第13章

thecommerce，roads，andpublicworks，allmadeTOLAST；therespectabilityandcharacterofthepublicjournals；andtheamountofrationalcomfortandhappinesswhichhonestindustrymayearn: wereverygreatsurprises。Thesteamboatsonthelakes，intheirconveniences，cleanliness，andsafety；inthegentlemanlycharacterandbearingoftheircaptains；andinthepolitenessandperfectcomfortoftheirsocialregulations；areunsurpassedevenbythefamousScotchvessels，deservedlysomuchesteemedathome。Theinnsareusuallybad；becausethecustomofboardingathotelsisnotsogeneralhereasintheStates，andtheBritishofficers，whoformalargeportionofthesocietyofeverytown，livechieflyattheregimentalmesses:butineveryotherrespect，thetravellerinCanadawillfindasgoodprovisionforhiscomfortasinanyplaceIknow。 ThereisoneAmericanboat-thevesselwhichcarriedusonLakeChamplain，fromSt。John\'stoWhitehall-whichIpraiseveryhighly，butnomorethanitdeserves，whenIsaythatitissuperioreventothatinwhichwewentfromQueenstontoToronto，ortothatinwhichwetravelledfromthelatterplacetoKingston，orIhavenodoubtImayaddtoanyotherintheworld。Thissteamboat，whichiscalledtheBurlington，isaperfectlyexquisiteachievementofneatness，elegance，andorder。Thedecksaredrawing-rooms；thecabinsareboudoirs，choicelyfurnishedandadornedwithprints，pictures，andmusicalinstruments；everynookandcornerinthevesselisaperfectcuriosityofgracefulcomfortandbeautifulcontrivance。CaptainSherman，hercommander，towhoseingenuityandexcellenttastetheseresultsaresolelyattributable，hasbravelyandworthilydistinguishedhimselfonmorethanonetryingoccasion:notleastamongthem，inhavingthemoralcouragetocarryBritishtroops，atatime(duringtheCanadianrebellion)whennootherconveyancewasopentothem。Heandhisvesselareheldinuniversalrespect，bothbyhisowncountrymenandours；andnomaneverenjoyedthepopularesteem，who，inhissphereofaction，wonandworeitbetterthanthisgentleman。 BymeansofthisfloatingpalaceweweresoonintheUnitedStatesagain，andcalledthateveningatBurlington；aprettytown，wherewelayanhourorso。WereachedWhitehall，whereweweretodisembark，atsixnextmorning；andmighthavedonesoearlier，butthatthesesteamboatsliebyforsomehoursinthenight，inconsequenceofthelakebecomingverynarrowatthatpartofthejourney，anddifficultofnavigationinthedark。Itswidthissocontractedatonepoint，indeed，thattheyareobligedtowarproundbymeansofarope。 AfterbreakfastingatWhitehall，wetookthestage-coachforAlbany:alargeandbusytown，wherewearrivedbetweenfiveandsixo\'clockthatafternoon；afteraveryhotday\'sjourney，forwewerenowintheheightofsummeragain。AtsevenwestartedforNewYorkonboardagreatNorthRiversteamboat，whichwassocrowdedwithpassengersthattheupperdeckwasliketheboxlobbyofatheatrebetweenthepieces，andtheloweronelikeTottenhamCourtRoadonaSaturdaynight。Butwesleptsoundly，notwithstanding，andsoonafterfiveo\'clocknextmorningreachedNewYork。 Tarryinghere，onlythatdayandnight，torecruitafterourlatefatigues，westartedoffoncemoreuponourlastjourneyinAmerica。WehadyetfivedaystosparebeforeembarkingforEngland，andIhadagreatdesiretosee\'theShakerVillage，\' whichispeopledbyareligioussectfromwhomittakesitsname。 Tothisend，wewentuptheNorthRiveragain，asfarasthetownofHudson，andtherehiredanextratocarryustoLebanon，thirtymilesdistant:andofcourseanotherandadifferentLebanonfromthatvillagewhereIsleptonthenightofthePrairietrip。 Thecountrythroughwhichtheroadmeandered，wasrichandbeautiful；theweatherveryfine；andformanymilestheKaatskillmountains，whereRipVanWinkleandtheghostlyDutchmenplayedatninepinsonememorablegustyafternoon，toweredinthebluedistance，likestatelyclouds。Atonepoint，asweascendedasteephill，athwartwhosebasearailroad，yetconstructing，tookitscourse，wecameuponanIrishcolony。Withmeansathandofbuildingdecentcabins，itwaswonderfultoseehowclumsy，rough，andwretched，itshovelswere。Thebestwerepoorprotectionfromtheweathertheworstletinthewindandrainthroughwidebreachesintheroofsofsoddengrass，andinthewallsofmud； somehadneitherdoornorwindow；somehadnearlyfallendown，andwereimperfectlyproppedupbystakesandpoles；allwereruinousandfilthy。Hideouslyuglyoldwomenandverybuxomyoungones，pigs，dogs，men，children，babies，pots，kettles，dung-hills，vilerefuse，rankstraw，andstandingwater，allwallowingtogetherinaninseparableheap，composedthefurnitureofeverydarkanddirtyhut。 Betweennineandteno\'clockatnight，wearrivedatLebanonwhichisrenownedforitswarmbaths，andforagreathotel，welladapted，Ihavenodoubt，tothegregarioustasteofthoseseekersafterhealthorpleasurewhorepairhere，butinexpressiblycomfortlesstome。