CHAPTERIII。
ROUTETONICOSIA。
Havingprovedthatanyfurtherprogresswestwasquiteimpracticablebyvans，IreturnedtothenewmainroadfromLarnaca，andcarefullyavoidingit，wekeptuponthenaturalsurfacebythesidedrain，andtravelledtowardsDali，theancientIdalium。
Thethermometerat8A。M。showed37degrees，andthewindwaskeen。Theroadlaythroughamostdesolatecountryofchalkhillscompletelybarren，diversifiedoccasionallybytheice-likecrystalsofgypsumcroppingoutinhugemasses。Inoneofthemostdrearyspotsthatcanbeimaginedtheeyewasrelievedbyalittleflat-toppedhutontherighthand，whichexhibitedasign，“TheDewdropInn。“Thenamewashardlyappropriate，astheearthappearedasthoughneitherdewnorrainhadblessedthesurface；butIbelievethatwhiskywasrepresentedbythe“Dewdrop，“andthatthewordwasintendedtoimplyaninvitation，“Do-drop-in。“Ofcoursewedroppedin，beingaboutanhourinadvanceofourvans，andIfoundthelandlordmostobliging，andabottleofBass\'spalealemostrefreshinginthishorrible-lookingdesertofchalkandthistlesthathadbecomeaquasi-Britishcolony。Thisunfortunatemanandoneortwopartnerswereamongthosedeludedvictimswhohadsacrificedthemselvestotheimpulseofourfirstoccupation，upontheprinciplethat“theearlybirdgetstheworm。“Insteadofgettingon，thepartnerswentoff，andlefttherepresentativeofthe“Dewdrop“inaphysicalstateofweaknessfromattacksoffever，andthegoodindustriousmanwithlittlehopeofagoldenfuture。
Passingonafteraconversationwithourlandlord，whichdidnotcheermesomuchasthepaleale，wecontinuedthroughthesamedesolatecountryforabouttwomiles，andthenturnedoffonthelefthandtowardsDali。Wepassedthroughanarrowvalleyofseveralhundredacresplantedinvineyards，andwecountedfourolive-trees，thefirstgreenobjectsorsignsoftreesthatwehadseensinceLarnaca！Wethencontinuedthroughwhitebarrenhillsforanothertwomiles，anddescendedasteephill，haltingforthenightuponhardflatgypsumrockoppositeavillagenamed“Lauranchina，“abovethedrybedofatorrent，twelvemilesfromLarnaca。
Onthefollowingmorning，afteraslightshower，westartedforDali。
Thenarrowvalleysweremoreorlesscultivatedwithvines，andaboutthreemilesfromthehalting-placeweenteredthefertileplainofDali。
Thisisaboutsixmileslong，byoneinwidth，highlycultivated，withtheriverflowingthroughthemidst。Asfaraswecouldseeinadirectlinegrovesofolives，vineyards，andploughedland，diversifiedbyvillages，exhibitedthepowerofwaterinconvertingsterilityintowealth。
Ialwaysmakearulethatthehalting-placeshallbeataconsiderabledistancefromavillageortownforsanitaryreasons，astheenvironsaregenerallyunclean。Alltravellersarewellawarethattheirservantsandgeneralentouragedelightintownsorvillages，astheydiscoverfriends，ormakeacquaintances，andrelievethetediumofthejourney；
thereforeanantagonisticinfluenceinvariablyexistsuponthequestionofacamping-ground。Itisaccordinglymostdifficulttobelievethestatementsofyourinterpreter：hemayhaveoldfriendsinatowntowhichyoubelievehimtobeastranger；hemayhavetheremainsofanoldlove，andawishtomeetagain；orhemayhaveastillmorepowerfulattractionintheremembranceofanagreeablecafewherehecanrefreshhimselfwithliquor，revelincigarettes，andplayatdominoes。Itisthereforenecessarytobeuponyourguardwhenapproachingatown，whichshouldbelookeduponastheenemy\'scamp。
Myamiablebullock-driver，thebigGeorgi，hadalwaysassuredmethat“gameaboundedintheimmediateneighbourhoodofDali；“ofcourseIknewthatthehappyhunting-groundcontainedsomespecialinterestforhimself。UponarrivalontheoutskirtsIorderedthevanstopassontheoutsideofthetown，andIwouldseekacamping-placeup-stream。InsteadofthisIwasassuredthatweshouldpassthroughthetown，andfindalovelygroveofolive-treesbytheriver-side，theperfectionofahalting-place。ForthefirsttimeInowdiscoveredthatGeorgi\'swifeandfamilylivedinDali，andthathewasnotsuchafoolashelooked。
Inafewminutesweweredescendingalanesonarrowthatthegipsyvanonlyclearedthewallsofthehousesoneithersidebythreeorfourinches。Thislanehadbeenpavedcenturiesagowithstonesofallsizes，fromamoderategrindstonetothatofafootball。Whenpeoplehadwishedtobuildanewhouse，theyhadtakenupafewstonestomakeafoundation；thestreetwasaseriesofpitfallsfilledwithmudandfilth，includingminiaturepondsofmanure-colouredwater。Thesurfaceappearedimpassable；theprojectingwater-spoutsfromthelowroofsstuckoutlikethegnarledboughsoftrees。Herewasaprettymess！——allbecauseGeorgi\'swifewasintown。Itwasimpossibleforanythinglargerthanaperambulatortoturn，andasthespringsyieldedtotheunevenground，thevanbumpedagainstthewallsofthehousesandthreateneddestruction。“Halt！”wastheonlyword，andasthedrag-shoewasonthewheel，westopped。Atthismomentofdifficultyapriestandsomeoldwomenappearedwithearthenvesselssmokingwithburningoliveleaves；
theyimmediatelypassedthesmokebeneaththenostrilsoftheoxen，thenaroundthevan，andlastlyourselves。Atthesametimesomegoodyoungwomenthreworange-flowerwaterovermywifeandmyselffromprettyglassvaseswithnarrownecksasasignofwelcome。Theincenseofthepriestswassupposedtoavertthe“evil-eye“fromthegipsyvanandourparty。Ifeltmuchobligedforthegoodintention，butIdidnotmindthe“evileye“somuchasthewater-spouts。InmyexperienceoftravellingInevermetwithsuchkindandcourteouspeopleastheinhabitantsofCyprus。TheDalipopulationhadalreadyblockedthenarrowstreetsfromcuriosityatourarrival，andsoonunderstandingthecauseofourdilemma，theymountedthehousetopsandtoreofftheobstructingwater-spouts；wheretheseprojectionsweretoostrong，theysawedthemoffclosetotheeaves。Acrowdofmenpushedthevanfrombehind，andguidedtheoxen，whileothersassistedbydiggingupthelargepaving-stonesthatwouldhavetilteditagainstthehouse-walls。
Inthismannerwearrivedwithoutseriousaccidentuponthebankoftheriverwhichranthroughthetown。Therewasanopenspaceherewhichwascrowdedwithwomenandgirls，who，withfemininecuriosity，hadassembledtoseetheEnglishlady。AmongthesewastheprettiestyoungwomanIhaveseeninCyprus，withachildinherarms。HerlargeblueeyesandperfectGrecianfeatureswereenhancedbyasweetgentleexpressionofcountenance。Sheseemedmorethanothersdelightedatourarrival。ThiswasGeorgi\'swife！——andIatonceforgavehimfordeceivingusandyieldingtothenaturalattractionofhishome。
Wewerenotquiteoutofourdifficulty。Severalhundredpeoplehadassembled，andallspokeatonce，raisingtheirvoicesinthehopethatweshouldunderstandtheirGreekbetterthanifspokeninamoderatetone：(whypeoplewillspeakloudifyoudonotknowtheirlanguageI
cannotunderstand：)butaswewereutterlyignorantoftheirmeaningwewerenotconfusedbytheirdifferencesofopinionrespectingourdirection。Itendedinourcrossingthestonybedoftheriver，throughwhichareducedstreamonlyafewinchesdeepflowedinthecentre，andhavingwithdifficultygainedtheoppositebankahundredyardsdistant，wesoonarrivedinasortofnaturaleel-trapformedbyanarrowavenueofgiganticolive-trees，thebranchesofwhicheffectuallybarredourprogressandpreventedthevansfromturning。
Atemporarylossoftemperwasanaturalconsequence，andhavingriddeninadvanceforabouthalfamile，Ireturnedandorderedaretreat。Wetookthebullocksout，andbyhandbackedthewheels，untilbyshovelsandpickswecouldclearaspaceforturning。Wethenre-crossedtheriver，anddisregardingallnativeadvice，struckintothecountry，andhaltednearasmallgroveofolivesclosetothenewEnglishroadtothemilitarystation“Mattiati。“
Itwasthe4thofFebruary，andthetemperatureinthemorningandeveningwastoocold(43degrees)forpleasantcamping。Inspiteofachillywind，crowdsofwomenandchildrensurroundedourvansandsatforhoursindulgingtheircuriosity，andshiveringinlightclothesofhome-madecotton-stuffs。Thechildrenweregenerallypretty，andsomeoftheyoungerwomenweregood-looking；buttherewasatotalneglectofpersonalappearancewhichisastrikingcharacteristicoftheCypriotefemales。Inmostcountries，whethersavageorcivilised，thewomenyieldtoanaturalinstinct，andtoacertainextentadorntheirpersonsandendeavourtorenderthemselvesattractive；butinCyprusthereisadistressingabsenceofthewholesomevanitythatshouldinduceattentiontodressandcleanliness。Theineleganceofcostumegivesanunpleasantpeculiaritytotheirfigures——thewholecrowdofgirlsandwomenlookedasthoughtheywereabouttobecomemothers。Thecoarseandroughly-tanned，uncared-forhighbootswithhugehobnailswereoverlappedbygreatbaggytrousers。Abovethesewereaconsiderablenumberofpetticoatslooselyhangingandtiedcarelesslyatthewaist，whichwastotallyunsupportedbyanysuchassistanceasstays。Asortofshortjacketthatwasofnoparticularcut，andpossessedtheadvantageoffittinganyvarietyofsizeorfigure，completedtheattire。Thebuttonsthatshouldhaveconfinedthedressinfrontweregenerallyabsent，andtheladieswerenotbashfulattheirloss，butexposedtheirbosomswithoutanyconsciousnessofindelicacy。Therewasnopeculiarityinthearrangementofthehair，buteachheadwastiedupinacloth，eitherwhiteorsomegaudycolour，which，oncegay，hadbeensoberedinitshuesbydirt。Inspiteofthisneglectedexterior，thewomenhadremarkablygoodmanners；theyseldomapproachedmywifewithoutpresenting，withagracefulgesture，somewildflowers，oralittlebunchofsweetherbs，whichtheyhadpurposelygathered，andwewerequicklymaderichinquantitiesofdoublenarcissus，marigolds，androsemary。Uponourarrivalatatownorvillagethegirlsandboyswouldfrequentlyruntotheirgardensandprovidethemselveswitheitherasingleflower，orrosemary，withwhichtheywouldawaitusinthestreetandofferthemaswepassedby。ThroughoutCypruswehavereceivedsimilarwell-meantattention，andthesimplicityanddelicacyoftheofferingcontrastsinananomalousmannerwiththedirtyhabitsandappearanceofthepeople。EvenGeorgi\'sprettywifewasuntidyaboutthehair，althoughshewasinherbestattire；andacloseinspectionofallwomenandgirlsshowedthattheirthroatsandbreastswereliterallycoveredwithancientandmodernfleabites。Theirdwellingsareextremelyfilthy，andswarmwithvermin，asthefowls，goats，orevenacowortwo，generallyincreasethedomesticparty。ItiswellknownthatPaphosinCypruswasthesupposedbirthplaceofVenus，andthattheislandwasatonetimecelebratedforthebeautyofwomenandimmorality：thechangehasbeenradical，asIbelievenowomenaremorechaste，andatthesametimelessattractive，thantheCypriotesofthepresenttime。
