第3章

类别:其他 作者:佚名字数:38555更新时间:18/12/19 15:59:45
Couldn”tgoonthehilltoday。Itsnowed。Italwayssnowshere,I expect。 Don”tyousupposetheyhaveprettymuchquitwriting,athome? Whenyoureceiveyournext1/4yr”ssalary,don”tsendanyofithereuntilafteryouhavetoldmeyouhavegotit。Rememberthis。IamafraidofthatH。andD。 TheyhavestrucktheledgeintheLiveYankeetunnel,andItoldthePresident,Mr。Allen,thatitwasn”tasgoodasthecroppings。Hesaidthatwastrueenough,buttheywouldhangtoituntilitdidproverich。 Heismuchofagentleman,thatmanAllen。 AndaskGasleriewhythedevilhedon”tsendalongmycommissionasDeputySheriff。ThefactofmybeinginCalifornia,andoutofhiscountry,wouldn”tamounttoad——nwithme,intheperformanceofmyofficialduties。 Ihavenothingtoreport,atpresent,exceptthatIshallfindoutallI wanttoknowaboutthislocalitybeforeIleaveit。 HowdotheRecordspay? Yr。Bro。 SAM。 Inoneoftheforegoingletters——theonedatedMay11thereisareferencetothewriter”s“EnterpriseLetters。”Sometimes,duringidledaysinthecamp,theminerhadfollowedoldliteraryimpulsesandwrittenanoccasionalburlesquesketch,whichhehadsigned“Josh,“andsenttotheTerritorialEnterprise,atVirginiaCity—— [OnecontributionwassenttoaKeokukpaper,TheGateCity,andaletterwrittenbyMrs。JaneClemensatthetimewouldindicatethatMarkTwain”smotherdidnotalwaysapproveofherson”sliteraryefforts。Shehopesthathewilldobetter,andsometimewritesomething“thathiskinwillbeproudof。”]——Therough,vigoroushumorofthesehadattractedsomeattention,andOrion,pleasedwithanymeasureofsuccessthatmightcometohisbrother,hadallowedtheauthorshipofthemtobecomeknown。When,inJuly,thefinancialsituationbecamedesperate,theEsmeraldaminerwasmovedtoturntoliteratureforrelief。Butwewilllethimpresentthesituationhimself。 ToOrionClemens,inCarsonCity: ESMERALDA,July23d,1862。 MYDEARBRO。,——No,Idon”townafootinthe“Johnson“ledge——IwilltellthestorysomedayinamoreintelligiblemannerthanTomhastoldit。 Youneedn”ttakethetroubletodenyTom”sversion,though。Iown25 feet(1-16)ofthe1steastex。onit——andJohnsonhimselfhascontractedtofindtheledgefor100feet。Contractsignedyesterday。Butastheledgewillbedifficulttofindheisallowedsixmonthstofinditin。 AneighteenthoftheOphirwasafortunetoJohnD。Winters——andtheOphircan”tbeattheJohnsonany…… MydebtsaregreaterthanIthoughtfor;Ibought$25worthofclothing,andsent$25toHigbie,inthecementdiggings。Ioweabout$45or$5o,andhavegotabout$45inmypocket。Buthowintheh——lIamgoingtoliveonsomethingover$100untilOctoberorNovember,issingular。Thefactis,Imusthavesomethingtodo,andthatshortly,too…… NowwritetotheSacramentoUnionfolks,ortoMarsh,andtellthemI”llwriteasmanylettersaweekastheywant,for$10aweek——myboardmustbepaid。TellthemIhavecorrespondedwiththeN。OrleansCrescent,andotherpapers——andtheEnterprise。Californiaisfullofpeoplewhohaveinterestshere,andit”sd——dseldomtheyhearfromthiscountry。 Ican”twriteaspecimenletter——now,atanyrate——I”dratherundertaketowriteaGreekpoem。Tell”emthemailandexpressleavethreetimesaweek,anditcostsfrom25to50centstosendlettersbytheblastedexpress。Iftheywantlettersfromhere,who”llrunfrommorningtillnightcollectingmaterialscheaper。I”llwriteashortlettertwiceaweek,forthepresent,forthe“Age,“for$5perweek。NowithasbeenalongtimesinceIcouldn”tmakemyownliving,anditshallbealongtimebeforeIloafanotheryear…… IfIgettheother25feetintheJohnsonex。,Ishan”tcaread——n。 I”llbewillingtocurseawhileandwait。AndifIcan”tmovethebowelsofthosehillsthisfall,IwillcomeupandclerkforyouuntilIgetmoneyenoughtogooverthemountainsforthewinter。 Yr。Bro。 SAM。 TheTerritorialEnterpriseatVirginiaCitywasatthistimeownedbyJosephT。Goodman,whohadboughtitontheeveofthegreatComstocksilver-miningboom,andfromastruggling,starvingsheethadconverteditintooneofthemostimportant——certainlythemostpicturesque-papersonthecoast。ThesketcheswhichtheEsmeraldaminerhadwrittenoverthenameof“Josh“fittedintoitexactly,andwhenayoungmannamedBarstow,inthebusinessoffice,urgedGoodmantoinvite“Josh“tojointheirstaff,theEnterpriseownerreadilyfellinwiththeidea。Amongalotofminingmattersofnospecialinterest,Clemens,July3oth,wrotehisbrother:“BarstowhasofferedmethepostaslocalreporterfortheEnterpriseat$25 aweek,andIhavewrittenhimthatIwilllethimknownextmail,ifpossible。” InRoughingItwearetoldthattheminereagerlyacceptedthepropositiontocometoVirginiaCity,buttheletterstelladifferentstory。MarkTwainwasneveronetoabandonanyundertakingeasily。Hisunwillingnesstosurrenderinalostcausewouldcosthimmorethanonefortuneintheyearstocome。Aweekfollowingthedateoftheforegoinghewasstillundecided。 ToOrionClemens,inCarsonCity: ESMERALDA,Aug。7,1862。 MYDEARBRO,——BarstowwrotethatifIwantedtheplaceIcouldhaveit。 IwrotehimthatIguessedIwouldtakeit,andaskedhimhowlongbeforeImustcomeupthere。Ihavenotheardfromhimsince。 Now,Ishallleaveatmid-nighttonight,aloneandonfootforawalkof60or70milesthroughatotallyuninhabitedcountry,anditisbarelypossiblethatmailfacilitiesmayproveinfernally“slow“duringthefewweeksIexpecttospendoutthere。ButdoyouwriteBarstowthatIhavelefthereforaweekorso,andincaseheshouldwantmehemustwritemehere,orletmeknowthroughyou。 TheContractorssaytheywillstriketheFresnonextweek。Afterfoolingwiththoseassayersaweek,theyconcludednottobuy“Mr。Flower“at$50,althoughtheywouldhavegivenfivetimesthesumforitfourmonthsago。SoIhavemadeoutadeedforonehalfofallJohnny”sgroundandacknowledgedandleftinjudgeF。K。Becktel”shands,andifjudgeTurnerwantsithemustwritetoBecktelandpayhimhisNotaryfeeof$1。50。 Iwouldhavepaidthatfeemyself,butIwantmoneynowasIleavetowntonight。However,ifyouthinkitisn”tright,youcanpaythefeetojudgeTurneryourself。 Hangtoyourmoneynow。ImaywantsomewhenIgetback…… Seethatyoukeepoutofdebt-toanybody。BullyforB。!WritehimthatIwouldwritehimmyself,butIamtotakeawalktonightandhaven”ttime。Tellhimtobringhisfamilyoutwithhim。HecanrelyuponwhatIsay——andIsaythelandhaslostitsancientdesolateappearance;theroseandtheoleanderhavetakentheplaceofthedepartedsage-bush;arichblackloam,garnishedwithmoss,andflowers,andthegreenestofgrass,smilestoHeavenfromthevanishedsand-plains;the“endlesssnows“havealldisappeared,andintheirstead,ortorepayusfortheirloss,themountainsreartheirbillowyheadsaloft,crownedwithafadelessandeternalverdure;birds,andfountains,andtrees-tropicalbees——everywhere!——andthepoetdreamtofNevadawhenhewrote: “andSharonwaves,insolemnpraise,Hersilentgrovesofpalm。” andtodaytheroyalRavenlistensinadreamystuportothesongsofthethrushandthenightingaleandthecanary——andshudderswhenthegaudy—— plumagedbirdsofthedistantSouthsweepbyhimtotheorangegrovesofCarson。Tellhimhewouldn”trecognizethed——dcountry。Heshouldbringhisfamilybyallmeans。 Iintendedtowritehome,butIhaven”tdoneit。 Yr。Bro。 SAM。 Inthisletterwerealizethathehadgoneintothewildernesstoreflect——togetaperspectiveonthesituation。Hewasagreatwalkerinthosedays,andsometimeswithHigbie,sometimesalone,madelongexcursions。OnesuchisrecordedinRoughingIt,thetriptoMonoLake。Wehavenomeansofknowingwherehisseventy-miletourledhimnow,butitisclearthathestillhadnotreachedadecisiononhisreturn。Indeed,wegatherthatheisinclinedtokeepupthebattleamongthebarrenEsmeraldahills。 Lastminingletter;writtentoMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: ESMERALDA,CAL。,Aug。15,1862。 MYDEARSISTER,-ImailedalettertoyouandMathismorning,butsincethenIhavereceivedyourstoOrionandme。Therefore,Imustanswerrightaway,elseImayleavetownwithoutdoingitatall。Whatinthunderarepilot”swagestome?whichquestion,Ibeghumblytoobserve,isofageneralnature,andnotdischargedparticularlyatyou。Butitissingular,isn”tit,thatsuchamattershouldinterestOrion,whenitisofnoearthlyconsequencetome?Ineverhaveoncethoughtofreturninghometogoontheriveragain,andIneverexpecttodoanymorepilotingatanyprice。Mylivelihoodmustbemadeinthiscountry—— andifIhavetowaitlongerthanIexpected,letitbeso——Ihavenofearoffailure。YouknowIhaveextravaganthopes,forOriontellsyoueverythingwhichheoughttokeeptohimself——butit”shisnaturetodothatsortofthing,andIlethimalone。Ididthinkforawhileofgoinghomethisfall——butwhenIfoundthatthatwasandhadbeenthecherishedintentionandthedarlingaspirationeveryyear,oftheseoldcare-wornCaliforniansfortwelvewearyyears——Ifeltalittleuncomfortable,butIstoleamarchonDisappointmentandsaidIwouldnotgohomethisfall。 IwillspendthewinterinSanFrancisco,ifpossible。DonottellanyonethatIhadanyideaofpilotingagainatpresent——foritisallamistake。Thiscountrysuitsme,and——itshallsuitme,whetherorno…… DanTwingandIandDan”sdog,“cabin“together——andwillcontinuetodosoforawhile——untilIleavefor—— Themansionis10x12,witha“domestic“roof。Yesterdayitrained——thefirstshowerforfivemonths。“Domestic,“itappearstome,isnotwater-proof。Wewentoutsidetokeepfromgettingwet。Danmakesthebedwhenitishisturntodoit——andwhenitismyturn,Idon”t,youknow。Thedogisnotagoodhunter,andheisn”tworthshuckstowatch—— buthescratchesupthedirtfloorofthecabin,andcatchesflies,andmakeshimselfgenerallyusefulinthewayofwashingdishes。Dangetsupfirstinthemorningandmakesafire——andIgetuplastandsitbyit,whilehecooksbreakfast。Wehaveacoldlunchatnoon,andIcooksupper——verymuchagainstmywill。However,onemusthaveonegoodmealaday,andifIweretoliveonDan”sabominablecookery,Ishouldlosemyappetite,youknow。DanattendedDr。Chorpenning”sfuneralyesterday,andhefeltasthoughheoughttowearawhiteshirt——andwehadajollygoodtimefindingsuchanarticle。Weturnedoverallourtraps,andhefoundoneatlast——butIshallalwaysthinkitwassufferingfromyellowfever。Healsofoundanoldblackcoat,greasy,andwrinkledtothatdegreethatitappearedtohavebeenquiltedatsometimeorother。Inthisgorgeouscostumeheattendedthefuneral。Andwhenhereturned,hisowndogdrovehimawayfromthecabin,notrecognizinghim。Thisistrue。 Youwouldnotliketoliveinacountrywhereflourwas$40abarrel? Verywell;then,Isupposeyouwouldnotliketolivehere,whereflourwas$100abarrelwhenIfirstcamehere。Andshortlyafterwards,itcouldn”tbehadatanyprice——andforonemonththepeoplelivedonbarley,beansandbeef——andnothingbeside。