Wewereshownintoanimmenseapartment，lightedbytwodimcandles，calledthedrawing-room:fromwhichtherewasadescentbyaflightofsteps，toanothervastdesert，calledthedining-room:ourbed-chamberswereamongcertainlongrowsoflittlewhite-washedcells，whichopenedfromeithersideofadrearypassage；andweresolikeroomsinaprisonthatIhalfexpectedtobelockedupwhenIwenttobed，andlistenedinvoluntarilyfortheturningofthekeyontheoutside。Thereneedbebathssomewhereintheneighbourhood，fortheotherwashingarrangementswereonaslimitedascaleasIeversaw，eveninAmerica:indeed，thesebedroomsweresoverybareofevensuchcommonluxuriesaschairs，thatIshouldsaytheywerenotprovidedwithenoughofanything，butthatIbethinkmyselfofourhavingbeenmostbountifullybittenallnight。 Thehouseisverypleasantlysituated，however，andwehadagoodbreakfast。Thatdone，wewenttovisitourplaceofdestination，whichwassometwomilesoff，andthewaytowhichwassoonindicatedbyafinger-post，whereonwaspainted，\'TotheShakerVillage。\' Aswerodealong，wepassedapartyofShakers，whowereatworkupontheroad；whoworethebroadestofallbroad-brimmedhats；andwereinallvisiblerespectssuchverywoodenmen，thatIfeltaboutasmuchsympathyforthem，andasmuchinterestinthem，asiftheyhadbeensomanyfigure-headsofships。Presentlywecametothebeginningofthevillage，andalightingatthedoorofahousewheretheShakermanufacturesaresold，andwhichistheheadquartersoftheelders，requestedpermissiontoseetheShakerworship。 Pendingtheconveyanceofthisrequesttosomepersoninauthority，wewalkedintoagrimroom，whereseveralgrimhatswerehangingongrimpegs，andthetimewasgrimlytoldbyagrimclockwhichutteredeverytickwithakindofstruggle，asifitbrokethegrimsilencereluctantly，andunderprotest。Rangedagainstthewallweresixoreightstiff，high-backedchairs，andtheypartooksostronglyofthegeneralgrimnessthatonewouldmuchratherhavesatonthefloorthanincurredthesmallestobligationtoanyofthem。 Presently，therestalkedintothisapartment，agrimoldShaker，witheyesashard，anddull，andcold，asthegreatroundmetalbuttonsonhiscoatandwaistcoat；asortofcalmgoblin。Beinginformedofourdesire，heproducedanewspaperwhereinthebodyofelders，whereofhewasamember，hadadvertisedbutafewdaysbefore，thatinconsequenceofcertainunseemlyinterruptionswhichtheirworshiphadreceivedfromstrangers，theirchapelwasclosedtothepublicforthespaceofoneyear。 Asnothingwastobeurgedinoppositiontothisreasonablearrangement，werequestedleavetomakesometriflingpurchasesofShakergoods；whichwasgrimlyconceded。Weaccordinglyrepairedtoastoreinthesamehouseandontheoppositesideofthepassage，wherethestockwaspresidedoverbysomethingaliveinarussetcase，whichtheeldersaidwasawoman；andwhichIsupposeWASawoman，thoughIshouldnothavesuspectedit。 Ontheoppositesideoftheroadwastheirplaceofworship:acool，cleanedificeofwood，withlargewindowsandgreenblinds: likeaspacioussummer-house。Astherewasnogettingintothisplace，andnothingwastobedonebutwalkupanddown，andlookatitandtheotherbuildingsinthevillage(whichwerechieflyofwood，paintedadarkredlikeEnglishbarns，andcomposedofmanystorieslikeEnglishfactories)，Ihavenothingtocommunicatetothereader，beyondthescantyresultsIgleanedthewhileourpurchasesweremaking，ThesepeoplearecalledShakersfromtheirpeculiarformofadoration，whichconsistsofadance，performedbythemenandwomenofallages，whoarrangethemselvesforthatpurposeinoppositeparties:themenfirstdivestingthemselvesoftheirhatsandcoats，whichtheygravelyhangagainstthewallbeforetheybegin；andtyingaribbonroundtheirshirt-sleeves，asthoughtheyweregoingtobebled。Theyaccompanythemselveswithadroning，hummingnoise，anddanceuntiltheyarequiteexhausted，alternatelyadvancingandretiringinapreposteroussortoftrot。 Theeffectissaidtobeunspeakablyabsurd:andifImayjudgefromaprintofthisceremonywhichIhaveinmypossession；andwhichIaminformedbythosewhohavevisitedthechapel，isperfectlyaccurate；itmustbeinfinitelygrotesque。 Theyaregovernedbyawoman，andherruleisunderstoodtobeabsolute，thoughshehastheassistanceofacouncilofelders。 Shelives，itissaid，instrictseclusion，incertainroomsabovethechapel，andisnevershowntoprofaneeyes。Ifsheatallresembletheladywhopresidedoverthestore，itisagreatcharitytokeepherascloseaspossible，andIcannottoostronglyexpressmyperfectconcurrenceinthisbenevolentproceeding。 Allthepossessionsandrevenuesofthesettlementarethrownintoacommonstock，whichismanagedbytheelders。