第6章

类别:其他 作者:Washington Irving字数:20073更新时间:18/12/19 16:05:41
Infact,thetradersoftheHudson”sBayCompanyhaveadvantagesoverallcompetitorsinthe trade beyondtheRockyMountains。Thathugemonopolycenterswithinitselfnotmerelyitsown hereditaryandlong-establishedpowerandinfluence;butalsothoseofitsancientrival,butnow integralpart,thefamousNorthwestCompany。Ithasthusitsracesoftraders,trappers,hunters, and voyageurs,bornandbroughtupinitsservice,andinheritingfromprecedinggenerationsa knowledgeandaptitudeineverythingconnectedwithIndianlife,andIndiantraffic。Inthe process ofyears,thiscompanyhasbeenenabledtospreaditsramificationsineverydirection;itssystem of intercourseisfoundeduponalongandintimateknowledgeofthecharacterandnecessitiesofthe varioustribes;andofallthefastnesses,defiles,andfavorablehuntinggroundsofthecountry。 Their capital,also,andthemannerinwhichtheirsuppliesaredistributedatvariousposts,orforwarded byregularcaravans,keeptheirtraderswellsupplied,andenablethemtofurnishtheirgoodsto the Indiansatacheaprate。Theirmen,too,beingchieflydrawnfromtheCanadas,wheretheyenjoy greatinfluenceandcontrol,areengagedatthemosttriflingwages,andsupportedatlittlecost; the provisionswhichtheytakewiththembeinglittlemorethanIndiancornandgrease。Theyare brought alsointothemostperfectdisciplineandsubordination,especiallywhentheirleadershaveonce gotthemtotheirsceneofactionintheheartofthewilderness。ThesecircumstancescombinetogivetheleadersoftheHudson”sBayCompanyadecided advantage overalltheAmericancompaniesthatcomewithintheirrange,sothatanyclosecompetitionwiththemisalmosthopeless。ShortlyafterCaptainBonneville”sineffectualattempttoparticipateinthetradeofthe associated camp,thesuppliesoftheHudson”sBayCompanyarrived;andtheresidenttraderwasenabledtomonopolizethemarket。ItwasnowthebeginningofJuly;inthelatterpartofwhichmonthCaptainBonnevillehad appointed arendezvousatHorseCreekinGreenRiverValley,withsomeofthepartieswhichhehad detachedintheprecedingyear。Henowturnedhisthoughtsinthatdirection,andpreparedforthejourney。TheCottonoiswereanxiousforhimtoproceedatoncetotheircountry;which,theyassured him, aboundedinbeaver。ThelandsofthistribelieimmediatelynorthofthoseoftheFlatheadsand are opentotheinroadsoftheBlackfeet。Itistrue,thelatterprofessedtobetheirallies;buttheyhad been guiltyofsomanyactsofperfidy,thattheCottonoishad,latterly,renouncedtheirhollow friendship andattachedthemselvestotheFlatheadsandNezPerces。Thesetheyhadaccompaniedintheir migrationsratherthanremainaloneathome,exposedtotheoutragesoftheBlackfeet。Theywere nowapprehensivethatthesemarauderswouldrangetheircountryduringtheirabsenceand destroy thebeaver;thiswastheirreasonforurgingCaptainBonnevilletomakeithisautumnalhunting ground。Thelatter,however,wasnottobetempted;hisengagementsrequiredhispresenceattherendezvousinGreenRiverValley;andhehadalreadyformedhisulteriorplans。Anunexpecteddifficultynowarose。Thefreetrapperssuddenlymadeastand,anddeclined to accompanyhim。Itwasalongandwearyjourney;theroutelaythroughPierre”sHole,andother mountainpassesinfestedbytheBlackfeet,andrecentlythescenesofsanguinaryconflicts。They werenotdisposedtoundertakesuchunnecessarytoilsanddangers,whentheyhadgoodand securetrappinggroundsnearerathand,onthehead-watersofSalmonRiver。Asthesewerefreeandindependentfellows,whosewillandwhimwereapttobelaw——who hadthe wholewildernessbeforethem,“wheretochoose,“andthetraderofarivalcompanyathand, ready topayfortheirservices——itwasnecessarytobendtotheirwishes。CaptainBonnevillefitted them out,therefore,forthehuntinggroundinquestion;appointingMr。Hodgkisstoactastheir partisan, orleader,andfixingarendezvouswhereheshouldmeettheminthecourseoftheensuing winter。 Thebrigadeconsistedoftwenty-onefreetrappersandfourorfivehiredmenascamp-keepers。 This wasnottheexactarrangementofatrappingparty;whichwhenaccuratelyorganizediscomposed oftwothirdstrapperswhosedutyleadsthemcontinuallyabroadinpursuitofgame;andone third camp-keeperswhocook,pack,andunpack;setupthetents,takecareofthehorsesanddoall other dutiesusuallyassignedbytheIndianstotheirwomen。Thispartoftheserviceisapttobe fulfilledbyFrenchcreolesfromCanadaandthevalleyoftheMississippi。InthemeantimetheassociatedIndianshavingcompletedtheirtradeandreceivedtheir supplies, wereallreadytodisperseinvariousdirections。AstherewasaformidablebandofBlackfeetjust overamountaintothenortheast,bywhichHodgkissandhisfreetrapperswouldhavetopass; and asitwasknownthatthosesharp-sightedmaraudershadtheirscoutsoutwatchingevery movement oftheencampments,soastocutoffstragglersorweakdetachments,CaptainBonneville prevailed upontheNezPercestoaccompanyHodgkissandhispartyuntiltheyshouldbebeyondtherange oftheenemy。TheCottonoisandthePendsOreillesdeterminedtomovetogetheratthesametime,andto pass closeunderthemountaininfestedbytheBlackfeet;whileCaptainBonneville,withhisparty, was tostrikeinanoppositedirectiontothesoutheast,bendinghiscourseforPierre”sHole,onhiswaytoGreenRiver。Accordingly,onthe6thofJuly,allthecampswereraisedatthesamemoment;eachparty takingits separateroute。