Ifeltinclinedtoburymypistolsuponmyfirstarrival，andtoinscribe“Restinpeace“uponthetombstone。ItwouldbejustasabsurdtoattendchurchinLondonwithrevolversinyourbeltastoappearwithsuchaweaponinanypartofCyprus。Minewerecarefullyconcealedinsomemysteriouscornerofthegipsy-van；wheretheynowliehidden。
WehadbeentwodaysatCapeSt。Andrea，anditwasnecessarytoright-about-face，aswecouldgonofarther。ThemonkproposedtoguideustoRizo-Carpas，thecapitaloftheCarpasdistrict；thereforeon14thMarchwestarted。
Thisrideoffourteenmileswasthemostinterestingwehadmadesinceourarrivalintheisland。Afterreturninguponouroldrouteforaboutninemiles，westruckofftotheright(north)andascendedasteepgorgebetweenprecipitouswoodedheights，wherethelightgreenfoliageandtheexceedinglybrightredstemsofnumerousarbutuscontrastedwiththedensemassesofdarkgreenswhichentirelyclothedthesurface。Uponarrival，about600feetabovetheseaweobtainedasplendidview，asatable-toppedhillofnearlyequalheight，withtheusualsteepcliff-likesidesallcoveredwithverdure，stoodprominentlyintheforeground，andthedeepvalleysuponeitherside，aboundinginrichcaroub-treesandolives，leddirectlytothesea，aboutsixmilesdistantandfarbelow。Wenowcrossedthewatershed，andtheviewincreasedinbeautyasitembracedacompletepanorama，withtheseauponthreesides，tothenorth，south，andeast，withthemountainsofAsiaMinorinthefardistance。
WearrivedatRizo-Carpas，whichissituatedinagently-slopingvaleabout450feetabovethesea-level，butsurroundeduponallsidesbysuperiorheights，fromwhichthecoastofCaramaniaisdistinctlyvisibleduringclearweather。Thevalleyandslopesarehighlycultivatedwithcereals，andplantationsofmulberry-treesforthesupportofsilkworms；numerouscaroub-treesthroughoutthedistrictgiveanagreeableandprosperousappearance。Althoughthereisnoactualtown，nativedwellingsaredottedoverthefaceofthecountryforsomemiles，ornamentedbythreechurches，whichpresentanairofcivilisationandprosperity。Theinhabitantswere，asusual，verypolite，andasLadyBakerandmyselfweresittinguponarugbeneathatreewhichwehadselectedfortheevening\'shalt，andwaitingforthearrivalofourcamels，acrowdofwomenandchildrenarrivedwiththeugliestandmostwitch-likeoldhagthatIhaveeverseen。Thisoldcreaturehadbroughtfireanddriedolive-leavesinabrokenpot，withwhichsheimmediatelyfumigatedusbymarchingroundseveraltimes，andsomanipulatingherpotastoproducethelargestvolumeofsmoke。Thiscustom，whichissogeneralthroughoutCyprus，issupposedtoaverttheevil-eye；butIimaginethatitoriginatedduringaperiodwhentheplagueorsomeotherfatalepidemicwasprevalentintheisland，andfumigationwassupposedtoactasapreventative。
Thereisnomedicinalpropertyintheolive-leaf，butasthetreeispracticallyundying，Iattributetheuseoftheleavesasincensetobesymbolicallyconnectedwiththeblessingofalonglifeexpressedtoawelcomedguest。Itisoneofthosevestigesoftree-worshipwhichmaybetracedinalmosteverycountry，bothsavageandcivilised，andmaybeseenexhibitedinEgypt，wherethealmosteverlastingspeciesofaloeissuspendedabovethedoorwayofahouseasatalismanorsafeguardtothefamilywithin：theideathusexpressed，“Astheplantneverdies，mayyourfamilylastforever。“Wegotridoftheoldhagandhersmokyoffering，andshebecamelostinthecrowdwhichthrongedaroundus；
thiswascomposedoftheugliest，dirtiest，shortest，andmostrepulsivelotoffemalesthatIeversaw：itwaspainfultolookatthem。
Therewasageneralcomplaintthatthesilkwormshaddeteriorated，andthatthemulberry-treeshadsufferedfromadiseasewhichhadkilledgreatnumbers。Itappearedtomethatthedecayofthetreeswasasufficientreasonfortheinferiorityofthesilkworms。Thiswasaseriouslosstotheinhabitants，asRizo-Carpaswascelebratedbothforthequalityandquantityofitssilk-production。
Fromthewatershedafewhundredyardsbehindourcampwehadagoodviewofthenortherncoastbelow，whichextendedinaseriesofrockybaysandprominentpointstothewest，whiletheentirecountryfromtheshoretotherisinggroundformedarichpictureofcaroub-treesandplotsofcultivation。Thehillsuponwhichwestood，about450feetabovethesea，werethecontinuationsofthelongCarpasrange，wheretheforceoftheupheavalhadbecomeexpendedtowardstheeast。Aswelookedwestwardthelineofhillsgraduallyheightened，untilthewell-knownpointsofthecompactlimestonewereclearlydistinguishedamongtheruggedoutlinesofthegreateraltitudes。
TherewasnothingofinteresttoinducealongerstayinRizo-Carpas，thereforewestartedonthefollowingmorninguponourreturnjourney，andafteralovelymarchoftwentymiles，partlyalonganelevatedplateauwhichcommandedaviewofbothseasnorthandsouth，andthendescendingsome700or800feetbyasteepandinterestingpass，wearrivedatLithrankomi，afterpassingthroughGallibornu。
Tomyastonishmenttheoxenandtheirdrivers，insteadofawaitingmeatLithrankomi，werestillatthelattervillage，andhearingthatwehadpassedthrough，theycameontojoinus，butonlyarrivedsomehourslater，atnightfall。Idischargedmycamelsthatevening，asthecartswouldbegintheirnewcontractonthefollowingmorning。
Iroseearlyonthenextday，aswehadalongmarchoftwenty-twomilesbeforeustoTrichomo；butastheoxenhadbeenrestingformanydays，andIhadbeenpayinghighlyfortheirfoodwhiletheyhadbeendoingnothing，Iknewtheymustbeinfirst-ratecondition，andinspiteofbadroadstheywouldaccomplishthedistance。Therewasalwaysadifficultyininducingthecarterstostartearly，butthismorningtherewasagreaterdelaythanusual，andImyselfwenttosuperintendtheloadingofthecarts。Icouldhardlybelievemyeyes！InGeorgi\'scarttheoxenhadbeenyoked。Therewasablackcreatureabouthalfafootshorterthanitsfellow，andcomposedofskinandbones。Thehornsofthisanimalwereantiquities：adrawnappearanceabouttheheadandface，anddeeplysunkeneyes，denotedextremeage。ThefellowoxI
recognisedaftersometimeasouroldfriendinreducedcircumstances；
ithadbeengoingthroughacourseofwildartichokesandpricklythistlessinceIhadseenitlast，whichhadbroughtitintoracingconditionbythelossofatleastahundredweightofflesh；thepoorbeastlookedstarved。GeorgihadaccordinglysavedthewholeoftheallowanceIhadpaidforfoodofthebestquality，whichhehadpocketedwhilehisanimalwasturnedouttograze。“Wherearemyoxen？”I
inquiredoftheconsciousGeorgi；whowiselyremainedsilent。InowturnedtoTheodori\'steam，andIatonceperceivedthathealsohadexchangedoneofthesuperboxenwhichIhadhired，anduponwhichIhaddependedfordrawingthegipsy-van；butthenewpurchasewasaverybeautifulanimal，althoughinferiorinheighttoitscompanion，whichhadmuchfallenoffincondition，havingbeenfeduponthesameunnutritiousfood。Ihadbeenregularlydone，astheanimalsforwhichI
hadpaidhighlyhadnotonlybeenneglected，buthadbeenexchanged。
IveryquicklyexplainedtotheproprietorsthattheyhadnorightwhatevertoexchangetheoxenwhichIhadengaged，andforwhichIwaspayinginmyabsence，thereforeIshouldrefusetoacceptthem，asthecontractwasbroken；andIimmediatelyorderedthecamelstobeloadedwiththecontentsofthecarts。Fortunatelythedischargedanimalsweregrazingwithinafewyardsofourcamp。
MyservantsnowexplainedthatGeorgithethick-headedhadbeendonebyhisdearfriendandcompanionTheodori，“themanofability，“whohadaccompaniedmeintotheCarpaswiththesoleintentionofcattle-dealing。ItappearedthataftermydeparturefromGallibornu，Theodorihadsuggestedtohisfriendthatasavingmightbeeffectedinthekeepoffouranimalsbyreducingthemtotwo，andheadvisedthattheyshouldatonceselleachoneox，andarrangetopurchasenewanimalsbythetimethatIshouldreturn；theywouldbythismethodpockethalfthesumwhichIhadagreedtopaydailyforfouroxenduringmyabsenceatCapeSt。Andrea。Theysubsequentlycametotheconclusionthattheirremainingoxenshouldliveupontheirwitsandthistles，insteadofcausinganexpenseinthepurchaseofcotton-seed，lentils，andtibbin(brokenbarley-straw)。TheodoriinformedGeorgithatheknewoftwobeautifulanimalsthatmightbeobtainedbytheexchangeoftwooftheiroxenwithasmallsumofmoneyinaddition，andhewouldarrangethematterifGeorgiwouldpartwiththedarkcream-colouredoxwithblackpoints(hisbest)。Ofcoursetheinnocent-minded，broad-shouldered，herculeanGeorgiknewthathisfriendwouldprotecthisinterests，andheleftthematterinhishands。TheunmitigatedrascalTheodoriknewthatthebeautifulfatredoxthathewishedtopurchasewassomeyearsyoungerthantheoldwell-trainedoxenwhichformedhispair，andthereforeitwouldbemorevaluable；heaccordinglyagreedtogiveoneofhisoxenandoneofGeorgi\'sFORAPAIRfromtheproprietorofthefatredanimal，whoconsentedtotheexchange，receivingthetwofineanimalswhichIhadhiredand，givingthevaluableyoungredoxtogetherwiththemiserableoldcreaturethatI
hadseenthatmorningintheyoke。Thisworn-outoldskeletonwastobeGeorgi\'sshareofthebargain！ItoldGeorgithatmydogswouldnoteattheanimalifitshoulddie，asitwastoothin。MyservantsburstoutlaughingwhenChristothecooktranslatedtheaccountofthetransaction。TheshamelessscoundrelTheodori，whowaspresent，SMILED
attherelationofhisshrewdness；andthebigGeorgiburstoutcryinglikeachildatthelossofhisfineox，theduplicityofhisfriend，andthewantofsympathyofthebystanders，whomadeajokeofhismisfortune。IwasverysorryforpoorGeorgi，ashewasreallyanexcellentfellow；hehadbeenonlyfoolishintrustingtothehonourofhisfriend，likesomegoodpeoplewhoapplyforassistancetoLordPenzance；however，therewasnohelpforit，andhedepartedcryingbitterly。
