Theirinterestswerethus,tosomeextent,identifiedwiththoseofthecompany。
Severalartisanswerelikewisetosailintheship,forthesupplyofthecolony;butthemostpeculiarandcharacteristicpartofthismotleyembarkationconsistedofthirteenCanadian“voyageurs。”whohadenlistedforfiveyears。Asthisclassoffunctionarieswillcontinuallyrecurinthecourseofthefollowingnarrations,andastheyformoneofthosedistinctandstronglymarkedcastesorordersofpeople,springingupinthisvastcontinentoutofgeographicalcircumstances,orthevariedpursuits,habitudes,andoriginsofitspopulation,weshallsketchafewoftheircharacteristicsfortheinformationofthereader。
The“voyageurs“formakindofconfraternityintheCanadas,likethearrieros,orcarriersofSpain,and,likethem,areemployedinlonginternalexpeditionsoftravelandtraffic:withthisdifference,thatthearrierostravelbyland,thevoyageursbywater;theformerwithmulesandhorses,thelatterwithbatteauxandcanoes。Thevoyageursmaybesaidtohavesprungupoutofthefurtrade,havingoriginallybeenemployedbytheearlyFrenchmerchantsintheirtradingexpeditionsthroughthelabyrinthofriversandlakesoftheboundlessinterior。Theywerecoevalwiththecoureursdesbois,orrangersofthewoods,alreadynoticed,and,likethem,intheintervalsoftheirlong,arduous,andlaboriousexpeditions,werepronetopasstheirtimeinidlenessandrevelryaboutthetradingpostsorsettlements;
squanderingtheirhardearningsinheedlessconviviality,andrivalingtheirneighbors,theIndians,inindolentindulgenceandanimprudentdisregardofthemorrow。
WhenCanadapassedunderBritishdomination,andtheoldFrenchtradinghouseswerebrokenup,thevoyageurs,likethecoureursdesbois,wereforatimedisheartenedanddisconsolate,andwithdifficultycouldreconcilethemselvestotheserviceofthenew-
comers,sodifferentinhabits,manners,andlanguagefromtheirformeremployers。Bydegrees,however,theybecameaccustomedtothechange,andatlengthcametoconsidertheBritishfurtraders,andespeciallythemembersoftheNorthwestCompany,asthelegitimatelordsofcreation。
Thedressofthesepeopleisgenerallyhalfcivilized,halfsavage。Theywearacapotorsurcoat,madeofablanket,astripedcottonshirt,clothtrousers,orleathernleggins,moccasinsofdeer-skin,andabeltofvariegatedworsted,fromwhicharesuspendedtheknife,tobacco-pouch,andotherimplements。Theirlanguageisofthesamepiebaldcharacter,beingaFrenchpatois,embroideredwithIndianandEnglishwordsandphrases。
Thelivesofthevoyageursarepassedinwildandextensiverovings,intheserviceofindividuals,butmoreespeciallyofthefurtraders。TheyaregenerallyofFrenchdescent,andinheritmuchofthegayetyandlightnessofheartoftheirancestors,beingfullofanecdoteandsong,andeverreadyforthedance。Theyinherit,too,afundofcivilityandcomplaisance;and,insteadofthathardnessandgrossnesswhichmeninlaboriouslifeareapttoindulgetowardseachother,theyaremutuallyobligingandaccommodating;interchangingkindoffices,yieldingeachotherassistanceandcomfortineveryemergency,andusingthefamiliarappellationsof“cousin“and“brother“whenthereisinfactnorelationship。Theirnaturalgood-willisprobablyheightenedbyacommunityofadventureandhardshipintheirprecariousandwanderinglife。
Nomenaremoresubmissivetotheirleadersandemployers,morecapableofenduringhardship,ormoregood-humoredunderprivations。Neveraretheysohappyaswhenonlongandroughexpeditions,toilingupriversorcoastinglakes;encampingatnightontheborders,gossipingroundtheirfires,andbivouackingintheopenair。Theyaredextrousboatmen,vigorousandadroitwiththeoarandpaddle,andwillrowfrommorninguntilnightwithoutamurmur。ThesteersmanoftensingsanoldtraditionaryFrenchsong,withsomeregularburdeninwhichtheyalljoin,keepingtimewiththeiroars;ifatanytimetheyflaginspiritsorrelaxinexertion,itisbutnecessarytostrikeupasongofthekindtoputthemallinfreshspiritsandactivity。
TheCanadianwatersarevocalwiththeselittleFrenchchansons,thathavebeenechoedfrommouthtomouthandtransmittedfromfathertoson,fromtheearliestdaysofthecolony;andithasapleasingeffect,inastillgoldensummerevening,toseeabatteauglidingacrossthebosomofalakeanddippingitsoarstothecadenceofthesequaintoldditties,orsweepingalonginfullchorusonabrightsunnymorning,downthetransparentcurrentofoneoftheCanadarivers。
Butwearetalkingofthingsthatarefastfadingaway!Themarchofmechanicalinventionisdrivingeverythingpoeticalbeforeit。
Thesteamboats,whicharefastdispellingthewildnessandromanceofourlakesandrivers,andaidingtosubduetheworldintocommonplace,areprovingasfataltotheraceoftheCanadianvoyageursastheyhavebeentothatoftheboatmenoftheMississippi。Theirgloryisdeparted。Theyarenolongerthelordsofourinternalseas,andthegreatnavigatorsofthewilderness。Someofthemmaystilloccasionallybeseencoastingthelowerlakeswiththeirfrailbarks,andpitchingtheircampsandlightingtheirfiresupontheshores;buttheirrangeisfastcontractingtothoseremotewatersandshallowandobstructedriversunvisitedbythesteamboat。Inthecourseofyearstheywillgraduallydisappear;theirsongswilldieawayliketheechoestheyonceawakened,andtheCanadianvoyageurswillbecomeaforgottenrace,orremembered,liketheirassociates,theIndians,amongthepoeticalimagesofpasttimes,andasthemesforlocalandromanticassociations。
AninstanceofthebuoyanttemperamentandtheprofessionalprideofthesepeoplewasfurnishedinthegayandbraggartstyleinwhichtheyarrivedatNewYorktojointheenterprise。Theyweredeterminedtoregaleandastonishthepeopleofthe“States“withthesightofaCanadianboatandaCanadiancrew。Theyaccordinglyfittedupalargebutlightbarkcanoe,suchasisusedinthefurtrade;transporteditinawagonfromthebanksoftheSt。LawrencetotheshoresofLakeChamplain;traversedthelakeinit,fromendtoend;hoisteditagaininawagonandwheeleditofftoLansingburgh,andtherelaunchedituponthewatersoftheHudson。Downthisrivertheypliedtheircoursemerrilyonafinesummer’sday,makingitsbanksresoundforthefirsttimewiththeiroldFrenchboatsongs;passingbythevillageswithwhoopandhalloo,soastomakethehonestDutchfarmersmistakethemforacrewofsavages。Inthiswaytheyswept,infullsongandwithregularflourishofthepaddle,roundNewYork,inastillsummerevening,tothewonderandadmirationofitsinhabitants,whohadneverbeforewitnessedontheirwaters,anauticalapparitionofthekind。
SuchwasthevariegatedbandofadventurersabouttoembarkintheTonquinonthisardousanddoubtfulenterprise。Whileyetinportandondryland,inthebustleofpreparationandtheexcitementofnovelty,allwassunshineandpromise。TheCanadians,especially,who,withtheirconstitutionalvivacity,haveaconsiderabledashofthegascon,werebuoyantandboastful,andgreatbragartsastothefuture;whileallthosewhohadbeenintheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany,andengagedintheIndiantrade,plumedthemselvesupontheirhardihoodandtheircapacitytoendureprivations。IfMr。Astorventuredtohintatthedifficultiestheymighthavetoencounter,theytreatedthemwithscorn。Theywere“northwesters;“menseasonedtohardships,whocaredforneitherwindnorweather。Theycouldlivehard,liehard,sleephard,eatdogs!-inawordtheywerereadytodoandsufferanythingforthegoodoftheenterprise。
Withallthisprofessionofzealanddevotion,Mr。Astorwasnotoverconfidentofthestabilityandfirmfaithofthesemercurialbeings。Hehadreceivedinformation,also,thatanarmedbrigfromHalifax,probablyattheinstigationoftheNorthwestCompany,washoveringonthecoast,watchingfortheTonquin,withthepurposeofimpressingtheCanadiansonboardofher,asBritishsubjects,andthusinterruptingthevoyage。Itwasatimeofdoubtandanxiety,whentherelationsbetweentheUnitedStatesandGreatBritainweredailyassumingamoreprecariousaspectandvergingtowardsthatwarwhichshortlyensued。Asaprecautionarymeasure,therefore,herequiredthatthevoyageurs,astheywereabouttoenterintotheserviceofanAmericanassociation,andtoresidewithinthelimitsoftheUnitedStates,shouldtaketheoathsofnaturalizationasAmericancitizens。Tothistheyreadilyagreed,andshortlyafterwardassuredhimthattheyhadactuallydoneso。Itwasnotuntilaftertheyhadsailedthathediscoveredthattheyhadentirelydeceivedhiminthematter。
