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佚名字数:38555更新时间:18/12/19 15:59:45
Couldn”tgoonthehilltoday。Itsnowed。Italwayssnowshere,I
expect。
Don”tyousupposetheyhaveprettymuchquitwriting,athome?
Whenyoureceiveyournext1/4yr”ssalary,don”tsendanyofithereuntilafteryouhavetoldmeyouhavegotit。Rememberthis。IamafraidofthatH。andD。
TheyhavestrucktheledgeintheLiveYankeetunnel,andItoldthePresident,Mr。Allen,thatitwasn”tasgoodasthecroppings。Hesaidthatwastrueenough,buttheywouldhangtoituntilitdidproverich。
Heismuchofagentleman,thatmanAllen。
AndaskGasleriewhythedevilhedon”tsendalongmycommissionasDeputySheriff。ThefactofmybeinginCalifornia,andoutofhiscountry,wouldn”tamounttoad——nwithme,intheperformanceofmyofficialduties。
Ihavenothingtoreport,atpresent,exceptthatIshallfindoutallI
wanttoknowaboutthislocalitybeforeIleaveit。
HowdotheRecordspay?
Yr。Bro。
SAM。
Inoneoftheforegoingletters——theonedatedMay11thereisareferencetothewriter”s“EnterpriseLetters。”Sometimes,duringidledaysinthecamp,theminerhadfollowedoldliteraryimpulsesandwrittenanoccasionalburlesquesketch,whichhehadsigned“Josh,“andsenttotheTerritorialEnterprise,atVirginiaCity——
[OnecontributionwassenttoaKeokukpaper,TheGateCity,andaletterwrittenbyMrs。JaneClemensatthetimewouldindicatethatMarkTwain”smotherdidnotalwaysapproveofherson”sliteraryefforts。Shehopesthathewilldobetter,andsometimewritesomething“thathiskinwillbeproudof。”]——Therough,vigoroushumorofthesehadattractedsomeattention,andOrion,pleasedwithanymeasureofsuccessthatmightcometohisbrother,hadallowedtheauthorshipofthemtobecomeknown。When,inJuly,thefinancialsituationbecamedesperate,theEsmeraldaminerwasmovedtoturntoliteratureforrelief。Butwewilllethimpresentthesituationhimself。
ToOrionClemens,inCarsonCity:
ESMERALDA,July23d,1862。
MYDEARBRO。,——No,Idon”townafootinthe“Johnson“ledge——IwilltellthestorysomedayinamoreintelligiblemannerthanTomhastoldit。
Youneedn”ttakethetroubletodenyTom”sversion,though。Iown25
feet(1-16)ofthe1steastex。onit——andJohnsonhimselfhascontractedtofindtheledgefor100feet。Contractsignedyesterday。Butastheledgewillbedifficulttofindheisallowedsixmonthstofinditin。
AneighteenthoftheOphirwasafortunetoJohnD。Winters——andtheOphircan”tbeattheJohnsonany……
MydebtsaregreaterthanIthoughtfor;Ibought$25worthofclothing,andsent$25toHigbie,inthecementdiggings。Ioweabout$45or$5o,andhavegotabout$45inmypocket。Buthowintheh——lIamgoingtoliveonsomethingover$100untilOctoberorNovember,issingular。Thefactis,Imusthavesomethingtodo,andthatshortly,too……
NowwritetotheSacramentoUnionfolks,ortoMarsh,andtellthemI”llwriteasmanylettersaweekastheywant,for$10aweek——myboardmustbepaid。TellthemIhavecorrespondedwiththeN。OrleansCrescent,andotherpapers——andtheEnterprise。Californiaisfullofpeoplewhohaveinterestshere,andit”sd——dseldomtheyhearfromthiscountry。
Ican”twriteaspecimenletter——now,atanyrate——I”dratherundertaketowriteaGreekpoem。Tell”emthemailandexpressleavethreetimesaweek,anditcostsfrom25to50centstosendlettersbytheblastedexpress。Iftheywantlettersfromhere,who”llrunfrommorningtillnightcollectingmaterialscheaper。I”llwriteashortlettertwiceaweek,forthepresent,forthe“Age,“for$5perweek。NowithasbeenalongtimesinceIcouldn”tmakemyownliving,anditshallbealongtimebeforeIloafanotheryear……
IfIgettheother25feetintheJohnsonex。,Ishan”tcaread——n。
I”llbewillingtocurseawhileandwait。AndifIcan”tmovethebowelsofthosehillsthisfall,IwillcomeupandclerkforyouuntilIgetmoneyenoughtogooverthemountainsforthewinter。
Yr。Bro。
SAM。
TheTerritorialEnterpriseatVirginiaCitywasatthistimeownedbyJosephT。Goodman,whohadboughtitontheeveofthegreatComstocksilver-miningboom,andfromastruggling,starvingsheethadconverteditintooneofthemostimportant——certainlythemostpicturesque-papersonthecoast。ThesketcheswhichtheEsmeraldaminerhadwrittenoverthenameof“Josh“fittedintoitexactly,andwhenayoungmannamedBarstow,inthebusinessoffice,urgedGoodmantoinvite“Josh“tojointheirstaff,theEnterpriseownerreadilyfellinwiththeidea。Amongalotofminingmattersofnospecialinterest,Clemens,July3oth,wrotehisbrother:“BarstowhasofferedmethepostaslocalreporterfortheEnterpriseat$25
aweek,andIhavewrittenhimthatIwilllethimknownextmail,ifpossible。”
InRoughingItwearetoldthattheminereagerlyacceptedthepropositiontocometoVirginiaCity,buttheletterstelladifferentstory。MarkTwainwasneveronetoabandonanyundertakingeasily。Hisunwillingnesstosurrenderinalostcausewouldcosthimmorethanonefortuneintheyearstocome。Aweekfollowingthedateoftheforegoinghewasstillundecided。
ToOrionClemens,inCarsonCity:
ESMERALDA,Aug。7,1862。
MYDEARBRO,——BarstowwrotethatifIwantedtheplaceIcouldhaveit。
IwrotehimthatIguessedIwouldtakeit,andaskedhimhowlongbeforeImustcomeupthere。Ihavenotheardfromhimsince。
Now,Ishallleaveatmid-nighttonight,aloneandonfootforawalkof60or70milesthroughatotallyuninhabitedcountry,anditisbarelypossiblethatmailfacilitiesmayproveinfernally“slow“duringthefewweeksIexpecttospendoutthere。ButdoyouwriteBarstowthatIhavelefthereforaweekorso,andincaseheshouldwantmehemustwritemehere,orletmeknowthroughyou。
TheContractorssaytheywillstriketheFresnonextweek。Afterfoolingwiththoseassayersaweek,theyconcludednottobuy“Mr。Flower“at$50,althoughtheywouldhavegivenfivetimesthesumforitfourmonthsago。SoIhavemadeoutadeedforonehalfofallJohnny”sgroundandacknowledgedandleftinjudgeF。K。Becktel”shands,andifjudgeTurnerwantsithemustwritetoBecktelandpayhimhisNotaryfeeof$1。50。
Iwouldhavepaidthatfeemyself,butIwantmoneynowasIleavetowntonight。However,ifyouthinkitisn”tright,youcanpaythefeetojudgeTurneryourself。
Hangtoyourmoneynow。ImaywantsomewhenIgetback……
Seethatyoukeepoutofdebt-toanybody。BullyforB。!WritehimthatIwouldwritehimmyself,butIamtotakeawalktonightandhaven”ttime。Tellhimtobringhisfamilyoutwithhim。HecanrelyuponwhatIsay——andIsaythelandhaslostitsancientdesolateappearance;theroseandtheoleanderhavetakentheplaceofthedepartedsage-bush;arichblackloam,garnishedwithmoss,andflowers,andthegreenestofgrass,smilestoHeavenfromthevanishedsand-plains;the“endlesssnows“havealldisappeared,andintheirstead,ortorepayusfortheirloss,themountainsreartheirbillowyheadsaloft,crownedwithafadelessandeternalverdure;birds,andfountains,andtrees-tropicalbees——everywhere!——andthepoetdreamtofNevadawhenhewrote:
“andSharonwaves,insolemnpraise,Hersilentgrovesofpalm。”
andtodaytheroyalRavenlistensinadreamystuportothesongsofthethrushandthenightingaleandthecanary——andshudderswhenthegaudy——
plumagedbirdsofthedistantSouthsweepbyhimtotheorangegrovesofCarson。Tellhimhewouldn”trecognizethed——dcountry。Heshouldbringhisfamilybyallmeans。
Iintendedtowritehome,butIhaven”tdoneit。
Yr。Bro。
SAM。
Inthisletterwerealizethathehadgoneintothewildernesstoreflect——togetaperspectiveonthesituation。Hewasagreatwalkerinthosedays,andsometimeswithHigbie,sometimesalone,madelongexcursions。OnesuchisrecordedinRoughingIt,thetriptoMonoLake。Wehavenomeansofknowingwherehisseventy-miletourledhimnow,butitisclearthathestillhadnotreachedadecisiononhisreturn。Indeed,wegatherthatheisinclinedtokeepupthebattleamongthebarrenEsmeraldahills。
Lastminingletter;writtentoMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
ESMERALDA,CAL。,Aug。15,1862。
MYDEARSISTER,-ImailedalettertoyouandMathismorning,butsincethenIhavereceivedyourstoOrionandme。Therefore,Imustanswerrightaway,elseImayleavetownwithoutdoingitatall。Whatinthunderarepilot”swagestome?whichquestion,Ibeghumblytoobserve,isofageneralnature,andnotdischargedparticularlyatyou。Butitissingular,isn”tit,thatsuchamattershouldinterestOrion,whenitisofnoearthlyconsequencetome?Ineverhaveoncethoughtofreturninghometogoontheriveragain,andIneverexpecttodoanymorepilotingatanyprice。Mylivelihoodmustbemadeinthiscountry——
andifIhavetowaitlongerthanIexpected,letitbeso——Ihavenofearoffailure。YouknowIhaveextravaganthopes,forOriontellsyoueverythingwhichheoughttokeeptohimself——butit”shisnaturetodothatsortofthing,andIlethimalone。Ididthinkforawhileofgoinghomethisfall——butwhenIfoundthatthatwasandhadbeenthecherishedintentionandthedarlingaspirationeveryyear,oftheseoldcare-wornCaliforniansfortwelvewearyyears——Ifeltalittleuncomfortable,butIstoleamarchonDisappointmentandsaidIwouldnotgohomethisfall。
IwillspendthewinterinSanFrancisco,ifpossible。DonottellanyonethatIhadanyideaofpilotingagainatpresent——foritisallamistake。Thiscountrysuitsme,and——itshallsuitme,whetherorno……
DanTwingandIandDan”sdog,“cabin“together——andwillcontinuetodosoforawhile——untilIleavefor——
Themansionis10x12,witha“domestic“roof。Yesterdayitrained——thefirstshowerforfivemonths。“Domestic,“itappearstome,isnotwater-proof。Wewentoutsidetokeepfromgettingwet。Danmakesthebedwhenitishisturntodoit——andwhenitismyturn,Idon”t,youknow。Thedogisnotagoodhunter,andheisn”tworthshuckstowatch——
buthescratchesupthedirtfloorofthecabin,andcatchesflies,andmakeshimselfgenerallyusefulinthewayofwashingdishes。Dangetsupfirstinthemorningandmakesafire——andIgetuplastandsitbyit,whilehecooksbreakfast。Wehaveacoldlunchatnoon,andIcooksupper——verymuchagainstmywill。However,onemusthaveonegoodmealaday,andifIweretoliveonDan”sabominablecookery,Ishouldlosemyappetite,youknow。DanattendedDr。Chorpenning”sfuneralyesterday,andhefeltasthoughheoughttowearawhiteshirt——andwehadajollygoodtimefindingsuchanarticle。Weturnedoverallourtraps,andhefoundoneatlast——butIshallalwaysthinkitwassufferingfromyellowfever。Healsofoundanoldblackcoat,greasy,andwrinkledtothatdegreethatitappearedtohavebeenquiltedatsometimeorother。Inthisgorgeouscostumeheattendedthefuneral。Andwhenhereturned,hisowndogdrovehimawayfromthecabin,notrecognizinghim。Thisistrue。
Youwouldnotliketoliveinacountrywhereflourwas$40abarrel?