Theyaregenerallyshortandthickset；theyarehardlytreatedbythemen，astheyperformmostoftheroughworkincultivationoftheground，and，fromtheextremecoarsenessoftheirhands，theycanseldombeidle；themen，onthecontrary，areusuallygood-looking，andarefarmoreattentivetotheirpersonalappearance。
Daliwasaninterestingspottoanyagriculturist。Thesoilwasexceedinglyrich，asithadbeenformed，likeallvalleysinCyprus，bythealluviumwasheddownfromthesurroundinghills；thesewerefromthreetosixhundredfeetabovetheleveloftheplain，andwerecomposedoftheusualhardspeciesofchalkandgypsum；thusthedepositfromtheirdenudationbyrainssuppliedthechiefconstituentsforthegrowthofvinesandcereals。
ThereisadepressingabsenceofallrecentimprovementsinjourneyingthroughCyprus；evenatDali，wherethewaterfromtheriverwasusedforirrigation，andlargefarmsintheoccupationofthewealthylandowner，M。RichardMattei，weresuccessfullycultivated，Icouldnothelpremarkingthetotalneglectoftree-planting。Theancientolive-grovesstillexistbytheriver\'sside，and，couldtheyspeak，thosegrandoldtreeswouldbehistoriansofthegloriousdaysofCyprus；buttherearenorecentplantations，andthenativesexplainedthecauseintheusualmannerbyattributingallwretchednessandpopularapathytotheoppressionoftheTurkishrule。Thiswholesaleaccusationmustbereceivedwithcaution；therecanbenodoubtofthepre-existingmisrule，butatthesametimeitisimpossibletotravelthroughCypruswithoutthepainfulconvictionthatthemodernCyprioteisarecklesstree-destroyer，andthatdestructionismorenaturaltohischaracterthanthepropagationoftimber。Thereisnoreasonfortheneglectofolive-planting，butIobservedanabsenceofsuchcultivationwhichmusthaveprevailedduringseveralcenturies，evenduringtheVenetianrule。Itisdifficulttodeterminetheageofanolive-tree，whichisalmostimperishable；itisoneofthoseremarkableexamplesofvegetationthatillustratestheeternal，andexplainsthefirstinstinctsofadorationwhichtree-worshipexhibitedinthedistantpast。
IspentsomehourswiththeolivetreesofDali；theyweregrandoldspecimensoftheeverlasting。Onehealthytrunkinfullvigourmeasuredtwenty-ninefeetincircumference；another，twenty-eightfeettwoinches。Verymanywereupwardsoftwentyfeetbymymeasuring-tape；andhadIacceptedtheholloworsplittrees，thereweresomethatwouldhaveexceededfortyfeet。Therecanbelittledoubt，thattheseolivesthroveattheperiodwhenIdaliumwasthegreatcityinCyprus；theymayhaveexceededtwothousandyearsinage，butanysurmisewouldbethewildestconjecture。Itmaynotbegenerallyknownthattheolive，whichisofslowgrowthandawoodofexceedinghardness，remainsalwaysadwarftree；atalloliveisunknown，anditsomewhatresemblesapollardilex。Whenbyextremeagethetreehasbecomehollowitpossessesthepeculiarpowerofreproduction，notbythrowinguproot-shoots，butbysplittingtheoldhollowedtrunkintoseparatedivisions，whichbydegreesattainanindividuality，andeventuallythriveasnewandindependenttrees，formingagroupor“family-tree，“nourishedbythesamerootwhichanchoredtheoriginalancestor。
Thegnarled，weirdappearanceoftheseancientgrovesofsuchgiganticdimensionscontrastedsadlywiththetreelessexpansebeyond，andprovedthatCyprushadforverymanycenturiesbeenthevictimofneglect。Theoliveisindigenoustotheisland，andthelowscrubjunglesofBaffo，theCarpasdistrict，andotherportionsaboundwiththewildspecies，whichcanberenderedfruitfulbygrafting。Inselectingtreesfortheextensionofforests，thereisacommon-senseruletoguideusbyobservingthosevarietieswhichareindigenoustothecountry；thesecanbeobtainedatthelowestcost，andtheirsuccessisalmostassured，asnotimeneedbelostfromthedayoftheirremovaltothenewplantation。Suchtreesasarerenderedfruitfulbygraftingofferpeculiaradvantages，asthestocksalreadyexistuponwhichsuperiorvarietiesmaybeconnected。TheprincipalfoodoftheCypriotesconsistsofolives，beans，bread，andonions；theyseldomeatwhatweshouldcall“cookedfood；“whetherthisisowingtothescarcityoffuel，orwhetheritisnaturalinthisclimatetoavoidflesh，Icannotdetermine：somesaythepeoplearetoopoor，andcannotaffordmuttonattwopenceapound，whileatthesametimetheywillnotkilltheoxenthatarerequiredforpurposesofdraught；theyrefusethemilkofcows，andonlyusethatofsheeporgoats。Thefactremainsthatthecountrypeopleseldomeatbutcher\'smeat，butsubsistuponolives，oil，bread，cheese，andvegetables。
Underthesecircumstancesitwouldbenaturaltosupposethattheacceptedarticlesofconsumptionwouldbehighlycultivatedandsuperiorinquality；butthereverseisthefact。Theolive-oilissoinferiorthatforeignoilisimportedfromFrancefortheuseoftheupperclasses；theolivesareofapoordescription，and，asarule，fewvegetablesarecultivatedexceptintheimmediatevicinityoftownmarkets，theagriculturalpopulationorcountrypeoplebeingtoocarelesstoexcelinhorticulture，anddependingmainlyuponthewildvegetableswhichthesoilproducesinabundance。Ifthepeoplearetooinerttoimprovethequalitiesandtoextendthecultivationofvegetables，itiseasytocomprehendtheirneglectofthetree-plantingsonecessarytotheclimaticrequirementsofthisisland。
Theoil-pressissimilartotheold-fashionedcider-millofEngland。Thefruit，havingbeendriedinthesun，isplacedinacirculartroughinwhichthestonewheelrevolves，drivenbyamuleandpole。Whensufficientlycrushed，andreducedtoapaste，itisdividedintobasketfuls；thesearesubjectedtopressurebythecommonverticalscrew，andtheoilisexpressed，butisnotclarified。ItisgenerallyrancidandunfitforEuropeanconsumption。IntravellingthroughCyprusthemedicine-chestmaydispensewithcastor-oil，astheolive-oilofthecountryisagoodsubstitute。Bythegovernmentreport，theyieldofoilin1877wasestimatedat250，000okes(of23/4lbs。)valuedataboutninepiastresperoke，butduringthesameyearforeignolive-oiltothevalueof1，706poundssterlingwasimported。TherecanbelittledoubtthatspecialattentionshouldbebestowedupontheimprovementoftheolivecultivationinCyprus，andgraftsofthebestvarietiesshouldbeintroducedfromFranceandSpain；inafewyearsanimportantimprovementwouldresult，andthesuperabundantoilofapropitiousseasonwouldformanarticleofexport，insteadof(asatpresent)beingconvertedintosoap，asotherwiseunsaleable。
Ourcrowdoffemaleadmirerswashappilydispersedbyaslightshowerofrain，andbycloudswhichthreatenedadownpour；themenremained，andaswarthy-lookingthoroughbredTurkpromisedtoaccompanymeonthemorrowandshowmetheneighbourhood。IwasinformedinamysteriouswhisperbyaCypriote“thatthismanwasanotoriousrobber，whoseoccupationwasgonesincethearrivaloftheBritish；“hehadformedoneofagangthathadinfestedthemountains，andhisbrotherhadmurderedafriendofGeorgi(thevan-driver)，andwasnowingaolatRhodesforthecapitaloffence。TheTurkwasveryintelligent，andthoroughlyconversantwiththevariousmethodsofbreech-loadingfirearms；heexaminedseveralriflesandgunsbelongingtome，andatoncecomprehendedthemechanism，andexplainedittotheadmiringcrowd。Whenthisindividualleftourcampintheevening，thestorythatIhadheardinoutlinewascorroboratedbythedriverGeorgi，whoaskedmetoexertmyinfluencetoprocurethehangingofthemurderernowatRhodes，astheTurkishauthoritieswouldneverexecuteaTurkforthemurderofaGreekunlessinfluencedbyforeignpressure。ItappearedthattheCypriotehadinformedagainstoneofthegangforcattle-stealing，accordinglyseveralmembersofthefraternitypickedaquarrelwithhimatadrinking-shoponeeveningatDali，andstabbedhimfatally。Mynewacquaintance，theTurk，wasnotpresentduringthefray，andIcouldnotpromiseGeorgitheinterventionhedesired。
OnthefollowingmorningsevennativesofDaliappeared——allGreeks——accompaniedbytheex-robber，whomIregardedas“awickedmanwhohadturnedawayfromhiswickedness，“withwhoseantecedentsIhadnoconcern。Theyhadbroughttheirguns，whichwereatoncesubmittedtomeforanopinionoftheirmerits，withavainexpectationthatIshouldpronouncethemtobe“English。“Iwastobeguidedtoaspotaboutanhour\'smarchdistant，wherepartridgesandharesweresaidtoabound，anditappearedthatanimpromptushooting-partyhadbeenarrangedespeciallyformyamusement。
Iamnotveryfondofsuchsportingmeetings，asthecommongunsofthepeople，whichareconstantlymissingfirewhenrequiredtoshoot，haveanawkwardknackofgoingoffwhenleastexpected；mymindwassomewhatrelievedwhenthetacticswereexplained，thatwe(nineguns)weretoformalineofskirmishersabouttwohundredyardsapart，commandingamileofcountry。
Thereisagreatadvantageinsport，asthesearchforgameleadsatravellerintoallkindsofplaceswhichhewouldotherwiseleaveunseen。Itisagreatenjoymenttostrolloveranewcountryaccompaniedbygooddogs，andcombineatthesametimesportandexploration。
UponarrivalatthesummitofthehillrangewhichwehadpassedonourleftwhenwehadarrivedatDali，Iwaswellrepaid，andthenecessityofjudgingacountryfromahill-topinsteadoffromahighroadwaswellexemplified。Ilookeddownuponthehighly-cultivatedandfertilevalleyofLymbia，surpassinginextenttheplainofDali，andalthoughthesuccessiverangesofhillsandmountainswerebleakandbarrenintheirwhiteness，theinterveningvalleyswerealloccupiedeitherbyvineyardsorbyfieldsintillage。Eventheravinesuponthesteephill-sideswhichhadbeenscoredoutbytherainfallofageswereartificiallyarrangedtocatchthemeltedearthinitsdescentduringheavystorms，andtoformterracesofrichalluvium。