TheconfidenceofMr。Astorwasabusedinanotherquarter。Twoofthepartners,bothofthemScotchmen,andrecentlyintheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany,hadmisgivingsastoanenterprisewhichmightclashwiththeinterestsandestablishmentsprotectedbytheBritishflag。TheyprivatelywaitedupontheBritishminister,Mr。Jackson,theninNewYork,laidopentohimthewholeschemeofMr。Astor,thoughintrustedtotheminconfidence,anddependent,inagreatmeasure,uponsecrecyattheoutsetforitssuccess,andinquiredwhetherthey,asBritishsubjects,couldlawfullyengageinit。Thereplysatisfiedtheirscruples,whiletheinformationtheyimpartedexcitedthesurpriseandadmirationofMr。Jackson,thataprivateindividualshouldhaveconceivedandsetonfootathisownriskandexpensesogreatanenterprise。
ThissteponthepartofthosegentlemenwasnotknowntoMr。
Astoruntilsometimeafterwards,oritmighthavemodifiedthetrustandconfidencereposedinthem。
Toguardagainstanyinterruptiontothevoyagebythearmedbrig,saidtobeofftheharbor,Mr。AstorappliedtoCommodoreRodgers,atthattimecommandingatNewYork,togivetheTonquinsafeconvoyoffthecoast。Thecommodorehavingreceivedfromahighofficialsourceassuranceofthedeepinterestwhichthegovernmenttookintheenterprise,sentdirectionstoCaptainHull,atthattimecruisingofftheharbor,inthefrigateConstitution,toaffordtheTonquintherequiredprotectionwhensheshouldputtosea。
Beforethedayofembarkation,Mr。Astoraddressedaletterofinstructiontothefourpartnerswhoweretosailintheship。Inthisheenjoinedthem,inthemostearnestmanner,tocultivateharmonyandunanimity,andrecommendedthatalldifferencesofopinionsonpointsconnectedwiththeobjectsandinterestsofthevoyageshouldbediscussedbythewhole,anddecidedbyamajorityofvotes。He,moreover,gavethemespecialcautionastotheirconductonarrivingattheirdestinedport;exhortingthemtobecarefultomakeafavorableimpressionuponthewildpeopleamongwhomtheirlotandthefortunesoftheenterprisewouldbecast。“Ifyoufindthemkind。”saidhe,“asIhopeyouwill,besotothem。Ifotherwise,actwithcautionandforebearance,andconvincethemthatyoucomeasfriends。”
WiththesameanxiousforethoughthewrotealetterofinstructionstoCaptainThorn,inwhichheurgedthestrictestattentiontothehealthofhimselfandhiscrew,andtothepromotionofgood-humorandharmonyonboardhisship。“Topreventanymisunderstanding。”addedhe,“willrequireyourparticulargoodmanagement。”Hisletterclosedwithaninjunctionofwarinessinhisintercoursewiththenatives,asubjectonwhichMr。Astorwasjustlysensiblehecouldnotbetooearnest。
“Imustrecommendyou。”saidhe,“tobeparticularlycarefulonthecoast,andnottorelytoomuchonthefriendlydispositionofthenatives。AllaccidentswhichhaveasyethappenedtherearosefromtoomuchconfidenceintheIndians。”
Thereaderwillbeartheseinstructionsinmind,aseventswillprovetheirwisdomandimportance,andthedisasterswhichensuedinconsequenceoftheneglectofthem。
CHAPTERV。
SailingoftheTonquin-ARigidCommanderandaRecklessCrew-
LandsmenonShipboard-Fresh-WaterSailorsatSea-LubberNests-ShipFare-ALabradorVeteran-LiteraryClerks-
CuriousTravellers-RobinsonCrusoe’sIsland-Quarter-DeckQuarrels-FalklandIslands-AWild-GooseChase-PortEgmont-
EpitaphHunting-OldMortality-PenguinShooting-SportsmenLeftintheLurch-AHardPull-FurtherAltercations-ArrivalatOwyhee。
ONtheeighthofSeptember,1810,theTonquinputtosea,whereshewassoonjoinedbythefrigateConstitution。Thewindwasfreshandfairfromthesouthwest,andtheshipwassoonoutofsightoflandandfreefromtheapprehendeddangerofinterruption。Thefrigate,therefore,gaveher“Godspeed。”andlefthertohercourse。
TheharmonysoearnestlyenjoinedbyMr。Astoronthisheterogeneouscrew,andwhichhadbeensoconfidentlypromisedinthebuoyantmomentsofpreparation,wasdoomedtomeetwithacheckattheveryoutset。
CaptainThornwasanhonest,straighforward,butsomewhatdryanddictatorialcommander,who,havingbeennurturedinthesystemanddisciplineofashipofwar,andinasacredopinionofthesupremacyofthequarter-deck,wasdisposedtobeabsolutelordandmasteronboardofhisship。Heappears,moreover,tohavehadnogreatopinion,fromthefirst,ofthepersonsembarkedwithhim-HehadstoodbywithsurlycontemptwhiletheyvauntedsobravelytoMr。Astorofalltheycoulddoandalltheycouldundergo;howtheycouldfaceallweathers,putupwithallkindsoffare,andeveneatdogswitharelish,whennobetterfoodwastobehad。Hehadsetthemdownasasetoflandlubbersandbraggadocios,andwasdisposedtotreatthemaccordingly。Mr。
Astorwas,inhiseyes,hisonlyrealemployer,beingthefatheroftheenterprise,whofurnishedallfundsandborealllosses。
Theothersweremereagentsandsubordinates,wholivedathisexpense。Heevidentlyhadbutanarrowideaofthescopeandnatureoftheenterprise,limitinghisviewsmerelytohispartofit;everythingbeyondtheconcernsofhisshipwasoutofhissphere;andanythingthatinterferedwiththeroutineofhisnauticaldutiesputhiminapassion。
Thepartners,ontheotherhand,hadbeenbroughtupintheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany,andinaprofoundideaoftheimportance,dignity,andauthorityofapartner。TheyalreadybegantoconsiderthemselvesonaparwiththeM’Tavishes,theM’Gillivrays,theFrobishers,andtheothermagnatesoftheNorthwest,whomtheyhadbeenaccustomedtolookuptoasthegreatonesoftheearth;andtheywerealittledisposed,perhaps,toweartheirsuddenly-acquiredhonorswithsomeairofpretension。Mr。Astor,too,hadputthemontheirmettlewithrespecttothecaptain,describinghimasagunpowderfellowwhowouldcommandhisshipinfinestyle,and,iftherewasanyfightingtodo,would“blowalloutofthewater。”
Thuspreparedtoregardeachotherwithnoverycordialeye,itisnottobewonderedatthatthepartiessooncameintocollision。OntheveryfirstnightCaptainThornbeganhisman-
of-wardisciplinebyorderingthelightsinthecabintobeextinguishedateighto’clock。
Theprideofthepartnerswasimmediatelyinarms。Thiswasaninvasionoftheirrightsanddignitiesnottobeborne。Theywereonboardoftheirownship,andentitledtoconsulttheireaseandenjoyment。M’Dougalwasthechampionoftheircause。Hewasanactive,irritable,fuming,vaingloriouslittleman,andelevatedinhisownopinion,bybeingtheproxyofMr。Astor。A
violentaltercationensued,inthecourseofwhichThornthreatenedtoputthepartnersinironsshouldtheyproverefractory;uponwhichM’Dougalseizedapistolandsworetobethedeathofthecaptainshouldheeveroffersuchanindignity。
Itwassometimebeforetheirritatedpartiescouldbepacifiedbythemoretemperatebystanders。
Suchwasthecaptain’soutsetwiththepartners。Nordidtheclerksstandmuchhigherinhisgoodgraces;indeed,heseemstohaveregardedallthelandsmenonboardhisshipasakindofIivelumber,continuallyintheway。Thepoorvoyageurs,too,continuallyirritatedhisspleenbytheir“lubberly“andunseemlyhabits,soabhorrenttooneaccustomedtothecleanlinessofaman-of-war。Thesepoorfresh-watersailors,sovaingloriousonshore,andalmostamphibiouswhenonlakesandrivers,lostallheartandstomachthemomenttheywereatsea。Fordaystheysufferedthedolefulrigorsandretchingsofsea-sickness,lurkingbelowintheirberthsinsqualidstate,oremergingnowandthenlikespectresfromthehatchways,incapotesandblankets,withdirtynightcaps,grizzlybeard,lanternvisageandunhappyeye,shiveringaboutthedeck,andeverandanoncrawlingtothesidesofthevessel,andofferinguptheirtributestothewindward,toinfiniteannoyanceofthecaptain。
HisletterstoMr。Astor,whereinhepoursforththebitternessofhissoul,andhisseamanlikeimpatienceofwhatheconsidersthe“lubberly“characterandconductofthosearoundhim,arebeforeus,andareamusinglycharacteristic。Thehonestcaptainisfullofvexationonhisownaccount,andsolicitudeonaccountofMr。Astor,whosepropertyheconsidersatthemercyofamostheterogeneousandwastefulcrew。
Astotheclerks,hepronouncedthemmerepretenders,notoneofwhomhadeverbeenamongtheIndians,norfarthertothenorthwestthanMontreal,norofhigherrankthanbarkeeperofatavernormarkerofabilliard-table,exceptingone,whohadbeenaschool-master,andwhomheemphaticallysetsdownfor“asfoolishapedantaseverlived。”
ThenastotheartisansandlaborerswhohadbeenbroughtfromCanadaandshippedatsuchexpense,thethreemostrespectable,accordingtothecaptain’saccount,wereculprits,whohadfledfromCanadaonaccountoftheirmisdeeds;theresthadfiguredinMontrealasdraymen,barbers,waiters,andcarrioledrivers,andwerethemosthelpless,worthlessbeings“thateverbrokesea-
biscuit。”
Itmayeasilybeimaginedwhataseriesofmisunderstandingsandcross-purposeswouldbelikelytotakeplacebetweensuchacrewandsuchacommander。Thecaptain,inhiszealforthehealthandcleanlinessofhisship,wouldmakesweepingvisitationstothe“lubbernests“oftheunlucky“voyageurs“andtheircompanionsinmisery,ferretthemoutoftheirberths,makethemairandwashthemselvesandtheiraccoutrements,andobligethemtostiraboutbrisklyandtakeexercise。
