Itwasadifficultclimbtothepathlesscragsatnight，butthelightwasglimmeringlike“thestarthatthewisemensawintheeast，“andthoughoccasionallylostatintervals，itguidedthepartyontheirway。
Uponarrivalatthecave，therewasnoinhabitant。AlampburntbeforeasmalleffigyoftheVirginMarysuspendedagainstthewallofrock，butnotraceofhumanfootorhandcouldbediscovered。
Suchisthelegend；andtheinexplicablemysterycausedmuchexcitementandagitationinthemindsoftheChurchauthorities。Atlengthitwasdeterminedthat，astheapparitionofthelightwasmiraculous，itwasincumbentuponthepeopletoerectamonasteryuponthesiteoftheappearance，contiguoustothenowsacredcave。
Thiswasanextremedifficulty，astheinclinationformedanangleofabout60degrees；andthemountainwashardgneissthatcouldonlyhavebeenscarpedbyexpensiveblasting。However，itwashopedthatablessingwouldattendthegoodwork；therefore，inspiteofallobstacles，itwascommenced，andmasonswereengagedfromthevillageofPhynitoarrangeafoundation。
Therewasnowaternearerthanthetorrentinthedeephollowhalfamilebelow，thereforeextremelabourwasrequiredinmixingthemortarforthewalls；thejarsinwhichthenecessarywaterwasconveyeduponmen\'sshouldersuptheprecipitousrocksappearedtobeinfluencedbysomeadverse，butunseen，agency，astheyconstantlyslippedfromtheirholdandbroke。Duringthenighttheworkwhichthemasonshadaccomplishedinthedayfelldown，andwasdiscoveredeverymorningasaheapofruin；thebuildingcouldnotproceed。InthisperplexitytheChurchwasrelievedbyasupernaturalinterposition。Earlyonemorningajarofpurewaterwasdiscoveredinthesharpangleofthehollowbetweenthehills，exactlybelowtherachkooba，whereIamnowwriting。
Itwasevidenttothepriestlymindthatanangelhadplacedthisjarofwatertodenotethespotwheresomehiddenspringmightbedeveloped，whichwouldbeafavourablesiteforthenewmonastery。Theydug，andshortlydiscoveredtheexpectedsource。
Itwasthereforeresolvedthatinsteadoferectingthemonasteryclosetotheeffigyinthecave，wherebadluckhadhithertoattendedtheirefforts，itwouldbemoreadvisabletocommencethebuildinguponafavourablespot，wherealevelalreadyexisted，intheanglebetweentwomountainslopeswithinafewyardsofthespring；itwouldbeeasiertoconveythesmalleffigytothenewbuildingthantoerectthemonasteryclosetotheeffigy。Accordinglytheworkwascommenced：thewallsnolongerfellduringthenight，andtheunseenagencywasevidentlypropitious。
Uponcompletionofthemonasterytheoriginaleffigywasenshrined，andTrooditissabecamefamousasaholysite。Yearspassedaway，andthereputationoftheestablishmentwasenhancedbythearrivalofaladyofhighpositionfromBeyrout，togetherwithherhusband，aspilgrimstothenowcelebratedmountaincave。Theladywaschildless，andhavingpresentedahandsomeoffering，andkissedtherockentranceofthecave，inadditiontotheeffigywithinthemonastery，shewaitedintheneighbourhoodforacertainnumberofmonths，attheexpirationofwhichshegavebirthtoason。Themonksclaimedthisboyastheirlawfulprize，andhewasbroughtupasapriest；butthereissomediscrepancyintheaccountswhichIcouldnotwellunderstand，asitappearsthathisparentsinsisteduponhisrestoration，andthatanangelicinterpositionatlengthpreventedlitigation。Itmaybewellimaginedthattheresultofthelady\'spilgrimagespreadfarandwide；thereputationofthemonasteryreacheditszenith，andalltheunfruitfulwomenflockedtotheshrinetokissthecaveandthepictureoftheVirginwithinthechurch；atthesametimeofferingacertainsumforthebenefitoftheestablishment。Thefrictionofconstantandoft-repeatedkissingatlengthbegantotelluponthesacredeffigy，anditbecamealmostwornout；itwasthereforedeterminedthatabeautifulsilver-giltVirginandChildshouldbesuppliedbyafirst-rateartistwhichshouldcovertheoriginalrelicwithin。ThiswasremarkablywellexecutedbyCornaro，andasmallaperturelikeakeyholeofadoorhasbeenleft，whichiscoveredbyaslide；thisismovedupononesidewhenrequired，andenablesthepilgrimtokissthroughtheholeapieceofratherbrown-lookingwood，whichisthepresentexhaustedsurfaceoftheeffigy。
Althoughdecayedbytimeanduse，themiraculouspropertyremainsunchanged。Thiswasexhibitedafewyearsagoinaremarkablemanner，whereachildlessladyhadbecomeoldinbarrenexpectation；butavisittoTrooditissaproducedthedesiredresult，andconferredmuchhappinessupontheoncedespairingwife，whonowbecameamother。Inadditiontoamonetaryoffering，thisladyhadpresentedtheVirginwithahandsomebeltwithmassivesilver-giltbuckles，whichshehadwornduringpregnancy。Thisofferingisnowsuspendedaroundthepresenteffigy，andforasmallconsiderationanyladyapplicantisallowedtofastenitroundherwaist。Theeffectisinfallible，andquiteequalsthatoftherockandsilverVirgin。Thisremarkableinductivepowermayperhapsbesomedayexplainedbyphilosophers，butitisnowexceedinglydangerous，andunfortunateresultshaveoccurred，wheninasuddenimpulseofdevotionyoungmaidenshavekissedtherockentrancetothecave，orimprudentlypressedtheirlipsuponthesacredeffigy。
DuringmysojournatTrooditissanoarrivalsofdespairingwivesoccurred，butintheexhaustedconditionsofthefinancethroughouttheisland，itwouldhavebeentheheightoffollytohavedesiredanincreaseoffamily，andtherebymultiplyexpenses；possiblytheuncertaintyrespectingthepermanenceoftheEnglishoccupationmaydetertheladies，whomaypostponetheirpilgrimagetothemonasteryuntiltheiroffspringshouldbebornwiththerightsofBritishsubjects。
IhavedescribedtheoriginoftheecclesiasticalretreatatTrooditissaasnearlyaspossibleaccordingtotheviva-vocehistoryrelatedbythemonks。Itisimpossibletogaugetheopinionsoftheworld，asindividualsdifferasmuchinnervousstructureandintheologicalcreedsastheydoinpersonalappearance；somemayacceptthemonks\'
beliefimplicitly，whileothersmaysuggestthattheoriginaloccupantofthecavewassomeunknownhermitsecludedfromtheworld，whosesolitarylampburningbeforetheVirginhadattractedtheattentionoftheshepherdsfromthemountainopposite。Theoldmanmayhavefallendownaprecipiceanddied，leavinghislampstillalight；butitwouldbeunfairtointerferewiththeoriginallegend，whichmustremainwiththeusualcloudsanduncertaintiesthatobscurethetalesofcenturies。
About250feetabovethemonasterytheridgeofaspuraffordedalevelspacebeneathsometallpineswhichthrewawelcomeshade，andwouldhavebeenaconvenientcamping-ground。Thisspotwasoccupiedbytheroughestoflog-huts，whichhadbeenerectedbyashepherdashissummerresidencewhenthegoatsshouldbedrivenfromthelowgroundtothemountainpasture。ThismanwasoriginallyaTurk，andformedoneofapeculiarsectknowninCyprusasLinobambaki(linenandcotton)。ThesepeoplearesaidtobeconvertstoChristianity，butinrealitytheyhaveneverbeentroubledwithanyreligiousscruples，andaccordinglyneveraccommodatetheirprinciplestothesocietyoftheirneighbourhood。InaTurkishvillagetheLinobambakiwouldcallhimselfbyaTurkishname，asMahomet，orHassan，&c。，whileinaChristiancommunityhewouldpassasMichaelorGeorgy，orbyotherGreekappellations。Thename“linenandcotton“appliedtothemisexpressiveoftheirlukewarmnessandtime-serving，theirreligiousprofessionsfluctuatingaccordingtothedictatesnotofconscience，butpersonalinterest。Itissupposedthatabout1500ofthesepeopleexistinvariouspartsofCyprus；theyarebaptisedintheGreekChurch，andcanthusescapeconscriptionformilitaryserviceaccordingtoTurkishlaw。ThegoatherduponourmountainhadbeenaTurkishservant(shepherd)inaGreekfamily，andhadsucceededingainingtheheartofhismaster\'sdaughter，whomhewaspermittedtomarryaftermanydifficulties。Thiswomanmusthavebeenverybeautifulwhenyoung，as，inspiteofhardworkandexposure，shewashandsomeatforty，withapairofeyesthatinyouthmighthavebeenmoreattractivethanthemysteriouslightinthehermit\'scave。Itisoneoftheblessingsoffineeyesthattheyarealmostcertaintodescendtothechildren。Propertymayvanish，litigationmaydestroythesubstanceofaninheritance；buttheeyes，large，soft，andgentle，whichcanoccasionallystartleyoubytheirpowerandsubdueyoubyatear，arethechildren\'sentailthatnothingcandisestablish。Evenwhentimehastrampleduponcomplexion，theeyesofbeautylasttilldeath。