Asuccessionofroughwallscomposedofthelargerockswhichstrewedthesurface，werebuiltatconvenientintervalsacrosstheravines，formingaseriesofdamsorweirs。ThesoilofCyprusispeculiarindissolvingveryquicklyduringashower，andthewaterrollsdownthesteepinclinescarryingsomuchearthinsolution，that，shoulditscoursebechecked，itdepositsanimportantquantity，sufficientinafewseasonstoformasurfaceforaconsiderablearea。Thewallsofthedamsarecontinuallyraisedastheearthattainsahigherlevel，andthegroundthussavedisacompletegaintotheproprietor。
Thefewpartridgeswereverywild，andsavedmydogsthetroubleofhuntingbyshowingthemselvesatacoupleofhundredyards；theonlychanceofshootingthemdependeduponstraybirdspassingwithinshotwhendisturbedbythelonglineofguns。Ionlybaggedonepartridgeandahare，andtherestofthepartyhadthemiserabletotaloftwobirds。
Thiswasafairexampleofthesportonthebarehill-sidesofMessaria。
ThenewroadtoMattiatiwasunfitforvans；Ithereforerodeovertovisitthecampofthe20thRegiment，eightmilesdistant，andafterluncheonwiththeofficersofthatregimentIaccompaniedtheirpartytoLithrodondo，theColonelhavingkindlylentmeafreshhorse。Myaneroidshowedanincreasedelevationof330feetintheeightmilesfromDalitoMattiati。AfterleavingtheDaliplaintheroadpassesthroughtheusualhillsofhardchalk，butabouttwomilesfromtheentranceanimportantchangewasexhibitedinthegeologicalstructure。Eruptiverockshadburstthroughthechalk，producinginterestingmetamorphicphenomena。Thehillsnolongerfatiguedtheeyebythedesolateglare，buttheearthwasarichbrowndiversifiedwithpatchesofbrightchocolatecolour。
Thegreenstonecroppedoutthroughthesurfaceinlargemasses，accompaniedbyapeculiardun-stonepreciselysimilartothatofKnowlesHillinSouthDevon。Inacuttingthroughahill-sidebythegovernmentnewroadveinsofbrightyellowochrewereexposed，alsoredochreinconsiderablequantities。Itooksamplesoftheyellow，whichappearedtobeofagoodquality；butIbelievethecommercialvalueistooinsignificanttosupportthechargesofland-transportandthesubsequentfreightfromLarnaca。
Mattiatiisabout1300feetabovethesea-level。Thetroopswerecampedinwoodenhutsonlowhillsaboutfortyfeetaboveaflatvalley，whereolive-treesthroveinconsiderablenumbers。IshouldnothaveselectedMattiatiasasanitarystation；theplainshowedevidentsignsofbaddrainage，andtherichdeepsoilwouldbecomeaswampafterheavyrains。
Uponthelowhillswithinamileofthestationwerevastquantitiesofscoriaeorslagfromancientsmelting-furnaces，andtheremainsofbrokenpottery，mingledwithstonesthathadbeenusedinbuilding，provedthatimportantminingoperationshadbeencarriedoninformerages。
FromMattiatitoLithrodondothecountryisbrokenandlittlecultivated；therewasnolongerasignofcretaceousrock，buttheboldrangeofmountainsrosebeforeuscrownedbyMakheras，4730feet，apparentlycloseaboveus，darkinplutonicrocksandsparselycoveredwithmyrtlesandotherevergreens。Aswenearedthebaseofthemountains，thevegetationincreased，andpassingthedirtyvillageofLithrodondo，weentereduponasuccessionofhillsdividedbynumeroussmalltorrent-beds，thesteepbanksofwhichwerethicklyfringedwitholeanders，mastic，myrtles，andothershrubs，whichformedaninspiritingchangefromthewearytreelesscountrywehadleftbehind。
BeyondLithrodondoareextensivevineyards；butitwaslate，andIwasobligedtoturnbacktowardsDali，fifteenmilesdistant。
WhereverIhadbeensincemydeparturefromLarnacathenativeshadcomplainedoftheeffectsoffevertowhichtheyaresubjectedduringthesummermonths；buttheywereunanimousindeclaringthat“thegeneralsicknessofthelastyearwasexceptional，andthatthefeverswerenotofadangerousnature。“ItiswellknownthatuponourfirstoccupationoftheislandinJuly，1878，alltroops，bothEnglishandIndian，sufferedtoadegreethatwouldhaverenderedthemunfitforactiveservice。Itistruethattheactualmortalitywasnotexcessive；
butthestrengthofanarmymustbereckonedbytheEFFECTIVEforce，andnotbynumbers。Therecanbenodoubtthat，owingtoaseasondeclaredbytheinhabitantstobeexceptionallyunhealthy，andtheunfortunatenecessityforamilitaryoccupationduringtheextremeheatofJulyandAugust，thetroopsbeingoverworked，badlyfed，andunprotectedfromthesun，thenewly-acquiredislandwasstampedwithapestilentialcharacter，andCyprusbecameabyewordasafever-smittenfailure。I
shallgivemypersonalexperiences，untingedbyanyprejudice。Thenaturalfeaturesofthecountryproducedasadimpressionuponmyfirstarrivalinascenewherethedepressinginfluenceofabarrenaspectmusttoacertainextentaffectthenervoussystem；butacarefulexaminationoftheentiresurfaceoftheislandsubsequentlymodifiedmyfirstimpressions，withresultswhichthesepageswilldescribe。
TherewasnoobjectinprolongingmyvisittoDali；thetombsofancientIdaliumhadalreadybeenransackedbytheconsulsofvariousnations；
andhadIfeltdisposedtodisturbthereposeofthedead，nominallyintheinterestsofscience，butatthesametimetoturnanhonestpennybythesaleoftheirremains，Ishouldhavebeenunabletofollowtheexampleoftheburrowingantiquarianswhohadprecededme；aprohibitionhavingbeenplaceduponallsuchenterprisesbytheEnglishgovernment。
ItissupposedthatIdaliumisoneofthelargestandrichesttreasuriesofthedeadinCyprus。Forseveralcenturiesthetombshadbeenexcavatedandpillagedinthehopesofdiscoveringobjectsofvalue。Thefirstrobberswerethosewhoweresimplyinfluencedbythegoldandotherpreciousornamentswhichwereaccompanimentsofthecorpse；themoderndespoilerswereresurrectionistswhoworkedwiththeobjectofsupplyinganymuseumsthatwouldpurchasethefuneralspoil。
Itisacuriouscontradictioninourideasofpropriety，whicharemeasuredapparentlybyuncertainintervalsoftime，thatweregardasfeloniousamanwhodisintersabodyandstealsaringfromthefingersofthecorpseafewdaysafterburialinanEnglishchurchyard，butwehonourandadmireanindividualwhouponawholesalescaledigsupoldcemeteriesandscattersthebonesofancientkingsandqueens，princes，priests，andwarriors，andhavingcollectedthejewellery，arms，andobjectsofvanitythatwereburiedwiththem，neglectstheoncehonouredbones，butsellsthegoldandpotterytothehighestbidder。Sentimentismeasuredandweighedbyperiods，andasgriefismitigatedbytime，soalsoisourrespectforthedead，evenuntilwebartertheirashesforgoldasanhonourabletransaction。
ThemostimportantobjectofantiquitythathasbeenrecentlydiscoveredbyexcavationsatDaliisthestatueofSargon，kingofAssyria，707
B。C。，towhomtheCypriotekingspaidtribute。ThiswassenttotheBerlinMuseumbyMr。HamiltonLang，andisdescribedinhisinterestingworkuponCyprusduringthetermofseveralyears\'consulship。
Theruinsofancientcitiesoffernoattractiontothetravellerinthisisland，asnothingistobeseenuponthesurfaceexceptdisjointedstonesandafewfallencolumnsofthecommonestdescription。Thedestructionhasbeencomplete，andifwewishtomakediscoveries，itisnecessarytoexcavatetoaconsiderabledepth；butasallsuchexplorationsareprohibited，thesubjectremainsfruitless。GeneraldiCesnola，whoseworkupontheantiquitiesofCyprusmustremainunrivalled，describesthetombsasfromfortytofifty-fivefeetbeneaththepresentsurface，andeventhosegreatdepthshadnotsecuredthemfromdisturbance，asmanythatheopenedhadalreadybeenransackedbyformerexplorers。
Onthe7thofFebruarythethermometerateightA。M。wasonly40
degrees。Theoxenwereputintotheiryokes，andafteradiscussionconcerningthebestroutetoLefkosia，itwasagreedthatGeorgishouldbetheresponsibleguide，ashewasanativeofthecountry。
WhentravellingonhorsebackthroughthedistrictofMessariathereisnodifficultyofroads，providedyouknowthecountrythoroughly，asyoumaycanter，intheabsenceofenclosures，inanydirectionyoumayplease；buttheCyprioteshaveanawkwardhabitofleadingtheirwatercoursesstraightthroughanyroutethatmayexistforwheeledconveyances，andyousuddenlyarriveatadeepditchandhighbank，whichblockthethoroughfare。GeorgihadassuredusthatnodifficultywoulddelayusbetweenDaliandthehighroadfromLarnacatoLefkosia，whichweshouldintersectabouthalf-waybetweenthetwotermini。
Insteadofthis，aftertravellingforacoupleofmilesalongagoodhardenedtrack，wearrivedataseriesoftrencheswhicheffectuallystoppedallprogress。Eachvanhadapickaxeandshovel，thereforeweallsettoworkinrapidreliefofeachothertoleveltheobstructions，andbythishardexercisethethermometerappearedtorisequicklyfromthelowtemperatureofthemorning。Theoxenweregood，andbydintofourunitedexertionsinheavingthewheelsandpushingbehind，wedraggedthevansthroughthesoftgroundthathadfilledtheditches，andthenslowlytravelledacrossploughedfieldsandalternateplainsofahardsurfacecoveredwithabominablethistles。