Nordidhisdisgustandvexationceasewhenallhandshadrecoveredfromsea-sickness,andbecomeaccustomedtotheship,fornowbrokeoutanalarmingkeennessofappetitethatthreatenedhavoctotheprovisions。Whatespeciallyirritatedthecaptainwasthedaintinessofsomeofhiscabinpassengers。Theywereloudintheircomplaintsoftheship’sfare,thoughtheirtablewasservedwithfreshpork,hams,tongues,smokedbeef,andpuddings。“Whenthwartedintheircravingsfordelicacies。”Saidhe,“theywouldexclaimitwasd-dhardtheycouldnotliveastheypleasedupontheirownproperty,beingonboardoftheirownship,freightedwiththeirownmerchandise。Andthese。”addedhe,“arethefinefellowswhomadesuchboastthattheycould’eatdogs。’“
Inhisindignationatwhathetermedtheireffeminacy,hewouldswearthathewouldnevertakethemtoseaagain“withouthavingFly-marketontheforecastle,Covent-gardenonthepoop,andacoolspringfromCanadainthemaintop。“
Astheyproceededontheirvoyageandgotintothesmoothseasandpleasantweatherofthetropics,otherannoyancesoccurredtovexthespiritofthecaptain。Hehadbeencrossedbytheirritablemoodofoneofthepartners;hewasnowexcessivelyannoyedbythegood-humorofanother。ThiswastheelderStuart,whowasaneasysoul,andofasocialdisposition。HehadseenlifeinCanada,andonthecoastofLabrador;hadbeenafurtraderintheformer,andafishermanonthelatter;and,inthecourseofhisexperience,hadmadevariousexpeditionswithvoyageurs。Hewasaccustomed,therefore,tothefamiliaritywhichprevailsbetweenthatclassandtheirsuperiors,andthegossipingswhichtakeplaceamongthemwhenseatedroundafireattheirencampments。Stuartwasneversohappyaswhenhecouldseathimselfonthedeckwithanumberofthesemenroundhim,incampingstyle,smoketogether,passingthepipefrommouthtomouth,afterthemanneroftheIndians,singoldCanadianboat-
songs,andtellstoriesabouttheirhardshipsandadventures,inthecourseofwhichherivaledSinbadinhislongtalesofthesea,abouthisfishingexploitsonthecoastofLabrador。
Thisgossipingfamiliarityshockedthecaptain’snotionsofrankandsubordination,andnothingwassoabhorrenttohimasthecommunityofpipebetweenmasterandman,andtheirminglinginchorusintheoutlandishboat-songs。
Thentherewasanotherwhimsicalsourceofannoyancetohim。Someoftheyoungclerks,whoweremakingtheirfirstvoyage,andtowhomeverythingwasnewandstrange,were,veryrationally,inthehabitoftakingnotesandkeepingjournals。Thiswasasoreabominationtothehonestcaptain,whoheldtheirliterarypretensionsingreatcontempt。“Thecollectingofmaterialsforlonghistoriesoftheirvoyagesandtravels。”saidhe,inhislettertoMr。Astor,“appearstoengrossmostoftheirattention。”Wecanconceivewhatmusthavebeenthecrustyimpatienceoftheworthynavigator,when,onanytriflingoccurrenceinthecourseofthevoyage,quitecommonplaceinhiseyes,hesawtheseyounglandsmenrunningtorecorditintheirjournals;andwhatindignantglanceshemusthavecasttorightandleft,asheworriedaboutthedeck,givingouthisordersforthemanagementoftheship,surroundedbysinging,smoking,gossiping,scribblinggroups,all,ashethought,intentupontheamusementofthepassinghour,insteadofthegreatpurposesandinterestsofthevoyage。
Itispossiblethecaptainwasinsomedegreerightinhisnotions。Thoughsomeofthepassengershadmuchtogainbythevoyage,noneofthemhadanythingpositivelytolose。Theyweremostlyyoungmen,intheheydayoflife;andhavinggotintofinelatitudes,uponsmoothseas,withawell-storedshipunderthem,andafairwindintheshoulderofthesail,theyseemedtohavegotintoaholidayworld,andweredisposedtoenjoyit。Thatcravingdesire,naturaltountravelledmenoffreshandlivelyminds,toseestrangelands,andtovisitscenesfamousinhistoryorfable,wasexpressedbysomeofthepartnersandclerks,withrespecttosomeofthestoriedcoastsandislandsthatlaywithintheirroute。Thecaptain,however,whoregardedeverycoastandislandwithamatter-of-facteye,andhadnomoreassociationsconnectedwiththemthanthoselaiddowninhissea-
chart,consideredallthiscuriosityasexceedinglyidleandchildish。“Inthefirstpartofthevoyage。”saysheinhisletter,“theyweredeterminedtohaveitsaidtheyhadbeeninAfrica,andthereforeinsistedonstoppingattheCapedeVerdes。
NexttheysaidtheshipshouldstoponthecoastofPatagonia,fortheymustseethelargeanduncommoninhabitantsofthatplace。ThentheymustgototheislandwhereRobinsonCrusoehadsolonglived。Andlastly,theyweredeterminedtoseethehandsomeinhabitantsofEasterIsland。”
Toalltheseresolves,thecaptainopposedhisperemptoryveto,as“contrarytoinstructions。”Thenwouldbreakforthanunavailingexplosionofwrathonthepartofcertainofthepartners,inthecourseofwhichtheydidnotevenspareMr。
Astorforhisactofsupererogationinfurnishingordersforthecontroloftheshipwhiletheywereonboard,insteadofleavingthemtobethejudgeswhereitwouldbebestforhertotouch,andhowlongtoremain。ThecholericM’Dougaltooktheleadintheserailings,being,ashasbeenobserved,alittlepuffedupwiththeideaofbeingMr。Astor’sproxy。
Thecaptain,however,becameonlysomuchthemorecrustyanddoggedinhisadherencetohisorders,andtouchyandharshinhisdealingswiththepassengers,andfrequentaltercationsensued。Hemayinsomemeasurehavebeeninfluencedbyhisseamanlikeimpatienceoftheinterferenceoflandsmen,andhishighnotionsofnavaletiquetteandquarter-deckauthority;butheevidentlyhadanhonest,trustyconcernfortheinterestsofhisemployer。Hepicturedtohimselftheanxiousprojectoroftheenterprise,whohaddisbursedsomunificentlyinitsoutfit,calculatingonthezeal,fidelity,andsinglenessofpurposeofhisassociatesandagents;whilethey,ontheotherhand,havingagoodshipattheirdisposalandadeeppocketathometobearthemout,seemedreadytoloiteroneverycoast,andamusethemselvesineveryport。
OnthefourthofDecembertheycameinsightoftheFalklandIslands。Havingbeenforsometimeonanallowanceofwater,itwasresolvedtoanchorhereandobtainasupply。Aboatwassentintoasmallbaytotakesoundings。Mr。M’DougalandMr。M’Kaytookthisoccasiontogoonshore,butwitharequestfromthecaptainthattheywouldnotdetaintheship。Onceonshore,however,theywereinnohastetoobeyhisorders,butrambledaboutinsearchofcuriosities。Theanchorageprovingunsafe,andwaterdifficulttobeprocured,thecaptainstoodouttosea,andmaderepeatedsignalsforthoseonshoretorejointheship,butitwasnotuntilnineatnightthattheycameonboard。
Thewindbeingadverse,theboatwasagainsentonshoreonthefollowingmorning,andthesamegentlemenagainlanded,butpromisedtocomeoffatamoment’swarning;theyagainforgottheirpromiseintheireagerpursuitofwildgeeseandseawolves。
Afteratimethewindhauledfair,andsignalsweremadefortheboat。Halfanhourelapsedbutnoboatputoff。Thecaptainreconnoiteredtheshorewithhisglass,and,tohisinfinitevexation,sawtheloiterersinthefullenjoymentoftheir“wildgoose-chase。”Nettledtothequick,heimmediatelymadesail。Whenthoseonshoresawtheshipactuallyunderway,theyembarkedwithallspeed,buthadahardpullofeightmilesbeforetheygotonboard,andthenexperiencedbutagrimreception,notwithstandingthattheycamewellladenwiththespoilsofthechase。
Twodaysafterwards,ontheseventhofDecember,theyanchoredatFortEgmont,inthesameisland,wheretheyremainedfourdaystakinginwaterandmakingrepairs。Thiswasajoyoustimeforthelandsmen。Theypitchedatentonshore,hadaboatattheircommand,andpassedtheirtimemerrilyinramblingabouttheisland,andcoastingalongtheshores,shootingsealions,seals,foxes,geese,ducks,andpenguins。NonewerekeenerinpursuitofthiskindofgamethanM’DougalandDavidStuart;thelatterwasremindedofaquaticsportsonthecoastofLabrador,andhishuntingexploitsintheNorthwest。
Inthemeantimethecaptainaddressedhimselfsteadilytothebusinessofhisship,scorningtheholidayspiritanduselesspursuitsofhisemancipatedmessmates,andwarningthem,fromtimetotime,nottowanderawaynorbeoutofhail。Theypromised,asusual,thattheshipshouldneverexperienceamoment’sdetentionontheiraccount,but,asusual,forgottheirpromise。
Onthemorningofthe11th,therepairsbeingallfinished,andthewatercasksreplenished,thesignalwasgiventoembark,andtheshipbegantoweighanchor。Atthistimeseveralofthepassengersweredispersedabouttheisland,amusingthemselvesinvariousways。Someoftheyoungmenhadfoundtwoinscriptions,inEnglish,overaplacewheretwounfortunatemarinershadbeenburiedinthisdesertisland。Astheinscriptionswerewornoutbythetimeandweather,theywereplayingthepartof“OldMortality。”andpiouslyrenewingthem。Thesignalfromtheshipsummonedthemfromtheirlabors;theysawthesailsunfurled,andthatshewasgettingunderway。Thetwosportingpartners,however,Mr。M’DougalandDavidStuart,hadstrolledawaytothesouthoftheislandinpursuitofpenguins。Itwouldneverdotoputoffwithoutthem,astherewasbutoneboattoconveythewhole。
