilportraitsofthekit-catsize，representingthelandlordandhisinfantson；bothlookingasboldaslions，andstaringoutofthecanvaswithanintensitythatwouldhavebeencheapatanyprice。Theywerepainted，Ithink，bytheartistwhohadtoucheduptheBellevilledoorswithredandgold；forIseemedtorecognisehisstyleimmediately。 Afterbreakfast，westartedtoreturnbyadifferentwayfromthatwhichwehadtakenyesterday，andcomingupatteno\'clockwithanencampmentofGermanemigrantscarryingtheirgoodsincarts，whohadmadearousingfirewhichtheywerejustquitting，stoppedtheretorefresh。Andverypleasantthefirewas；for，hotthoughithadbeenyesterday，itwasquitecoldto-day，andthewindblewkeenly。Loominginthedistance，aswerodealong，wasanotheroftheancientIndianburial-places，calledTheMonks\'Mound；inmemoryofabodyoffanaticsoftheorderofLaTrappe，whofoundedadesolateconventthere，manyyearsago，whentherewerenosettlerswithinathousandmiles，andwereallsweptoffbytheperniciousclimate:inwhichlamentablefatality，fewrationalpeoplewillsuppose，perhaps，thatsocietyexperiencedanyveryseveredeprivation。 Thetrackofto-dayhadthesamefeaturesasthetrackofyesterday。Therewastheswamp，thebush，andtheperpetualchorusoffrogs，therankunseemlygrowth，theunwholesomesteamingearth。 Hereandthere，andfrequentlytoo，weencounteredasolitarybroken-downwaggon，fullofsomenewsettler\'sgoods。Itwasapitifulsighttoseeoneofthesevehiclesdeepinthemire；theaxle-treebroken；thewheellyingidlybyitsside；themangonemilesaway，tolookforassistance；thewomanseatedamongtheirwanderinghouseholdgodswithababyatherbreast，apictureofforlorn，dejectedpatience；theteamofoxencrouchingdownmournfullyinthemud，andbreathingforthsuchcloudsofvapourfromtheirmouthsandnostrils，thatallthedampmistandfogaroundseemedtohavecomedirectfromthem。 Induetimewemusteredonceagainbeforethemerchanttailor\'s，andhavingdoneso，crossedovertothecityintheferry-boat: passing，ontheway，aspotcalledBloodyIsland，theduelling- groundofSt。Louis，andsodesignatedinhonourofthelastfatalcombatfoughtthere，whichwaswithpistols，breasttobreast。 Bothcombatantsfelldeadupontheground；andpossiblysomerationalpeoplemaythinkofthem，asofthegloomymadmenontheMonks\'Mound，thattheywerenogreatlosstothecommunity。 CHAPTERXIV-RETURNTOCINCINNATI。ASTAGE-COACHRIDEFROMTHAT CITYTOCOLUMBUS，ANDTHENCETOSANDUSKY。SO，BYLAKEERIE，TOTHE FALLSOFNIAGARA ASIhadadesiretotravelthroughtheinteriorofthestateofOhio，andto\'strikethelakes，\'asthephraseis，atasmalltowncalledSandusky，towhichthatroutewouldconductusonourwaytoNiagara，wehadtoreturnfromSt。Louisbythewaywehadcome，andtoretraceourformertrackasfarasCincinnati。 ThedayonwhichweweretotakeleaveofSt。Louisbeingveryfine；andthesteamboat，whichwastohavestartedIdon\'tknowhowearlyinthemorning，postponing，forthethirdorfourthtime，herdepartureuntiltheafternoon；werodeforwardtoanoldFrenchvillageontheriver，calledproperlyCarondelet，andnicknamedVidePoche，andarrangedthatthepacketshouldcallforusthere。 Theplaceconsistedofafewpoorcottages，andtwoorthreepublic-houses；thestateofwhoselarderscertainlyseemedtojustifytheseconddesignationofthevillage，fortherewasnothingtoeatinanyofthem。Atlength，however，bygoingbacksomehalfamileorso，wefoundasolitaryhousewherehamandcoffeewereprocurable；andtherewetarriedtowaittheadventoftheboat，whichwouldcomeinsightfromthegreenbeforethedoor，alongwayoff。 Itwasaneat，unpretendingvillagetavern，andwetookourrepastinaquaintlittleroomwithabedinit，decoratedwithsomeoldoilpaintings，whichintheirtimehadprobablydonedutyinaCatholicchapelormonastery。Thefarewasverygood，andservedwithgreatcleanliness。Thehousewaskeptbyacharacteristicoldcouple，withwhomwehadalongtalk，andwhowereperhapsaverygoodsampleofthatkindofpeopleintheWest。 Thelandlordwasadry，tough，hard-facedoldfellow(notsoveryoldeither，forhewasbutjustturnedsixty，Ishouldthink)，whohadbeenoutwiththemilitiainthelastwarwithEngland，andhadseenallkindsofservice，-exceptabattle；andhehadbeenverynearseeingthat，headded:verynear。