Myservantswerefondoftheman，andtheirheartsbegantosoftenaftertheyhadenjoyedthefirstheartylaughatGeorgi\'sexpense，andChristo，whowasalwaysthefactotum，shortlycamewithasuggestion，that，“IfIwouldwriteanorderfortheimmediatereturnofGeorgi\'sbullock，onthepleathatasIhadhiredtheanimalnoonehadarighttoexchangeituntiltheexpirationofmycontract，“therewouldbenodifficulty，as“thepurchaserwouldbeafraidtoretaintheanimaluponseeingGeorgiarmedwithawrittenpaper。““But，“Isaid，“whatistheuseofmywritinginEnglish，whichnoonecanunderstand？”Christoassuredmethatitwouldhaveabettereffectifnobodycouldreadthecontents，asGeorgicouldthensayanythinghepleased。Iwroteanorderforthereturnoftheoxasbelongingtemporarilytomebycontract，andGeorgihavingwipedhiseyes，immediatelysetoffonfoottowardsGallibornu，fullofconfidenceandhope。
TheodorideclaredthatitwouldbeimpossibleforhisoxentoreachTrichomoinoneday；Ithereforeloadedthecamels，andadvisedhimtoawaitGeorgi\'sreturn；shouldtheyre-appearatKuklia，wherethevanswerelying，Iwouldre-engagethemasfarasLefkosia，andinthemeantimeIwouldpaythemforthedailykeepoftheiranimals，whoweretobewellfed，andtodiscontinuethecourseofwildartichokesandthistles。
WetookadifferentrouteuponleavingLithrankomi，bykeepinguponthehighplateauinsteadofthelowervalleysthroughwhichwehadarrivedonourwayfromVolokalida。Weaccordinglyleftthisvillagesomemilestothesouth，butaswewerepassingthroughabroadcultivatedplain，aportionofwhichhadrecentlybeenploughed，weobservedacrowdofwomenandgirlswhowereengagedwithbasketsincollectingwildartichokes，whichtheploughhaddislodged。Asweapproachedasuddenrushwasmadeinourdirection，thebasketswereplacedupontheground，andaracetookplaceovertheheavysoiltoseewhowouldbethefirsttogreetus。WediscoveredthatthesewereourfriendsofVolokalida，whohadwalkedacrossthehillsinalargepartytocollectwildvegetables；theyseemeddelightedtoseeus，andinsisteduponshakinghands，which，astheyhadbeengrubbinginthefreshly-turnedground，wasratheramouldyoperation。Weshookhandswithaboutthirtymembersofthisprimitiveagriculturalsociety，andweregladtowaiveanadieubeforethearrivaloftheolderwomenintherear，whowiththeirheavynailedbootswererunningtowardsus，plungingaboutinthedeepgroundinclumsyattemptsatjuvenileactivity。Afewoftheyoungwomenwereverypretty，but，asusualinCyprus，theirfigureswereungainly，andtheirmovements，hamperedbybaggytrousersandenormoushighboots，weremostungraceful。
OnarrivalatTrichomowepitchedourtentatsomedistancefromthedwellinginwhichwehadfedsomethousandfleasuponourformervisit；
andonthefollowingmorningIdeterminedtogostraightFamagousta，abouttwelvemilesdistant。
TheroutefromTrichomoisforthemostpartalongtheseashore，butoccasionallycuttingoffthebendsbyadirectline。Theplainisadeadlevel，asithasbeenentirelydepositedbythefloodsofthePediasriver。Werodetolerablyfast，thesunbeinghotandthecountrymostuninteresting；wehadlefttheshrub-coveredsurfaceoftheCarpaswithitsromanticcliffsanddeepvalleysrichinverdure，andoncemorewewereuponthehatefultreelessplainofMessaria。DuringoursojournintheCarpasdistricttherainfallbyourgaugehadbeen1。28inches，butinthisunattractiveregiontherehadonlybeenoneortwofaintshowers，hardlysufficienttolaythedust。Thecropsaboutfiveinchesabovethegroundwerealmostdead，andtheyoungwheatandbarleywerecompletelywithered。
AboutfourorfivemilesfromFamagoustawearrivedattheruinsofancientSalamis。ThestringentprohibitionoftheBritishauthoritiesagainstasearchforantiquitiesinCyprushaddestroyedtheinterestwhichwouldotherwisehavebeentakenbytravellersinsuchexplorations。AsIhavebeforeremarked，therearenoremainstoattractattentionuponthesurface，butallancientworksareburiedfarbeneath，thereforeintheabsenceofpermissiontoexcavate，thepracticalstudyofthepastisimpossible，anditisasealedbook。
FortunatelyGeneraldiCesnolahaspublishedhismostinterestingvolume，combininghistoricalsketchesofancienttimeswithaminutedescriptionoftheenormouscollectionofantiquitieswhichrewardedhislaboursduringtenyears\'research；sothatifourgovernmentwillneitherexplorenorpermitotherstoinvestigate，wehaveatleastaninvaluablefundofinformationcollectedbythosewhoseconsularpositionduringtheTurkishruleenabledthemtomakeadditionstoourhistoricalknowledge。Mr。HamiltonLanghasalsopublishedhisexperiencesofalongresidenceintheisland，duringwhichhissuccessfulexcavationsbroughttolightvaluablerelicsofthepastwhichexplainmoreforciblythantheleavesofabookthemanners，customs，andincidentsamongthevariousraceswhichhavemadeupCyprianhistory。GeneraldiCesnola，afterquotingthelegendwhichconnectstheoriginofSalamiswiththearrivalofacolonyofGreeksunderTeucer(thesonofTelamon，kingoftheislandofSalamis)fromtheTrojanexpedition，continues，“OfthehistoryofSalamisalmostnothingisknowntillwecometothetimeofthePersianwars；butfromthattimedowntothereignofthePtolemiesitwasbyfarthemostconspicuousandflourishingofthetownsofCyprus。““OnesiusseizedthegovernmentofSalamisfromhisbrother，Gorgus，andsetupanobstinateresistancetothePersianoppressionunderwhichtheislandwaslabouring，about500B。C。IntheendhewasdefeatedbyaPersianarmyandfellinbattle，anditwasaboutthistime，ifnotinconsequenceofthisdefeat，thatthedynastyofTeucerwas，foraperiod，removedfromthegovernmentofSalamis。Astothelengthofthisperiodthereisgreatobscurity。Itseems，however，tobecertainthatwiththehelpofthePersiansaTyriannamedAbdemonhadseizedthethrone，andnotonlypaidtributetoPersia，butendeavouredtoextendthePersianpowerovertherestoftheisland。ToSalamisitselfheinvitedPhoenicianimmigrants，andintroducedAsiatictastesandhabits。“FollowinguponthisusurpationcametherevoltandtherestorationoftheTeucerdynasty，underEvagoras，B。C。374，andeventuallyuponthepartitionoftheempireofAlexandertheGreatitfelltothelotofAntigonus，aftertheseverecontestsbetweenDemetriusandMenelaus。
Likeallancientsea-portsofimportance，Salamiswastheobjectofcontinualattacks，andbydegreesitsprosperitydeclined。Inadditiontothedamageandlossbysieges，itwasseriouslyaffectedbyanearthquake，andaportiondisappearedbeneaththesea。Thesandhassubmergedalargeareaoftheruinswhichfacethesea，butGeneraldiCesnolawasabletotracetheancientwallforadistanceof6850feet。
Itisquitepossiblethattheearthquakemayhavealteredtheconditionsoftheharbour，whichinformerdayswasofconsiderableimportance。Ithasnowentirelychanged，andthebayneartheshoreisextremelyshallow，althoughgoodanchorageexistsintheroadsteadintentosixteenfathoms。
ThehighmasonrypierswhichhadsupportedthearchesoftheancientaqueductfromKythrealookedlikespectresofpastgreatnessamongthesilentruins，madedoublydesolatebythemiserableaspectofthewitheredplainaroundthem。AshortdistancefromtheseisthechurchofSt。Barnabas，raiseduponthesitewhereitisbelievedthatthebodyoftheSaintwasdiscovered，togetherwiththeGospelofSt。Matthew。HowtheSaintandtheGospelhadbeenpreservedinthedampsoilofthatneighbourhoodmustbelefttotheimagination。
Passingthroughtheruinsoftheoldtownwiththelineofthewalldistinctlyvisibleupontheseafront，weshortlyarrivedatthespotwheretheriverPediasshouldhaveanexittothesea。Nosignofariver-bedexisted，butalongseriesofswamps，composedchieflyofbaremud，wouldduringwetweatherhavemadeaconsiderabledetournecessary；theywerenowdry，withtheexceptionoftwoorthreeholesfullofmuddywater，whichwereunconnectedwithanyperceptiblechannel。Alongstonecausewayprovedthatoccasionallythehardenedmuduponwhichwerodewouldbecomealake，butfromthenumeroustracksofanimalstheearthwaspreferredtotheunevenandslipperypavementoftheartificialroad。TheenormousquantityofmudbroughtdownbythePediasduringitsfitfulinundationshadcompletelyobliteratedallsignsofanordinaryriver-bed，andthedeposithadproducedasurfacethatwasscoredinnumerousplacesbytherushofwater，withoutinanywaysuggestingthatwewereintheneighbourhoodofthelargestriverinCyprus。Thewidthofthismuddyswampwasabouttwomiles，andterminatedbyashallowlakeuponourleft。WewerenowwithinamileandaquarterofFamagousta，andthegroundbegantorise。Itstruckmethataneminenceuponourrightwassuperiortotheheightofthecitywalls，andIrodeuptoexaminetheposition。Therewasnodoubtthatitcommandedthelowerportionofthefortress，andthatadirectshell-
firecouldbeplungedintotherearofthegunswhichprotecttheentranceoftheharbour。IntheeventofmodificationsbeingintroducedwhenrestoringthedefensiveworksofFamagousta，itwouldbenecessarytoerectapowerfuldetachedfortuponthisposition，whichwouldbeanimmenseadditiontothedefencesofthecity，asitwouldenfiladetheapproachesupontwosides。