Oh,no——wedidn”tluxuriatethen!Perhapsnot。Butwesaidwiseandseverethingsaboutthevanityandwickednessofhighliving。Wepreachedourdoctrineandpractisedit。WhichcourseIrespectfullyrecommendtotheclergymenofSt。Louis。 WhereisBeackJolly?——[apilot]——andBixby? YourBrotherSAM。 IV LETTERS1863-64。“MARKTWAIN。”COMSTOCKJOURNALISM。ARTEMUSWARD Thereisalonghiatusinthecorrespondencehere。Foraspaceofmanymonthsthereisbutonelettertocontinuethestory。Otherswerewritten,ofcourse,butforsomereasontheyhavenotsurvived。ItwasabouttheendofAugust(1862)whentheminerfinallyabandonedthestruggle,andwithhispackonhisshoulderswalkedtheoneandthirtymilesoverthemountainstoVirginiaCity,arrivingdusty,lame,andtravel-stainedtoclaimatlasthisrightfulinheritance。AttheEnterpriseofficehewaswelcomed,andinabrieftimeenteredintohisown。Goodman,theproprietor,himselfamanofgreatability,hadsurroundedhimselfwithagroupofgay-heartedfellows,whosefresh,wildwayofwritingdelightedtheComstockpioneersfarmorethananysoberpresentationofmerenews。SamuelClemensfittedexactlyintothisgroup。Bytheendoftheyearhehadbecomealeaderofit。WhenheaskedtobeallowedtoreportthecomingCarsonlegislature,Goodmanconsented,realizingthatwhileClemensknewnothingofparliamentaryprocedure,hewouldatleastmaketheletterspicturesque。 Itwasinthemidstofthisworkthatheadoptedthenamewhichhewastomakefamousthroughouttheworld。Thestoryofitsadoptionhasbeenfullytoldelsewhereandneednotberepeatedhere——[SeeMarkTwain:A Biography,bythesameauthor;ChapterXL。] “MarkTwain“wasfirstsignedtoaCarsonletter,February2,1863,andfromthattimewasattachedtoallofSamuelClemens”swork。Thelettershadalreadybeenwidelycopied,andthenamenowwhichgavethempersonalityquicklyobtainedvogue。Itwasattachedtohimselfaswellastotheletters;heretoforehehadbeencalledSamorClemens,nowhebecamealmostuniversallyMarkTwainandMark。 ThisearlyperiodofMarkTwain”sjournalismisfullofdelicioushistory,butwearepermittedheretoretellonlysuchofitaswillsupplyconnectiontotheinfrequentletters。HewrotehomebrieflyinFebruary,butthelettercontainednothingworthpreserving。Thentwomonthslaterhegivesusatleastahintofhisemployment。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: VIRGINIA,April11,1863。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Itisverylateatnight,andIamwritinginmyroom,whichisnotquiteaslargeorasniceastheoneIhadathome。Myboard,washingandlodgingcostmeseventy-fivedollarsamonth。 Ihavejustreceivedyourletter,Ma,fromCarson——theoneinwhichyoudoubtmyveracityaboutthestatementsImadeinalettertoyou。That”sright。Idon”trecollectwhatthestatementswere,butIsupposetheywereminingstatistics。Ihavejustfinishedwritingupmyreportforthemorningpaper,andgivingtheUnreliableacolumnofadviceabouthowtoconducthimselfinchurch,andnowIwilltellyouafewmorelies,whilemyhandisin。Forinstance,someoftheboysmademeapresentoffiftyfeetintheEastIndiaG。andS。M。Companytendaysago。Iwasofferedninety-fivedollarsafootforit,yesterday,ingold。Irefusedit——notbecauseIthinktheclaimisworthacentforIdon”tbutbecauseIhadacuriositytoseehowhighitwouldgo,beforepeoplefindouthowworthlessitis。Besides,whatifoneminingclaimdoesfoolme?Ihavegotplentymore。Iamnotinaparticularhurrytogetrich。IsupposeIcouldn”twellhelpgettingrichheresometimeorother,whetherI wantedtoornot。YoufolksdonotbelieveinNevada,andIamgladyoudon”t。Justkeeponthinkingso。 IwasattheGouldandCurrymine,theotherday,andtheyhadtwoorthreetonsofchoicerockpiledup,whichwasvaluedat$20,000aton。 Igatheredupahat-fullofchunks,onaccountoftheirbeautyasspecimens——theydon”tleteverybodysupplythemselvessoliberally。I sendMr。Moffettalittlespecimenofitforhiscabinet。Ifyoudon”tknowwhatthewhitestuffonitis,Imustinformyouthatitispurersilverthanthemintedcoin。Thereisaboutasmuchgoldinitasthereissilver,butitisnotvisible。Iwillexplaintoyousomedayhowtodetectit。 Pamela,youwouldn”tdoforalocalreporter——becauseyoudon”tappreciatetheinterestthatattachestonames。Anitemisofnouseunlessitspeaksofsomeperson,andnotthen,unlessthatperson”snameisdistinctlymentioned。Themostinterestingletteronecanwrite,toanabsentfriend,isonethattreatsofpersonshehasbeenacquaintedwithratherthanthepubliceventsoftheday。NowyouspeakofayoungladywhowrotetoHollieBensonthatshehadseenme;andyoudidn”tmentionhername。ItwasjustamerechancethatIeverguessedwhoshewas——butIdid,finally,thoughIdon”trememberhername,now。IwasintroducedtoherinSanFranciscobyHon。A。B。Paul,andsawherafterwardsinGoldHill。Theywereaverypleasantlotofgirls——sheandhersisters。 P。S。Ihavejustheardfivepistolshotsdownstreet——assuchthingsareinmyline,Iwillgoandseeaboutit。 P。S。No2——5A。M——Thepistoldiditsworkwell——oneman——aJacksonCountyMissourian,shottwoofmyfriends,(policeofficers,)throughtheheart——bothdiedwithinthreeminutes。Murderer”snameisJohnCampbell。 The“Unreliable“ofthisletterwasarivalreporteronwhomMarkTwainhadconferredthisnameduringthelegislativesession。HisrealnamewasRice,andhehadundertakentocriticizeClemens”sreports。ThebriskreplythatRice”slettersconcealedwithashowofparliamentaryknowledgea“festeringmassofmisstatementstheauthorofwhomshouldbeproperlytermedthe”Unreliable,“fixedthatnameuponhimforlife。Thisburlesquewarfaredelightedthefrontieranditdidnotinterferewithfriendship。ClemensandRicewereconstantassociates,thoughcontinuallyfiringsquibsateachotherintheirrespectivepapers——aformofpersonaljournalismmuchinvogueontheComstock。 Inthenextletterwefindthesetwojournalistic“blades“enjoyingthemselvestogetherinthecoastmetropolis。Thisletterislabeled“No。2,“meaning,probably,thesecondfromSanFrancisco,butNo。1 hasdisappeared,andevenNo,2isincomplete。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: No。2——($20。00Enclosed) LICKHOUSE,S。F。,June1,”63。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——TheUnreliableandmyselfarestillhere,andstillenjoyingourselves。IsupposeIknowatleastathousandpeoplehere——a,greatmanyofthemcitizensofSanFrancisco,butthemajoritybelonginginWashoe——andwhenIgodownMontgomerystreet,shakinghandswithTom,DickandHarry,itisjustlikebeinginMainstreetinHannibalandmeetingtheoldfamiliarfaces。IdohatetogobacktoWashoe。Wefagourselvescompletelyouteveryday,andgotosleepwithoutrocking,everynight。Wedineoutandwelunchout,andweeat,drinkandarehappy——asitwere。Afterbreakfast,Idon”toftenseethehotelagainuntilmidnight——orafter。IamgoingtotheDickensmightyfast。Iknowaregularvillageoffamilieshereinthehouse,butIneverhavetimetocallonthem。Thunder!we”llknowalittlemoreaboutthistown,beforeweleave,thansomeofthepeoplewholiveinit。 WetaketripsacrosstheBaytoOakland,anddowntoSanLeandro,andAlameda,andthoseplaces;andwegoouttotheWillows,andHayesPark,andFortPoint,anduptoBenicia;andyesterdaywewereinvitedoutonayachtingexcursion,andhadasailinthefastestyachtonthePacificCoast。Ricesays:“Oh,no——wearenothavinganyfun,Mark——Oh,no,I reckonnot——it”ssomebodyelse——it”sprobablythe”gentlemaninthewagon”!“(popularslangphrase。)WhenIinviteRicetotheLickHousetodinner,theproprietorssenduschampagneandclaret,andthenwedoputonthemostdisgustingairs。Ricesaysourcalibreistoolight——wecan”tstandittobenoticed! IrodedownwithagentlemantotheOceanHouse,theotherday,toseetheseahorses,andalsotolistentotheroarofthesurf,andwatchtheshipsdriftingabout,here,andthere,andfarawayatsea。WhenIstoodonthebeachandletthesurfwetmyfeet,IrecollecteddoingthesamethingontheshoresoftheAtlantic——andthenIhadaproperappreciationofthevastnessofthiscountry——forIhadtraveledfromoceantooceanacrossit。 Remaindermissing。) NotfarfromVirginiaCitytherearesomewarmspringsthatconstantlysendupjetsofsteamthroughfissuresinthemountainside。Theplacewasahealthresort,andClemens,alwayssubjecttobronchialcolds,nowandagainretiredthereforacure。 Aletterwritteninthelatesummer——agay,youthfuldocument—— belongstooneoftheseperiodsofconvalescence。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: No。12——$20enclosed。 STEAMBOATSPRINGS,August19,”63。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Ma,youhavegivenmyvanityadeadlythrust。 Behold,Iampronetoboastofhavingthewidestreputation,asalocaleditor,ofanymanonthePacificcoast,andyougravelycomeforwardandtellme“ifIworkhardandattendcloselytomybusiness,ImayaspiretoaplaceonabigSanFranciscodaily,someday。”There”sacommentonhumanvanityforyou!Why,blastit,IwasundertheimpressionthatI couldgetsuchasituationasthatanytimeIaskedforit。ButIdon”twantit。NopaperintheUnitedStatescanaffordtopaymewhatmyplaceonthe“Enterprise“isworth。IfIwerenotnaturallyalazy,idle,good-for-nothingvagabond,Icouldmakeitpayme$20,000ayear。 ButIdon”tsupposeIshalleverbeanyaccount。Ileadaneasylife,though,andIdon”tcareacentwhetherschoolkeepsornot。Everybodyknowsme,andIfarelikeaprincewhereverIgo,beitonthissideofthemountainsortheother。AndIamproudtosayIamthemostconceitedassintheTerritory。 Youthinkthatpicturelooksold?Well,Ican”thelpit——inrealityIamnotasoldasIwaswhenIwaseighteen。 Itookadesperatecoldmorethanaweekago,andIseducedWilson(aMissouriboy,reporteroftheDailyUnion,)fromhislabors,andwewentovertoLakeBigler。ButIfailedtocuremycold。Ifoundthe“LakeHouse“crowdedwiththewealthandfashionofVirginia,andIcouldnotresistthetemptationtotakeahandinallthefungoing。ThoseVirginians——menandwomenboth——areastirringset,andIfoundifIwentwiththemonalltheireternalexcursions,Ishouldbringtheconsumptionhomewithme——soIleft,daybeforeyesterday,andcamebackintotheTerritoryagain。AlotofthemhadpurchasedasiteforatownontheLakeshore,andtheygavemealot。Whenyoucomeout,I”llbuildyouahouseonit。TheLakeseemsmoresupernaturallybeautifulnow,thanever。ItisthemasterpieceoftheCreation。 ThehotelhereattheSpringsisnotsomuchcrowdedasusual,andIamhavingaverycomfortabletimeofit。Thehot,whitesteampuffsupoutoffissuresintheearthlikethejetsthatcomefromasteam-boat”s”scapepipes,anditmakesaboiling,surgingnoiselikeasteam-boat,too-hencethename。