Astheyhavemadeconvertsamongpeoplewhowerewelltodointheworld，andarefrugalandthrifty，itisunderstoodthatthisfundprospers:themoreespeciallyastheyhavemadelargepurchasesofland。NoristhisatLebanontheonlyShakersettlement:thereare，Ithink，atleast，threeothers。 Theyaregoodfarmers，andalltheirproduceiseagerlypurchasedandhighlyesteemed。\'Shakerseeds，\'\'Shakerherbs，\'and\'Shakerdistilledwaters，\'arecommonlyannouncedforsaleintheshopsoftownsandcities。Theyaregoodbreedersofcattle，andarekindandmercifultothebrutecreation。Consequently，Shakerbeastsseldomfailtofindareadymarket。 Theyeatanddrinktogether，aftertheSpartanmodel，atagreatpublictable。Thereisnounionofthesexes，andeveryShaker，maleandfemale，isdevotedtoalifeofcelibacy。Rumourhasbeenbusyuponthistheme，buthereagainImustrefertotheladyofthestore，andsay，thatifmanyofthesisterShakersresembleher，Itreatallsuchslanderasbearingonitsfacethestrongestmarksofwildimprobability。Butthattheytakeasproselytes，personssoyoungthattheycannotknowtheirownminds，andcannotpossessmuchstrengthofresolutioninthisoranyotherrespect，I canassertfrommyownobservationoftheextremejuvenilityofcertainyouthfulShakerswhomIsawatworkamongthepartyontheroad。 Theyaresaidtobegooddriversofbargains，buttobehonestandjustintheirtransactions，andeveninhorse-dealingtoresistthosethievishtendencieswhichwouldseem，forsomeundiscoveredreason，tobealmostinseparablefromthatbranchoftraffic。Inallmatterstheyholdtheirowncoursequietly，liveintheirgloomy，silentcommonwealth，andshowlittledesiretointerferewithotherpeople。 Thisiswellenough，butneverthelessIcannot，Iconfess，inclinetowardstheShakers；viewthemwithmuchfavour，orextendtowardsthemanyverylenientconstruction。Isoabhor，andfrommysouldetestthatbadspirit，nomatterbywhatclassorsectitmaybeentertained，whichwouldstriplifeofitshealthfulgraces，robyouthofitsinnocentpleasures，pluckfrommaturityandagetheirpleasantornaments，andmakeexistencebutanarrowpathtowardsthegrave:thatodiousspiritwhich，ifitcouldhavehadfullscopeandswayupontheearth，musthaveblastedandmadebarrentheimaginationsofthegreatestmen，andleftthem，intheirpowerofraisingupenduringimagesbeforetheirfellow-creaturesyetunborn，nobetterthanthebeasts:that，intheseverybroad- brimmedhatsandverysombrecoats-instiff-necked，solemn- visagedpiety，inshort，nomatterwhatitsgarb，whetherithavecroppedhairasinaShakervillage，orlongnailsasinaHindootemple-IrecognisetheworstamongtheenemiesofHeavenandEarth，whoturnthewateratthemarriagefeastsofthispoorworld，notintowine，butgall。Andiftheremustbepeoplevowedtocrushtheharmlessfanciesandtheloveofinnocentdelightsandgaieties，whichareapartofhumannature:asmuchapartofitasanyotherloveorhopethatisourcommonportion:letthem，forme，standopenlyrevealedamongtheribaldandlicentious；theveryidiotsknowthatTHEYarenotontheImmortalroad，andwilldespisethem，andavoidthemreadily。 LeavingtheShakervillagewithaheartydislikeoftheoldShakers，andaheartypityfortheyoungones:temperedbythestrongprobabilityoftheirrunningawayastheygrowolderandwiser，whichtheynotuncommonlydo:wereturnedtoLebanon，andsotoHudson，bythewaywehadcomeuponthepreviousday。There，wetookthesteamboatdowntheNorthRivertowardsNewYork，butstopped，somefourhours\'journeyshortofit，atWestPoint，whereweremainedthatnight，andallnextday，andnextnighttoo。 Inthisbeautifulplace:thefairestamongthefairandlovelyHighlandsoftheNorthRiver:shutinbydeepgreenheightsandruinedforts，andlookingdownuponthedistanttownofNewburgh，alongaglitteringpathofsunlitwater，withhereandthereaskiff，whosewhitesailoftenbendsonsomenewtackassuddenflawsofwindcomedownuponherfromthegulliesinthehills: hemmedin，besides，allroundwithmemoriesofWashington，andeventsoftherevolutionarywar:istheMilitarySchoolofAmerica。 Itcouldnotstandonmoreappropriateground，andanygroundmorebeautifulcanhardlybe。Thecourseofeducationissevere，butwelldevised，andmanly。ThroughJune，July，andAugust，theyoungmenencampuponthespaciousplainwhereonthecollegestands；andalltheyeartheirmilitaryexercisesareperformedthere，daily。 Thetermofstudyatthisinstitution，whichtheStaterequiresfromallcadets，isfouryears；but，whetheritbefromtherigidnatureofthediscipline，orthenationalimpatienceofrestraint，orbothcausescombined，notmorethanhalfthenumberwhobegintheirstudieshere，everremaintofinishthem。 ThenumberofcadetsbeingaboutequaltothatofthemembersofCongress，oneissentherefromeveryCongressionaldistrict:itsmemberinfluencingtheselection。