ThechildrenofthisLinobambakiandhishandsomewifewereseven——twoboysofaboutnineteenandseventeen，andfivegirlsfromfourteentooneandahalf——allofwhomhadtheeyesofthemotherdevelopedmostfavourably。Icannotwelldescribeeveryindividualofafamily：therewerethetwohandsomeshepherdyouthswhowouldhavemadelevelgroundofmountainsteeps，throughtheirpowerandactivity。
“RightupBenLomondcouldhepress，Andnotasobhistoilconfess。“
TheseyoungfellowsmatchedthegoatsinclamberinguptherocksandfollowingtheirwaywardflocksthroughoutthesummitsoftheTroodosrange；andtheirsistersthelittleshepherdesseswereintheirwayequallysurprising，inhuntingrunawaygoatsfromthedeepestchasmtothesharpestmountain-peak。
Ihardlyknowwhowasourgreatestfavourite。Therewas“Katterina“
(aboutfourteen)toooldtomakeapetof，butagentle-characteredgirl，alwayswillingtopleaseandneveroutoftemper，andeveninthebig，hateful，beauty-destroying，highhob-nailedbootsshecouldrunupthemountainsoilandclamberlikeamonkey。Thencame，Ibelieve，ourbestfavourite，thebright，large-eyed，sparklingchild“Vathoo，“whowastherealbeautyofthefamily，abouttenyearsold；shewasfulloflifeandvigour，aperfectgoatuponthemountains，withamostlovelyfacethatwouldhavecharmedMurilloasasubject，withanextremeperfectionoffeatures，abronzedcomplexion，buthardlythesoftexpressionrequiredforasacredpicture；infactVathoowasaperfectlittlegipsybeauty，withperhapsmoredevilthanangelinherimpulsivecharacter。
Thencametherealgentlelittlefacewithgazelle-likeeyes，“Baraksu，“
abouteightyearsold：followedbyaminimumshepherdess，“Athena，“ofnearlyfiveyearsold，whoclimbedtherocks，shouted，andthrewstonesatherrefractoryflock，asthoughanexperiencedgoatherdofforty。Theyoungestwasjustabletostand；withapairofthebiggestblackeyes，andanaturalinstinctforgorgingitselfwithunripefruitsandhardnuts，which，addedtoitsmaternalsustenancethatitwasstillenjoying，provedthemill-likecharacterofitsinfantinedigestion。FortwomonthswethoughtthisyoungHerculeswasapromisingboy，untilbyanaccidentwediscovereditwasa“younglady“Linobambaki！WhenwearrivedatTrooditissathesechildrenwereinragsandfilth，butunderthetutelageofmywifetheyquicklychanged，andthenever-failingfountain，assistedbyacakeofsoapsuppliedoccasionally，effectedamarkedimprovementinallcomplexions。
Theywereremarkablywell-manneredafterthefirstnaturalshynesshadwornaway，andformedacontrasttochildrenofalowclassinEnglandinnevermisbehavingwhenintimate。Alltheselittlecreatureswereemployedincleaningandimprovingtheplace；eventheminuteAthenamightbeseencarryingagreatstoneuponhersmallshoulder，addinghermitetothework，andrubbingthegalledspotasshethrewdownherload。Thebrightthreepennypieceswereingreatfavour，andthechildreninvariablyhastenedtotheirmotherwiththeirearningsatthecloseoftheafternoon。Whenthecampandmonasterysurroundingswereinperfectordertherewasnolongeranyremunerativeemploymentforthefamily，excepttheuncertainandoccasionalworkofcollectingwildflowersforthetentandtable。ThemyrtlesbloomedinearlyJuly，andinthedeepravinebythewaterfalltheoleanderswerethenstillinblossom。Severalplantswhichwerestrangetomewereaddedtothecollection；thedaysweregenerallypassedbythechildreninmindingthenumerousgoatsuntiltheevening，wheneachchildbroughtsomesimpleofferingofflowers。Weboughtsheepfromthelowcountryataboutsixorsevenshillingseach，andVathoowasthespecialshepherdessofoursmallflock，forwhichshewasresponsible；theywereinvariablydrivenoutat4A。M。andbroughthomeat8toavoidthesun，andagaintakenoutfrom4P。M。till7。
InthissimplemannerwepassedourtimeatTrooditissa；myamusementsweremysmallgarden，writinganaccountofCyprus，andstrollingoverthemountains：thelatteroccupationbeingmostunprofitable，asI
destroyedallmybootsuponthehorriblesurfaceofloosestones，inwhichtherewaslittlegeologicalinterest，astheywereallgneissandsyenite，crackedandstarredduringaprocessofsubaqueancooling。Thedeplorableaspectoftheotherwisebeautifulmountainswasoccasionedbythewholesaleandwilfuldestructionofpine-trees，whichistheCypriote\'sbanefulcharacteristic，andasthisisoneofthemostimportantsubjectsinthemodernhistoryoftheisland，Ishalldevotethefollowingspecialchapterentirelytothequestionof“WoodsandForests。“
CHAPTERXIII。
WOODSANDFORESTS。
TheclimateofCyprusisextremeintemperatureduringthemonthsofJune，July，August，anduntilthecloseofSeptember；throughoutthegreaterportionoftheislandthetreelesssurfaceabsorbsthesun\'srays，andduringthenightradiatestheheatthusobtained，whichraisesthethermometerto90degreesbeforesunrise：whileatnoonitoccasionallymarks100degreesbeneaththeshade。Atreelesscountrymusteitherbeextremelyhotorcold，accordingtothelatitude；andwithoutacertainproportionofforesttherewillbeanabsenceofequilibriumintemperature。Mostpersonswillhaveobservedtheeffectofheatradiationfromrocks，orevenfromthewallsofabuildingthathavebeenexposedtoasummer\'ssunduringthelongday。AtaboutsixP。M。，whentheairiscool，thesun-heatstoredbyabsorptionescapesfromitsimprisonment，andthermometerswouldexhibitadifferenceofmanydegreesifplacedattwofeetfromtheground，andatfifty；therocksandearthhavebeenheatedlikeanoven。Treeswillaffectthesurfaceofthesoilinthesamemannerthatanumbrellaprotectsanindividualfromthesurf，anduponloftymountainstheyexerciseamarkedinfluenceupontherainfall。Shouldthesummitsbenaked，therocksbecomeheatedtoahighdegree，andshouldcloudspassoverhead，thevapourwouldnotcondense，but，onthecontrary，itmightdisperseuponcontactwiththeheatedsurface。Ifthesummitswereclothedwithforests，therocksandsoil，beingshadedfromthesun，wouldremaincool，andthelowtemperatureofearthandfoliagewouldcondensethevapourandproducerain。Itiswellknownthattreesexertadirectinfluenceuponmeteorologicalphenomena，thereforeshouldforestsbetotallydestroyed，achangemaybeexpectedinthetemperature，attendedbyacorrespondingdecreaseintherainfall。Itisobviousthatshouldacountrybeentirelycoveredwithtreesandjungle，itwillbetoodampandunhealthyfortheoccupationofman；andshoulditbeabsolutelybarrenofforest，itwillpossessaminimumrainfall；thereforeinallcountriesthatareexpectedtodevelopagriculturalresources，thedueproportionsofwoodsandforestsrequirespecialattention。
InancientdaystherecanbenoquestionthatCypruswasrichintimber，andthatthemountainousdistrictswerethicklyclothedtotheirsummitswithvaluablewoodvaryinginspeciesaccordingtoaltitude。AttheriskofrepetitionImustdescribethequalitieswhichnowexist，andwhichwerenodoubtexportedfromtheisland，andbecamewidelyknownandappreciatedintheearlydaysofCyprianprosperity。
Oaks——Thereareseveralvarietiesofoak，butlargepark-liketimberofthisspeciesisexceedinglyscarce，andalthoughmetwithoccasionallyingrandspreadingtreeswithtrunksoflargegirth，theyareonlysufficienttoprovethedestructionthathasbefallentheirrace。Itismostprobablethattheoakwaslargelyexportedforship-building；butasanavailableforest-treeitmaybesaidtohavedisappeared。TheilexisthemostcommonofallwoodsupontheTroodosrangeanduponothermountains，butthenativeshavemadesuchconstantattacksuponthisqualityforthemanufactureofcharcoalthatitisseldommetwithasaforest-tree。Itisextremelyhardy，andthroughcontinualhacking，ithasgrownintodensebusheswhicharegenerallyabouteightfeethigh；
butinveryremotelocalitiesamongthemountainsIhavefounditintheshapeoftimbergrowingtotheheightoffortyfeet。Thereisathirdvarietywithapricklyleafresemblingholly，ofanintenselydarkgreen。
Pines——Ihaveonlymetwiththreevarieties——thePinusmaritima，Pinuslaricio，andthestonepine。Thelatterisveryrare，butmaybeseenatPlatraes。Thenativesinvariablypicktheconesofthisspecieswhengreenforthesakeofthesmallediblenutsaffordedbytheseeds。
ThePinuslaricioisahandsometreewithadarkfoliageandbranchesthatdroopregularlyfromthesummit，wideningtowardsthebase。Itisdifficulttodeterminethemaximumsizethatwouldbeattainedbythisspecies，astheCypriotesseldomallowanytreetoremainuninjured。TheusualsizeoftheLaracioontheTroodosrangeisaboutfiftyfeetinheight，withagirthofsixfeet，butIhavefrequentlyseenspecimensofninefeetingirth，andaboutseventytoeightyfeetinheight。
ThePinusmaritimahasalighterfoliageandthebranchesaremorespreading，butthesizeisaboutthesameastheLaricio。Boththesespeciesarerichintarandturpentine。
