第3章

类别:其他 作者:Washington Irving字数:33594更新时间:18/12/21 16:57:53
Shouldasurgethrowthecanoeuponitssideandendangeritsoverturn,thosetowindwardleanovertheuppergunwale,thrusttheirpaddlesdeepintothewave,apparentlycatchthewaterandforceitunderthecanoe,andbythisactionnotmerelyregainIIIanequilibrium,butgivetheirbarkavigorousimpulseforward。 TheeffectofdifferentmodesoflifeuponthehumanframeandhumancharacterisstrikinglyinstancedinthecontrastbetweenthehuntingIndiansoftheprairies,andthepiscatoryIndiansofthesea-coast。Theformer,continuallyonhorsebackscouringtheplains,gainingtheirfoodbyhardyexercise,andsubsistingchieflyonflesh,aregenerallytall,sinewy,meagre,butwellformed,andofboldandfiercedeportment:thelatter,loungingabouttheriverbanks,orsquattingandcurvedupintheircanoes,aregenerallylowinstature,ill-shaped,withcrookedlegs,thickankles,andbroadflatfeet。Theyareinferioralsoinmuscularpowerandactivity,andingamequalitiesandappearance,totheirhard-ridingbrethrenoftheprairies。 HavingpremisedthesefewparticularsconcerningtheneighboringIndians,wewillreturntotheimmediateconcernsoftheTonquinandhercrew。 FurthersearchwasmadeforMr。Foxandhisparty,butwithnobettersuccess,andtheywereatlengthgivenupaslost。Inthemeantime,thecaptainandsomeofthepartnersexploredtheriverforsomedistanceinalargeboat,toselectasuitableplaceforthetradingpost。Theiroldjealousiesanddifferencescontinued; theynevercouldcoincideintheirchoice,andthecaptainobjectedaltogethertoanysitesohighuptheriver。Theyallreturned,therefore,toBaker’sBayinnoverygoodhumor。Thepartnersproposedtoexaminetheoppositeshore,butthecaptainwasimpatientofanyfurtherdelay。Hiseagernessto“geton“hadincreaseduponhim。Hethoughtalltheseexcursionsasheerlossoftime,andwasresolvedtolandatonce,buildashelterforthereceptionofthatpartofhiscargodestinedfortheuseofthesettlement,and,havingclearedhisshipofitandofhisirksomeshipmates,todepartupontheprosecutionofhiscoastingvoyage,accordingtoorders。 Onthefollowingday,therefore,withouttroublinghimselftoconsultthepartners,helandedinBaker’sBay,andproceededtoerectashedforthereceptionoftherigging,equipments,andstoresoftheschoonerthatwastobebuiltfortheuseofthesettlement。 ThisdoggeddeterminationonthepartofthesturdycaptaingavehighoffensetoMr。M’Dougal,whonowconsideredhimselfattheheadoftheconcern,asMr。Astor’srepresentativeandproxy。Hesetoffthesameday,(April5th)accompaniedbyDavidStuart,forthesouthernshore,intendingtobebackbytheseventh。Nothavingthecaptaintocontendwith,theysoonpitcheduponaspotwhichappearedtothemfavorablefortheintendedestablishment。 ItwasonapointoflandcalledPointGeorge,havingaverygoodharbor,wherevessels,notexceedingtwohundredtonsburden,mightanchorwithinfiftyyardsoftheshore。 Afteradaythusprofitablyspent,theyrecrossedtheriver,butlandedonthenorthernshoreseveralmilesabovetheanchoringgroundoftheTonquin,intheneighborhoodofChinooks,andvisitedthevillageofthattribe。Heretheywerereceivedwithgreathospitalitybythechief,whowasnamedComcomly,ashrewdoldsavage,withbutoneeye,whowilloccasionallyfigureinthisnarrative。Eachvillageformsapettysovereignty,governedbyitsownchief,who,however,possessesbutlittleauthority,unlesshebeamanofwealthandsubstance;thatistosay,possessedofcanoe,slaves,andwives。Thegreaterthenumberofthese,thegreateristhechief。Howmanywivesthisone-eyedpotentatemaintainedwearenottold,buthecertainlypossessedgreatsway,notmerelyoverhisowntribe,butovertheneighborhood。 Havingmentionedslaves,wewouldobservethatslaveryexistsamongseveralofthetribesbeyondtheRockyMountains。