Weputeggsinahandkerchiefanddiptheminthesprings——they“softboil“in2Minutes,andboilashardasarockin4minutes。Thesefissuresextendmorethanaquarterofamile,andthelonglineofsteamcolumnslooksverypretty。Alargebathhouseisbuiltoveroneofthesprings,andwegoinitandsteamourselvesaslongaswecanstandit,andthencomeoutandtakeacoldshowerbath。 Yougetbaths,boardandlodging,allfor$25aweek——cheaperthanlivinginVirginiawithoutbaths…… YrsaftMARK。 Itwasnowtheautumnof1863。MarkTwainwastwenty-eightyearsold。OntheCoasthehadestablishedareputationasagailyoriginalnewspaperwriter。Thusfar,however,hehadabsolutelynoliterarystanding,noristhereanyevidencethathehadliteraryambitions;hisworkwasunformed,uncultivated——allofwhichseemsstrange,now,whenwerealizethatsomewherebehindlaythesubstanceofimmortality。RudyardKiplingattwenty-eighthaddonehisgreatestwork。 EvenJosephGoodman,whohadafineliteraryperceptionandadeepknowledgeofmen,intimatelyassociatedwithMarkTwainashewas,receivedatthistimenohintofhisgreaterpowers。AnothermanonthestaffoftheEnterprise,WilliamWright,whocalledhimself“DandeQuille,“agracefulhumorist,gavefarmorepromise,Goodmanthought,offuturedistinction。 ItwasArtemusWardwhofirstsuspectedthevalueofMarkTwain”sgifts,andurgedhimtosomemoreimportantuseofthem。Artemusinthecourseofatranscontinentallecturetour,stoppedinVirginiaCity,andnaturallyfoundcongenialsocietyontheEnterprisestaff。 Hehadintendedremainingbutafewdays,butlingeredthreeweeks,aperiodofcontinuouscelebration,closingonlywiththeholidayseason。Duringonenightoffinalfestivities,Wardslippedawayandgaveaperformanceonhisownaccount。HislettertoMarkTwain,fromAustin,Nevada,writtenadayortwolater,ismostcharacteristic。 ArtemusWard”slettertoMarkTwain: AUSTIN,Jan。1,”64。 MYDEARESTLOVE,——Iarrivedhereyesterdaya。m。at2o”clock。Itisawild,untamableplace,fulloflionheartedboys。Ispeaktonight。Seesmallbills。 Whydidyounotgowithmeandsavemethatnight?——ImeanthenightI leftyouafterthatdinnerparty。Iwentandgotdrunker,beating,Imaysay,AlexandertheGreat,inhismostdrinkinistdays,andIblackenedmyfaceattheMelodeon,andmadeagibbering,idioticspeech。God-damit! IsupposetheUnionwillhaveit。Butletitgo。IshallalwaysrememberVirginiaasabrightspotinmyexistence,asallothersmustorrathercannotbe,asitwere。 LovetoJo。GoodmanandDan。Ishallwritesoon,apowerfullyconvincingnotetomyfriendsof“TheMercury。”Yournotice,bytheway,didmuchgoodhere,asitdoubtlesslywillelsewhere。ThemiscreantsoftheUnionwillbebattedinthesnoutiftheyeverdarepollutethisrapidlyrisingcitywiththeirloathsomepresence。 Someofthefinestintellectsintheworldhavebeenbluntedbyliquor。 Donot,sir——donotflatteryourselfthatyouaretheonlychastely- humorouswriterontothePacificslopes。 Good-bye,oldboy——andGodblessyou!ThematterofwhichIspoketoyousoearnestlyshallbejustasearnestlyattendedto——andagainwithverymanywarmregardsforJo。andDan。,andregardstomanyofthegoodfriendswemet。 IamFaithfully,gratefullyyours,ARTEMUSWARD。 TheUnionwhichWardmentionswastherivalVirginia。Citypaper; theMercurywastheNewYorkSundayMercury,towhichhehadurgedMarkTwaintocontribute。Wardwroteasecondletter,afterasiegeofillnessatSaltLakeCity。Hewasafrailcreature,andthreeyearslater,inLondon,diedofconsumption。HisgeniusandencouragementundoubtedlyexertedaninfluenceuponMarkTwain。 Ward”ssecondletterherefollows。 ArtemusWardtoS。L。Clemens: SALTLAKECITY,Jan。21,”64。 MYDEARMARK,——Ihavebeendangerouslyillforthepasttwoweekshere,ofcongestivefever。Verygravefearswereforatimeentertainedofmyrecovery,buthappilythemaladyisgone,thoughleavingmevery,veryweak。Ihopetobeabletoresumemyjourneyinaweekorso。IthinkIshallspeakintheTheaterhere,whichisoneofthefinestestablishmentsofthekindinAmerica。 TheSaintshavebeenwonderfullykindtome,Icouldnothavebeenbetterormoretenderlynursedathome——Godblessthem! Iamstillexceedinglyweak——can”twriteanymore。LovetoJoandDan,andalltherest。WritemeatSt。Louis。 Alwaysyours,ARTEMUSWARD。 IfonecouldonlyhaveMarkTwain”slettersinreplytothese!buttheyhavevanishedandareprobablylongsincedust。AletterwhichhewrotetohismotherassuresusthatheundertooktofollowWard”sadvice。Hewasnotready,however,forseriousliteraryeffort。 Thearticle,senttotheMercury,wasdistinctlyoftheComstockvariety;itwasaccepted,butitapparentlymadenoimpression,andhedidnotfollowitup。 Foronething,hewasjustthentoobusyreportingtheLegislatureatCarsonCityandrespondingtosocialdemands。FromhavingbeenascarcelyconsideredunitduringtheearlydaysofhisarrivalinCarsonMarkTwainhadattainedahighdegreeofimportanceinthelittleNevadacapital。IntheLegislaturehewasapower;ascorrespondentfortheEnterprisehewasfearedandrespectedaswellasadmired。Hishumor,hissatire,andhisfearlessnessweredreadedweapons。 Also,hewasofextraordinarypopularity。Orion”swife,withherlittledaughter,Jennie,hadcomeoutfromtheStates。TheGovernorofNevadahadnohouseholdinCarsonCity,andwasgenerallyabsent。 OrionClemensreignedinhisstead,andindeedwasusuallyaddressedas“Governor“Clemens。Hishomebecamethesocialcenterofthecapital,andhisbrilliantbrotheritschiefornament。Fromtheroughestofminersofayearbeforehehadbecome,oncemore,almostadandyindress,andnooccasionwascompletewithouthim。WhenthetwoHousesoftheLegislatureassembled,inJanuary,1864,aburlesqueThirdHousewasorganizedandproposedtoholdasession,asachurchbenefit。AfterverybriefconsiderationitwasdecidedtoselectMarkTwaintopresideatthisThirdHouseassemblyunderthetitleof“Governor,“andaletterofinvitationwasaddressedtohim。Hisreplytoitfollows: ToS。PixleyandG。A。Sears,Trustees: CARSONCITY,January23,r86? GENTLEMEN,Certainly。Ifthepubliccanfindanythinginagravestatepaperworthpayingadollarfor,Iamwillingthattheyshouldpaythatamount,oranyother;andalthoughIamnotaverydustyChristianmyself,Itakeanabsorbinginterestinreligiousaffairs,andwouldwillinglyinflictmyannualmessageupontheChurchitselfifitmightderivebenefitthereby。Youcanchargewhatyouplease;Ipromisethepublicnoamusement,butIdopromiseareasonableamountofinstruction。 IamresponsibletotheThirdHouseonly,andIhopetobepermittedtomakeitexceedinglywarmforthatbody,withoutcaringwhetherthesympathiesofthepublicandtheChurchbeenlistedintheirfavor,andagainstmyself,ornot。 Respectfully,MARKTWAIN。 ThereisaqualityinthislettermoresuggestiveofthelaterMarkTwainthananythingthathasprecededit。HisThirdHouseaddress,unfortunately,hasnotbeenpreserved,butthosewhohearditregardeditasaclassic。Itprobablyaboundedinhumorofthefrontiersort-unsparingridiculeoftheGovernor,theLegislature,andindividualcitizens。Itwasalltakeningoodpart,ofcourse,andasarecognitionofhissuccesshereceivedagoldwatch,withthecaseproperlyinscribedto“TheGovernoroftheThirdHouse。” Thiswasreallyhisfirstpublicappearanceinafieldinwhichhewasdestinedtoachieveverygreatfame。 V LETTERS1864-66。SANFRANCISCOANDHAWAII LifeontheComstockcametoanendforMarkTwaininMay,1864。ItwasthetimeofTheFlourSackSanitaryFund,thestoryofwhichhehastoldinRoughingIt。Hedoesnot,however,refertothetroubleswhichthisspecialfundbroughtuponhimself。ComingintotheEnterpriseofficeonenight,afteragaydayof“Fund“ celebration,Clemenswrote,fornextday”spaper,aparagraphintendedtobemerelyplayful,butwhichprovedhighlyoffendingtocertainladiesconcernedwiththeflour-sackenterprise。Nofilesofthepaperexisttoday,sowecannotjudgeofthequalityofhumorthatstirreduptrouble。 Thetrouble,however,wasgenuineenough,Virginia”srivalpaperseizeduponthechancetohumiliateitsenemy,andpresentlywordswerepassedbackandforthuntilnothingwaslefttowritebutachallenge。Thestoryofthisduel,whichdidnotcomeoff,hasbeenquitefullytoldelsewhere,bothbyMarkTwainandthepresentwriter;butthefollowingletter——arevelationofhisinnerfeelingsinthematterofhisoffense——hasneverbeforebeenpublished。 ToMrs。Cutler,inCarsonCity: VIRGINIA,May23rd,1864。 MRS。W。K。CUTLER: MADAM,——Iaddressaladyineverysenseoftheterm。Mrs。ClemenshasinformedmeofeverythingthathasoccurredinCarsoninconnectionwiththatunfortunateitemofmineabouttheSanitaryFundsaccruingfromtheball,andfromwhatIcanunderstand,youarealmosttheonlyladyinyourcitywhohasunderstoodthecircumstancesunderwhichmyfaultwascommitted,orwhohasshownanydispositiontobelenientwithme。Hadthenoteoftheladiesbeenproperlyworded,Iwouldhavepublishedanampleapologyinstantly——andpossiblyImightevenhavedonesoanyhow,hadthatnotearrivedatanyothertime——butitcameatamomentwhenI wasinthemidstofwhatoughttohavebeenadeadlyquarrelwiththepublishersoftheUnion,andIcouldnotcomeoutandmakepublicapologiestoanyoneatsuchatime。Itisbadpolicytodoitevennow(aschallengeshavealreadypassedbetweenmyselfandaproprietoroftheUnion,andthematterisstillinabeyance,)butIsupposeIhadbettersayawordortwotoshowtheladiesthatIdidnotwilfullyandmaliciouslydothemawrong。 Butmychiefobject,Mrs。Cutler,inwritingyouthisnote(andyouwillpardonthelibertyIhavetaken,)wastothankyouverykindlyandsincerelyfortheconsiderationyouhaveshownmeinthismatter,andforyourcontinuedfriendshipforMolliewhileothersaredisposedtowithdrawtheirsonaccountofafaultforwhichIaloneamresponsible。 Verytrulyyours,SAM。L。CLEMENS。 Thematterdidnotendwiththefailureoftheduel。Averystrictlawhadjustbeenpassed,makingitafelonyeventosendoracceptachallenge。Clemens,onthewhole,rathertiredofVirginiaCityandCarson,thoughtitagoodtimetogoacrossthemountainstoSanFrancisco。WithSteveGillis,aprinter,ofwhomhewasveryfond—— aninveteratejoker,whohadbeenmorethanhalfresponsiblefortheproposedduel,andwastohaveservedashissecond——hetookthestageonemorning,andinduetimewasintheCaliforniametropolis,atworkontheMorningCall。 ClemenshadbeenseveraltimesinSanFrancisco,andlovedtheplace。Wehavenoletterofthatsummer,thefirstbeingdatedseveralmonthsafterhisarrival。HewasstillworkingontheCallwhenitwaswritten,andcontributingliteraryarticlestotheCalifornian,ofwhichBretHarte,unknowntofame,waseditor。 HartehadhisofficejustabovetheroomsoftheCall,andheandClemensweregoodfriends。