第12章

Thetimeisoneo\'clockatnoon。Thescene，aplacewherewearetostayanddine，onthisjourney。Thecoachdrivesuptothedoorofaninn。Thedayiswarm，andthereareseveralidlerslingeringaboutthetavern，andwaitingforthepublicdinner。Amongthem，isastoutgentlemaninabrownhat，swinginghimselftoandfroinarocking-chaironthepavement。 Asthecoachstops，agentlemaninastrawhatlooksoutofthewindow: STRAWHAT。(Tothestoutgentlemanintherocking-chair。)I reckonthat\'sJudgeJefferson，an\'tit？ BROWNHAT。(Stillswinging；speakingveryslowly；andwithoutanyemotionwhatever。)Yes，sir。 STRAWHAT。Warmweather，Judge。 BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。 STRAWHAT。Therewasasnapofcold，lastweek。 BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。 STRAWHAT。Yes，sir。 Apause。Theylookateachother，veryseriously。 STRAWHAT。Icalculateyou\'llhavegotthroughthatcaseofthecorporation，Judge，bythistime，now？ BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。 STRAWHAT。Howdidtheverdictgo，sir？ BROWNHAT。Forthedefendant，sir。 STRAWHAT。(Interrogatively。)Yes，sir？ BROWNHAT。(Affirmatively。)Yes，sir。 BOTH。(Musingly，aseachgazesdownthestreet。)Yes，sir。 Anotherpause。Theylookateachotheragain，stillmoreseriouslythanbefore。 BROWNHAT。Thiscoachisratherbehinditstimeto-day，Iguess。 STRAWHAT。(Doubtingly。)Yes，sir。 BROWNHAT。(Lookingathiswatch。)Yes，sir；nighupontwohours。 STRAWHAT。(Raisinghiseyebrowsinverygreatsurprise。)Yes，sir! BROWNHAT。(Decisively，asheputsuphiswatch。)Yes，sir。 ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。(Amongthemselves。)Yes，sir。 COACHMAN。(Inaverysurlytone。)Noitan\'t。 STRAWHAT。(Tothecoachman。)Well，Idon\'tknow，sir。Wewereaprettytalltimecomingthatlastfifteenmile。That\'safact。 Thecoachmanmakingnoreply，andplainlydecliningtoenterintoanycontroversyonasubjectsofarremovedfromhissympathiesandfeelings，anotherpassengersays，\'Yes，sir；\'andthegentlemaninthestrawhatinacknowledgmentofhiscourtesy，says\'Yes，sir，\' tohim，inreturn。Thestrawhattheninquiresofthebrownhat，whetherthatcoachinwhichhe(thestrawhat)thensits，isnotanewone？Towhichthebrownhatagainmakesanswer，\'Yes，sir。\' STRAWHAT。Ithoughtso。Prettyloudsmellofvarnish，sir？ BROWNHAT。Yes，sir。 ALLTHEOTHERINSIDEPASSENGERS。Yes，sir。 BROWNHAT。(Tothecompanyingeneral。)Yes，sir。 Theconversationalpowersofthecompanyhavingbeenbythistimeprettyheavilytaxed，thestrawhatopensthedoorandgetsout； andalltherestalightalso。Wedinesoonafterwardswiththeboardersinthehouse，andhavenothingtodrinkbutteaandcoffee。Astheyarebothverybadandthewaterisworse，Iaskforbrandy；butitisaTemperanceHotel，andspiritsarenottobehadforloveormoney。ThispreposterousforcingofunpleasantdrinksdownthereluctantthroatsoftravellersisnotatalluncommoninAmerica，butIneverdiscoveredthatthescruplesofsuchwincinglandlordsinducedthemtopreserveanyunusuallynicebalancebetweenthequalityoftheirfare，andtheirscaleofcharges:onthecontrary，Irathersuspectedthemofdiminishingtheoneandexaltingtheother，bywayofrecompenseforthelossoftheirprofitonthesaleofspirituousliquors。Afterall，perhaps，theplainestcourseforpersonsofsuchtenderconsciences，wouldbe，atotalabstinencefromtavern-keeping。 Dinnerover，wegetintoanothervehiclewhichisreadyatthedoor(forthecoachhasbeenchangedintheinterval)，andresumeourjourney；whichcontinuesthroughthesamekindofcountryuntilevening，whenwecometothetownwherewearetostopforteaandsupper；andhavingdeliveredthemailbagsatthePost-office，ridethroughtheusualwidestreet，linedwiththeusualstoresandhouses(thedrapersalwayshavinghungupattheirdoor，bywayofsign，apieceofbrightredcloth)，tothehotelwherethismealisprepared。Therebeingmanyboardershere，wesitdown，alargeparty，andaverymelancholyoneasusual。Butthereisabuxomhostessattheheadofthetable，andopposite，asimpleWelshschoolmasterwithhiswifeandchild；whocamehere，onaspeculationofgreaterpromisethanperformance，toteachtheclassics:andtheyaresufficientsubjectsofinterestuntilthemealisover，andanothercoachisready。Initwegoononcemore，lightedbyabrightmoon，untilmidnight；whenwestoptochangethecoachagain，andremainforhalfanhourorsoinamiserableroom，withablurredlithographofWashingtonoverthesmokyfire-place，andamightyjugofcoldwateronthetable:towhichrefreshmentthemoodypassengersdosoapplythemselvesthattheywouldseemtobe，oneandall，keenpatientsofDr。Sangrado。 Amongthemisaverylittleboy，whochewstobaccolikeaverybigone；andadroninggentleman，whotalksarithmeticallyandstatisticallyonallsubjects，frompoetrydownwards；andwhoalwaysspeaksinthesamekey，withexactlythesameemphasis，andwithverygravedeliberation。Hecameoutsidejustnow，andtoldmehowthattheuncleofacertainyoungladywhohadbeenspiritedawayandmarriedbyacertaincaptain，livedintheseparts；andhowthisunclewassovaliantandferociousthatheshouldn\'twonderifheweretofollowthesaidcaptaintoEngland，\'andshoothimdowninthestreetwhereverhefoundhim；\'inthefeasibilityofwhichstrongmeasureI，beingforthemomentratherpronetocontradiction，fromfeelinghalfasleepandverytired，declinedtoacquiesce:assuringhimthatiftheuncledidresorttoit，orgratifiedanyotherlittlewhimofthelikenature，hewouldfindhimselfonemorningprematurelythrottledattheOldBailey:andthathewoulddowelltomakehiswillbeforehewent，ashewouldcertainlywantitbeforehehadbeeninBritainverylong。 Onwego，allnight，andby-and-bythedaybeginstobreak，andpresentlythefirstcheerfulraysofthewarmsuncomeslantingonusbrightly。Itshedsitslightuponamiserablewasteofsoddengrass，anddulltrees，andsqualidhuts，whoseaspectisforlornandgrievousinthelastdegree。Averydesertinthewood，whosegrowthofgreenisdankandnoxiouslikethatuponthetopofstandingwater:wherepoisonousfungusgrowsintherarefootprintontheoozyground，andsproutslikewitches\'coral，fromthecrevicesinthecabinwallandfloor；itisahideousthingtolieupontheverythresholdofacity。