Cypress——Therearetwovarieties——thedwarf，whichcoverstheflat-toppedlimestonehillsoftheCarpasdistrict，andthefragrantspecieswhichgrowsupontheheightsofTroodosandallthatrangewhichextendstoPoli-ton-Krysokhus。
Thedwarf-cypressattainsaheightofabouttwentyfeet，andisexceedinglyhardanddurable。Thefragrantspeciesvariesfromthirtytothirty-fivefeet，withastemofsix，tosometimeseightfeetincircumference。Thewoodishighlyaromatic；andIhavealreadydescribeditasresemblingamixtureofsandal-woodandcedar。ThistreeisknownbytheCypriotesaskypresses，whilethedwarfvarietyisknownasthe“wildcypress，“andiscalledbythem“aoratu。“
Plane(Platanus)——Thistreeisgenerallyfoundintheravinesamongthemountains，onthebordersofstreams，andwouldgrowtoalargesize，butitsstraightyoungstemsaremuchsoughtafterbythenativesforvariouspurposes，anditisseldomallowedachanceofarrivingunscathedatmaturity。Itslightgreenfoliageishighlyornamental，mixedwiththedarkshadesoftheilexinthedeepbottomsofthegorges；andwhereveranever-failingstreamismetwiththeplanemaybeexpected。
Theelm，ash，maple，walnut，mulberry，peach，apricot，apple，pear，filbert，fig，plum，cherry，orange，lemon，pomegranate，arecommon，butastheydonotcomewithinthecategoryoftreesindigenoustothenaturalforestsoftheisland，Ishallnotincludethem。
Olive——Thewildoliveformsaconsiderableportionofthelowscrub-woodsoftheCarpasdistrict，andtheyoungtrees，whentransplantedandgrafted，becometheacceptedolivesofcultivation。
Thereisnoreasonwhythewildoliveshouldnotbegraftedinitsnaturalpositionthesameasthecaroub。
Caroub——Thistreehasalreadybeendescribed，butalthoughnotvaluableastimber，owingtotheshortlengthofitstrunk，itshouldreceivethespecialattentionofthegovernment，asitsproduceshouldbeextendedtotheutmostlimitofthecapabilitiesoftheisland。Ifthewildtreesweregraftedwherevertheyaremetwith，wholeforestswouldquicklybeproducedwithaminimumoflabour，andvasttractsofrockysoil，worthlessforothercultivation，wouldbebroughtintovalue，atthesametimethatthesurfacewouldbecoveredwiththemuchdesiredvegetation。
Tremithia——Thewoodofthistreeisofnovalue，buttheberriesareusedasasubstituteforolive-oil；asitgrowsinlargequantitiesasashrub，simplybecauseitisnotallowedthechanceofarrivingatmaturity，itistobehopedthatafewyearsofforestsupervisionwilladdthisshadyandhighly-ornamentaltreetothelistofthosecommontotheisland。Thearbutus，myrtle，andthemasticaretreesofsosmallagrowththattheycannotbeclassedwith“WoodsandForests。“
OneofthefirstactsoftheBritishadministrationwasastringentprohibitionagainstthefellingofanytreethroughoutCyprus，orthecuttingofanywoodfortheburningofcharcoal。ThislawforthepreservationofwoodsandforestsextendedtotreesuponPRIVATE
PROPERTYOFINDIVIDUALS！——thustheownerofagardencouldnotcutdownoneofhisowncaroub-treesiftheyweretoothicklyplanted；orifherequiredapieceoftimberformakingorrepairinghiswater-wheel。Anactfortheprotectionofcrownforestswashighlynecessary，butnolawsareofvalueunlessthemachineryexistsforenforcingthem，andatthepresentmomentthestringentenactmentagainstthedestructionoftreesmaybeevadedlikeanyoftheTenCommandments，becausethereisabsolutelynostaff，norspecialofficersforthesupervisionofwoodsandforests。Thisimportantsubjectrequiresaseparatedepartment，andnothingcanbemoresimpleifadministeredbypersonsqualifiedbyeducationforthedevelopmentoftreessuitabletotheisland。Thepovertyofthelocalgovernment，owingtothemiserableconditionsofourtenure，whichsendthecreamtoTurkey，andsucklethenecessarystaffuponthethinskimmed-milk，doesnotpermittherealimprovementoftheforests。Itissimplyridiculoustomakelawswithouttheactiveweaponstoenforceauthority；wemayaswellrestsatisfiedwiththegamelawsinEnglandanddismissourkeepers，asprohibitthecuttingofwoodinCypruswithoutsupervisingtheforestsbyastaffofforesters。
Ifthewords“Thoushaltnotsteal，“evenfromadivinecommand，weresufficienttopreventfelonyandpettylarceny，itwouldbefollytoincurtheexpenseofpolice；butweknowthatpracticallyalllawsmustbeupheldbyforce，representedbytheauthorisedguardiansofthestate。AtthismomentinCyprusthelawproclaims，“Thoushaltnotcutatree，“whilepracticallyyoumaycutasmanyasyoulikeinthemountainforests，asthereisnopersonauthorisedtointerferewithyouracts。
Somemiserableoffendermaybepounceduponinhisowngarden，nearoneoftheprincipaltowns，wherethelawSHOULDNEVERHAVEBEENENFORCED，asinterferingwiththeindividualrightsofprivateproperty；butinthesituationswheretheprohibitionisofthefirstimportance，thereisliterallynotanofficerormantopreventtheusualdepredations。
Why？Theanswermustbeaccepted。Thereisnomoney，andwecannotaffordanindependentdepartmentof“WoodsandForests。“Ifthecountryistocontinueinthisslip-shodformitisadisgracetoEngland。
Thereistimetosavetheforestsfromabsolutedestruction，andinmyownopinion，beforeanythingisdonebeyondthenecessaryroadsandirrigationloans，everypossibleattentionshouldbeconcentratedupontheprotectionanddevelopmentofforest-trees。
Thepositionatthismomentisasfollows。Throughouttheentiremountainrangetherearenot5percent。ofpinesfreefrommutilation。
ThewholeofTroodos，andthemountaindistrictsfromnearLithrodondotoasfarwestasPoli-ton-Khrysokus，arenaturallyadaptedforthegrowthofpinesandcypress，whichlovethesoiloftheplutonicrocks，anddrivetheirrootsdeepintotheinterstices，derivingnourishmentwherenothingelsewouldthrive。Uponthehighestaltitudesthereisnotadwarfshrubtocoverthesurfaceoftheloosecoffee-colouredrocks，whereinthewinterthesnowaccumulatestoadepthoftwentyfeet，yettherewefindthepinesandcypressintheirgreatestvigour；buteventothesesolitaryheightstheCypriotehaspenetratedwithhisunsparingaxe，andhascreatedadesolationthatmustbeseentobeunderstood。
Thereisnosightsoexasperatingasthisuncalled-fordestruction；itisbeyondallbelief，andwhentheamountoflabourisconsideredthatmusthavebeenexpendedinthisindiscriminateattackuponforest-treesTHATARELEFTTOROTUPONTHEGROUNDwheretheyhavefallen，theobjectoftheattackisatfirstsightinconceivable。Thesightofamountainpine-forestinCypruswouldconveytheimpressionthatanenemywhohadconqueredthecountryhaddeterminedtoutterlydestroyit，eventotheprimaevalforests；hehadthereforefelled，andlefttorot，thegreaterportionofthetrees；butfindingthelabourbeyondhismeans，hehadcontentedhimselfwithbarking，ringing，andhackingatthebaseoftheremainder，toensuretheirultimatedestruction。
TheextremeheightsofTroodos，shouldersandhead，areabout6300feetabovethesea，fromwhichaltitudethepinesandcypressdescendtowithin1500feetofthelevel。Thereareroughnativemule-pathsthroughoutthemountains，andthesure-footedanimalswillcarryamanwitheasewherewalkingwouldbemostfatiguing，owingtothelooserocksandsmallerstones，whichcovereveryinchofthesurface。Ihavewalkedandriddenoverthegreaterportion，butinallcasesIhavebeenovercomewithangeranddismayattheterribleexhibitionofwantonandunwarrantabledesolation。Ifahurricanehadpassedoverthecountryandtornupbytherootsninetreesoutofeverytenthatcomposedtheforest，thedestructionwouldbenothingcomparedtothatofthenativeCypriote，whomutilatesthosewhichhehasnotfelled；thewindwouldonlyupturn，butwouldsparethosewhosestrengthhadresistedtheattack。Magnificenttreeslierottinguponthegroundinthousandsuponthousands，untouchedsincethehourwhentheyfellbeforethemostscientificallyappliedaxe。Ineversawahigherexampleofwoodcraft。
Thetrunksofpinestwofeetindiameterarecutsocarefully，thattheworkoftheaxeisalmostasneatasthatofacross-cutsaw。Theselargetreesaredividedaboutfourfeetfromtheground，asthatisaconvenientheightforthewoodman，andsparehisbackfromstoopingtohisblow。Eachcutwiththeaxeisnearlyatarightanglewiththestemandsoregularlyisthecuttingconductedcompletelyroundthetree，thatatlengthonlytwo，oratthemostthreeinchesofwoodremaintosupportthetrunk，whichintheabsenceofwindremainsbalancedtothelastmoment，untiloverthrownbythewedge。