SanFranciscohadarealliterarygroupthat,foratimeatleast,centeredaroundtheofficesoftheGoldenEra。InaletterthatfollowsClemenswouldseemtohavescornedthispublication,buthewasafrequentcontributortoitatoneperiod。JoaquinMillerwasofthisbandofliterarypioneers;alsoPrenticeMulford,CharlesWarrenStoddard,FitzhughLudlow,andOrpheusC。Kerr。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: Sept。25,1864。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Youcanseebymypicturethatthissuperbclimateagreeswithme。Anditought,afterlivingwhereIwasneveroutofsightofsnowpeakstwenty-fourhoursduringthreeyears。Herewehaveneithersnownorcoldweather;firesareneverlighted,andyetsummerclothesareneverworn——youwearspringclothingtheyearround。 SteveGillis,whohasbeenmycomradefortwoyears,andwhocamedownherewithme,istobemarried,inaweekortwo,toaveryprettygirlworth$130,000inherownright——andthenIshallbealoneagain,untiltheybuildahouse,whichtheywilldoshortly。 Wehavebeenhereonlyfourmonths,yetwehavechangedourlodgingsfivetimes,andourhoteltwice。Weareverycomfortablyfixedwhereweare,now,andhavenofaulttofindwiththeroomsorwiththepeople——wearetheonlylodgersinawell-to-doprivatefamily,withonegrowndaughterandapianointheparloradjoiningourroom。ButIneedachange,andmustmoveagain。Ihavetakenroomsfurtherdownthestreet。Ishallstayinthislittlequietstreet,becauseitisfullofgardensandshrubbery,andtherearenonebutdwellinghousesinit。 Iamtakinglifeeasy,now,andImeantokeepitupforawhile。Idon”tworkatnightanymore。Itoldthe“Call“folkstopayme$25aweekandletmeworkonlyindaylight。SoIgetupatteneverymorning,andquitworkatfiveorsixintheafternoon。YouaskifIworkforgreenbacks? Hardly。WhatdoyousupposeIcoulddowithgreenbackshere? Ihaveengagedtowriteforthenewliterarypaper——the“Californian“—— samepayIusedtoreceiveonthe“GoldenEra“——onearticleaweek,fiftydollarsamonth。Iquitthe“Era,“longago。Itwasn”thigh-tonedenough。The“Californian“circulatesamongthehighestclassofthecommunity,andisthebestweeklyliterarypaperintheUnitedStates——andIsupposeIoughttoknow。 IworkasIalwaysdid——byfitsandstarts。IwrotetwoarticleslastnightfortheCalifornian,sothatletsmeoutfortwoweeks。Thatwouldbeaboutseventy-fivedollars,ingreenbacks,wouldn”tit? BeendowntoSanJose(generallypronouncedSannozay-emphasisonlastsyllable)-todayfiftymilesfromhere,byrailroad。Townof6,000 inhabitants,buriedinflowersandshrubbery。Theclimateisfinerthanourshere,becauseitisnotsoclosetotheocean,andisprotectedfromthewindsbythecoastrange。 Ihadaninvitationtoday,togodownonanexcursiontoSanLuisObispo,andfromthencetothecityofMexico,tobegonesixoreightweeks,orpossiblylonger,butIcouldnotaccept,onaccountofmycontracttoactaschiefmournerorgroomsmanatSteve”swedding。 Ihavetriumphed。TheyrefusedmeandotherreporterssomeinformationatabranchoftheCoroner”soffice——Massey”sundertakerestablishment,afewweeksago。IpublishedthewickedestarticleonthemIeverwroteinmylife,andyoucanrestassuredwegotalltheinformationwewantedafterthat。 Bythenewcensus,SanFranciscohasapopulationof130,000。Theydon”tcountthehordesofChinamen。 Yrsaftly,SAM。 IsendapictureforAnnie,andoneforAuntElla——thatis,ifshewillhaveit。 RelationswiththeCallceasedbeforetheendoftheyear,thoughnotinthemannerdescribedinRoughingIt。MarkTwainlovedtomakefictionofhismishaps,andtoshowhimselfalwaysinabadlight。Asamatteroffact,helefttheCallwithgreatwillingness,andbeganimmediatelycontributingadailylettertotheEnterprise,whichbroughthimasatisfactoryfinancialreturn。 Inthebiographicalsketchwithwhichthisvolumeopens,andmoreextendedlyelsewhere,hasbeentoldthestoryofthetroublegrowingoutoftheEnterpriseletters,andofMarkTwain”ssojournwithJamesGillisintheTuolumneHills。Alsohow,inthefrowsyhotelatAngel”sCamp,heheardthefroganecdotethatwouldbecomethecorner-stoneofhisfame。Therearenolettersofthisperiod——onlysomenote-bookentries。Itisprobablethathedidnotwritehome,believing,nodoubt,thathehadverylittletosay。 Formorethanayearthereisnotalinethathassurvived。Yetithadbeenanimportantyear;thejumpingfrogstory,publishedinNewYork,hadbeenreprintedEastandWest,andlaughedoverinatleastamillionhomes。Famehadnotcometohim,butitwasontheway。 Yethisoutlookseemsnottohavebeenahopefulone。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: SANFRANCISCO,Jan。20,1866。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Idonotknowwhattowrite;mylifeissouneventful。IwishIwasbacktherepilotingupanddowntheriveragain。Verily,allisvanityandlittleworth——savepiloting。 Tothinkthat,afterwritingmanyanarticleamanmightbeexcusedforthinkingtolerablygood,thoseNewYorkpeopleshouldsingleoutavillainousbackwoodssketchtocomplimentmeon!“JimSmileyandHisJumpingFrog“——asquibwhichwouldneverhavebeenwrittenbuttopleaseArtemusWard,andthenitreachedNewYorktoolatetoappearinhisbook。 Butnomatter。Hisbookwasawretchedlypoorone,generallyspeaking,anditcouldbenocredittoeitherofustoappearbetweenitscovers。 ThisparagraphisfromtheNewYorkcorrespondenceoftheSanFranciscoAlta: (Clippingpastedin。) “MarkTwain”sstoryintheSaturdayPressofNovemberi8th,called”JimSmileyandHisJumpingFrog”hassetallNewYorkinaroar,andhemaybesaidtohavemadehismark。Ihavebeenaskedfiftytimesaboutitanditsauthor,andthepapersarecopyingitfarandnear。Itisvotedthebestthingoftheday。CannottheCalifornianaffordtokeepMarkalltoitself?ItshouldnotlethimscintillatesowidelywithoutfirstbeingfilteredthroughtheCaliforniapress。” TheNewYorkpublishinghouseofCarleton&Co。gavethesketchtotheSaturdayPresswhentheyfounditwastoolateforthebook。 ThoughIamgenerallyplacedattheheadofmybreedofscribblersinthispartofthecountry,theplaceproperlybelongstoBretHarte,Ithink,thoughhedeniesit,alongwiththerest。Hewantsmetoclubalotofoldsketchestogetherwithalotofhis,andpublishabook。 Iwouldn”tdoit,onlyheagreestotakeallthetrouble。ButIwanttoknowwhetherwearegoingtomakeanythingoutofit,first。However,hehaswrittentoaNewYorkpublisher,andifweareofferedabargainthatwillpayforamonth”slaborwewillgotoworkandpreparethevolumeforthepress。 Yoursaffy,SAM。 BretHarteandClemenshadbythistimequittheCalifornian,expectingtocontributetoEasternperiodicals。Clemens,however,wasnotyetthroughwithCoastjournalism。TherewasmuchinterestjustatthistimeintheSandwichIslands,andhewasselectedbytheforemostSacramentopapertospyouttheislandsandreportaspectsandconditionsthere。Hislettershomewerestillinfrequent,butthiswassomethingworthwriting。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: SANFRANCISCO,March5th,1866。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——IstarttodoSandwichIslandsdayaftertomorrow,(IsupposeAnnieisgeographerenoughbythistimetofindthemonthemap),inthesteamer“Ajax。”Weshallarrivethereinabouttwelvedays。MyfriendsseemdeterminedthatIshallnotlackacquaintances,forIonlydecidedtodaytogo,andtheyhavealreadysentmelettersofintroductiontoeverybodydownthereworthknowing。Iamtoremainthereamonthandransacktheislands,thegreatcataractsandthevolcanoescompletely,andwritetwentyorthirtyletterstotheSacramentoUnion——forwhichtheypaymeasmuchmoneyasIwouldgetifI staidathome。 IfIcomebackhereIexpecttostartstraightacrossthecontinentbywayoftheColumbiariver,thePendd”OreilleLakes,throughMontanaanddowntheMissouririver,——only200milesoflandtravelfromSanFranciscotoNewOrleans。 Goodbyeforthepresent。 Yours,SAM。 Hishomelettersfromtheislandsarenumerousenough;everythingtherebeingsonewandsodelightfulthathefoundjoyintellingofit;also,hewasstillyoungenoughtoairhistriumphsalittle,especiallywhenhehasdinedwiththeGrandChamberlainandisgoingtovisittheKing! ThelanguorouslifeoftheislandsexactlysuitedMaskTwain。Allhislifeherememberedthem——alwaysplanningtoreturn,someday,tostaythereuntilhedied。Inoneofhisnote-bookshewrote:“WentwithMr。Damtohiscool,vine-shadedhome;nocare-wornoreager,anxiousfacesinthislandofhappycontentment。God,whatacontrastwithCaliforniaandtheWashoe!“ Andagain: “Oh,IslandsthereareonthefaceofthedeepWheretheleavesneverfadeandtheskiesneverweep。” Theletterstellthestoryofhissojourn,whichstretcheditselfintonearlyfivemonths。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: HONOLULU,SANDWICHISLANDS,April3,1866。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Ihavebeenheretwoorthreeweeks,andlikethebeautifultropicalclimatebetterandbetter。Ihaveriddenonhorsebackalloverthisisland(Oahu)inthemeantime,andhavevisitedalltheancientbattle-fieldsandotherplacesofinterest。IhavegotalotofhumanboneswhichItookfromoneofthesebattle-fields——IguessIwillbringyousomeofthem。IwentwiththeAmericanMinisterandtookdinnerthiseveningwiththeKing”sGrandChamberlain,whoisrelatedtotheroyalfamily,andalthoughdarkerthanamulatto,hehasanexcellentEnglisheducationandinmannersisanaccomplishedgentleman。ThedinnerwasasceremoniousasanyIeverattendedinCalifornia——fiveregularcourses,andfivekindsofwineandoneofbrandy。Heistocallformeinthemorningwithhiscarriage,andwewillvisittheKingatthepalace——botharegoodMasons——theKingisaRoyalArchMason。Afterdinnertonighttheycalledinthe“singinggirls,“andwehadsomebeautifulmusic;sunginthenativetongue。 ThesteamerIcamehereinsailstomorrow,andassoonassheisgoneI shallsailfortheotherislandsofthegroupandvisitthegreatvolcano——thegrandwonderoftheworld。Begonetwomonths。 Yrs。 SAM。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: WAILUKUSUGARPLANTATION,ISLANDOFMAUI,H。I。,May4,1866。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——11O”clockatnight——Thisistheinfernalistdarkestcountry,whenthemoondon”tshine;Istumbledandfellovermyhorse”slariataminuteagoandhurtmyleg,soImuststayheretonight。 Igotthesameleghurtlastweek;IsaidIhadn”tgotholdofaspiritedhorsesinceIhadbeenontheisland,andoneoftheproprietorsloanedmeabigviciouscolt;hewasaltogethertoospirited;Iwenttotightenthecinchbeforemountinghim,whenheletoutwithhisleftleg(?)andkickedmeacrossaten-acrelot。AnativerubbedanddoctoredmesowellthatIwasabletostandonmyfeetinhalfanhour。