Verywell;then,Isupposeyouwouldnotliketolivehere,whereflourwas$100abarrelwhenIfirstcamehere。Andshortlyafterwards,itcouldn”tbehadatanyprice——andforonemonththepeoplelivedonbarley,beansandbeef——andnothingbeside。Oh,no——wedidn”tluxuriatethen!Perhapsnot。Butwesaidwiseandseverethingsaboutthevanityandwickednessofhighliving。Wepreachedourdoctrineandpractisedit。WhichcourseIrespectfullyrecommendtotheclergymenofSt。Louis。
WhereisBeackJolly?——[apilot]——andBixby?
YourBrotherSAM。
IV
LETTERS1863-64。“MARKTWAIN。”COMSTOCKJOURNALISM。ARTEMUSWARD
Thereisalonghiatusinthecorrespondencehere。Foraspaceofmanymonthsthereisbutonelettertocontinuethestory。Otherswerewritten,ofcourse,butforsomereasontheyhavenotsurvived。ItwasabouttheendofAugust(1862)whentheminerfinallyabandonedthestruggle,andwithhispackonhisshoulderswalkedtheoneandthirtymilesoverthemountainstoVirginiaCity,arrivingdusty,lame,andtravel-stainedtoclaimatlasthisrightfulinheritance。AttheEnterpriseofficehewaswelcomed,andinabrieftimeenteredintohisown。Goodman,theproprietor,himselfamanofgreatability,hadsurroundedhimselfwithagroupofgay-heartedfellows,whosefresh,wildwayofwritingdelightedtheComstockpioneersfarmorethananysoberpresentationofmerenews。SamuelClemensfittedexactlyintothisgroup。Bytheendoftheyearhehadbecomealeaderofit。WhenheaskedtobeallowedtoreportthecomingCarsonlegislature,Goodmanconsented,realizingthatwhileClemensknewnothingofparliamentaryprocedure,hewouldatleastmaketheletterspicturesque。
Itwasinthemidstofthisworkthatheadoptedthenamewhichhewastomakefamousthroughouttheworld。Thestoryofitsadoptionhasbeenfullytoldelsewhereandneednotberepeatedhere——[SeeMarkTwain:A
Biography,bythesameauthor;ChapterXL。]
“MarkTwain“wasfirstsignedtoaCarsonletter,February2,1863,andfromthattimewasattachedtoallofSamuelClemens”swork。Thelettershadalreadybeenwidelycopied,andthenamenowwhichgavethempersonalityquicklyobtainedvogue。Itwasattachedtohimselfaswellastotheletters;heretoforehehadbeencalledSamorClemens,nowhebecamealmostuniversallyMarkTwainandMark。
ThisearlyperiodofMarkTwain”sjournalismisfullofdelicioushistory,butwearepermittedheretoretellonlysuchofitaswillsupplyconnectiontotheinfrequentletters。HewrotehomebrieflyinFebruary,butthelettercontainednothingworthpreserving。Thentwomonthslaterhegivesusatleastahintofhisemployment。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
VIRGINIA,April11,1863。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Itisverylateatnight,andIamwritinginmyroom,whichisnotquiteaslargeorasniceastheoneIhadathome。Myboard,washingandlodgingcostmeseventy-fivedollarsamonth。
Ihavejustreceivedyourletter,Ma,fromCarson——theoneinwhichyoudoubtmyveracityaboutthestatementsImadeinalettertoyou。That”sright。Idon”trecollectwhatthestatementswere,butIsupposetheywereminingstatistics。Ihavejustfinishedwritingupmyreportforthemorningpaper,andgivingtheUnreliableacolumnofadviceabouthowtoconducthimselfinchurch,andnowIwilltellyouafewmorelies,whilemyhandisin。Forinstance,someoftheboysmademeapresentoffiftyfeetintheEastIndiaG。andS。M。Companytendaysago。Iwasofferedninety-fivedollarsafootforit,yesterday,ingold。Irefusedit——notbecauseIthinktheclaimisworthacentforIdon”tbutbecauseIhadacuriositytoseehowhighitwouldgo,beforepeoplefindouthowworthlessitis。Besides,whatifoneminingclaimdoesfoolme?Ihavegotplentymore。Iamnotinaparticularhurrytogetrich。IsupposeIcouldn”twellhelpgettingrichheresometimeorother,whetherI
wantedtoornot。YoufolksdonotbelieveinNevada,andIamgladyoudon”t。Justkeeponthinkingso。
IwasattheGouldandCurrymine,theotherday,andtheyhadtwoorthreetonsofchoicerockpiledup,whichwasvaluedat$20,000aton。
Igatheredupahat-fullofchunks,onaccountoftheirbeautyasspecimens——theydon”tleteverybodysupplythemselvessoliberally。I
sendMr。Moffettalittlespecimenofitforhiscabinet。Ifyoudon”tknowwhatthewhitestuffonitis,Imustinformyouthatitispurersilverthanthemintedcoin。Thereisaboutasmuchgoldinitasthereissilver,butitisnotvisible。Iwillexplaintoyousomedayhowtodetectit。
Pamela,youwouldn”tdoforalocalreporter——becauseyoudon”tappreciatetheinterestthatattachestonames。Anitemisofnouseunlessitspeaksofsomeperson,andnotthen,unlessthatperson”snameisdistinctlymentioned。Themostinterestingletteronecanwrite,toanabsentfriend,isonethattreatsofpersonshehasbeenacquaintedwithratherthanthepubliceventsoftheday。NowyouspeakofayoungladywhowrotetoHollieBensonthatshehadseenme;andyoudidn”tmentionhername。ItwasjustamerechancethatIeverguessedwhoshewas——butIdid,finally,thoughIdon”trememberhername,now。IwasintroducedtoherinSanFranciscobyHon。A。B。Paul,andsawherafterwardsinGoldHill。Theywereaverypleasantlotofgirls——sheandhersisters。
P。S。Ihavejustheardfivepistolshotsdownstreet——assuchthingsareinmyline,Iwillgoandseeaboutit。
P。S。No2——5A。M——Thepistoldiditsworkwell——oneman——aJacksonCountyMissourian,shottwoofmyfriends,(policeofficers,)throughtheheart——bothdiedwithinthreeminutes。Murderer”snameisJohnCampbell。
The“Unreliable“ofthisletterwasarivalreporteronwhomMarkTwainhadconferredthisnameduringthelegislativesession。HisrealnamewasRice,andhehadundertakentocriticizeClemens”sreports。ThebriskreplythatRice”slettersconcealedwithashowofparliamentaryknowledgea“festeringmassofmisstatementstheauthorofwhomshouldbeproperlytermedthe”Unreliable,“fixedthatnameuponhimforlife。Thisburlesquewarfaredelightedthefrontieranditdidnotinterferewithfriendship。ClemensandRicewereconstantassociates,thoughcontinuallyfiringsquibsateachotherintheirrespectivepapers——aformofpersonaljournalismmuchinvogueontheComstock。
Inthenextletterwefindthesetwojournalistic“blades“enjoyingthemselvestogetherinthecoastmetropolis。Thisletterislabeled“No。2,“meaning,probably,thesecondfromSanFrancisco,butNo。1
hasdisappeared,andevenNo,2isincomplete。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
No。2——($20。00Enclosed)
LICKHOUSE,S。F。,June1,”63。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——TheUnreliableandmyselfarestillhere,andstillenjoyingourselves。IsupposeIknowatleastathousandpeoplehere——a,greatmanyofthemcitizensofSanFrancisco,butthemajoritybelonginginWashoe——andwhenIgodownMontgomerystreet,shakinghandswithTom,DickandHarry,itisjustlikebeinginMainstreetinHannibalandmeetingtheoldfamiliarfaces。IdohatetogobacktoWashoe。Wefagourselvescompletelyouteveryday,andgotosleepwithoutrocking,everynight。Wedineoutandwelunchout,andweeat,drinkandarehappy——asitwere。Afterbreakfast,Idon”toftenseethehotelagainuntilmidnight——orafter。IamgoingtotheDickensmightyfast。Iknowaregularvillageoffamilieshereinthehouse,butIneverhavetimetocallonthem。Thunder!we”llknowalittlemoreaboutthistown,beforeweleave,thansomeofthepeoplewholiveinit。
WetaketripsacrosstheBaytoOakland,anddowntoSanLeandro,andAlameda,andthoseplaces;andwegoouttotheWillows,andHayesPark,andFortPoint,anduptoBenicia;andyesterdaywewereinvitedoutonayachtingexcursion,andhadasailinthefastestyachtonthePacificCoast。Ricesays:“Oh,no——wearenothavinganyfun,Mark——Oh,no,I
reckonnot——it”ssomebodyelse——it”sprobablythe”gentlemaninthewagon”!“(popularslangphrase。)WhenIinviteRicetotheLickHousetodinner,theproprietorssenduschampagneandclaret,andthenwedoputonthemostdisgustingairs。Ricesaysourcalibreistoolight——wecan”tstandittobenoticed!
IrodedownwithagentlemantotheOceanHouse,theotherday,toseetheseahorses,andalsotolistentotheroarofthesurf,andwatchtheshipsdriftingabout,here,andthere,andfarawayatsea。WhenIstoodonthebeachandletthesurfwetmyfeet,IrecollecteddoingthesamethingontheshoresoftheAtlantic——andthenIhadaproperappreciationofthevastnessofthiscountry——forIhadtraveledfromoceantooceanacrossit。
Remaindermissing。)
NotfarfromVirginiaCitytherearesomewarmspringsthatconstantlysendupjetsofsteamthroughfissuresinthemountainside。Theplacewasahealthresort,andClemens,alwayssubjecttobronchialcolds,nowandagainretiredthereforacure。
Aletterwritteninthelatesummer——agay,youthfuldocument——
belongstooneoftheseperiodsofconvalescence。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
No。12——$20enclosed。
STEAMBOATSPRINGS,August19,”63。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Ma,youhavegivenmyvanityadeadlythrust。
Behold,Iampronetoboastofhavingthewidestreputation,asalocaleditor,ofanymanonthePacificcoast,andyougravelycomeforwardandtellme“ifIworkhardandattendcloselytomybusiness,ImayaspiretoaplaceonabigSanFranciscodaily,someday。”There”sacommentonhumanvanityforyou!Why,blastit,IwasundertheimpressionthatI
couldgetsuchasituationasthatanytimeIaskedforit。ButIdon”twantit。NopaperintheUnitedStatescanaffordtopaymewhatmyplaceonthe“Enterprise“isworth。IfIwerenotnaturallyalazy,idle,good-for-nothingvagabond,Icouldmakeitpayme$20,000ayear。
ButIdon”tsupposeIshalleverbeanyaccount。Ileadaneasylife,though,andIdon”tcareacentwhetherschoolkeepsornot。Everybodyknowsme,andIfarelikeaprincewhereverIgo,beitonthissideofthemountainsortheother。AndIamproudtosayIamthemostconceitedassintheTerritory。
Youthinkthatpicturelooksold?Well,Ican”thelpit——inrealityIamnotasoldasIwaswhenIwaseighteen。
Itookadesperatecoldmorethanaweekago,andIseducedWilson(aMissouriboy,reporteroftheDailyUnion,)fromhislabors,andwewentovertoLakeBigler。ButIfailedtocuremycold。Ifoundthe“LakeHouse“crowdedwiththewealthandfashionofVirginia,andIcouldnotresistthetemptationtotakeahandinallthefungoing。ThoseVirginians——menandwomenboth——areastirringset,andIfoundifIwentwiththemonalltheireternalexcursions,Ishouldbringtheconsumptionhomewithme——soIleft,daybeforeyesterday,andcamebackintotheTerritoryagain。AlotofthemhadpurchasedasiteforatownontheLakeshore,andtheygavemealot。Whenyoucomeout,I”llbuildyouahouseonit。TheLakeseemsmoresupernaturallybeautifulnow,thanever。ItisthemasterpieceoftheCreation。
ThehotelhereattheSpringsisnotsomuchcrowdedasusual,andIamhavingaverycomfortabletimeofit。Thehot,whitesteampuffsupoutoffissuresintheearthlikethejetsthatcomefromasteam-boat”s”scapepipes,anditmakesaboiling,surgingnoiselikeasteam-boat,too-hencethename。Weputeggsinahandkerchiefanddiptheminthesprings——they“softboil“in2Minutes,andboilashardasarockin4minutes。Thesefissuresextendmorethanaquarterofamile,andthelonglineofsteamcolumnslooksverypretty。Alargebathhouseisbuiltoveroneofthesprings,andwegoinitandsteamourselvesaslongaswecanstandit,andthencomeoutandtakeacoldshowerbath。
Yougetbaths,boardandlodging,allfor$25aweek——cheaperthanlivinginVirginiawithoutbaths……
YrsaftMARK。
Itwasnowtheautumnof1863。MarkTwainwastwenty-eightyearsold。OntheCoasthehadestablishedareputationasagailyoriginalnewspaperwriter。Thusfar,however,hehadabsolutelynoliterarystanding,noristhereanyevidencethathehadliteraryambitions;hisworkwasunformed,uncultivated——allofwhichseemsstrange,now,whenwerealizethatsomewherebehindlaythesubstanceofimmortality。RudyardKiplingattwenty-eighthaddonehisgreatestwork。
EvenJosephGoodman,whohadafineliteraryperceptionandadeepknowledgeofmen,intimatelyassociatedwithMarkTwainashewas,receivedatthistimenohintofhisgreaterpowers。AnothermanonthestaffoftheEnterprise,WilliamWright,whocalledhimself“DandeQuille,“agracefulhumorist,gavefarmorepromise,Goodmanthought,offuturedistinction。
ItwasArtemusWardwhofirstsuspectedthevalueofMarkTwain”sgifts,andurgedhimtosomemoreimportantuseofthem。Artemusinthecourseofatranscontinentallecturetour,stoppedinVirginiaCity,andnaturallyfoundcongenialsocietyontheEnterprisestaff。
Hehadintendedremainingbutafewdays,butlingeredthreeweeks,aperiodofcontinuouscelebration,closingonlywiththeholidayseason。Duringonenightoffinalfestivities,Wardslippedawayandgaveaperformanceonhisownaccount。HislettertoMarkTwain,fromAustin,Nevada,writtenadayortwolater,ismostcharacteristic。
ArtemusWard”slettertoMarkTwain:
AUSTIN,Jan。1,”64。
MYDEARESTLOVE,——Iarrivedhereyesterdaya。m。at2o”clock。Itisawild,untamableplace,fulloflionheartedboys。Ispeaktonight。Seesmallbills。
Whydidyounotgowithmeandsavemethatnight?——ImeanthenightI
leftyouafterthatdinnerparty。Iwentandgotdrunker,beating,Imaysay,AlexandertheGreat,inhismostdrinkinistdays,andIblackenedmyfaceattheMelodeon,andmadeagibbering,idioticspeech。God-damit!