Theslavesarewelltreatedwhileingoodhealth,butoccupiedinallkindsofdrudgery。Shouldtheybecomeuseless,however,bysicknessoroldage,theyaretotallyneglected,andlefttoperish;norisanyrespectpaidtotheirbodiesafterdeath。 Asingularcustomprevails,notmerelyamongtheChinooks,butamongmostofthetribesaboutthispartofthecoast,whichistheflatteningoftheforehead。Theprocessbywhichthisdeformityiseffectedcommencesimmediatelyafterbirth。Theinfantislaidinawoodentrough,bywayofcradle。Theendonwhichtheheadreposesishigherthantherest。Apaddingisplacedontheforeheadoftheinfant,withapieceofbarkaboveit,andispresseddownbycords,whichpassthroughholesoneachsideofthetrough。Asthetighteningofthepaddingandthepressingoftheheadtotheboardisgradual,theprocessissaidnottobeattendedwithmuchpain。Theappearanceoftheinfant,however,whileinthisstateofcompression,iswhimsicallyhideous,and“itslittleblackeyes。”wearetold,“beingforcedoutbythetightnessofthebandages,resemblethoseofamousechokedinatrap。” Aboutayear’spressureissufficienttoproducethedesiredeffect,attheendofwhichtimethechildemergesfromitsbandagesacompleteflathead,andcontinuessothroughlife。Itmustbenotedthatthisflatteningoftheheadhassomethinginitofaristocraticalsignificancy,likethecripplingofthefeetamongtheChineseladiesofquality。Atanyrate,itisasignoffreedom。Noslaveispermittedtobestowthisenviabledeformityuponhischild;alltheslaves,therefore,areroundheads。 WiththisworthytribeofChinooksthetwopartnerspassedapartofthedayveryagreeably。M’Dougal,whowassomewhatvainofhisofficialrank,hadgivenittobeunderstoodthattheyweretwochiefsofagreattradingcompany,abouttobeestablishedhere,andthequick-sighted,thoughone-eyedchief,whowassomewhatpracticedintrafficwithwhitemen,immediatelyperceivedthepolicyofcultivatingthefriendshipoftwosuchimportantvisitors。Heregaledthem,therefore,tothebestofhisability,withabundanceofsalmonandwappatoo。Thenextmorning,April7th,theypreparedtoreturntothevessel,accordingtopromise。 Theyhadelevenmilesofopenbaytotraverse;thewindwasfresh,thewavesranhigh。Comcomlyremonstratedwiththemonthehazardtowhichtheywouldbeexposed。Theywereresolute,however,andlaunchedtheirboat,whilethewarychieftainfollowedatsomeshortdistanceinhiscanoe。Scarcehadtheyrowedamile,whenawavebrokeovertheirboatandupsetit。 Theywereinimminentperilofdrowning,especiallyMr。M’Dougal,whocouldnotswim。Comcomly,however,cameboundingoverthewavesinhislightcanoe,andsnatchedthemfromawaterygrave。 Theyweretakenonshoreandafiremade,atwhichtheydriedtheirclothes,afterwhichComcomlyconductedthembacktohisvillage。Hereeverythingwasdonethatcouldbedevisedfortheirentertainmentduringthreedaysthattheyweredetainedbybadweather。Comcomlymadehispeopleperformanticsbeforethem;andhiswivesanddaughtersendeavored,byallthesoothingandendearingartsofwomen,tofindfavorintheireyes。Someevenpaintedtheirbodieswithredclay,andanointedthemselveswithfishoil,togiveadditionallustretotheircharms。Mr。M’Dougalseemstohavehadaheartsusceptibletotheinfluenceofthegentlersex。Whetherornoitwasfirsttouchedonthisoccasionwedonotlearn;butitwillbefound,inthecourseofthiswork,thatoneofthedaughtersofthehospitableComcomlyeventuallymadeaconquestofthegreaterioftheAmericanFurCompany。 Whentheweatherhadmoderatedandtheseabecametranquil,theone-eyedchiefoftheChinooksmannedhisstatecanoe,andconductedhisguestsinsafetytotheship,wheretheywerewelcomedwithjoy,forapprehensionshadbeenfeltfortheirsafety。ComcomlyandhispeoplewerethenentertainedonboardoftheTonquin,andliberallyrewardedfortheirhospitalityandservices。Theyreturnedhomehighlysatisfied,promisingtoremainfaithfulfriendsandalliesofthewhitemen。 