ThewallsofFamagoustaaremostimposing；theyareconstructedofcarefully-squaredstonejoinedwithcementofsuchextremehardnessthattheweatherhashadnodestructiveeffect。Theperimeterofthefortressisabout4000yards；theshapeisnearlyaparallelogram。Thefossevariesindepthandwidth，buttheminimumoftheformeristwenty-fivefeet，andofthewidtheightyfeet，butinsomeplacesitexceedsonehundredandforty。Thisformidableditchiscutoutofthesolidrock，whichistheusualcalcareoussedimentarylimestone，andthestonethusobtainedhasbeenusedintheconstructionofthewalls。Therockfoundationwouldrenderallminingoperationsextremelydifficult。Thefirefromtherampartsisincreasedbycavaliersofgreatsizeandstrength，capableofmountingnumerousheavygunsatasuperioraltitude。Theonlyentrancefromthelandsideisatthesouth-westcorner；thisisexceedinglystriking，asthefosseisabout140feetwide，thescarpandcounter-scarpalmostperpendicular，beingcutfromtheoriginalrock。
Anarrowstonebridgeuponarchesspansthispeculiarditch，thecommunicationdependinguponadoubledrawbridgeandportcullis。
ImmediatelyfacingtheentranceoutsidethefortressisanoldTurkishchurchyard，throughandabovewhichtheclosedmasonryaqueductisconductedintothetown。Followingthecourseoftheaqueductalongastraightlineofsandyheightswhichsomewhatresembleamassiverailwayembankment，wearrivedatamosqueinwhichistheveneratedtomboftheTurkishsoldierwhofirstplantedtheflaguponthewallsofFamagoustawhencaptured，in1571，fromtheVenetians。Thistombisinasmallchamberwithinthebuildingandiscoveredwithgreensilk，embroidered；
butasthecitywasnevertakenbyassault，andcapitulateduponhonourabletermsafteraprotracteddefence，thefactofestablishingtheTurkishflaguponthewallsaftertheirevacuationbythegarrisonwouldhardlyhaveentitledthestandard-bearertoaVictoriaCross；
howeverhemayhaveotherwisedistinguishedhimself，whichentailedpost-mortemhonours，perhapsbyskinningalivethegallantVenetiancommandantBragadino，whoseskin，stuffedwithstraw，wastakenintriumphtoConstantinoplehangingattheyard-armofthevictoriousgeneral\'sship。
Quittingthemosque，wecontinuedalongtheaqueduct，alwaysuponthesamesandyheights，whichgraduallyincreased，untilwearrivedatapositionabout200yardsfromawindmill。ThisformedaprominentobjectatthebackofthelargevillageofVaroschia，situatedupontheslopebeneathfacingthesea，aboutaquarterofamiledistant。Iselectedthehighestpositionforacamp；thiswasclosetotheaqueductandabout600yardsfromtheentranceofthefortress。Icountedtheembrasuresofsixgunsthatcouldhavebeenbroughttobearexactlyuponourtent，butatthesametimeIremarkedthatwecommandedthelowerportionofthefortress，andcouldfireintotherearofthebatteriesuponthesea-wallwithinthewater-gateatamostdestructiverange。
Thispositionwouldrequireadetachedfortwithalineofworksalongtheheightsflankedbyasmallfortattheextremity。ThreedetachedfortsuponasmanypointswhichnowexistwouldrenderFamagoustaimpregnable，shouldthepresentworksberepaired，andimprovedbysomeslightmodifications。
Ihadbeenthroughthefortificationsuponaformeroccasion，whenIhadtheadvantageofCaptainInglisthechiefcommissioner\'sguidance，buttheyaresoextensiveandofsuchexceedinginterestthatmanydaysmightbeexpendedinastudyofthedetails。
Uponenteringthefortressbythedrawbridgewepassedthroughthearchedanddarkwaybeneaththeramparts，andemergedintoanarrowstreet，whichwassweptandfreefromtheusualimpuritiesofaTurkishtown，thusexhibitingproofsofaBritishoccupation。Aperfectlabyrinthofnarrowlanes，borderedbymostinferiordwellings，confusedastranger，butwiththeassistanceofaguideIreachedtheresidenceofthechiefcommissionerandthevariousofficersattachedtotheestablishment。Beyondthisallmodernbuildingsceased，andFamagoustawaspresentedasitmusthaveappearedafterthesackandutterdestructionbytheTurksin1571。Itlookedasthoughatownhadbeenshatteredandutterlydestroyedbyanearth-quake，whoseterribletremblingshadshakeneveryhousetoitsfoundation，andleftnothingbutshapelessheapsofsquaredstones。OTurk！insatiableindestruction，whobreaksdown，butneverrestores，whatapictureofdesolationwashere！Threecenturieshadpassedawaysincebytreacherytheplacewaswon，andfromthathourtheneglectedharbourhadsiltedupandceasedtobe；thestonesofpalacesrestedwheretheyfell；thefilthofagesswelteredamongtheseblood-soddenruins；andtheproverbseemedfulfilled，“Thegrassnevergrowsonthefoot-printoftheTurk。“
Ineversawsofearfulanexampleofruin。
Althoughthetownwasinthishideousstate，thefortificationswereinverytolerablerepair，andhadgunsbeenmountedanenemywouldquicklyhaveacknowledgedtheirformidableimportance。Timeappearedtobealmostharmlessinattacksagainstthesevastpilesofsolidmasonry。
Theparapetsintheanglesoftheembrasuresweretwenty-fiveandtwenty-sevenfeetinthickness。Fromthesewelookeddownforty-fiveandfiftyfeetintotheditchbeneath。AswewalkedroundtherampartsandvariousbastionsweremarkedtheenormousstrengthofthecommandingcavalierstowhichIalludedfromtheoutsideappearanceoftheforts。
Therewerealsovastsubterraneanworks，store-houses，magazines，cannon-foundries，andalltheappliancesofafirst-classfortifiedtownandarsenal；butthesewereofcourseempty，andwiththeexceptionofasmallchambernearthewater-gate，whichcontainedanumberofrustyhelmetsandbreastplates，therewasnoobjectofinterestbeyondtheactualplanofthedefences。
Thewater-gatewasapproachedbyawindingentrancebeneathapowerfulcircularbastionfromanextremelynarrowquay，fromwhichtheremainsofaoncepowerfulmoteprojectedabout120yardsintotheseaandcommandedtheinnerharbour。Thiswasnowamerelineoflooseanddisjointedstones。Acitadelthatisseparatedfromthemainfortressbyawetditchwhichcommunicateswiththeseabyanaditbeneaththewallcommandstheharbourontheeastside。Thisditchisasusualscarpedfromtherock，andotherwiseofsolidmasonry；shouldthefortresshavebeensuccessfullycarriedbyassaultonthelandside，avigorousdefencemighthavebeenmaintainedinthisindependentcitadeluntileitherreinforcementsshouldarrivebysea，oranescapemightbeeffectedtofriendlyvessels。
ItiscommonlyassertedthatFamagoustaundertheLusignansandVenetians“counteditschurchesbyhundredsanditspalatialmansionsbythousands。“Itwouldcertainlyhavebeenimpossiblethattheycouldhaveexistedwithinthepresentarea，asalargeextentmusthavebeenrequiredforbarrackaccommodationforthegarrison，parade-grounds，&c。
Thereareruinsofseveralfinechurcheswiththefrescoesstillvisibleuponthewalls。TheCathedralofSt。NicholasisabeautifulobjectintheGothicstyle。AlthoughdismantledandconvertedintoamosquebytheTurks，theroofisingoodrepair，anditsmagnificentproportionsremain，buttheyaremarredbythestoppingofthewindowswithroughstonesandmortar。Thetotallengthofthecathedralis172feet6。5
inches。Lengthofapse(includedinabove)30feet9inches；breadthofapse32feet3inches；breadthofcathedral74feet1inch；
circumferenceofpillars15feet3inches，therebeing12pillarsinall。
Ontheoutsidewallsarethemarksofvariouscannon-shotwhichappeartohavebeensuccessfullyresistedbythesoftbuttoughsedimentarylimestone，whichisofsimilarqualitytothatusedintheconstructionofthefortress。Iobservedthattheimpactoftheshothasbeenconfinedtotheimmediateneighbourhoodoftheblow，andthattheconcussionhasnotbeencommunicatedtotheadjoiningstone，buthasexpendeditselfincrumblingtheopposingsurfacetothedepthinwhichitwaseventuallyimbedded。ItwouldbeinterestingtotrysomeexperimentsuponthosewallsofFamagousta(whichmayalreadyrequirerepairoralteration)withmodernheavyartillery，asshouldthisstoneexhibitunusualpowersofresistanceitmaybecomevaluable。Nothingwouldbeeasierthantofireafewroundsfromaship\'sbatterytoprovethequestion。
ThecourtyardofanancientVenetianpalacenowformstheBritishparade-ground。Thisfacesthecathedralentrance，andisornamentedbypilesofmarblecannon-shot，whichareupwardsofteninchesindiameter；theseweretheVenetianrelicsofthesiegeof1571。
FromCapeGrecotoCapeElaea，southtonorth，isabouttwenty-fivemiles；thesepointsformthebay，ninemilesinextremewidth。Althoughopentotheeastandsouth-east，FamagoustaistheonlyrealharbourinCyprusthatcanbeavailableforlargevessels，andtherecanbenodoubtthataverymoderateoutlaywouldnotonlyrestoreitsancientimportance，butwouldmakethoseadditionsofmoderntimesthatarerequiredforafirst-rateandimpregnablecoaling-stationandarsenal。
Itwasblowingafreshgalefromthesouth-eastwhenIwasstandingontherampartsfacingtheseaabovethewater-gate，andanadmirableexamplewasdisplayedinthewave-breakingpowerofthelonglineofsunkenreefswhichformacontinuationofthosenaturalbreakwatersabovethesurfacethathaveformedtheharbour。Atremendoussurfexhibitedacreamystreakalongthemarginofcomparativelystillwaterwithinthereefsforaboutamileparallelwiththeshore，comprisinganareaofabout700yards\'widthattheextremityofthesunkenrocks，and500fromtheexistingbreakwaterexactlyoppositethewater-gate。