IsupposetheUnionwillhaveit。Butletitgo。IshallalwaysrememberVirginiaasabrightspotinmyexistence,asallothersmustorrathercannotbe,asitwere。
LovetoJo。GoodmanandDan。Ishallwritesoon,apowerfullyconvincingnotetomyfriendsof“TheMercury。”Yournotice,bytheway,didmuchgoodhere,asitdoubtlesslywillelsewhere。ThemiscreantsoftheUnionwillbebattedinthesnoutiftheyeverdarepollutethisrapidlyrisingcitywiththeirloathsomepresence。
Someofthefinestintellectsintheworldhavebeenbluntedbyliquor。
Donot,sir——donotflatteryourselfthatyouaretheonlychastely-
humorouswriterontothePacificslopes。
Good-bye,oldboy——andGodblessyou!ThematterofwhichIspoketoyousoearnestlyshallbejustasearnestlyattendedto——andagainwithverymanywarmregardsforJo。andDan。,andregardstomanyofthegoodfriendswemet。
IamFaithfully,gratefullyyours,ARTEMUSWARD。
TheUnionwhichWardmentionswastherivalVirginia。Citypaper;
theMercurywastheNewYorkSundayMercury,towhichhehadurgedMarkTwaintocontribute。Wardwroteasecondletter,afterasiegeofillnessatSaltLakeCity。Hewasafrailcreature,andthreeyearslater,inLondon,diedofconsumption。HisgeniusandencouragementundoubtedlyexertedaninfluenceuponMarkTwain。
Ward”ssecondletterherefollows。
ArtemusWardtoS。L。Clemens:
SALTLAKECITY,Jan。21,”64。
MYDEARMARK,——Ihavebeendangerouslyillforthepasttwoweekshere,ofcongestivefever。Verygravefearswereforatimeentertainedofmyrecovery,buthappilythemaladyisgone,thoughleavingmevery,veryweak。Ihopetobeabletoresumemyjourneyinaweekorso。IthinkIshallspeakintheTheaterhere,whichisoneofthefinestestablishmentsofthekindinAmerica。
TheSaintshavebeenwonderfullykindtome,Icouldnothavebeenbetterormoretenderlynursedathome——Godblessthem!
Iamstillexceedinglyweak——can”twriteanymore。LovetoJoandDan,andalltherest。WritemeatSt。Louis。
Alwaysyours,ARTEMUSWARD。
IfonecouldonlyhaveMarkTwain”slettersinreplytothese!buttheyhavevanishedandareprobablylongsincedust。AletterwhichhewrotetohismotherassuresusthatheundertooktofollowWard”sadvice。Hewasnotready,however,forseriousliteraryeffort。
Thearticle,senttotheMercury,wasdistinctlyoftheComstockvariety;itwasaccepted,butitapparentlymadenoimpression,andhedidnotfollowitup。
Foronething,hewasjustthentoobusyreportingtheLegislatureatCarsonCityandrespondingtosocialdemands。FromhavingbeenascarcelyconsideredunitduringtheearlydaysofhisarrivalinCarsonMarkTwainhadattainedahighdegreeofimportanceinthelittleNevadacapital。IntheLegislaturehewasapower;ascorrespondentfortheEnterprisehewasfearedandrespectedaswellasadmired。Hishumor,hissatire,andhisfearlessnessweredreadedweapons。
Also,hewasofextraordinarypopularity。Orion”swife,withherlittledaughter,Jennie,hadcomeoutfromtheStates。TheGovernorofNevadahadnohouseholdinCarsonCity,andwasgenerallyabsent。
OrionClemensreignedinhisstead,andindeedwasusuallyaddressedas“Governor“Clemens。Hishomebecamethesocialcenterofthecapital,andhisbrilliantbrotheritschiefornament。Fromtheroughestofminersofayearbeforehehadbecome,oncemore,almostadandyindress,andnooccasionwascompletewithouthim。WhenthetwoHousesoftheLegislatureassembled,inJanuary,1864,aburlesqueThirdHousewasorganizedandproposedtoholdasession,asachurchbenefit。AfterverybriefconsiderationitwasdecidedtoselectMarkTwaintopresideatthisThirdHouseassemblyunderthetitleof“Governor,“andaletterofinvitationwasaddressedtohim。Hisreplytoitfollows:
ToS。PixleyandG。A。Sears,Trustees:
CARSONCITY,January23,r86?
GENTLEMEN,Certainly。Ifthepubliccanfindanythinginagravestatepaperworthpayingadollarfor,Iamwillingthattheyshouldpaythatamount,oranyother;andalthoughIamnotaverydustyChristianmyself,Itakeanabsorbinginterestinreligiousaffairs,andwouldwillinglyinflictmyannualmessageupontheChurchitselfifitmightderivebenefitthereby。Youcanchargewhatyouplease;Ipromisethepublicnoamusement,butIdopromiseareasonableamountofinstruction。
IamresponsibletotheThirdHouseonly,andIhopetobepermittedtomakeitexceedinglywarmforthatbody,withoutcaringwhetherthesympathiesofthepublicandtheChurchbeenlistedintheirfavor,andagainstmyself,ornot。
Respectfully,MARKTWAIN。
ThereisaqualityinthislettermoresuggestiveofthelaterMarkTwainthananythingthathasprecededit。HisThirdHouseaddress,unfortunately,hasnotbeenpreserved,butthosewhohearditregardeditasaclassic。Itprobablyaboundedinhumorofthefrontiersort-unsparingridiculeoftheGovernor,theLegislature,andindividualcitizens。Itwasalltakeningoodpart,ofcourse,andasarecognitionofhissuccesshereceivedagoldwatch,withthecaseproperlyinscribedto“TheGovernoroftheThirdHouse。”
Thiswasreallyhisfirstpublicappearanceinafieldinwhichhewasdestinedtoachieveverygreatfame。
V
LETTERS1864-66。SANFRANCISCOANDHAWAII
LifeontheComstockcametoanendforMarkTwaininMay,1864。ItwasthetimeofTheFlourSackSanitaryFund,thestoryofwhichhehastoldinRoughingIt。Hedoesnot,however,refertothetroubleswhichthisspecialfundbroughtuponhimself。ComingintotheEnterpriseofficeonenight,afteragaydayof“Fund“
celebration,Clemenswrote,fornextday”spaper,aparagraphintendedtobemerelyplayful,butwhichprovedhighlyoffendingtocertainladiesconcernedwiththeflour-sackenterprise。Nofilesofthepaperexisttoday,sowecannotjudgeofthequalityofhumorthatstirreduptrouble。
Thetrouble,however,wasgenuineenough,Virginia”srivalpaperseizeduponthechancetohumiliateitsenemy,andpresentlywordswerepassedbackandforthuntilnothingwaslefttowritebutachallenge。Thestoryofthisduel,whichdidnotcomeoff,hasbeenquitefullytoldelsewhere,bothbyMarkTwainandthepresentwriter;butthefollowingletter——arevelationofhisinnerfeelingsinthematterofhisoffense——hasneverbeforebeenpublished。
ToMrs。Cutler,inCarsonCity:
VIRGINIA,May23rd,1864。
MRS。W。K。CUTLER:
MADAM,——Iaddressaladyineverysenseoftheterm。Mrs。ClemenshasinformedmeofeverythingthathasoccurredinCarsoninconnectionwiththatunfortunateitemofmineabouttheSanitaryFundsaccruingfromtheball,andfromwhatIcanunderstand,youarealmosttheonlyladyinyourcitywhohasunderstoodthecircumstancesunderwhichmyfaultwascommitted,orwhohasshownanydispositiontobelenientwithme。Hadthenoteoftheladiesbeenproperlyworded,Iwouldhavepublishedanampleapologyinstantly——andpossiblyImightevenhavedonesoanyhow,hadthatnotearrivedatanyothertime——butitcameatamomentwhenI
wasinthemidstofwhatoughttohavebeenadeadlyquarrelwiththepublishersoftheUnion,andIcouldnotcomeoutandmakepublicapologiestoanyoneatsuchatime。Itisbadpolicytodoitevennow(aschallengeshavealreadypassedbetweenmyselfandaproprietoroftheUnion,andthematterisstillinabeyance,)butIsupposeIhadbettersayawordortwotoshowtheladiesthatIdidnotwilfullyandmaliciouslydothemawrong。
Butmychiefobject,Mrs。Cutler,inwritingyouthisnote(andyouwillpardonthelibertyIhavetaken,)wastothankyouverykindlyandsincerelyfortheconsiderationyouhaveshownmeinthismatter,andforyourcontinuedfriendshipforMolliewhileothersaredisposedtowithdrawtheirsonaccountofafaultforwhichIaloneamresponsible。
Verytrulyyours,SAM。L。CLEMENS。
Thematterdidnotendwiththefailureoftheduel。Averystrictlawhadjustbeenpassed,makingitafelonyeventosendoracceptachallenge。Clemens,onthewhole,rathertiredofVirginiaCityandCarson,thoughtitagoodtimetogoacrossthemountainstoSanFrancisco。WithSteveGillis,aprinter,ofwhomhewasveryfond——
aninveteratejoker,whohadbeenmorethanhalfresponsiblefortheproposedduel,andwastohaveservedashissecond——hetookthestageonemorning,andinduetimewasintheCaliforniametropolis,atworkontheMorningCall。
ClemenshadbeenseveraltimesinSanFrancisco,andlovedtheplace。Wehavenoletterofthatsummer,thefirstbeingdatedseveralmonthsafterhisarrival。HewasstillworkingontheCallwhenitwaswritten,andcontributingliteraryarticlestotheCalifornian,ofwhichBretHarte,unknowntofame,waseditor。
HartehadhisofficejustabovetheroomsoftheCall,andheandClemensweregoodfriends。SanFranciscohadarealliterarygroupthat,foratimeatleast,centeredaroundtheofficesoftheGoldenEra。InaletterthatfollowsClemenswouldseemtohavescornedthispublication,buthewasafrequentcontributortoitatoneperiod。JoaquinMillerwasofthisbandofliterarypioneers;alsoPrenticeMulford,CharlesWarrenStoddard,FitzhughLudlow,andOrpheusC。Kerr。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
Sept。25,1864。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Youcanseebymypicturethatthissuperbclimateagreeswithme。Anditought,afterlivingwhereIwasneveroutofsightofsnowpeakstwenty-fourhoursduringthreeyears。Herewehaveneithersnownorcoldweather;firesareneverlighted,andyetsummerclothesareneverworn——youwearspringclothingtheyearround。
SteveGillis,whohasbeenmycomradefortwoyears,andwhocamedownherewithme,istobemarried,inaweekortwo,toaveryprettygirlworth$130,000inherownright——andthenIshallbealoneagain,untiltheybuildahouse,whichtheywilldoshortly。
Wehavebeenhereonlyfourmonths,yetwehavechangedourlodgingsfivetimes,andourhoteltwice。Weareverycomfortablyfixedwhereweare,now,andhavenofaulttofindwiththeroomsorwiththepeople——wearetheonlylodgersinawell-to-doprivatefamily,withonegrowndaughterandapianointheparloradjoiningourroom。ButIneedachange,andmustmoveagain。Ihavetakenroomsfurtherdownthestreet。Ishallstayinthislittlequietstreet,becauseitisfullofgardensandshrubbery,andtherearenonebutdwellinghousesinit。
Iamtakinglifeeasy,now,andImeantokeepitupforawhile。Idon”tworkatnightanymore。Itoldthe“Call“folkstopayme$25aweekandletmeworkonlyindaylight。SoIgetupatteneverymorning,andquitworkatfiveorsixintheafternoon。YouaskifIworkforgreenbacks?