ItwasthenhalfafterfourandIhadanappointmenttogosevenmilesandgetagirlandtakehertoacardpartyatfive。 Ihavebeenclatteringaroundamongtheplantationsforthreeweeks,now,andnextweekIamgoingtovisittheextinctcraterofMountHaleakala—— thelargestintheworld;itistenmilestothefootofthemountain;itrises10,000feetabovethevalley;thecrateris29milesincircumferenceand1,000feetdeep。Seenfromthesummit,thecityofSt。 Louiswouldlooklikeapictureinthebottomofit。 AssoonasIgetbackfromHaleakala(pronouncedHally-ekka-lah)IwillsailforHonoluluagainandthencetotheIslandofHawaii(pronouncedHah-wy-ye,)toseethegreatestactivevolcanointheworld——thatofKilauea(pronouncedKee-low-way-ah)——andfromthencebacktoSanFrancisco——andthen,doubtless,totheStates。Ihavebeenonthistriptwomonths,anditwillprobablybetwomorebeforeIgetbacktoCalifornia。 YrsaffySAM。 Hewashavingaglorioustime——oneofthemosthappy,carefreeadventuresofhiscareer。NoformoftravelorundertakingcoulddiscountenanceMarkTwainatthirty。 ToMrs。OrionClemens,inCarsonCity: HONOLULU,May22,1866。 MYDEARSISTER,——Ihavejustgotbackfromaseavoyage——fromthebeautifulislandofMaui,Ihavespentfiveweeksthere,ridingbackwardsandforwardsamongthesugarplantations——lookingupthesplendidsceneryandvisitingtheloftycraterofHaleakala。Ithasbeenaperfectjubileetomeinthewayofpleasure。 Ihavenotwrittenasingleline,andhavenotoncethoughtofbusiness,orcareorhumantoilortroubleorsorroworweariness。Fewsuchmonthscomeinalifetime。 Isetsailagain,aweekhence,fortheislandofHawaii,toseethegreatactivevolcanoofKilauea。Ishallnotgetbackhereforfourorfiveweeks,andshallnotreachSanFranciscobeforethelatterpartofJuly。 Soitisnousetowaitformetogohome。Goonyourselves。 IfIwereintheeastnow,Icouldstopthepublicationofapiraticalbookwhichhasstolensomeofmysketches。 Itislate-good-bye,Mollie,YrBroSAM。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: HONOLULU,SANDWICHISLANDS,June21,1866。 MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——IhavejustgotbackfromahardtripthroughtheIslandofHawaii,begunonthe26thofMayandfinishedonthe18thofJune——onlysixorsevendaysatsea——allthebalancehorse-back,andthehardestmountainroadintheworld。Istaidatthevolcanoaboutaweekandwitnessedthegreatesteruptionthathasoccurredforyears。 Ilivedwellthere。Theycharge$4adayforboard,andadollarortwoextraforguidesandhorses。Ihadaprettygoodtime。Theydidn”tchargemeanything。Ihavegotbacksick——wenttobedassoonasI arrivedhere——shallnotbestrongagainforseveraldaysyet。Irushedtoofast。Ioughttohavetakenfiveorsixweeksonthattrip。 AweekhenceIstartfortheIslandofKauai,tobegonethreeweeksandthenIgobacktoCalifornia。 TheCrownPrincessisdeadandthousandsofnativescryandwailanddanceanddanceforthedead,aroundtheKing”sPalaceallnightandeverynight。Theywillkeepitupforamonthandthenshewillbeburied。 Hon。AnsonBurlingame,U。S。MinistertoChina,andGen。VanValkenburgh,MinistertoJapan,withtheirfamiliesandsuites,havejustarrivedhereenroute。Theyweregoingtodomethehonortocallonmethismorning,andthataccountsformybeingoutofbednow。Youknowwhatconditionmyroomisalwaysinwhenyouarenotaround——soIclimbedoutofbedanddressedandshavedprettyquickandwentuptotheresidenceoftheAmericanMinisterandcalledonthem。Mr。BurlingametoldmeagooddealaboutHon。JereClemensandthatVirginiaClemenswhowaswoundedinaduel。HewasinCongressyearswithbothofthem。Mr。B。sentforhisson,tointroducehim——saidhecouldtellthatfrogstoryofmineaswellasanybody。ItoldhimIwasgladtohearitforInevertriedtotellitmyselfwithoutmakingabotchofit。AthisrequestIhaveloanedMr。 BurlingameprettymucheverythingIeverwrote。Iguesshewillbeanalmightywisemanbythetimehewadesthroughthatlot。 IftheNewUnitedStatesMinistertotheSandwichIslands(Hon。EdwinMcCook,)wereonlyherenow,sothatIcouldgethisviewsonthisnewconditionofSandwichIslandpolitics,IwouldsailforCaliforniaatonce。ButhewillnotarrivefortwoweeksyetandsoIamgoingtospendthatintervalontheislandofKauai。 IstoppedthreedayswithHon。Mr。Cony,DeputyMarshaloftheKingdom,atHilo,Hawaii,lastweekandbyafunnycircumstancehekneweverybodythatIeverknewinHannibalandPalmyra。Weusedtositupallnighttalkingandthensleepallday。HeliveslikeaPrince。ConfoundthatIsland!Ihadastreakoffatandastreakofleanalloverit——gotlostseveraltimesandhadtosleepinhutswiththenativesandlivelikeadog。 OfcourseIcouldn”tspeakfiftywordsofthelanguage。Takeitaltogether,though,itwasamightyhardtrip。 YoursAffect。 SAM。 BurlingameandVanValkenburghwereontheirwaytotheirposts,andtheircomingtotheislandsjustatthistimeprovedamostimportantcircumstancetoMarkTwain。Weshallcometothispresently,inasummaryofthenewspaperletterswrittentotheUnion。June27thhewrotetohismotherandsisteraletter,onlyafragmentofwhichsurvives,inwhichhetellsofthearrivalinHonoluluofthesurvivorsoftheshipHornet,burnedontheline,andofhissecuringthefirstnewsreportofthelostvessel。 PartofalettertoMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: HONOLULU,June27,1866……withagillofwateradaytoeachman。Igotthewholestoryfromthethirdmateandtwoofthesailors。IfmyaccountgetstotheSacramentoUnionfirst,itwillbepublishedfirstallovertheUnitedStates,France,England,RussiaandGermany——allovertheworld;Imaysay。Youwillseeit。Mr。Burlingamewentwithmeallthetime,andhelpedmequestionthemen——throwingawayinvitationstodinnerwiththeprincesandforeigndignitaries,andneglectingallsortsofthingstoaccommodateme。YouknowhowIappreciatethatkindofthing——especiallyfromsuchaman,whoisacknowledgedtohavenosuperiorinthediplomaticcirclesoftheworld,andobtainedfromChinaconcessionsinfavorofAmericawhichwererefusedtoSirFrederickBruceandEnvoysofFranceandRussiauntilprocuredforthembyBurlingamehimself——whichservicewasdulyacknowledgedbythosedignitaries。Hehuntedmeupassoonashecamehere,andhasdonemeahundredfavorssince,andsaysifIwillcometoChinainthefirsttripofthegreatmailsteamernextJanuaryandmakehishouseinPekinmyhome,hewillaffordmefacilitiesthatfewmencanhavethereforseeingandlearning。HewillgivemeletterstothechiefsofthegreatMailSteamshipCompanywhichwillbeofservicetomeinthismatter。Iexpecttodoallthis,butIexpecttogototheStatesfirst——andfromChinatotheParisWorld”sFair。 Don”tshowthisletter。 YoursafflySAM。 P。S。ThecrownPrincessofthisKingdomwillbeburiedtomorrowwithgreatceremony——afterthatIsailintwoweeksforCalifornia。 ThisconcludesMarkTwain”spersonallettersfromtheislands。 Ofhisdescriptivenewsletterstherewereabouttwenty,andtheywereregardedbythereadersoftheUnionasdistinctlynotable。 Re-readingthoseoldlettersto-dayitisnotaltogethereasytounderstandwhy。Theyweresetinfinenonpareiltype,foronething,whichpresent-dayeyessimplyrefuseatanyprice,andthereward,bypresent-daystandards,isnotespeciallytempting。 ThelettersbeganintheUnionwiththeissueofAprilthe16th,1866。Thefirst——ofdateMarch18th——tellsofthewriter”sarrivalatHonolulu。Thehumorinitisnotalwaysofahighorder;itwouldhardlypassforhumortodayatall。ThatthesamemanwhowrotetheHawaiianlettersin1866(hewasthenoverthirtyyearsold)could,twoyearslater,havewrittenthatmarvelousbook,theInnocentsAbroad,isaphenomenoninliterarydevelopment。 TheHawaiianletters,however,doshowthetransitionstagebetweentheroughelementalhumoroftheComstockandtherefinedandsubtlestylewhichfloweredintheInnocentsAbroad。CertainlyMarkTwain”sgeniuswasfindingitself,andhisassociationwiththerefinedandculturedpersonalityofAnsonBurlingameundoubtedlyaidedinthatdiscovery。Burlingamepointedouthisfaultstohim,anddirectedhimtoabetterway。Nomorethanthatwasneededatsuchatimetobringaboutatransformation。 TheSandwichIslandsletters,however,musthavebeenpreciselyadaptedtotheiraudience——alittlemorerefinedthanthelogComstock,alittlelesssubtlethantheAtlanticpublic——andtheyaddedmateriallytohisCoastprestige。ButletusconsiderasampleextractfromthefirstSandwichIslandsletter: Ourlittlebandofpassengerswereaswellandthoughtfullycaredforbythefriendstheyleftweepinguponthewharf,aseverwereanysimilarbodyofpilgrims。Thetravelingoutfitconferreduponmebeganwithanavaluniform,continuedwithacaseofwine,asmallassortmentofmedicinalliquorsandbrandy,severalboxesofcigars,abunchofmatches,afine-toothedcomb,andacakeofsoap,andendedwithapairofsocks。(N。B。IgavethesoaptoBrown,whobitintoit,andthen。 shookhisheadandsaidthat,asageneralthing,helikedtoprospectcurious,foreigndishes,andfindoutwhattheyweremadeof,buthecouldn”tgothat,andthrewitoverboard。) Itisnearlyimpossibletoimaginehumorinthisextract,yetitisafairsampleoftheentireletter。 Heimprovesinhisnext,atleast,indescription,andgivesusapictureofthecrater。Inthisletter,also,hewriteswellandseriously,inapropheticstrain,ofthegreattradethatistobeestablishedbetweenSanFranciscoandHawaii,andarguesforalineofsteamersbetweentheports,inorderthattheislandsmightbepopulatedbyAmericans,bywhichcourseEuropeantradeinthatdirectioncouldbesuperseded。Butthehumorinthisletter,suchasitis,wouldscarcelyprovokeasmileto-day。 Astheletterscontinue,hestillurgesthefosteringoftheislandtradebytheUnitedStates,findshimselfimpressedbytheworkofthemissionaries,whohaveconvertedcannibalstoChristians,andgivespicturesquebitsofthelifeandscenery。 HawaiiwasthendominatedchieflybyFrenchandEnglish;thoughtheAmericaninterestswerebynomeanssmall。 ExtractfromletterNo。4: Cap。Fitchsaid“There”stheking。That”shiminthebuggy。IknowhimasfarasIcanseehim。” Ihadneverseenaking,andInaturallytookoutanote-bookandputhimdown:“Tall,slender,dark,full-bearded;greenfrock-coat,withlapelsandcollarborderedwithgoldbandaninchwide;plughat,broadgoldbandaroundit;royalcostumelookstoomuchlikelivery;thismanisnotasfleshyasIthoughthewas。 IhadjustgotthesenoteswhenCap。Fitchdiscoveredthathe”dgotholdofthewrongking,orrather,thathe”dgotholdoftheking”sdriver,oracarriagedriverofoneofthenobility。Thekingwasn”tpresentatall。Itwasagreatdisappointmenttome。Iheardafterwardsthatthecomfortable,easy-goingking,KamehamehaV。,hadbeenseensittingonabarrelonthewharf,thedaybefore,fishing。