Commissionsintheservicearedistributedonthesameprinciple。ThedwellingsofthevariousProfessorsarebeautifullysituated；andthereisamostexcellenthotelforstrangers，thoughithasthetwodrawbacksofbeingatotalabstinencehouse(winesandspiritsbeingforbiddentothestudents)，andofservingthepublicmealsatratheruncomfortablehours:towit，breakfastatseven，dinneratone，andsupperatsunset。 Thebeautyandfreshnessofthiscalmretreat，intheverydawnandgreennessofsummer-itwasthenthebeginningofJune-wereexquisiteindeed。Leavingituponthesixth，andreturningtoNewYork，toembarkforEnglandonthesucceedingday，Iwasgladtothinkthatamongthelastmemorablebeautieswhichhadglidedpastus，andsoftenedinthebrightperspective，werethosewhosepictures，tracedbynocommonhand，arefreshinmostmen\'sminds； noteasilytogrowold，orfadebeneaththedustofTime:theKaatskillMountains，SleepyHollow，andtheTappaanZee。 CHAPTERXVI-THEPASSAGEHOME INEVERhadsomuchinterestbefore，andverylikelyIshallneverhavesomuchinterestagain，inthestateofthewind，asonthelong-looked-formorningofTuesdaytheSeventhofJune。Somenauticalauthorityhadtoldmeadayortwoprevious，\'anythingwithwestinit，willdo；\'sowhenIdartedoutofbedatdaylight，andthrowingupthewindow，wassalutedbyalivelybreezefromthenorth-westwhichhadsprungupinthenight，itcameuponmesofreshly，rustlingwithsomanyhappyassociations，thatIconceiveduponthespotaspecialregardforallairsblowingfromthatquarterofthecompass，whichIshallcherish，Idaresay，untilmyownwindhasbreatheditslastfrailpuff，andwithdrawnitselfforeverfromthemortalcalendar。 Thepilothadnotbeenslowtotakeadvantageofthisfavourableweather，andtheshipwhichyesterdayhadbeeninsuchacrowdeddockthatshemighthaveretiredfromtradeforgoodandall，foranychancesheseemedtohaveofgoingtosea，wasnowfullsixteenmilesaway。Agallantsightshewas，whenwe，fastgainingonherinasteamboat，sawherinthedistanceridingatanchor:hertallmastspointingupingracefullinesagainstthesky，andeveryropeandsparexpressedindelicateandthread-likeoutline:gallant，too，when，webeingallaboard，theanchorcameuptothesturdychorus\'Cheerilymen，ohcheerily!\'andshefollowedproudlyinthetowingsteamboat\'swake:butbravestandmostgallantofall，whenthetow-ropebeingcastadrift，thecanvasflutteredfromhermasts，andspreadingherwhitewingsshesoaredawayuponherfreeandsolitarycourse。 Intheaftercabinwewereonlyfifteenpassengersinall，andthegreaterpartwerefromCanada，wheresomeofushadknowneachother。Thenightwasroughandsqually，sowerethenexttwodays，buttheyflewbyquickly，andweweresoonascheerfulandsnugaparty，withanhonest，manly-heartedcaptainatourhead，asevercametotheresolutionofbeingmutuallyagreeable，onlandorwater。 Webreakfastedateight，lunchedattwelve，dinedatthree，andtookourteaathalf-pastseven。Wehadabundanceofamusements，anddinnerwasnottheleastamongthem:firstly，foritsownsake；secondly，becauseofitsextraordinarylength:itsduration，inclusiveofallthelongpausesbetweenthecourses，beingseldomlessthantwohoursandahalf；whichwasasubjectofnever- failingentertainment。Bywayofbeguilingthetediousnessofthesebanquets，aselectassociationwasformedatthelowerendofthetable，belowthemast，towhosedistinguishedpresidentmodestyforbidsmetomakeanyfurtherallusion，which，beingaveryhilariousandjovialinstitution，was(prejudiceapart)inhighfavourwiththerestofthecommunity，andparticularlywithablacksteward，wholivedforthreeweeksinabroadgrinatthemarvelloushumouroftheseincorporatedworthies。 Then，wehadchessforthosewhoplayedit，whist，cribbage，books，backgammon，andshovelboard。Inallweathers，fairorfoul，calmorwindy，wewereeveryoneondeck，walkingupanddowninpairs，lyingintheboats，leaningovertheside，orchattinginalazygrouptogether。Wehadnolackofmusic，foroneplayedtheaccordion，anothertheviolin，andanother(whousuallybeganatsixo\'clockA。M。)thekey-bugle:thecombinedeffectofwhichinstruments，whentheyallplayeddifferenttunesindifferentspartsoftheship，atthesametime，andwithinhearingofeachother，astheysometimesdid(everybodybeingintenselysatisfiedwithhisownperformance)，wassublimelyhideous。 Whenallthesemeansofentertainmentfailed，asailwouldheaveinsight:looming，perhaps，theveryspiritofaship，inthemistydistance，orpassingussoclosethatthroughourglasseswecouldseethepeopleonherdecks，andeasilymakeouthername，andwhithershewasbound。