Hardly。WhatdoyousupposeIcoulddowithgreenbackshere?
Ihaveengagedtowriteforthenewliterarypaper——the“Californian“——
samepayIusedtoreceiveonthe“GoldenEra“——onearticleaweek,fiftydollarsamonth。Iquitthe“Era,“longago。Itwasn”thigh-tonedenough。The“Californian“circulatesamongthehighestclassofthecommunity,andisthebestweeklyliterarypaperintheUnitedStates——andIsupposeIoughttoknow。
IworkasIalwaysdid——byfitsandstarts。IwrotetwoarticleslastnightfortheCalifornian,sothatletsmeoutfortwoweeks。Thatwouldbeaboutseventy-fivedollars,ingreenbacks,wouldn”tit?
BeendowntoSanJose(generallypronouncedSannozay-emphasisonlastsyllable)-todayfiftymilesfromhere,byrailroad。Townof6,000
inhabitants,buriedinflowersandshrubbery。Theclimateisfinerthanourshere,becauseitisnotsoclosetotheocean,andisprotectedfromthewindsbythecoastrange。
Ihadaninvitationtoday,togodownonanexcursiontoSanLuisObispo,andfromthencetothecityofMexico,tobegonesixoreightweeks,orpossiblylonger,butIcouldnotaccept,onaccountofmycontracttoactaschiefmournerorgroomsmanatSteve”swedding。
Ihavetriumphed。TheyrefusedmeandotherreporterssomeinformationatabranchoftheCoroner”soffice——Massey”sundertakerestablishment,afewweeksago。IpublishedthewickedestarticleonthemIeverwroteinmylife,andyoucanrestassuredwegotalltheinformationwewantedafterthat。
Bythenewcensus,SanFranciscohasapopulationof130,000。Theydon”tcountthehordesofChinamen。
Yrsaftly,SAM。
IsendapictureforAnnie,andoneforAuntElla——thatis,ifshewillhaveit。
RelationswiththeCallceasedbeforetheendoftheyear,thoughnotinthemannerdescribedinRoughingIt。MarkTwainlovedtomakefictionofhismishaps,andtoshowhimselfalwaysinabadlight。Asamatteroffact,helefttheCallwithgreatwillingness,andbeganimmediatelycontributingadailylettertotheEnterprise,whichbroughthimasatisfactoryfinancialreturn。
Inthebiographicalsketchwithwhichthisvolumeopens,andmoreextendedlyelsewhere,hasbeentoldthestoryofthetroublegrowingoutoftheEnterpriseletters,andofMarkTwain”ssojournwithJamesGillisintheTuolumneHills。Alsohow,inthefrowsyhotelatAngel”sCamp,heheardthefroganecdotethatwouldbecomethecorner-stoneofhisfame。Therearenolettersofthisperiod——onlysomenote-bookentries。Itisprobablethathedidnotwritehome,believing,nodoubt,thathehadverylittletosay。
Formorethanayearthereisnotalinethathassurvived。Yetithadbeenanimportantyear;thejumpingfrogstory,publishedinNewYork,hadbeenreprintedEastandWest,andlaughedoverinatleastamillionhomes。Famehadnotcometohim,butitwasontheway。
Yethisoutlookseemsnottohavebeenahopefulone。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
SANFRANCISCO,Jan。20,1866。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Idonotknowwhattowrite;mylifeissouneventful。IwishIwasbacktherepilotingupanddowntheriveragain。Verily,allisvanityandlittleworth——savepiloting。
Tothinkthat,afterwritingmanyanarticleamanmightbeexcusedforthinkingtolerablygood,thoseNewYorkpeopleshouldsingleoutavillainousbackwoodssketchtocomplimentmeon!“JimSmileyandHisJumpingFrog“——asquibwhichwouldneverhavebeenwrittenbuttopleaseArtemusWard,andthenitreachedNewYorktoolatetoappearinhisbook。
Butnomatter。Hisbookwasawretchedlypoorone,generallyspeaking,anditcouldbenocredittoeitherofustoappearbetweenitscovers。
ThisparagraphisfromtheNewYorkcorrespondenceoftheSanFranciscoAlta:
(Clippingpastedin。)
“MarkTwain”sstoryintheSaturdayPressofNovemberi8th,called”JimSmileyandHisJumpingFrog”hassetallNewYorkinaroar,andhemaybesaidtohavemadehismark。Ihavebeenaskedfiftytimesaboutitanditsauthor,andthepapersarecopyingitfarandnear。Itisvotedthebestthingoftheday。CannottheCalifornianaffordtokeepMarkalltoitself?ItshouldnotlethimscintillatesowidelywithoutfirstbeingfilteredthroughtheCaliforniapress。”
TheNewYorkpublishinghouseofCarleton&Co。gavethesketchtotheSaturdayPresswhentheyfounditwastoolateforthebook。
ThoughIamgenerallyplacedattheheadofmybreedofscribblersinthispartofthecountry,theplaceproperlybelongstoBretHarte,Ithink,thoughhedeniesit,alongwiththerest。Hewantsmetoclubalotofoldsketchestogetherwithalotofhis,andpublishabook。
Iwouldn”tdoit,onlyheagreestotakeallthetrouble。ButIwanttoknowwhetherwearegoingtomakeanythingoutofit,first。However,hehaswrittentoaNewYorkpublisher,andifweareofferedabargainthatwillpayforamonth”slaborwewillgotoworkandpreparethevolumeforthepress。
Yoursaffy,SAM。
BretHarteandClemenshadbythistimequittheCalifornian,expectingtocontributetoEasternperiodicals。Clemens,however,wasnotyetthroughwithCoastjournalism。TherewasmuchinterestjustatthistimeintheSandwichIslands,andhewasselectedbytheforemostSacramentopapertospyouttheislandsandreportaspectsandconditionsthere。Hislettershomewerestillinfrequent,butthiswassomethingworthwriting。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
SANFRANCISCO,March5th,1866。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——IstarttodoSandwichIslandsdayaftertomorrow,(IsupposeAnnieisgeographerenoughbythistimetofindthemonthemap),inthesteamer“Ajax。”Weshallarrivethereinabouttwelvedays。MyfriendsseemdeterminedthatIshallnotlackacquaintances,forIonlydecidedtodaytogo,andtheyhavealreadysentmelettersofintroductiontoeverybodydownthereworthknowing。Iamtoremainthereamonthandransacktheislands,thegreatcataractsandthevolcanoescompletely,andwritetwentyorthirtyletterstotheSacramentoUnion——forwhichtheypaymeasmuchmoneyasIwouldgetifI
staidathome。
IfIcomebackhereIexpecttostartstraightacrossthecontinentbywayoftheColumbiariver,thePendd”OreilleLakes,throughMontanaanddowntheMissouririver,——only200milesoflandtravelfromSanFranciscotoNewOrleans。
Goodbyeforthepresent。
Yours,SAM。
Hishomelettersfromtheislandsarenumerousenough;everythingtherebeingsonewandsodelightfulthathefoundjoyintellingofit;also,hewasstillyoungenoughtoairhistriumphsalittle,especiallywhenhehasdinedwiththeGrandChamberlainandisgoingtovisittheKing!