Wepassedonourleftalargefarmthatexhibitedawonderfulcontrasttothegeneralbarrennessofthecountry。Thefieldsweregreenwithyoungwheatandbarley，andnumeroussakyeeahsorcattle-wheelsforraisingwatersuppliedthemeansofunfailingirrigation。IbelievethispropertybelongedtoMr。Mattei，andtherecouldbenostrongerexampleofthepowerthatshouldbedevelopedthroughoutthisislandtorenderitindependentofprecariousseasons。Itisasimplequestionofafirstoutlaythatisabsolutelynecessarytoensurethecrops。ThroughoutthebarrenplainofMessariawaterexistsinunfailingquantitywithinafewyardsoftheparchedsurface——thusatthesametimethatthecropsareperishingfromthewantofrain，therootsareactuallywithinafewfeetofthedesiredsupply。Thecattle-wheelsofCyprusareveryinferiortothesakyeeahofEgypt，butarearrangeduponasimilarprinciple，byachainofearthenwarepotsorjarsuponaropeandwheel，which，revolvingaboveadeepcistern，ascendfromthedepthbelow，anddeliverthewaterintoatroughorreservoiruponthesurface。Fromthegeneralreservoirsmallwatercoursesconductthestreamtoanyspotdesired。Thisisthemostancientsystemofartificialirrigationbymachinery，anditisbetteradaptedfortherequirementsofthiscountrythananyexpensiveEuropeaninventions。AsIshalldevoteachapterspeciallytotheall-importantquestionofirrigation，Ishallpostponefurtherremarksuponthecattle-wheel；butthefarminquestionwhichformedasolitarygreenoasisinthevastexpanseofwitheredsurfacewasasufficientexampleofthenecessity，andofthefruitfulresultofthissimpleandinexpensivemethod。Itisamerequestionofoutlay，andthegovernmentmustassistthecultivatorsbyloansforthespecialerectionofwater-wheels。Butofthismorehereafter。
AtaboutsixmilesfromDaliwestrucktheroadbetweenLarnacaandLefkosia(orNicosia)。Thenewly-establishedmail-coachwithfourhorsespassedus，withonlyonepassenger。Wemetitagainonthefollowingday，withasolitaryunit；anditappearedthatthefourhorsesonmanyoccasionshadnootherweightbehindthemthanthedriverandtheletters。Withthisinstanceofinertiabeforetheireyes，certainlunatics(orWISECONTRACTORS)suggestedthenecessityofarailwayfortwenty-eightmilestoconnectthetwocapitals！Themailhadanephemeralexistence，andafterrunningfruitlesslytoandfroforafewmonths，itwithdrewaltogether，leavinganabundantspaceinCyprusformytwovans，withouttheslightestchanceofacollisionuponthenewhighway，astherewerenoothercarriagesontheroads，exceptingthefewnativetwo-wheeledcarts。
WehaltedfivemilesfromLefkosia，whereanewstonebridgewasinprocessofconstructionandwasnearlycompleted。WehadalreadypassedalongandextremelynarrowTurkishbridgeacrosstheriveraboutfourmilesinourrear。BypacingImadethenewbridgetwenty-ninefeet，thesamewidthastheroad，andIcouldnothelpthinkingthatamuchlessexpensivecommencementwouldhavebeensufficienttomeettherequirementsofthecountry。InCyprustherainfallisgenerallyslightandtheearthistenacious，andindryweatherexceedinglyhard；ifhalfthewidthoftheroadhadbeencarefullymetalledinthefirstinstance，agreatexpensewouldhavebeensavedatatimewhentheislandwassadlyinwantofmoney；thenaturalsurfaceofthefirmsoilwouldhavebeenpreferredbyallvehiclesexceptduringrain，whentheywouldhaveadoptedthemetalledparallelway。Itiseasytocriticiseaftertheevent，andtherecanbenodoubtthatuponourfirstoccupationoftheislandamuchgreatertrafficwasexpected，andtheroadbetweenthetwocapitalswasarrangedaccordingly。Wehaltedforthenightatthenewstonebridge，which，asusualinCyprus，spannedachannelperfectlydevoidofwater。OnthefollowingmorningwemarchedtoLefkosia，andpassingtotheleftofthewalledtown，wereachedthenewly-erectedGovernmentHouse，aboutamileandahalfdistant，wherewereceivedakindandhospitablewelcomefromtheHighCommissioner，SirGarnet，andLadyWolseley。
ThepositionofthenewGovernmentHousewaswellchosen。ThecharacterofthedrearyplainofMessariaisthesamethroughout；flattable-toppedhillsofsedimentarycalcareouslimestone，aboundingwithfossilshells，representtheancientsea-bottom，whichhasbeenupheaved。Thesurfaceofthesetable-heightsishardforadepthofaboutsixfeet，forminganupperstratumofrockwhichcanbeusedforbuilding；beneaththisaremarlsandfriablecretaceousstone，whichduringrainsarewashedaway。Thecontinualprocessofunderminingbythedecayofthelowerstratahascausedperiodicaldisruptionofthehardupperstratum，whichhasfallenoffinhugeblocksandrolleddowntheroughinclinesthatformthesides。Asthewaterduringheavyrainspercolatesthroughthecrevicesoftheupperstratum，itdissolvesthesoftermaterialbeneath，andoozingthroughthesteepinclination，carrieslargequantitiesinsolutiontothelowerlevelanddepositsthisfertilisingmarlupontheplainbelow。InthismannerthelowgroundoftherichbutdrearyMessariahasbeenformedthroughthedecayanddenudationofthehigherlevels，andtheprocesswillcontinueuntilthepresenttable-toppedhillsshallbeentirelywashedaway。Thestoneoftheuppersurface，whichformsahardcrusttothefriablestratabeneath，isinmanyplacesmerelytheroofofcavernswhichhavebeenhollowedoutbytheactionofwaterasdescribed。
TheGovernmentHousewaserectedupononeoftheseflat-toppedhillsinadirectlineabout1900yardsfromthenearestportionofLefkosia。Itwasawoodenconstructionformingthreesidesofaquadrangle。Thequartersforthemilitarystaffwerewoodenhuts，andthelineofheightsthusoccupiedcouldnotfailtoattracttheeyeofasoldierasasplendidstrategicalposition，completelycommandingLefkosiaandthesurroundingcountry。Fromthispointanadmirableviewwaspresenteduponallsides。TheriverPedias(thelargestinCyprus)，whenitpossessedwater，wouldflowforabout270degreesofacirclearoundthebaseoftheposition，thesidesofthehillrisingabruptlyfromthestream。Thedryshinglybedwasabout120yardsinwidth，andalthoughdestituteofwateratthispoint，sufficientwasobtainedsomemileshigheruptherivertoirrigateaportionofthemagnificentplainwhichborderedeitherside。SirGarnetWolseleywasendeavouringtoputanewfaceonthetreelesssurface，andhadalreadyplantedseveralacresoftheEucalyptusglobulusandothervarietiesonthelowerground，whiledate-palmsoffullgrowthhadbeenconveyedbodilytothenaturalterracearoundtheGovernmentHouseandcarefullytransplantedintopits。Thischangewasaconsiderablerelieftotheeye，andthetrees，ifwellsuppliedwithwater，willinafewyearscreateagrovewhereallwasbarrenness。
Theviewfromeachportionoftheterraceisexceedinglyinteresting，asitcommandsapanoramaforadistanceofnearlythirtymiles。Onthenorthistherangeofmountains，abouttwelvemilesdistant，whichformthebackboneofCyprus，andrunfromeasttowest，attainingtheheightof3400feet。Thisisapeculiargeologicalfeatureintheisland，asitistheonlyinstanceofcompact(orjurassic)limestone。ThroughmypowerfulastronomicaltelescopeIcouldplainlydistinguisheveryrock，andtheCastleofBuffaventouponthesummitoftheperpendicularcragsaffordedaninterestingobject，althoughinvisibletothenakedeye。Thesouthandeastpresentedamiserableaspectinthebrowndesert-likeplainofMessaria，brokenbythenumerousflat-toppedhillstowhichI
havealreadyalluded。Onthewesttheimportantmountain-rangewhichincludesTroodosboundedtheviewbythesnow-cappedheightsoftheancientMountOlympus，betweenwhichseveralchainsoflowerhillsformedadarkbaseofplutonicrocks，whichcontrastedwiththepainfulglareoftheimmediateforeground。ThehighestpointsofthisrangeareTroodos，6590feet，Adelphe，5380feet，Makhera，4730feet。Thesearethemeasurementsastheyappearuponthemaps；buttherecentsurveybytheRoyalEngineershasreducedtheheightofTroodosby250feet。A
greenpatchatthefootoftheCarpasrangedenotedthepositionofKythrea，abouttwelvemilesdistanteast，wateredbytheextraordinaryspringwhichhasrendereditfamousbothinancientandmoderntimes；
andalmostatourfeet，oramileinadirectline，thefortifiedcapital，Lefkosia，presentedtheusualpicturesqueappearanceofaTurkishtown。Acombinationofdate-palms，greenorange-gardens，minarets，mosques，housesquaintintheirirregularityandcolouring，andthegrandoldVenetianCathedral，St。Sophia，toweringaboveallotherbuildings，wereenclosedwithinthehighmasonrywallsandbastions，comprisingacircuitofthreestatutemiles。
ThepositionofLefkosiahasbeenbadlychosen，asitliesintheflat，andmustalwayshavebeenexposedtoaplungingfirefromanenemypostedupontheheights。ItwasfortifiedinthetimeofConstantinetheGreat，butin1570theVenetiansdemolishedtheoldworksandconstructedthepresentelaboratefortifications。Althoughthewallsareinseveralplacescrumblingintoruins，theyarestillimposinginappearance，andpresentacleanfrontofmasonryflankedbyelevenbastions，andenteredbythreegates，thoseofBaffo，Famagousta，andKyrenia。Theoriginalditchcanbetracedinvariousplaces，butthecounterscarpandglacishavebeendestroyed；thereforethesoilhaswashedinduringtherainyseasons，andtoanunpractisedeyehasobliteratedalltracesoftheformerimportantwork。Ontheotherhand，thedisappearanceoftheglacisrenderstheheightofthewallsstillmoreimposing，astheyriseforthirtyorfortyfeetabruptlyfromthelevelbase，andatadistancemaintaintheappearanceofgoodcondition。
ItisdifficulttoimaginethereasonwhichinducedtheVenetianstoreproduceLefkosiaaftertheyhaddemolishedtheoriginalfortifications；butitisprobablethattheyhadalreadyerectedthecathedralbeforetheexpectedTurkishinvasionrenderedtheimproveddefencesnecessary。Althoughintheearlydaysofartilleryshell-firewasunknown，boththeTurksandVenetianspossessedgunsofheavycalibrefarexceedinganythatwereusedinGreatBritainuntilrecentyears。ThemarbleshotwhicharestilltobeseeninFamagoustaarethesamewhichservedinthedefenceofthatfortressin1571。Thesearenearlyeleveninchesindiameter，whileinthefortofKyreniathestoneshotarestillexisting，nineteeninchesindiameter，composedofanexceedinglyhardandheavymetamorphicrock。Thelongbronzegunswhichthrewthesmallerstoneshotoffromsixtoeleveninches，wouldcommandafarmoreextensiverangethantheintervaloftheheightswhichdominateLefkosia；andevenshouldbatteringhavebeenineffectiveatthatdistanceagainstwallsofmasonry，theplungingfirewouldhavedestroyedthetownandrenderedituntenable。
TracesarestillvisibleoftheTurkishapproacheswhenthetownwassuccessfullycarriedbystormonthe9thofSeptember，1570，afterasiegeofonlyforty-fivedays。TheshortdurationoftheattackcomparedtothelengthoftimerequiredinthesiegeofFamagousta，whichatlengthsuccumbedtofamine，andnottodirectassaults，isaproofofthefaultystrategicalpositionofthefortressofLefkosia。