Forhourstogetherwecouldwatchthedolphinsandporpoisesastheyrolledandleapedanddivedaroundthevessel；orthosesmallcreatureseveronthewing，theMotherCarey\'schickens，whichhadborneuscompanyfromNewYorkbay，andforawholefortnightflutteredaboutthevessel\'sstern。Forsomedayswehadadeadcalm，orverylightwinds，duringwhichthecrewamusedthemselveswithfishing，andhookedanunluckydolphin，whoexpired，inallhisrainbowcolours，onthedeck:aneventofsuchimportanceinourbarrencalendar，thatafterwardswedatedfromthedolphin，andmadethedayonwhichhedied，anera。 Besidesallthis，whenwewerefiveorsixdaysout，therebegantobemuchtalkoficebergs，ofwhichwanderingislandsanunusualnumberhadbeenseenbythevesselsthathadcomeintoNewYorkadayortwobeforeweleftthatport，andofwhosedangerousneighbourhoodwewerewarnedbythesuddencoldnessoftheweather，andthesinkingofthemercuryinthebarometer。Whilethesetokenslasted，adoublelook-outwaskept，andmanydismaltaleswerewhisperedafterdark，ofshipsthathadstruckupontheiceandgonedowninthenight；butthewindobligingustoholdasouthwardcourse，wesawnoneofthem，andtheweathersoongrewbrightandwarmagain。 Theobservationeverydayatnoon，andthesubsequentworkingofthevessel\'scourse，was，asmaybesupposed，afeatureinourlivesofparamountimportance；norweretherewanting(asthereneverare)sagaciousdoubtersofthecaptain\'scalculations，who，sosoonashisbackwasturned，would，intheabsenceofcompasses，measurethechartwithbitsofstring，andendsofpocket- handkerchiefs，andpointsofsnuffers，andclearlyprovehimtobewrongbyanoddthousandmilesorso。Itwasveryedifyingtoseetheseunbelieversshaketheirheadsandfrown，andhearthemholdforthstronglyuponnavigation:notthattheyknewanythingaboutit，butthattheyalwaysmistrustedthecaptainincalmweather，orwhenthewindwasadverse。Indeed，themercuryitselfisnotsovariableasthisclassofpassengers，whomyouwillsee，whentheshipisgoingnoblythroughthewater，quitepalewithadmiration，swearingthatthecaptainbeatsallcaptainseverknown，andevenhintingatsubscriptionsforapieceofplate；andwho，nextmorning，whenthebreezehaslulled，andallthesailshanguselessintheidleair，shaketheirdespondentheadsagain，andsay，withscrewed-uplips，theyhopethatcaptainisasailor-buttheyshrewdlydoubthim。 Itevenbecameanoccupationinthecalm，towonderwhenthewindWOULDspringupinthefavourablequarter，where，itwasclearlyshownbyalltherulesandprecedents，itoughttohavesprunguplongago。Thefirstmate，whowhistledforitzealously，wasmuchrespectedforhisperseverance，andwasregardedevenbytheunbelieversasafirst-ratesailor。Manygloomylookswouldbecastupwardthroughthecabinskylightsattheflappingsailswhiledinnerwasinprogress；andsome，growingboldinruefulness，predictedthatweshouldlandaboutthemiddleofJuly。Therearealwaysonboardship，aSanguineOne，andaDespondentOne。Thelattercharactercarriedithollowatthisperiodofthevoyage，andtriumphedovertheSanguineOneateverymeal，byinquiringwherehesupposedtheGreatWestern(whichleftNewYorkaweekafterus)wasNOW:andwherehesupposedthe\'Cunard\'steam-packetwasNOW:andwhathethoughtofsailingvessels，ascomparedwithsteamshipsNOW:andsobesethislifewithpestilentattacksofthatkind，thathetoowasobligedtoaffectdespondency，forverypeaceandquietude。 Thesewereadditionstothelistofentertainingincidents，buttherewasstillanothersourceofinterest。Wecarriedinthesteeragenearlyahundredpassengers:alittleworldofpoverty: andaswecametoknowindividualsamongthembysight，fromlookingdownuponthedeckwheretheytooktheairinthedaytime，andcookedtheirfood，andveryoftenateittoo，webecamecurioustoknowtheirhistories，andwithwhatexpectationstheyhadgoneouttoAmerica，andonwhaterrandstheyweregoinghome，andwhattheircircumstanceswere。Theinformationwegotontheseheadsfromthecarpenter，whohadchargeofthesepeople，wasoftenofthestrangestkind。SomeofthemhadbeeninAmericabutthreedays，somebutthreemonths，andsomehadgoneoutinthelastvoyageofthatveryshipinwhichtheywerenowreturninghome。 Othershadsoldtheirclothestoraisethepassage-money，andhadhardlyragstocoverthem；othershadnofood，andliveduponthecharityoftherest:andoneman，itwasdiscoverednearlyattheendofthevoyage，notbefore-forhekepthissecretclose，anddidnotcourtcompassion-hadhadnosustenancewhateverbutthebonesandscrapsoffathetookfromtheplatesusedintheafter- cabindinner，whentheywereputouttobewashed。 Thewholesystemofshippingandconveyingtheseunfortunatepersons，isonethatstandsinneedofthoroughrevision。IfanyclassdeservetobeprotectedandassistedbytheGovernment，itisthatclasswhoarebanishedfromtheirnativelandinsearchofthebaremeansofsubsistence。