Thescenewaswildandpicturesque;thelonglineoftraders,trappers,and Indians, withtheirruggedandfantasticdressesandaccoutrements;theirvariedweapons,their innumerable horses,someunderthesaddle,someburdenedwithpackages,othersfollowingindroves;all stretchinginlengtheningcavalcadesacrossthevastlandscape,makingfordifferentpointsofthe plainsandmountains。[ReturntoContents]Irving”sBonneville-Chapter19[ReturntoContents]WashingtonIrving”sTheAdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleChapter19Precautionsindangerousdefiles——Trappers”modeofdefenceonaprairie——A mysteriousvisitor——ArrivalinGreen RiverValley——Adventuresofthedetachments——Theforlornpartisan——Histaleofdisasters。AStherouteofCaptainBonnevillelaythroughwhatwasconsideredthemostperilouspart ofthis regionofdangers,hetookallhismeasureswithmilitaryskill,andobservedthestrictest circumspection。Whenonthemarch,asmallscoutingpartywasthrownintheadvanceto reconnoitrethecountrythroughwhichtheyweretopass。Theencampmentswereselectedwith greatcare,andawatchwaskeptupnightandday。Thehorseswerebroughtinandpicketedat night,andatdaybreakapartywassentouttoscourtheneighborhoodforhalfamileround, beatingupeverygroveandthicketthatcouldgivesheltertoalurkingfoe。Whenallwasreported safe,thehorseswerecastlooseandturnedouttograze。Weresuchprecautionsgenerally observedbytradersandhunters,weshouldnotsooftenhearofpartiesbeingsurprisedbytheIndians。Havingstatedthemilitaryarrangementsofthecaptain,wemayherementionamodeof defenceontheopenprairie, whichwehaveheardfromaveteranintheIndiantrade。Whenapartyoftrappersisonajourney withaconvoyofgoods orpeltries,everymanhasthreepack-horsesunderhiscare;eachhorseladenwiththreepacks。 Everymanisprovidedwith apicketwithanironhead,amallet,andhobbles,orleathernfettersforthehorses。Thetrappers proceedacrosstheprairie inalongline;orsometimesthreeparallellines,sufficientlydistantfromeachothertoprevent thepacksfrominterfering。 Atanalarm,whenthereisnocovertathand,thelinewheelssoastobringthefronttotherear andformacircle。Allthen dismount,drivetheirpicketsintothegroundinthecentre,fastenthehorsestothem,andhobble theirforelegs,sothat, incaseofalarm,theycannotbreakaway。Thentheyunloadthem,anddisposeoftheirpacksas breastworksonthe peripheryofthecircle;eachmanhavingninepacksbehindwhichtoshelterhimself。Inthis promptly-formedfortress,theyawaittheassaultoftheenemy,andareenabledtosetlargebandsofIndiansatdefiance。Thefirstnightofhismarch,CaptainBonnevilleencampeduponHenry”sFork; anupperbranchofSnakeRiver,calledafterthefirstAmericantraderthaterected afortbeyondthemountains。Aboutanhourafterallhandshadcometoahaltthe clatterofhoofswasheard,andasolitaryfemale,oftheNezPercetribe,came gallopingup。Shewasmountedonamustangorhalfwildhorse,whichshe managedbyalongropehitchedroundtheunderjawbywayofbridle。 Dismounting,shewalkedsilentlyintothemidstofthecamp,andthereseatedherselfontheground,stillholdingherhorsebythelonghalter。Thesuddenandlonelyapparitionofthiswoman,andhercalmyetresolute demeanor,awakeneduniversalcuriosity。Thehuntersandtrappersgatheredround, andgazedonherassomethingmysterious。Sheremainedsilent,butmaintained herairofcalmnessandself-possession。CaptainBonnevilleapproachedand interrogatedherastotheobjectofhermysteriousvisit。Heranswerwasbriefbut earnest——“Ilovethewhites——Iwillgowiththem。”Shewasforthwithinvitedtoa lodge,ofwhichshereadilytookpossession,andfromthattimeforwardwasconsideredoneofthecamp。Inconsequence,veryprobably,ofthemilitaryprecautionsofCaptain Bonneville,heconductedhispartyinsafetythroughthishazardousregion。No accidentofadisastrouskindoccurred,exceptingthelossofahorse,which,in passingalongthegiddyedgeofaprecipice,calledtheCornice,adangerouspassbetweenJackson”sandPierre”sHole,felloverthebrink,andwasdashedtopieces。Onthe13thofJuly(1833),CaptainBonnevillearrivedatGreenRiver。Ashe enteredthevalley,hebehelditstrewedineverydirectionwiththecarcassesof buffaloes。ItwasevidentthatIndianshadrecentlybeenthere,andingreat numbers。Alarmedatthissight,hecametoahalt,andassoonasitwasdark,sent outspiestohisplaceofrendezvousonHorseCreek,wherehehadexpectedto meetwithhisdetachedpartiesoftrappersonthefollowingday。Earlyinthe morningthespiesmadetheirappearanceinthecamp,andwiththemcamethree trappersofoneofhisbands,fromtherendezvous,whotoldhimhispeoplewere allthereexpectinghim。Astotheslaughteramongthebuffaloes,ithadbeenmade byafriendlybandofShoshonies,whohadfalleninwithoneofhistrapping parties,andaccompaniedthemtotherendezvous。Havingimpartedthis intelligence,thethreeworthiesfromtherendezvousbroachedasmallkegof “alcohol,“whichtheyhadbroughtwiththem。toenliventhismerrymeeting。The liquorwentbrisklyround;allabsentfriendsweretoasted,andthepartymovedforwardtotherendezvousinhighspirits。Themeetingofassociatedbands,whohavebeenseparatedfromeachotheron thesehazardousenterprises,isalwaysinteresting;eachhavingitstalesofperils andadventurestorelate。Suchwasthecasewiththevariousdetachmentsof CaptainBonneville”scompany,thusbroughttogetheronHorseCreek。Herewas thedetachmentoffiftymenwhichhehadsentfromSalmonRiver,inthe precedingmonthofNovember,towinteronSnakeRiver。