Buttherewasnoconsolationinthat。Thatdidnotrestorememylostking。 Thishassomethingoftheflavorofthemanweweretoknowlater; thequaint,gentleresignationtodisappointmentwhichisoneofthefinesttouchesinhishumor。 Furtheronhesays:“IhadnotshavedsinceIleftSanFrancisco。 AssoonasIgotashoreIhuntedupastripedpole,andshortlyfoundone。Ialwayshadayearningtobeaking。Thismayneverbe,Isuppose,but,atanyrate,itwillalwaysbeasatisfactiontometoknowthat,ifIamnotaking,Iamthenextthingtoit。 Ihavebeenshavedbytheking”sbarber。” Honoluluwasaplaceofcats。Hesawcatsofeveryshadeandvariety。Hesays:“Isawcats——tomcats,Mary-Anncats,bobtailedcats,blindcats,one-eyedcats,wall-eyedcats,cross-eyedcats,graycats,blackcats,whitecats,yellowcats,stripedcats,spottedcats,tamecats,wildcats,singedcats,individualcats,groupsofcats,platoonsofcats,companiesofcats,armiesofcats,multitudesofcats,millionsofcats,andallofthemsleek,fat,andlazy,andsoundasleep。”Whichillustratesanothercharacteristicofthehumorweweretoknowlater——thehumorofgrotesqueexaggeration,inwhichhewasalwaysstrong。 Hefoundtheislandsduringhisperiodsofinactionconducivetoindolence。“IfIwerenotsofondoflookingintotherichmassofgreenleaves,“hesays,“thatswathethestatelytamarindrightbeforemydoor,Iwouldidleless,andwritemore,Ithink。” TheUnionmadegooduseofhisletters。Sometimesitprintedthemonthefrontpage。Evidentlytheywerepopularfromthebeginning。 TheUnionwasafine,handsomepaper——beautifulinitsminutetypography,andinitspress-work;morebeautifulthanmostpapersofto-day,withtheirmachine-settype,theirvulgarillustrations,andtheirchain-lightningpresses。Afewmoreextracts: “Theonlycigarsherearethosetrifling,insipid,tasteless,flavorlessthingstheycallManilas——tenfortwenty-fivecents——anditwouldtakeathousandofthemtobeworthhalfthemoney。Afteryouhavesmokedaboutthirty-fivedollars”worthofthemintheforenoon,youfeelnothingbutadesperateyearningtogooutsomewhereandtakeasmoke。” “Captainsandministersformabouthalfthepopulation。ThethirdfourthiscomposedofKanakasandmercantileforeignersandtheirfamilies。ThefinalfourthismadeupofhighofficersoftheHawaiiangovernment,andtherearejustaboutenoughcatstogoround。” InNo。6,Aprilthe2d,hesays:“AnexcursiontoDiamondHead,andtheking”scocoanutgrove,wasplannedto-day,at4。30P。M。,thepartytoconsistofhalfadozengentlemenandthreeladies。Theyallstartedattheappointedhourexceptmyself。Somebodyremarkedthatitwastwentyminutespastfiveo”clock,andthatwokemeup。 ItwasafortunatecircumstancethatCap。Phillipswastherewithhis”turn-out”ashecallshistopbuggythatCap。Cookbroughtherein1778,andahorsethatwasherewhenCap。Cookcame。” Thisbithassomethingthesavorofhissubsequentwork,but,asarule,thehumorcomparespoorlywiththatwhichwastocomelater。 InNo。7hespeaksofthenativessingingAmericansongs——notalwaystohiscomfort。“MarchingThroughGeorgia“wasoneoftheirfavoriteairs。Hesays:“IfithadbeenallthesametoGen。 Sherman,IwishhehadgonearoundbythewayoftheGulfofMexico,insteadofmarchingthroughGeorgia。” LettersNos。8,9,and10werenotofspecialimportance。InNo。10 hegivessomeadvicetoSanFranciscoastothetreatmentofwhalers。Hesays: “IfIweregoingtoadviseSanFranciscoastothebeststrategytoemployinordertosecurethewhalingtrade,Ishouldsay,”Crippleyourfacilitiesfor“pulling“seacaptainsonanypretencethatsailorscantrumpup,andshowthewhaleralittlemoreconsiderationwhenheisinport。”” InNo。11,May24th,hetellsofatriptotheKalehiValley,andthroughhistoricpoints。AtoneplacehelookedfromaprecipiceoverwhicholdKamehamehaI。drovethearmyofOahu,three-quartersofacenturybefore。 Thevegetationandgloryofthetropicsattractedhim。“Inoneopenspotavineofaspeciesunknownhadtakenpossessionoftwotalldeadstumps,andwoundaroundandaboutthem,andswungoutfromtheirtops,andtwinedtheirmeetingtendrilstogetherintoafaultlessarch。Man,withallhisart,couldnotimproveuponitssymmetry。” HesawSamBrannan”spalace,“TheBungalow,“builtbyoneShillaberofSanFranciscoatacostoffromthirtytofortythousanddollars。 Initsdayithadoutshoneitsregalneighbor,thepalaceoftheking,buthadfallentodecayafterpassingintoBrannan”shands,andhadbecomeapicturesqueThebanruinbythetimeofMarkTwain”svisit。 InNo。12,June20th(writtenMay23d),hetellsoftheHawaiianLegislature,andofhistriptotheislandofMaui,where,ashesays,heneverspentsopleasantamonthbefore,orbadeanyplacegood-bysoregretfully。 InNo。13hecontinuestheLegislature,andgivesthispictureofMinisterHarris:“Heissixfeethigh,bonyandratherslender; long,ungainlyarms;standssostraightheleansbackalittle;hassmallsidewhiskers;hisheadlong,upanddown;hehasnocommandoflanguageorideas;oratoryallshowandpretence;abigwashingandasmallhang-out;weak,insipid,andadamnfoolingeneral。” InNo。14,June22d,publishedJulyi6th,hetellsofthedeathandburialceremoniesofthePrincessVictoriaK。K。,and,whatwastobeofmoreimportancetohim,ofthearrivalofAnsonBurlingame,U。S。MinistertoChina,andGen。VanValkenburgh,U。S。MinistertoJapan。Theyweretostaytenorfourteendays,hesaid,butaneffortwouldbemadetohavethemstayoverJuly4th。 SpeakingofBurlingame:“Burlingameisamanwhocouldbeesteemed,respected,andpopularanywhere,nomatterwhetherhewasamongChristiansorcannibals。”Then,inthesameletter,comesthegreatincident。“Aletterarrivedhereyesterday,givingameagreaccountofthearrival,ontheIslandofHawaii,ofnineteenpoor,starvingwretches,whohadbeenbuffetingastormysea,inanopenboat,forforty-threedays。Theirship,theHornet,fromNewYork,withaquantityofkeroseneonboardhadtakenfireandburnedinLat。2d。 north,andLong。35d。west。Whentheyhadbeenentirelyoutofprovisionsforadayortwo,andthecravingsofhungerbecomeinsufferable,theyyieldedtotheship-wreckedmariner”sfearfulandawfulalternative,andsolemnlydrewlotstodeterminewhooftheirnumbershoulddie,tofurnishfoodforhiscomrades;andthenthemorningmistslifted,andtheysawland。TheyarebeingcaredforatSanpahoe(Notyetcorroborated)。” TheHornetdisasterwasfullytoldinhisletterofJune27th。ThesurvivorswerebroughttoHonolulu,andwiththeassistanceoftheBurlingameparty,Clemens,laidupwithsaddleboils,wascarriedonastretchertothehospital,where,aidedbyBurlingame,heinterviewedtheshipwreckedmen,securingmaterialforthemostimportantpieceofseriouswritinghehadthusfarperformed。 LetterNo。15totheUnion——ofdateJune25th——occupiedthemostofthefirstpageintheissueofJuly19。Itwasadetailedaccountofthesufferingsofofficersandcrew,asgivenbythethirdofficerandmembersofthecrew。 FromletterNo。15: InthepostscriptofaletterwhichIwrotetwoorthreedaysago,andsentbytheship“LiveYankee,“IgaveyouthesubstanceofaletterreceivedherefromHilo,byWalkerAllenandCo。,informingthemthataboat,containingfifteenmeninahelplessandstarvingcondition,haddriftedashoreatSanpahoe,IslandofHawaii,andthattheyhadbelongedtotheclippership“Hornet“——Cap。Mitchell,master——hadbeenafloatsincetheburningofthatvessel,aboutonehundredmilesnorthoftheequator,onthethirdofMay——forty-threedays。 TheThirdMate,andtenoftheseamenhavearrivedhere,andarenowinthehospital。Cap。Mitchell,oneseamannamedAntonioPassene,andtwopassengers,SamuelandHenryFerguson,ofNewYorkCity,eighteenandtwenty-eightyears,arestillatHilo,butareexpectedherewithintheweek。IntheCaptain”smodestepitomeoftheterribleromanceyoudetectthefineoldherothroughit。ItreadslikeGrant。 Herefollowsthewholeterriblenarrative,whichhassincebeenpublishedinmoresubstantialform,andhasbeenrecognizedasliterature。ItoccupiedthreeandahalfcolumnsonthefrontpageoftheUnion,and,ofcourse,constitutedagreatbeatforthatpaper——afactwhichtheyappreciatedtotheextentofonehundreddollarsthecolumnuponthewriter”sreturnfromtheislands。 InlettersNos。14。and15。hegivesfurtherparticularsofthemonthofmourningfortheprincess,andfuneralceremonials。HereferstoBurlingame,whowasstillintheislands。Theremaininglettersareunimportant。 TheHawaiianepisodeinMarkTwain”slifewasoneofthosespotsthatseemedtohimalwaysfilledwithsunlight。Frombeginningtoendithadbeenalongluminousdream;inthenextletter,writtenonthehomeward-boundship,becalmedunderacloudlesssky,werealizethefittingendoftheexperience。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis: ONBOARDSHIPSmyrniote,ATSEA,July30,1866。 DEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Iwrite,now,becauseImustgohardatworkassoonasIgettoSanFrancisco,andthenIshallhavenotimeforotherthings——thoughtruthtosayIhavenothingnowtowritewhichwillbecalculatedtointerestyoumuch。Weleftthe,SandwichIslandseightortendays——ortwelvedaysago——Idon”tknowwhich,Ihavebeensohardatworkuntiltoday(atleastpartofeachday,)thatthetimehasslippedawayalmostunnoticed。Thefirstfewdayswecameatawhoopinggaitbeinginthelatitudeofthe“North-easttrades,“butwesoonranoutofthem。Weusedthemaslongastheylasted-hundredofmiles——andcamedeadstraightnorthuntilexactlyabreastofSanFranciscopreciselystraightwestofthecityinabee-line——butalongbee-line,aswewereabouttwothousandmilesatsea-consequently,wearenotahundredyardsnearerSanFranciscothanyouare。Andhereweliebecalmedonaglassysea——wedonotmoveaninch-wethrowbananaandorangepeeloverboardanditliesstillonthewaterbythevessel”sside。SometimestheoceanisasdeadlevelastheMississippiriver,andglittersglassilyasifpolished——butusually,ofcourse,nomatterhowcalmtheweatheris,werollandsurgeoverthegrandground-swell。Weamuseourselvestyingpiecesoftintotheship”slogandsinkingthemtoseehowfarwecandistinguishthemunderwater——86feetwasthedeepestwecouldseeasmallpieceoftin,butawhiteplatewouldshowaboutasfardownasthesteepleofDr。Bullard”schurchwouldreach,Iguess。Theseaisverydarkandbluehere。 Eversincewegotbecalmed——fivedays——IhavebeencopyingthediaryofoneoftheyoungFergusons(thetwoboyswhostarvedandsuffered,withthirteenothers,inanopenboatatseaforforty-threedays,lately,aftertheirship,the“Hornet,“wasburnedontheequator。)Boththeseboys,andCaptainMitchell,arepassengerswithus。IamcopyingthediarytopublishinHarper”sMagazine,ifIhavetimetofixitupproperlywhenIgettoSanFrancisco。 