Uponfirstarrivalinthecountryitisdifficulttocomprehendthereasonforthisgeneraldestruction；butasagipsyinTurkeywillburndownahandsometreeinordertomakehiswoodenspoons，sotheCypriotewillfellalargepineforthesakeofthebaseoffiveorsixfeetinlengththatwillaffordhimawoodentrougheitherforwaterortofeedhispigs。Agreatnumberofthelargertreesarecutandpartiallyscoopedforfourorfivefeetbeforetheirdestructionisdeterminedupon，asthecarpenterwishestoprovethequalityoftheheart。Manyarerejected，andtheoperationproceedsnofurther；butthetreeremainsmutilatedforever。
Othertreesarefelledforthepurposeofobtainingtar。Beforetheyareabsolutelycutdowntheyaretappedbycuttingadeepincisionnearlyintothecentreoftheheart，likeahugenotch，andtheyareleftforatimetoprovewhetherthetarwillrun，asexhibitedbytheproductionoftheresin。Ifunfavourable，thetreeisleftthuscuttotheheartandblemished。Nearlyeverytreeisthusmarked。Ifthesignsoftararepropitious，thetreeisfelled，thebranchesarelopped，andthetrunkcutintosectionsandsplit。Allpiecesarethenarrangedlongitudinallyinarudekilnformedofloosestonesandearth，inwhichtheyareburned，andthetarasitexudesisledbyanarrowgutterformedofclayintothereceptacleprepared。
Shouldastraightpoleberequiredforanyspecialpurpose，alargepineisfelled，andthetapered，pointedtopiscutofftoaconvenientlength，thegreatsparbeingrejectedandlefttodecayupontheground。
Ihaveneverseenpit-sawsused，butasarule，shouldabeamorstoutplankberequired，awholetreeisadzedawaytoproduceit，andgreatpilesofchipsarecontinuallymetwithintheforests，wheresomelargetrunkhasthusperishedundertheexhaustingprocess。Iwasrathersurprised，whenthemilitaryhutswereconveyedatanimmenseexpenseoftransporttothemountainstation，thatafewpairsofEnglishsawyershadnotbeenemployedtocuttheinexhaustiblesupplyofseasonedwoodnowlyinguselesslyupontheground，thatwouldhavesuppliedallnecessaryplanksandrafters，&c。
Fires，eitheraccidentalormalicious，arenotuncommon，andIhaveseenhill-sidescompletelydestroyed。Atacertainseasonthepineschangetheirfoliageandthegroundbecomesthicklycoveredtothedepthofacoupleofinchesormorewiththedryandhighlyinflammablespines。
Shouldthesetakefire，theconflagrationinahighwindbecomesserious，andspreadstothetrees，whichperish。
Nothingwouldbeeasierthantodefendtheinterestsofthewoodsandforestsbyanefficientstaffofforesters，whoshouldbeHighlandersfromScotlandaccustomedtomountainclimbing，orEnglishgame-keepers，whowouldcombinetheprotectionofforestswiththatofgame。Thesemen，underthecommandofacertainnumberofofficers，shouldbequarteredinparticulardistricts，andwouldquicklyacquireaknowledgeofthelocalities。Thehighermountainswouldbetheirhomeduringthesummermonths，fromwhichpointsthesoundofanaxecouldbeheardfromagreatdistance，andfromthecommandingelevationadepredatorcouldbedistinctlyidentifiedwithagoodtelescope。TheCypriotesareeasilygoverned，andshouldafewsevereexamplesbemadepublicwhenthedestroyershadbeentakenintheact，anexceedinglysmallstaffofforesterswouldbesufficienttoinsureorderandprotection。
Thepineandcypressarethetreesmostgenerallyattacked，and，asI
havealreadyshown，thereisnodifficultywhateverintheirpreservationshouldtherequisitestaffofofficialsbeappointed。Itshould，however，beborneinmindthatthepreservationofwoodsandforestsisasimplemattercomparedwiththeabsolutenecessityoftheirextension；itisthereforedesirabletoexaminethecapabilitiesoftheislandfortree-culture。
WhenCypruswasfirstoccupiedbyBritishtroopstheEnglishnewspaperswerefullofsuperficialadvicesuggestedbynumerouswell-meaningcorrespondentswhowereutterlydevoidofpracticalexperienceintree-planting，andaunanimousverdictwasgiveninfavouroftheEucalyptusglobulus，andothervarietiesofthesametree，irrespectiveofallknowledgeoflocalitiesandsoils。
Theabsenceofmoneywouldbetheonlyexcuseforanydelayinexperimentaltree-culture。Theseedsoftheeucalyptusweresentoutinconsiderablequantitiestothevariouschiefcommissionersofdistrictsforcultivation，asthoughtheseoverworkedandill-paidofficerswereomniscient，andaddedthepracticalknowledgeofhorticulturetotheirmilitaryqualifications。EverycommissionerthatIsawhadafewoldwineorbeercasesfilledwithearth，inwhichhewasendeavouringtoproduceembryoforestsofthevarietiesofeucalyptus，tobeplantedoutwhengerminated——how，when，orwhere，hecouldnottell。Ofcoursealltheseattemptsendedinfailure。Thereshouldhavebeenanexperiencedgardenerspeciallyappointedforthepurposeofraisingandplantingouttheyoungtreesadaptedforthevarioussoilsandaltitudesofthecountry，andsuchtreesshouldhavebeenreadyfortheirpositionsatthecommencementofthewintermonthsinNovember。Thecommissionersworkedinthisnewoccupationwiththesamepraiseworthyenergythatdistinguishedthemthroughoutallthetryingdifficultiesoftheirappointmentasrulersinastrangecountry，where，withoutaknowledgeofthelanguageorcustoms，theyweresuddenlycalledupontoconferhappinessandcontentmentuponanoppressedpopulationbyadministeringTURKISHlawsintheessenceoftheirintegrity。
TheCyprioteshadexpectedtoseeEnglandandtheEnglishastheirrulers；butlikethewell-knownsaying，“ScratchaRussianandyoudiscovertheTartar，“theymighthave“scratchedanEnglishmanandhavefoundtheTurk，“intheactualregimethatwewereboundtomaintainaccordingtotheconditionsoftheBritishoccupation。
Thenativemindcouldnotunderstandthereasonforthestringentruleprohibitingthecuttingoftreesandtheycametotheconclusionthatourgovernmentcontemplatedsomeselfishadvantage，andthattheforestswereeventuallytobeleasedtoacompany。Whentheyshallseetree-plantingcommencedbythegovernmentuponanextensivescaletheywillbelieveintheundertakingasintendedforthewelfareoftheisland。
Wheneverthisimportantandnecessaryworkshallbeorganised，itistobehopedthat“commonsense“willbeemployedintheselectionoftreesadaptedforthevariouslocalities，andthatnoabsurdexperimentswillbemadeuponalargescalebyintroducingvarietiesforeigntotheislanduntiltheyshallhavebeentestedsatisfactorilyinbotanicalnurseriesestablishedatvariousaltitudes。
Therearevariouslocaldifficultiesthatmustbeconsideredinadditiontosoilandclimate；themostimportantisthepresenceofvastnumbersofgoatsthroughoutthemountains，thatwouldutterlydestroycertainvarietiesofyoungplants。Therecanbenodoubtthattheclimateandsoilarespeciallyadaptedfortheintroductionofthecommonlarch，whichwouldgrowquicklyintovalueforthemuch-neededpolesforraftersandbeamsfortheflat-toppedroofs；butthistreeiseagerlydevouredbysheep，goats，andcattle，andwouldbedestroyedinitsfirststageunlessprotectedbyfencing。Itwillbeasaferuletoadoptthenativetreesasaguidetofutureextension，asthevarietiesofsuchclassesasareindigenouswillassuredlysucceed。Thetwoexistingpinesareshunnedbygoatsevenwhenintheirearliestgrowth，andtheyaresoineradicablethatweretheforestssparedandallowedtoremainwithoutartificialplanting，intenyearstherewouldbemassesofyoungtreestoothickforthesuccessoftimber。Therain，whenheavy，washesthefallenconesfromthehighestpoints，andastheyarecarriedbythesurfacewaterdownthesteepinclinestheyhitchamongtherocksandtakerootineveryfavourablelocality。Herewehavetwonativetreesthatwillplantthemselvesandflourishwithoutexpense，invulnerabletotheattacksofgoats，andonlydemandingrestandtime。Ontheotherhand，theymightbeplantedatregularintervalswithsosmallanoutlaythattheirartificialarrangementwouldbeadvisable。
Thecypressmaybeextendedinasimilarmanner。
Thepresenceofseveralvarietiesofoakwouldnaturallysuggesttheintroductionofthecork-treeandthespecieswhichproducesthevalonia，whichformsanimportantarticleoftrade，andislargelyusedinEnglandbythetanner。ThiscupoftheacornoftheQuercusaegilopsisextremelyrichintannin，andrangesinpricefrom20to30poundssterlingpertondeliveredinanEnglishport。ItisexportedlargelyfromtheLevant，andtherecanbelittledoubtthatitsintroductiontoCypruswouldeventuallysupplyanewsourceofrevenue。
TheclimateandsoiloftheTroodosmountainswouldbehighlyfavourabletothecork-tree，*whichwouldafterthirtyorfortyyearsbecomeextremelyvaluable。TheboxmightbeintroducedfromthemountainsofSpain，alsotheSpanishchestnut，whichforbuildingpurposesisinvaluable，asnotonlypracticallyimperishable，butfire-proof。ItisnotgenerallyknownthatthewoodoftheSpanishchestnutissouninflammablethatitrequirestheaidofotherfueltoconsumeitbyfire；itmightbeusedwithgreatadvantageinmassivelogsforuprightpillars，tosupportbeamsofsimilarwoodinwarehouses。