Theyhadmetwith manycrossesandlossesinthecourseoftheirspringhunt,notsomuchfrom Indiansasfromwhitemen。Theyhadcomeincompetitionwithrivaltrapping parties,particularlyonebelongingtotheRockyMountainFurCompany;andthey hadlongstoriestorelateoftheirmanoeuvrestoforestallordistresseachother。In fact,inthesevirulentandsordidcompetitions,thetrappersofeachpartywere moreintentuponinjuringtheirrivals,thanbenefittingthemselves;breakingeach other”straps,tramplingandtearingtopiecesthebeaverlodges,anddoingevery thingintheirpowertomarthesuccessofthehunt。Weforbeartodetailthesepitifulcontentions。Themostlamentabletaleofdisasters,however,thatCaptainBonnevillehadto hear,wasfromapartisan,whomhehaddetachedintheprecedingyear,with twentymen,tohuntthroughtheoutskirtsoftheCrowcountry,andonthetributarystreamsof theYellowstone;whencehewastoproceedandjoinhiminhis winterquartersonSalmonRiver。Thispartisanappearedattherendezvous withouthisparty,andasorrowfultaleofdisastershadhetorelate。Inhuntingthe Crowcountry,hefellinwithavillageofthattribe;notoriousrogues,jockeys, andhorsestealers,anderrantscamperersofthemountains。Thesedecoyedmostof hismentodesert,andcarryoffhorses,traps,andaccoutrements。Whenhe attemptedtoretakethedeserters,theCrowwarriorsruffleduptohimanddeclared thedesertersweretheirgoodfriends,haddeterminedtoremainamongthem,and shouldnotbemolested。Thepoorpartisan,therefore,wasfaintoleavehis vagabondsamongthesebirdsoftheirownfeather,andbeingtooweakinnumbers toattemptthedangerouspassacrossthemountainstomeetCaptainBonnevilleon SalmonRiver,hemade,withthefewthatremainedfaithfultohim,forthe neighborhoodofTullock”sFort,ontheYellowstone,undertheprotectionofwhichhewentintowinterquarters。Hesoonfoundoutthattheneighborhoodofthefortwasnearlyasbadasthe neighborhoodoftheCrows。Hismenwerecontinuallystealingawaythither,with whateverbeaverskinstheycouldsecreteorlaytheirhandson。Thesetheywould exchangewiththehangers-onofthefortforwhiskey,andthenrevelindrunkenessanddebauchery。Theunluckypartisanmadeanothermove。Associatingwithhispartyafewfree trappers,whomhemetwithinthisneighborhood,hestartedoffearlyinthespring totrapontheheadwatersofPowderRiver。Inthecourseofthejourney,his horsesweresomuchjadedintraversingasteepmountain,thathewasinducedto turnthemloosetograzeduringthenight。Theplacewaslonely;thepathwas rugged;therewasnotthesignofanIndianintheneighborhood;notabladeof grassthathadbeenturnedbyafootstep。Butwhocancalculateonsecurityinthe midstoftheIndiancountry,wherethefoelurksinsilenceandsecrecy,andseems tocomeandgoonthewingsofthewind?Thehorseshadscarcebeenturned loose,whenacoupleofArickara(orRickaree)warriorsenteredthecamp。They affectedafrankandfriendlydemeanor;buttheirappearanceandmovements awakenedthesuspicionsofsomeoftheveterantrappers,wellversedinIndian wiles。Convincedthattheywerespiessentonsomesinistererrand,theytookthem incustody,andsettoworktodriveinthehorses。Itwastoolate——thehorseswere alreadygone。Infact,awarpartyofArickarashadbeenhoveringontheirtrailfor severaldays,watchingwiththepatienceandperseveranceofIndians,forsome momentofnegligenceandfanciedsecurity,tomakeasuccessfulswoop。Thetwo spieshadevidentlybeensentintothecamptocreateadiversion,whiletheirconfederatescarriedoffthespoil。Theunluckypartisan,thusrobbedofhishorses,turnedfuriouslyonhis prisoners,orderedthemtobeboundhandandfoot,andsworetoputthemtodeath unlesshispropertywererestored。Therobbers,whosoonfoundthattheirspies wereincaptivity,nowmadetheirappearanceonhorseback,andheldaparley。The sightofthem,mountedontheveryhorsestheyhadstolen,setthebloodofthe mountaineersinaferment;butitwasuselesstoattackthem,astheywouldhave buttoturntheirsteedsandscamperoutofthereachofpedestrians。Anegotiation wasnowattempted。TheArickarasofferedwhattheyconsideredfairterms;to barteronehorse,oreventwohorses,foraprisoner。Themountaineersspurnedat theiroffer,anddeclaredthat,unlessallthehorseswererelinquished,theprisoners shouldbeburnttodeath。Togiveforcetotheirthreat,apyreoflogsandfagotswasheapedupandkindledintoablaze。Theparleycontinued;theArickarasreleasedonehorseandthenanother,in earnestoftheirproposition;finding,however,thatnothingshortofthe relinquishmentofalltheirspoilswouldpurchasethelivesofthecaptives,they abandonedthemtotheirfate,movingoffwithmanypartingwordsandlamentable howlings。Theprisonersseeingthemdepart,andknowingthehorriblefatethat awaitedthem,madeadesperateefforttoescape。Theypartiallysucceeded,but wereseverelywoundedandretaken;thendraggedtotheblazingpyre,andburnttodeathinthesightoftheirretreatingcomrades。Sucharethesavagecrueltiesthatwhitemenlearntopractise,whominglein savagelife;andsucharetheactsthatleadtoterriblerecriminationonthepartof theIndians。ShouldwehearofanyatrocitiescommittedbytheArickarasupon captivewhitemen,letthissignalandrecentprovocationbeborneinmind。 Individualcasesofthekinddwellintherecollectionsofwholetribes;anditisapointofhonorandconsciencetorevengethem。Thelossofhishorsescompletedtheruinoftheunluckypartisan。