Allthatcouldbedoneforthesepoorpeoplebythegreatcompassionandhumanityofthecaptainandofficerswasdone，buttheyrequiremuchmore。Thelawisbound，atleastupontheEnglishside，toseethattoomanyofthemarenotputonboardoneship:andthattheiraccommodationsaredecent:notdemoralising，andprofligate。Itisbound，too，incommonhumanity，todeclarethatnomanshallbetakenonboardwithouthisstockofprovisionsbeingpreviouslyinspectedbysomeproperofficer，andpronouncedmoderatelysufficientforhissupportuponthevoyage。Itisboundtoprovide，ortorequirethattherebeprovided，amedicalattendant；whereasintheseshipstherearenone，thoughsicknessofadults，anddeathsofchildren，onthepassage，aremattersoftheverycommonestoccurrence。 AboveallitisthedutyofanyGovernment，beitmonarchyorrepublic，tointerposeandputanendtothatsystembywhichafirmoftradersinemigrantspurchaseoftheownersthewhole\'tween-decksofaship，andsendonboardasmanywretchedpeopleastheycanlayholdof，onanytermstheycanget，withoutthesmallestreferencetotheconveniencesofthesteerage，thenumberofberths，theslightestseparationofthesexes，oranythingbuttheirownimmediateprofit。Noriseventhistheworstofthevicioussystem:for，certaincrimpingagentsofthesehouses，whohaveapercentageonallthepassengerstheyinveigle，areconstantlytravellingaboutthosedistrictswherepovertyanddiscontentarerife，andtemptingthecredulousintomoremisery，byholdingoutmonstrousinducementstoemigrationwhichcanneverberealised。 Thehistoryofeveryfamilywehadonboardwasprettymuchthesame。Afterhoardingup，andborrowing，andbegging，andsellingeverythingtopaythepassage，theyhadgoneouttoNewYork，expectingtofinditsstreetspavedwithgold；andhadfoundthempavedwithveryhardandveryrealstones。Enterprisewasdull； labourerswerenotwanted；jobsofworkweretobegot，butthepaymentwasnot。Theywerecomingback，evenpoorerthantheywent。OneofthemwascarryinganopenletterfromayoungEnglishartisan，whohadbeeninNewYorkafortnight，toafriendnearManchester，whomhestronglyurgedtofollowhim。Oneoftheofficersbroughtittomeasacuriosity。\'Thisisthecountry，Jem，\'saidthewriter。\'IlikeAmerica。Thereisnodespotismhere；that\'sthegreatthing。Employmentofallsortsisgoinga- begging，andwagesarecapital。Youhaveonlytochooseatrade，Jem，andbeit。Ihaven\'tmadechoiceofoneyet，butIshallsoon。ATPRESENTIHAVEN\'TQUITEMADEUPMYMINDWHETHERTOBEA CARPENTER-ORATAILOR。\' Therewasyetanotherkindofpassenger，andbutonemore，who，inthecalmandthelightwinds，wasaconstantthemeofconversationandobservationamongus。ThiswasanEnglishsailor，asmart，thorough-built，Englishman-of-war\'s-manfromhishattohisshoes，whowasservingintheAmericannavy，andhavinggotleaveofabsencewasonhiswayhometoseehisfriends。Whenhepresentedhimselftotakeandpayforhispassage，ithadbeensuggestedtohimthatbeinganableseamanhemightaswellworkitandsavethemoney，butthispieceofadviceheveryindignantlyrejected: saying，\'He\'dbedamnedbutforoncehe\'dgoaboardship，asagentleman。\'Accordingly，theytookhismoney，buthenosoonercameaboard，thanhestowedhiskitintheforecastle，arrangedtomesswiththecrew，andtheveryfirsttimethehandswereturnedup，wentaloftlikeacat，beforeanybody。Andallthroughthepassagetherehewas，firstatthebraces，outermostontheyards，perpetuallylendingahandeverywhere，butalwayswithasoberdignityinhismanner，andasobergrinonhisface，whichplainlysaid，\'Idoitasagentleman。Formyownpleasure，mindyou!\' Atlengthandatlast，thepromisedwindcameupinrightgoodearnest，andawaywewentbeforeit，witheverystitchofcanvasset，slashingthroughthewaternobly。Therewasagrandeurinthemotionofthesplendidship，asovershadowedbyhermassofsails，sherodeatafuriouspaceuponthewaves，whichfilledonewithanindescribablesenseofprideandexultation。Assheplungedintoafoamingvalley，howIlovedtoseethegreenwaves，bordereddeepwithwhite，comerushingonastern，tobuoyherupwardattheirpleasure，andcurlaboutherasshestoopedagain，butalwaysownherfortheirhaughtymistressstill!On，onweflew，withchanginglightsuponthewater，beingnowintheblessedregionoffleecyskies；abrightsunlightingusbyday，andabrightmoonbynight；thevanepointingdirectlyhomeward，alikethetruthfulindextothefavouringwindandtoourcheerfulhearts；untilatsunrise，onefairMondaymorning-thetwenty-seventhofJune，I shallnoteasilyforgettheday-therelaybeforeus，oldCapeClear，Godblessit，showing，inthemistofearlymorning，likeacloud:thebrightestandmostwelcomecloud，tous，thateverhidthefaceofHeaven\'sfallensister-Home。 