Whilethisdelaytookplaceonshore,thecaptainwasstormingonboard。Thiswasthethirdtimehisordershadbeentreatedwithcontempt,andtheshipwantonlydetained,anditshouldbethelast;sohespreadallsailandputtosea,swearinghewouldleavethelaggardstoshiftforthemselves。Itwasinvainthatthoseonboardmaderemonstrancesandentreaties,andrepresentedthehorrorsofabandoningmenuponasterileanduninhabitedisland;thesturdycaptainwasinflexible。
Inthemeantimethepenguinhuntershadjoinedtheengraversoftombstones,butnotbeforetheshipwasalreadyoutatsea。Theyall,tothenumberofeight,threwthemselvesintotheirboat,whichwasabouttwentyfeetinlength,androwedwithmightandmain。Forthreehoursandahalfdidtheytuganxiouslyandseverelyattheoar,swashedoccasionallybythesurgingwavesoftheopensea,whiletheshipinexorablykeptonhercourse,andseemeddeterminedtoleavethembehind。
OnboardtheshipwasthenephewofDavidStuart,ayoungmanofspiritandresolution。Seeing,ashethought,thecaptainobstinatelybentuponabandoninghisuncleandtheothers,heseizedapistol,andinaparoxysmofwrathsworehewouldblowoutthecaptain’sbrains,unlessheputaboutorshortenedsail。
Fortunatelyforallparties,thewindjustthencameahead,andtheboatwasenabledtoreachtheship;otherwise,disastrouscircumstancesmighthaveensued。Wecanhardlybelievethatthecaptainreallyintendedtocarryhisthreatintofulleffect,andratherthinkhemeanttoletthelaggardsoffforalongpullandaheartyfright。Hedeclared,however,inhislettertoMr。
Astor,thathewasseriousinhisthreats,andthereisnoknowinghowfarsuchanironmanmaypushhisnotionsofauthority。
“Hadthewind。”writeshe,“(unfortunately)nothauledaheadsoonafterleavingtheharbor’smouth,Ishouldpositivelyhaveleftthem;and,indeed,Icannotbutthinkitanunfortunatecircumstanceforyouthatitsohappened,forthefirstlossinthisinstancewould,inmyopinion,haveprovedthebest,astheyseemtohavenoideaofthevalueofproperty,noranyapparentregardforyourinterest,althoughinterwovenwiththeirown。”
This,itmustbeconfessed,wasactingwithahighhand,andcarryingaregardtotheowner’spropertytoadangerouslength。
Variouspettyfeudsoccurredalsobetweenhimandthepartnersinrespecttothegoodsonboardship,somearticlesofwhichtheywishedtodistributeforclothingamongthemen,orforotherpurposeswhichtheydeemedessential。Thecaptain,however,keptamastiffwatchuponthecargo,andgrowledandsnappediftheybutofferedtotouchboxorbale。“Itwascontrarytoorders;itwouldforfeithisinsurance;itwasoutofallrule。”Itwasinvaintheyinsistedupontheirrighttodoso,aspartowners,andasactingforthegoodoftheenterprise;thecaptainonlystucktohispointthemorestanchly。Theyconsoledthemselves,therefore,bydeclaring,thatassoonastheymadeland,theywouldasserttheirrights,anddowithshipandcargoastheypleased。
Besidethesefeudsbetweenthecaptainandthepartners,therewerefeudsbetweenthepartnersthemselves,occasioned,insomemeasure,byjealousyofrank。M’DougalandM’Kaybegantodrawplansforthefort,andotherbuildingsoftheintendedestablishment。Theyagreedverywellastotheoutlineanddimensions,whichwereonasufficientlygrandscale;butwhentheycametoarrangethedetails,fiercedisputesarose,andtheywouldquarrelbythehouraboutthedistributionofthedoorsandwindows。Manywerethehardwordsandhardnamesbandiedbetweenthemontheseoccasions,accordingtothecaptain’saccount。Eachaccusedtheotherofendeavoringtoassumeunwarrantablepower,andtakethelead;uponwhichMr。M’DougalwouldvauntinglylaydownMr。Astor’sletter,constitutinghimhisrepresentativeandproxy,adocumentnottobedisputed。
Thesewordycontests,thoughviolent,werebrief;“andwithinfifteenminutes。”saysthecaptain,“theywouldbecaressingeachotherlikechildren。”
WhileallthispettyanarchywasagitatingthelittleworldwithintheTonquin,thegoodshipprosperouslypursuedhercourse,doubledCapeHornonthe25thofDecember,careeredacrossthebosomofthePacific,until,onthe11thofFebruary,thesnowypeaksofOwyheewereseenbrighteningabovethehorizon。
CHAPTERVI。
Owyhee-SandwichIslanders-TheirNauticalTalents-Tamaahmaah-
HisNavy-HisNegotiations-ViewsofMr。AstorWithRespecttotheSandwichIslands-Karakakooa-RoyalMonopolyofPork-
DescriptionoftheIslanders-GayetiesonShore-ChronicleroftheIsland-PlaceWhereCaptainCookwasKilled-JohnYoung,aNauticalGovernor-HisStory-Waititi-ARoyalResidence-A
RoyalVisit-GrandCeremonials-CloseDealing-ARoyalPorkMerchant-GrievancesofaMatter-of-FactMan。
OWYHEE,orHawaii,asitiswrittenbymoreexactorthographers,isthelargestofthecluster,teninnumber,oftheSandwichIslands。Itisaboutninety-sevenmilesinlength,andseventy-
eightinbreadth,risinggraduallyintothreepyramidalsummitsorcones;thehighest,MounaRoa,beingeighteenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea,soastodomineeroverthewholearchipelago,andtobealandmarkoverawideextentofocean。ItremainsalastingmonumentoftheenterprisingandunfortunateCaptainCook,whowasmurderedbythenativesofthisisland。
TheSandwichIslanders,whenfirstdiscovered,evincedacharactersuperiortomostofthesavagesofthePacificisles。
Theywerefrankandopenintheirdeportment,friendlyandliberalintheirdealings,withanaptingenuityapparentinalltheirrudeinventions。
Thetragicalfateofthediscoverer,which,foratime,broughtthemunderthechargeofferocity,was,infact,theresultofsuddenexasperation,causedbytheseizureoftheirchief。
AtthetimeofthevisitoftheTonquin,theislandershadprofited,inmanyrespects,byoccasionalintercoursewithwhitemen;andhadshownaquicknesstoobserveandcultivatethoseartsimportanttotheirmodeofliving。Originallytheyhadnomeansofnavigatingtheseasbywhichtheyweresurrounded,superiortolightpirogues,whichwerelittlecompetenttocontendwiththestormsofthebroadocean。Astheislandersarenotinsightofeachother,therecould,therefore,bebutcasualintercoursebetweenthem。Thetrafficwithwhitemenhadputtheminpossessionofvesselsofsuperiordescription;theyhadmadethemselvesacquaintedwiththeirmanagement,andhadevenmaderudeadvancesintheartofship-building。
Theseimprovementshadbeenpromoted,inagreatmeasure,bytheenergyandsagacityofoneman,thefamousTamaahmaah。Hehadoriginallybeenapettyeri,orchief;but,beingofanintrepidandaspiringnature,hehadriseninrank,and,availinghimselfofthesuperioradvantagesnowaffordedinnavigation,hadbroughtthewholearchipelagoinsubjectiontohisarms。AtthetimeofthearrivaloftheTonquinhehadaboutfortyschooners,offromtwentytothirtytonsburden,andoneoldAmericanship。
Withtheseheheldundisputedswayoverhisinsulardomains,andcarriedonintercoursewiththechiefsorgovernorswhomhehadplacedincommandoftheseveralislands。
Thesituationofthisgroupofislands,farinthebosomofthevastPacific,andtheirabundantfertility,renderthemimportantstopping-placesonthehighwaytoChina,ortothenorthwestcoastofAmerica。Herethevesselsengagedinthefurtradetouchedtomakerepairsandprocureprovisions;andheretheyoftenshelteredthemselvesduringthewintersthatoccurredintheirlongcoastingexpeditions。
TheBritishnavigatorswere,fromthefirst,awareofthevalueoftheseislandstothepurposesofcommerce;andTamaahmaah,notlongafterhehadattainedthesovereignsway,waspersuadedbyVancouver,thecelebrateddiscoverer,toacknowledge,onbehalfofhimself,andsubjects,allegiancetothekingofGreatBritain。ThereadercannotbutcalltomindthevisitwhichtheroyalfamilyandcourtoftheSandwichIslandswas,inlateyears,inducedtomaketothecourtofSt。James;andtheserio-
comicceremonialsandmockparadewhichattendedthatsingulartravestyofmonarchalstyle。
ItwasapartofthewideandcomprehensiveplanofMr。Astortoestablishafriendlyintercoursebetweentheseislandsandhisintendedcolony,whichmight,foratime,haveoccasiontodrawsuppliesthence;andheevenhadavagueideaof,sometimeorother,gettingpossessionofoneoftheirislandsasarendezvousforhisships,andalinkinthechainofhiscommercialestablishments。
Ontheeveningofthe12thofFebruary,theTonquinanchoredinthebayofKarakakooa,intheislandofOwyhee。Thesurroundingshoreswerewildandbroken,withoverhangingcliffsandprecipicesofblackvolcanicrock。Beyondthese,however,thecountrywasfertileandwellcultivated,withinclosuresofyams,plantains,sweetpotatoes,sugar-canes,andotherproductionsofwarmclimatesandteemingsoils;andthenumeroushabitationsofthenativeswerepleasantlyshelteredbeneathclumpsofcocoanutandbread-fruittrees,whichaffordedbothfoodandshade。Thismingledvarietyofgardenandgrovesweptgraduallyupthesidesofthemountains,untilsucceededbydenseforests,whichinturngaveplacetonakedandcraggyrocks,untilthesummitsroseintotheregionsofperpetualsnow。