Itwasoutof hispowertoprosecutehishunting,ortomaintainhisparty;theonlythoughtnow washowtogetbacktocivilizedlife。Atthefirstwater-course,hismenbuilt canoes,andcommittedthemselvestothestream。Someengagedthemselvesat varioustradingestablishmentsatwhichtheytouched,othersgotbacktothe settlements。Astothepartisan,hefoundanopportunitytomakehiswaytothe rendezvousatGreenRiverValley;whichhereachedintimetorendertoCaptain Bonnevillethisforlornaccountofhismisadventures。[ReturntoContents]Irving”sBonneville-Chapter20[ReturntoContents]WashingtonIrving”sTheAdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleChapter20GatheringinGreenRivervalley——Visitingsandfeastingsofleaders——Roughwassailing amongthetrappers——Wildbladesofthemountains——Indianbelles——Potencyofbright beadsandredblankets——Arrivalofsupplies——Revelryandextravagance——Mad wolves——ThelostIndianTHEGREENRIVERVALLEYwasatthistimethesceneofoneofthosegeneral gatheringsoftraders,trappers,andIndians,thatwehavealreadymentioned。Thethree rivalcompanies,which,forayearpasthadbeenendeavoringtoout-trade,out-trapand out-witeachother,werehereencampedincloseproximity,awaitingtheirannual supplies。AboutfourmilesfromtherendezvousofCaptainBonnevillewasthatofthe AmericanFurCompany,hardbywhich,wasthatalsooftheRockyMountainFurCompany。Aftertheeagerrivalryandalmosthostilitydisplayedbythesecompaniesintheirlate campaigns,itmightbeexpectedthat,whenthusbroughtinjuxtaposition,theywould holdthemselveswarilyandsternlyalooffromeachother,and,shouldtheyhappentocomeincontact,brawlandbloodshedwouldensue。Nosuchthing!Neverdidrivallawyers,afterawrangleatthebar,meetwithmoresocial goodhumoratacircuitdinner。Thehuntingseasonover,allpasttricksandmaneuvres areforgotten,allfeudsandbickeringsburiedinoblivion。FromthemiddleofJunetothe middleofSeptember,alltrappingissuspended;forthebeaversarethensheddingtheir fursandtheirskinsareoflittlevalue。This,then,isthetrapper”sholiday,whenheisallforfunandfrolic,andreadyforasaturnaliaamongthemountains。Atthepresentseason,too,allpartieswereingoodhumor。Theyearhadbeen productive。Competition,bythreateningtolessentheirprofits,hadquickenedtheirwits, rousedtheirenergies,andmadethemturneveryfavorablechancetothebest advantage;sothat,onassemblingattheirrespectiveplacesofrendezvous,eachcompanyfounditselfinpossessionofarichstockofpeltries。Theleadersofthedifferentcompanies,therefore,mingledontermsofperfectgood fellowship;interchangingvisits,andregalingeachotherinthebeststyletheir respectivecampsafforded。Buttherichtreatfortheworthycaptainwastoseethe “chivalry“ofthevariousencampments,engagedincontestsofskillatrunning,jumping, wrestling,shootingwiththerifle,andrunninghorses。Andthentheirroughhunters” feastingsandcarousels。Theydranktogether,theysang,theylaughed,theywhooped; theytriedtoout-bragandout-lieeachotherinstoriesoftheiradventuresand achievements。Herethefreetrapperswereinalltheirglory;theyconsidered themselvesthe“cocksofthewalk,“andalwayscarriedthehighestcrests。Nowand thenfamiliaritywaspushedtoofar,andwouldeffervesceintoabrawl,anda“roughandtumble“fight;butitallendedincordialreconciliationandmaudlinendearment。ThepresenceoftheShoshonietribecontributedoccasionallytocausetemporary jealousiesandfeuds。TheShoshoniebeautiesbecameobjectsofrivalryamongsome oftheamorousmountaineers。Happywasthetrapperwhocouldmusterupared blanket,astringofgaybeads,orapaperofpreciousvermilion,withwhichtowinthesmilesofaShoshoniefairone。Thecaravansofsuppliesarrivedatthevalleyjustatthisperiodofgallantryandgood fellowship。Nowcommencedasceneofeagercompetitionandwildprodigalityatthe differentencampments。Baleswerehastilyrippedopen,andtheirmotleycontents pouredforth。Amaniaforpurchasingspreaditselfthroughouttheseveral bands——munitionsforwar,forhunting,forgallantry,wereseizeduponwithequal avidity——rifles,huntingknives,traps,scarletcloth,redblankets,garishbeads,and glitteringtrinkets,wereboughtatanyprice,andscoresrunupwithoutanythoughthow theywereevertoberubbedoff。Thefreetrappers,especially,wereextravagantintheir purchases。Forafreemountaineertopauseatapaltryconsiderationofdollarsand cents,intheattainmentofanyobjectthatmightstrikehisfancy,wouldstamphimwith themarkofthebeastintheestimationofhiscomrades。Foratradertorefuseoneof thesefreeandflourishingbladesacredit,whateverunpaidscoresmightstarehimintheface,wouldbeaflagrantaffrontscarcelytobeforgiven。Nowsucceededanotheroutbreakofrevelryandextravagance。Thetrapperswere newlyfittedoutandarrayed,anddashedaboutwiththeirhorsescaparisonedinIndian style。TheShoshoniebeautiesalsoflauntedaboutinallthecolorsoftherainbow。 Everyfreakofprodigalitywasindulgedtoitsfullestextent,andinalittlewhilemostof thetrappers,havingsquanderedawayalltheirwages,andperhapsrunknee-deepindebt,werereadyforanotherhardcampaigninthewilderness。Duringthisseasonoffollyandfrolic,therewasanalarmofmadwolvesinthetwolower camps。Oneormoreoftheseanimalsenteredthecampsforthreenightssuccessively,andbitseveralofthepeople。CaptainBonnevillerelatesthecaseofanIndian,whowasauniversalfavoriteinthe lowercamp。Hehadbeenbittenbyoneoftheseanimals。