Butitwaspurchasedyearsago，andastheownercannotbediscovered，theStatehasbeenunabletoreclaimit。Sothereitremains，inthemidstofcultivationandimprovement，likegroundaccursed，andmadeobsceneandrankbysomegreatcrime。 WereachedColumbusshortlybeforeseveno\'clock，andstayedthere，torefresh，thatdayandnight:havingexcellentapartmentsinaverylargeunfinishedhotelcalledtheNeillHouse，whichwererichlyfittedwiththepolishedwoodoftheblackwalnut，andopenedonahandsomeporticoandstoneverandah，likeroomsinsomeItalianmansion。Thetowniscleanandpretty，andofcourseis\'goingtobe\'muchlarger。ItistheseatoftheStatelegislatureofOhio，andlaysclaim，inconsequence，tosomeconsiderationandimportance。 Therebeingnostage-coachnextday，upontheroadwewishedtotake，Ihired\'anextra，\'atareasonablechargetocarryustoTiffin；asmalltownfromwhencethereisarailroadtoSandusky。 Thisextrawasanordinaryfour-horsestage-coach，suchasIhavedescribed，changinghorsesanddrivers，asthestage-coachwould，butwasexclusivelyourownforthejourney。Toensureourhavinghorsesattheproperstations，andbeingincommodedbynostrangers，theproprietorssentanagentonthebox，whowastoaccompanyusthewholewaythrough；andthusattended，andbearingwithus，besides，ahamperfullofsavourycoldmeats，andfruit，andwine，westartedoffagaininhighspirits，athalf-pastsixo\'clocknextmorning，verymuchdelightedtobebyourselves，anddisposedtoenjoyeventheroughestjourney。 Itwaswellforus，thatwewereinthishumour，fortheroadwewentoverthatday，wascertainlyenoughtohaveshakentempersthatwerenotresolutelyatSetFair，downtosomeinchesbelowStormy。Atonetimewewereallflungtogetherinaheapatthebottomofthecoach，andatanotherwewerecrushingourheadsagainsttheroof。Now，onesidewasdowndeepinthemire，andwewereholdingontotheother。Now，thecoachwaslyingonthetailsofthetwowheelers；andnowitwasrearingupintheair，inafranticstate，withallfourhorsesstandingonthetopofaninsurmountableeminence，lookingcoollybackatit，asthoughtheywouldsay\'Unharnessus。Itcan\'tbedone。\'Thedriversontheseroads，whocertainlygetoverthegroundinamannerwhichisquitemiraculous，sotwistandturntheteamaboutinforcingapassage，corkscrewfashion，throughthebogsandswamps，thatitwasquiteacommoncircumstanceonlookingoutofthewindow，toseethecoachmanwiththeendsofapairofreinsinhishands，apparentlydrivingnothing，orplayingathorses，andtheleadersstaringatoneunexpectedlyfromthebackofthecoach，asiftheyhadsomeideaofgettingupbehind。Agreatportionofthewaywasoverwhatiscalledacorduroyroad，whichismadebythrowingtrunksoftreesintoamarsh，andleavingthemtosettlethere。Theveryslightestofthejoltswithwhichtheponderouscarriagefellfromlogtolog，wasenough，itseemed，tohavedislocatedallthebonesinthehumanbody。Itwouldbeimpossibletoexperienceasimilarsetofsensations，inanyothercircumstances，unlessperhapsinattemptingtogouptothetopofSt。Paul\'sinanomnibus。Never，neveronce，thatday，wasthecoachinanyposition，attitude，orkindofmotiontowhichweareaccustomedincoaches。Neverdiditmakethesmallestapproachtoone\'sexperienceoftheproceedingsofanysortofvehiclethatgoesonwheels。 Still，itwasafineday，andthetemperaturewasdelicious，andthoughwehadleftSummerbehindusinthewest，andwerefastleavingSpring，weweremovingtowardsNiagaraandhome。Wealightedinapleasantwoodtowardsthemiddleoftheday，dinedonafallentree，andleavingourbestfragmentswithacottager，andourworstwiththepigs(whoswarminthispartofthecountrylikegrainsofsandonthesea-shore，tothegreatcomfortofourcommissariatinCanada)，wewentforwardagain，gaily。 Asnightcameon，thetrackgrewnarrowerandnarrower，untilatlastitsolostitselfamongthetrees，thatthedriverseemedtofindhiswaybyinstinct。Wehadthecomfortofknowing，atleast，thattherewasnodangerofhisfallingasleep，foreverynowandthenawheelwouldstrikeagainstanunseenstumpwithsuchajerk，thathewasfaintoholdonprettytightandprettyquick，tokeephimselfuponthebox。Norwasthereanyreasontodreadtheleastdangerfromfuriousdriving，inasmuchasoverthatbrokengroundthehorseshadenoughtodotowalk；astoshying，therewasnoroomforthat；andaherdofwildelephantscouldnothaverunawayinsuchawood，withsuchacoachattheirheels。Sowestumbledalong，quitesatisfied。 ThesestumpsoftreesareacuriousfeatureinAmericantravelling。 Thevaryingillusionstheypresenttotheunaccustomedeyeasitgrowsdark，arequiteastonishingintheirnumberandreality。 Now，thereisaGrecianurnerectedinthecentreofalonelyfield；nowthereisawomanweepingatatomb；nowaverycommonplaceoldgentlemaninawhitewaistcoat，withathumbthrustintoeacharm-holeofhiscoat；nowastudentporingonabook；nowacrouchingnegro；now，ahorse，adog，acannon，anarmedman；ahunch-backthrowingoffhiscloakandsteppingforthintothelight。Theywereoftenasentertainingtomeassomanyglassesinamagiclantern，andnevertooktheirshapesatmybidding，butseemedtoforcethemselvesuponme，whetherIwouldorno；andstrangetosay，Isometimesrecognisedinthemcounterpartsoffiguresoncefamiliartomeinpicturesattachedtochildishbooks，forgottenlongago。 Itsoonbecametoodark，however，evenforthisamusement，andthetreesweresoclosetogetherthattheirdrybranchesrattledagainstthecoachoneitherside，andobligedusalltokeepourheadswithin。Itlightenedtoo，forthreewholehours；eachflashbeingverybright，andblue，andlong；andasthevividstreakscamedartinginamongthecrowdedbranches，andthethunderrolledgloomilyabovethetreetops，onecouldscarcelyhelpthinkingthattherewerebetterneighbourhoodsatsuchatimethanthickwoodsafforded。 Atlength，betweentenandeleveno\'clockatnight，afewfeeblelightsappearedinthedistance，andUpperSandusky，anIndianvillage，whereweweretostaytillmorning，laybeforeus。 TheyweregonetobedatthelogInn，whichwastheonlyhouseofentertainmentintheplace，butsoonansweredtoourknocking，andgotsometeaforusinasortofkitchenorcommonroom，tapestriedwitholdnewspapers，pastedagainstthewall。