MostTurkishtownsaresuppliedwithwaterbyaqueductsfromaconsiderabledistance，whichwouldnaturallybecutbyanenemyasthefirstoperation。ThewaterisbroughttoLefkosiafromthehillsatsomemiles\'distance，andisofexcellentquality；butthewellsofthetownmustbecontaminatedbysewage，asthereisnomeansofeffectivedrainageuponthedeadlevelofthetown，unlesstheoriginalditchisturnedintoapestilentialcesspool。Thefilthofcenturiesmusthavebeenimbibedbythesoil，andduringtheprocessofinfiltrationmustinsuccessiverainyseasonshavefounditswaytothewells。Incaseofinvasion，Lefkosiacouldneverhaveresistedaprolongedsiege，asintheabsenceoftheaqueductagarrisonwouldquicklyhavesuccumbedtodiseasewhendependentforawater-supplyuponthewellsalone。WhentheTurkscapturedthecitybyassault，thepopulationfarexceededthatofthepresenttime(16，000)，andthegreaterportionweremassacredduringseveraldaysofsackandpillage。SomethousandsofgirlsandboysweretransportedtoConstantinople。RichardI。ofEnglandoccupiedLefkosiawithoutresistance，afterhisvictoryoverIsaacComnenus。
AlthoughexperiencedintheillusionofTurkishtowns，IwasmorethandisappointedwhenIvisitedtheinteriorofLefkosia。ThenewChiefCommissioner，ColonelBiddulph，R。A。，C。B。，hadalreadyimprovedcertainstreets，andtheeyewasimmediatelyattractedtopointswhichboretheunmistakablestampofaBritishoccupation；butnothingcanbeeffectedinthearrangementofsuchatownwithoutanunlimitedpurseandadespoticpower。ItisalmostashopelessasLondonintheincongruityofarchitecture，andtheindividualindulgenceofindependenttaste，whichabsolutelydismaysastranger。ThebeautifulGothiccathedraloftheVenetianshasbeenconvertedintoamosquebytheconquerors，andtwoexceedinglyloftyandthinminaretshaveaddedanabsurdembellishment，resemblingtwogiganticcandlescappedbyextinguishers，asthoughthealtar-tapershadbeentakenforthemodels。TheneighbouringchurchofSt。Nicholashasbeenconvertedintoagranary。InallTurkishtownsthebazaarsarethemostinterestingportion，astheyillustratethecommercialandagriculturalindustriesofthecountry。ThoseofLefkosiaformedalabyrinthoftheusualnarrowstreets，andresembledeachothersocloselythatitwasdifficulttofindtheway。Thepreparationofleatherfromthefirstprocessoftanningisexhibitedonanextensivescale，whichdoesnotaddtothenaturalsweetnessoftheair。Nativemanufacturesforwhichthetowniscelebrated，thataremoreagreeable，maybepurchasedatamoderatepriceintheshapeofsilkstuffs；andavarietyofmule-harness，pack-saddles，andthecapaciousdoublebagsofhairandwoolthat，slungacrosstheanimal，arealmostindispensabletothetraveller。TherewereafewshopsdevotedtoEuropeanarticleswhichwerehardlyadaptedtothecountry，andwereexpensiveinaridiculousdegree。Thenarrowstreetsweremuddyfromtherecentrain，andthetemperaturewasat55degrees，buttheinhabitantsweresittingatthevariouscafesintheopenairsmokinganddrinkingtheirsteamingcoffeeasthoughinsummer。Fromnaturalpolitenesstheyinvariablyroseaswepassedby，andatoneplaceIwasimmediatelyfurnishedwithastringthatImightmeasurealargevine-stemwhichduringsummermustaffordadenseshade。Ifoundthemainstemofthisunusualspecimenwastwenty-twoinchesincircumference。
TheonlyagreeablewalkinLefkosiaisthecircuitoftheramparts，asthehighelevationadmitsoffreshairandanextensiveview。Fromthiswelookeddownuponnumerousgardenswellirrigatedbythesurpluswateroftheaqueduct，andtheremarkablyhealthyorangeandlemontreeswerecrowdedwiththeirloadsofripefruit。Therearemanygoodandroomyhousesinthetown，eachfurnishedwithaconsiderablegarden，butastheyaresurroundedwithhighwalls，itisdifficulttoformanopinionoftheiractualdimensions。ThehouseoccupiedbytheChiefCommissionerislargeandwellconstructed，thestaircaseandlandingairyandcapacious，withanentrance-hallopenattheextremeendandwellarrangedfortheburningclimateduringsummer。Allhousesarepavedwithslabsofgypsum，whichaboundinmanypartsoftheisland，andaresoldataremarkablylowprice，astheblockslaminate，andaredividedintosheetsoftherequiredthicknesswithaminimumoflabour。
TheTurkishPacha(Rifat)stillremainedatLefkosia，ashewasresponsibleforthetransferofvariousmovablepropertytoConstantinople。TheinterestingVenetiancannonofbronzethatwereutterlyvaluelessasmodernweaponshadbeenconveyedawaybothfromLefkosiaandFamagousta。Oneofthesewasadoubleoctagon，orsixteen-sided，andwouldhavebeenavaluablespecimeninthecollectionattheTowerofLondon。ManyofthecuriousoldVenetiancannonhadrecentlybeenburstintofragmentswithdynamite，tosavethetroubleofmovingtheheavygunsentire。
TherecanbelittledoubtthattheprimeobjectinselectingacentralpositionforthecapitalofCypruswasaregardforsafetyfromanysuddenattack；butuponanyothergroundsIcannotconceiveagreaterabsurdity。ThecapitalshouldbeLimasol，whichwillbecometheLiverpoolofCyprus。Lefkosiaiscompletelyoutofthecommercialroute；
itisvaluelessasamilitaryposition，anditoffersnoclimaticadvantage，but，onthecontrary，itisfrightfullyhotinthesummermonths，andissecludedfromthemoreactiveportionsoftheisland。ItIS，simplybecauseitWAS；butitshouldremainasavestigeofthepast，andnolongerrepresentthecapital。*
(ThecensusofNicosia，takenon31stJanuary，1879，representsthepopulationasfollows：——
No。ofhouses：——2，463
Populationbysex：——
Malesabove15……3，773
Malesunder15……1，900
Femalesabove14……3，718
Femalesunder14……1，806
Total……11，197
Populationbyreligion：——
English……28
GreekChurch……5，251
Catholics……121
Mohammedans……5，628
Armenians……166
Jews……3
Total……11，197)
ThereisnopositionthroughouttheplainofMessariaadaptedforapermanentgovernmentestablishmentashead-quarters。Thedepressingeffectofthathorriblelandscape，embracingtheextensiveareafromTrichomoandFamagoustatoLarnaca，Lefkosia，andMorphu，ismostdemoralising，andfewEuropeanswouldbeabletoresistthedeleteriousclimateofsummer，andthegeneralheart-sinkingthatresultsinanervousdespondencywhenthedrearyandtreelessplainiseverpresenttotheview。ThereisnoreasonwhyofficialsshouldbecondemnedtothepurgatoryofsuchastationwhenCypruspossessessuperiorpositionswherethegreatbusinessofthefuturewillbeconducted。ThenewroadalreadycompletedfromLarnacatoLefkosiamustbecarriedontoMorphu，andthusconnectthenorthandsouthextremitiesoftheplain；Kyrenia，sixteenmilesdistant，mustbeconnectedwithLefkosia；branchesmustthenbeextendedtoKythreaandtoFamagousta；andsubsequently，fromthelattertownadirectroadmustbecontinuedparallelwiththesouthcoasttoLarnaca。Suchroadsmaybeconstructedforabout350poundspermileatthelowrateoflabourinCyprus，consideringthepresenceofstonethroughoutthedistrict，andtheircompletionwillopentheentireplainofMessariatowheeledcommunicationwithfourports，tonorthandsouth。
CHAPTERIV。
THEMESSARIA。
Havingpassedaweekwithourkindhosts，SirGarnetandLadyWolseley，atGovernmentHouse，whichformedamostagreeablecontrasttothefriendlesslifethatwehadbeenleading，thevansoncemorestartedenrouteforKythrea，Famagousta，andtheCarpasdistrict。Ihadhiredagood，sure-footedponyformywifeandapowerfulmuleformyself，and，havinggiventhevansastartofseveralhours，wefollowedintheafternoon。
ThetreelessexpanseoftheMessariaproducesnothingbutcerealsandcotton；teamsofoxenwereatworkinalldirectionsploughing，andotherwisepreparingthethistle-coveredsurface，andtheatmospherewassodelusivelyclearthatKythrea，twelvemilesdistant，appearedclosetous。Upontheseboundlessflatsanobjectmaybeseenasdistinctlyasthoughuponthewater，andwesoondescriedinthefardistanceadarkspot，whichthebinocularglass，ifatsea，wouldhavepronouncedtobethesternofavesselthathadlosthermasts，keepingthesamecourseasourselves；thiswasthegipsy-van，whichshouldhavealreadyarrivedatKythrea，whereIhadexpectedtohavefoundthecamparranged，dinnercooked，andeverythingreadyforourreception。Somethinghadhappened，astheothervanwasnotinsight。
Itwasimpossibletodignifytheroutebythenameofa“road，“asitpresentedanunevensurfaceandoccasionallybranchedintoseveralindependenttracks，whichre-unitedafteraneccentriccourseofafewhundredyards；thesewerecausedbydrovesofmuleswhichinwetweatherhadendeavouredtoselectabetterlinethanthedeeply-troddenmudinthecentralroad。Fortunatelythesurfacewasnowhard，andwecanteredon，fullyexpectingsomedisastertoatleastoneofourvehicles。Uponourarrivalwefoundacrowdofpeopleyellingandshoutingtheirutmost，whiletheywereengagedincompanywithfouroxenharnessedindraggingandpushingthebluevanupanewroadwhichtheyhadscarpedoutoftheprecipitousbankofariveraboutfortyfeetdeep；thisaccountedforonlyonevanbeinginsight，astheotherwasinthedrybedoftheriver。Thesegoodpeoplehadbeenworkingforseveralhoursinmakingaroadwherenoneexisted；andassuredmethatthelargebridgeoverthePediaswasunsafeforsogreataweight，andthereforeitwasadvisabletocrossatthepresentspot。Thebanksconsistedofthealluviumofagesfreefromstones，thereforeitwaseasytocutanincline；butasmanytonsofearthhadbeenremoved，theoperationhadrequiredmuchlabour，andmanyhandshadcollectedfromtheadjacentvillagesuponseeingthedilemma。
Thebluevanwasinthemiddleofthecrowd；theoxenansweredtotheinspiritingshouts，andmoreespeciallytotheceaselesspricksofthedrivingsticks，andpresentlyitwasdraggedsafelytotheleveloftheoppositebank。Afewalterationsinthenewroadwerenecessaryforthelargergipsy-van，andtakingthedrag-shoeoffthebluevan，wewerethusenabledtosecureboththehind-wheelsforthesteepdescent。Bycarefulmanagement，afteroneortwonarrowescapesfromcapsising，wesucceededinlandingtheNoah\'sArksafelybyitsfellow，amidstthecheersofthegood-naturedcrowd。