Hehadallhislifebeenrestlessandlocomotive，withanirresistibledesireforchange； andwasstillthesonofhisoldself:forifhehadnothingtokeephimathome，hesaid(slightlyjerkinghishatandhisthumbtowardsthewindowoftheroominwhichtheoldladysat，aswestoodtalkinginfrontofthehouse)，hewouldcleanuphismusket，andbeofftoTexasto-morrowmorning。HewasoneoftheverymanydescendantsofCainpropertothiscontinent，whoseemdestinedfromtheirbirthtoserveaspioneersinthegreathumanarmy:whogladlygoonfromyeartoyearextendingitsoutposts，andleavinghomeafterhomebehindthem；anddieatlast，utterlyregardlessoftheirgravesbeingleftthousandsofmilesbehind，bythewanderinggenerationwhosucceed。 Hiswifewasadomesticated，kind-heartedoldsoul，whohadcomewithhim，\'fromthequeencityoftheworld，\'which，itseemed，wasPhiladelphia；buthadnoloveforthisWesterncountry，andindeedhadlittlereasontobearitany；havingseenherchildren，onebyone，diehereoffever，inthefullprimeandbeautyoftheiryouth。Herheartwassore，shesaid，tothinkofthem；andtotalkonthistheme，eventostrangers，inthatblightedplace，sofarfromheroldhome，easeditsomewhat，andbecameamelancholypleasure。 Theboatappearingtowardsevening，webadeadieutothepooroldladyandhervagrantspouse，andmakingforthenearestlanding- place，weresoononboardTheMessengeragain，inouroldcabin，andsteamingdowntheMississippi。 Ifthecomingupthisriver，slowlymakingheadagainstthestream，beanirksomejourney，theshootingdownitwiththeturbidcurrentisalmostworse；forthentheboat，proceedingattherateoftwelveorfifteenmilesanhour，hastoforceitspassagethroughalabyrinthoffloatinglogs，which，inthedark，itisoftenimpossibletoseebeforehandoravoid。Allthatnight，thebellwasneversilentforfiveminutesatatime；andaftereveryringthevesselreeledagain，sometimesbeneathasingleblow，sometimesbeneathadozendealtinquicksuccession，thelightestofwhichseemedmorethanenoughtobeatinherfrailkeel，asthoughithadbeenpie-crust。Lookingdownuponthefilthyriverafterdark，itseemedtobealivewithmonsters，astheseblackmassesrolleduponthesurface，orcamestartingupagain，headfirst，whentheboat，inploughingherwayamongashoalofsuchobstructions，droveafewamongthemforthemomentunderwater。Sometimestheenginestoppedduringalonginterval，andthenbeforeherandbehind，andgatheringcloseaboutheronallsides，weresomanyoftheseill- favouredobstaclesthatshewasfairlyhemmedin；thecentreofafloatingisland；andwasconstrainedtopauseuntiltheyparted，somewhere，asdarkcloudswilldobeforethewind，andopenedbydegreesachannelout。 Ingoodtimenextmorning，however，wecameagaininsightofthedetestablemorasscalledCairo；andstoppingtheretotakeinwood，layalongsideabarge，whosestartingtimbersscarcelyheldtogether。Itwasmooredtothebank，andonitssidewaspainted\'CoffeeHouse；\'thatbeing，Isuppose，thefloatingparadisetowhichthepeopleflyforshelterwhentheylosetheirhousesforamonthortwobeneaththehideouswatersoftheMississippi。Butlookingsouthwardfromthispoint，wehadthesatisfactionofseeingthatintolerableriverdraggingitsslimylengthanduglyfreightabruptlyofftowardsNewOrleans；andpassingayellowlinewhichstretchedacrossthecurrent，wereagainupontheclearOhio，never，Itrust，toseetheMississippimore，savingintroubleddreamsandnightmares。Leavingitforthecompanyofitssparklingneighbour，waslikethetransitionfrompaintoease，ortheawakeningfromahorriblevisiontocheerfulrealities。 WearrivedatLouisvilleonthefourthnight，andgladlyavailedourselvesofitsexcellenthotel。NextdaywewentonintheBenFranklin，abeautifulmailsteamboat，andreachedCincinnatishortlyaftermidnight。Beingbythistimenearlytiredofsleepinguponshelves，wehadremainedawaketogoashorestraightway；andgropingapassageacrossthedarkdecksofotherboats，andamonglabyrinthsofengine-machineryandleakingcasksofmolasses，wereachedthestreets，knockeduptheporteratthehotelwherewehadstayedbefore，andwere，toourgreatjoy，safelyhousedsoonafterwards。 