Thebed-chambertowhichmywifeandIwereshown，wasalarge，low，ghostlyroom； withaquantityofwitheredbranchesonthehearth，andtwodoorswithoutanyfastening，oppositetoeachother，bothopeningontheblacknightandwildcountry，andsocontrived，thatoneofthemalwaysblewtheotheropen:anoveltyindomesticarchitecture，whichIdonotremembertohaveseenbefore，andwhichIwassomewhatdisconcertedtohaveforcedonmyattentionaftergettingintobed，asIhadaconsiderablesumingoldforourtravellingexpenses，inmydressing-case。Someoftheluggage，however，piledagainstthepanels，soonsettledthisdifficulty，andmysleepwouldnothavebeenverymuchaffectedthatnight，Ibelieve，thoughithadfailedtodoso。 MyBostonfriendclimbeduptobed，somewhereintheroof，whereanotherguestwasalreadysnoringhugely。Butbeingbittenbeyondhispowerofendurance，heturnedoutagain，andfledforsheltertothecoach，whichwasairingitselfinfrontofthehouse。Thiswasnotaverypoliticstep，asitturnedout；forthepigsscentinghim，andlookinguponthecoachasakindofpiewithsomemannerofmeatinside，gruntedrounditsohideously，thathewasafraidtocomeoutagain，andlaythereshivering，tillmorning。 Norwasitpossibletowarmhim，whenhedidcomeout，bymeansofaglassofbrandy:forinIndianvillages，thelegislature，withaverygoodandwiseintention，forbidsthesaleofspiritsbytavernkeepers。Theprecaution，however，isquiteinefficacious，fortheIndiansneverfailtoprocureliquorofaworsekind，atadearerprice，fromtravellingpedlars。 ItisasettlementoftheWyandotIndianswhoinhabitthisplace。 Amongthecompanyatbreakfastwasamildoldgentleman，whohadbeenformanyyearsemployedbytheUnitedStatesGovernmentinconductingnegotiationswiththeIndians，andwhohadjustconcludedatreatywiththesepeoplebywhichtheyboundthemselves，inconsiderationofacertainannualsum，toremovenextyeartosomelandprovidedforthem，westoftheMississippi，andalittlewaybeyondSt。Louis。Hegavemeamovingaccountoftheirstrongattachmenttothefamiliarscenesoftheirinfancy，andinparticulartotheburial-placesoftheirkindred；andoftheirgreatreluctancetoleavethem。Hehadwitnessedmanysuchremovals，andalwayswithpain，thoughheknewthattheydepartedfortheirowngood。Thequestionwhetherthistribeshouldgoorstay，hadbeendiscussedamongthemadayortwobefore，inahuterectedforthepurpose，thelogsofwhichstilllayuponthegroundbeforetheinn。Whenthespeakingwasdone，theayesandnoeswererangedonoppositesides，andeverymaleadultvotedinhisturn。Themomenttheresultwasknown，theminority(alargeone)cheerfullyyieldedtotherest，andwithdrewallkindofopposition。 WemetsomeofthesepoorIndiansafterwards，ridingonshaggyponies。Theyweresolikethemeanersortofgipsies，thatifI couldhaveseenanyoftheminEngland，Ishouldhaveconcluded，asamatterofcourse，thattheybelongedtothatwanderingandrestlesspeople。 Leavingthistowndirectlyafterbreakfast，wepushedforwardagain，overaratherworseroadthanyesterday，ifpossible，andarrivedaboutnoonatTiffin，wherewepartedwiththeextra。Attwoo\'clockwetooktherailroad；thetravellingonwhichwasveryslow，itsconstructionbeingindifferent，andthegroundwetandmarshy；andarrivedatSanduskyintimetodinethatevening。WeputupatacomfortablelittlehotelonthebrinkofLakeErie，laytherethatnight，andhadnochoicebuttowaittherenextday，untilasteamboatboundforBuffaloappeared。Thetown，whichwassluggishanduninterestingenough，wassomethinglikethebackofanEnglishwatering-place，outoftheseason。 Ourhost，whowasveryattentiveandanxioustomakeuscomfortable，wasahandsomemiddle-agedman，whohadcometothistownfromNewEngland，inwhichpartofthecountryhewas\'raised。\'WhenIsaythatheconstantlywalkedinandoutoftheroomwithhishaton；andstoppedtoconverseinthesamefree-and- easystate；andlaydownonoursofa，andpulledhisnewspaperoutofhispocket，andreaditathisease；Imerelymentionthesetraitsascharacteristicofthecountry:notatallasbeingmatterofcomplaint，orashavingbeendisagreeabletome。I shouldundoubtedlybeoffendedbysuchproceedingsathome，becausetheretheyarenotthecustom，andwheretheyarenot，theywouldbeimpertinencies；butinAmerica，theonlydesireofagood- naturedfellowofthiskind，istotreathisguestshospitablyandwell；andIhadnomoreright，andIcantrulysaynomoredisposition，tomeasurehisconductbyourEnglishruleandstandard，thanIhadtoquarrelwithhimfornotbeingoftheexactstaturewhichwouldqualifyhimforadmissionintotheQueen\'sgrenadierguards。AslittleinclinationhadItofindfaultwithafunnyoldladywhowasanupperdomesticinthisestablishment，andwho，whenshecametowaituponusatanymeal，satherselfdowncomfortablyinthemostconvenientchair，andproducingalargepintopickherteethwith，remainedperformingthatceremony，andsteadfastlyregardingusmeanwhilewithmuchgravityandcomposure(nowandthenpressingustoeatalittlemore)，untilitwastimetoclearaway。Itwasenoughforus，thatwhateverwewisheddonewasdonewithgreatcivilityandreadiness，andadesiretooblige，notonlyhere，buteverywhereelse；andthatallourwantswere，ingeneral，zealouslyanticipated。 Weweretakinganearlydinneratthishouse，onthedayafterourarrival，whichwasSunday，whenasteamboatcameinsight，andpresentlytouchedatthewharf。AssheprovedtobeonherwaytoBuffalo，wehurriedonboardwithallspeed，andsoonleftSanduskyfarbehindus。 Shewasalargevesseloffivehundredtons，andhandsomelyfittedup，thoughwithhigh-pressureengines；whichalwaysconveyedthatkindoffeelingtome，whichIshouldbelikelytoexperience，I think，ifIhadlodgingsonthefirst-floorofapowder-mill。Shewasladenwithflour，somecasksofwhichcommoditywerestoreduponthedeck。Thecaptaincominguptohavealittleconversation，andtointroduceafriend，seatedhimselfastrideofoneofthesebarrels，likeaBacchusofprivatelife；andpullingagreatclasp-knifeoutofhispocket，beganto\'whittle\'itashetalked，byparingthinslicesofftheedges。