(*ThecorkoakismentionedinsomeworksonCyprusasindigenoustotheisland；thisisamistake。Theilexisplentiful，butnotthecork-tree。)
Althoughthewalnutcannotbeclassedwithforest-treesindigenoustoCyprus，itflourishesabundantlyatahighelevation，rangingfromabout2500to5000feetabovethesea。AtTrooditissamonasterytherearetreesthatwereplantedbythehandsoftheoldmonk，myinformant，onlytwentyyearsago，whichareequalinsizetoagrowthoffiftyyearsinEngland。Theplantingofwalnutsshouldcertainlybeencouraged，asthewoodisextremelyvaluable；atthesametimethatthecropyieldsanannualrevenue。
ThepreservationandextensionofthewoodsandforeststhroughoutthemountainousdistrictsofCyprusareasimpleaffair，whichonlyrequirescapitalandcommonsensecombinedwiththeusualnecessaryexperience。
Thereareotherportionsoftheislandwhichrequireadifferenttreatment。
ItisthefashiontoaccrediteveryportionofCyprusastree-bearinginitsearlyhistory，butifthestudentwillcomparethelargepopulationreportedtohaveexistedatthattimewiththesuperficialareaoftheisland，itwillbeplainlyseenthataverylargeproportionmusthavebeenundercultivation，otherwisesuppliesmusthavebeenimported。I
havebeforementionedmyopinionthatthehardbaresurfaceofthedenudedcretaceoushillscouldneverhavebornetimber，neitherdoI
believeinthetraditionsconcerningforestsintheplainofMessaria，forthesimplereasonthatitmusthavebeenthecereal-producingareaoftheisland。
Theancientforestsmusthaveexistedwherethevestigesremaintothepresentday，inwhichlocalitiesthenaturalinclinationofthesoilistoproducetrees，whicharestillrepresented，inspiteofthehideousdestructionperpetratedbytheinhabitantsduringmanycenturies。ThesepositionsincludetheentireCarpasdistrict，togetherwiththelongrangeofcompactlimestonemountainsformingthenorthernwalloftheisland，thenortherncoastandwestern，comprisingthecountrybetweenPoli-ton-Khrysokhus，andBaffo，andthecentralandcoast-linefromBaffotoLimasol，withexceptionsoflandshereandtherecultivatedwithcereals。Thegreaterportionofthemountainsthatarenowoccupiedwithvineyardswereoriginallyforests，whichhavebeenclearedspeciallyforthecultivationofthevine。Ihaveseengroundatanelevationof4800feetwherethevineyardsoriginallyexisteduponclearedforestsoil，which，havingbeenabandoned，isrelapsingintoitsformerstate，becomingmoreorlesscoveredwithpinesasbirdsmayhavedroppedtheseeds，ortheconesmayhavebeendrivenfromhigheraltitudesbywindandrain。
Thequestionthatmustnowbedeterminedisthis：“Whatportionsoftheislandaretoberestoredtoforest？”Anypersonwhohascarefullyexaminedthecountrycanreplywithouthesitation，“Plantalluselesslandswithtrees；thoseuselesslandsarealreadymoreorlesscoveredwithbushorwoods，anddenotetheirownposition，intheCarpas，theTroodos，andallmountainandhillranges。“
Whereancientforestshavedisappearedinfavourofcultivation，itwouldbefollytoconvertanimprovementintotheoriginalwilderness。
Thatquestioniseasilysimplified，andwhenthedepartmentofWoodsandForestsshallbeestablished，afewyearsofenergywillproduceanewpictureinacountrywherethegrowthoftimberproceedsquickly。
Butthelastnecessaryreformstillremainsunnoticed；thisshoulddeterminetheamountofcaroubs，mulberry，andfruit-treesthatshouldbeCUMPULSORILYplantedbyallproprietorsoflandinproportiontotheiracreage；andthisisabsolutelynecessary。
AsIhavedescribedinmanyportionsofourjourneythroughCyprus，thesimpleactionofaninsignificantstream，orofasolitarycattle-wheel，formsanoasisintherainlessdesertoftheMessaria，andtheeyethathasbeenweariedwiththebarrenaspectofatreelesssurfaceisgladdenedbythereliefofasuddenappearanceofgrovesoforanges，lemons，andothershadytrees，theresultofasupplyofwater。Wheneversuchwelcomespotsaremetwithuponthemiserableplain，thequestioninvariablyarises，“Whyshouldsuchfruitfulanddelightfulpositionsbesorare？Thesoilisfertile，theclimateisfavourable，allthatisrequirediswater，andenergy。“
IfaCyprioteisaskedthequestion，heinvariablyreplies“thatduringtheTurkishadministrationthefruit-treesincreasedtheirtroubles，owingtothevexatiousandextortionatetaxationofthecrops，thereforetheyweregladtobequitofthemaltogether。“YourquestionNo。2
follows，“WhydoyounotplanttreesnowthattheEnglishhaveoccupiedthecountry？”Thereplyisstereotyped，“Wearenotsurethatyouwillremainherepermanently，andifyouabandontheislandtheTurkswillresumetheoldsystemwithevengreateroppressionthanbefore。“Thisisanunanswerabledilemma，whichnodoubtretardsimprovements；butthereisathirddifficultywhichisinvariablybroughtprominentlyforwardwhenanysuggestionsaremadeforanextensionofagriculturalenterprise：“Wehavenomoney。“Thisisabsolutelytrue，althoughIhaveheardtheassertioncontestedbycertainauthorities。Thepeopleasarulearemiserablypoor，andcannotaffordtoruntherisksofexperiments，especiallyduringthepresentuncertaintyconnectedwiththeBritishoccupation。
TheopinionsthatIpersonallyofferarebasedupontheassumptionthatEnglandcanneverrecedefromthepositionshehasassumedinCyprus，whichshemustcontinue，forbetterorforworse，asapointofhonour。
Anyabandonmentoftheprotectionwehaveaffordedtotheinhabitantswouldtendtoaggravatetheirposition，shouldtheyreturntotheauthorityofthePorte，andtheironlyhopewouldlieintheoccupationofouremptybedbyFrance，whocertainlyrequiresacoalingdepottowardstheeastoftheMediterranean。ShouldwewashourhandsofCyprus，andevacuateitinasimilarmannertoCorfu，weshouldbecomethelaughing-stockofEurope，andnofuturesteptakenbyEnglandintheformofa“protectorate“wouldeverbereliedupon。HadweretainedCorfutothepresentmoment，nodoubtwouldhaveexistedastoanychangeinourintentionsrespectingCyprus，buttheprecedentestablishedbyourretirementfromthatgrandstrategicalpositionhasborneitsfruitinthewantofconfidencenowfeltbyallclassesinthepermanenceofournewacquisition。
ItwillbeadmittedthatageneralwantofelasticityhassucceededtothefirstboundofexpectationthatwasraisedbythesuddenannouncementofaBritishoccupation；thegovernmentcannotbeheldresponsibleforthedisappointmentofrashadventurers，buttheirtrueresponsibilitycommencedwhentheyassumedthechargeoftheinhabitantsofCyprus。Thefirstyearofthenewadministrationhasbeenmarkedbyaminimumrainfallthathascausedthedestructionofallcropsdependentuponthenaturalwater-supplyofseasons，andthispartialfamineofthefirstyearofouroccupationisgenerallyregardedasadisaster。
Althoughdisastrous，Ibelievetheseriouswarningwilloperatewithwholesomeeffect，byopeningtheeyesoftheauthoritiestotheabsolutenecessityofdirectingspecialattentiontotherequirementsofthepeople，whoaftercenturiesofoppressionhavebecomeapatheticandinert，whichunfitsthemforthespontaneousactionthatshouldbeexertedagainstthedangerousexigenciesoftheirclimate。ThegovernmentofCyprusmustbetoacertainextentpaternal，andtheplantingoftreesthatwilleventuallybenefitnotonlyindividuals，buttheislandgenerally，andultimatelytherevenue，shouldbemadecompulsory，inproportiontotheareaofthevariousholdings，dueassistancebeingaccordedtotheproprietorsbywayofloans。
TheeucalyptusissuitableformanylocalitiesinthelowlandsofLarnacaandFamagousta，anditmightbeprofitablyintroducedthroughoutsuchswampysoilsastheneighbourhoodofMorphuandothersimilarpositionswithgoodsanitaryresults；butsuchtreeswillrepresentthewoodsandforestsofthelowcountrywithoutaproductiveincometothepopulation；whereasbyanenforcedcultivationoffruit-treesuponeveryholdingtheislandwouldinafewyearsbecomeagarden，andtheexportationoffruittoEgypt，onlythirtyhours\'distant，wouldbethecommencementofanimportanttrade，alikebeneficialtotheindividualproprietorsandtotheislandgenerally。