Beingoutwithapartyshortly afterwards,hegrewsilentandgloomy,andlaggedbehindtherestasifhewishedto leavethem。Theyhaltedandurgedhimtomovefaster,butheentreatedthemnotto approachhim,and,leapingfromhishorse,begantorollfranticallyontheearth, gnashinghisteethandfoamingatthemouth。Stillheretainedhissenses,andwarned hiscompanionsnottocomenearhim,asheshouldnotbeabletorestrainhimselffrom bitingthem。Theyhurriedofftoobtainrelief;butontheirreturnhewasnowheretobe found。Hishorseandhisaccoutrementsremaineduponthespot。Threeorfourdays afterwardsasolitaryIndian,believedtobethesame,wasobservedcrossingavalley, andpursued;buthedartedawayintothefastnessesofthemountains,andwasseennomore。Anotherinstancewehavefromadifferentpersonwhowaspresentintheencampment。 OneofthemenoftheRockyMountainFurCompanyhadbeenbitten。Hesetout shortlyafterwardsincompanywithtwowhitemenonhisreturntothesettlements。In thecourseofafewdaysheshowedsymptomsofhydrophobia,andbecameraving towardnight。Atlength,breakingawayfromhiscompanions,herushedintoathicketof willows,wheretheylefthimtohisfate![ReturntoContents]Irving”sBonneville-Chapter21[ReturntoContents]WashingtonIrving”sTheAdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleChapter21SchemesofCaptainBonneville——TheGreatSaltLake——Expeditiontoexplore it——PreparationsforajourneytotheBighornCAPTAINBONNEVILLEnowfoundhimselfattheheadofahardy,well-seasonedand well-appointedcompanyoftrappers,allbenefitedbyatleastoneyear”sexperience amongthemountains,andcapableofprotectingthemselvesfromIndianwilesand stratagems,andofprovidingfortheirsubsistencewherevergamewastobefound。He had,also,anexcellenttroopofhorses,inprimecondition,andfitforhardservice。He determined,therefore,tostrikeoutintosomeofthebolderpartsofhisscheme。Oneof thesewastocarryhisexpeditionsintosomeoftheunknowntractsoftheFarWest, beyondwhatisgenerallytermedthebuffalorange。Thiswouldhavesomethingofthe meritandcharmofdiscovery,sodeartoeverybraveandadventurousspirit。Another favoriteprojectwastoestablishatradingpostonthelowerpartoftheColumbiaRiver, neartheMultnomahvalley,andtoendeavortoretrieveforhiscountrysomeofthelosttradeofAstoria。Thefirstoftheabovementionedviewswas,atpresent,uppermostinhismind——the exploringofunknownregions。Amongthegrandfeaturesofthewildernessaboutwhich hewasroaming,onehadmadeavividimpressiononhismind,andbeenclothedbyhis imaginationwithvagueandidealcharms。Thisisagreatlakeofsaltwater,lavingthe feetofthemountains,butextendingfartothewest-southwest,intooneofthosevastandelevatedplateausofland,whichrangehighabovethelevelofthePacific。CaptainBonnevillegivesastrikingaccountofthelakewhenseenfromtheland。As youascendthemountainsaboutitsshores,sayshe,youbeholdthisimmensebodyof waterspreadingitselfbeforeyou,andstretchingfurtherandfurther,inonewideand far-reachingexpanse,untiltheeye,weariedwithcontinuedandstrainedattention, restsinthebluedimnessofdistance,uponloftyrangesofmountains,confidently assertedtorisefromthebosomofthewaters。Nearertoyou,thesmoothandunruffled surfaceisstuddedwithlittleislands,wherethemountainsheeproaminconsiderable numbers。Whatextentoflowlandmaybeencompassedbythehighpeaksbeyond, mustremainforthepresentmatterofmereconjecturethoughfromtheformofthe summits,andthebreakswhichmaybediscoveredamongthem,therecanbelittle doubtthattheyarethesourcesofstreamscalculatedtowaterlargetracts,whichare probablyconcealedfromviewbytherotundityofthelake”ssurface。Atsomefutureday, inallprobability,therichharvestofbeaverfur,whichmaybereasonablyanticipatedin suchaspot,willtemptadventurerstoreduceallthisdoubtfulregiontothepalpable certaintyofabeatentrack。Atpresent,however,destituteofthemeansofmaking boats,thetrapperstandsupontheshore,andgazesuponapromisedlandwhichhisfeetarenevertotread。SuchisthesomewhatfancifulviewwhichCaptainBonnevillegivestothisgreatbodyof water。Hehasevidentlytakenpartofhisideasconcerningitfromtherepresentationsof others,whohavesomewhatexaggerateditsfeatures。Itisreportedtobeaboutone hundredandfiftymileslong,andfiftymilesbroad。Therangesofmountainpeakswhich CaptainBonnevillespeaksof,asrisingfromitsbosom,areprobablythesummitsof mountainsbeyondit,whichmaybevisibleatavastdistance,whenviewedfroman eminence,inthetransparentatmosphereoftheseloftyregions。Severallargeislands certainlyexistinthelake;oneofwhichissaidtobemountainous,butnotbyanymeanstotheextentrequiredtofurnishtheseriesofpeaksabovementioned。CaptainSublette,inoneofhisearlyexpeditionsacrossthemountains,issaidtohave sentfourmeninaskincanoe,toexplorethelake,whoprofessedtohavenavigatedall roundit;buttohavesufferedexcessivelyfromthirst,thewaterofthelakebeingextremelysalt,andtherebeingnofreshstreamsrunningintoit。CaptainBonnevilledoubtsthisreport,orthatthemenaccomplishedthe circumnavigation,because,hesays,thelakereceivesseverallargestreamsfromthe mountainswhichboundittotheeast。Inthespring,whenthestreamsareswollenby rainandbythemeltingofthesnows,thelakerisesseveralfeetaboveitsordinarylevel duringthesummer,itgraduallysubsidesagain,leavingasparklingzoneofthefinestsaltuponitsshores。