Thedelayhadbeengreat，andtheeveningwasdrawingnear：wewereaboutsevenmilesfromtheupperportionofKythrea，wherewehadproposedtocamp，andtheroutewaspartlyacrosscountry，toavoidlayersofnaturalrockwhichinsuccessiveridgesmadeitimpossibleforthevanstokeepthetrack。Severaldeepwatercoursesintervened，whichrequiredthespadeandpickaxe，anditwasquitedarkwhenwewereobligedtohaltaboutamilefromKythrea。
OnthefollowingmorningMr。Kitchener，LieutenantoftheRoyalEngineers，calledatourcamp，andwaskindenoughtopilotustothecelebratedspringsaboutthreemilesabovethevillage。Thisableandenergeticofficerwasengaged，togetherwithMr。Hipperslyofthesamecorps，inmakingthetrigonometricalsurveyoftheisland，andtheywerequarteredinacomfortablehouseontheoutskirtsofthetown。Withthisexcellentguide，whocouldexplaineveryinchofthesurroundingcountry，westarteduponamostinterestingride。Theentireneighbourhoodwasgreenwithabundantcropsofcereals，someofwhichatthisearlyseasonwereeighteenincheshigh。Theeffectofirrigationcouldbetracedforseveralmilesintotheplainandalongthebaseofthemountainrange，untilbydegreesthegreenbecamemorefaint，andgraduallybutsurelymergedintothedeadbrownwhichdenotedbarrenness，wherethewater-powerwasexpendedbyabsorption。
ItwasimpossibletoformanyideaoftheextentofKythreafromtheoutsideview。Asuccessionoflargevillageswithfieldshighlycultivatedcoveredthesurfaceatthebaseofthemountains，butthetrueKythreawaspartiallyconcealedbythecuriousravinethroughwhichthewaterofthespringsisconductedbyaqueductsuntilitreachesthelowerground。Foradistanceofthreemilesthisravineisoccupiedbyhousesandgardens，allofwhicharesuppliedbythestream，whichturnsthirty-twowater-millsinitscourse。Thewater-wheelsinCyprusarehorizontalturbines，andIhaveonlymetwithoneover-shotwheelintheisland；thisisontheestateofM。MatteiatKuklia。
Therangeofmountainsexactlyabovethevillageexhibitsapeculiarexampleoftheeffectofwater-washforabouttwohundredfeetfromthebase。FromtheheightsatGovernmentHouse，twelvemilesdistant，Ihadobservedthroughthetelescopeacurioussuccessionofconicalheapsresemblingvolcanicmoundsofhardenedmud；theseroseoneabovetheotheralongthebaseofthehillslikeminiaturemountain-ranges。EvenwhennearKythreaIcouldnotunderstandtheformation，untilwefoundourselvesridingthroughthesteepravinewhichholdsthewatercourseandascendingbyanarrowpathamongthecountlesshillsthatIhavedescribed。Bothsidesofthegorge，andalsothedeepbottom，areoccupiedbyhouseswithfruitfulgardens，richinmulberry，orange，lemon，apricots，olives，forminggrovesoftreesthatinsummermustbedelightful。Sometimesafterclamberingupsteepandstonypathswhichhadoriginallybeenpavedweenteredintovillages，theroofsofthehousesBELOWusuponourleft，andthedoorsofothersuponourright，soclosetothenarrowpathasscarcelytoadmitthepassageofaloadedmule。Thewaterrushedalongthebottominarapidstream，plungingfromtheaditbelowoneturbinetoatemporaryfreedominanaturalchannel，fromwhichitwasquicklycapturedandledintoanaqueductofmasonrytoanothermillatalowerlevel。AlltheinhabitantshadturnedouttoseeanEnglishlady，andtheusualwelcomewasexhibitedbysprinklinguswithroseandorange-flowerwateraswepassed；theomnipresentdogsyelledandbarkedwiththeirusualthreateningdemonstrationsattheheelsofouranimals，andsomefromthelowroofsofthehouseswereunpleasantlyclosetoourheads。Wewerenowamongtheconicalmounds，alongthesteepsidesofwhichapathofabouttwelveincheswidthappearedtoinvitedestruction，astheloosecrumblingmaterialrolleddownthedeepinclinebeneaththehoofsofthesure-footedhorsesandmules。Thesecreatureshadadisagreeablehabitofchoosingtheextremeedgeofthenarrowledge，insteadofhuggingthesaferside；andalthoughnogreatprecipiceexisted，thefallofthirtyfeetintotherockystreambelowwouldhavebeenquiteaseffectualasagreaterdepthinbreakingnecksandlimbs。Weagainenteredavillage，wherealargeplane-treeformedthecentreofasmallopenspace，facedoneithersidebyacafe；thesituationbeingattractiveduringsummerfromthedenseshadeaffordedbythespreadingbranches。Thereweremanypeoplesittingintheopenshed，whoasusualroseandmadetheirsalutationsaswepassed。Thepathbecameworseasweproceeded，andweatlengthemergedfromthelongstringofcontractedvillagesandskirtedtheprecipitoussidesoftheravine，whichformedoneoftheinnumerablegorgesbetweentheconicalmoundsofmarlsandalluviumthathadbeenwashedfromahigherlevelandwornintoheapsbytheactionofrainupontheunstablesurface。
Aboutamilebeyondallvillagesweskirtedthestreamalongasteepbank，fromwhichpointwelookeddownupontheroofsofhousesmorethanahundredfeetbelow，andweatlengthhaltedanddismountedatarockyterminationofthegorge，fromwhenceissuedsuddenlythecelebratedspringofKythrea。
Themountainsroseabruptlyuponeitherside，andadryravineabovetherocksuponwhichwestoodexhibitedthenaturalchannelbywhichinheavyrainsthesurface-waterwouldbeconductedtothelowerstream-bed。Arougharchofmasonryandatunnelintherockforaboutfortyfeetformedtheembouchure，fromwhichthewaterissuedintoacarefullyconstructedstoneaqueduct，whichleddirectlytothefirstmilloftheKythreaseries，aboutahundredandtwentyyardsdistant。
Thetemperaturewasconsiderablywarmerthantheair，butIhadnothermometertomarkthedifference。
Theaqueductwouldhavecarriedatleastone-thirdmorethanthepresentvolume，whichwasabouttwenty-sixinchesdeep，andthreefeetinwidth。
Thewaterwasbeautifullyclearandthecurrentrapid，butIhadnomeansofmeasuringthevelocity。
Thestone-workoftheaqueduct，alwaysmoistfromthepercolation，mustformacharmingexhibitionofmaidenhairfernsduringsummer-time，asthecreviceswerealloccupiedbyplants，whoseleaves，evenatthisseason(February)，wereseveralinchesinlength。
Westrolledupthedryravineabovethespring，andascendedthehilltoanextensiveplateau，uponwhichgrewtwoorthreecaroub-trees；herewasasuddenchange；thesoilwasred，andweenteredthecompactgreylimestone(jurassic)whichformstheCarpasrange。Ontheextremevergeoftheplateauofredsoilwehadanadmirableexampleoftheformationoftheconicalmoundsofearth，twoorthreeofwhichalreadyexisted，whileotherswereinprocessofdevelopmentfromthemelting-awayofthesoilduringheavyrains。Asthesurfacedissolvedundertheactionofrainfall，itflouteddownthesteepinclinations，untilabasewasformed，attheexpenseoftheupperarea；bydegreesgullieswerecreatedintherear，andthesewouldrapidlybecomedeeperundertheactionofrunningwater，untiltheyreachedthelowerlevelofthebase。
Acirclethusformed，anapexwouldbethenaturalresultofthedenudationanddecayoftheuppersurfacewhichwouldproduceacone。A
suddenshowercompelledustotakerefugebeneathacaroub-treewhosedensefoliagesavedusfromathoroughsoaking。Thegroundhavingbecomeslippery，wereturneduponournarrowandsoapyroutewithsomecaution，butthecarefulanimalswhowerewellaccustomedtothesedangerouspathscarriedussafelytoourcamp。
Itisextraordinarythatthewater-powerofCyprushasoflateyearsbeensoneglectedbytheauthorities，astheislandmustfromancienttimeshavemainlydependeduponitsspringsintheabsenceofdependableseasons。Kythreaisanexampleoftheimportancethatwasattachedtoastreamofrunningwater，asthetownwasestablishedbytheAthenians，andinformeragesanaqueductofmasonryextendedfortwenty-fivemilestoSalamis；intheneighbourhoodofwhichruinsoftheoldworkarestillexisting。IftheseasonsofCyprushaveundergoneachangesincetheforestshavebeendestroyed，Icanseenoreasonfortheinnumerablevestigesofancientwater-worksthroughoutthecountry。Whereveranimportantspringexisted，therewasasettlementofcorrespondingextentandvalue，whichsuggeststhattherainfallwaseventhenasuncertainasatthepresentday。Everyspringbecameacentreofattraction。TheruinsoftheancientKythreahavebeenpartiallyexcavatedbytheindefatigableGeneraldiCesnola，butwithunimportantresults，asthegroundisunderartificialirrigation，andisinthehighestcultivation，thereforeitcannotbedisturbed。
ThechiefindustryofmoderntimeswhichaddstotheimportanceofKythrea，istheproductionofsilk，fromthegreatabundanceofmulberry-treeswhichsupplythenecessaryfoodforthesilkworms；butithassufferedtoaconsiderabledegree，incommonwithmostsilk-growingdistrictsinCyprus，bythewantofforesightoftheproducers；thesepeoplehavewithinthelastfewyearssoldtheseedinsuchextravagantquantitiestothetradersofBeyroutastoleavetheislandwithashortsupply。Theresultofthissacrificeforthesakeofreadymoneyisaseriousreductioninthegeneralproduce，andinmanyportionsoftheislandthemulberry-treesareflourishingwithoutasilkwormtofeeduponthem。Thethirty-twoflour-millsofKythreaareworkedbyafallof400feetbetweenthehead-waterofthespringtothebaseofthelowestmillatthefootofthemountains。Itappearedtomethatmuchwateriswastedbyanabsenceofscientificcontrol。Aseriesofreservoirswouldstoretheexcessduringthehourswhenthemillsareidle(similartothemill-pondsinEngland)，butasthereisnomunicipallawuponthisimportantsubject，theall-importantstreamismuchneglected。Thereisageneraldemandforgrinding-powerthroughoutCyprus；thecornisbroughtfromgreatdistancestothemillsofKythreaataconsiderableexpenseoftransport；IhavemetdrovesofmulesladenwithwheatandbarleyontheirwayfromLarnaca，towhichdistantspottheywouldagainreturnwhentheirloadsshouldhavebeenreducedtoflour。Inthefaceofthisdifficultyageneralwantofenergyandofthenecessarycapitalisexhibitedbythetotalneglectofwind-power，inacountrywhereasteadybreezeistherule，withfewexceptions。ThroughoutthegreatplainofMessariawindmillswouldbeinvaluable，bothforgrindingpurposesandforraisingwater；nothingwouldbemoresimplethanthecombinationofthewind-vanewiththecattle-pump；butthisgreatandalmostomnipresentpowerisabsolutelyignored。