Isuppose,frompresentappearances,——lightwindsandcalms,——thatweshallbetwoorthreeweeksatsea,yet——andIhopeso——Iaminnohurrytogotowork。 SundayMorning,Aug。6。 Thisisratherslow。Westilldrift,drift,driftalong——atintervalsaspankingbreezeandthen——driftagain——hardlymoveforhalfaday。ButI enjoyit。Wehavesuchsnowymoonlight,andsuchgorgeoussunsets。 Andtheshipissoeasy——eveninagalesherollsverylittle,comparedtoothervessels——andinthiscalmwecoulddanceondeck,ifwechose。 Youcanwalkacrack,sosteadyisshe。VerydifferentfromtheAjax。 Mytrunkusedtogetlooseinthestateroomandripandteararoundtheplaceasifithadlifeinit,andIalwayshadtotakemyclothesoffinbedbecauseIcouldnotstandupanddoit。 Thereisashipinsight——thefirstobjectwehaveseensinceweleftHonolulu。Wearestill1300or1400milesfromlandandsoanythinglikethisthatvariesthevastsolitudeoftheoceanmakesallhandslight- heartedandcheerful。Wethinktheshipisthe“Comet,“whichleftHonoluluseveralhoursbeforewedid。Sheisabouttwelvemilesaway,andsowecannotseeherhull,butthesailorsthinkitistheCometbecauseofsomepeculiarityaboutherfore-top-gallantsails。Wehavewatchedheralltheforenoon。 AfternoonWehadpreachingonthequarter-deckbyRev。Mr。Rising,ofVirginiaCity,oldfriendofmine。Spreadaflagonthebooby-hatch,whichmadeaverygoodpulpit,andthenrangedthechairsoneithersideagainstthebulwarks;lastSundaywehadtheshadowofthemainsail,buttodaywewereontheoppositetack,closehauled,andhadthesun。Iamleaderofthechoironthisship,andasorryleaditis。IhopetheywillhaveabetteropinionofourmusicinHeaventhanIhavedownhere。 Iftheydon”tathunderboltwillcomedownandknockthevesselendways。 TheothershipistheComet——sheisrightabreastthreemilesaway,sailingonourcourse——bothofusinadeadcalm。Withtheglasseswecanseewhatwetaketobemenandwomenonherdecks。Iamwellacquaintedwithnearlyallherpassengers,andbeingsocloseseemsrightsociable。 Monday7——Ihadjustgonetobedalittleaftermidnightwhenthe2dmatecameandrousedupthecaptainandsaid“TheComethascomeroundandisstandingawayontheothertack。”Iwentupimmediately,andsodidallourpassengers,withoutwaitingtodress-men,womenandchildren。Therewasaperceptiblebreeze。Prettysoontheothershipsweptdownuponuswithallhersailsset,andmadeafineshowintheluminousstarlight。 Shepassedwithinahundredyardsofus,sowecouldfaintlyseepersonsonherdecks。Wehadtwominutes”chatwitheachother,throughthemediumofhoarseshouting,andthensheboreawaytowindward。 Inthemorningshewasonlyalittleblackpegstandingoutoftheglassyseainthedistanthorizon——analmostinvisiblemarkinthebrightsky。 Deadcalm。Sotheshipshavestood,alldaylong——havenotmoved100 yards。 Aug。8——Thecalmcontinues。Magnificentweather。Thegentlemenhaveallturnedboys。Theyplayboyishgamesonthepoopandquarter-deck。Forinstance:Theylayaknifeonthefife-railofthemainmast——standoffthreesteps,shutoneeye,walkupandstrikeatitwiththefore-finger; (seldomhitit;)alsotheylayaknifeonthedeckandwalksevenoreightstepswitheyescloseshut,andtrytofindit。Theykneel——placeelbowsagainstknees——extendhandsinfrontalongthedeck——placeknifeagainstendoffingers——thenclasphandsbehindbackandbendforwardandtrytopickuptheknifewiththeirteethandriseupfromkneeswithoutrollingoverorlosingtheirbalance。Theytieastringtotheshrouds—— standwithbackagainstitwalkthreesteps(eyesshut)——turnaroundthreetimesandgoandputfingeronthestring;onlyamilitarymancandoit。Ifyouwanttoknowhowperfectlyridiculousagrownmanlooksperformingsuchabsurditiesinthepresenceofladies,getonetotryit。 Afternoon——Thecalmisnomore。Therearethreevesselsinsight。Itissosociabletohavethemhoveringaboutusonthisbroadwasteofwater。 Itissunnyandpleasant,butblowinghard。Everyragabouttheshipisspreadtothebreezeandsheisspeedingoverthesealikeabird。Thereisalargebrigrightasternofuswithallhercanvassetandchasingusatherbest。Shecameupfastwhilethewindswerelight,butnowitishardtotellwhethershegainsornot。Wecanseethepeopleontheforecastlewiththeglass。Theraceisexciting。Iamsorrytoknowthatweshallsoonhavetoquitthevesselandgoashoreifshekeepsupthisspeed。 Friday,Aug。10——Wehavebreezesandcalmsalternately。Thebrigistwomilestothreeastern,andjuststaysthere。Wesaildirectlyeast——thisbringsthebrig,withallhercanvasset,almostintheeyeofthesun,whenitsets——beautiful。Shelookssharplycutandblackasacoal,againstabackgroundoffireandinthemidstofaseaofblood。 SanFrancisco,Aug。20——WeneversawtheCometagaintillthe13th,inthemorning,threemilesaway。Atthreeo”clockthatafternoon,25daysoutfromHonolulu,bothshipsenteredtheGoldenGateofSanFranciscosidebyside,and300yardsapart。Therewasagaleblowing,andbothvesselsclappedoneverystitchofcanvasandsweptupthroughthechannelandpastthefortressesatamagnificentgait。 IhavebeenuptoSacramentoandsquaredaccountswiththeUnion。Theypaidmeagreatdealmorethantheypromisedme。 YrsaffSAM。 VI。 LETTERS1866-67。THELECTURER。SUCCESSONTHECOAST。INNEWYORK。 THEGREATOCEANEXCURSION ItwasAugust13thwhenhereachedSanFranciscoandwroteinhisnote-book,“Homeagain。No——nothomeagain——inprisonagain,andallthewildsenseoffreedomgone。Cityseemssocrampedandsodrearywithtoilandcareandbusinessanxieties。Godhelpme,I wishIwereatseaagain!“ Thetransitionfromthedreamlandofabecalmedsailing-vesseltothedull,cheerlessrealitiesofhisoldlife,andtheuncertaintiesofhisfuture,depressedhim——filledhimwithforebodings。Atonemomenthefelthimselfonthevergeofsuicide——theworldseemedsolittleworthwhile。 Hewishedtomakeatriparoundtheworld,aprojectthatrequiredmoney。Hecontemplatedmakingabookofhisislandlettersandexperiences,andtheacceptancebyHarper”sMagazineoftherevisedversionoftheHornetShipwreckstoryencouragedthisthought。 FriendsurgedhimtoembodyinalecturethepicturesqueaspectofHawaiianlife。Thethoughtfrightenedhim,butitalsoappealedtohimstrongly。Hebelievedhecouldentertainanaudience,oncehegotstartedontherighttrack。AsGovernoroftheThirdHouseatCarsonCityhehadkepttheaudienceinhand。Meninwhomhehadtheutmostconfidenceinsistedthathefollowupthelectureideaandengagethelargesthouseinthecityforhispurpose。Thepossibilityoffailureappalledhim,buthefinallyagreedtotheplan。 InRoughingIt,andelsewhere,hasbeentoldthestoryofthisventure——thetaleofitssplendidsuccess。Hewasnolongerconcerned,now,astohisimmediatefuture。Thelecturefieldwasprofitable。Hisaudiencelaughedandshouted。Hewaslearningtheflavorofrealsuccessandexultinginit。WithDennisMcCarthy,formerlyoneofthepartnersintheEnterprise,asmanager,hemadeatourofCaliforniaandNevada。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandothers,inSt。Louis: VIRGINIACITY,Nov。1,1866。 ALLTHEFOLKS,AFFECTIONATEGREETING,——Youknowtheflushtime”sarepast,andithaslongbeenimpossibletomorethanhalffilltheTheatrehere,withanysortofattraction,buttheyfilleditforme,nightbeforelast——full——dollaralloverthehouse。 IwasmightydubiousaboutCarson,buttheenclosedcallandsometelegramssetthatallright——Ilecturetheretomorrownight。 TheyofferafullhouseandnoexpenseinDayton——gotherenext。SandyBaldwinsaysIhavemadethemostsweepingsuccessofanymanheknowsof。 IhavelecturedinSanFrancisco,Sacramento,Marysville,GrassValley,Nevada,YouBet,RedDogandVirginia。IamgoingtotalkinCarson,GoldHill,SilverCity,Dayton,Washoe,SanFranciscoagain,andagainhereifIhavetimetore-hashthelecture。 ThenIamboundforNewYork——lectureontheSteamer,maybe。 I”11leavetoward1stDecember——butI”lltelegraphyou。 Lovetoall。 Yrs。 MARK。 HislecturetourcontinuedfromOctoberuntilDecember,aperiodofpicturesqueincident,thestoryofwhichhasbeenrecordedelsewhere—— [SeeMarkTwain:ABiography,bythesameauthor]——Itpaidhimwell; hecouldgohomenow,withoutshame。Indeed,fromhisnextletter,fulloftheboyishelationwhichalwaystohislastyearswasthecomplementofhissuccess,wegatherthatheisgoinghomewithspecialhonors—— introductionsfromministersandtheliketodistinguishedpersonagesoftheEast。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis: SANF。,Dec。4,1866。 MYDEARFOLKS,——IhavewrittentoAnnieandSammyandKatiesometimeago——also,tothebalanceofyou。 IcalledonRev。Dr。WadsworthlastnightwiththeCityCollegeman,buthewasn”tathome。Iwassorry,becauseIwantedtomakehisacquaintance。IamthickasthieveswiththeRev。Stebbings,andIamlayingfortheRev。ScudderandtheRev。Dr。Stone。Iamrunningonpreachers,now,altogether。Ifindthemgay。Stebbingsisaregularbrick。IamtakinglettersofintroductiontoHenryWardBeecher,Rev。 Dr。Tyng,andothereminentparsonsintheeast。Wheneveranybodyoffersmealettertoapreacher,nowIsnaffleitonthespot。IshallmakeRev。Dr。BellowstrotoutthefastnagsoftheclothformewhenIgettoNewYork。Bellowsisanable,uprightandeloquentman——amanofimperialintellectandmatchlesspower——heisChristianinthetruestsenseofthetermandisunquestionablyabrick…… Gen。DrumhasarrivedinPhiladelphiaandestablishedhishead-quartersthere,asAdjutantGenl。toMaj。Gen。Meade。Col。LeonardhasreceivedaletterfromhiminwhichheoffersmeacomplimentarybenefitifIwillcomethere。Iammuchobliged,really,butIamafraidIshan”tlecturemuchintheStates。 TheChinaMailSteamerisgettingreadyandeverybodysaysIamthrowingawayafortuneinnotgoinginher。Ifirmlybelieveitmyself。 IsailfortheStatesintheOppositionsteamerofthe5thinst。,positivelyandwithoutreserve。Myroomisalreadysecuredforme,andisthechoicestintheship。Iknowalltheofficers。 Yrs。AffyMARK。 Wegetnohintofhisplans,andperhapshehadnone。IfhispurposewastolectureintheEast,hewasinnohurrytobegin。 ArrivinginNewYork,afteranadventurousvoyage,hemetanumberofoldCalifornians——menwhobelievedinhim——andurgedhimtolecture。Healsoreceivedoffersofnewspaperengagements,andfromCharlesHenryWebb,whohadpublishedtheCalifornian,whichBretHartehadedited,cametheproposaltocollecthispublishedsketches,includingthejumpingFrogstory,inbookform。WebbhimselfwasinNewYork,andofferedthesketchestoseveralpublishers,includingCanton,whohadoncerefusedtheFrogstorybyomittingitfromArtemusWard”sbook。ItseemscuriousthatCantonshouldmakeasecondmistakeandrefuseitagain,butpublisherswerewaryinthosedays,andeventhenewspapersuccessoftheFrogstorydidnottempthimtoventureitasthetitletaleofabook。 