TheroyalresidenceofTamaahmaahwasatthistimeatanotherislandnamedWoahoo。TheislandofOwyheewasunderthecommandofoneofhiseris,orchiefs,whoresidedatthevillageofTocaigh,situatedonadifferentpartofthecoastfromthebayofKarakakooa。
Onthemorningafterherarrival,theshipwassurroundedbycanoesandpirogues,filledwiththeislandersofbothsexes,bringingoffsuppliesoffruitsandvegetables,bananas,plantains,watermelons,yams,cabbagesandtaro。Thecaptainwasdesirous,however,ofpurchasinganumberofhogs,buttherewerenonetobehad-Thetradeinporkwasaroyalmonopoly,andnosubjectofthegreatTamaahmaahdaredtomeddlewithit。Suchprovisionsastheycouldfurnish,however,werebroughtbythenativesinabundance,andalivelyintercoursewaskeptupduringtheday,inwhichthewomenmingledinthekindestmanner。
Theislandersareacomelyrace,ofacoppercomplexion。Themenaretallandwellmade,withformsindicatingstrengthandactivity;thewomenwithregularandoccasionallyhandsomefeatures,andalasciviousexpression,characteristicoftheirtemperament。TheirstyleofdresswasnearlythesameasinthedaysofCaptainCook。Themenworethemaro,abandonefootinwidthandseveralfeetinlength,swathedroundtheloins,andformedoftappa,orclothofbark;thekihei,ormantle,aboutsixfeetsquare,tiedinaknotoveroneshoulder,passedundertheoppositearm,soastoleaveitbare,andfallingingracefulfoldsbeforeandbehind,totheknee,soastobearsomeresemblancetoaRomantoga。
Thefemaledressconsistedofthepau,agarmentformedofapieceoftappa,severalyardsinlengthandoneinwidth,wrappedroundthewaist,andreachinglikeapetticoat,totheknees。
Overthiskihei,ormantle,largerthanthatofthemen,sometimeswornoverbothshoulders,likeashawl,sometimesoveroneonly。Thesemantleswereseldomwornbyeithersexduringtheheatoftheday,whentheexposureoftheirpersonswasatfirstveryrevoltingtoacivilizedeye。
Towardseveningseveralofthepartnersandclerkswentonshore,wheretheywerewellreceivedandhospitablyentertained。Adancewasperformedfortheiramusement,inwhichnineteenyoungwomenandonemanfiguredverygracefully,singinginconcert,andmovingtothecadenceoftheirsong。
Allthis,however,wasnothingtothepurposeintheeyesofCaptainThorn,who,beingdisappointedinhishopeofobtainingasupplyofpork,orfindinggoodwater,wasanxioustobeoff。
Thisitwasnotsoeasytoeffect。Thepassengers,onceonshore,weredisposed,asusual,toprofitbytheoccasion。Thepartnershadmanyinquiriestomakerelativetotheisland,withaviewtobusiness;whiletheyoungclerksweredelightedwiththecharmsandgracesofthedancingdamsels。
Toaddtotheirgratifications,anoldmanofferedtoconductthemtothespotwhereCaptainCookwasmassacred。Thepropositionwaseagerlyaccepted,andallhandssetoutonapilgrimagetotheplace。Theveteranislanderperformedhispromisefaithfully,andpointedouttheveryspotwheretheunfortunatediscovererfell。Therocksandcocoa-treesaroundborerecordofthefact,inthemarksoftheballsfiredfromtheboatsuponthesavages。Thepilgrimsgatheredroundtheoldman,anddrewfromhimalltheparticularshehadtorelaterespectingthismemorableevent;whilethehonestcaptainstoodbyandbithisnailswithimpatience。Toaddtohisvexation,theyemployedthemselvesinknockingoffpiecesoftherocks,andcuttingoffthebarkofthetreesmarkedbytheballs,whichtheyconveyedbacktotheshipaspreciousrelics。
Rightglad,therefore,washetogetthemandtheirtreasuresfairlyonboard,whenhemadesailfromthisunprofitableplace,andsteeredfortheBayofTocaigh,theresidenceofthechieforgovernoroftheisland,wherehehopedtobemoresuccessfulinobtainingsupplies。Oncomingtoanchorthecaptainwentonshore,accompaniedbyMr。M’DougalandMr。M’Kay,andpaidavisittothegovernor。Thisdignitaryprovedtobeanoldsailor,bythenameofJohnYoung;who,afterbeingtossedabouttheseaslikeanotherSinbad,had,byoneofthewhimsicalfreaksoffortune,beenelevatedtothegovernmentofasavageisland。Hereceivedhisvisitorswithmoreheartyfamiliaritythanpersonagesinhishighstationareapttoindulge,butsoongavethemtounderstandthatprovisionswerescantyatTocaigh,andthattherewasnogoodwater,norainhavingfallenintheneighborhoodinthreeyears。
Thecaptainwasimmediatelyforbreakinguptheconferenceanddeparting,butthepartnerswerenotsowillingtopartwiththenauticalgovernor,whoseemeddisposedtobeextremelycommunicative,andfromwhomtheymightbeabletoprocuresomeusefulinformation。Alongconversationaccordinglyensued,inthecourseofwhichtheymademanyinquiriesabouttheaffairsoftheislands,theirnaturalproductions,andthepossibilityofturningthemtoadvantageinthewayoftrade;nordidtheyfailtoinquireintotheindividualhistoryofJohnYoung,andhowhecametobegovernor。Thishegavewithgreatcondescension,runningthroughthewholecourseofhisfortunes“evenfromhisboyishdays。”
HewasanativeofLiverpool,inEngland,andhadfollowedtheseafromboyhood,until,bydintofgoodconduct,hehadrisensofarinhisprofessionastobeboatswainofanAmericanshipcalledtheEleanor,commandedbyCaptainMetcalf。Inthisvesselhehadsailedin1789,ononeofthosecasualexpeditionstothenorthwestcoast,inquestoffurs。Inthecourseofthevoyage,thecaptainleftasmallschooner,namedtheFairAmerican,atNootka,withacrewoffivemen,commandedbyhisson,ayouthofeighteen。ShewastofollowoninthetrackoftheEleanor。
InFebruary,1790,CaptainMetcalftouchedattheislandofMowee,oneoftheSandwichgroup。Whileanchoredhere,aboatwhichwasasternoftheEleanorwasstolen,andaseamanwhowasinitwaskilled。Thenatives,generally,disclaimedtheoutrage,andbroughttheshatteredremainsoftheboatandthedeadbodyoftheseamantotheship。Supposingthattheyhadthusappeasedtheangerofthecaptain,theythronged,asusual,ingreatnumbersaboutthevessel,totrade。CaptainMetcalf,however,determinedonabloodyrevenge。TheEleanormountedtenguns。Alltheseheorderedtobeloadedwithmusket-balls,nails,andpiecesofoldiron,andthenfiredthem,andthesmallarmsoftheship,amongthenatives。Thehavocwasdreadful;morethanahundred,accordingtoYoung’saccount,wereslain。
Afterthissignalactofvengeance,CaptainMetcalfsailedfromMowee,andmadefortheislandofOwyhee,wherehewaswellreceivedbyTamaahmaah。Thefortunesofthiswarlikechiefwereatthattimeontherise。Hehadoriginallybeenofinferiorrank,rulingoveronlyoneortwodistrictsofOwyhee,buthadgraduallymadehimselfsovereignofhisnativeisland。
TheEleanorremainedsomefewdaysatanchorhere,andanapparentlyfriendlyintercoursewaskeptupwiththeinhabitants。
Onthe17thMarch,JohnYoungobtainedpermissiontopassthenightonshore。Onthefollowingmorningasignal-gunsummonedhimtoreturnonboard。
Hewenttotheshoretoembark,butfoundallthecanoeshauleduponthebeachandrigorouslytabooed,orinterdicted。Hewouldhavelaunchedonehimself,butwasinformedbyTamaahmaahthatifhepresumedtodosohewouldbeputtodeath。
Youngwasobligedtosubmit,andremainedalldayingreatperplexitytoaccountforthismysterioustaboo,andfearfulthatsomehostilitywasintended。Intheeveninghelearnedthecauseofit,andhisuneasinesswasincreased。ItappearedthatthevindictiveactofCaptainMetcalfhadrecoileduponhisownhead。
TheschoonerFairAmerican,commandedbyhisson,followinginhistrack,hadfallenintothehandsofthenativestothesouthwardofTocaighBay,andyoungMetcalfandfourofthecrewhadbeenmassacred。
Onreceivingintelligenceofthisevent,Tamaahmaahhadimmediatelytabooedallthecanoes,andinterdictedallintercoursewiththeship,lestthecaptainshouldlearnthefateoftheschooner,andtakehisrevengeupontheisland。ForthesamereasonhepreventedYoungfromrejoininghiscountrymen。TheEleanorcontinuedtofiresignalsfromtimetotimefortwodays,andthensailed;concluding,nodoubt,thattheboatswainhaddeserted。
JohnYoungwasindespairwhenhesawtheshipmakesail;andfoundhimselfabandonedamongsavages;-andsavages,too,sanguinaryintheircharacter,andinflamedbyactsofhostility。