Onourreturntocampintheevening，Iresolvedtohaveaquietdaywithmydogsonthefollowingmorning，whenIcouldstrollatmyleisureoverthemountains，andenjoymyselfthoroughlyaccordingtomyowntastes，sometimesobtainingashotatgame，andobservingeveryobjectinnature。
Itwas15thFebruary，andwithanativeguideandinterpreterwhospokeArabic，whichwasmymediumofdialogue，Istartedtocrossthemountain-rangeupontheeastofthewell-knownfive-knuckled-topnamed“Pentadactylon。“AttheexpenseofrepetitionIcannothelpextractingfrommydiarytheexactwordsofdescriptionroughfromthefirstimpulse：“Thebaseofthisrangeisanextraordinaryexampleoftheactionofrainfallinmeltingandwashingdownintoconicalmoundsseveralhundredfeethigh，whatwasoriginallyahighlevelofcontinuousbutalternatingstrataofmarlsandalluviumthathaddescendedfromthehighermountains。Thesevastmassesareinachaoticconfusionofseparateheaps，whichatadistanceresemblevolcaniccones。Werodeupprecipitouspathsedgingupondeepchasmsbetweentheseconicalhills，andemergeduponmetamorphousrocksandshalemingledincuriousirregularity。Thestrataofshalewereinsomeinstancesnearlyvertical，provingthedisturbancethathadbeenoccasionedbyasubsequentupheaval。About200feetabovethisformationweentereduponthedarkgreyjurassiclimestone，andthesoilbecamearichredlikethatofSouthDevon。Therockscenerywasveryimposingasweincreasedouraltitudeandarriveduponplateauxofconsiderableextent。Therecanbenodoubtthatthesenaturalterrace-likesurfacesandvarioushollowsaccumulatetherainfallofagreatarea，andthatsomevastsubterraneancavernsinthelimestoneformnaturalreservoirs，whichsupplythecelebratedspringsofKythreathroughouttheyear。“
Ibelievethesefewwordscontaintherealsecretofthesprings，whichhavebeen，andstillare，consideredtohaveamysteriousorigin。SomepeopleindulgeinthetheorythatthewaterisforcedbyhydraulicpressureatthesuperioraltitudeofCaramaniainAsiaMinor，andpassingbyasubterraneanconduitfarbeneaththebottomoftheinterveningchannel，itascendsatthepeculiarrock-mouthofKythrea。
Thisissimplenonsense，andcanonlybeacceptedbythosewhoadoretheunreal，insteadoftheguide，“common-sense。“TheactualvolumeoftheoutflowatKythreahasneverbeencalculated，althoughtheproblemismostsimple；butacursoryexaminationissufficienttoexplaintheoriginofthesupplywhichacertainsuperficialmountainareacollectsandstoresduringtherainyseasons：toyieldgraduallythroughsomesmallapertureorleakinagrandsubterraneanreservoir。
Inallcountrieswherewaterisscarce，unfailingspringsareobjectsofveneration，andareclothednotonlywithundyingverdure，butwithacontinuousgrowthoflegends：fromthedaywhenMosessmotetherockinthewilderness，andthestreamgushedforthtothethirstyIsraelites，tothepresenthour，water，whichisman\'sfirstnecessity，willindrought-smittencountriesbehailedwithmorethanusualreverence。ThedevoutMussulmansinksawellanderectsafountainforthepublicgood，andhisfriendsburyhisbodyintheneighbourhoodofhislastact。
“Rest，wearypilgrim，restandprayForthekindsoulofSybilGrey，WhobuiltthisCrossandWell。“
ChristianandMahommedan，andallcreedsandraces，menandanimals，yieldunanimouslytothegreatwant，whichinathirstylandalonewillbringthelionandthelambtodrinkinthesamestream。Ihavemyselfseeninmoonlight，animalsofvariousandconflictingnaturesrevellingintherestofnature\'sarmistice，drinkingincrowdsatthesolitarypool；theonlysourceofwaterinthedesert。
TheCypriotesintheirnaturalloveofthemarvellousinsistuponthemysteryattachedtotheKythreasprings，buttheyattachnoimportancetotheextensivesubterraneanwater-storesoftheMessariaplain，simplybecausetheydonotseeitissuefromtheground：stillthefactisthere，thewaterinvastquantitiesalwaysexists，andwereittappedatahigherlevel，itwouldflow(asitactuallydoesincertainplaces)，andexhibitthesameprincipleuponamuchlargerscalethantheromanticandpicturesquemountainspringsofKythrea。
Asweincreasedouraltitudethesceneryimprovedininterest：wewerenolongerinbarrenmoundsofwater-washeddebris，buttherichsoilamongthedarkgreyrocksgavebirthtonumerousshrubs，includingtheevergreenmastic，arbutus，andthedwarfcypress。Althoughtheroutewasonlymarkedbythecontinualtracksofthelime-burner\'smules，oursturdyanimalsmountedthesteeprockyascentswithcomparativeease，andskirtedthedeepwater-wornravineswithoutmissingafootstep。
Heapsofroughcrumblingrocksresemblingcairnsattractedmyattentiononallsides；theseweretherudelime-kilns，andatanelevationofaboutathousandfeetaboveKythreawecameuponthefamiliesoflime-burnerswhoforseveralgenerationshaveresidedintheseheights，eitherincaves，orrudehuts，accordingtotheconditionsofthelocality。Womenandgirlswerehardatworkwithstronggrubbing-axes，diggingouttherootsofbrushwoodfromamongtherocksandmakingthemintofaggots，asfuelforburningthegreylimestone。Theworkwasmostlaborious，andIwasstruckbythegreatthicknessoftherootsofcomparativelysmallshrubs。Uponregardingthesurface，nobushesappearedsufficientlysubstantialfortheuseoffuel，butinfactatheyhadforcenturiesbeencutandhackedtoadegreethatreducedthemsuperficiallytomeresaplings，whiletheancientrootshadincreasedinsize。Thegreatpilesoflimestonewereonlypartiallyreducedtolimebytheroughmethodandthescantfuelemployed，butIadmiredtheindustryofthesepoorpeople，whowereworkingliketheIsraelitesforPharaoh，“makingbrickswithoutstraw。“Someofthegirlswerepretty，butinfiguretheyweremererag-dollsinlocomotion。
Thelimewasconveyedbydonkeystothelowercountry，andwepresentlyarrivedatasnow-whiteheaplyinginthecentreofthepath；——itwasexplained，that，duringtheheavyshowerofyesterday，adonkeywascarryinghisusualburthenofquick-lime，whenhewasovertakenbytherain，whichslakedtheload，anditwasnecessarytoimmediatelyabandonit，tosavetheanimalfromburning。
Afteranhourandahalf\'sscrambleweturnedtotherightbeneathaperpendicularcliffofexquisitecolouringonourleft，combiningthebrightredwhichdenotedthepresenceofiron，withthedarkpurpleandthesilverygreyoftheJuralimestone。Onourrightwasadeepandprecipitousravine，sparselycoveredwithevergreenshrubs。Inthisspot，metamorphicrockslayinroughandhugeblocksofvariousshapesandcolours，andwhileexaminingtheseIwasstruckbythepresenceoftherareandpeculiargreenmarbleknownasverdeantica。IntheimmediateneighbourhoodIdiscoveredgreatmassesofthesamestone，butminusthegreenbase，exhibitingatthesametimethecharacteristicsofirregularmosaicintheangularfragmentsofwhite，black，andvariouscolouredpieceswhichappearedtobeartificiallyinlaid。Thesemarbles，especiallythetrueverdeantica，wouldbeexceedinglyvaluableifcutintoslabsandexported，andtherewouldbelittledifficultyinconstructingafeasiblerouteforcamels，whichwouldconveywitheaselargeslabssecuredinframesslunguponeitherside。
Afewyardsabovethisspotwearrivedatasolitarycypress-tree，whichindensityoffoliageresembledayew-treeinanEnglishchurchyard。
Closetothisrareobjectwasanapertureintherocksupontherighthand；afewroughly-hewnstepsenabledustodescendintoanarrowcave，wherewaterdrippedfromtheroof，andformedafeeblestream，whichwasledthroughcrevicestoacisternsomeyardsbelow。Thiscisternwaswithinafewfeetofthecypress-tree，andaccountedforitssuperiorgrowth，astherootshadbeendulynourished。AboutahundredfeetabovethisspotweretheruinsofanancientGreekchurch，thathadnodoubtbeenassociatedwiththeholydrippingfountain，andthesolitarytreehadbeensparedfromtheruthlessaxesofthelime-burnersthroughsomesuperstitionconnectedwiththespot。Onarrivalatthecrumblingruinsofthechurch，wedismountedfromouranimals，andputthemintherudestableofthelime-burnerswhohadlocatedthemselvesamongthewallsoftheoncereligiousbuildings，whichtheyhadconvertedintohuts。
Animalscouldgonofarther；wethereforecontinuedtheascentonfoot，tothedelightofmydogs，whoseemedtothinkitlookedmorelikebusiness。
Therewasalargegrowthoftheusualshrubsarbutus，mastic，anddwarf-cypress，andthesurfaceofthegroundwassocompletelycoveredwithmassesofrockthatwalkingwasmostdifficult。Notwithstandingtheapparentbarrennessofthelocality，wearrivedatatolerablyevensurfaceofrichbrownsoilinahollowneartheshoulderofthemountain；thishadrecentlybeenclearedforcultivationbythelime-burnerstotheextentofabouttwoacres，andIremarkedthatbothpine-treesandcypressesasthickasaman\'sthighhadrecentlybeenfelledandburntinspiteofthegovernmentstringentregulations。Intheseout-of-the-waylocalitiesthenativescanlaughatlawsandspecialenactments。
Uponarrivalatthecrestofthemountain，whichformedashoulderforapeakofsilveryrocks，about100feetaboveme，myaneroidshowed1830