Andhewhittledwithsuchindustryandheartygoodwill，thatbutforhisbeingcalledawayverysoon，itmusthavedisappearedbodily，andleftnothinginitsplacebutgristandshavings。 Aftercallingatoneortwoflatplaces，withlowdamsstretchingoutintothelake，whereonwerestumpylighthouses，likewindmillswithoutsails，thewholelookinglikeaDutchvignette，wecameatmidnighttoCleveland，wherewelayallnight，anduntilnineo\'clocknextmorning。 Ientertainedquiteacuriosityinreferencetothisplace，fromhavingseenatSanduskyaspecimenofitsliteratureintheshapeofanewspaper，whichwasverystrongindeeduponthesubjectofLordAshburton\'srecentarrivalatWashington，toadjustthepointsindisputebetweentheUnitedStatesGovernmentandGreatBritain: informingitsreadersthatasAmericahad\'whipped\'Englandinherinfancy，andwhippedheragaininheryouth，soitwasclearlynecessarythatshemustwhipheronceagaininhermaturity；andpledgingitscredittoallTrueAmericans，thatifMr。Websterdidhisdutyintheapproachingnegotiations，andsenttheEnglishLordhomeagainindoublequicktime，theyshould，withintwoyears，sing\'YankeeDoodleinHydePark，andHailColumbiainthescarletcourtsofWestminster!\'Ifounditaprettytown，andhadthesatisfactionofbeholdingtheoutsideoftheofficeofthejournalfromwhichIhavejustquoted。Ididnotenjoythedelightofseeingthewitwhoinditedtheparagraphinquestion，butIhavenodoubtheisaprodigiousmaninhisway，andheldinhighreputebyaselectcircle。 Therewasagentlemanonboard，towhom，asIunintentionallylearnedthroughthethinpartitionwhichdividedourstate-roomfromthecabininwhichheandhiswifeconversedtogether，Iwasunwittinglytheoccasionofverygreatuneasiness。Idon\'tknowwhyorwherefore，butIappearedtoruninhismindperpetually，andtodissatisfyhimverymuch。FirstofallIheardhimsay: andthemostludicrouspartofthebusinesswas，thathesaiditinmyveryear，andcouldnothavecommunicatedmoredirectlywithme，ifhehadleaneduponmyshoulder，andwhisperedme:\'Bozisonboardstill，mydear。\'Afteraconsiderablepause，headded，complainingly，\'Bozkeepshimselfveryclose；\'whichwastrueenough，forIwasnotverywell，andwaslyingdown，withabook。 Ithoughthehaddonewithmeafterthis，butIwasdeceived；foralongintervalhavingelapsed，duringwhichIimaginehimtohavebeenturningrestlesslyfromsidetoside，andtryingtogotosleep；hebrokeoutagain，with\'IsupposeTHATBozwillbewritingabookby-and-by，andputtingallournamesinit!\'atwhichimaginaryconsequenceofbeingonboardaboatwithBoz，hegroaned，andbecamesilent。 WecalledatthetownofErie，ateighto\'clockthatnight，andlaythereanhour。Betweenfiveandsixnextmorning，wearrivedatBuffalo，wherewebreakfasted；andbeingtooneartheGreatFallstowaitpatientlyanywhereelse，wesetoffbythetrain，thesamemorningatnineo\'clock，toNiagara。 Itwasamiserableday；chillyandraw；adampmistfalling；andthetreesinthatnorthernregionquitebareandwintry。Wheneverthetrainhalted，Ilistenedfortheroar；andwasconstantlystrainingmyeyesinthedirectionwhereIknewtheFallsmustbe，fromseeingtheriverrollingontowardsthem；everymomentexpectingtobeholdthespray。Withinafewminutesofourstopping，notbefore，Isawtwogreatwhitecloudsrisingupslowlyandmajesticallyfromthedepthsoftheearth。Thatwasall。Atlengthwealighted:andthenforthefirsttime，Iheardthemightyrushofwater，andfeltthegroundtrembleunderneathmyfeet。 Thebankisverysteep，andwasslipperywithrain，andhalf-meltedice。IhardlyknowhowIgotdown，butIwassoonatthebottom，andclimbing，withtwoEnglishofficerswhowerecrossingandhadjoinedme，oversomebrokenrocks，deafenedbythenoise，half- blindedbythespray，andwettotheskin。WewereatthefootoftheAmericanFall。Icouldseeanimmensetorrentofwatertearingheadlongdownfromsomegreatheight，buthadnoideaofshape，orsituation，oranythingbutvagueimmensity。 Whenwewereseatedinthelittleferry-boat，andwerecrossingtheswollenriverimmediatelybeforebothcataracts，Ibegantofeelwhatitwas:butIwasinamannerstunned，andunabletocomprehendthevastnessofthescene。ItwasnotuntilIcameonTableRock，andlooked-GreatHeaven，onwhatafallofbright- greenwater!-thatitcameuponmeinitsfullmightandmajesty。 Then，whenIfelthowneartomyCreatorIwasstanding，thefirsteffect，andtheenduringone-instantandlasting-ofthetremendousspectacle，wasPeace。PeaceofMind，tranquillity，calmrecollectionsoftheDead，greatthoughtsofEternalRestandHappiness:nothingofgloomorterror。Niagarawasatoncestampeduponmyheart，anImageofBeauty；toremainthere，changelessandindelible，untilitspulsesceasetobeat，forever。 Oh，howthestrifeandtroubleofdailyliferecededfrommyview，andlessenedinthedistance，duringthetenmemorabledayswepassedonthatEnchantedGround!Whatvoicesspokefromoutthethunderingwater；whatfaces，fadedfromtheearth，lookedoutuponmefromitsgleamingdepths；whatHeavenlypromiseglistenedinthoseangels\'tears，thedropsofmanyhues，thatshoweredaround，andtwinedthemselvesaboutthegorgeousarcheswhichthechangingrainbowsmade! IneverstirredinallthattimefromtheCanadianside，whitherI hadgoneatfirst。Inevercrossedtheriveragain；forIknewtherewerepeopleontheothershore，andinsuchaplaceitisnaturaltoshunstrangecompany。Towandertoandfroallday，andseethecataractsfromallpointsofview；tostandupontheedgeofthegreatHorse-ShoeFall，markingthehurriedwatergatheringstrengthasitapproachedtheverge，yetseeming，too，topausebeforeitshotintothegulfbelow；togazefromtheriver\'slevelupatthetorrentasitcamestreamingdown；toclimbtheneighbouringheightsandwatchitthroughthetrees，andseethewreathingwaterintherapidshurryingontotakeitsfearfulplunge；tolingerintheshadowofthesolemnrocksthreemilesbelow；watchingtheriveras，stirredbynovisiblecause，itheavedandeddiedandawoketheechoes，beingtroubledyet，fardownbeneaththesurface，byitsgiantleap；tohaveNiagarabeforeme，lightedbythesunandbythemoon，redintheday\'sdecline，andgreyaseveningslowlyfelluponit；tolookuponiteveryday，andwakeupinthenightandhearitsceaselessvoice:thiswasenough。 