Dimspeckasitwasinthewideprospect，itmadethesunriseamorecheerfulsight，andgavetoitthatsortofhumaninterestwhichitseemstowantatsea。There，aselsewhere，thereturnofdayisinseparablefromsomesenseofrenewedhopeandgladness； butthelightshiningonthedrearywasteofwater，andshowingitinallitsvastextentofloneliness，presentsasolemnspectacle，whichevennight，veilingitindarknessanduncertainty，doesnotsurpass。Therisingofthemoonismoreinkeepingwiththesolitaryocean；andhasanairofmelancholygrandeur，whichinitssoftandgentleinfluence，seemstocomfortwhileitsaddens。I recollectwhenIwasaveryyoungchildhavingafancythatthereflectionofthemooninwaterwasapathtoHeaven，troddenbythespiritsofgoodpeopleontheirwaytoGod；andthisoldfeelingoftencameovermeagain，whenIwatcheditonatranquilnightatsea。 ThewindwasverylightonthissameMondaymorning，butitwasstillintherightquarter，andso，byslowdegrees，weleftCapeClearbehind，andsailedalongwithinsightofthecoastofIreland。Andhowmerryweallwere，andhowloyaltotheGeorgeWashington，andhowfullofmutualcongratulations，andhowventuresomeinpredictingtheexacthouratwhichweshouldarriveatLiverpool，maybeeasilyimaginedandreadilyunderstood。Also，howheartilywedrankthecaptain\'shealththatdayatdinner；andhowrestlesswebecameaboutpackingup:andhowtwoorthreeofthemostsanguinespiritsrejectedtheideaofgoingtobedatallthatnightassomethingitwasnotworthwhiletodo，soneartheshore，butwentnevertheless，andsleptsoundly；andhowtobesonearourjourney\'send，waslikeapleasantdream，fromwhichonefearedtowake。 Thefriendlybreezefreshenedagainnextday，andonwewentoncemorebeforeitgallantly:descryingnowandthenanEnglishshipgoinghomewardundershortenedsail，whilewe，witheveryinchofcanvascrowdedon，dashedgailypast，andleftherfarbehind。 Towardsevening，theweatherturnedhazy，withadrizzlingrain； andsoonbecamesothick，thatwesailed，asitwere，inacloud。 Stillwesweptonwardlikeaphantomship，andmanyaneagereyeglanceduptowheretheLook-outonthemastkeptwatchforHolyhead。 Atlengthhislong-expectedcrywasheard，andatthesamemomentthereshoneoutfromthehazeandmistahead，agleaminglight，whichpresentlywasgone，andsoonreturned，andsoonwasgoneagain。Wheneveritcameback，theeyesofallonboard，brightenedandsparkledlikeitself:andthereweallstood，watchingthisrevolvinglightupontherockatHolyhead，andpraisingitforitsbrightnessanditsfriendlywarning，andlaudingit，inshort，aboveallothersignallightsthateverweredisplayed，untilitoncemoreglimmeredfaintlyinthedistance，farbehindus。 Then，itwastimetofireagun，forapilot；andalmostbeforeitssmokehadclearedaway，alittleboatwithalightathermastheadcamebearingdownuponus，throughthedarkness，swiftly。Andpresently，oursailsbeingbacked，sheranalongside；andthehoarsepilot，wrappedandmuffledinpea-coatsandshawlstotheverybridgeofhisweather-ploughed-upnose，stoodbodilyamongusonthedeck。AndIthinkifthatpilothadwantedtoborrowfiftypoundsforanindefiniteperiodonnosecurity，weshouldhaveengagedtolendittohim，amongus，beforehisboathaddroppedastern，or(whichisthesamething)beforeeveryscrapofnewsinthepaperhebroughtwithhimhadbecomethecommonpropertyofallonboard。 Weturnedinprettylatethatnight，andturnedoutprettyearlynextmorning。Bysixo\'clockweclusteredonthedeck，preparedtogoashore；andlookeduponthespires，androofs，andsmoke，ofLiverpool。ByeightweallsatdowninoneofitsHotels，toeatanddrinktogetherforthelasttime。Andbyninewehadshakenhandsallround，andbrokenupoursocialcompanyforever。 Thecountry，bytherailroad，seemed，aswerattledthroughit，likealuxuriantgarden。Thebeautyofthefields(sosmalltheylooked!)，thehedge-rows，andthetrees；theprettycottages，thebedsofflowers，theoldchurchyards，theantiquehouses，andeverywell-knownobject；theexquisitedelightsofthatonejourney，crowdingintheshortcompassofasummer\'sday，thejoyofmanyyears，withthewindingupwithHomeandallthatmakesitdear；notonguecantell，orpenofminedescribe。 CHAPTERXVII-SLAVERY THEupholdersofslaveryinAmerica-oftheatrocitiesofwhichsystem，IshallnotwriteonewordforwhichIhavenothadampleproofandwarrant-maybedividedintothreegreatclasses。 Thefirst，arethosemoremoderateandrationalownersofhumancattle，whohavecomeintothepossessionofthemassomanycoinsintheirtradingcapital，butwhoadmitthefrightfulnatureoftheInstitutionintheabstract，andperceivethedangerstosocietywithwhichitisfraught:dangerswhichhoweverdistanttheymaybe，orhowsoevertardyintheircomingon，areascertaintofalluponitsguiltyhead，asistheDayofJudgment。 