CHAPTERIX。 PointGeorge-FoundingofAstoria-IndianVisitors-TheirReception-TheCaptainTaboostheShip-DepartureoftheTonquin-CommentsontheConductofCaptainThorn。 FROMthereportmadebythetwoexploringpartners,itwasdeterminedthatPointGeorgeshouldbethesiteofthetradinghouse。Thesegentlemen,itistrue,werenotperfectlysatisfiedwiththeplace,andweredesirousofcontinuingtheirsearch;butCaptainThornwasimpatienttolandhiscargoandcontinuehisvoyage,andprotestedagainstanymoreofwhathetermed“sportingexcursions。” Accordingly,onthe12thofAprilthelaunchwasfreightedwithallthingsnecessaryforthepurpose,andsixteenpersonsdepartedinhertocommencetheestablishment,leavingtheTonquintofollowassoonastheharborcouldbesounded。 Crossingthewidemouthoftheriver,thepartylanded,andencampedatthebottomofasmallbaywithinPointGeorge。Thesituationchosenforthefortifiedpostwasonanelevationfacingtothenorth,withthewideestuary,itssandbarsandtumultuousbreakersspreadoutbeforeit,andthepromontoryofCapeDisappointment,fifteenmilesdistant,closingtheprospecttotheleft。Thesurroundingcountrywasinallthefreshnessofspring;thetreeswereintheyoungleaf,theweatherwassuperb,andeverythinglookeddelightfultomenjustemancipatedfromalongconfinementonshipboard。TheTonquinshortlyafterwardsmadeherwaythroughtheintricatechannel,ancametoanchorinthelittlebay,andwassalutedfromtheencampmentwiththreevolleysofmusketryandthreecheers。Shereturnedthesalutewiththreecheersandthreeguns。 Allhandsnowsettoworkcuttingdowntrees,clearingawaythickets,andmarkingouttheplacefortheresidence,storehouse,andpowdermagazine,whichweretobebuiltoflogsandcoveredwithbark。Otherslandedthetimbersintendedfortheframeofthecoastingvessel,andproceededtoputthemtogether,whileotherspreparedagardenspot,andsowedtheseedsofvariousvegetables。 Thenextthoughtwastogiveanametotheembryometropolis:theonethatnaturallypresenteditselfwasthatoftheprojectorandsupporterofthewholeenterprise。ItwasaccordinglynamedASTORIA。 TheneighboringIndiansnowswarmedabouttheplace。Somebroughtafewland-otterandsea-otterskinstobarter,butinveryscantyparcels;thegreaternumbercamepryingabouttogratifytheircuriosity,fortheyaresaidtobeimpertinentlyinquisitive;whilenotafewcamewithnootherdesignthantopilfer;thelawsofmeumandtuumbeingbutslightlyrespectedamongthem。Someofthembesettheshipintheircanoes,amongwhomwastheChinookchiefComcomly,andhisliegesubjects。 ThesewerewellreceivedbyMr。M’Dougal,whowasdelightedwithanopportunityofenteringuponhisfunctions,andacquiringimportanceintheeyesofhisfutureneighbors。Theconfusionthusproducedonboard,andthederangementofthecargocausedbythispettytrade,stirredthespleenofthecaptain,whohadasovereigncontemptfortheone-eyedchieftainandallhiscrew。 Hecomplainedloudlyofhavinghisshiplumberedbyahostof“Indianragamuffins。”whohadnotaskintodisposeof,andatlengthputhispositiveinterdictuponalltraffickingonboard。 UponthisMr。M’Dougalwasfaintoland,andestablishhisquartersattheencampment,wherehecouldexercisehisrightsandenjoyhisdignitieswithoutcontrol。 Thefeud,however,betweentheserivalpowersstillcontinued,butwaschieflycarriedonbyletter。Dayafterdayandweekafterweekelapsed,yetthestore-houserequisiteforthereceptionofthecargowasnotcompleted,andtheshipwasdetainedinport;whilethecaptainwasteasedbyfrequentrequisitionsforvariousarticlesfortheuseoftheestablishment,orthetradewiththenatives。Anangrycorrespondencetookplace,inwhichhecomplainedbitterlyofthetimewastedin“smokingandsportingparties。”ashetermedthereconnoiteringexpeditions,andinclearingandpreparingmeadowgroundandturnippatches,insteadofdespatchinghisship。