Ithinkineveryquietseasonnow，stilldothosewatersrollandleap，androarandtumble，alldaylong；stillaretherainbowsspanningthem，ahundredfeetbelow。Still，whenthesunisonthem，dotheyshineandglowlikemoltengold。Still，whenthedayisgloomy，dotheyfalllikesnow，orseemtocrumbleawaylikethefrontofagreatchalkcliff，orrolldowntherocklikedensewhitesmoke。Butalwaysdoesthemightystreamappeartodieasitcomesdown，andalwaysfromitsunfathomablegravearisesthattremendousghostofsprayandmistwhichisneverlaid:whichhashauntedthisplacewiththesamedreadsolemnitysinceDarknessbroodedonthedeep，andthatfirstfloodbeforetheDeluge-Light-camerushingonCreationatthewordofGod。 CHAPTERXV-INCANADA；TORONTO；KINGSTON；MONTREAL；QUEBEC；ST。 JOHN\'S。INTHEUNITEDSTATESAGAIN；LEBANON；THESHAKERVILLAGE； WESTPOINT Iwishtoabstainfrominstitutinganycomparison，ordrawinganyparallelwhatever，betweenthesocialfeaturesoftheUnitedStatesandthoseoftheBritishPossessionsinCanada。Forthisreason，I shallconfinemyselftoaverybriefaccountofourjourneyingsinthelatterterritory。 ButbeforeIleaveNiagara，ImustadverttoonedisgustingcircumstancewhichcanhardlyhaveescapedtheobservationofanydecenttravellerwhohasvisitedtheFalls。 OnTableRock，thereisacottagebelongingtoaGuide，wherelittlerelicsoftheplacearesold，andwherevisitorsregistertheirnamesinabookkeptforthepurpose。Onthewalloftheroominwhichagreatmanyofthesevolumesarepreserved，thefollowingrequestisposted:\'Visitorswillpleasenotcopynorextracttheremarksandpoeticaleffusionsfromtheregistersandalbumskepthere。\' Butforthisintimation，Ishouldhaveletthemlieuponthetablesonwhichtheywerestrewnwithcarefulnegligence，likebooksinadrawing-room:beingquitesatisfiedwiththestupendoussillinessofcertainstanzaswithananti-climaxattheendofeach，whichwereframedandhunguponthewall。Curious，however，afterreadingthisannouncement，toseewhatkindofmorselsweresocarefullypreserved，Iturnedafewleaves，andfoundthemscrawledalloverwiththevilestandthefilthiestribaldrythateverhumanhogsdelightedin。 Itishumiliatingenoughtoknowthatthereareamongmenbrutessoobsceneandworthless，thattheycandelightinlayingtheirmiserableprofanationsupontheverystepsofNature\'sgreatestaltar。Butthattheseshouldbehoardedupforthedelightoftheirfellow-swine，andkeptinapublicplacewhereanyeyesmayseethem，isadisgracetotheEnglishlanguageinwhichtheyarewritten(thoughIhopefewoftheseentrieshavebeenmadebyEnglishmen)，andareproachtotheEnglishside，onwhichtheyarepreserved。 ThequartersofoursoldiersatNiagara，arefinelyandairilysituated。SomeofthemarelargedetachedhousesontheplainabovetheFalls，whichwereoriginallydesignedforhotels；andintheeveningtime，whenthewomenandchildrenwereleaningoverthebalconieswatchingthemenastheyplayedatballandothergamesuponthegrassbeforethedoor，theyoftenpresentedalittlepictureofcheerfulnessandanimationwhichmadeitquiteapleasuretopassthatway。 AtanygarrisonedpointwherethelineofdemarcationbetweenonecountryandanotherissoverynarrowasatNiagara，desertionfromtherankscanscarcelyfailtobeoffrequentoccurrence:anditmaybereasonablysupposedthatwhenthesoldiersentertainthewildestandmaddesthopesofthefortuneandindependencethatawaitthemontheotherside，theimpulsetoplaytraitor，whichsuchaplacesuggeststodishonestminds，isnotweakened。Butitveryrarelyhappensthatthemenwhododesert，arehappyorcontentedafterwards；andmanyinstanceshavebeenknowninwhichtheyhaveconfessedtheirgrievousdisappointment，andtheirearnestdesiretoreturntotheiroldserviceiftheycouldbutbeassuredofpardon，orlenienttreatment。Manyoftheircomrades，notwithstanding，dothelike，fromtimetotime；andinstancesoflossoflifeintheefforttocrosstheriverwiththisobject，arefarfrombeinguncommon。Severalmenweredrownedintheattempttoswimacross，notlongago；andone，whohadthemadnesstotrusthimselfuponatableasaraft，wassweptdowntothewhirlpool，wherehismangledbodyeddiedroundandroundsomedays。 IaminclinedtothinkthatthenoiseoftheFallsisverymuchexaggerated；andthiswillappearthemoreprobablewhenthedepthofthegreatbasininwhichthewaterisreceived，istakenintoaccount。Atnotimeduringourstaythere，wasthewindatallhighorboisterous，butweneverheardthem，threemilesoff，evenattheveryquiettimeofsunset，thoughweoftentried。 Queenston，atwhichplacethesteamboatsstartforToronto(orI shouldrathersayatwhichplacetheycall，fortheirwharfisatLewiston，ontheoppositeshore)，issituatedinadeliciousvalley，throughwhichtheNiagarariver，incolouraverydeepgreen，pursuesitscourse。Itisapproachedbyaroadthattakesitswindingwayamongtheheightsbywhichthetownissheltered； andseenfromthispointisextremelybeautifulandpicturesque。 OnthemostconspicuousoftheseheightsstoodamonumenterectedbytheProvincialLegislatureinmemoryofGeneralBrock，whowasslaininabattlewiththeAmericanforces，afterhavingwonthevictory。Somevagabond，supposedtobeafellowofthenameofLett，whoisnow，orwholatelywas，inprisonasafelon，blewupthismonumenttwoyearsago，anditisnowamelancholyruin，withalongfragmentofironrailinghangingdejectedlyfromitstop，andwavingtoandfrolikeawildivybranchorbrokenvinestem。 Itisofmuchhigherimportancethanitmayseem，thatthisstatueshouldberepairedatthepubliccost，asitoughttohavebeenlongago。Firstly，becauseitisbeneaththedignityofEnglandtoallowamemorialraisedinhonourofoneofherdefenders，toremaininthiscondition，ontheveryspotwherehedied。 Secondly，becausethesightofitinitspresentstate，andtherecollectionoftheunpunishedoutragewhichbroughtittothispass，isnotverylikelytosoothedownborderfeelingsamongEnglishsubjectshere，orcomposetheirborderquarrelsanddislikes。 