Atthepresenttime，andformanyyearspast，AlexandriahasbeensuppliedwithallfruitsfromJaffa，Beyrout，andvariousportsonthecoastofSyria，butthereisnoreasonwhyCyprusshouldnoteventuallymonopolisethetrade，ifspecialattentionshallbebestowed(bythesuggesteddepartmentofWoodsandForests)uponthequalitiesandcultivationwheneveranarrangementforanextensionofplantingshallbecarriedout。IhaveneverseenanyfruitsofhighqualityinCyprus，buttheyaregenerallymostinferior，owingtotheneglectofgrafting，andtheovercrowdingofthetrees。Thecherrieswhichgrowinthevillagesfrom2500to4500feetabovetheseaaretakendowntoLimasolandtheprincipaltownsforsale，buttheyaresmallandtasteless，althoughredandbrightincolour。Theygrowinlargequantities，andareneverattackedbybirdswhichrenderthecropprecariousinEngland，andnecessitatetheexpenseofnetting；shouldthebestvarietiesbeintroduced，everynaturaladvantageexistsfortheircultivation。
Theapricotsarenotmuchlargerthanchestnuts，andwouldbeclassedas“wildfruit，“fromtheextremeinferiorityofsizeandflavour；butthereisnoreasonexceptneglectforthelowqualityofadeliciousspeciesoffruitthatseemsfromtheluxuriantgrowthofthetreetobespeciallyadaptedtothesoilandclimate。Itisuselesstoenumeratethevarietiesoffruitsthatarebroughttomarket；allareinferior，exceptinggrapesandlemons。Theproductionsofthegardensexhibitthemiserablepositionoftheisland，whichemanatesfromawantofelasticityinadebasedandoppressedpopulationtooapatheticandhopelesstoattemptimprovements。
Englandcanchangethiswretchedstagnationbytheapplicationofcapital，andbyencouragingthedevelopmentofthefirstnecessity，WATER；withoutwhich，allattemptsatagriculturalimprovements，andtheextensionoftree-plantinginthelowcountry，wouldbefutile。Ishallthereforedevotethefollowingchaptertothesubjectofartificialirrigation，anditsresults。
CHAPTERXIV。
REMARKSONIRRIGATION。
TheancientprosperityofCyprusmusthavebeenduetoartificialirrigation，whichensuredamaximumofproduction，similartotheinundatedlandsofEgypt。InthelattercountrytheNileisa“SalvatorMundi，“withoutwhichEgyptwouldbeasimpleprolongationoftheNubianandLibyandeserts，intheabsenceofaseasonablerainfall。Thedifferencebetweenthegreatcereal-producingportionofCyprusandtheDeltaofEgyptis，that，althoughtheplainofMessariahasbeenformedchieflythroughtheactionofthePediasriverandotherperiodicalmountainstreams，whichhavedepositedarichstratumofsoilduringinundations，theriversaremerelytorrents，orsimpleconduits，whichcarryoffthewatersofheavystorms，orintervalsofrain，andactasdrainsinconveyingthesurpluswatersduringfloods；whileatothertimestheyareabsolutelydry。
IftheNilewerecontrolledbyaseriesofweirsordams，withsluicestodivertthehighwatersoftheperiodintonaturaldepressionswithinthedesert，toformreservoirsathighlevelsforthesupplyofEgyptinseasonsofscarcity，thecommandofthewater-supplywouldbefarpreferabletothechancesofraininthemostfavouredcountry。Water，likefire，shouldbetheslaveofman，towhomitisthefirstnecessity；thereforehisfirsteffortinhisstrugglewiththeelementsshouldreducethispowertovassalage。Theremustbenoquestionofsupremacy；watermustservemankind。
ManyyearsagoIpublished，intheNileTributariesofAbyssinia，myideasforthecontroloftheNileandthesubmersionofthecataractsbyaseriesofweirs，withwater-gatesforthefacilityofnavigation；
whichwithcertainmodificationswillsomedayassuredlybecarriedout，andwillrenderEgyptthemostfavouredcountryoftheworld，asabsolutemistressoftheriverwhichisnowatthesametimeatyrantandaslave。ThePediasofCyprusmayduringsometerrificrainfallassumeproportionsthatwouldconveyamosterroneousimpressiontothemindofastranger，who，uponregardingtheboilingtorrentoverspreadingavalleyofsomemilesinwidthinitsimpetuouscoursetowardsancientSalamis，mightconcludethatitwasariverofthefirstimportance。ThefactisthatnoRIVERexistsinCyprus：whatshouldberiversaremerechannels，watercourses，brooks，torrents，oranyofthemultifariousnamesforstream-bedsthatmaybediscoveredinanEnglishdictionary。Atthesametimethatthenaturalchannelsaredryduringthesummermonths，throughthewantofpowerinthewater-headtoovercometheabsorptionoftheporoussoilthroughoutitscourse，itmustnotbeforgottenthatacertainsupplyexistsatthefountainhead，withinpracticabledistance，whichmightbestoredandledfromthemountainstothelowerlandsforthepurposesofirrigation。WhenwereflectthatintheproverbiallywetclimateofEnglandthereisaconsiderabledifficultyinassuringasupplyofwholesomewater，andthatthevariouswatercompanieshavemadeenormousprofits，itisnotsurprisingthatinaneglectedislandlikeCyprusthereshouldbedistressintheabsenceofabundantrain。TheuninitiatedinEnglandseldomappreciatethelabourandexpenditurethathassuppliedtheresponsetothesimpleturningofatapwithinanordinaryhouse。Iftheywouldfollowtheartificialstreamfromthesmallleadenpipetothedistantreservoir，theywoulddiscoverthataglenorvalleyhasbeenwalledinbyastupendousdam，whichimprisonsahill-rivuletbeforeitcanhavedescendedtotheimpuritiesofhabitations，andthatthepressureofwatersthusstoredatanelevatedlevelforcesasupplytoatownatadistanceofmanymiles。ThissameprinciplemightbeadoptedinnumerouslocalitiesamongthemountainsofCyprus，wherethestreamsareperennial，butarenowexhaustedbytheabsorptionofthesandybedsbeforetheyhavetimetoreachthevillagesinthelowerlands。Ironpipesmightbelaidtoconveyawater-supplytocertaindistricts，uponwhicharatewouldbeleviedperacreandthecropswouldbeensured。
Thegovernmentatthepresentmomentobtainsarevenueinkind，orinamoneyvaluationofthecorntakenatthethreshing-floor；thusintheabsenceofacropthroughdrought，orotheraccident，therevenuesuffersdirectlytogetherwiththeowner：nocrop，norevenue。Themainstrengthofacountryliesinanannualincomefreefromseriousfluctuations，andtheextremeinstabilityofCyprusistheresultofthepeculiaruncertaintyofseasonswhichisaspecialfeatureinitsmeteorologicalcondition。Itisthereforeincumbentuponthegovernment，asanactofself-preservation，totakesuchmeasuresofprecautionaswillrendercertainthesupplyofwater，whichisallthatisrequiredtoensuretheaverageproduceofthesoil，andtherebytosustaintherevenue。
Idonotindulgeinengineeringdetails，but，fromtheexperienceIhavegainedbyapersonalexaminationofthelocalities，Iamconvincedthatnodifficultywhateverexiststhatwouldnotbeovercomewithaverymoderateoutlay。Themountainsareadmirablysituated，withawatersheduponallsides，thusofferingthegreatestfacilitiesforreservoirsandpipesthatwouldradiateineverydirection。Thissubjectwilldemandacarefulinquirybyhydraulicengineers，asitisaspecialbranchoftheprofessionthatrequireswideexperience，andlargesumsmaybefruitlesslyexpendedthroughignorance，whereatriflingamountwelladministeredmightachievegreatresults。
Oneofthefirstnecessarystepsinanexaminationofthesubterraneanwater-supplyofCypruswillbe“borings“thatwilltesttheexistenceofartesiansprings。Thereareinmanyportionsoftheislandextensiveplateauxathighaltitudesthatwouldabsorbaconsiderablerainfall，inadditiontoalargesuperficialareaofmountainsandhillsthatwouldexerttherequisitepressuretoforcethewaterabovethesurfaceofalowerleveluponboring，shoulditnowliebeneathsomeimperviousstratum。Boringwillalonesolvethisquestion。Shouldartesianwellsbepracticableincertainlocalities，animmenseblessingwillbeconferredupontheisland。
Inthemeantimethenativemethodalreadydescribed，ofconnectingchainsofwellsfromdifferentspringsconvergingtoamainchannelorsubterraneantunnel，isanoriginalformofCyprianengineeringthoroughlyunderstoodbythepopulation，whichshouldbestrenuouslyencouraged。ItisacommonfaultamongEnglishpeopletoignorethevalueofnativemethods，andtosubstitutesomecostlymachinerywhichrequiresskilledlabourandexpenseinworking；thismustintimegetoutoforderandnecessitatedelayandextraoutlayinrepairs；
generallyataperiodwhenthemachineismostrequired。
Itisacuriousfactthattheshadooforleverandbucketworkedbyhand，whichissogenerallyusedthroughoutEgypt，isunknowninCyprus，whereinmanylocalitiesitwouldbeeasilyworkedwhenwateriswithinfivetoeightfeetofthesurface。Thisarrangementonlyrequiresapoleofabouttwentyfeetinlengthsupporteduponanuprightpost，soastoplaylikeapump-handlebythebalanceofaweightattachedtooneendtocounterbalancethepailofwatersuspendedtoalongstickandshortropeattheotherextremity。InEgypttheweightattheshortendismerelyamassofclaytemperedwithchoppedstrawbeatentogethertorepresentabout150lbs。orwhatevermayberequired；thisadheres，andformsaknobtotheendofthelever。