Withinthissecurehavenseveralnativevesselsweresnuglyatanchor，butshipsofwarwouldhardlyventureamongthevaryingshallowscausedbycenturiesofsilt；suchlargevesselsgenerallyanchorinseventeenfathomsaboutamilefromtheshore，buttheyarecompletelyexposedtowindfromeastandsouth-east。Theinnerharbourisformedbytheartificialconnectionofraisedheadsofprojectingreefsbystonejetties。Atrightangleswiththiscompletedefenceoflimestonerockisawallorjettyfromtheshore，whichforadistanceof170yardsinclosesthebasinofperfectlystillwaterwithin。Theentrancetothissnuglittleportisaboutfortyyardsinwidth，andthedepthismostirregular，varyingfromdrysiltclosetothesouthendofthereefsuptotwelvefeetbeneaththewallsofthefortress。Thereweremanysmallcoasting-vesselsandcaiqueswhichtradebetweenthevariousportsofSyriaandAsiaMinor，allhavingsoughtshelterfromthebadweatherwithintheport；andthepicturepresentedduringthestronggalewasthoroughlyillustrativeofthenaturaladvantagesandthefuturerequirementsoftheharbour。Thelonglineofreefswhichformtheouterprotectionwould，weretheyexposedintheirwholelength，representanirregularinclinefromabouttwelvefeetabovethesealevelatthesouthernendtothreefathomsbelowwateratthenorthernextremity。A
wedgelaidwithitsbroadbasetothesouthwouldrepresenttheinclinationofthislonglineofusefulreef，whichcanbeconvertedintoasea-wallbysimplyfilling-inwithblocksofconcretetoasufficientheightabovetheextremewater-mark。Theancientjettywhichconnectsthesmallislandsthatformthenorthernheadofthereefisinitselfanexampleofthenecessityofsuchanextensionthroughouttheline。Anaturalheadlandterminatingindisconnectedrocksuponthenorthboundaryofthereefabouthalfamileabovethefortressisasecureprotectionfromthesea，butitadmitsthesilt。Thishascompletelyfilledinaconsiderableportionoftheoriginalharbour，andwerethissea-communicationdestroyedbyconnectingthevariousreefswiththemainheadland，theevilwouldbeatonceprevented，andtheinclosedareamightbecleansedbydredging。Thiswouldnotonlyaddtotheaccommodationoftheinnerharbourbyaconsiderableextension，butitwouldaffordanadmirablepositionforaseriesofdocks，andyardsfortherepairingofvessels。Iwalkedthroughthewholeofthisconfinedmassofrocks，silt，andwateronlyafewinchesdeep，andwasmuchimpressedwiththecapabilitiesofthelocality。SuchpowerfuldredgersasareusedintheSuezCanalwouldclearawaythedeposit，withanoutlaythatcouldbecalculatedbythecubiccontents，andthelargemarginthatmustgenerallybeallowedinallestimatesforharbourworkswould，inthecaseofFamagousta，besuperfluous。
Therearetwoenemiestoberesisted——thesea，andthesilt。ThelatterhasbeenandstillisbroughtdownbythePediasriver；thishasentirelyblockedtheancientharbourofSalamis，andpartiallydestroyedthatofFamagousta。Theengineerhastorepeltheseenemies，andhepossessesagreatadvantageinthefactthatFamagoustahasalreadyexistedasamostimportantharbour，thereforeheisnotexperimentinguponanunknownbottom。Thelineofreefsaffordstheengineer\'schiefdesideratum，“asoundfoundation，“andthematerialsforhisconcreteblocksarecloseathandinthechaoticmassofstonenowchokingwithruinstheareaofthecity，intheneighbouringruinsofSalamis，and，nearerstill，inthenativerockfromwhichFamagoustahasbeenquarried。TheislandofSantorinfromwhencethepozzolanoissuppliedforhydrauliccement，isonlythreedaysdistant。Fewplacespossessinsohighadegreethenaturaladvantagesforbecomingafirst-classharbour，andithasbeencomputedthatabout300acresofwatercanbeconvertedintoawall-lockedbasin，withanentrancefromthesouththatwouldbesecureduringallweathers。TheBayofFamagoustaisextremelydeep，exceeding150fathomswhichaffordsanadditionalfacilityforgettingridofthecontentsofthelighters，asthemudfromthedredgerscouldbedischargedatseawithoutdangerofitsreturn。
Allcompetentpersonswhohaveexaminedthepresentharbourareunanimousintheopinionthat“averymoderateoutlaywouldsecureafirst-classport，whichwould，asanimpregnablecoaling-depotandarsenal，completethelinksofthechainoffortresseswhicharetheguardiansoftheMediterranean。InawarwithanymaritimePowerthefirstnecessityisanuninterruptedlineoffortifiedcoaling-stations，atintervalsnotexceedingfivedays\'steamingattenknots。Anavalwarwilldependentirelyuponthesupplyofcoal，whichwillinallprobabilitybedeclared“contrabandofwar。“IntheabsenceofadependablechainofstationsTHROUGHOUTTHEWORLD，theactionofthemostpowerfulcruiserswillbeextremelylimited，astheywillberenderedhelplesswhentheirsupplyisreducedtotheminimumsufficienttocarrythemtoafriendlyport。
Whereoceansmustbetraversed，thedifficultywillbeincreased，asthecoal-capacityofthevesselwillonlycommandagivenmileage；shewillthereforebeinherweakestconditionafteralongvoyage，andasherfightingpowermustdependuponhersteam，preciselyasthestrengthofmandependsuponhisfood，shemustbeabsolutelycertainofobtainingasupplyofcoalineveryseawhereherpresenceisrequired。
Shouldthemostpowerfulvesselafloat，afteralongcruiseduringwhichshehasencounteredhead-windsandweatherthathadcauseddelayandagreatconsumptionoffuel，bereducedtoonlyafewhours\'steaming，shewouldbeatthemercyofaninferiorantagonistwhosebunkersmightbewellfilled。ThecommerceandthecoloniesofGreatBritaindemandthepresenceofourvesselsineverysea；thegreaterpartofthatenormouscarrying-powerisnowrepresentedbysteamerswhichhavereplacedthesailing-vesselsofold：thereforeintheeventofwarwemustpossesscoaling-depotswhichincaseofnecessitycouldmeetthedemandsofanyofourships，whethernavalorcommercial。
Theattentionoftheusuallyfar-seeingpublicisseldomdirectedtothisimportantquestionofcoaling-stations，butanexaminationofarecentlyconstructedglobewilldiscovertheapparentlyinsignificantreddotswhichrepresentthedominantpowerofEnglandineveryportionoftheworld。Thesmallestislandmaybecomethemostimpregnableandimportantcoaling-depot。Itisthefashionforsomemodernreformers(happilyfew)tosuggestacurtailmentoftheBritishEmpire，ontheprinciplethat“bypruningweshouldimprovethestrengthofthenationaltree。“Iftherearerottenboughs，orexhaustinganduselessshoots，theanalogymightbepractical；butifweexaminecarefullyamapoftheworlditwouldpuzzletheRoyalGeographicalSocietytodeterminethepointthatweshouldabandon。AnexampleoftemporaryinsanitywasdisplayedintheevacuationofCorfu；whichwouldunderourpresentforeignpolicyhavebecomeinvaluableasapowerfullyfortifiedcoaling-station，commandingtheentranceoftheAdriaticandtheneighbouringseas。ItisthisunfortunateprecedentwhichisparalysingallthenaturalelasticityofcommercialenterpriseinCyprus，astheinhabitantsandEnglishalikefeeltheirinsecurity，andhesitatebeforetheuncertainfuture，whichmaydependuponapartyvoteinthedistantHouseofCommons。
TherecanbenodoubtthatCyprusorCretewasrequisitetoEnglandasthemissinglinkinthechainofourcommunicationswithEgypt。Asastrategicalpoint，CyprusmustberepresentedbyFamagousta，withoutwhichitwouldbeuselessfortheostensiblepurposeofitsoccupation。
ManypersonsofgreatpracticalexperiencewouldhavepreferredCrete，asalreadypossessingasafeharbourinSudaBay，withaclimatesuperiortothatofCyprus，whileaccordingtoourassumeddefensivealliancewithTurkeyintheeventofarenewedattackbyRussia，weshouldhaveacquiredtheadvantageofCypruswheneverrequired，withouttheexpenseorresponsibility，andweshouldinadditionhaveestablishedastationonthecoastofAsiaMinoratthesecureharbouraffordedbytheGulfofAyasatAlexandretta。
Thesegeographicalquestionsareamatterofopinion，butnowthatweactuallyhaveoccupiedCyprusitisabsolutelynecessarytodosomething。WithoutFamagousta，theislandwouldbeworthlessasanavalstation；withit，asafirst-classharbourandarsenal，weshoulddominatetheeasternportionoftheMediterranean，entirelycommandtheapproachtoEgypt，andkeepopenourcommunicationswiththeSuezCanalandtheconsequentroutetoIndia。IntheeventoftheEuphratesvalleylineofrailwaybecominganaccomplishedfact，Cypruswilloccupythemostcommandingposition。But，alltheseadvantageswillbeneutralisedunlessFamagoustashallrepresentthepowerofEnglandlikeMaltaandGibraltar。ThemoreminutelythatwescrutinisethequestionofaCyprianoccupation，themoreprominentbecomestheimportanceofFamagousta；withit，Cyprusisthekeyofagreatposition；withoutit，theaffairisadead-lock。
Thereisunfortunatelyaseriousdrawbackintheextremeunhealthinessofthisotherwiseinvaluablesituation，Famagousta，whichwouldatpresentrenderitunfitforamilitarystation。Thereareseveralcauses，allofwhichmustberemoved，beforethenecessarysanitarychangecanbeaccomplished。Thevastheapsofstones，allofwhichareofanextremelyporousnature，haveabsorbedtheaccumulatedfilthofages，andthelargeareanowoccupiedbytheseruinsmustbeafertilesourceofnoxiousexhalations。Duringtherainyseasonthesurfacewater，carryingwithiteveryimpurity，furnishesafreshsupplyofpoisontobestoredbeneaththesehealth-destroyingmasses，whichcannotpossiblybecleansedotherwisethanbytheircompleteobliteration。Itmaybereadilyunderstoodthatthehighrampartsofthewallstoacertainextentpreventaduecirculationofair，whichincreasesthedangerofmiasmafromtheruin-coveredandreekingareaoftheoldVenetiancity。Shouldtheharbourworksbecommenced，allthisnowuselessanddangerousmaterialwillbeavailableforconstructingtheblocksofconcreterequiredforthesea-wall，andthesurfaceofthetownwillbeentirelyfreedfromthepresentnuisancewithoutadditionalexpense。ThefewmodernbuildingsshouldbecompulsorilypurchasedbytheGovernment，andentirelysweptaway，sothattheareainclosedbythefortificationwallsshouldrepresentaperfectlycleansuccessionoflevelsintheformofbroadterraces，whichwoulddrainuniformlytowardsthesea。Uponthesepurifiedandwell-drainedplateauxthenewtowncouldbeerected，uponaspecialplansuitabletothelocality，andinharmonywiththemilitaryrequirementsofafortifiedposition。Thevalueofthelandthusrecoveredfromtheexistingruinwouldbeconsiderable，and，ifletonbuildingleases，wouldrepaytheexpenseoflevelling，draining，andarrangingforoccupation。Inthismanneroneoftheprimecausesofthepresentunhealthinesswouldberemoved；bythesameoperation，theditchofthecitadelwouldbepumpeddry，andallcommunicationshutofffromthesea，whichnowproducesastagnantandoffensivepool，breedingonlyreeds，mosquitoes，andmalaria。