Iwasstandingonthewharfatthisplace，watchingthepassengersembarkinginasteamboatwhichprecededthatwhosecomingweawaited，andparticipatingintheanxietywithwhichasergeant\'swifewascollectingherfewgoodstogether-keepingonedistractedeyehardupontheporters，whowerehurryingthemonboard，andtheotheronahooplesswashing-tubforwhich，asbeingthemostutterlyworthlessofallhermovables，sheseemedtoentertainparticularaffection-whenthreeorfoursoldierswitharecruitcameupandwentonboard。 Therecruitwasalikelyyoungfellowenough，stronglybuiltandwellmade，butbynomeanssober:indeedhehadalltheairofamanwhohadbeenmoreorlessdrunkforsomedays。Hecarriedasmallbundleoverhisshoulder，slungattheendofawalking- stick，andhadashortpipeinhismouth。Hewasasdustyanddirtyasrecruitsusuallyare，andhisshoesbetokenedthathehadtravelledonfootsomedistance，buthewasinaveryjocosestate，andshookhandswiththissoldier，andclappedthatoneontheback，andtalkedandlaughedcontinually，likearoaringidledogashewas。 Thesoldiersratherlaughedatthisbladethanwithhim:seemingtosay，astheystoodstraighteningtheircanesintheirhands，andlookingcoollyathimovertheirglazedstocks，\'Goon，myboy，whileyoumay!you\'llknowbetterby-and-by:\'whensuddenlythenovice，whohadbeenbackingtowardsthegangwayinhisnoisymerriment，felloverboardbeforetheireyes，andsplashedheavilydownintotheriverbetweenthevesselandthedock。 Ineversawsuchagoodthingasthechangethatcameoverthesesoldiersinaninstant。Almostbeforethemanwasdown，theirprofessionalmanner，theirstiffnessandconstraint，weregone，andtheywerefilledwiththemostviolentenergy。Inlesstimethanisrequiredtotellit，theyhadhimoutagain，feetfirst，withthetailsofhiscoatflappingoverhiseyes，everythingabouthimhangingthewrongway，andthewaterstreamingoffateverythreadinhisthreadbaredress。Butthemomenttheysethimuprightandfoundthathewasnonetheworse，theyweresoldiersagain，lookingovertheirglazedstocksmorecomposedlythanever。 Thehalf-soberedrecruitglancedroundforamoment，asifhisfirstimpulseweretoexpresssomegratitudeforhispreservation，butseeingthemwiththisairoftotalunconcern，andhavinghiswetpipepresentedtohimwithanoathbythesoldierwhohadbeenbyfarthemostanxiousoftheparty，hestuckitinhismouth，thrusthishandsintohismoistpockets，andwithoutevenshakingthewateroffhisclothes，walkedonboardwhistling；nottosayasifnothinghadhappened，butasifhehadmeanttodoit，andithadbeenaperfectsuccess。 Oursteamboatcameupdirectlythishadleftthewharf，andsoonboreustothemouthoftheNiagara；wherethestarsandstripesofAmericaflutterononesideandtheUnionJackofEnglandontheother:andsonarrowisthespacebetweenthemthatthesentinelsineitherfortcanoftenhearthewatchwordoftheothercountrygiven。ThenceweemergedonLakeOntario，aninlandsea；andbyhalf-pastsixo\'clockwereatToronto。 Thecountryroundthistownbeingveryflat，isbareofscenicinterest；butthetownitselfisfulloflifeandmotion，bustle，business，andimprovement。Thestreetsarewellpaved，andlightedwithgas；thehousesarelargeandgood；theshopsexcellent。Manyofthemhaveadisplayofgoodsintheirwindows，suchasmaybeseeninthrivingcountytownsinEngland；andtherearesomewhichwoulddonodiscredittothemetropolisitself。Thereisagoodstoneprisonhere；andthereare，besides，ahandsomechurch，acourt-house，publicoffices，manycommodiousprivateresidences，andagovernmentobservatoryfornotingandrecordingthemagneticvariations。IntheCollegeofUpperCanada，whichisoneofthepublicestablishmentsofthecity，asoundeducationineverydepartmentofpolitelearningcanbehad，ataverymoderateexpense:theannualchargefortheinstructionofeachpupil，notexceedingninepoundssterling。Ithasprettygoodendowmentsinthewayofland，andisavaluableandusefulinstitution。 Thefirststoneofanewcollegehadbeenlaidbutafewdaysbefore，bytheGovernorGeneral。Itwillbeahandsome，spaciousedifice，approachedbyalongavenue，whichisalreadyplantedandmadeavailableasapublicwalk。Thetowniswelladaptedforwholesomeexerciseatallseasons，forthefootwaysinthethoroughfareswhichliebeyondtheprincipalstreet，areplankedlikefloors，andkeptinverygoodandcleanrepair。 Itisamatterofdeepregretthatpoliticaldifferencesshouldhaverunhighinthisplace，andledtomostdiscreditableanddisgracefulresults。Itisnotlongsincegunsweredischargedfromawindowinthistownatthesuccessfulcandidatesinanelection，andthecoachmanofoneofthemwasactuallyshotinthebody，thoughnotdangerouslywounded。Butonemanwaskilledonthesameoccasion；andfromtheverywindowwhencehereceivedhisdeath，theveryflagwhichshieldedhismurderer(notonlyinthecommissionofhiscrime，butfromitsconsequences)，wasdisplayedagainontheoccasionofthepublicceremonyperformedbytheGovernorGeneral，towhichIhavejustadverted。Ofallthecoloursintherainbow，thereisbutonewhichcouldbesoemployed:Ineednotsaythatflagwasorange。 ThetimeofleavingTorontoforKingstonisnoon。Byeighto\'clocknextmorning，thetravellerisattheendofhisjourney，whichisperformedbysteamboatuponLakeOntario，callingatPortHopeandCoburg，thelatteracheerful，thrivinglittletown。Vastquantitiesofflourformthechiefiteminthefreightofthesevessels。Wehadnofewerthanonethousandandeightybarrelsonboard，betweenCoburgandKingston。 Thelatterplace，whichisnowtheseatofgovernmentinCanada，isaverypoortown，renderedstillpoorerintheappearanceofitsmarket-placebytheravagesofarecentfire。Indeed，itmaybesaidofKingston，thatonehalfofitappearstobeburntdown，andtheotherhalfnottobebuiltup。TheGovernmentHouseisneitherelegantnorcommodious，yetitisalmosttheonlyhouseofanyimportanceintheneighbourhood。 Thereisanadmirablejailhere，wellandwiselygoverned，andexcellentlyregulated，ineveryrespect。Themenwereemployedasshoemakers，ropemakers，blacksmiths，tailors，carpenters，andstonecutters；andinbuildinganewprison，whichwasprettyfaradvancedtowardscompletion。Thefemaleprisonerswereoccupiedinneedlework。Amongthemwasabeautifulgirloftwenty，whohadbeentherenearlythreeyears。