Theelevationofthevastplateauonwhichthislakeissituated,isestimatedbyCaptain Bonnevilleatoneandthree-fourthsofamileabovetheleveloftheocean。The admirablepurityandtransparencyoftheatmosphereinthisregion,allowingobjectsto beseen,andthereportoffirearmstobeheard,atanastonishingdistance;andits extremedryness,causingthewheelsofwagonstofallinpieces,asinstancedinformer passagesofthiswork,areproofsofthegreataltitudeoftheRockyMountainplains。 Thatabodyofsaltwatershouldexistatsuchaheightiscitedasasingular phenomenonbyCaptainBonneville,thoughthesaltlakeofMexicoisnotmuchinferiorinelevation。Tohavethislakeproperlyexplored,andallitssecretsrevealed,wasthegrandscheme ofthecaptainforthepresentyear;andwhileitwasoneinwhichhisimagination evidentlytookaleadingpart,hebelieveditwouldbeattendedwithgreatprofit,fromthenumerousbeaverstreamswithwhichthelakemustbefringed。Thismomentousundertakingheconfidedtohislieutenant,Mr。Walker,inwhose experienceandabilityhehadgreatconfidence。Heinstructedhimtokeepalongthe shoresofthelake,andtrapinallthestreamsonhisroute;alsotokeepajournal,and minutelytorecordtheeventsofhisjourney,andeverythingcuriousorinteresting,makingmapsorchartsofhisroute,andofthesurroundingcountry。Nopainsnorexpenseweresparedinfittingouttheparty,offortymen,whichhewasto command。Theyhadcompletesuppliesforayear,andweretomeetCaptainBonneville intheensuingsummer,inthevalleyofBearRiver,thelargesttributaryoftheSaltLake,whichwastobehispointofgeneralrendezvous。ThenextcareofCaptainBonnevillewastoarrangeforthesafetransportationofthe peltrieswhichhehadcollectedtotheAtlanticStates。Mr。RobertCampbell,thepartner ofSublette,wasatthistimeintherendezvousoftheRockyMountainFurCompany, havingbroughtuptheirsupplies。Hewasabouttosetoffonhisreturn,withthepeltries collectedduringtheyear,andintendedtoproceedthroughtheCrowcountry,tothe headofnavigationontheBighornRiver,andtodescendinboatsdownthatriver,theMissouri,andtheYellowstone,toSt。Louis。CaptainBonnevilledeterminedtoforwardhispeltriesbythesameroute,underthe especialcareofMr。Cerre。Bywayofescort,hewouldaccompanyCerretothepointof embarkation,andthenmakeanautumnalhuntintheCrowcountry。[ReturntoContents]Irving”sBonneville-Chapter22[ReturntoContents]WashingtonIrving”sTheAdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleChapter22TheCrowcountry——ACrowparadise——HabitsoftheCrows——AnecdotesofRose,the renegadewhiteman——HisfightswiththeBlackfeet——Hiselevation——His death——Arapooish,theCrowchief——Hiseagle——AdventureofRobertCampbell——Honor amongCrowsBEFOREWEACCOMPANYCaptainBonnevilleintotheCrowcountry,wewillimparta fewfactsaboutthiswildregion,andthewildpeoplewhoinhabitit。Wearenotawareof thepreciseboundaries,ifthereareany,ofthecountryclaimedbytheCrows;it appearstoextendfromtheBlackHillstotheRockyMountains,includingapartoftheir loftyranges,andembracingmanyoftheplainsandvalleyswateredbytheWindRiver, theYellowstone,thePowderRiver,theLittleMissouri,andtheNebraska。Thecountry variesinsoilandclimate;therearevastplainsofsandandclay,studdedwithlargered sand-hills;otherpartsaremountainousandpicturesque;itpossesseswarmsprings,andcoalmines,andaboundswithgame。ButletusgivetheaccountofthecountryasrenderedbyArapooish,aCrowchief,toMr。RobertCampbell,oftheRockyMountainFurCompany。“TheCrowcountry,“saidhe,“isagoodcountry。TheGreatSpirithasputitexactlyin therightplace;whileyou-areinityoufarewell;wheneveryougooutofit,whicheverwayyoutravel,youfareworse。“Ifyougotothesouth,youhavetowanderovergreatbarrenplainsjthewateriswarmandbad,andyoumeetthefeverandague。“Tothenorthitiscold;thewintersarelongandbitter,withnograssjyoucannotkeephorsesthere,butmusttravelwithdogs。Whatisacountrywithouthorses?“OntheColumbiatheyarepooranddirty,paddleaboutincanoes,andeatfish。Their teetharewornout;theyarealwaystakingfish-bonesoutoftheirmouths。Fishispoorfood。“Totheeast,theydwellinvillages;theylivewell;buttheydrinkthemuddywateroftheMissouri——thatisbad。ACrow”sdogwouldnotdrinksuchwater。“AbouttheforksoftheMissouriisafinecountry;goodwater;goodgrass;plentyof buffalo。Insummer,itisalmostasgoodastheCrowcountry;butinwinteritiscold;thegrassisgone;andthereisnosaltweedforthehorses。“TheCrowcountryisexactlyintherightplace。Ithassnowymountainsandsunny plains;allkindsofclimatesandgoodthingsforeveryseason。Whenthesummerheats scorchtheprairies,youcandrawupunderthemountains,wheretheairissweetand cool,thegrassfresh,andthebrightstreamscometumblingoutofthesnow-banks。 Thereyoucanhunttheelk,thedeer,andtheantelope,whentheirskinsarefitfordressing;thereyouwillfindplentyofwhitebearsandmountainsheep。“Intheautumn,whenyourhorsesarefatandstrongfromthemountainpastures,you cangodownintotheplainsandhuntthebuffalo,ortrapbeaveronthestreams。And whenwintercomeson,youcantakeshelterinthewoodybottomsalongtherivers; thereyouwillfindbuffalomeatforyourselves,andcotton-woodbarkforyourhorses:oryoumaywinterintheWindRivervalley,wherethereissaltweedinabundance。“TheCrowcountryisexactlyintherightplace。Everythinggoodistobefoundthere。 ThereisnocountryliketheCrowcountry。” SuchistheeulogiumonhiscountrybyArapooish。