WerestedbutonedayatCincinnati，andthenresumedourjourneytoSandusky。Asitcomprisedtwovarietiesofstage-coachtravelling，which，withthoseIhavealreadyglancedat，comprehendthemaincharacteristicsofthismodeoftransitinAmerica，Iwilltakethereaderasourfellow-passenger，andpledgemyselftoperformthedistancewithallpossibledespatch。 OurplaceofdestinationinthefirstinstanceisColumbus。ItisdistantaboutahundredandtwentymilesfromCincinnati，butthereisamacadamisedroad(rareblessing!)thewholeway，andtherateoftravellinguponitissixmilesanhour。 Westartateighto\'clockinthemorning，inagreatmail-coach，whosehugecheeksaresoveryruddyandplethoric，thatitappearstobetroubledwithatendencyofbloodtothehead。Dropsicalitcertainlyis，foritwillholdadozenpassengersinside。But，wonderfultoadd，itisverycleanandbright，beingnearlynew； andrattlesthroughthestreetsofCincinnatigaily。 Ourwayliesthroughabeautifulcountry，richlycultivated，andluxuriantinitspromiseofanabundantharvest。SometimeswepassafieldwherethestrongbristlingstalksofIndiancornlooklikeacropofwalking-sticks，andsometimesanenclosurewherethegreenwheatisspringingupamongalabyrinthofstumps；theprimitiveworm-fenceisuniversal，andanuglythingitis；butthefarmsareneatlykept，and，saveforthesedifferences，onemightbetravellingjustnowinKent。 Weoftenstoptowaterataroadsideinn，whichisalwaysdullandsilent。Thecoachmandismountsandfillshisbucket，andholdsittothehorses\'heads。Thereisscarcelyeveranyonetohelphim； thereareseldomanyloungersstandinground；andneveranystable- companywithjokestocrack。Sometimes，whenwehavechangedourteam，thereisadifficultyinstartingagain，arisingoutoftheprevalentmodeofbreakingayounghorse:whichistocatchhim，harnesshimagainsthiswill，andputhiminastage-coachwithoutfurthernotice:butwegetonsomehoworother，afteragreatmanykicksandaviolentstruggle；andjogonasbeforeagain。 Occasionally，whenwestoptochange，sometwoorthreehalf- drunkenloaferswillcomeloiteringoutwiththeirhandsintheirpockets，orwillbeseenkickingtheirheelsinrocking-chairs，orloungingonthewindow-sill，orsittingonarailwithinthecolonnade:theyhavenotoftenanythingtosaythough，eithertousortoeachother，butsitthereidlystaringatthecoachandhorses。Thelandlordoftheinnisusuallyamongthem，andseems，ofalltheparty，tobetheleastconnectedwiththebusinessofthehouse。Indeedheiswithreferencetothetavern，whatthedriverisinrelationtothecoachandpassengers:whateverhappensinhissphereofaction，heisquiteindifferent，andperfectlyeasyinhismind。 Thefrequentchangeofcoachmenworksnochangeorvarietyinthecoachman\'scharacter。Heisalwaysdirty，sullen，andtaciturn。 Ifhebecapableofsmartnessofanykind，moralorphysical，hehasafacultyofconcealingitwhichistrulymarvellous。Heneverspeakstoyouasyousitbesidehimonthebox，andifyouspeaktohim，heanswers(ifatall)inmonosyllables。Hepointsoutnothingontheroad，andseldomlooksatanything:being，toallappearance，thoroughlywearyofitandofexistencegenerally。Astodoingthehonoursofhiscoach，hisbusiness，asIhavesaid，iswiththehorses。Thecoachfollowsbecauseitisattachedtothemandgoesonwheels:notbecauseyouareinit。Sometimes，towardstheendofalongstage，hesuddenlybreaksoutintoadiscordantfragmentofanelectionsong，buthisfaceneversingsalongwithhim:itisonlyhisvoice，andnotoftenthat。 Healwayschewsandalwaysspits，andneverencumbershimselfwithapocket-handkerchief。Theconsequencestotheboxpassenger，especiallywhenthewindblowstowardshim，arenotagreeable。 Wheneverthecoachstops，andyoucanhearthevoicesoftheinsidepassengers；orwheneveranybystanderaddressesthem，oranyoneamongthem；ortheyaddresseachother；youwillhearonephraserepeatedoverandoverandoveragaintothemostextraordinaryextent。Itisanordinaryandunpromisingphraseenough，beingneithermorenorlessthan\'Yes，sir；\'butitisadaptedtoeveryvarietyofcircumstance，andfillsupeverypauseintheconversation。Thus:-