WenowarriveatthemostformidableoriginoftheFamagoustafever——themarshescausedbytheoverflowofthePediasriver。ThedescriptionthatIhavealreadygivenofthedeltaformedbythedepositofmudduringinundations，andthetotalabsenceofanyexitforthewatersbyanaturalchannel，willconveytothemindsofthemostinexperiencedanextremecauseofdanger。Icanseeonlyonepracticablemethodofsurmountingthisgreatdifficulty。ThePediasrivermustbeconductedtotheseathroughanartificialchannel，anditmust(liketheRhone)beconfinedbetweenraisedbanksofsufficientheighttopreventanychanceofoverflow，andofawidtharrangedtoproducearapidcurrent，thatwillscourthebedandcarrythemudtodepositfarbeyondtheshore。
Thisworkwouldbeexpensive，but，ontheotherhand，thecollateraladvantageswouldbegreat。Theland，whichisnowalmostvalueless，owingtotheuncertaintyofinundations，wouldberenderedfruitful，andbyanarrangementofcattle-wheelstheirrigationcouldalwaysbeensured，asthewaterexistswithinfivefeetofthepresentsurface。Atthismoment，neitherdrainsaremade，noranycontrolofnatureisexercisedbythefever-strickenpopulation，whotrustentirelytotheuncertainchancesoftheseasons。WehaveanexampleintheoriginalfensofLincolnshire，which，byasystemofdrainage，havebeenbroughtintoagriculturalvalue；aseriesoflargeanddeepopenditches，suchasareseenineverymarshorriver-meadowthroughoutEngland，wouldnotonlydrainthesurfaceoftheFamagoustadelta，butwouldsupplythewater，toberaisedbycattle-liftsandwind-pumps，forthepurposesofirrigation。Thereismuchworkfortheagriculturalengineer，butifthisimportantenterpriseisseriouslycommencedthefutureresultswillwellrepaytheoutlay。
SomepersonshaveattributedthecauseofunhealthinesstotheexistenceofthetrenchesmadebytheTurksduringthesiegein1571，whichareconsideredtoemitmalariousexhalations。Idonotthinkso；alltheselowlevels，surroundedbyhighbankswhichprotectthecropsfromwind，aremostcarefullycultivatedwithbeans，cereals，cotton，andgardenproduce，andIdonotbelievethatsuccessfulgardensaremalarious，butonlythoselocalitieswherewaterisallowedtobecomestagnant，inwhichcasecultivationmustbeafailure。Manyoftheserichbottomswereatonetimevaluableas“madder“grounds，andConsulWhitestatesthatin1863goodmadder-rootlandatFamagoustawasworth90poundsperacre。Itmaynotbegenerallyknownthattheindelibledyecalled“Turkeyred“wasformerlyproducedfromthemadder-root，butthatithasbeenentirelysupersededbythechemicalinventionknownas“alizarine，“
which，byreducingthepriceinaruinousdegree，hasdriventhevegetablesubstanceoutofthemarket，andthemadderisnolongercultivated。Thischemicaldiscoveryhasloweredtherich，deep，sandyloamsofFamagoustaandofMorphutoamereaverageagriculturalvalue，andhascompletelydestroyedanimportantlocalindustry。
Themadder-rootrequiredthreeyearsbeforeitarrivedatmaturity。FromConsulRiddell\'sreportin1872，theamountofmadderexportedreached330tons，ofwhich250tonswereshippedforGreatBritain。Thesameauthorityreportsin1873，“Thefalling-off，however，inthequantitysenttoGreatBritainisremarkable，beingonly230cwts。(11。5tons)。“
Thisdisappearanceofaspecialagriculturalindustryhasbeenanenormouslosstotheproprietorsofthemadder-lands。
Thefruit-orchardsandgardensofFamagoustaarethefinestintheisland。Thelandisextremelyrich，andofabrightchocolatecolour，butthetreesare，asusualinCyprus，plantedtooclosetoeachother，whichinterfereswiththenecessarylightandcirculationofair。Thesegardenscommencejustoutsidethewalls，and，runningparallelwiththeseabelowthelargevillageofVaroschia，extendforabouttwomilesalongtheshore。Oranges，lemons，pomegranates，apricots，figs，pricklypearsandmulberry-trees，arethechiefproducts，anditwasherethatweobtainedthelargestandbestorangesthatIhadtastedintheisland；generallythisfruitismuchinferiortothevarietiesimportedintoEngland。ThepomegranatesofCyprusareverycelebrated，andareexportedtoEgypt，butitisafruitthatisnotgenerallyappreciatedbyEuropeans。Thereareextensivegardensinland，buttheydonotconveytheideaof“gardens“asunderstoodbyEnglishmen，butaremerelydensegrovesofvariousfruit-trees，irrigatedbyacattle-wheel，andplantedwithanutterdisregardofalltasteorarrangement。
Thelargevillage，ortownofVaroschiaisanimportantadjuncttoFamagousta，fromwhichitishardlyseparated。ItwasoriginallyfoundedbytheVenetianChristians，whowereexpelledfromFamagoustaaftertheTurkishconquest。ThereisalargeGreekChurch，extensivebazaars，andseveralmanufacturesofpottery，forwhichthelocalityiscelebrated。
Wesawavesselloadingintheharbourentirelywiththese——jars，water-bottles，dishes，&c——buttheearthen-wareisofacoarsedescription，andthequalityoftheclaydoesnotadmitofsufficientporosityforthepurposeofcoolingwateroroffiltering，liketheEgyptianware；atthesametimeitisnotsufficientlyimperviousfortheretentionofwineoroilwithoutaconsiderablelossbyabsorption。
Varoschiahasbeenalwayscelebratedforalargeproductionofahighqualityofsilk，butthequantityhasfallenoff，asinallotherpartsoftheisland。Therearesomegoodhousesinthisthrivingandbusylittletown，anditissaidthatdecentaccommodationmaybehad；butI
preferredthecleanlinessandindependenceofourowntent。
VaroschiaisnotmuchhealthierthanFamagousta，asitsuffersfromthesamecause，inadditiontoanenormousaccumulationoffilthontheheightsattherearofthetown。Ifthiswerecarefullystoredtomanurethenumerousgardens，itwouldbeprofitablyutilised；butitbelongstonobodyinparticular，andisapublicnuisance。Afineshouldbeinflicteduponthemunicipalauthoritiesinthesanitaryinterestsofthepopulation，andtherefuseoftheneighbourhoodshouldbeperiodicallycollectedintoheapsandburned。CaptainInglisandthevariousBritishofficialsmovedtheirquartersfromFamagoustatothehealthyvillageofDerinia，aboutthreemilesdistant，duringourstaynearVaroschia。Thenewstationistothesouth-westoftheport，andcompletelybeyondtheinfluenceofthemarshes，theelevationbeingabout250feetabovethesea。Shouldthislocalitybecomeapermanentlyhealthysettlement，thesanitarydifficultyofourpositionwillbeconsiderablymodified，asthetroopsmightbequarteredatDeriniaintimeofpeace，andevenduringwartheywouldbeimmediatelywithincall。
AlakeexistsaboutthreemilesinlandfromFamagousta，whichisbetweenfourandfivemilesincircumference；thewaterisfresh，butexceedinglyshallowandimpure，theedgescoveredwithhighreeds，whichextendforseveralhundredyardsfromtheshore。Thislakeswarmswithvarietiesofwater-fowl，whichcanonlybeshotbywadingandwaitingconcealedinthehighcoverofrushesandtamarisk，astheyareexceedinglywary。CommanderHammond，ofH。M。S。Torch，baggedthirty-fiveduckstohisowngunupononeoccasion，bythuschallengingthefeverandremaininghip-deepinthemuddywaterforsomehours。Ididnotfeeldisposedtoriskthechancesofmalaria，astheeffluviumfromthemudwassufficientlyoffensiveevenwhenwalkingroundthemargin，andI
alreadyfeltsomewarningsymptomsoftheheavyatmosphereofFamagousta，whichmight，ifneglected，haveterminatedinague。Ishotafinespecimenoftheglossyibis，andIotherwisecontentedmyselfwithwatchingthevarietyofducks，coots，teal，andotherwater-fowlthroughmyglass，astheyenjoyedthemselvesinflocksuponthesurfaceofthelakeatagreatdistance。
HavingexhaustedthesightsofFamagousta，westartedonthe22ndofMarchforKuklia，twelvemilesdistant，wherewehadleftourvansinchargeoftheheadmanduringourabsenceintheCarpascountry。Uponourarrivalwefoundthemuntouchedorunharmed，andweweremetnotonlybytheheadmanhimself，butbyourtwobullock-driversGeorgiandTheodori，whohadcomefromLithrankomi。Georgihadrecoveredfromthedespairwhichhadoverpoweredhimwhenwelastparted，andhewasalmosttriumphantwhenherelatedthesuccessofhismissiontoGallibornuwiththemysteriouspaperwritteninEnglish，thatIhadgivenhiminordertoterrifythepurchaserofhisbullock。Hehadexhibitedthisawe-inspiringepistle，whichnobodycouldeitherreadorunderstand，andGeorgihadtakenadvantageofhisopportunitytothreatenthesharpcattle-dealerwithalonglistofimaginarypunishmentsthatwouldbeinflictedbyEnglishlawshouldherefusetoreturnthebullock，whichhadbeenhiredforaspecialservicebyanEnglishman。Thepaperwascloselyscrutinised，andbeinginanunknowncharacter，Georgifelthisadvantage，andexpoundedthecontentssoforciblythatheworkeduponthefearsoftheinhabitantsofGallibornu，whoinsistedthattheTurkshouldcompromisetheaffairandreturnthehandsomebullock，receivinginexchangehisownhalf-starvedoldanimal，inadditiontoapresentofhalfasovereign。Georgiwasonlytoodelightedtoimmediatelyclenchthebargain。Iadvisedhiminfuturetomanagehisowncattle-dealinginsteadofconfidinginhisablefriendTheodori，andIorderedtheoxentobeputintheyokesatonce，andtodrawthevanstoouroldcamping-placebeneaththehawthorn-tree。Uponarrivalatthespotagreatchangehadtakenplace；thehawthornswereamassofblossom，andscentedtheairforaconsiderabledistance；thegrovesoffig-treeshadbrokenintoleaf；thetrefoilhadgrowntoaheightoftwofeet，andnumerouscattleweretetheredintherichfield，tofeeduponthefewsquareyardsthateachownerhadpurchasedatahighpricetosavehisanimalsfromstarvation。Afieldofbroad-beansthatwehadleftinearlyblossomtwenty-fourdaysbeforenowproducedourwell-knownvegetablefordinner，andIobservedthatthenativechildren，withtheirusuallikingforuncookedfood，wereeatingtheseindigestiblebeansraw！