Amanholdsthelongthinsticksuspendedattheotherextremitytowhichthebucketisattached，andpullsitdownhandoverhanduntiltheutensilisimmersedinthewater；whenfull，itissonearlycounterbalancedbytheweightattheendoftheleverthataveryslightexertionraisesittothedesiredlevel，whereitisemptiedintoareceiver。Manyyearsago，whenatGondokoro，Iarrangedadoubleshadoofofparallelleversandtwogalvanisedironbucketsoffourgallonseach，workedbytwomen。Itimedthelabourofthissimplemachine，andprovedthatthetwomendelivered3600gallonswithinanhour。Themenexertedthemselvestoadegreethatcouldnothavebeencontinuedthroughouttheday，andthebuckets，ofEnglishmake，werefarmorecapaciousthanthesimpleleatherstretcheduponahoopofsticksthatisusedinEgypt；
butthereisnoreasonforsuchinferioradjuncts。Itmaybesafelyassumedthatwithproperappliancesthedoubleshadoof，workedbytwomen，willdeliver2000gallonsanhourforaworkingdayofsixactivehours，oratotalof12，000gallons。InCyprusthewagesofalabourerareoneshillingaday，thereforethecostofraising12，000gallonswouldbeonlytwoshillings，providedthewaterisonlyfivefeetfromthesurface。TherearemanyportionsoftheMessariaplainwherethewaterisevennearer，buttheshadoofcouldworkprofitablyatsix，andevenateightfeet，anditpossessestheadvantageofsuchextremecheapnessoforiginalcostthattheoutlayisinsignificant。
Wherefuelisexpensive，andcattleandhumanlabourcheap，theancientEgyptianwater-wheelwilldeliverasupplyatacheaperratethansteam。
Ithasthemeritofbeingalwaysready；thereisnodelayinlightingfiresandgettingupthesteam；thereisnoexpensiveengineerwhomaybesickorabsentwhenrequired；butthewheelisturnedeitherbynightordaybymulesoroxen，drivenbyachild。Windvanesmightbeattachedtothisprinciple，andcouldbeconnectedonfavourableoccasions。
ThepeculiaritythroughoutthelowerlevelsinCyprus(speciallyexhibitedintheplainofMessaria)ofawater-supplywithinafewfeetofthesurface，atthesametimethatthecropsmaybeperishingfromdrought，isinfavourofthegeneraladoptionoftheEgyptianwheel。
Althoughthissimpleconstructionisoneoftheoldestinventionsforraisingwater，andisgenerallyunderstood，Imaybeexcusedfordescribingitwhenupontheimportanttopicofirrigation。
Alargepitissunktoaboutthreefeetbelowthelevelofthewater，andshouldtheearthnotbesufficientlytenaciousforself-support，thesidesarewalledwithmasonry；thispitwouldusuallybeabouttwentyfeetlong，fourfeetwide，andtwentyfeetdeepforafirst-classwheel。
Whenthewoodenwheelofaboutseventeenfeetdiameterhasbeenfixeduponitshorizontalshaft，itisarrangedwithachainoflargeearthenjars；thoseofEgyptcontainaboutthreegallonseach，buttheCyprianpotsareveryinferior，scarcelyexceedingthesamenumberofquarts。
ThesejarsaresecureduponadoublelineofstiffropesformedinCyprusofthelongtwistedwandsofmyrtle，whichareexceedinglytough，andaresubstitutesforwillowsinbasket-work。Whencompleted，thechainresemblesaropeladder，withthenumerousjarssufficientlyclosetogethertorepresentspokesseparatedbyaboutsixteeninches。Thisissuspendedovertheedgeofthewheel，andhangsvertically；thelowerportionofthisnecklace-likearrangementbeingaboutthreefeetbelowthewater，orasnearthebottomasispossiblewithsafetytothejars。
Whenthewheelturnsthenecklaceofpotsmustofnecessityobeythemovement，andastheydipsuccessivelyandfillinthedeepwater，theyinturnrisetothesurfacewiththerevolutionsofthewheel；uponpassingthecentretheyinvert，andemptytheircontentsintoalargetroughconnectedwithareservoircapableofcontainingmanyhundredhogsheads。Acircularchainorladderoftwentyfeetdiameterwillcontainabouttwentyjarsofthreegallonseach——equallingadeliveryofabouttwoandahalfgallonsperjar，asthereisgenerallyalossofwaterduringthemovement；thereforeonecompleterevolutionofthewheelwoulddeliverfiftygallonsintothereservoir。
Thewheelisturnedbyasimplecontrivanceofwoodencogsanddrivers，workedbyalongrevolvinglever，towhich，forapowerfulmachinesuchasIhavedescribed，apairofmulesoroxenwouldbenecessary。Achildsitsuponthepoleorleverandkeepstheanimalstotheirwork。
Thereisnospecifiedlimittothedepthatwhichthisinstrumentcanwork，asitmustdependuponthelengthofchainandthenumberofjars，whichofcourseincreasetheweightandstrainuponthemachineryandanimals。InCyprus，wherethewaterisgenerallynearthesurface，theadvantagesareobvious，andIfeelconvincedthatnomoderninventionissowelladaptedfortheCypriotecultivator。
Thecostoferectionofsuchamachinecomplete，togetherwiththesinkingofthepit，iscalculated，atanaverageoflocalities，as12
pounds；apairofoxenwillcost10pounds：thusthewater-wheelinworkingorderwillamountto22pounds。Onewheelwillirrigateeightydonums，oraboutfortyacresofcereals，butthesameinstrumentwouldonlysufficeforaboutsixacresofgardenground，whichrequiresamoreconstantsupplyofwater。Itmaythereforebeunderstoodthatincalculatingthepowerofawater-wheel，variousconditionsmustbeconsidered，andIshallconfinemyselftothefarm，uponwhichitwillbenecessarytoestablishonewater-wheelorsakyeeahforeveryfortyacres；thisentailsafirstoutlayofelevenshillingsperacre；andatonceensuresthecropandrendersthefarmerindependentoftheseasons。
Butincludingthecostofconstructingthenumerouswater-channelsofclaytoconductthestreamtothedesiredfields，togetherwiththeexpenseoferectingthereservoirsofmasonryuponasufficientscale，I
shouldraisetheoriginaloutlayforirrigationbycattle-wheelsto20
shillingsperacre(1pound)。Thiswouldincludetheservicesofapairofoxenforotherworkwhenthesakyeeahshouldnotberequired。*(*ThewheelIhavedescribedisdoublethepowerofthoseingeneraluseinCyprus，whereasingleanimalworksthesakyeeah，anditwouldirrigatealargeracreage。)Accordingtothiscalculation，whichexceedsbyalargemarginthefiguresgiventomebyseveralnativefarmers，theownerofahundredacresmustonlyexpend100poundstoensurehisannualcrops！Tousthisappearsnothing，buttotheCyprioteitiseverything。Whereishetoobtainonehundredpounds？Tohimthesumisenormousandoverpowering。
Intimesofscarcity，whichunfortunatelyarethegeneralconditionsofthecountry，owingtothedeficiencyofrain，thefarmermustborrowmoneynotonlyforthecurrentexpensesofhisemployment，butforthebaresustenanceofhisfamily；hehasrecoursetotheusurer，andhenceforthbecomeshisslave。Therateofinterestmaybeanythingthatcanbeimaginedwhenextortionactsupononesidewhilepovertyandabsolutefaminearethepetitioners。Thefarm，togetherwiththestock，aremortgaged，andtheexpectedcropsforastipulatednumberofseasonsaremadeovertotheusureratafixedsumpermeasureofcorn，farbelowthemarketprice。Anotherbadseasonaddstothecrushingburden，andafterafewyears，whentheunfortunatelandowneriscompletelyoverwhelmedwithdebt，perchanceoneofthehappyyearsarriveswhenpropitiousrainsintheproperseasonbringforththegrandcereal-producingpowerofCyprus，andthewheatandbarley，sixfeethigh，waveoverthegreensurfacethroughouttheisland。Theyieldofonesuchabundantcropalmostreleasesthedebtorfromhismisery；
anotheryearwouldfreehimfromtheusurer；butrarelyorneveraretwofavourableseasonsconsecutive；theabundantharvestisgenerallyfollowedbyseveralyearsofdrought。Thispitiablepositionmaybequicklychangedbygovernmentassistancewithouttheslightestrisk。
Thefirstnecessityiscapital，andtheusurermustdisappearfromthescene。Idonotthinkthatanagriculturalbankwillbepracticallyworked，asthevalueofmoneyintheeastisabove6percent。，whichisthemaximumthattheCypriancultivatorshouldpay。Thegovernmentmustadvanceloansforthespecialerectionofwater-wheels，orothermethodsofirrigation，at6percent。，takingamortgageofthelandastheirsecurity；thisloanuponwater-workstotakeprecedenceofallothers。
Thegovernmentcanborrowat4percent。，andwilllendat6，whichisnotabadbeginningforanationalbank。Thewater-wheelscanbeconstructedinafewweeks，andtheireffectwouldbeIMMEDIATE；therewouldbenodoubtfulintervalofyears，buttheveryfirstseasonwouldleavethecultivatorinapositiontorepaytheloan；atthesametime，thegovernmentwouldreapthedirectbenefitofacertainrevenuefromtheirrigatedandassuredproductionoftheland。