Atlengthallthesejarringmatterswereadjusted,ifnottothesatisfaction,atleasttotheacquiescenceofallparties。ThepartofthecargodestinedfortheuseofAstoriawaslanded,andtheshipleftfreetoproceedonhervoyage。 AstheTonquinwastocoasttothenorth,totradeforpeltriesatthedifferentharbors,andtotouchatAstoriaonherreturnintheautumn,itwasunanimouslydeterminedthatMr。M’Kayshouldgoinherassupercargo,takingwithhimMr。Lewisasship’sclerk。OnthefirstofJunetheshipgotunderway,anddroppeddowntoBaker’sBay,whereshewasdetainedforafewdaysbyaheadwind;butearlyinthemorningofthefifthstoodouttoseawithafinebreezeandswellingcanvas,andsweptoffgailyonherfatalvoyage,fromwhichshewasnevertoreturn! OnreviewingtheconductofCaptainThorn,andexamininghispeevishandsomewhatwhimsicalcorrespondence,theimpressionleftuponourmindis,uponthewhole,decidedlyinhisfavor。 Whilewesmileatthesimplicityofhisheartandthenarrownessofhisviews,whichmadehimregardeverythingoutofthedirectpathofhisdailyduty,andtherigidexigenciesoftheservice,astrivialandimpertinent,whichinspiredhimwithcontemptfortheswellingvanityofsomeofhiscoadjutors,andtheliteraryexercisesandcuriousresearchesofothers,wecannotbutapplaudthatstrictandconscientiousdevotiontotheinterestsofhisemployer,andtowhatheconsideredthetrueobjectsoftheenterpriseinwhichhewasengaged。Hecertainlywastoblameoccasionallyfortheasperityofhismanners,andthearbitrarynatureofhismeasures,yetmuchthatisexceptionableinthispartofhisconductmaybetracedtorigidnotionsofdutyacquiredinthattyrannicalschool,ashipofwar,andtotheconstructiongivenbyhiscompanionstotheordersofMr。Astor,solittleinconformitywithhisown。Hismind,too,appearstohavebecomealmostdiseasedbythesuspicionshehadformedastotheloyaltyofhisassociates,andthenatureoftheirultimatedesigns;yetonthispointtherewerecircumstancesto,insomemeasure,justifyhim。TherelationsbetweentheUnitedStatesandGreatBritainwereatthattimeinacriticalstate;infact,thetwocountrieswereontheeveofawar。SeveralofthepartnerswereBritishsubjects,andmightbereadytodeserttheflagunderwhichtheyacted,shouldawartakeplace。TheirapplicationtotheBritishministeratNewYorkshowsthedubiousfeelingwithwhichtheyhadembarkedinthepresententerprise。 TheyhadbeenintheemployoftheNorthwestCompany,andmightbedisposedtorallyagainunderthatassociation,shouldeventsthreatentheprosperityofthisembryoestablishmentofMr。 Astor。Besides,wehavethefact,averredtousbyoneofthepartners,thatsomeofthem,whowereyoungandheedless,tookamischievousandunwarrantablepleasureinplayinguponthejealoustemperofthecaptain,andaffectingmysteriousconsultationsandsinistermovements。 ThesecircumstancesarecitedinpalliationofthedoubtsandsurmisesofCaptainThorn,whichmightotherwiseappearstrangeandunreasonable。Thatmostofthepartnerswereperfectlyuprightandfaithfulinthedischargeofthetrustreposedinthemwearefullysatisfied;stillthehonestcaptainwasnotinvariablywronginhissuspicions;andthatheformedaprettyjustopinionoftheintegrityofthataspiringpersonage,Mr。 M’Dougal,willbesubstantiallyprovedinthesequel。 CHAPTERX。 DisquietingRumorsFromtheInterior-ReconnoitringParty- PreparationsforaTradingPost-AnUnexpectedArrival-ASpyintheCamp-ExpeditionIntotheInterior-ShoresoftheColumbia-MountCoffin-IndianSepulchre-TheLandofSpirits- ColumbianValley-Vancouver’sPoint-FallsandRapids-AGreatFishingMart-TheVillageofWishram-DifferenceBetweenFishingIndiansandHuntingIndians-EffectsofHabitsofTradeontheIndianCharacter-PostEstablishedattheOakinagan。 