ThelanguorouslifeoftheislandsexactlysuitedMaskTwain。Allhislifeherememberedthem——alwaysplanningtoreturn,someday,tostaythereuntilhedied。Inoneofhisnote-bookshewrote:“WentwithMr。Damtohiscool,vine-shadedhome;nocare-wornoreager,anxiousfacesinthislandofhappycontentment。God,whatacontrastwithCaliforniaandtheWashoe!“
Andagain:
“Oh,IslandsthereareonthefaceofthedeepWheretheleavesneverfadeandtheskiesneverweep。”
Theletterstellthestoryofhissojourn,whichstretcheditselfintonearlyfivemonths。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
HONOLULU,SANDWICHISLANDS,April3,1866。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Ihavebeenheretwoorthreeweeks,andlikethebeautifultropicalclimatebetterandbetter。Ihaveriddenonhorsebackalloverthisisland(Oahu)inthemeantime,andhavevisitedalltheancientbattle-fieldsandotherplacesofinterest。IhavegotalotofhumanboneswhichItookfromoneofthesebattle-fields——IguessIwillbringyousomeofthem。IwentwiththeAmericanMinisterandtookdinnerthiseveningwiththeKing”sGrandChamberlain,whoisrelatedtotheroyalfamily,andalthoughdarkerthanamulatto,hehasanexcellentEnglisheducationandinmannersisanaccomplishedgentleman。ThedinnerwasasceremoniousasanyIeverattendedinCalifornia——fiveregularcourses,andfivekindsofwineandoneofbrandy。Heistocallformeinthemorningwithhiscarriage,andwewillvisittheKingatthepalace——botharegoodMasons——theKingisaRoyalArchMason。Afterdinnertonighttheycalledinthe“singinggirls,“andwehadsomebeautifulmusic;sunginthenativetongue。
ThesteamerIcamehereinsailstomorrow,andassoonassheisgoneI
shallsailfortheotherislandsofthegroupandvisitthegreatvolcano——thegrandwonderoftheworld。Begonetwomonths。
Yrs。
SAM。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
WAILUKUSUGARPLANTATION,ISLANDOFMAUI,H。I。,May4,1866。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——11O”clockatnight——Thisistheinfernalistdarkestcountry,whenthemoondon”tshine;Istumbledandfellovermyhorse”slariataminuteagoandhurtmyleg,soImuststayheretonight。
Igotthesameleghurtlastweek;IsaidIhadn”tgotholdofaspiritedhorsesinceIhadbeenontheisland,andoneoftheproprietorsloanedmeabigviciouscolt;hewasaltogethertoospirited;Iwenttotightenthecinchbeforemountinghim,whenheletoutwithhisleftleg(?)andkickedmeacrossaten-acrelot。AnativerubbedanddoctoredmesowellthatIwasabletostandonmyfeetinhalfanhour。ItwasthenhalfafterfourandIhadanappointmenttogosevenmilesandgetagirlandtakehertoacardpartyatfive。
Ihavebeenclatteringaroundamongtheplantationsforthreeweeks,now,andnextweekIamgoingtovisittheextinctcraterofMountHaleakala——
thelargestintheworld;itistenmilestothefootofthemountain;itrises10,000feetabovethevalley;thecrateris29milesincircumferenceand1,000feetdeep。Seenfromthesummit,thecityofSt。
Louiswouldlooklikeapictureinthebottomofit。
AssoonasIgetbackfromHaleakala(pronouncedHally-ekka-lah)IwillsailforHonoluluagainandthencetotheIslandofHawaii(pronouncedHah-wy-ye,)toseethegreatestactivevolcanointheworld——thatofKilauea(pronouncedKee-low-way-ah)——andfromthencebacktoSanFrancisco——andthen,doubtless,totheStates。Ihavebeenonthistriptwomonths,anditwillprobablybetwomorebeforeIgetbacktoCalifornia。
YrsaffySAM。
Hewashavingaglorioustime——oneofthemosthappy,carefreeadventuresofhiscareer。NoformoftravelorundertakingcoulddiscountenanceMarkTwainatthirty。
ToMrs。OrionClemens,inCarsonCity:
HONOLULU,May22,1866。
MYDEARSISTER,——Ihavejustgotbackfromaseavoyage——fromthebeautifulislandofMaui,Ihavespentfiveweeksthere,ridingbackwardsandforwardsamongthesugarplantations——lookingupthesplendidsceneryandvisitingtheloftycraterofHaleakala。Ithasbeenaperfectjubileetomeinthewayofpleasure。
Ihavenotwrittenasingleline,andhavenotoncethoughtofbusiness,orcareorhumantoilortroubleorsorroworweariness。Fewsuchmonthscomeinalifetime。
Isetsailagain,aweekhence,fortheislandofHawaii,toseethegreatactivevolcanoofKilauea。Ishallnotgetbackhereforfourorfiveweeks,andshallnotreachSanFranciscobeforethelatterpartofJuly。
Soitisnousetowaitformetogohome。Goonyourselves。
IfIwereintheeastnow,Icouldstopthepublicationofapiraticalbookwhichhasstolensomeofmysketches。
Itislate-good-bye,Mollie,YrBroSAM。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
HONOLULU,SANDWICHISLANDS,June21,1866。
MYDEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——IhavejustgotbackfromahardtripthroughtheIslandofHawaii,begunonthe26thofMayandfinishedonthe18thofJune——onlysixorsevendaysatsea——allthebalancehorse-back,andthehardestmountainroadintheworld。Istaidatthevolcanoaboutaweekandwitnessedthegreatesteruptionthathasoccurredforyears。
Ilivedwellthere。Theycharge$4adayforboard,andadollarortwoextraforguidesandhorses。Ihadaprettygoodtime。Theydidn”tchargemeanything。Ihavegotbacksick——wenttobedassoonasI
arrivedhere——shallnotbestrongagainforseveraldaysyet。Irushedtoofast。Ioughttohavetakenfiveorsixweeksonthattrip。
AweekhenceIstartfortheIslandofKauai,tobegonethreeweeksandthenIgobacktoCalifornia。
TheCrownPrincessisdeadandthousandsofnativescryandwailanddanceanddanceforthedead,aroundtheKing”sPalaceallnightandeverynight。Theywillkeepitupforamonthandthenshewillbeburied。
Hon。AnsonBurlingame,U。S。MinistertoChina,andGen。VanValkenburgh,MinistertoJapan,withtheirfamiliesandsuites,havejustarrivedhereenroute。Theyweregoingtodomethehonortocallonmethismorning,andthataccountsformybeingoutofbednow。Youknowwhatconditionmyroomisalwaysinwhenyouarenotaround——soIclimbedoutofbedanddressedandshavedprettyquickandwentuptotheresidenceoftheAmericanMinisterandcalledonthem。Mr。BurlingametoldmeagooddealaboutHon。JereClemensandthatVirginiaClemenswhowaswoundedinaduel。HewasinCongressyearswithbothofthem。Mr。B。sentforhisson,tointroducehim——saidhecouldtellthatfrogstoryofmineaswellasanybody。ItoldhimIwasgladtohearitforInevertriedtotellitmyselfwithoutmakingabotchofit。AthisrequestIhaveloanedMr。
BurlingameprettymucheverythingIeverwrote。Iguesshewillbeanalmightywisemanbythetimehewadesthroughthatlot。
IftheNewUnitedStatesMinistertotheSandwichIslands(Hon。EdwinMcCook,)wereonlyherenow,sothatIcouldgethisviewsonthisnewconditionofSandwichIslandpolitics,IwouldsailforCaliforniaatonce。ButhewillnotarrivefortwoweeksyetandsoIamgoingtospendthatintervalontheislandofKauai。
IstoppedthreedayswithHon。Mr。Cony,DeputyMarshaloftheKingdom,atHilo,Hawaii,lastweekandbyafunnycircumstancehekneweverybodythatIeverknewinHannibalandPalmyra。Weusedtositupallnighttalkingandthensleepallday。HeliveslikeaPrince。ConfoundthatIsland!Ihadastreakoffatandastreakofleanalloverit——gotlostseveraltimesandhadtosleepinhutswiththenativesandlivelikeadog。
OfcourseIcouldn”tspeakfiftywordsofthelanguage。Takeitaltogether,though,itwasamightyhardtrip。
YoursAffect。
SAM。
BurlingameandVanValkenburghwereontheirwaytotheirposts,andtheircomingtotheislandsjustatthistimeprovedamostimportantcircumstancetoMarkTwain。Weshallcometothispresently,inasummaryofthenewspaperletterswrittentotheUnion。June27thhewrotetohismotherandsisteraletter,onlyafragmentofwhichsurvives,inwhichhetellsofthearrivalinHonoluluofthesurvivorsoftheshipHornet,burnedontheline,andofhissecuringthefirstnewsreportofthelostvessel。
PartofalettertoMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
HONOLULU,June27,1866……withagillofwateradaytoeachman。Igotthewholestoryfromthethirdmateandtwoofthesailors。IfmyaccountgetstotheSacramentoUnionfirst,itwillbepublishedfirstallovertheUnitedStates,France,England,RussiaandGermany——allovertheworld;Imaysay。Youwillseeit。Mr。Burlingamewentwithmeallthetime,andhelpedmequestionthemen——throwingawayinvitationstodinnerwiththeprincesandforeigndignitaries,andneglectingallsortsofthingstoaccommodateme。YouknowhowIappreciatethatkindofthing——especiallyfromsuchaman,whoisacknowledgedtohavenosuperiorinthediplomaticcirclesoftheworld,andobtainedfromChinaconcessionsinfavorofAmericawhichwererefusedtoSirFrederickBruceandEnvoysofFranceandRussiauntilprocuredforthembyBurlingamehimself——whichservicewasdulyacknowledgedbythosedignitaries。Hehuntedmeupassoonashecamehere,andhasdonemeahundredfavorssince,andsaysifIwillcometoChinainthefirsttripofthegreatmailsteamernextJanuaryandmakehishouseinPekinmyhome,hewillaffordmefacilitiesthatfewmencanhavethereforseeingandlearning。HewillgivemeletterstothechiefsofthegreatMailSteamshipCompanywhichwillbeofservicetomeinthismatter。Iexpecttodoallthis,butIexpecttogototheStatesfirst——andfromChinatotheParisWorld”sFair。
Don”tshowthisletter。
YoursafflySAM。
P。S。ThecrownPrincessofthisKingdomwillbeburiedtomorrowwithgreatceremony——afterthatIsailintwoweeksforCalifornia。
ThisconcludesMarkTwain”spersonallettersfromtheislands。
Ofhisdescriptivenewsletterstherewereabouttwenty,andtheywereregardedbythereadersoftheUnionasdistinctlynotable。
Re-readingthoseoldlettersto-dayitisnotaltogethereasytounderstandwhy。Theyweresetinfinenonpareiltype,foronething,whichpresent-dayeyessimplyrefuseatanyprice,andthereward,bypresent-daystandards,isnotespeciallytempting。
ThelettersbeganintheUnionwiththeissueofAprilthe16th,1866。Thefirst——ofdateMarch18th——tellsofthewriter”sarrivalatHonolulu。Thehumorinitisnotalwaysofahighorder;itwouldhardlypassforhumortodayatall。ThatthesamemanwhowrotetheHawaiianlettersin1866(hewasthenoverthirtyyearsold)could,twoyearslater,havewrittenthatmarvelousbook,theInnocentsAbroad,isaphenomenoninliterarydevelopment。
TheHawaiianletters,however,doshowthetransitionstagebetweentheroughelementalhumoroftheComstockandtherefinedandsubtlestylewhichfloweredintheInnocentsAbroad。CertainlyMarkTwain”sgeniuswasfindingitself,andhisassociationwiththerefinedandculturedpersonalityofAnsonBurlingameundoubtedlyaidedinthatdiscovery。Burlingamepointedouthisfaultstohim,anddirectedhimtoabetterway。Nomorethanthatwasneededatsuchatimetobringaboutatransformation。
TheSandwichIslandsletters,however,musthavebeenpreciselyadaptedtotheiraudience——alittlemorerefinedthanthelogComstock,alittlelesssubtlethantheAtlanticpublic——andtheyaddedmateriallytohisCoastprestige。ButletusconsiderasampleextractfromthefirstSandwichIslandsletter:
Ourlittlebandofpassengerswereaswellandthoughtfullycaredforbythefriendstheyleftweepinguponthewharf,aseverwereanysimilarbodyofpilgrims。Thetravelingoutfitconferreduponmebeganwithanavaluniform,continuedwithacaseofwine,asmallassortmentofmedicinalliquorsandbrandy,severalboxesofcigars,abunchofmatches,afine-toothedcomb,andacakeofsoap,andendedwithapairofsocks。(N。B。IgavethesoaptoBrown,whobitintoit,andthen。