Therehadbeennorainsinceourdeparture，andeverycropthatwasnotirrigatedwasabsolutelydestroyed。Theaspectofthecountrywaspitiable；itshouldhavebeenatthisseasonawavingseaofgreenbarleyandyoungwheat，butitwasawithereddesert——withafewpatchesofverdurelikeoasesinathirstywilderness。ThisterriblecalamityextendedthroughouttheentiredistrictorplainofMessaria，andexhibitedasadexampleofthegreatnecessityofCyprus——“anorganisedsystemofartificialirrigation。“
WeremainedsomedaysatKuklia，duringwhichIstrengthenedthegipsy-vanbylashingtheframe-workwithrawbull\'s-hideandsecuringtheblocksofthespringstotheaxleswiththesamematerial。Itisworthyofnote“thatafreshhideshouldneverbeusedforlashing，butaskinthathasbeenalreadydriedshouldbesoakedfortwenty-fourhours，andthencutintoastripascarefullyandaslongasthesizewillpermit。Whenthusprepared，itshouldbere-soakedforfourorfivehours，andusedwhilewetasalashing，drawnastightaspossible。Thepowerofcontractionisenormous，andwhendrytheskinbecomesashardaswood；butafreshhidehasnotthesamecontractivepower，andwillstretchandbecomeloosewhensubjecttoaseverestrain。“Itwasagreatcomforttoreturntotheluxuryofthegipsy-van，whichlookedthepictureofneatness；thegorgeousEgyptianlanternhadceasedtoexistasanobjectofvalue，asithadseveraltimesbeenupsetandthrowncompletelyoffitshookbythejumpingsandbumpingsofthevehiclewhenforciblydraggedoverthesteepbanksandwatercourses。Itwasnowreducedtoan“antique，“andlookedasthoughithadbeenrecoveredfromtheruinsofanancienttemple。
ThepostwaskindlyforwardedfromFamagoustabythechiefcommissioner，andwerevelledinnewspapers，whichduringourstayintheCarpashadbeenacompleteblank。OurcookChristohadalsoreceivedletterswhichdisconcertedhim。Afterdinneratabout8。30P。M。hesuddenlyappearedatthetentdoorwithaverylargebreakfast-cupinhishand。“Ibegyourpardon，sir，butI\'msorrytosaymymotherhasjustfallendownandbrokenherleg！”washisfirstannouncement；andhecontinued，“sheisanoldwoman，pastfifty，sir，andabrokenlegisaverybadthing；
Ihavecometoaskforsomebrandy，andI\'vebroughtacup。“
“Yourmotherbrokenherleg，Christo？Why，whereisshe？”Ireplied。
“SheisatAthens，sir，andIwantadropofbrandy，asIhavejustreceivedtheletter，andIamveryanxiousabouther。“
Inowdiscoveredthatthebrandywasnotintendedforhismother\'sleg，butforhisownstomach，tocomforthisnervesandtoallayhisfilialanxiety。Hehadagooddosethatquicklyrestoredhisusualspirits，asIheardhimrelatingstoriesintheservants\'tentwhichcreatedroarsoflaughter。
Christowasanexcellent，hard-workingfellow，whohavingpassedhislifeatsea，wasexceedinglyhandy，andcombinedtheusualgoodqualitiesofasailorwiththeartofcookeryandacertainknowledgewhichenabledhimtoactasinterpreter。Hewasascleverinlashingupavanwithrawhideasinpreparingadinnerattheshortestnotice，andhismayonnaisewouldhaveraisedtheenvyofmanyaprofessorinEngland。HisEnglishvariedlikehisdishes，anduponcertaindaystherewasaconsiderablevaguenessinhislanguage，whileatothertimesheexpressedhimselfclearly。UpononeofthesefoggyintervalsIaskedhim“Whythepeoplehadmadesomuchnoiseduringthenight？”andhereplied，that“Alittlehen-horsehadmadeonechildinthestable！”Heintendedtoexplainthataponyhadfoaledinthestable。Whenhefirstjoinedushefrequentlyrambledandconfusedhisgenders，andtermedallfemales“hens，“whichattimeshadalmostasludicrousaneffectasthemistakesofmyAfricancook，whoinvariablycalled“cocksandhens“——
“bullsandwomen。“Ineverhadsousefulamanintravelling，asheexcelledattentpitchingandarrangingtheluggageonpack-animals，andtooktheleadineverything；inadditiontowhichheshowedagreatinterestininterpreting，whichisararequalityinadragoman。
WeselectedaroaduponhighergroundforourreturntoLefkosia，andthusavoidedthewatercourseswhichhadcausedsomuchvexationanddelayuponourformerjourney。Thefirstnight\'shaltwasatthelongstonebridgeacrossthePediasriver，abouttwentymilesfromKuklia，oppositethevillageofKythreaatfourmilesdistance——thiswasonlyconstructedeightyearsago，anditwasalreadyrenderedimpassablebytheoverflowofthetorrent，whichhadcarriedawayaconsiderableportion。Onthefollowingmorningwearrivedatthecapital，andwereoncemorehospitablyreceivedbySirGarnetandLadyWolseley。
CHAPTERVII。
KYRENIAANDTHENORTHCOAST。
Thechangefromcamp-lifetotheluxuryofGovernmentHouse，withthecharmofthesocietyofSirGarnetandLadyWolseleyandofficersofthestaff，wasamostagreeableinterludeintheusuallymonotonousjourneythroughCyprus。Theviewfromtheverandahhadchanged，andwascertainlynotcharming，asthefewgreentintsthathadlookedhopefulonourformervisithadturnedtobrown；butthehousewithinmorethancompensatedforthecheerlessnessoftheexteriorlandscape。ApicnicexcursiontothecastleofSt。Hilarionhadbeenarrangedforthe29thinstantbyColonelGreaves，C。B。，chiefofthestaff，whokindlyincludedusintheinvitation。Thispointwasseldomvisited，asitwassituated3240feetabovetheseauponthesky-lineofthecragsaboveKyrenia，andtheridethereandbackcoveredadistanceofaboutthirtymilesfromLefkosia。TheenergyofEnglishladiesratherastonishesthepeopleofthiscountry，whereinertiaisconsideredtobehappiness，andalthoughouranimalswereorderedtobesaddledpunctuallyat6A。M。theownerinLefkosiawasscepticalastoouractualstartatsoearlyanhour；thereforemuchtimewaslostonthemorninginquestioninsendingmessengersvainlytoandfroforthemissingmuleandpony；and8A。M。
arrivedbeforetheirappearance。Thepartyhadstartedtwohoursearlier。ColonelWhite，1stRoyalScots，whowasthechiefcommissioneratLefkosia，hadkindlywaitedtoaccompanyus。AsSt。HilarionwasonlyashortdistancetotheleftoftheKyreniaroad，Ihaddeterminednottoreturn，buttosendthecamelsandluggageondirect。Weleftallunnecessaryluggagelockedupwithinthevans，whichSirGarnetWolseleykindlypermittedustoleaveathead-quarters。WetookleaveofourgoodandbigfriendGeorgiandhissharpcompanionTheodori，whoreturnedtoDali，whereGeorgiwouldmeettheonlyVenusthatIhaveseeninCyprus，hiswife；buteventhatprettyVenuswasruinedbyhighbootsandbaggytrousers。
CrossingthedrybedofthePediasbelowtheGovernmentHouse，westruckalineovertheopenandwitheredplaintoadirectroutetoKyrenia。AtadistanceofaboutfivemilesfromLefkosia，thebroadandwell-troddenroadbecamelostinavarietyofindependentpaths，whichatlengthconvergedintoonenarrowroutethatascendedacuriousformationofwater-washedandutterlydenudedhills，composedofsandstone，claystone，andpeculiardepositsofsedimentaryrock，whichinplacesresembledanartificialpavement。Inmanyplacesthestratawerevertical，exhibitingtheconfusionthathadbeencreatedbytheupheaval。Havingpassedthroughasuccessionofupsanddownsforaboutthreemiles，sometimeswindingthroughnarrowgorgeswherethesoilwascoveredwithanefflorescenceofsalt，atotherplacesclamberingoverlooserocksandenteringnarrowglens，wearrivedinaplainatthefootoftheboldandbluffrangeoftheCarpasmountains。Thepathledtoavillagealmostconcealedamongstdwarf-cypressandpines，ataspotwheretheascentcommencedtoadeepgorgeformingagapbetweentheheightsuponeitherside，throughwhichtheroadwasbeingrenderedaccessibleforwheeledconveyancestoKyrenia。
WehadquittedtheMessariaanditsmisery；thankHeaven，weoncemorelookedupongreentrees，andmagnificentcliffsofcompactgreylimestonetintedwithvariouscoloursaccordingtothepresenceofmetallicsubstances，insteadofwearyingtheeyeswiththedepressingbrownofawitheredsurface。Theroadwasimprovingunderthehandsofseveralworkingparties，andtheanimalssteppedalongatacheerfulpace。Onthelefthandwereexceedinglysteepslopes，ascendingforseveralhundredyardstothebaseofcliffs，whichroseinmanyplacesalmostperpendiculartotheheightofmorethan2000feetabovethesea。
Uponourrightweskirtedadeepravine，thebottomandsidesofwhichwerecompletelycoveredwithmasticshrubs，andmyrtles。Abovethisgorgethecliffsroseinimposinggrandeurtoabout3000feet，thecleftsbeingfilledwithevergreens；andinsomeunapproachableheightswhichmanhadnotinvadedthePinusmaritimaornamentedthegreycragswithitsfoliageofpalegreen。
WeshouldhaveturnedofftothelefttowardsSt。Hilarion，but，withoutaguide，weovershotthepath，andhavingriddenaboutthreemilesthroughthegorge，alwaysascending，wesuddenlyburstuponthemagnificentviewofthenorthernside。Atthismomentafewheavydropsofrainfellfrominkycloudswhichhadbeengatheringamongthemountains，andIthoughtitadvisabletoforegotheexcursiontoSt。