Webbfinallydeclaredhewouldpublishthebookhimself,andClemens,afterafewweeksofNewYork,joinedhismotherandfamilyinSt。Louisandgavehimselfuptoaconsiderableperiodofvisiting,lecturingmeantimeinbothHannibalandKeokuk。 Fatehadgreatmattersinpreparationforhim。TheQuakerCityMediterraneanexcursion,thefirstgreatoceanpicnic,wasannouncedthatspring,andMarkTwainrealizedthatitofferedapossibleopportunityforhimtoseesomethingoftheworld。HewroteatoncetotheproprietorsoftheAlta-Californiaandproposedthattheysendhimastheircorrespondent。Tohisdelighthispropositionwasaccepted,theAltaagreeingtothetwelvehundreddollarspassagemoney,andtwentydollarseachforletters。 TheQuakerCitywasnottosailuntilthe8thofJune,buttheAltawishedsomepreliminarylettersfromNewYork。Furthermore,WebbhadtheFrogbookinpress,andwouldissueitMay1st。Clemens,therefore,returnedtoNewYorkinApril,andnowoncemorebeingurgedbytheCalifornianstolecture,hedidnotrefuse。FrankFuller,formerlyGovernorofUtah,tookthematterinhandandengagedCooperUnionfortheventure。HetimeditforMay6th,whichwouldbeafewdaysaftertheappearanceofWebb”sbook。 ClemenswasevenmorefrightenedattheprospectofthislecturethanhehadbeeninSanFrancisco,andwithmorereason,forinNewYorkhisfriendswerenotmany,andcompetitionforpublicfavorwasverygreat。TherearetwoletterswrittenMay1st,onetohispeople,andonetoBretHarte,inSanFrancisco;thatgiveusthesituation。 EndLettersVol。2 byMarkTwainVOLUMEII。 MARKTWAIN”SLETTERS1867-1875 ToBretHarte,inSanFrancisco: WESTMINSTERHOTEL,May1,1867。 DEARBRET,——ItakemypeninhandtoinformyouthatIamwellandhopethesefewlineswillfindyouenjoyingthesameGod”sblessing。 Thebookisout,andishandsome。ItisfullofdamnableerrorsofgrammaranddeadlyinconsistenciesofspellingintheFrogsketchbecauseIwasawayanddidnotreadtheproofs;butbeafriendandsaynothingaboutthesethings。Whenmyhurryisover,Iwillsendyouanautographcopytopisenthechildrenwith。 IamtolectureinCooperInstitutenextMondaynight。Prayforme。 WesailfortheHolyLandJune8。Trytowriteme(tothishotel,)anditwillbeforwardedtoParis,whereweremain10or15days。 RegardsandbestwishestoMrs。Bretandthefamily。 TrulyYrFriendMARK。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis: WESTMINSTERHOTEL,May1,1867。 DEARFOLKS,——Don”texpectmetowriteforawhile。Myhandsarefullofbusinessonaccountofmylectureforthe6thinst。,andeverythinglooksshady,atleast,ifnotdark。Ihavegotagoodagent——butnowafterwehavehiredCooperInstituteandgonetoanexpenseinonewayoranotherof$500,itcomesoutthatIhavegottoplayagainstSpeakerColfaxatIrvingHall,Ristori,andalsothedoubletroupeofJapanesejugglers,thelatteropeningatthegreatAcademyofMusic——andwithallthisagainstmeIhavetakenthelargesthouseinNewYorkandcannotbackwater。Letherslide!IfnobodyelsecaresIdon”t。 I”llsendthebooksoon。Iamawfullyhurriednow,butnotworried。 Yrs。 SAM。 TheCooperUnionlectureprovedafailure,andasuccess。WhenitbecameevidenttoFullerthattheventurewasnotgoingtopay,hesentoutafloodofcomplimentariestotheschool-teachersofNewYorkCityandthesurroundingdistricts。Nooneseemstohavedeclinedthem。Clemenslecturedtoajammedhouseandacquiredmuchreputation。Lectureproposalscamefromseveraldirections,buthecouldnotacceptthemnow。 HewrotehomethathewaseighteenAltalettersbehindandhadrefusedeverything。Thos。Nast,thecartoonist,theninhisfirstfame,proppedajointtour,Clemenstolecturewhilehe,Nast,wouldillustratewith“lightning“sketches;buteventhiscouldnotbeconsiderednow。Inalittlewhilehewouldsail,andthedayswereoverfull。Aletterwrittenaweekbeforehesailedisfullofthehurryandstrainoftheselastdays。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis: WESTMINSTERHOTEL,NEWYORK,June1,1867。 DEARFOLKS,——IknowIoughttowriteoftener(justgotyourlast,)andmorefully,butIcannotovercomemyrepugnancetotellingwhatIamdoingorwhatIexpecttodoorproposetodo。Then,whathaveIlefttowriteabout?Manifestlynothing。 Itisn”tanyuseformetotalkaboutthevoyage,becauseIcanhavenofaithinthatvoyagetilltheshipisunderway。HowdoIknowshewilleversail?Mypassageispaid,andiftheshipsails,Isailinher——butImakenocalculations,haveboughtnocigars,nosea-goingclothing——havemadenopreparationwhatever——shallnotpackmytrunktillthemorningwesail。YetmyhandsarefullofwhatIamgoingtodothedaybeforewesail——andwhatisn”tdonethatdaywillgoundone。 AllIdoknoworfeel,is,thatIamwildwithimpatiencetomove——move——move!HalfadozentimesIhavewishedIhadsailedlongagoinsomeshipthatwasn”tgoingtokeepmechainedheretochafeforlaggingageswhileshegotreadytogo。Cursetheendlessdelays!Theyalwayskillme——theymakemeneglecteverydutyandthenIhaveaconsciencethattearsmelikeawildbeast。IwishIneverhadtostopanywhereamonth。 Idomoremeanthings,themomentIgetachancetofoldmyhandsandsitdownthaneverIcangetforgivenessfor。 Yes,wearetomeetatMr。Beach”snextThursdaynight,andIsupposeweshallhavetobegottenupregardlessofexpense,inswallow-tails,whitekidsandeverythingenregle。 IamresignedtoRev。Mr。Hutchinson”soranybodyelse”ssupervision。 Idon”tmindit。Iamfixed。Ihavegotasplendid,immoral,tobacco- smoking,wine-drinking,godlessroom-matewhoisasgoodandtrueandright-mindedamanaseverlived——amanwhoseblamelessconductandexamplewillalwaysbeaneloquentsermontoallwhoshallcomewithintheirinfluence。Butsendontheprofessionalpreachers——therearenoneIlikebettertoconversewith。Ifthey”renotnarrowmindedandbigotedtheymakegoodcompanions。 IaskedthemtosendtheN。Y。Weeklytoyou——nocharge。Iamnotgoingtowriteforit。Likeallother,papersthatpayonesplendidlyitcirculatesamongstupidpeopleandthe”canaille。”IhavemadenoarrangementwithanyNewYorkpaper——IwillseeaboutthatMondayorTuesday。 LovetoallGoodbye,YrsaffySAM。 The“immoral“room-matewhoseconductwastobean“eloquentexample“wasDanSlote,immortalizedintheInnocentsas“Dan“—— afavoriteontheship,andlaterbelovedbycountlessreaders。 Thereisonemoreletter,writtenthenightbeforetheQuakerCitysailed-aletterwhichinasensemarksthecloseofthefirstgreatperiodofhislife——theperiodofaimlesswandering——adventure——youth。 Perhapsaparagraphofexplanationshouldprecedethisletter。 PoliticalchangeshadeliminatedOrioninNevada,andhewasnowundertakingthepracticeoflaw。“BillStewart“wasSenatorStewart,ofNevada,ofwhomweshallhearagain。The“SandwichIslandbook,“asmaybeimagined,wasmadeupofhisletterstotheSacramentoUnion。Nothingcameoftheventure,exceptsomechaptersin”RoughingIt”,rewrittenfromthematerial。“ZebandJohnLeavenworth“werepilotswhomhehadknownontheriver。 ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamilyinSt。Louis: NEWYORK,June7th,1867。 DEARFOLKS,Isupposeweshallbemanyaleagueatseatomorrownight,andgoodnessknowsIshallbeunspeakablygladofit。 Ihaven”tgotanythingtowrite,elseIwouldwriteit。IhavejustwrittenmyselfclearoutinletterstotheAlta,andIthinktheyarethestupidestlettersthatwereeverwrittenfromNewYork。CorrespondinghasbeenaperfectdrageversinceIgottothestates。Ifitcontinuesabroad,Idon”tknowwhattheTribuneandAltafolkswillthink。 IhavewithdrawntheSandwichIslandbook——itwouldbeuselesstopublishitinthesedullpublishingtimes。AsfortheFrogbook,Idon”tbelievethatwilleverpayanythingworthacent。Ipublisheditsimplytoadvertisemyself——notwiththehopeofmakinganythingoutofit。 Well,Ihaven”tanythingtowrite,exceptthatIamtiredofstayinginoneplace——thatIaminafevertogetaway。ReadmyAltaletters——theycontaineverythingIcouldpossiblywritetoyou。TellZebandJohnLeavenworthtowriteme。Theycangetplentyofgossipfromthepilots。 Animportinghousesenttwocasesofexquisitechampagneaboardtheshipformetoday——VeuveClicquotandLacd”Or。Iandmyroom-matehavesetaparteverySaturdayasasolemnfastday,whereinwewillentertainnolightmattersoffrivolousconversation,butonlygetdrunk。(Thatisajoke。)HismotherandsistersarethebestandmosthomelikepeopleI haveyetfoundinabrownstonefront。Thereisnostyleaboutthem,exceptinhouseandfurniture。 IwishOrionweregoingonthisvoyage,forIbelievehecouldnothelpbutbecheerfulandjolly。Ioftenwonderifhislawbusinessisgoingsatisfactorilytohim,butknowingthatthedullseasonissettinginnow(itlookedlikeithadalreadysetinbefore)IhavefeltasifIcouldalmostanswerthequestionmyself——whichistosayinplainwords,Iwasafraidtoask。IwishIhadgonetoWashingtoninthewinterinsteadofgoingWest。IcouldhavegougedanofficeoutofBillStewartforhim,andthatwouldatoneforthelossofmyhomevisit。ButIamsoworthlessthatitseemstomeIneverdoanythingoraccomplishanythingthatlingersinmymindasapleasantmemory。MymindisstoredfullofunworthyconducttowardOrionandtowardsyouall,andanaccusingconsciencegivesmepeaceonlyinexcitementandrestlessmovingfromplacetoplace。IfIcouldsayIhaddoneonethingforanyofyouthatentitledmetoyourgoodopinion,(Isaynothingofyourlove,forIamsureofthat,nomatterhowunworthyofitImaymakemyself,fromOriondownyouhavealwaysgivenmethat,allthedaysofmylife,whenGodAlmightyknowsIseldomdeserveit,)IbelieveIcouldgohomeandstaythereandIknowIwouldcarelittlefortheworld”spraiseorblame。 Thereisnosatisfactionintheworld”spraiseanyhow,andithasnoworthtomesaveinthewayofbusiness。Itriedtogatherupitscomplimentstosendtoyou,buttheworkwasdistastefulandIdroppedit。 YouobservethatunderacheerfulexteriorIhavegotaspiritthatisangrywithmeandgivesmefreelyitscontempt。Icangetawayfromthatatsea,andbetranquilandsatisfied-andso,withmypartingloveandbenedictionforOrionandallofyou,IsaygoodbyeandGodblessyouall——andwelcomethewindthatwaftsawearysoultothesunnylandsoftheMediterranean! Yrs。Forever,SAM。 VII。 LETTERS1867。THETRAVELER。THEVOYAGEOFTHE“QUAKERCITY“ MarkTwain,nowatsea,waswritingmanyletters;notpersonalletters,butthoseuniquedescriptiverelationsoftravelwhichwouldmakehimhisfirstgreatfame——thosefreshfirstimpressionspreservedtousnowaschaptersofTheInnocentsAbroad。Yethereandthereinthemidstofsight-seeingandreportinghefoundtimetosendabrieflinetothoseathome,merelythattheymighthaveawordfromhisownhand,forhehadorderedthepaperstowhichhewastocontribute——theAltaandtheNewYorkTribune——senttothem,andthesewouldgivethestoryofhistravels。Thehomelettersreadlikenotebookentries。