shookhisheadandsaidthat,asageneralthing,helikedtoprospectcurious,foreigndishes,andfindoutwhattheyweremadeof,buthecouldn”tgothat,andthrewitoverboard。)
Itisnearlyimpossibletoimaginehumorinthisextract,yetitisafairsampleoftheentireletter。
Heimprovesinhisnext,atleast,indescription,andgivesusapictureofthecrater。Inthisletter,also,hewriteswellandseriously,inapropheticstrain,ofthegreattradethatistobeestablishedbetweenSanFranciscoandHawaii,andarguesforalineofsteamersbetweentheports,inorderthattheislandsmightbepopulatedbyAmericans,bywhichcourseEuropeantradeinthatdirectioncouldbesuperseded。Butthehumorinthisletter,suchasitis,wouldscarcelyprovokeasmileto-day。
Astheletterscontinue,hestillurgesthefosteringoftheislandtradebytheUnitedStates,findshimselfimpressedbytheworkofthemissionaries,whohaveconvertedcannibalstoChristians,andgivespicturesquebitsofthelifeandscenery。
HawaiiwasthendominatedchieflybyFrenchandEnglish;thoughtheAmericaninterestswerebynomeanssmall。
ExtractfromletterNo。4:
Cap。Fitchsaid“There”stheking。That”shiminthebuggy。IknowhimasfarasIcanseehim。”
Ihadneverseenaking,andInaturallytookoutanote-bookandputhimdown:“Tall,slender,dark,full-bearded;greenfrock-coat,withlapelsandcollarborderedwithgoldbandaninchwide;plughat,broadgoldbandaroundit;royalcostumelookstoomuchlikelivery;thismanisnotasfleshyasIthoughthewas。
IhadjustgotthesenoteswhenCap。Fitchdiscoveredthathe”dgotholdofthewrongking,orrather,thathe”dgotholdoftheking”sdriver,oracarriagedriverofoneofthenobility。Thekingwasn”tpresentatall。Itwasagreatdisappointmenttome。Iheardafterwardsthatthecomfortable,easy-goingking,KamehamehaV。,hadbeenseensittingonabarrelonthewharf,thedaybefore,fishing。Buttherewasnoconsolationinthat。Thatdidnotrestorememylostking。
Thishassomethingoftheflavorofthemanweweretoknowlater;
thequaint,gentleresignationtodisappointmentwhichisoneofthefinesttouchesinhishumor。
Furtheronhesays:“IhadnotshavedsinceIleftSanFrancisco。
AssoonasIgotashoreIhuntedupastripedpole,andshortlyfoundone。Ialwayshadayearningtobeaking。Thismayneverbe,Isuppose,but,atanyrate,itwillalwaysbeasatisfactiontometoknowthat,ifIamnotaking,Iamthenextthingtoit。
Ihavebeenshavedbytheking”sbarber。”
Honoluluwasaplaceofcats。Hesawcatsofeveryshadeandvariety。Hesays:“Isawcats——tomcats,Mary-Anncats,bobtailedcats,blindcats,one-eyedcats,wall-eyedcats,cross-eyedcats,graycats,blackcats,whitecats,yellowcats,stripedcats,spottedcats,tamecats,wildcats,singedcats,individualcats,groupsofcats,platoonsofcats,companiesofcats,armiesofcats,multitudesofcats,millionsofcats,andallofthemsleek,fat,andlazy,andsoundasleep。”Whichillustratesanothercharacteristicofthehumorweweretoknowlater——thehumorofgrotesqueexaggeration,inwhichhewasalwaysstrong。
Hefoundtheislandsduringhisperiodsofinactionconducivetoindolence。“IfIwerenotsofondoflookingintotherichmassofgreenleaves,“hesays,“thatswathethestatelytamarindrightbeforemydoor,Iwouldidleless,andwritemore,Ithink。”
TheUnionmadegooduseofhisletters。Sometimesitprintedthemonthefrontpage。Evidentlytheywerepopularfromthebeginning。
TheUnionwasafine,handsomepaper——beautifulinitsminutetypography,andinitspress-work;morebeautifulthanmostpapersofto-day,withtheirmachine-settype,theirvulgarillustrations,andtheirchain-lightningpresses。Afewmoreextracts:
“Theonlycigarsherearethosetrifling,insipid,tasteless,flavorlessthingstheycallManilas——tenfortwenty-fivecents——anditwouldtakeathousandofthemtobeworthhalfthemoney。Afteryouhavesmokedaboutthirty-fivedollars”worthofthemintheforenoon,youfeelnothingbutadesperateyearningtogooutsomewhereandtakeasmoke。”
“Captainsandministersformabouthalfthepopulation。ThethirdfourthiscomposedofKanakasandmercantileforeignersandtheirfamilies。ThefinalfourthismadeupofhighofficersoftheHawaiiangovernment,andtherearejustaboutenoughcatstogoround。”
InNo。6,Aprilthe2d,hesays:“AnexcursiontoDiamondHead,andtheking”scocoanutgrove,wasplannedto-day,at4。30P。M。,thepartytoconsistofhalfadozengentlemenandthreeladies。Theyallstartedattheappointedhourexceptmyself。Somebodyremarkedthatitwastwentyminutespastfiveo”clock,andthatwokemeup。
ItwasafortunatecircumstancethatCap。Phillipswastherewithhis”turn-out”ashecallshistopbuggythatCap。Cookbroughtherein1778,andahorsethatwasherewhenCap。Cookcame。”
Thisbithassomethingthesavorofhissubsequentwork,but,asarule,thehumorcomparespoorlywiththatwhichwastocomelater。
InNo。7hespeaksofthenativessingingAmericansongs——notalwaystohiscomfort。“MarchingThroughGeorgia“wasoneoftheirfavoriteairs。Hesays:“IfithadbeenallthesametoGen。
Sherman,IwishhehadgonearoundbythewayoftheGulfofMexico,insteadofmarchingthroughGeorgia。”
LettersNos。8,9,and10werenotofspecialimportance。InNo。10
hegivessomeadvicetoSanFranciscoastothetreatmentofwhalers。Hesays:
“IfIweregoingtoadviseSanFranciscoastothebeststrategytoemployinordertosecurethewhalingtrade,Ishouldsay,”Crippleyourfacilitiesfor“pulling“seacaptainsonanypretencethatsailorscantrumpup,andshowthewhaleralittlemoreconsiderationwhenheisinport。””
InNo。11,May24th,hetellsofatriptotheKalehiValley,andthroughhistoricpoints。AtoneplacehelookedfromaprecipiceoverwhicholdKamehamehaI。drovethearmyofOahu,three-quartersofacenturybefore。
Thevegetationandgloryofthetropicsattractedhim。“Inoneopenspotavineofaspeciesunknownhadtakenpossessionoftwotalldeadstumps,andwoundaroundandaboutthem,andswungoutfromtheirtops,andtwinedtheirmeetingtendrilstogetherintoafaultlessarch。Man,withallhisart,couldnotimproveuponitssymmetry。”
HesawSamBrannan”spalace,“TheBungalow,“builtbyoneShillaberofSanFranciscoatacostoffromthirtytofortythousanddollars。
Initsdayithadoutshoneitsregalneighbor,thepalaceoftheking,buthadfallentodecayafterpassingintoBrannan”shands,andhadbecomeapicturesqueThebanruinbythetimeofMarkTwain”svisit。
InNo。12,June20th(writtenMay23d),hetellsoftheHawaiianLegislature,andofhistriptotheislandofMaui,where,ashesays,heneverspentsopleasantamonthbefore,orbadeanyplacegood-bysoregretfully。
InNo。13hecontinuestheLegislature,andgivesthispictureofMinisterHarris:“Heissixfeethigh,bonyandratherslender;
long,ungainlyarms;standssostraightheleansbackalittle;hassmallsidewhiskers;hisheadlong,upanddown;hehasnocommandoflanguageorideas;oratoryallshowandpretence;abigwashingandasmallhang-out;weak,insipid,andadamnfoolingeneral。”
InNo。14,June22d,publishedJulyi6th,hetellsofthedeathandburialceremoniesofthePrincessVictoriaK。K。,and,whatwastobeofmoreimportancetohim,ofthearrivalofAnsonBurlingame,U。S。MinistertoChina,andGen。VanValkenburgh,U。S。MinistertoJapan。Theyweretostaytenorfourteendays,hesaid,butaneffortwouldbemadetohavethemstayoverJuly4th。
SpeakingofBurlingame:“Burlingameisamanwhocouldbeesteemed,respected,andpopularanywhere,nomatterwhetherhewasamongChristiansorcannibals。”Then,inthesameletter,comesthegreatincident。“Aletterarrivedhereyesterday,givingameagreaccountofthearrival,ontheIslandofHawaii,ofnineteenpoor,starvingwretches,whohadbeenbuffetingastormysea,inanopenboat,forforty-threedays。Theirship,theHornet,fromNewYork,withaquantityofkeroseneonboardhadtakenfireandburnedinLat。2d。
north,andLong。35d。west。Whentheyhadbeenentirelyoutofprovisionsforadayortwo,andthecravingsofhungerbecomeinsufferable,theyyieldedtotheship-wreckedmariner”sfearfulandawfulalternative,andsolemnlydrewlotstodeterminewhooftheirnumbershoulddie,tofurnishfoodforhiscomrades;andthenthemorningmistslifted,andtheysawland。TheyarebeingcaredforatSanpahoe(Notyetcorroborated)。”
TheHornetdisasterwasfullytoldinhisletterofJune27th。ThesurvivorswerebroughttoHonolulu,andwiththeassistanceoftheBurlingameparty,Clemens,laidupwithsaddleboils,wascarriedonastretchertothehospital,where,aidedbyBurlingame,heinterviewedtheshipwreckedmen,securingmaterialforthemostimportantpieceofseriouswritinghehadthusfarperformed。
LetterNo。15totheUnion——ofdateJune25th——occupiedthemostofthefirstpageintheissueofJuly19。Itwasadetailedaccountofthesufferingsofofficersandcrew,asgivenbythethirdofficerandmembersofthecrew。
FromletterNo。15:
InthepostscriptofaletterwhichIwrotetwoorthreedaysago,andsentbytheship“LiveYankee,“IgaveyouthesubstanceofaletterreceivedherefromHilo,byWalkerAllenandCo。,informingthemthataboat,containingfifteenmeninahelplessandstarvingcondition,haddriftedashoreatSanpahoe,IslandofHawaii,andthattheyhadbelongedtotheclippership“Hornet“——Cap。Mitchell,master——hadbeenafloatsincetheburningofthatvessel,aboutonehundredmilesnorthoftheequator,onthethirdofMay——forty-threedays。
TheThirdMate,andtenoftheseamenhavearrivedhere,andarenowinthehospital。Cap。Mitchell,oneseamannamedAntonioPassene,andtwopassengers,SamuelandHenryFerguson,ofNewYorkCity,eighteenandtwenty-eightyears,arestillatHilo,butareexpectedherewithintheweek。IntheCaptain”smodestepitomeoftheterribleromanceyoudetectthefineoldherothroughit。ItreadslikeGrant。
Herefollowsthewholeterriblenarrative,whichhassincebeenpublishedinmoresubstantialform,andhasbeenrecognizedasliterature。ItoccupiedthreeandahalfcolumnsonthefrontpageoftheUnion,and,ofcourse,constitutedagreatbeatforthatpaper——afactwhichtheyappreciatedtotheextentofonehundreddollarsthecolumnuponthewriter”sreturnfromtheislands。
InlettersNos。14。and15。hegivesfurtherparticularsofthemonthofmourningfortheprincess,andfuneralceremonials。HereferstoBurlingame,whowasstillintheislands。Theremaininglettersareunimportant。
TheHawaiianepisodeinMarkTwain”slifewasoneofthosespotsthatseemedtohimalwaysfilledwithsunlight。Frombeginningtoendithadbeenalongluminousdream;inthenextletter,writtenonthehomeward-boundship,becalmedunderacloudlesssky,werealizethefittingendoftheexperience。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandMrs。Moffett,inSt。Louis:
ONBOARDSHIPSmyrniote,ATSEA,July30,1866。