feetaboveKythrea。Fromthispointtheviewwassuperb，andextendednorthandsouthfromseatosea。Therewasanextraordinarycontrastuponthesetwodivisionsformedbythewall-likeCarpasrangeuponwhichwestood：tothesouthallwasbrownanddesolateexceptingthefewmilesofgreenbelongingtoKythreabeneathourfeet。ThetownofLefkosiastoodoutinboldrelief，thecathedralandeventhefortresswallsaffordingdistinctoutlinesintheclearatmosphere；thesalt-lakesofLarnacashowedplainlyinthedistance，backedbythebluesea，andthemountainofSantaCrocewiththemonasteryuponitssummitwasawell-knownlandmark。Thissideofthemountainrangewasnotinviting，andifithadbeenexhibitedbeforetheoccupationtherecanbelittledoubtofanunfavourableimpression。Weturned“right-about-face“tothenorth。Thiswasindeedawonderfulchangeofaspect！Welookeddownfromthepicturesqueandprecipitouswallofmountainswhichstretchedfarawaytotheeastandwest；thesideswerecoveredwithevergreens，throughwhichtheboldcragsprotrudedinruggedpoints；thedarkindenturesuponthesteepslopesmarkeddeepravinesinwhichstreamsofwaternowrippled，whileallonthesouthwerestonyandexhausted。ThestripoflandbetweentheseaandthenorthernbaseoftheCarpasrangewashardlythreemileswide；thiswascoveredwithwell-roundedcaroub-trees，whosedarkgreenfoliagegavearichappearancetotheshore，brokenbycountlessrockybaysandcoves，filledwiththecobaltwatersoftheMediterranean。Thiswasalovelyscene；IcouldnotbelievethatIwasinCyprus——thatwhitey-brown-paper-coloured，desert，smitten，God-forsakenisle！Upontheleft，abouteightmilesdistant，laythetownandimportantportofKyrenia，withanapparentlyverylittleharbour，thehousessurroundedbygardens，andornamentedbydate-palmsbackedbyaperfectforestofcaroub-treeswhichextendedforsomemiles。Ontheextremesummitofthecragsuponourleft，overlookingKyreniaandforminganunmistakablelandmarkforallsailors，wasthecastleofBuffavento，cuttingthebluesky-line3240feetabovethesea。Exactlyopposite，ataboutsixtymilesdistance，werethesnow-cappedmountainsofCaramania，whichinthetransparentatmosphereseemedtobewithinaday\'slongmarch。Far，farawayalongthenorth-easternshore，andalsotowardsthewest，allwaslovely：IcouldonlyregretthatallvesselsandstrangersmustarriveintheunfortunateportsoftheMessaria，insteadofgainingsuchfavourablefirstimpressionsaswouldbeinducedbythelovelypictureofCyprusfromthenorth。
WhileIhadbeenadmiringtheview，mydogshadbeenhuntingthedensebushestoverylittlepurpose，andalthoughwescrambledformorethantwohoursoverthemountain，weonlymovedtenortwelvered-leggedpartridges，whichroseupwardsofahundredyardsinfrontofthegun；
itwasquiteimpossibletoobtainashot。Withanemptybag，butwithanewimpressionofthecountrysincemyviewofthelandscapeinthenorth，Iturnedhomewards，andreachedcamplateintheafternoon，myspanielshavingnodoubtalowopinionofCyprussport，andoftheunfairadvantagestakenbytheever-runningred-leggedpartridges。
On16thFebruaryapainfulconvictionwasestablishedthatCypruswasunfittedforwheeledcarriagesandsprings。Althoughtheplainappearedflatandwithoutnaturalobstacles，thegroundhadbeencompletelytraversedbydeeptrenchesforthepurposeofcheckingandconductingsurfacewatertothefieldsintheeventofaheavyshower。OurcourseshouldhavebeendirectlyacrosstheplaintointersecttheroadfromLefkosiatoFamagousta，butaglanceattheinterveningcountryshowedtheimpossibilityofmovingthevansthroughthemilesofgreencropswhichwerenourishedbyinnumerablewatercourses，eachofwhichmustbelevelledbeforewecouldadvance。ItwasthereforenecessarytoretraceourstepstowithinamileandahalfofLefkosia，tothepointwherethemainroutebranchedtoFamagousta。Thiswasagreatwasteoftime，buttherewasnootherwayofavoidingthedifficulty。Accordinglywestarted，andafterafewmileswecutacrosscountrytothehighroad，whilethevansslowlycrawledalongtheunevenwayuntiltheyreachedtheturning-point。Wehaltedataverydesolatespot，wheresheepwerehousedinlargenumbers。Severalspaciouspensweresurroundedwiththorns，remindingmeofthecattlezareebasofAfrica，andasmallflat-toppedbuilding，builtofstoneandmud，formedtheusualaccommodationformanandbeast。Awellofclearbutbrackishwatersuppliedthisrudeestablishment，whichwassurroundedbyaboundlessextentofundulatingground，moreorlesscultivatedwithcereals，which，althoughonlyafewinchesabovethesurface，lookedweakandperishing。
Thevansdidnotarriveuntillate；inthemeanwhilewehadsatoutsidethebuildinginthecoldair，fearingtoventurebeneaththeroof，owingtotheswarmsoffleaswhicharesuretobe“athome“inallthemiserabledwellingsofthisisland。Atlengththegipsy-van，whichhadbeeninsightforafullhour，drewupontheflatsurfaceinfrontoftheshepherd\'shut，andrealcomfortwasatonceathand。Althoughthespacewithinwaslimited，thefurniturewassocarefullyarrangedthatwehadplentyofroomtomoveabout。Thefall-slabtablewasusuallydown，andwasonlyrequiredforwriting；thechestofdrawerswasAmericanwalnut：agoodsolidandwell-seasonedwood，whichdidnotprovokethetemperlikeEnglishfurniturebythedrawersstickingwhenintheactofopening，andleavingyouinahopelesspositionwithadetachedhandleineitherhand。ThisgoodAmericanchestwasonlythreefeettwoincheshigh，thereforeitformedaconvenienttoilette-tablebeneathawindow，which，curtainedwithmuslinandcrimsoncloth，hadanexceedinglysnugappearance；andacushionedseatuponeithersideuponthelidofalockercombinedcomfortwithconvenience。Wehadatinylittlemovablecamp-tablethatcouldbeadjustedintwominutes，andwoulddinetwopersons，providedthatnocarvingwasperformed，andthatthedisheswerehandedround。Thebedwasathwart-shipatthefarendbeneaththestern-window，butatsuchaheightfromthefloorthatseveralbroadshelvesbeneathcontainedgun-cases，ammunition，clothes，boots，tinsofpreservedprovisions，andinfacteverythingthat，althoughnecessary，wastobekeptoutofsight。Theonlymistakeinthearrangementswasaverylargeandgorgeousopen-brass-workEgyptianlantern，withglassofvariouscoloursandoutlandishpatternsinArabesque。Intheeveningweformedanirregularlight-house，astwoordinarycarriage-lampswerefixedaboveandoneithersidetheentrancedoor，whilethegorgeousmany-colouredlanternswungfromtheroofinside，andflashedred，green，andyellowsignalsinwildconfusion。I
knewthispieceoffinerywouldnotlastlong，asitwouldinsistuponrunningagainsteverybody\'shead，itslargesizebringingitintoconstantcollision；butitlookedwell，andornamentedthevan。Asitburntseveralcandlesthelanternbecamehot，whichsomewhatwarmedthecabin，andwasawelcomeincreaseoftemperature，foralthoughthefloorwasprotectedbyoil-cloth，uponwhichweredoublelayersofScinderugs，theextremethinnessofthewallsmadeitunpleasantlycoldwiththethermometeroutsideat40degrees。Theservantsweresavedanimmenseamountoftroublebythepresenceofthegipsy-van，whichatthetimetheyhardlyappreciated；theyhadnotent-pitchinguponthehalt，neitherunpackingofboxes，norarrangingofbeds，noranyoftheusualworkconnectedwithadailycamp。Itisimpossiblefortheinexperiencedtoappreciatethecomfortofsuchavehiclewheretheroadsarepracticable，especiallyinbadweather，whenyouareperfectlycertainthatyourhomeisweather-proofandyourbeddry。Thosewhohaveexperiencedthemiseryofahaltinpouringrain，wheneverybodyandeverythinghasbeensoddentothebone，whenthegroundisslushthatwillnotholdatent-peg；thenightdark；thefuelwillnotburn；thematchesexpendthemselvesinvainphosphoricflashes，butwillnotignite；thewaterthathasrundownyourneckhasformedreservoirswithinyourboots；theservantsarereducedtotheinactivityofsponges；and——thetentsMUSTbepitched。Theheavysoakedcanvasthatcanhardlyflapinthestrongwindisatlengthspreadoverthecoldsoftground；thecamp-beds，thoughwetastripe，MUSTbearranged；anddowngotheironlegs，sinkingtoanunknowndepthintothesoddensoil！
Oh，misery，misery！happilyunknowntothosewhostayathome。Allthismaybeavoidedinacountrywherepracticableroutesexistbytravellingwithagipsy-van。Ofcourseyoudonotpersonallytravelwithinyourvan：itsimplyformsamovablehomethataccompaniesyouuponthemarch，andisalwaystherewhenrequired，whileyourideindependentlyuponyouranimal。Weliveandlearn：andIhavefromexperiencemodifiedmyideasofagipsy-van；foraroadlesscountrysuchasCypruspracticallyis——IshouldhaveNOSPRINGS。Ifyouareobligedtotravelbodilywithinyourvehicle，therecanbenodoubtthatspringsrelievethespine，andvariousindescribableportionsofyouranatomy；butifyoursimple“butuponwheels“istobedraggedalong，over，andthroughallkindsofobstacles，therecanbenousewhateverinsprings，whichbytheirelasticityallowyourvehicletoswayfromsidetoside，andtoseriouslythreatenthecentreofgravity，wheninadangerousplace，byoscillation。Thecap-waggonofSouthAfricawillgoanywhere。Thetwo-wheeledcartofCyprusisawonderfullysimpleaffairthatmaybedraggedupordownthesideofamountainbyacoupleofoxen；thehighwheelsandlightbutstrongbodysurmountingallobstacles；thesecartsdonotcarrymorethantwelveorfourteenhundredweight，butinanexpeditionIshouldmuchpreferthemtotheheavywaggonsofSouthAfrica，which，withthreethousandpounds，requiretenortwelveoxen。
Theheavierweightinadifficultyofsoftground，orincrossingariver，wouldbeserious，butifthevehiclesarenumerous，andtheweightdistributedaccordingly，itstandstosensethatanenormousadvantageissecuredbythepresenceoftenoxeninfivelightcarts，allofwhichcanbeappliedtodragasinglecartoutofaseriousdilemma，insteadofremaininghopelesslyfixedinsoftmud，anchoredbyaweightofatonandahalf，asinthecaseofanAfricanbaggage-waggon。Highandbroadwheelsarethefirstnecessity，withacompoundaxleofwoodandiron，theunequalelasticityofwhichrelievestheshock。
IinvariablyfoundthatduringthedayIhatedmyvan，andintheeveningIblessedit。Itcertainlydelayedusonthemarch，andaswerodesomemilesinadvancewenotedtheobstaclesthatwouldcauseastoppage，andgenerallyhaltedtoassistwhenthe“tortoise“shouldarrive。Allthiswasofcourseannoyinginacountrywhereahorsewouldhavecanteredcheerilyalongandhaveaccomplishedfortymilesaday；
but，ontheotherhand，thevanwasneverintendedforgrandevitesse；
neitherisexpresstravellingthepropermethodofobtaininganaccurateknowledgeofanewcountry。Thuswecrawledalong，makingtwelveorthirteenmilesperdiemthroughamostuninterestingcountry，theusualsceneoftreelesswaste，butdottedoverwithextensivevillagesofmud-builthouses，andtheinevitablewhitearched-roofGreekchurches。
Theonlyincidentsthatoccurredinthislandofapathywereoccasionedbyourguide，whogenerallylosthisway，andspentsomehoursinfindingthevansatthehalting-placeintheevening；thiswasnotimprovingtothetemper，andofcourseIlaidtheblameuponCyprusgenerally，andabusedtheislandalmosttothesuperlativedegreeadoptedbythe“newspapercorrespondents。“