Hilarion，andtopushontowardsKyrenia，threemilesdistant，thoughapparentlyalmostatourfeet。
Thedarkcloudsaboveusaddedtothebeautyofthescenery。Welookeddownuponthebluesea，andthesnow-coveredmountainsofCaramaniainthenortherndistance，withthebeautifulforegroundofperpendiculargreencliffsuponourright，uptonearly3000feet，andtheabruptmountainsidesupontheleft，whichformedtheentrancetothegorge。
Thenarrowstripofthreemilesbetweentheseamarginandthepointuponwhichwestoodwasagreenforestofcaroub-trees，almosttothewater\'sedge。Thetown，anditsstrikingfeaturetheVenetianfort，stoodoutinclearreliefagainstthebackgroundofthesea。Totherightandleft，fartherthantheeyecouldreach，weretreesofcaroubs，variedbyalmonds，mulberries，andoccasionaldate-palms，interspersedwithhighlyirrigatedfieldsofemeraldgreen。ThebeautifuloldmonasteryofBellapais，erectedbytheTemplars，althoughinrealityhalfruined，appearedfromthisdistancelikesomenobleancestralmansion，surroundedbyallthatcouldmakealandscapeperfect：trees，water，mountains，precipices；abovewhichtoweredthecastleofBuffaventouponthecraggysky-line；whiletotheleft，cuttingwithkeenedgesthedarkcloudthathoveredoverit，werethewallsandtowersofSt。Hilarion；wherebythistimeweshouldhavebeeneatingluncheonwithacharmingparty。Pit-patcametheheavydrops；andstilldrinkinginthemagnificentview，wedescendedthestonyandsteeppathtowardsKyrenia。Whenwearrivednearthebase，afteradescentofaboutamileandthree-quarters，aperfectlystraightroadofagoodwidthleddirecttoKyrenia，throughaforestoftheshadyandevergreencaroub-trees。Bythistimetheshowerhadclearedaway，andonlyafewlightcloudshoveredoverthehighpointofSt。Hilarion，andhavinghadnothingtoeat，webegantowishforballoonstomakeadirectascenttothewell-providedpartyontheheightsaboveus，whowereenjoyingthehospitalityofColonelGreaves。Wecomfortedourselveswiththeideathatwehadatalleventsbeenwiseinforegoingpleasurewhenuponthemarch，asthecamelshadbeenorderedtostartfromLefkosia，anditwouldbeadvisablethatthecampshouldbearrangedwithoutdelay。WeaccordinglydismountedabouthalfamilefromKyrenia，andhavingtiedtheanimalsbeneathawide-spreadingcaroub，weselectedanothertree，beneathwhichwesattoawaitthearrivalofthecamelsandservants；inthemeantimeIsentthemuleteerintothetowntobuyussomethingtoeat。Afteraboutanhourhereturned，withabottleofCommandoriawine，abunchofrawonions，asmallgoat\'s-milkcheese，aloafofbrownnativebread，andafewcigarettes，whichthegood，thoughtfulfellowhadmadehimselfformyownprivateenjoyment。Manyyearsofmylifehavebeenpassedinpicnicking，andwhenreallyhungry，itisastonishinghowvulgardietisappreciated；weregrettedthelossofourfriends，butweneverthelessenjoyedthesimplefare，andhavinglookedatourwatches，wespeculatedupontheprobablearrivalofthecamelsandluggage，andwaitedpatientlybeneaththetree。
Thereisalimittoallendurance，andwhen5P。M。arrivedwithoutasignofcamels，wecametotheconclusionthatsomethinghadgonewrong。
ItwasinvainthatIhadsearchedthepasswithmybinocular；onlythewhitethreadbetweenthegreenshrubsappeared，thatdenotedthepath；
andthiswasdesolate。
AtlengthIobservedsomethingmovingonthecrestofthepass：mulesorhorses！thenaparasol！somebodywascoming；mostlikelyreturningtoKyreniafromthepicnic？Presentlyamule，saddledbutwithoutarider，camegallopingdowntheroad。Thiswestopped，andsecured；itlookedlikeapracticalresultofagoodluncheonandchampagnecup。ShortlyafterthisfirstappearanceadismountedEnglishservantcamewalkingdowntheroadafterhismule，whichhewashappytorecoverfromourhands。Hehadneitherseennorheardanythingofourcamelsorpeople，buthismaster，thechiefcommissionerofKyrenia(Dr。Holbeach，60thRifles)，wasapproaching，togetherwithMr。andMrs。Stevenson，allofwhomwerereturningfromSt。Hilarion。Atlengththedistantparasoldrewnearer，andbydegreeswecoulddistinguishthepartyastheyemergedfromthepassuponthebroadstraightroad。
AstherearenohighwaymeninCyprus，Ihadnohesitationinwalkingsuddenlyoutofthegreenwoodupontheroad-sideandinterceptingthemastheyarrivedinfrontofourposition；Iexplainedthatwewere“waifsandstrays“uponthewideworldofCypruswithoutbaggageorservants，or，infact，whatShakespearecalls“sanseverything。“Mr。
Holbeachwithmuchkindnessandhospitalitycapturedusasvagrants，andinsisteduponescortingustohishouse。Mrs。StevensonwasgoodenoughtosupplyLadyBakerwithafewlittlenecessariesforthenight，andMr。Holbeach，havingthoughtfullymadeupanimpromptulittledinner-partyofallnamed，wepassedamostpleasantevening，althoughI
fearthatoursuddeninvasionofhisbachelor\'squartersmusthavecausedhimsomeinconvenience。
Onthefollowingmorning，weenjoyedthesplendidviewfromthecoveredbalconyatthebackofMr。Holbeach\'shouse，whichshowedtherichestforegroundinCyprusinthedarkgreenofcaroub-forestandgardensoffruit-treesintermingledwithplotsofbarleyalreadyintheear。Thisrichfrontwasbackedbythewallofdarklimestonecliffstwomilesdistant，3000feetelevation，withthecastlesofBuffaventoandSt。
Hilarionperchedleftandrightonthegiddysummitsofthehighestcrags，whichintheclearatmosphereapparentlyoverhungourposition。
Wethenbreakfasted，tookleaveofourhospitablehost，androdebacktoLefkosiatoinquireintothecauseofthedelay。
Onarrivalwefoundastringofmulesjuststarting，asthecamelsthathadbeenengagedyesterdayhadneverappeared。Isentofftheservantsandanimals，withorderstopitchthetentuponthesiteoftheoldcampofthe42ndHighlanders，withinamileofKyrenia；wethenoncemoreencroacheduponthekindnessofSirGarnetandLadyWolseleyforthenight。OnthefollowingmorningwerodetoKyrenia，sixteenmiles，andfoundtentspitchedinadelightfulsituation，andthecampsweptandarrangedinperfectorder。Therecouldnothavebeenabettersiteforamilitarycamp，asthegroundwasfirmandslopedgraduallytowardsthesea，abovewhichtheelevationmayhavebeenabout120feet。Thebeautifulcaroub-treesaffordedadenseshadeforindividualtentsandforunlimitednumbersofmen。Thegroundhadbeenwelldrained，andeverycarehadbeentakentoensurethehealthofthetroops；butinspiteofallsanitaryarrangementstheyhadsufferedseverelyfromfever，bywhich，althoughonlyfourhadactuallysuccumbed，andnowlayinthelonelylittlecemeteryclosetoourtents，theregimenthadbeendemoralised，andwaswithdrawnfromthislonelypositioncompletelyfever-smitten。Imadecloseinquiriesamongthenatives，andallagreedthatthepastyear，havingbeenunusuallywet，hadbeenexceptionallyunhealthy，andtheinhabitantshadsufferedalmosttothesamedegreeastheEuropeans。Itwaspainfullyclearthatwhentherainfallwassufficientlyplentifultoproduceabundantharvestsitatthesametimeensuredacropoffevers。
WeremainedtendaysinourKyreniacamp，andwewerebothsorrytoleave，astheneighbourhoodisexceedinglybeautifulandfullofinterest；thereiscertainlynoportionofCyprusthatcanequalitinthepicturesque，orintheextremerichnessofgenuineforest-treesandfoliage。
Thetownissmallandmostirregular：anoldTurkishgraveyardformsaboundaryupontheoutskirtsoppositethefort，preciselysimilarinpositiontothatofFamagousta。Within300pacesofthispointaretheprincipalhouses，mostlywellbuiltofstoneandsurroundedbyhigh-walledgardensfruitfulinoranges，lemons，almonds，apricots，figs，andthefruitscommonlyknownthroughouttheisland。Thehousesaregenerallyonestoryabovetheground-floor，withawidebalconythatformsanopenfacetothefirst-flooroffiveorsixarches，whichsupporttheroofuponthatside。Thisisaconvenientplanfortheclimate，asitadmitsfreshairtoalltheroomswhichopenintothebalcony；infactitisanopenlandingtothestaircase。Afewdate-palmsornamentthegardens，thepresenceofthesegracefultreesbeingasuresignofthepreponderanceofTurksinthepopulation。
ThefortofKyreniaisagreatcuriosity，asitformsaportionoftheharbour，beingsituatedlikethenoseinapairofspectacles，thebasinsbeingtheeyesrightandleft。Theactualdefencesareintact，althoughtheinneraccommodationforbarracks，magazines，&c。，&c。，requiregreatrepairsandalteration。Thewallsareofsolidsquaredmasonry，thestonesjointedwiththeusualimperishablecement，andrisetothegreatperpendicularheightofupwardsofseventyfeetsheerfromthebottomofthefosse。Thereisonlyoneentrance，byanarrowbridgeuponarches，acrosstheextremelywideanddeepditch，terminatingnearthegatewaybyadrawbridge，whichadmitsanentryinthefaceoftheimmensewall，withportcullisandiron-boundhingedgate。Therampartsoverlookingthetownandharbouronthewestfaceare147yardsinlength，exclusiveofthetower，andtheembrasuresofsolidmasonrymeasuredattheanglearegenerallytwenty-fourfeetinthickness。Thefortisnearlysquare，andisflankedateachcornerbyacirculartowerwhichwouldcompletelyenfiladetheditchbyseveraltiersofguns。Thispowerfulfortressiswashedbytheseaupontwosides(thenorthandeast)，andthefoundationsuponthenativerockareprotectedfromtheactionofthewavesbyreefsandhugefragmentsofnaturaldetachedmasseswhichcharacterisethisportionofthecoast。AsIstoodupontheparapetfacingnorthIobtainedanadmirableviewoftheoriginalharbourstomyleftandright，andalthoughtheycouldneverhaveadmittedlargevessels，IwasstruckbythegreatimportanceofthissoleplaceofrefugeuponthenortherncoastofCyprus，whichinformertimeshadsuggestedsuchaformidablearrangementfordefence。ThefortwasconstructedbytheVenetians，buttherearefallenmassesofmucholderworksthatnowlieatthefootofthesea-face，andaddtothenaturalreefsindefendingthefoundationsfromthebreakingwater。