DEARMOTHERANDSISTER,——Iwrite,now,becauseImustgohardatworkassoonasIgettoSanFrancisco,andthenIshallhavenotimeforotherthings——thoughtruthtosayIhavenothingnowtowritewhichwillbecalculatedtointerestyoumuch。Weleftthe,SandwichIslandseightortendays——ortwelvedaysago——Idon”tknowwhich,Ihavebeensohardatworkuntiltoday(atleastpartofeachday,)thatthetimehasslippedawayalmostunnoticed。Thefirstfewdayswecameatawhoopinggaitbeinginthelatitudeofthe“North-easttrades,“butwesoonranoutofthem。Weusedthemaslongastheylasted-hundredofmiles——andcamedeadstraightnorthuntilexactlyabreastofSanFranciscopreciselystraightwestofthecityinabee-line——butalongbee-line,aswewereabouttwothousandmilesatsea-consequently,wearenotahundredyardsnearerSanFranciscothanyouare。Andhereweliebecalmedonaglassysea——wedonotmoveaninch-wethrowbananaandorangepeeloverboardanditliesstillonthewaterbythevessel”sside。SometimestheoceanisasdeadlevelastheMississippiriver,andglittersglassilyasifpolished——butusually,ofcourse,nomatterhowcalmtheweatheris,werollandsurgeoverthegrandground-swell。Weamuseourselvestyingpiecesoftintotheship”slogandsinkingthemtoseehowfarwecandistinguishthemunderwater——86feetwasthedeepestwecouldseeasmallpieceoftin,butawhiteplatewouldshowaboutasfardownasthesteepleofDr。Bullard”schurchwouldreach,Iguess。Theseaisverydarkandbluehere。
Eversincewegotbecalmed——fivedays——IhavebeencopyingthediaryofoneoftheyoungFergusons(thetwoboyswhostarvedandsuffered,withthirteenothers,inanopenboatatseaforforty-threedays,lately,aftertheirship,the“Hornet,“wasburnedontheequator。)Boththeseboys,andCaptainMitchell,arepassengerswithus。IamcopyingthediarytopublishinHarper”sMagazine,ifIhavetimetofixitupproperlywhenIgettoSanFrancisco。
Isuppose,frompresentappearances,——lightwindsandcalms,——thatweshallbetwoorthreeweeksatsea,yet——andIhopeso——Iaminnohurrytogotowork。
SundayMorning,Aug。6。
Thisisratherslow。Westilldrift,drift,driftalong——atintervalsaspankingbreezeandthen——driftagain——hardlymoveforhalfaday。ButI
enjoyit。Wehavesuchsnowymoonlight,andsuchgorgeoussunsets。
Andtheshipissoeasy——eveninagalesherollsverylittle,comparedtoothervessels——andinthiscalmwecoulddanceondeck,ifwechose。
Youcanwalkacrack,sosteadyisshe。VerydifferentfromtheAjax。
Mytrunkusedtogetlooseinthestateroomandripandteararoundtheplaceasifithadlifeinit,andIalwayshadtotakemyclothesoffinbedbecauseIcouldnotstandupanddoit。
Thereisashipinsight——thefirstobjectwehaveseensinceweleftHonolulu。Wearestill1300or1400milesfromlandandsoanythinglikethisthatvariesthevastsolitudeoftheoceanmakesallhandslight-
heartedandcheerful。Wethinktheshipisthe“Comet,“whichleftHonoluluseveralhoursbeforewedid。Sheisabouttwelvemilesaway,andsowecannotseeherhull,butthesailorsthinkitistheCometbecauseofsomepeculiarityaboutherfore-top-gallantsails。Wehavewatchedheralltheforenoon。
AfternoonWehadpreachingonthequarter-deckbyRev。Mr。Rising,ofVirginiaCity,oldfriendofmine。Spreadaflagonthebooby-hatch,whichmadeaverygoodpulpit,andthenrangedthechairsoneithersideagainstthebulwarks;lastSundaywehadtheshadowofthemainsail,buttodaywewereontheoppositetack,closehauled,andhadthesun。Iamleaderofthechoironthisship,andasorryleaditis。IhopetheywillhaveabetteropinionofourmusicinHeaventhanIhavedownhere。
Iftheydon”tathunderboltwillcomedownandknockthevesselendways。
TheothershipistheComet——sheisrightabreastthreemilesaway,sailingonourcourse——bothofusinadeadcalm。Withtheglasseswecanseewhatwetaketobemenandwomenonherdecks。Iamwellacquaintedwithnearlyallherpassengers,andbeingsocloseseemsrightsociable。
Monday7——Ihadjustgonetobedalittleaftermidnightwhenthe2dmatecameandrousedupthecaptainandsaid“TheComethascomeroundandisstandingawayontheothertack。”Iwentupimmediately,andsodidallourpassengers,withoutwaitingtodress-men,womenandchildren。Therewasaperceptiblebreeze。Prettysoontheothershipsweptdownuponuswithallhersailsset,andmadeafineshowintheluminousstarlight。
Shepassedwithinahundredyardsofus,sowecouldfaintlyseepersonsonherdecks。Wehadtwominutes”chatwitheachother,throughthemediumofhoarseshouting,andthensheboreawaytowindward。
Inthemorningshewasonlyalittleblackpegstandingoutoftheglassyseainthedistanthorizon——analmostinvisiblemarkinthebrightsky。
Deadcalm。Sotheshipshavestood,alldaylong——havenotmoved100
yards。
Aug。8——Thecalmcontinues。Magnificentweather。Thegentlemenhaveallturnedboys。Theyplayboyishgamesonthepoopandquarter-deck。Forinstance:Theylayaknifeonthefife-railofthemainmast——standoffthreesteps,shutoneeye,walkupandstrikeatitwiththefore-finger;
(seldomhitit;)alsotheylayaknifeonthedeckandwalksevenoreightstepswitheyescloseshut,andtrytofindit。Theykneel——placeelbowsagainstknees——extendhandsinfrontalongthedeck——placeknifeagainstendoffingers——thenclasphandsbehindbackandbendforwardandtrytopickuptheknifewiththeirteethandriseupfromkneeswithoutrollingoverorlosingtheirbalance。Theytieastringtotheshrouds——
standwithbackagainstitwalkthreesteps(eyesshut)——turnaroundthreetimesandgoandputfingeronthestring;onlyamilitarymancandoit。Ifyouwanttoknowhowperfectlyridiculousagrownmanlooksperformingsuchabsurditiesinthepresenceofladies,getonetotryit。
Afternoon——Thecalmisnomore。Therearethreevesselsinsight。Itissosociabletohavethemhoveringaboutusonthisbroadwasteofwater。
Itissunnyandpleasant,butblowinghard。Everyragabouttheshipisspreadtothebreezeandsheisspeedingoverthesealikeabird。Thereisalargebrigrightasternofuswithallhercanvassetandchasingusatherbest。Shecameupfastwhilethewindswerelight,butnowitishardtotellwhethershegainsornot。Wecanseethepeopleontheforecastlewiththeglass。Theraceisexciting。Iamsorrytoknowthatweshallsoonhavetoquitthevesselandgoashoreifshekeepsupthisspeed。
Friday,Aug。10——Wehavebreezesandcalmsalternately。Thebrigistwomilestothreeastern,andjuststaysthere。Wesaildirectlyeast——thisbringsthebrig,withallhercanvasset,almostintheeyeofthesun,whenitsets——beautiful。Shelookssharplycutandblackasacoal,againstabackgroundoffireandinthemidstofaseaofblood。
SanFrancisco,Aug。20——WeneversawtheCometagaintillthe13th,inthemorning,threemilesaway。Atthreeo”clockthatafternoon,25daysoutfromHonolulu,bothshipsenteredtheGoldenGateofSanFranciscosidebyside,and300yardsapart。Therewasagaleblowing,andbothvesselsclappedoneverystitchofcanvasandsweptupthroughthechannelandpastthefortressesatamagnificentgait。
IhavebeenuptoSacramentoandsquaredaccountswiththeUnion。Theypaidmeagreatdealmorethantheypromisedme。
YrsaffSAM。
VI。
LETTERS1866-67。THELECTURER。SUCCESSONTHECOAST。INNEWYORK。
THEGREATOCEANEXCURSION
ItwasAugust13thwhenhereachedSanFranciscoandwroteinhisnote-book,“Homeagain。No——nothomeagain——inprisonagain,andallthewildsenseoffreedomgone。Cityseemssocrampedandsodrearywithtoilandcareandbusinessanxieties。Godhelpme,I
wishIwereatseaagain!“
Thetransitionfromthedreamlandofabecalmedsailing-vesseltothedull,cheerlessrealitiesofhisoldlife,andtheuncertaintiesofhisfuture,depressedhim——filledhimwithforebodings。Atonemomenthefelthimselfonthevergeofsuicide——theworldseemedsolittleworthwhile。
Hewishedtomakeatriparoundtheworld,aprojectthatrequiredmoney。Hecontemplatedmakingabookofhisislandlettersandexperiences,andtheacceptancebyHarper”sMagazineoftherevisedversionoftheHornetShipwreckstoryencouragedthisthought。
FriendsurgedhimtoembodyinalecturethepicturesqueaspectofHawaiianlife。Thethoughtfrightenedhim,butitalsoappealedtohimstrongly。Hebelievedhecouldentertainanaudience,oncehegotstartedontherighttrack。AsGovernoroftheThirdHouseatCarsonCityhehadkepttheaudienceinhand。Meninwhomhehadtheutmostconfidenceinsistedthathefollowupthelectureideaandengagethelargesthouseinthecityforhispurpose。Thepossibilityoffailureappalledhim,buthefinallyagreedtotheplan。
InRoughingIt,andelsewhere,hasbeentoldthestoryofthisventure——thetaleofitssplendidsuccess。Hewasnolongerconcerned,now,astohisimmediatefuture。Thelecturefieldwasprofitable。Hisaudiencelaughedandshouted。Hewaslearningtheflavorofrealsuccessandexultinginit。WithDennisMcCarthy,formerlyoneofthepartnersintheEnterprise,asmanager,hemadeatourofCaliforniaandNevada。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandothers,inSt。Louis:
VIRGINIACITY,Nov。1,1866。
ALLTHEFOLKS,AFFECTIONATEGREETING,——Youknowtheflushtime”sarepast,andithaslongbeenimpossibletomorethanhalffilltheTheatrehere,withanysortofattraction,buttheyfilleditforme,nightbeforelast——full——dollaralloverthehouse。
IwasmightydubiousaboutCarson,buttheenclosedcallandsometelegramssetthatallright——Ilecturetheretomorrownight。
TheyofferafullhouseandnoexpenseinDayton——gotherenext。SandyBaldwinsaysIhavemadethemostsweepingsuccessofanymanheknowsof。
IhavelecturedinSanFrancisco,Sacramento,Marysville,GrassValley,Nevada,YouBet,RedDogandVirginia。IamgoingtotalkinCarson,GoldHill,SilverCity,Dayton,Washoe,SanFranciscoagain,andagainhereifIhavetimetore-hashthelecture。
ThenIamboundforNewYork——lectureontheSteamer,maybe。
I”11leavetoward1stDecember——butI”lltelegraphyou。
Lovetoall。
Yrs。
MARK。
HislecturetourcontinuedfromOctoberuntilDecember,aperiodofpicturesqueincident,thestoryofwhichhasbeenrecordedelsewhere——
[SeeMarkTwain:ABiography,bythesameauthor]——Itpaidhimwell;
hecouldgohomenow,withoutshame。Indeed,fromhisnextletter,fulloftheboyishelationwhichalwaystohislastyearswasthecomplementofhissuccess,wegatherthatheisgoinghomewithspecialhonors——
introductionsfromministersandtheliketodistinguishedpersonagesoftheEast。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis:
SANF。,Dec。4,1866。
MYDEARFOLKS,——IhavewrittentoAnnieandSammyandKatiesometimeago——also,tothebalanceofyou。
IcalledonRev。Dr。WadsworthlastnightwiththeCityCollegeman,buthewasn”tathome。Iwassorry,becauseIwantedtomakehisacquaintance。IamthickasthieveswiththeRev。Stebbings,andIamlayingfortheRev。ScudderandtheRev。Dr。Stone。Iamrunningonpreachers,now,altogether。Ifindthemgay。Stebbingsisaregularbrick。IamtakinglettersofintroductiontoHenryWardBeecher,Rev。
Dr。Tyng,andothereminentparsonsintheeast。Wheneveranybodyoffersmealettertoapreacher,nowIsnaffleitonthespot。IshallmakeRev。Dr。BellowstrotoutthefastnagsoftheclothformewhenIgettoNewYork。Bellowsisanable,uprightandeloquentman——amanofimperialintellectandmatchlesspower——heisChristianinthetruestsenseofthetermandisunquestionablyabrick……
Gen。DrumhasarrivedinPhiladelphiaandestablishedhishead-quartersthere,asAdjutantGenl。toMaj。Gen。Meade。Col。LeonardhasreceivedaletterfromhiminwhichheoffersmeacomplimentarybenefitifIwillcomethere。Iammuchobliged,really,butIamafraidIshan”tlecturemuchintheStates。
TheChinaMailSteamerisgettingreadyandeverybodysaysIamthrowingawayafortuneinnotgoinginher。Ifirmlybelieveitmyself。
IsailfortheStatesintheOppositionsteamerofthe5thinst。,positivelyandwithoutreserve。Myroomisalreadysecuredforme,andisthechoicestintheship。Iknowalltheofficers。
Yrs。AffyMARK。
Wegetnohintofhisplans,andperhapshehadnone。IfhispurposewastolectureintheEast,hewasinnohurrytobegin。