Thesecond，consistsofallthoseowners，breeders，users，buyersandsellersofslaves，whowill，untilthebloodychapterhasabloodyend，own，breed，use，buy，andsellthematallhazards: whodoggedlydenythehorrorsofthesystemintheteethofsuchamassofevidenceasneverwasbroughttobearonanyothersubject，andtowhichtheexperienceofeverydaycontributesitsimmenseamount；whowouldatthisoranyothermoment，gladlyinvolveAmericainawar，civilorforeign，providedthatithadforitssoleendandobjecttheassertionoftheirrighttoperpetuateslavery，andtowhipandworkandtortureslaves，unquestionedbyanyhumanauthority，andunassailedbyanyhumanpower；who，whentheyspeakofFreedom，meantheFreedomtooppresstheirkind，andtobesavage，merciless，andcruel；andofwhomeverymanonhisownground，inrepublicanAmerica，isamoreexacting，andasterner，andalessresponsibledespotthantheCaliphHarounAlraschidinhisangryrobeofscarlet。 Thethird，andnottheleastnumerousorinfluential，iscomposedofallthatdelicategentilitywhichcannotbearasuperior，andcannotbrookanequal；ofthatclasswhoseRepublicanismmeans，\'I willnottolerateamanaboveme:andofthosebelow，nonemustapproachtoonear；\'whosepride，inalandwherevoluntaryservitudeisshunnedasadisgrace，mustbeministeredtobyslaves；andwhoseinalienablerightscanonlyhavetheirgrowthinnegrowrongs。 Ithasbeensometimesurgedthat，intheunavailingeffortswhichhavebeenmadetoadvancethecauseofHumanFreedomintherepublicofAmerica(strangecauseforhistorytotreatof!)，sufficientregardhasnotbeenhadtotheexistenceofthefirstclassofpersons；andithasbeencontendedthattheyarehardlyused，inbeingconfoundedwiththesecond。Thisis，nodoubt，thecase；nobleinstancesofpecuniaryandpersonalsacrificehavealreadyhadtheirgrowthamongthem；anditismuchtoberegrettedthatthegulfbetweenthemandtheadvocatesofemancipationshouldhavebeenwidenedanddeepenedbyanymeans:therather，asthereare，beyonddispute，amongtheseslave-owners，manykindmasterswhoaretenderintheexerciseoftheirunnaturalpower。Still，itistobefearedthatthisinjusticeisinseparablefromthestateofthingswithwhichhumanityandtrutharecalledupontodeal。 Slaveryisnotawhitthemoreendurablebecausesomeheartsaretobefoundwhichcanpartiallyresistitshardeninginfluences；norcantheindignanttideofhonestwrathstandstill，becauseinitsonwardcourseitoverwhelmsafewwhoarecomparativelyinnocent，amongahostofguilty。 Thegroundmostcommonlytakenbythesebettermenamongtheadvocatesofslavery，isthis:\'Itisabadsystem；andformyselfIwouldwillinglygetridofit，ifIcould；mostwillingly。Butitisnotsobad，asyouinEnglandtakeittobe。Youaredeceivedbytherepresentationsoftheemancipationists。Thegreaterpartofmyslavesaremuchattachedtome。YouwillsaythatIdonotallowthemtobeseverelytreated；butIwillputittoyouwhetheryoubelievethatitcanbeageneralpracticetotreattheminhumanly，whenitwouldimpairtheirvalue，andwouldbeobviouslyagainsttheinterestsoftheirmasters。\' Isittheinterestofanymantosteal，togame，towastehishealthandmentalfacultiesbydrunkenness，tolie，forswearhimself，indulgehatred，seekdesperaterevenge，ordomurder？No。 Alltheseareroadstoruin。Andwhy，then，domentreadthem？ Becausesuchinclinationsareamongtheviciousqualitiesofmankind。Blotout，yefriendsofslavery，fromthecatalogueofhumanpassions，brutallust，cruelty，andtheabuseofirresponsiblepower(ofallearthlytemptationsthemostdifficulttoberesisted)，andwhenyehavedoneso，andnotbefore，wewillinquirewhetheritbetheinterestofamastertolashandmaimtheslaves，overwhoselivesandlimbshehasanabsolutecontrol! Butagain:thisclass，togetherwiththatlastoneIhavenamed，themiserablearistocracyspawnedofafalserepublic，liftuptheirvoicesandexclaim\'Publicopinionisall-sufficienttopreventsuchcrueltyasyoudenounce。\'Publicopinion!Why，publicopinionintheslaveStatesISslavery，isitnot？Publicopinion，intheslaveStates，hasdeliveredtheslavesover，tothegentlemerciesoftheirmasters。Publicopinionhasmadethelaws，anddeniedtheslaveslegislativeprotection。Publicopinionhasknottedthelash，heatedthebranding-iron，loadedtherifle，andshieldedthemurderer。Publicopinionthreatenstheabolitionistwithdeath，ifheventuretotheSouth；anddragshimwitharopeabouthismiddle，inbroadunblushingnoon，throughthefirstcityintheEast。Publicopinionhas，withinafewyears，burnedaslavealiveataslowfireinthecityofSt。Louis；andpublicopinionhastothisdaymaintaineduponthebenchthatestimablejudgewhochargedthejury，impanelledtheretotryhismurderers，thattheirmosthorriddeedwasanactofpublicopinion，andbeingso，mustnotbepunishedbythelawsthepublicsentimenthadmade。