ThestyleofthisfortresssuggestsadateanteriortoFamagousta，asitisdevoidofcavaliersanddependsforitsdefenceuponthesimpleflankingfireofthefourtowersandthegreatheightandthicknessofthewalls。Itissuppliedwithfreshwaterbyanaqueduct，andisprovidedwithimmensereservoirsofmasonrytocontainasufficientquantityduringaprolongedsiege，whentheouteraqueductmightbedestroyedbytheenemy。Thereareextensivesubterraneancavesanddungeons，butthesehavenotyetbeenexplored。AbovethisfineoldspecimenofVenetianfortifications，uponthehighplatformofthetowerfacingtheharbour，wasaflag-staff，uponwhichasmallbundleofragsflutteredinthestrongwind，asthoughthey，hadbeenarrangedtofrightenthejackdawsfrombuildingwithinthecrevicesofmasonry。ItappearedthatthismiserableremnantoftatteredbuntinghadoncerepresentedaBritishUnionJack！andthecolourless，poverty-strickenthingflappedandcrackedasittoreitselfintothefinestthreadsofmiseryinthegale，tootrulyrepresentingtheresultofourambiguouspositionaccordingtothetermsoftheCyprianoccupation。IfeltashamedthatsuchanexhibitionshouldmeettheeyeofanyforeignshipuponenteringtheharbourofKyrenia，andIwasinformed“thatitwastheonlyflagthatwaspossessedbytheauthorities。“AsalltherevenueoftheislandwashandedovertothePorteexceptingabagatelleinsufficientfortherequirementsofthecountry，thereallyoverworkedandenergeticservantsoftheCrownwereabsolutelyobligedtopractiseamostrigideconomy，commencingwiththeirownsalaries，equallyvexatioustothemselvesandunworthyofourhighposition。
ThecuriouscollectionofoldcannonhadallbeenremovedbytheTurks，butoneironpieceremained，which，beingalmostworthlessasmetal，hadbeenleftbehindwhenthebronzegunshadbeenshippedtoConstantinople。Thiswasagreatcuriosity，asitsomewhatresembledahand-bellaboutfivefeetinlength；thebellwhichformedthemouthtoreceivetheballwasonlytwofeetinlength，althoughthemuzzlewassufficientlywidetoadmitthestoneprojectileofnineteeninchesdiameter。Theportionwhichresembledthehandleofabellwasthecontinuationwhichformedthenarrowchamberforthepowder；thiswasaboutthreefeetlongandeightinchesthick*。(*Thesemeasurementsarefrommemory，exceptingthediameterofmuzzle，whichItookonthespot。)Therewerenotrunnionstothissingularoldgun，butitmayhavebeenlashedtosomeleverwhichcouldberaisedordepressed，anditwasevidentlyintendedforfiringintoshippingfromthefortwalls，tocommandtheharbouratashortrange。Ithadbeencastwithconcentricrings，whichIexaminedcarefully，asatfirstIimaginedtheyhadbeenwrought-ironshrunkontothecasting：thiswasnotthecase，buttheextrathicknessofmetalattheringsaddedsufficientstrength。Thelargestoneshot，formedofapeculiarlyhardmetamorphousrock(aconglomerateofmatterthathadbeenfusedbyheat)，weretobeseeninvariouspositionswithinthefortress。Afewwereontheparapetabovethedrawbridge，asthoughpreparedforrollingoveruponanassaultingparty。IfoundthisqualityofrockuponthemountainswithintwomilesofKyrenia。
Therewereevidentlytwoharbours，whichincludedthesmallbayuponeithersideofthepresentfort；thatuponthewestwasthemostimportant，asthedepthofwaterisgreater，anditshowsevidentsignsofhavingreceivedpeculiarattention。Theremainsoftheancientmolesstillexist，andaffordconsiderableprotection；buttheseahasbrokenthroughinseveralplacesandwashedawaytheuppertiersofstones。
Thesemoleswerecarefullyconstructedbylayingthemasonryuponafoundationofhydrauliccement，whichconnectedthevariousnaturalrocks；thelayerofcementstillexists，whilethesquaredblocksoftheoriginalsurfacemaybeseenatthebottom，wheretheyhavebeendepositedbythewaves。Likealldefensiveworksinhistoricalcountries，thoseofKyreniahaveundergonecontinualchangesandmodifications，asfromtimetotimealterationsmayhavebeensuggestedbysuccessfulattacks。Inaruinedtowerwhich，completelyisolatedwithinthesea，commandedtheentranceoftheharbouronthewest，I
observedthatanancientcolumnofwhitemarblefromsomeoldbuildinghasbeenusedasakeytopreventthelargesquaredstonesfromyieldingtotheconstantvibrationcausedbythebreakingwaves。Eachtierofstoneshasbeencutatthecentraledgetoformahalf-circlewheretheedgesoftheadjoiningblockswereconnected；thosehavebeensimilarlyshapedtoproduceacompletecirclewhenfacedtogether。Thesquaredstonesintheloweranduppertiershavebeenperforatedinacircle，sothatwhenseveralcoursesofmasonrywerecompleted，theholerepresentedashaftofabouttwelveinchesdiameter，sunkfromtoptobottom；themarblecolumnhasbeeninsertedfromthetop，andhastiedeachcourseeffectivelytogether；thehavococcasionedinthistowerofsolidsquaredblocksistheworkofman；thestoneshaveuntilrecentlybeenremovedforthepurposesofbuilding。
Kyreniacouldneverhavebeenaperfectlysafeharbourinallweathers，astheentranceisopentothenorth。Thereisaslightturntotheeast，whichmighthaveprotectedafewsmallvesselsduringanortherlygale，butthisportionisnowsiltedup，anditshouldbeclearedbydredging。Thehousesriseabovetheharbourfromthewater\'sedgetothecliffs，formingahorseshoeshape。Mr。Holbeachhadjustcompletedasmallquayofmasonry，andaverymoderateoutlaywouldrestoretheancientmoleandrenderKyreniaanimportantportforthetradingvesselsofSyriaandAsiaMinor。Whenagoodcarriage-roadshallbecompletedtothecapital，Lefkosia，onlysixteenmilesdistant，thevalueofKyreniaasacommercialharbourwillbemuchenhanced。TherearealsoimportanttownswithaconsiderablepopulationwithineightorninemilesofKyreniaonthewest：CaravaandLapithaswouldoffermarketsforagreatextensionoftrade，andMorphuwouldbebroughtwithinthesamecommercialcircle。ThereisapeculiaradvantagethroughouttheportsofCyprusinthepresenceofstonequarriesuponthespotwherethematerialisrequired；thisisspeciallymarkedatKyrenia，wherethesolidrock，withitstombs，cave-dwellings，andancientquarries，isontheactualbordersofthesea，withinafewyardsoftheexistingharbour。Therewouldbenogreatdifficultyinconvertingthesequarriesintoadock，shouldademandforstonebesufficienttorepaytheoutlayforcuttingthesupply，accordingtotheexamplealreadyexhibitedandlefttousbytheancients。
ThequarriesofKyreniaformthechiefcuriosityofthelocality。TherockisthesedimentarylimestonemixedwithaproportionofsandthatisthecharacteristicgeologicalfeaturearoundthecoastofCyprus；butinthesequarriesthestoneisperfectlysolidandfreefromfissures，whichenablesthemasontoobtainblocksofanysize。FromprehistorictimestherockofKyrenia，whichrisesaboutfortyfeetabovethesea-level，hasbeenworkedoutuponthemostcarefulmethod；everyblockhasbeencutfromtheparentmassbymeasurement，andnobrokenedgeshavebeenpermittedtodestroythesymmetryoftheadjoiningstone。Theworkwascommencedfromthetop，orsurfaceoftherock，andasmoothclifffacehasbeenproducedasthefirstoperation；uponcompletionthesurfacehasbeenlinedoutparallelwiththeperpendicularface，andtheblockshavebeencarefullychiselledandremovedbywedgesdrivenhorizontallyfrombeneath。Inthismannertherockhasbeenworkeduntilitresembledaflightofsteps，whichremaininmanyplacesperfecttothepresenthour。Theentirefortressandtownhavebeenconstructedfromthesequarries，andtherecanbenodoubtthatwhenKyreniawasoriginallyfoundedbytheDoriancolonistsunderCepheusandPraxanderthestoneswereobtainedfromtheexistingsite。Thereisaconsiderabledifferenceinthequalityoftherock，whichhasbeenremarkedbytheoriginalbuilders，asapassagehasbeencutthroughthefirstclifffacenearesttothetown，andthedesiredlevelforwheeledconveyanceshavingbeenobtained，theworkmenhavediscoveredasuperiorstoneastheyproceededintothebowelsofthequarry。Theyhaveaccordinglyneglectedmuchofthenearerportion，andhaveexcavatedalargesquare，alwayspushingforwardtowardsthewest，whichisnowterminatedbyaworkedperpendicularfaceandaseriesofstepsincomplete，preciselyasitremainedwhenthelastchiselrelinquishedthelabour。
ThisqualityofrockinallpartsofCyprusiscavernous，andthenaturalcaveshavesuggestedtotheancientsanartificialextensionbothfordwellingsandforcemeteries。Therockiseasilyworkedbythemason\'spick，andnearthetownIobservedanoldfort-ditchwhichhadbeenoriginallyexcavatedforthedoubleobjectofquarryingbuildingstoneatthesametimethatitservedthepurposeofdefence。Therewouldbenogreatdifficultyinconnectingtheancientquarrywiththeharbourbycuttingacanalthroughthesoftrockandextendingthedepthoftheancientexcavations。Itiswellknowntoallquarrymenthatthestoneshouldbeplacedinabuildingaccordingtothepositioninwhichitlaywhenformingtheoriginalrock。WithinthefortressofKyreniatherearemanyexamplesofneglect，wherethemasonshaveeitherinvertedorplacedthestonessideways，inwhichcasetheactionoftheweatherhascompletelyhoney-combedandreducedthematerialtoanappearanceofdecayedcoral。IobservedinstancesofsimilarneglectwiththesameresultsinportionsofthefortressofFamagousta。