Sheactedasbearerofsecretdespatchesfortheself-styledPatriotsonNavyIsland，duringtheCanadianInsurrection:sometimesdressingasagirl，andcarryingtheminherstays；sometimesattiringherselfasaboy，andsecretingthemintheliningofherhat。Inthelattercharactershealwaysrodeasaboywould，whichwasnothingtoher，forshecouldgovernanyhorsethatanymancouldride，andcoulddrivefour-in-handwiththebestwhipinthoseparts。Settingforthononeofherpatrioticmissions，sheappropriatedtoherselfthefirsthorseshecouldlayherhandson；andthisoffencehadbroughtherwhereIsawher。Shehadquitealovelyface，though，asthereadermaysupposefromthissketchofherhistory，therewasalurkingdevilinherbrighteye，whichlookedoutprettysharplyfrombetweenherprisonbars。 Thereisabomb-proofforthereofgreatstrength，whichoccupiesaboldposition，andiscapable，doubtless，ofdoinggoodservice； thoughthetownismuchtoocloseuponthefrontiertobelongheld，Ishouldimagine，foritspresentpurposeintroubledtimes。 Thereisalsoasmallnavy-yard，whereacoupleofGovernmentsteamboatswerebuilding，andgettingonvigorously。 WeleftKingstonforMontrealonthetenthofMay，athalf-pastnineinthemorning，andproceededinasteamboatdowntheSt。 Lawrenceriver。Thebeautyofthisnoblestreamatalmostanypoint，butespeciallyinthecommencementofthisjourneywhenitwindsitswayamongthethousandIslands，canhardlybeimagined。 Thenumberandconstantsuccessionsoftheseislands，allgreenandrichlywooded；theirfluctuatingsizes，somesolargethatforhalfanhourtogetheroneamongthemwillappearastheoppositebankoftheriver，andsomesosmallthattheyaremeredimplesonitsbroadbosom；theirinfinitevarietyofshapes；andthenumberlesscombinationsofbeautifulformswhichthetreesgrowingonthempresent:allformapicturefraughtwithuncommoninterestandpleasure。 Intheafternoonweshotdownsomerapidswheretheriverboiledandbubbledstrangely，andwheretheforceandheadlongviolenceofthecurrentweretremendous。Atseveno\'clockwereachedDickenson\'sLanding，whencetravellersproceedfortwoorthreehoursbystage-coach:thenavigationoftheriverbeingrenderedsodangerousanddifficultintheinterval，byrapids，thatsteamboatsdonotmakethepassage。ThenumberandlengthofthosePORTAGES，overwhichtheroadsarebad，andthetravellingslow，renderthewaybetweenthetownsofMontrealandKingston，somewhattedious。 Ourcourselayoverawide，uninclosedtractofcountryatalittledistancefromtheriver-side，whencethebrightwarninglightsonthedangerouspartsoftheSt。Lawrenceshonevividly。Thenightwasdarkandraw，andthewaydrearyenough。Itwasnearlyteno\'clockwhenwereachedthewharfwherethenextsteamboatlay；andwentonboard，andtobed。 Shelaythereallnight，andstartedassoonasitwasday。Themorningwasusheredinbyaviolentthunderstorm，andwasverywet，butgraduallyimprovedandbrightenedup。Goingondeckafterbreakfast，Iwasamazedtoseefloatingdownwiththestream，amostgiganticraft，withsomethirtyorfortywoodenhousesuponit，andatleastasmanyflag-masts，sothatitlookedlikeanauticalstreet。Isawmanyoftheseraftsafterwards，butneveronesolarge。Allthetimber，or\'lumber，\'asitiscalledinAmerica，whichisbroughtdowntheSt。Lawrence，isfloateddowninthismanner。Whentheraftreachesitsplaceofdestination，itisbrokenup；thematerialsaresold；andtheboatmenreturnformore。 Ateightwelandedagain，andtravelledbyastage-coachforfourhoursthroughapleasantandwell-cultivatedcountry，perfectlyFrenchineveryrespect:intheappearanceofthecottages；theair，language，anddressofthepeasantry；thesign-boardsontheshopsandtaverns:andtheVirgin\'sshrines，andcrosses，bythewayside。Nearlyeverycommonlabourerandboy，thoughhehadnoshoestohisfeet，woreroundhiswaistasashofsomebrightcolour:generallyred:andthewomen，whowereworkinginthefieldsandgardens，anddoingallkindsofhusbandry，wore，oneandall，greatflatstrawhatswithmostcapaciousbrims。TherewereCatholicPriestsandSistersofCharityinthevillagestreets；andimagesoftheSaviouratthecornersofcross-roads，andinotherpublicplaces。 Atnoonwewentonboardanothersteamboat，andreachedthevillageofLachine，ninemilesfromMontreal，bythreeo\'clock。There，welefttheriver，andwentonbyland。 MontrealispleasantlysituatedonthemarginoftheSt。Lawrence，andisbackedbysomeboldheights，aboutwhichtherearecharmingridesanddrives。Thestreetsaregenerallynarrowandirregular，asinmostFrenchtownsofanyage；butinthemoremodernpartsofthecity，theyarewideandairy。Theydisplayagreatvarietyofverygoodshops；andbothinthetownandsuburbstherearemanyexcellentprivatedwellings。Thegranitequaysareremarkablefortheirbeauty，solidity，andextent。 ThereisaverylargeCatholiccathedralhere，recentlyerectedwithtwotallspires，ofwhichoneisyetunfinished。Intheopenspaceinfrontofthisedifice，standsasolitary，grim-looking，squarebricktower，whichhasaquaintandremarkableappearance，andwhichthewiseacresoftheplacehaveconsequentlydeterminedtopulldownimmediately。TheGovernmentHouseisverysuperiortothatatKingston，andthetownisfulloflifeandbustle。Inoneofthesuburbsisaplankroad-notfootpath-fiveorsixmileslong，andafamousroaditistoo。Alltheridesinthevicinityweremadedoublyinterestingbytheburstingoutofspring，whichisheresorapid，thatitisbutaday\'sleapfrombarrenwinter，tothebloomingyouthofsummer。 ThesteamboatstoQuebecperformthejourneyinthenight；thatistosay，theyleaveMontrealatsixintheevening，andarriveatQuebecatsixnextmorning。WemadethisexcursionduringourstayinMontreal(whichexceededafortnight)，andwerecharmedbyitsinterestandbeauty。 TheimpressionmadeuponthevisitorbythisGibraltarofAmerica: itsgiddyheights；itscitadelsuspended，asitwere，intheair； itspicturesquesteepstreetsandfrowninggateways；andthesplendidviewswhichburstupontheeyeateveryturn:isatonceuniqueandlasting。 Itisaplacenottobeforgottenormixedupinthemindwithotherplaces，oralteredforamomentinthecrowdofscenesatravellercanrecall。