Hewasagreeablydisappointed,however,inexperiencingnothingbutkindtreatmentfromTamaahmaahandhispeople。Itistrue,hewasnarrowlywatchedwheneveravesselcameinsight,lestheshouldescapeandrelatewhathadpassed;butatothertimeshewastreatedwithentireconfidenceandgreatdistinction。Hebecameaprimefavorite,cabinetcounsellor,andactivecoadjutorofTamaahmaah,attendinghiminallhisexcursions,whetherofbusinessorpleasure,andaidinginhiswarlikeandambitiousenterprises。Bydegreesherosetotherankofachief,espousedoneofthebeautiesoftheisland,andbecamehabituatedandreconciledtohisnewwayoflife;thinkingitbetter,perhaps,toruleamongsavagesthanserveamongwhitemen;tobeafeatheredchiefthanatarpaulinboatswain。HisfavorwithTamahmaah,neverdeclined;andwhenthatsagacious,intrepid,andaspiringchieftainhadmadehimselfsovereignoverthewholegroupofislands,andremovedhisresidencetoWoahoo,helefthisfaithfuladherentJohnYoungincommandofOwyhee。
SuchisanoutlineofthehistoryofGovernorYoung,asfurnishedbyhimself;andweregretthatwearenotabletogiveanyaccountofthestatemaintainedbythisseafaringworthy,andthemannerinwhichhedischargedhishighfunctions;thoughitisevidenthehadmoreoftheheartyfamiliarityoftheforecastlethanthedignityofthegubernatorialoffice。
Theselongconferenceswerebittertrialstothepatienceofthecaptain,whohadnorespecteitherforthegovernororhisisland,andwasanxioustopushoninquestofprovisionsandwater。Assoonashecouldgethisinquisitivepartnersoncemoreonboard,heweighedanchor,andmadesailfortheislandofWoahoo,theroyalresidenceofTamaahmaah。
ThisisthemostbeautifulislandoftheSandwichgroup。Itisforty-sixmilesinlengthandtwenty-threeinbreadth。Aridgeofvolcanicmountainsextendsthroughthecentre,risingintoloftypeaks,andskirtedbyundulatinghillsandrichplains,wherethecabinsofthenativespeepoutfrombeneathgrovesofcocoanutandotherluxurianttrees。
Onthe21stofFebruarytheTonquincastanchorinthebeautifulbaybeforethevillageofWaititi,(pronouncedWhyteetee。)theabodeofTamaahmaah。Thisvillagecontainedabouttwohundredhabitations,composedofpolessetintheground,tiedtogetherattheends,andthatchedwithgrass,andwassituatedinanopengroveofcocoanuts。TheroyalpalaceofTamaahmaahwasalargehouseoftwostories;thelowerofstone,theupperofwood。
Roundthishisbody-guardkeptwatch,composedoftwenty-fourmeninlongbluecassocks,turnedupwithyellow,andeacharmedwithamusket。
Whileatanchoratthisplace,muchceremoniousvisitingandlongconferencestookplacebetweenthepotentateoftheislandsandthepartnersofthecompany。Tamaahmaahcameonboardoftheshipinroyalstyle,inhisdoublepirogue。Hewasbetweenfiftyandsixtyyearsofage,abovethemiddlesize,largeandwellmade,thoughsomewhatcorpulent。Hewasdressedinanoldsuitofregimentals,withaswordbyhisside,andseemedsomewhatembarrassedbyhismagnificentattire。Threeofhiswivesaccompaniedhim。Theywerealmostastall,andquiteascorpulentashimself;butbynomeanstobecomparedwithhimingrandeurofhabiliments,wearingnoothergarbthanthepan。Withhim,also,camehisgreatfavoriteandconfidentialcounseller,Kraimaker;who,fromholdingapostequivalenttothatofprimeminister,hadbeenfamiliarlynamedBillyPittbytheBritishvisitorstotheislands。
Thesovereignwasreceivedwithbefittingceremonial。TheAmericanflagwasdisplayed,fourgunswerefired,andthepartnersappearedinscarletcoats,andconductedtheirillustriousgueststothecabin,wheretheywereregaledwithwine。Inthisinterviewthepartnersendeavoredtoimpressthemonarchwithasenseoftheirimportance,andoftheimportanceoftheassociationtowhichtheybelonged。Theylethimknowthattheywereeris,orchiefs,ofagreatcompanyabouttobeestablishedonthenorthwestcoast,andtalkedoftheprobabilityofopeningatradewithhisislands,andofsendingshipsthereoccasionally。Allthiswasgratifyingandinterestingtohim,forhewasawareoftheadvantagesoftrade,anddesirousofpromotingfrequentintercoursewithwhitemen。HeencouragedEuropeansandAmericanstosettleinhisislandsandintermarrywithhissubjects。Therewerebetweentwentyandthirtywhitemenatthattimeresidentintheisland,butmanyofthemweremerevagabonds,whoremainedthereinhopesofleadingalazyandaneasylife。ForsuchTamaahmaahhadagreatcontempt;thoseonlyhadhisesteemandcountenancewhoknewsometradeormechanicart,andweresoberandindustrious。
Onthedaysubsequenttothemonarch’svisit,thepartnerslandedandwaiteduponhiminreturn。Knowingtheeffectofshowanddressuponmeninsavagelife,andwishingtomakeafavorableimpressionastheeris,orchiefs,ofthegreatAmericanFurCompany,someofthemappearedinHighlandplaidsandkiltstothegreatadmirationofthenatives。
Whilevisitsofceremonyandgranddiplomaticconferencesweregoingonbetweenthepartnersandtheking,thecaptain,inhisplain,matter-of-factway,waspushingwhatheconsideredafarmoreimportantnegotiation;thepurchaseofasupplyofhogs。Hefoundthatthekinghadprofitedinmorewaysthanonebyhisintercoursewithwhitemen。Aboveallotherartshehadlearnedtheartofdrivingabargain。Hewasamagnanimousmonarch,butashrewdporkmerchant;andperhapsthoughthecouldnotdobetterwithhisfutureallies,theAmericanFurCompany,thantobeginbyclosedealing。Severalinterviewswererequisite,andmuchbargaining,beforehecouldbebroughttopartwithabristleofhisbacon,andthenheinsisteduponbeingpaidinhardSpanishdollars;givingasareasonthathewantedmoneytopurchaseafrigatefromhisbrotherGeorge,asheaffectionatelytermedthekingofEngland。*
Atlengththeroyalbargainwasconcluded;thenecessarysupplyofhogsobtained,besidesseveralgoats,twosheep,aquantityofpoultry,andvegetablesinabundance。Thepartnersnowurgedtorecruittheirforcesfromthenativesofthisisland。Theydeclaredtheyhadneverseenwatermenequaltothem,evenamongthevoyageursoftheNorthwest;and,indeed,theyareremarkablefortheirskillinmanagingtheirlightcraft,andcanswimanddivelikewaterfowl。Thepartnerswereinclined,therefore,totakethirtyorfortywiththemtotheColumbia,tobeernployedintheserviceofthecompany。Thecaptain,however,objectedthattherewasnotroominhisvesselfortheaccommodationofsuchanumber。Twelve,only,werethereforeenlistedforthecompany,andasmanymorefortheserviceoftheship。Theformerengagedtoserveforthetermofthreeyears,during,whichtheyweretobefedandclothed;andattheexpirationofthetimeweretoreceiveonehundreddollarsinmerchandise。
Andnow,havingembarkedhislive-stock,fruits,vegetables,andwater,thecaptainmadereadytosetsail。Howmuchthehonestmanhadsufferedinspiritbywhatheconsideredthefreaksandvagariesofhispassengers,andhowlittlehehadunderstoodtheirhumorsandintentions,isamusinglyshowninaletterwrittentoMr。AstorfromWoahoo,whichcontainshiscommentsonthesceneswehavedescribed。
“Itwouldbedifficult。”hewrites,“toimaginethefranticgambolsthataredailyplayedoffhere;sometimesdressinginredcoats,andotherwiseveryfantastically,andcollectinganumberofignorantnativesaroundthem,tellingthemthattheyarethegreaterisoftheNorthwest,andmakingarrangementsforsendingthreeorfourvesselsyearlytothemfromthecoastwithspars,&c。;whilethoseverynativescannotevenfurnishahogtotheship。ThendressinginHighlandplaidsandkilts,andmakingsimilararrangements,withpresentsofrum,wine,oranythingthatisathand。ThentakinganumberofclerksandmenonshoretotheveryspotonwhichCaptainCookwaskilled,andeachfetchingoffapieceoftherockortreethatwastouchedbytheshot。Thensittingdownwithsomewhitemanorsomenativewhocanbealittleunderstood,andcollectingthehistoryofthoseislands,ofTamaahmaah’swars,thecuriositiesoftheislands,&c。,preparatorytothehistoriesoftheirvoyages;andthecollectionisindeedridiculouslycontemptible。Toenumeratethethousandinstancesofignorance,filth,&c。,-ortoparticularizeallthefranticgambolsthataredailypracticed,wouldrequireVolumes。
Beforeembarking,thegreaterisoftheAmericanFurCompanytookleaveoftheirillustriousallyinduestyle,withmanyprofessionsoflastingfriendshipandpromisesoffutureintercourse;whilethematter-of-factcaptainanathematizedhiminhisheartforagrasping,traffickingsavage;asshrewdandsordidinhisdealingsasawhiteman。Asoneofthevesselsofthecompanywill,inthecourseofevents,havetoappealtothejusticeandmagnanimityofthisislandpotentate,weshallseehowfarthehonestcaptainwasrightinhisopinion。