ArrivinginNewYork,afteranadventurousvoyage,hemetanumberofoldCalifornians——menwhobelievedinhim——andurgedhimtolecture。Healsoreceivedoffersofnewspaperengagements,andfromCharlesHenryWebb,whohadpublishedtheCalifornian,whichBretHartehadedited,cametheproposaltocollecthispublishedsketches,includingthejumpingFrogstory,inbookform。WebbhimselfwasinNewYork,andofferedthesketchestoseveralpublishers,includingCanton,whohadoncerefusedtheFrogstorybyomittingitfromArtemusWard”sbook。ItseemscuriousthatCantonshouldmakeasecondmistakeandrefuseitagain,butpublisherswerewaryinthosedays,andeventhenewspapersuccessoftheFrogstorydidnottempthimtoventureitasthetitletaleofabook。
Webbfinallydeclaredhewouldpublishthebookhimself,andClemens,afterafewweeksofNewYork,joinedhismotherandfamilyinSt。Louisandgavehimselfuptoaconsiderableperiodofvisiting,lecturingmeantimeinbothHannibalandKeokuk。
Fatehadgreatmattersinpreparationforhim。TheQuakerCityMediterraneanexcursion,thefirstgreatoceanpicnic,wasannouncedthatspring,andMarkTwainrealizedthatitofferedapossibleopportunityforhimtoseesomethingoftheworld。HewroteatoncetotheproprietorsoftheAlta-Californiaandproposedthattheysendhimastheircorrespondent。Tohisdelighthispropositionwasaccepted,theAltaagreeingtothetwelvehundreddollarspassagemoney,andtwentydollarseachforletters。
TheQuakerCitywasnottosailuntilthe8thofJune,buttheAltawishedsomepreliminarylettersfromNewYork。Furthermore,WebbhadtheFrogbookinpress,andwouldissueitMay1st。Clemens,therefore,returnedtoNewYorkinApril,andnowoncemorebeingurgedbytheCalifornianstolecture,hedidnotrefuse。FrankFuller,formerlyGovernorofUtah,tookthematterinhandandengagedCooperUnionfortheventure。HetimeditforMay6th,whichwouldbeafewdaysaftertheappearanceofWebb”sbook。
ClemenswasevenmorefrightenedattheprospectofthislecturethanhehadbeeninSanFrancisco,andwithmorereason,forinNewYorkhisfriendswerenotmany,andcompetitionforpublicfavorwasverygreat。TherearetwoletterswrittenMay1st,onetohispeople,andonetoBretHarte,inSanFrancisco;thatgiveusthesituation。
EndLettersVol。2
byMarkTwainVOLUMEII。
MARKTWAIN”SLETTERS1867-1875
ToBretHarte,inSanFrancisco:
WESTMINSTERHOTEL,May1,1867。
DEARBRET,——ItakemypeninhandtoinformyouthatIamwellandhopethesefewlineswillfindyouenjoyingthesameGod”sblessing。
Thebookisout,andishandsome。ItisfullofdamnableerrorsofgrammaranddeadlyinconsistenciesofspellingintheFrogsketchbecauseIwasawayanddidnotreadtheproofs;butbeafriendandsaynothingaboutthesethings。Whenmyhurryisover,Iwillsendyouanautographcopytopisenthechildrenwith。
IamtolectureinCooperInstitutenextMondaynight。Prayforme。
WesailfortheHolyLandJune8。Trytowriteme(tothishotel,)anditwillbeforwardedtoParis,whereweremain10or15days。
RegardsandbestwishestoMrs。Bretandthefamily。
TrulyYrFriendMARK。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis:
WESTMINSTERHOTEL,May1,1867。
DEARFOLKS,——Don”texpectmetowriteforawhile。Myhandsarefullofbusinessonaccountofmylectureforthe6thinst。,andeverythinglooksshady,atleast,ifnotdark。Ihavegotagoodagent——butnowafterwehavehiredCooperInstituteandgonetoanexpenseinonewayoranotherof$500,itcomesoutthatIhavegottoplayagainstSpeakerColfaxatIrvingHall,Ristori,andalsothedoubletroupeofJapanesejugglers,thelatteropeningatthegreatAcademyofMusic——andwithallthisagainstmeIhavetakenthelargesthouseinNewYorkandcannotbackwater。Letherslide!IfnobodyelsecaresIdon”t。
I”llsendthebooksoon。Iamawfullyhurriednow,butnotworried。
Yrs。
SAM。
TheCooperUnionlectureprovedafailure,andasuccess。WhenitbecameevidenttoFullerthattheventurewasnotgoingtopay,hesentoutafloodofcomplimentariestotheschool-teachersofNewYorkCityandthesurroundingdistricts。Nooneseemstohavedeclinedthem。Clemenslecturedtoajammedhouseandacquiredmuchreputation。Lectureproposalscamefromseveraldirections,buthecouldnotacceptthemnow。
HewrotehomethathewaseighteenAltalettersbehindandhadrefusedeverything。Thos。Nast,thecartoonist,theninhisfirstfame,proppedajointtour,Clemenstolecturewhilehe,Nast,wouldillustratewith“lightning“sketches;buteventhiscouldnotbeconsiderednow。Inalittlewhilehewouldsail,andthedayswereoverfull。Aletterwrittenaweekbeforehesailedisfullofthehurryandstrainoftheselastdays。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamily,inSt。Louis:
WESTMINSTERHOTEL,NEWYORK,June1,1867。
DEARFOLKS,——IknowIoughttowriteoftener(justgotyourlast,)andmorefully,butIcannotovercomemyrepugnancetotellingwhatIamdoingorwhatIexpecttodoorproposetodo。Then,whathaveIlefttowriteabout?Manifestlynothing。
Itisn”tanyuseformetotalkaboutthevoyage,becauseIcanhavenofaithinthatvoyagetilltheshipisunderway。HowdoIknowshewilleversail?Mypassageispaid,andiftheshipsails,Isailinher——butImakenocalculations,haveboughtnocigars,nosea-goingclothing——havemadenopreparationwhatever——shallnotpackmytrunktillthemorningwesail。YetmyhandsarefullofwhatIamgoingtodothedaybeforewesail——andwhatisn”tdonethatdaywillgoundone。
AllIdoknoworfeel,is,thatIamwildwithimpatiencetomove——move——move!HalfadozentimesIhavewishedIhadsailedlongagoinsomeshipthatwasn”tgoingtokeepmechainedheretochafeforlaggingageswhileshegotreadytogo。Cursetheendlessdelays!Theyalwayskillme——theymakemeneglecteverydutyandthenIhaveaconsciencethattearsmelikeawildbeast。IwishIneverhadtostopanywhereamonth。
Idomoremeanthings,themomentIgetachancetofoldmyhandsandsitdownthaneverIcangetforgivenessfor。
Yes,wearetomeetatMr。Beach”snextThursdaynight,andIsupposeweshallhavetobegottenupregardlessofexpense,inswallow-tails,whitekidsandeverythingenregle。
IamresignedtoRev。Mr。Hutchinson”soranybodyelse”ssupervision。
Idon”tmindit。Iamfixed。Ihavegotasplendid,immoral,tobacco-
smoking,wine-drinking,godlessroom-matewhoisasgoodandtrueandright-mindedamanaseverlived——amanwhoseblamelessconductandexamplewillalwaysbeaneloquentsermontoallwhoshallcomewithintheirinfluence。Butsendontheprofessionalpreachers——therearenoneIlikebettertoconversewith。Ifthey”renotnarrowmindedandbigotedtheymakegoodcompanions。
IaskedthemtosendtheN。Y。Weeklytoyou——nocharge。Iamnotgoingtowriteforit。Likeallother,papersthatpayonesplendidlyitcirculatesamongstupidpeopleandthe”canaille。”IhavemadenoarrangementwithanyNewYorkpaper——IwillseeaboutthatMondayorTuesday。
LovetoallGoodbye,YrsaffySAM。
The“immoral“room-matewhoseconductwastobean“eloquentexample“wasDanSlote,immortalizedintheInnocentsas“Dan“——
afavoriteontheship,andlaterbelovedbycountlessreaders。
Thereisonemoreletter,writtenthenightbeforetheQuakerCitysailed-aletterwhichinasensemarksthecloseofthefirstgreatperiodofhislife——theperiodofaimlesswandering——adventure——youth。
Perhapsaparagraphofexplanationshouldprecedethisletter。
PoliticalchangeshadeliminatedOrioninNevada,andhewasnowundertakingthepracticeoflaw。“BillStewart“wasSenatorStewart,ofNevada,ofwhomweshallhearagain。The“SandwichIslandbook,“asmaybeimagined,wasmadeupofhisletterstotheSacramentoUnion。Nothingcameoftheventure,exceptsomechaptersin”RoughingIt”,rewrittenfromthematerial。“ZebandJohnLeavenworth“werepilotswhomhehadknownontheriver。
ToMrs。JaneClemensandfamilyinSt。Louis:
NEWYORK,June7th,1867。
DEARFOLKS,Isupposeweshallbemanyaleagueatseatomorrownight,andgoodnessknowsIshallbeunspeakablygladofit。
Ihaven”tgotanythingtowrite,elseIwouldwriteit。IhavejustwrittenmyselfclearoutinletterstotheAlta,andIthinktheyarethestupidestlettersthatwereeverwrittenfromNewYork。CorrespondinghasbeenaperfectdrageversinceIgottothestates。Ifitcontinuesabroad,Idon”tknowwhattheTribuneandAltafolkswillthink。
IhavewithdrawntheSandwichIslandbook——itwouldbeuselesstopublishitinthesedullpublishingtimes。AsfortheFrogbook,Idon”tbelievethatwilleverpayanythingworthacent。Ipublisheditsimplytoadvertisemyself——notwiththehopeofmakinganythingoutofit。
Well,Ihaven”tanythingtowrite,exceptthatIamtiredofstayinginoneplace——thatIaminafevertogetaway。ReadmyAltaletters——theycontaineverythingIcouldpossiblywritetoyou。TellZebandJohnLeavenworthtowriteme。Theycangetplentyofgossipfromthepilots。
Animportinghousesenttwocasesofexquisitechampagneaboardtheshipformetoday——VeuveClicquotandLacd”Or。Iandmyroom-matehavesetaparteverySaturdayasasolemnfastday,whereinwewillentertainnolightmattersoffrivolousconversation,butonlygetdrunk。(Thatisajoke。)HismotherandsistersarethebestandmosthomelikepeopleI
haveyetfoundinabrownstonefront。Thereisnostyleaboutthem,exceptinhouseandfurniture。
IwishOrionweregoingonthisvoyage,forIbelievehecouldnothelpbutbecheerfulandjolly。Ioftenwonderifhislawbusinessisgoingsatisfactorilytohim,butknowingthatthedullseasonissettinginnow(itlookedlikeithadalreadysetinbefore)IhavefeltasifIcouldalmostanswerthequestionmyself——whichistosayinplainwords,Iwasafraidtoask。IwishIhadgonetoWashingtoninthewinterinsteadofgoingWest。IcouldhavegougedanofficeoutofBillStewartforhim,andthatwouldatoneforthelossofmyhomevisit。ButIamsoworthlessthatitseemstomeIneverdoanythingoraccomplishanythingthatlingersinmymindasapleasantmemory。MymindisstoredfullofunworthyconducttowardOrionandtowardsyouall,andanaccusingconsciencegivesmepeaceonlyinexcitementandrestlessmovingfromplacetoplace。IfIcouldsayIhaddoneonethingforanyofyouthatentitledmetoyourgoodopinion,(Isaynothingofyourlove,forIamsureofthat,nomatterhowunworthyofitImaymakemyself,fromOriondownyouhavealwaysgivenmethat,allthedaysofmylife,whenGodAlmightyknowsIseldomdeserveit,)IbelieveIcouldgohomeandstaythereandIknowIwouldcarelittlefortheworld”spraiseorblame。
Thereisnosatisfactionintheworld”spraiseanyhow,andithasnoworthtomesaveinthewayofbusiness。Itriedtogatherupitscomplimentstosendtoyou,buttheworkwasdistastefulandIdroppedit。
YouobservethatunderacheerfulexteriorIhavegotaspiritthatisangrywithmeandgivesmefreelyitscontempt。Icangetawayfromthatatsea,andbetranquilandsatisfied-andso,withmypartingloveandbenedictionforOrionandallofyou,IsaygoodbyeandGodblessyouall——andwelcomethewindthatwaftsawearysoultothesunnylandsoftheMediterranean!
Yrs。Forever,SAM。
VII。
LETTERS1867。THETRAVELER。THEVOYAGEOFTHE“QUAKERCITY“
MarkTwain,nowatsea,waswritingmanyletters;notpersonalletters,butthoseuniquedescriptiverelationsoftravelwhichwouldmakehimhisfirstgreatfame——thosefreshfirstimpressionspreservedtousnowaschaptersofTheInnocentsAbroad。Yethereandthereinthemidstofsight-seeingandreportinghefoundtimetosendabrieflinetothoseathome,merelythattheymighthaveawordfromhisownhand,forhehadorderedthepaperstowhichhewastocontribute——theAltaandtheNewYorkTribune——senttothem,andthesewouldgivethestoryofhistravels。Thehomelettersreadlikenotebookentries。