Thisisnovisionarytheory；thefactisalreadypatentinthefewfarmsbelongingtowealthyland-ownersthatIhavealreadydescribed，asexhibitingthesimplepowerofafewwater-wheelstoproduceabundance，whileuponthemarginofsuchverdantexamplesthecountryisabsolutelydesert，parchedandwitheredbyaburningsun，yieldingnothingeithertotheownerortotherevenue，whileatthesametimethewater-supplyisonlyfourorfiveyardsbeneaththefeetofthemiserableproprietor，whohasneithercapitalnorpowertoraiseittothesurface。
Thereisnonecessityforthegovernmenttoembarkinanyuncertainenterprise，neithershouldtheyinterferewiththenativemethodsofirrigation；andaboveallthings，nomoneyshouldleavetheislandtofillthepocketsofEnglishcontractorsinthepurchaseofpumps，orotherinventions。AllthatisrequiredbytheCyprioteiscapital；lendhimthemoneyat6percent。：thegovernmentwillbesavedalltrouble，andtheprofittoallpartieswillbeassured。Themoneyexpendedintheerectionofwater-wheelsorotherworkswillcirculatethroughouttheislandinthepaymentofnativelabour，andwillrelievethewantsofmanywho，intheabsenceofland，mustearntheirlivelihoodbymanuallabour。“Water！”isthecrythroughoutthisneglectedisland；ithasbeenthecryinEasternlandsfromtimeimmemorial，wheninthethirstydesertMosessmotetherock，andthestreamgushedforthformultitudes；
whenElijahmockedthepriestsofBaalwith，“Callhimlouder！”intheirvainappealforrain，andthe“littlecloud，nobiggerthanaman\'shand，“roseuponthehorizoninanswertohisprayer。InthesavagetribesofAfrica，the“rain-maker“occupiesthepositionofpriestandchief。InEngland，theclergyofferprayersforeitherrainorforfineweather。InCyprusthefarmerplacesthesmallpictureoftheVirginuponhisfield，beforewhichhelightshistapers，whichthewindextinguishes；atthesametimeTHEWATER-SUPPLYISCLOSEBENEATHHIS
FEET，andtheexpenditureofafewpoundssterlingwouldproduceapermanentblessinganduninterruptedprosperitybypracticalcommonsenseandlabour，withoutanymiraculousinterpositioninhisbehalf。
Therearefewcountrieswheresuchfacilitiesexistforirrigation，andtheworkshouldbecommencedwithoutdelay。Shouldnextyearbeoneofdroughtlikethespringof1879，thegreatestmiserywillbefallthepopulation；thereisalreadysufficientdisappointmentinthewantofprogresssincetheBritishoccupation，andthefeelingwillbeintensifiedshouldtheassistanceofgovernmentbewithheldinthiscryingnecessityofartificialirrigation。
TheCypriotewell-sinkeriswonderfullycleverindiscoveringsprings，andIhavealreadydescribedthemethodofmultiplyingthewater-powerofonesourcebysecuringandconcentratingtheneighbouringsources。
Thisworkonlyrequiresmoney，andtheinhabitants，withoutfurtherassistancethanloanssecuredbyawater-rateuponthedistrict，willrapidlydevelopthenaturalsupply。Thereshouldbeaspecialcommissionappointed，ineachofthesixdistrictsofCyprus，toinvestigateandreportofficiallyuponthissubject。Informingthecommission，careshouldbetakenthatthenativeelementshouldpredominate，andthatnoenthusiasticEnglishengineer，bloomingwithnewschemes，shouldthrustintoshadowtheCyprianintelligenceupontheworkingoftheirownsystems。IfIwereanEnglishengineeremployedinanywork，Ishouldprobablyhavethenaturalfailingofenforcingmyownopinions；butfrommanyyears\'experienceIhavecometotheconclusionthattheinhabitantsofacountryaregenerallybetterqualifiedthanstrangersforgivingpracticalopinionsupontheirownlocations。ThereisplentyofintelligenceinCyprus；thepeoplearenotsavages，buttheirfaultispoverty，thenaturalinheritanceofTurkishrule；andwe，theEnglish，havethepowertomakethemrich，andtorestoretheancientimportanceoftheisland。InEngland，atthetimethatIamwriting，moneyisnotworth2percent。owingtothegeneraldepressionoftrade；
themoney-markethasbeeninthisplethoricordropsicalstateforthelastthreeyears，andthereappearstobenohopeuponthecommercialhorizonofafavourablechange。InCyprustheresourcesaregreat，butthecapitaliswanting，andthestrangeanomalyispresentedthattheexchangeoftheBritishfortheTurkishflaghasnotincreasedpublicconfidence。Somethingmustbedonetochangethepresentstupor；ifCyprioteswereCandians(Cretans)theirvoiceswouldbeforciblyheard，andtheTurkishrulebeneaththeBritishuniformwouldbequicklyoverthrown。TheCypriote，down-troddenforcenturies，islikesoddentinderthatwillnotawakentothespark：heiswhatiscalled“easilygoverned；“whichmeansanabjectrace，inwhichallnobleaspirationshavebeenstampedoutbyyearsofunremittingoppressionandinjustice；
still，liketheCyprianox，heploughstheground。Itistheearthalonethatyieldstheworld\'swealth：ifwehavenootherthoughtsbutavarice，letustreattheCyprioteasweshouldhisanimal，andmakehimawealth-producer。Englandhasacquiredthereputationoftheciviliseroftheworld；itisinthischaracterthatwewereexpectedtoeffectamagicchangeinthepositionofCyprus；insteadofwhichwehavehithertopresentedamiserableresultofhalf-measures，whereirresolutionhasreducedthebrilliantpictureofourwidely-trumpetedpoliticalsurprisetoadull“arrangementinwhitey-brown“……whichisthepervadingtintoftheCypriansurfaceintheabsenceofartificialirrigation。
CHAPTERXV。
LIFEATTHEMONASTERYOFTROODITISSA。
ThelifeatourquietcampatTrooditissawasacompletecalm：therecouldnotbeamoresecludedspot，asnohumanhabitationwasnear，excepttheinvisiblevillageofPhynitwomilesdeepbeneath，atthemountain\'sbase。ThegoodoldmonkNeophitosknitted，andtaughthisboysalwaysinthesamedailyspot：theswallowsbuilttheirnestsundertheeavesofthemonasteryroofandbeneaththearchwhichcoveredinthespring，andsatindomesticflocksupontheover-hangingboughswithinafewfeetofourbreakfast-table，whentheiryoungcouldfly。
Nightingalessangbeforesunset，andbirdsofmanyvarietiesoccupiedthegreatwalnut-treeaboveourcamp，andmadetheearlymorningcheerfulwithachorusofdifferentsongs。Therewasnochangefromdaytoday，exceptintheprogressofthegardens；theplumsgrewlarge：themulberriesripenedinthelastweekofJuly，andtheshepherd\'sprettychildrenandthemonasteryboyswerecoveredwithredstains，asthoughfromabattlefield，astheydescendedfromtheattractiveboughs。Itwasaverypeacefulexistence，andIshalloftenlookbackwithpleasuretoourhermitagebythewallsoftheoldmonastery，whichaffordedamoralhavenfromallthestormsandtroublesthatembitterlife。OnSundayswesentamessengerfortheposttothemilitarycampatTroodos，aboutfiveandahalfmilesdistant，andthearrivaloflettersandnewspapersrestoredusforacoupleofdaystotheouterworld：afterwhichwerelapsedoncemoreintothelocalquiescentstateofcompleterest。Itmustnotbesupposedthatwewereidle；therewerealwaysoccupationswhichbydegreesIhopeimprovedtheplace，andtoacertaindegreethepeople。OccasionallyIaskedtheoldmonkstositandsmoketheircigarettesinour“rachkooba，“whentheysippedtheirhotcoffee，andexplaineddifficulttheologicalquestionstomyintenseedification；ofcourseIalwayslistened，butneverargued。MyparticularfriendoldNeophitostreatedmetolongstorieswhichheimaginedmustbenewandinteresting，especiallythehistoryofJosephandhisbrethren，whichheseveraltimesrecountedfrombeginningtoendwithtearsofsympathyinhiseyesatJoseph\'slovefortheyoungestbrotherBenjamin。TheGardenofEden，theDeluge，includingtheaccountofNoah\'sArk，andseveralequallymodernandentertainingstories，Ialwayslistenedtowithcommendableattention。Yeteveninthissolitude，wherethechapel-bellonSaturdaynight，andatdaybreakuponSundaymornings，wasinharmonywiththeexternalpeacefulsurroundings，anditappearedasthoughdiscordcouldneverenterthewallsofTrooditissa，theoldmonkshadtheircaresanddifficulties。
Theprincipalcauseoftroublewas“servants！”Iwasquitesurprised，asIthoughtwewerenearerheaveninthisspotthaninanyearthlylocalityIhadevervisited；butevenherethequestionof“servants“
wasanirritationtothenervesofthepatientmonks。Myownservantswereexcellent，andneverquarrelledorcomplained；theyappearedtohavebeenmesmerisedbytheplacidcharacteroftheirposition，andtohavebecomeangelic；especiallyinnotfatiguingthemselvesthroughover-exertion。Withthemonksthecasewasdifferent。Inthisquietretreat，wheremanreignedalone，asAdamintheGardenofEden；wherethecaresandanxietiesofmarriedlifewereunknownwithinthesacredwallsofcelibacy，asinglerepresentativeoftheothersexexistedintheubiquitousshapeofa“maidofallwork；“andasEvecausedthefirsttroubleintheworld，sothemonastery“maid“disturbedtheotherwisepeacefulexistenceofNeophitos。