*Itappears,fromtheaccountsofsubsequentvoyagers,thatTamaahmaahafterwardssucceededinhiswishofpurchasingalargeship。Inthishesentacargoofsandal-woodtoCanton,havingdiscoveredthattheforeignmerchantstradingwithhimmadelargeprofitsonthiswood,shippedbythemfromtheislandstotheChinesemarkets。Theshipwasmannedbynatives,buttheofficerswereEnglishmen。Sheaccomplishedhervoyage,andreturnedinsafetytotheislands,withtheHawaiianflagfloatinggloriouslyinthebreeze。Thekinghastenedonboard,expectingtofindhissandal-woodconvertedintocrapesanddamasks,andotherrichstuffsofChina,butfound,tohisastonishment,bythelegerdemainoftraffic,hiscargohadalldisappeared,and,inplaceofit,remainedabillofchargesamountingtothreethousanddollars。Itwassometimebeforehecouldbemadetocomprehendcertainofthemostimportantitemsofthebill,suchaspilotage,anchorage,andcustom-housefees;butwhenhediscoveredthatmaritimestatesinothercountriesderivedlargerevenuesinthismanner,tothegreatcostofthemerchant,“Well。”criedhe,“thenIwillhaveharborfeesalso。”Heestablishedthemaccordingly。Pilotageadollarafootonthedraftofeachvessel。Anchoragefromsixtytoseventydollars。Inthiswayhegreatlyincreasedtheroyalrevenue,andturnedhisChinaspeculationtoaccount。
CHAPTERVII。
DepartureFromtheSandwichIslands-Misunderstandings-MiseriesofaSuspiciousMan-ArrivalattheColumbia-DangerousService-GloomyApprehensions-BarsandBreakers-PerilsoftheShip。DisastersofaBoat’sCrew-BurialofaSandwichIslander。
ITwasonthe28thofFebruarythattheTonquinsetsailfromtheSandwichIslands。Fortwodaysthewindwascontrary,andthevesselwasdetainedintheirneighborhood;atlengthafavorablebreezesprangup,andinalittlewhiletherichgroves,greenhills,andsnowypeaksofthosehappyislandsoneafteranothersankfromsight,ormeltedintothebluedistance,andtheTonquinploughedhercoursetowardsthesternerregionsofthePacific。
Themisunderstandingsbetweenthecaptainandhispassengersstillcontinued;orrather,increasedingravity。Byhisaltercationsandhismoodyhumors,hehadcuthimselfofffromallcommunityofthought,orfreedomofconversationwiththem。
Hedisdainedtoaskquestionsastotheirproceedings,andcouldonlyguessatthemeaningoftheirmovements,andinsodoingindulgedinconjecturesandsuspicions,whichproducedthemostwhimsicalself-torment。
Thus,inoneofhisdisputeswiththem,relativetothegoodsonboard,someofthepackagesofwhichtheywishedtoopen,totakeoutarticlesofclothingforthemenorpresentsforthenatives,hewassoharshandperemptorythattheylostallpatience,andhintedthattheywerethestrongestparty,andmightreducehimtoaveryridiculousdilemma,bytakingfromhimthecommand。
Athoughtnowflashedacrossthecaptain’smindthattheyreallyhadaplantodeposehim,andthat,havingpickedupsomeinformationatOwyhee,possiblyofwarbetweentheUnitedStatesandEngland,theymeanttoalterthedestinationofthevoyage;
perhapstoseizeuponshipandcargofortheirownuse。
Oncehavingconceivedthissuspicion,everythingwenttofosterit。Theyhaddistributedfire-armsamongsomeoftheirmen,acommonprecautionamongthefurtraderswhenminglingwiththenatives。This,however,lookedlikepreparation。Thenseveralofthepartnersandclerksandsomeofthemen,beingScotsmen,wereacquaintedwiththeGaelic,andheldlongconversationstogetherinthatlanguage。Theseconversationswereconsideredbythecaptainofa“mysteriousandunwarrantednature。”andrelated,nodoubt,tosomefoulconspiracythatwasbrewingamongthem。Hefranklyavowssuchsuspicions,inhislettertoMr。Astor,butintimatesthathestoodreadytoresistanytreasonousoutbreak;
andseemstothinkthattheevidenceofpreparationonhisparthadaneffectinoverawingtheconspirators。
Thefactis,aswehavesincebeeninformedbyoneoftheparties,itwasamischievouspleasurewithsomeofthepartnersandclerks,whowereyoungmen,toplayuponthesuspicioustemperandsplenetichumorsofthecaptain。Tothiswemayascribemanyoftheirwhimsicalpranksandabsurdpropositions,and,aboveall,theirmysteriouscolloquiesinGaelic。
Inthissoreandirritablemooddidthecaptainpursuehiscourse,keepingawaryeyeoneverymovement,andbristlingupwheneverthedetestedsoundoftheGaeliclanguagegrateduponhisear。Nothingoccurred,however,materiallytodisturbtheresidueofthevoyageexceptingaviolentstorm;andonthetwenty-secondofMarch,theTonquinarrivedatthemouthoftheOregon,orColumbiaRiver。
Theaspectoftheriverandtheadjacentcoastwaswildanddangerous。ThemouthoftheColumbiaisupwardsoffourmileswidewithapeninsulaandpromontoryononeside,andalonglowspitoflandontheother;betweenwhichasandbarandchainofbreakersalmostblocktheentrance。Theinteriorofthecountryrisesintosuccessiverangesofmountains,which,atthetimeofthearrivaloftheTonquin,werecoveredwithsnow。
Afreshwindfromthenorthwestsentaroughtumblingseauponthecoast,whichbrokeuponthebarinfurioussurges,andextendedasheetoffoamalmostacrossthemouthoftheriver。
Underthesecircumstancesthecaptaindidnotthinkitprudenttoapproachwithinthreeleagues,untilthebarshouldbesoundedandthechannelascertained。Mr。Fox,thechiefmate,wasorderedtothisserviceinthewhaleboat,accompaniedbyJohnMartin,anoldseaman,whohadformerlyvisitedtheriver,andbythreeCanadians。Foxrequestedtohaveregularsailorstomantheboat,butthecaptainwouldnotsparethemfromtheserviceoftheship,andsupposedtheCanadians,beingexpertboatmenonlakesandrivers,werecompetenttotheservice,especiallywhendirectedandaidedbyFoxandMartin。Foxseemstohavelostallfirmnessofspiritontheoccasion,andtohaveregardedtheservicewithamisgivingheart。Hecametothepartnersforsympathy,knowingtheirdifferenceswiththecaptain,andthetearswereinhiseyesasherepresentedhiscase。“Iamsentoff。”saidhe,“withoutseamentomanmyboat,inboisterousweather,andonthemostdangerouspartofthenorthwestcoast。
Myunclewaslostafewyearsagoonthissamebar,andIamnowgoingtolaymybonesalongsideofhis。”Thepartnerssympathizedinhisapprehensions,andremonstratedwiththecaptain。Thelatter,however,wasnottobemoved。HehadbeendispleasedwithMr。Foxintheearlierpartofthevoyage,consideringhimindolentandinactive;andprobablythoughthispresentrepugnancearosefromawantoftruenauticalspirit。Theinterferenceofthepartnersinthebusinessoftheship,also,wasnotcalculatedtohaveafavorableeffectonasticklerforauthoritylikehimself,especiallyinhisactualstateoffeelingtowardsthem。
Atoneo’clock,P。m。,therefore,Foxandhiscomradessetoffinthewhaleboat,whichisrepresentedassmallinsize,andcrazyincondition。Alleyeswerestrainedafterthelittlebarkasitpulledforshore,risingandsinkingwiththehugerollingwaves,untilitentered,amerespeck,amongthefoamingbreakers,andwassoonlosttoview。Eveningsetin,nightsucceededandpassedaway,andmorningreturned,butwithoutthereturnoftheboat。
Asthewindhadmoderated,theshipstoodneartotheland,soastocommandaviewoftheriver’smouth。Nothingwastobeseenbutawildchaosoftumblingwavesbreakinguponthebar,andapparentlyformingafoamingbarrierfromshoretoshore。Towardsnighttheshipagainstoodouttogainsea-room,andagloomwasvisibleineverycountenance。Thecaptainhimselfsharedinthegeneralanxiety,andprobablyrepentedofhisperemptoryorders。
Anotherwearyandwatchfulnightsucceeded,duringwhichthewindsubsided,andtheweatherbecameserene。
Onthefollowingday,theshiphavingdriftedneartheland,anchoredinfourteenfathomswater,tothenorthwardofthelongpeninsulaorpromontorywhichformsthenorthsideoftheentrance,andiscalledCapeDisappointment。Thepinnacewasthenmanned,andtwoofthepartners,Mr。DavidStuartandMr。M’Kay,setoffinthehopeoflearningsomethingofthefateofthewhaleboat。Thesurf,however,brokewithsuchviolencealongtheshorethattheycouldfindnolandingplace。Severalofthenativesappearedonthebeachandmadesignstothemtorowroundthecape,buttheythoughtitmostprudenttoreturntotheship。
Thewindnowspringingup,theTonquingotunderway,andstoodintoseekthechannel;butwasagaindeterredbythefrightfulaspectofthebreakers,fromventuringwithinaleague。Hereshehoveto;andMr。Mumford,thesecondmate,wasdespatchedwithfourhands,inthepinnace,tosoundacrossthechanneluntilheshouldfindfourfathomsdepth。Thepinnaceenteredamongthebreakers,butwasnearbeinglost,andwithdifficultygotbacktotheship。ThecaptaininsistedthatMr。Mumfordhadsteeredtoomuchtothesouthward。HenowturnedtoMr。Aiken,anablemariner,destinedtocommandtheschoonerintendedforthecoastingtrade,andorderedhim,togetherwithJohnColes,sail-
maker,StephenWeekes,armorer,andtwoSandwichIslanders,toproceedaheadandtakesoundings,whiletheshipshouldfollowundereasysail。InthiswaytheyproceededuntilAikenhadascertainedthechannel,whensignalwasgivenfromtheshipforhimtoreturnonboard。Hewasthenwithinpistolshot,butsofuriouswasthecurrent,andtumultuousthebreakers,thattheboatbecameunmanageable,andwashurriedaway,thecrewcryingoutpiteouslyforassistance。Inafewmomentsshecouldnotbeseenfromtheship’sdeck。Someofthepassengersclimbedtothemizzentop,andbeheldherstillstrugglingtoreachtheship;