Wehavehadrepeatedoccasionstospeakoftherestlessandpredatoryhabitsofthe Crows。Theycanmusterfifteenhundredfightingmen,buttheirincessantwarswiththeBlackfeet,andtheirvagabond,predatoryhabits,aregraduallywearingthemout。Inarecentwork,werelatedthecircumstanceofawhitemannamedRose,anoutlaw, andadesigningvagabond,whoactedasguideandinterpretertoMr。Huntandhis party,ontheirjourneyacrossthemountainstoAstoria,whocamenearbetrayingthem intothehandsoftheCrows,andwhoremainedamongthetribe,marryingoneoftheir women,andadoptingtheircongenialhabits。Afewanecdotesofthesubsequent fortunesofthatrenegademaynotbeuninteresting,especiallyastheyareconnectedwiththefortunesofthetribe。Rosewaspowerfulinframeandfearlessinspirit;andsoonbyhisdaringdeedstook hisrankamongthefirstbravesofthetribe。Heaspiredtocommand,andknewitwas onlytobeattainedbydesperateexploits。Hedistinguishedhimselfinrepeatedactions withBlackfeet。Ononeoccasion,abandofthosesavageshadfortifiedthemselves withinabreastwork,andcouldnotbeharmed。Roseproposedtostormthework。“Who willtakethelead?“wasthedemand。“I!“criedhe;andputtinghimselfattheirhead, rushedforward。ThefirstBlackfootthatopposedhimheshotdownwithhisrifle,and, snatchingupthewar-clubofhisvictim,killedfourotherswithinthefort。Thevictorywas complete,andRosereturnedtotheCrowvillagecoveredwithglory,andbearingfive Blackfootscalps,tobeerectedasatrophybeforehislodge。Fromthistime,hewas knownamongtheCrowsbythenameofChe-ku-kaats,or“themanwhokilledfive。”He becamechiefofthevillage,orratherband,andforatimewasthepopularidol。His popularitysoonawakenedenvyamongthenativebraves;hewasastranger,an intruder,awhiteman。Apartysecededfromhiscommand。Feudsandcivilwars succeededthatlastedfortwoorthreeyears,untilRose,havingcontrivedtosethis adoptedbrethrenbytheears,leftthem,andwentdowntheMissouriin1823。Herehe fellinwithoneoftheearliesttrappingexpeditionssentbyGeneralAshleyacrossthe mountains。ItwasconductedbySmith,Fitzpatrick,andSublette。Roseenlistedwith themasguideandinterpreter。WhenhegotthemamongtheCrows,hewas exceedinglygenerouswiththeirgoods;makingpresentstothebravesofhisadoptedtribe,asbecameahigh-mindedchief。This,doubtless,helpedtorevivehispopularity。Inthatexpedition,SmithandFitzpatrick wererobbedoftheirhorsesinGreenRivervalley;theplacewheretherobberytook placestillbearsthenameofHorseCreek。Wearenotinformedwhetherthehorses werestolenthroughtheinstigationandmanagementofRose;itisnotimprobable,for suchwastheperfidyhehadintendedtopracticeonaformeroccasiontowardMr。Huntandhisparty。ThelastanecdotewehaveofRoseisfromanIndiantrader。WhenGeneralAtkinson madehismilitaryexpeditionuptheMissouri,in1825,toprotectthefurtrade,hehelda conferencewiththeCrownation,atwhichRosefiguredasIndiandignitaryandCrow interpreter。Themilitarywerestationedatsomelittledistancefromthesceneofthe“big talk“;whilethegeneralandthechiefsweresmokingpipesandmakingspeeches,the officers,supposingallwasfriendly,leftthetroops,anddrewnearthesceneof ceremonial。SomeofthemoreknowingCrows,perceivingthis,stolequietlytothe camp,and,unobserved,contrivedtostopthetouch-holesofthefield-pieceswithdirt。 Shortlyafter,amisunderstandingoccurredintheconference:someoftheIndians, knowingthecannontobeuseless,becameinsolent。Atumultarose。Intheconfusion, ColonelO”Fallansnappedapistolinthefaceofabrave,andknockedhimdownwith thebuttend。TheCrowswereallinafury。Achance-medleyfightwasonthepointof takingplace,whenRose,hisnaturalsympathiesasawhitemansuddenlyrecurring, brokethestockofhisfuseeovertheheadofaCrowwarrior,andlaidsovigorously abouthimwiththebarrel,thathesoonputthewholethrongtoflight。Luckily,asno liveshadbeenlost,thissturdyribroastingcalmedthefuryoftheCrows,andthetumultendedwithoutseriousconsequences。Whatwastheultimatefateofthisvagabondheroisnotdistinctlyknown。Somereport himtohavefallenavictimtodisease,broughtonbyhislicentiouslife;othersassert thathewasmurderedinafeudamongtheCrows。Afterall,hisresidenceamongthese savages,andtheinfluenceheacquiredoverthem,had,foratime,somebeneficial effects。Heissaid,notmerelytohaverenderedthemmoreformidabletotheBlackfeet, buttohaveopenedtheireyestothepolicyofcultivatingthefriendshipofthewhitemen。AfterRose”sdeath,hispolicycontinuedtobecultivated,withindifferentsuccess,by Arapooish,thechiefalreadymentioned,whohadbeenhisgreatfriend,andwhose characterhehadcontributedtodevelope。Thissagaciouschiefendeavored,onevery occasion,torestrainthepredatorypropensitiesofhistribewhendirectedagainstthe whitemen。“Ifwekeepfriendswiththem,“saidhe,“wehavenothingtofearfromthe Blackfeet,andcanrulethemountains。”Arapooishpretendedtobeagreat“medicine man“,acharacteramongtheIndianswhichisacompoundofpriest,doctor,prophet, andconjurer。Hecarriedaboutwithhimatameeagle,ashis“medicine“orfamiliar。 Withthewhitemen,heacknowledgedthatthiswasallcharlatanism,butsaiditwasnecessary,togivehimweightandinfluenceamonghispeople。Mr。RobertCampbell,fromwhomwehavemostofthesefacts,inthecourseofoneof histrappingexpeditions,wasquarteredinthevillageofArapooish,andaguestinthe lodgeofthechieftain。Hehadcollectedalargequantityoffurs,and,fearfulofbeing plundered,depositedbutapartinthelodgeofthechief;therestheburiedinacache。 