Apartfromtherealitiesofthismostpicturesquecity，thereareassociationsclusteringaboutitwhichwouldmakeadesertrichininterest。Thedangerousprecipicealongwhoserockyfront，Wolfeandhisbravecompanionsclimbedtoglory；thePlainsofAbraham，wherehereceivedhismortalwound； thefortresssochivalrouslydefendedbyMontcalm；andhissoldier\'sgrave，dugforhimwhileyetalive，bytheburstingofashell；arenottheleastamongthem，oramongthegallantincidentsofhistory。ThatisanobleMonumenttoo，andworthyoftwogreatnations，whichperpetuatesthememoryofbothbravegenerals，andonwhichtheirnamesarejointlywritten。 ThecityisrichinpublicinstitutionsandinCatholicchurchesandcharities，butitismainlyintheprospectfromthesiteoftheOldGovernmentHouse，andfromtheCitadel，thatitssurpassingbeautylies。Theexquisiteexpanseofcountry，richinfieldandforest，mountain-heightandwater，whichliesstretchedoutbeforetheview，withmilesofCanadianvillages，glancinginlongwhitestreaks，likeveinsalongthelandscape；themotleycrowdofgables，roofs，andchimneytopsintheoldhillytownimmediatelyathand；thebeautifulSt。Lawrencesparklingandflashinginthesunlight；andthetinyshipsbelowtherockfromwhichyougaze，whosedistantrigginglookslikespiders\'websagainstthelight，whilecasksandbarrelsontheirdecksdwindleintotoys，andbusymarinersbecomesomanypuppets；allthis，framedbyasunkenwindowinthefortressandlookedatfromtheshadowedroomwithin，formsoneofthebrightestandmostenchantingpicturesthattheeyecanrestupon。 Inthespringoftheyear，vastnumbersofemigrantswhohavenewlyarrivedfromEnglandorfromIreland，passbetweenQuebecandMontrealontheirwaytothebackwoodsandnewsettlementsofCanada。Ifitbeanentertaininglounge(asIveryoftenfoundit) totakeamorningstrolluponthequayatMontreal，andseethemgroupedinhundredsonthepublicwharfsabouttheirchestsandboxes，itismatterofdeepinteresttobetheirfellow-passengerononeofthesesteamboats，andminglingwiththeconcourse，seeandhearthemunobserved。 ThevesselinwhichwereturnedfromQuebectoMontrealwascrowdedwiththem，andatnighttheyspreadtheirbedsbetweendecks(thosewhohadbeds，atleast)，andsleptsocloseandthickaboutourcabindoor，thatthepassagetoandfrowasquiteblockedup。TheywerenearlyallEnglish；fromGloucestershirethegreaterpart；andhadhadalongwinter-passageout；butitwaswonderfultoseehowcleanthechildrenhadbeenkept，andhowuntiringintheirloveandself-denialallthepoorparentswere。 Cantaswemay，andasweshalltotheendofallthings，itisverymuchharderforthepoortobevirtuousthanitisfortherich；andthegoodthatisinthem，shinesthebrighterforit。Inmanyanoblemansionlivesaman，thebestofhusbandsandoffathers，whoseprivateworthinbothcapacitiesisjustlylaudedtotheskies。Butbringhimhere，uponthiscrowdeddeck。Stripfromhisfairyoungwifehersilkendressandjewels，unbindherbraidedhair，stampearlywrinklesonherbrow，pinchherpalecheekwithcareandmuchprivation，arrayherfadedformincoarselypatchedattire，lettherebenothingbuthislovetosetherforthordeckherout，andyoushallputittotheproofindeed。Sochangehisstationintheworld，thatheshallseeinthoseyoungthingswhoclimbabouthisknee:notrecordsofhiswealthandname:butlittlewrestlerswithhimforhisdailybread；somanypoachersonhisscantymeal；somanyunitstodividehiseverysumofcomfort，andfarthertoreduceitssmallamount。Inlieuoftheendearmentsofchildhoodinitssweetestaspect，heapuponhimallitspainsandwants，itssicknessesandills，itsfretfulness，caprice，andquerulousendurance:letitsprattlebe，notofengaginginfantfancies，butofcold，andthirst，andhunger:andifhisfatherlyaffectionoutliveallthis，andhebepatient，watchful，tender； carefulofhischildren\'slives，andmindfulalwaysoftheirjoysandsorrows；thensendhimbacktoParliament，andPulpit，andtoQuarterSessions，andwhenhehearsfinetalkofthedepravityofthosewholivefromhandtomouth，andlabourhardtodoit，lethimspeakup，asonewhoknows，andtellthoseholdersforththatthey，byparallelwithsuchaclass，shouldbeHighAngelsintheirdailylives，andlaybuthumblesiegetoHeavenatlast。 Whichofusshallsaywhathewouldbe，ifsuchrealities，withsmallrelieforchangeallthroughhisdays，werehis!Lookingrounduponthesepeople:farfromhome，houseless，indigent，wandering，wearywithtravelandhardliving:andseeinghowpatientlytheynursedandtendedtheiryoungchildren:howtheyconsultedevertheirwantsfirst，thenhalfsuppliedtheirown； whatgentleministersofhopeandfaiththewomenwere；howthemenprofitedbytheirexample；andhowvery，veryseldomevenamoment\'spetulanceorharshcomplaintbrokeoutamongthem:Ifeltastrongerloveandhonourofmykindcomeglowingonmyheart，andwishedtoGodtherehadbeenmanyAtheistsinthebetterpartofhumannaturethere，toreadthissimplelessoninthebookofLife。 WeleftMontrealforNewYorkagain，onthethirtiethofMay，crossingtoLaPrairie，ontheoppositeshoreoftheSt。Lawrence，inasteamboat；wethentooktherailroadtoSt。John\'s，whichisonthebrinkofLakeChamplain。OurlastgreetinginCanadawasfromtheEnglishofficersinthepleasantbarracksatthatplace(aclassofgentlemenwhohadmadeeveryhourofourvisitmemorablebytheirhospitalityandfriendship)；andwith\'RuleBritannia\' soundinginourears，soonleftitfarbehind。 ButCanadahasheld，andalwayswillretain，aforemostplaceinmyremembrance。FewEnglishmenarepreparedtofinditwhatitis。 Advancingquietly；olddifferencessettlingdown，andbeingfastforgotten；publicfeelingandprivateenterprisealikeinasoundandwholesomestate；nothingofflushorfeverinitssystem，buthealthandvigourthrobbinginitssteadypulse:itisfullofhopeandpromise。Tome-whohadbeenaccustomedtothinkofitassomethingleftbehindinthestridesofadvancingsociety，assomethingneglectedandforgotten，slumberingandwastinginitssleep-thedemandforlabourandtheratesofwages；thebusyquaysofMontreal；thevesselstakingintheircargoes，anddischargingthem；theamountofshippinginthedifferentports；