butshortlyaftershebroachedbroadsidetothewaves,andhercaseseemeddesperate。Theattentionofthoseonboardoftheshipwasnowcalledtotheirownsafety。Theywereinshallowwater;thevesselstruckrepeatedly,thewavesbrokeoverher,andtherewasdangerofherfoundering。Atlengthshegotintosevenfathomswater,andthewindlulling,andthenightcomingon,castanchor。Withthedarknesstheiranxietiesincreased。Thewindwhistled,thesearoared,thegloomwasonlybrokenbytheghastlyglareofthefoamingbreakers,themindsoftheseamenwerefullofdrearyapprehensions,andsomeofthemfanciedtheyheardthecriesoftheirlostcomradesminglingwiththeuproaroftheelements。Foratime,too,therapidlyebbingtidethreatenedtosweepthemfromtheirprecariousanchorage。Atlengththerefluxofthetide,andthespringingupofthewind,enabledthemtoquittheirdangeroussituationandtakeshelterinasmallbaywithinCapeDisappointment,wheretheyrodeinsafetyduringtheresidueofastormynight,andenjoyedabriefintervalofrefreshingsleep。
Withthelightofdayreturnedtheircaresandanxieties。Theylookedoutfromthemast-headoverawildcoast,andwildersea,butcoulddiscovernotraceofthetwoboatsandtheircrewsthatweremissing。Severalofthenativescameonboardwithpeltries,buttherewasnodispositiontotrade。Theywereinterrogatedbysignsafterthelostboats,butcouldnotunderstandtheinquiries。
PartiesnowWentonshoreandscouredtheneighborhood。Oneofthesewasheadedbythecaptain。Theyhadnotproceededfarwhentheybeheldapersonatadistanceincivilizedgarb。AshedrewnearheprovedtobeWeekes,thearmorer。Therewasaburstofjoy,foritwashopedhiscomradeswerenearathand。Hisstory,however,wasoneofdisaster。Heandhiscompanionshadfounditimpossibletogoverntheirboat,havingnorudder,andbeingbesetbyrapidandwhirlingcurrentsandboisteroussurges。Afterlongstrugglingtheyhadlethergoatthemercyofthewaves,tossingabout,sometimeswithherbow,sometimeswithherbroadsidetothesurges,threatenedeachinstantwithdestruction,yetrepeatedlyescaping,untilahugeseabrokeoverandswampedher。Weekeswasoverwhelmedbythebroilingwaves,butemergingabovethesurface,lookedroundforhiscompanions。
AikenandColeswerenottobeseen;nearhimwerethetwoSandwichIslanders,strippingthemselvesoftheirclothingthattheymightswimmorefreely。Hedidthesame,andtheboatfloatingneartohimheseizedholdofit。Thetwoislandersjoinedhim,and,unitingtheirforces,theysucceededinturningtheboatuponherkeel;thenbearingdownhersternandrockingher,theyforcedoutsomuchwaterthatshewasabletobeartheweightofamanwithoutsinking。Oneoftheislandersnowgotin,andinalittlewhilebailedoutthewaterwithhishands。Theotherswamaboutandcollectedtheoars,andtheyallthreegotoncemoreonboard。
Bythistimethetidehadsweptthembeyondthebreakers,andWeekescalledonhiscompanionstorowforland。Theyweresochilledandbenumbedbythecold,however,thattheylostallheart,andabsolutelyrefused。Weekeswasequallychilled,buthadsuperiorsagacityandself-command。Hecounteractedthetendencytodrowsinessandstuporwhichcoldproducesbykeepinghimselfinconstantexercise;andseeingthatthevesselwasadvancing,andthateverythingdependeduponhimself,hesettoworktosculltheboatclearofthebar,andintoquietwater。
Towardmidnightoneofthepoorislandersexpired;hiscompanionthrewhimselfonhiscorpseandcouldnotbepersuadedtoleavehim。Thedismalnightworeawayamidstthesehorrors:asthedaydawned,Weekesfoundhimselfneartheland。Hesteereddirectlyforit,andatlength,withtheaidofthesurf,ranhisboathighuponasandybeach。
FindingthatoneoftheSandwichIslandersyetgavesignsoflife,heaidedhimtoleavetheboat,andsetoutwithhimtowardstheadjacentwoods。Thepoorfellow,however,wastoofeebletofollowhim,andWeekeswassoonobligedtoabandonhimtohisfateandprovideforhisownsafety。Fallinguponabeatenpath,hepursuedit,andafterafewhourscametoapartofthecoast,where,tohissurpriseandjoy,hebeheldtheshipatanchorandwasmetbythecaptainandhisparty。
AfterWeekeshadrelatedhisadventures,threepartiesweredespatchedtobeatupthecoastinsearchoftheunfortunateislander。Theyreturnedatnightwithoutsuccess,thoughtheyhadusedtheutmostdiligence。Onthefollowingdaythesearchwasresumed,andthepoorfellowwasatlengthdiscoveredlyingbeneathagroupofrocks,hislegsswollen,hisfeettornandbloodyfromwalkingthroughbushesandbriars,andhimselfhalf-
deadwithcold,hunger,andfatigue。Weekesandthisislanderweretheonlysurvivorsofthecrewofthejolly-boat,andnotracewaseverdiscoveredofFoxandhisparty。Thuseightmenwerelostonthefirstapproachtothecoast;acommencementthatcastagloomoverthespiritsofthewholeparty,andwasregardedbysomeofthesuperstitiousasanomenthatbodednogoodtotheenterprise。
TowardsnighttheSandwichIslanderswentonshore,toburythebodyoftheirunfortunatecountrymanwhohadperishedintheboat。Onarrivingattheplacewhereithadbeenleft,theydugagraveinthesand,inwhichtheydepositedthecorpse,withabiscuitunderoneofthearms,somelardunderthechin,andasmallquantityoftobacco,asprovisionsforitsjourneyinthelandofspirits。Havingcoveredthebodywithsandandflints,theykneeledalongthegraveinadoublerow,withtheirfacesturnedtotheeast,whileonewhoofficiatedasapriestsprinkledthemwithwaterfromahat。Insodoingherecitedakindofprayerorinvocation,towhich,atintervals,theothersmaderesponses。Suchwerethesimpleritesperformedbythesepoorsavagesatthegraveoftheircomradeontheshoresofastrangeland;andwhentheseweredone,theyroseandreturnedinsilencetotheship,withoutoncecastingalookbehind。
CHAPTERVIII。
MouthoftheColumbia-TheNativeTribes-TheirFishing-TheirCanoes-BoldNavigators-EquestrianIndiansandPiscatoryIndians,DifferenceinTheirPhysicalOrganization-SearchforaTradingSite-ExpeditionofM’DougalandDavidStuart-
Comcomly,theOneEyedChieftain-InfluenceofWealthinSavageLife-SlaveryAmongtheNatives-AnAristocracyofFlatheads-
HospitalityAmongtheChinooks-Comcomly’sDaughter-HerConquest。
THEColumbia,orOregon,forthedistanceofthirtyorfortymilesfromitsentranceintothesea,is,properlyspeaking,amereestuary,indentedbydeepbayssoastovaryfromthreetosevenmilesinwidth;andisrenderedextremelyintricateanddangerousbyshoalsreachingnearlyfromshoretoshore,onwhich,attimes,thewindsandcurrentsproducefoamingandtumultuousbreakers。Themouthoftheriverproperisbutabouthalfamilewide,formedbythecontractingshoresoftheestuary。Theentrancefromthesea,aswehavealreadyobserved,isboundedonthesouthsidebyaflatsandyspitofland,stretchingintotheocean。ThisiscommonlycalledPointAdams。
Theopposite,ornorthernside,isCapeDisappointment;akindofpeninsula,terminatinginasteepknollorpromontorycrownedwithaforestofpine-trees,andconnectedwiththemainlandbyalowandnarrowneck。Immediatelywithinthiscapeisawide,openbay,terminatingatChinookPoint,socalledfromaneighboringtribeofIndians。ThiswascalledBaker’sBay,andheretheTonquinwasanchored。
Thenativesinhabitingthelowerpartoftheriver,andwithwhomthecompanywaslikelytohavethemostfrequentintercourse,weredividedatthistimeintofourtribes,theChinooks,Clatsops,Wahkiacums,andCathlamahs。Theyresembledeachotherinperson,dress,language,andmanner;andwereprobablyfromthesamestock,butbrokenintotribes,orratherhordes,bythosefeudsandschismsfrequentamongIndians。
Thesepeoplegenerallylivebyfishing。Itistruetheyoccasionallyhunttheelkanddeer,andensnarethewater-fowloftheirpondsandrivers,butthesearecasualluxuries。TheirchiefsubsistenceisderivedfromthesalmonandotherfishwhichaboundintheColumbiaanditstributarystreams,aidedbyrootsandherbs,especiallythewappatoo,whichisfoundontheislandsoftheriver。
AstheIndiansoftheplainswhodependuponthechaseareboldandexpertriders,andpridethemselvesupontheirhorses,sothesepiscatorytribesofthecoastexcelinthemanagementofcanoes,andarenevermoreathomethanwhenridinguponthewaves。Theircanoesvaryinformandsize。Someareupwardsoffiftyfeetlong,cutoutofasingletree,eitherfirorwhitecedar,andcapableofcarryingthirtypersons。Theyhavethwartpiecesfromsidetosideaboutthreeinchesthick,andtheirgunwalesflareoutwards,soastocastoffthesurgesofthewaves。Thebowandsternaredecoratedwithgrotesquefiguresofmenandanimals,sometimesfivefeetinheight。
Inmanagingtheircanoestheykneeltwoandtwoalongthebottom,sittingontheirheels,andwieldingpaddlesfromfourtofivefeetlong,whileonesitsonthesternandsteerswithapaddleofthesamekind。Thewomenareequallyexpertwiththemeninmanagingthecanoe,andgenerallytakethehelm。
Itissurprisingtoseewithwhatfearlessunconcernthesesavagesventureintheirlightbarksupontheroughestandmosttempestuousseas。Theyseemtorideuponthewaveslikesea-fowl。