Onenight,Arapooishcameintothelodgewithacloudybrow,andseatedhimselffora timewithoutsayingaword。Atlength,turningtoCampbell,“Youhavemorefurswith you,“saidhe,“thanyouhavebroughtintomylodge?“ “Ihave,“repliedCampbell。 “Wherearethey?“CampbellknewtheuselessnessofanyprevaricationwithanIndian;andthe importanceofcompletefrankness。Hedescribedtheexactplacewherehehadconcealedhispeltries。“”Tiswell,“repliedArapooish;“youspeakstraight。Itisjustasyousay。Butyourcachehasbeenrobbed。Goandseehowmanyskinshavebeentakenfromit。”Campbellexaminedthecache,andestimatedhislosstobeaboutonehundredandfiftybeaverskins。Arapooishnowsummonedameetingofthevillage。Hebitterlyreproachedhispeople forrobbingastrangerwhohadconfidedtotheirhonor;andcommandedthatwhoever hadtakentheskins,shouldbringthemback:declaringthat,asCampbellwashisguestandinmateofhislodge,hewouldnoteatnordrinkuntileveryskinwasrestoredtohim。Themeetingbrokeup,andeveryonedispersed。ArapooishnowchargedCampbellto giveneitherrewardnorthankstoanyonewhoshouldbringinthebeaverskins,buttokeepcountastheyweredelivered。Inalittlewhile,theskinsbegantomaketheirappearance,afewatatime;theywere laiddowninthelodge,andthosewhobroughtthemdepartedwithoutsayingaword。 Thedaypassedaway。Arapooishsatinonecornerofhislodge,wrappedupinhis robe,scarcelymovingamuscleofhiscountenance。Whennightarrived,hedemanded ifalltheskinshadbeenbroughtin。Aboveahundredhadbeengivenup,andCampbell expressedhimselfcontented。NotsotheCrowchieftain。Hefastedallthatnight,nor tastedadropofwater。Inthemorning,somemoreskinswerebroughtin,andcontinued tocome,oneandtwoatatime,throughouttheday,untilbutafewwerewantingto makethenumbercomplete。Campbellwasnowanxioustoputanendtothisfastingof theoldchief,andagaindeclaredthathewasperfectlysatisfied。Arapooishdemanded whatnumberofskinswereyetwanting。Onbeingtold,hewhisperedtosomeofhis people,whodisappeared。Afteratimethenumberwerebroughtin,thoughitwas evidenttheywerenotanyoftheskinsthathadbeenstolen,butothersgleanedinthe village。 “Isallrightnow?“demandedArapooish。 “Allisright,“repliedCampbell。 “Good!Nowbringmemeatanddrink!“ Whentheywerealonetogether,Arapooishhadaconversationwithhisguest。“WhenyoucomeanothertimeamongtheCrows,“saidhe,“don”thideyourgoods:trust tothemandtheywillnotwrongyou。Putyourgoodsinthelodgeofachief,andthey aresacred;hidetheminacache,andanyonewhofindswillstealthem。Mypeople havenowgivenupyourgoodsformysake;buttherearesomefoolishyoungmenin thevillage,whomaybedisposedtobetroublesome。Don”tlinger,therefore,butpackyourhorsesandbeoff。”Campbelltookhisadvice,andmadehiswaysafelyoutoftheCrowcountry。Hehas eversincemaintainedthattheCrowsarenotsoblackastheyarepainted。“Trustto theirhonor,“sayshe,“andyouaresafe:trusttotheirhonesty,andtheywillstealthehairoffyourhead。”Havinggiventhesefewpreliminaryparticulars,wewillresumethecourseofour narrative。[ReturntoContents]Irving”sBonneville-Chapter23[ReturntoContents]WashingtonIrving”sTheAdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleChapter23DeparturefromGreenRivervalley——PopoAgie——Itscourse——Theriversintowhichit runs——SceneryoftheBluffs——thegreatTarSpring——VolcanictractsintheCrow country——BurningMountainofPowderRiver——Sulphursprings——Hiddenfires——Colter”s Hell——WindRiver——Campbell”sparty——Fitzpatrickandhistrappers——CaptainStewart,an amateurtraveller——NathanielWyeth——AnecdotesofhisexpeditiontotheFar West——DisasterofCampbell”sparty——Aunionofbands——TheBadPass——The rapids——DepartureofFitzpatrick——Embarkationofpeltries——Wyethandhisbull boat——AdventuresofCaptainBonnevilleintheBighornMountains——Adventuresinthe plain——TracesofIndians——Travellingprecautions——Dangersofmakingasmoke——The rendezvousONTHE25THofJuly,CaptainBonnevillestruckhistents,andsetoutonhisroutefor theBighorn,attheheadofapartyoffifty-sixmen,includingthosewhoweretoembark withCerre。CrossingtheGreenRivervalley,heproceededalongthesouthpointofthe WindRiverrangeofmountains,andsoonfelluponthetrackofMr。RobertCampbell”s party,whichhadprecededhimbyaday。Thishepursued,untilheperceivedthatitled downthebanksoftheSweetWatertothesoutheast。Asthiswasdifferentfromhis proposeddirection,heleftit;andturningtothenortheast,sooncameuponthewaters ofthePopoAgie。ThisstreamtakesitsriseintheWindRiverMountains。Itsname,like mostIndiannames,ischaracteristic。Popo,intheCrowlanguage,signifieshead;andAgie,river。Itistheheadofalongriver,extendingfromthesouthendoftheWind River Mountainsinanortheastdirection,untilitfallsintotheYellowstone。Itscourseis generallythroughplains,butistwicecrossedbychainsofmountains;thefirstcalledthe Littlehorn;thesecond,theBighorn。Afterithasforceditswaythroughthefirstchain,it iscalledtheHornRiver;afterthesecondchain,itiscalledtheBighornRiver。Its passagethroughthislastchainisroughandviolent;makingrepeatedfalls,andrushing downlongandfuriousrapids,whichthreatendestructiontothenavigator;thougha hardytrapperissaidtohaveshotdowntheminacanoe。Atthefootoftheserapids,is theheadofnavigation;whereitwastheintentionofthepartiestoconstructboats,andembark。