WHILEtheAstorianswerebusilyoccupiedincompletingtheirfactoryandfort,areportwasbroughttothembyanIndianfromtheupperpartoftheriver,thatapartyofthirtywhitemenhadappearedonthebanksoftheColumbia,andwereactuallybuildinghousesatthesecondrapids。Thisinformationcausedmuchdisquiet。WehavealreadymentionedthattheNorthwestCompanyhadestablishedpoststothewestoftheRockyMountains,inadistrictcalledbythemNewCaledonia,whichextendedfromlat。 52to55degnorth,beingwithintheBritishterritories。ItwasnowapprehendedthattheywereadvancingwithintheAmericanlimits,andwereendeavoringtoseizeupontheupperpartoftheriverandforestalltheAmericanFurCompanyinthesurroundingtrade;inwhichcasebloodyfeudsmightbeanticipated,suchashadprevailedbetweentherivalfurcompaniesinformerdays。 Areconnoitringpartywassentuptherivertoascertainthetruthofthereport。Theyascendedtothefootofthefirstrapid,abouttwohundredmiles,butcouldhearnothingofanywhitemenbeingintheneighborhood。 Notlongaftertheirreturn,however,furtheraccountswerereceived,bytwowanderingIndians,whichestablishedthefactthattheNorthwestCompanyhadactuallyerectedatradinghouseontheSpokaneRiver,whichfallsintothenorthbranchoftheColumbia。 WhatrenderedthisintelligencethemoredisquietingwastheinabilityoftheAstorians,intheirpresentreducedstateastonumbers,andtheexigenciesoftheirnewestablishment,tofurnishdetachmentstopenetratethecountryindifferentdirections,andfixthepostsnecessarytosecuretheinteriortrade。 Itwasresolved,however,atanyrate,toadvanceacounterchecktothispostontheSpokan,andoneofthepartners,Mr。DavidStuart,preparedtosetoutforthepurposewitheightmenandasmallassortmentofgoods。HewastobeguidedbythetwoIndians,whoknewthecountryandpromisedtotakehimtoaplacenotfarfromtheSpokanRiver,andinaneighborhoodaboundingwithbeaver。Herehewastoestablishhimselfandtoremainforatime,providedhefoundthesituationadvantageousandthenativesfriendly。 Onthe15thofJuly,whenMr。Stuartwasnearlyreadytoembark,acanoemadeitsappearance,standingfortheharbor,andmannedbyninewhitemen。Muchspeculationtookplacewhothesestrangerscouldbe,foritwastoosoontoexpecttheirownpeople,underMr。Hunt,whoweretocrossthecontinent。Asthecanoedrewnear,theBritishstandardwasdistinguished:oncomingtoland,oneofthecrewsteppedonshore,andannouncedhimselfasMr。DavidThompson,astronomer,andpartneroftheNorthwestCompany。Accordingtohisaccount,hehadsetoutintheprecedingyearwithatolerablystrongparty,andasupplyofIndiangoods,tocrosstheRockyMountains。Apartofhispeople,however,haddesertedhimontheeasternside,andreturnedwiththegoodstothenearestNorthwestpost。Hehadpersistedincrossingthemountainswitheightmen,whoremainedtruetohim。 Theyhadtraversedthehigherregions,andventurednearthesourceoftheColumbia,where,inthespring,theyhadconstructedacedarcanoe,thesameinwhichtheyhadreachedAstoria。 This,infact,wasthepartydespatchedbytheNorthwestCompanytoanticipateMr。AstorinhisintentionofeffectingasettlementatthemouthoftheColumbiaRiver。Itappears,frominformationsubsequentlyderivedfromothersources,thatMr。 Thompsonhadpushedonhiscoursewithgreathaste,callingatalltheIndianvillagesinhismarch,presentingthemwithBritishflags,andevenplantingthemattheforksoftherivers,proclaimingformallythathetookpossessionofthecountryinthenameofthekingofGreatBritainfortheNorthwestCompany。 Ashisoriginalplanwasdefeatedbythedesertionofhispeople,itisprobablethathedescendedtheriversimplytoreconnoitre,andascertainwhetheranAmericansettlementhadbeencommenced。 Mr。Thompsonwas,nodoubt,thefirstwhitemanwhodescendedthenorthernbranchoftheColumbiafromsonearitssource。LewisandClarkestruckthemainbodyoftheriverattheforks,aboutfourhundredmilesfromitsmouth。TheyentereditfromLewisRiver,itssouthernbranch,andthencedescended。 ThoughMr。Thompsoncouldbeconsideredaslittlebetterthanaspyinthecamp,hewasreceivedwithgreatcordialitybyMr。 M’Dougal,whohadalurkingfeelingofcompanionshipandgood- willforalloftheNorthwestCompany。Heinvitedhimtohead- quarters,whereheandhispeoplewerehospitablyentertained。 Nay,further,beingsomewhatinextremity,hewasfurnishedbyMr。M’Dougalwithgoodsandprovisionsforhisjourneybackacrossthemountains,muchagainstthewishesOfMr。DavidStuart,whodidnotthinktheobjectofhisvisitentitledhimtoanyfavor。 Onthe23rdofJuly,Mr。Stuartsetoutuponhisexpeditiontotheinterior。Hispartyconsistedoffouroftheclerks,Messrs。 Pillet,Ross,M’Lennon,andMontigny,twoCanadianvoyageurs,andtwonativesoftheSandwichIslands。Theyhadthreecanoeswellladenwithprovisions,andwithgoodsandnecessitiesforatradingestablishment。 Mr。Thompsonandhispartysetoutincompanywiththem,itbeinghisintentiontoproceeddirecttoMontreal。ThepartnersatAstoriaforwardedbyhimashortlettertoMr。Astor,informinghimoftheirsafearrivalatthemouthoftheColumbia,andthattheyhadnotyetheardofMr。Hunt。Thelittlesquadronofcanoessetsailwithafavorablebreeze,andsoonpassedTonguePoint,along,high,androckypromontory,coveredwithtrees,andstretchingfarintotheriver。Oppositetothis,onthenorthernshore,isadeepbay,wheretheColumbiaanchoredatthetimeofthediscovery,andwhichisstillcalledGray’sBay,fromthenameofhercommander。 Fromhence,thegeneralcourseoftheriverforaboutseventymileswasnearlysoutheast;varyinginbreadthaccordingtoitsbaysandindentations,andnavigableforvesselsofthreehundredtons。Theshoreswereinsomeplaceshighandrocky,withlowmarshyislandsattheirfeet,subjecttoinundation,andcoveredwithwillows,poplars,andothertreesthatloveanalluvialsoil。Sometimesthemountainsreceded,andgaveplacetobeautifulplainsandnobleforests。Whiletherivermarginwasrichlyfringedwithtreesofdeciduousfoliage,theroughuplandswerecrownedbymajesticpines,andfirsofgiganticsize,sometoweringtotheheightofbetweentwoandthreehundredfeet,withproportionatecircumference。OutofthesetheIndianswroughttheirgreatcanoesandpirogues。 Atonepartoftheriver,theypassed,onthenorthernside,anisolatedrock,aboutonehundredandfiftyfeethigh,risingfromalowmarshysoil,andtotallydisconnectedwiththeadjacentmountains。ThiswasheldingreatreverencebytheneighboringIndians,beingoneoftheirprincipalplacesofsepulture。Thesameprovidentcareforthedeceasedthatprevailsamongthehuntingtribesoftheprairiesisobservableamongthepiscatorytribesoftheriversandsea-coast。Amongtheformer,thefavoritehorseofthehunterisburiedwithhiminthesamefunerealmound,andhisbowandarrowsarelaidbyhisside,thathemaybeperfectlyequippedforthe“happyhuntinggrounds“ofthelandofspirits。Amongthelatter,theIndianiswrappedinhismantleofskins,laidinhiscanoe,withhispaddle,hisfishingspear,andotherimplementsbesidehim,andplacedaloftonsomerockorothereminenceoverlookingtheriver,orbay,orlake,thathehasfrequented。Heisthusfittedouttolaunchawayuponthoseplacidstreamsandsunnylakesstockedwithallkindsoffishandwaterfowl,whicharepreparedinthenextworldforthosewhohaveacquittedthemselvesasgoodsons,goodfathers,goodhusbands,and,aboveall,goodfishermen,duringtheirmortalsojourn。 Theisolatedrockinquestionpresentedaspectacleofthekind,numerousdeadbodiesbeingdepositedincanoesonitssummit; whileonpolesaroundweretrophies,or,rather,funeralofferingsoftrinkets,garments,basketsofroots,andotherarticlesfortheuseofthedeceased。Areverentialfeelingprotectsthesesacredspotsfromrobberyorinsult。Thefriendsofthedeceased,especiallythewomen,repairhereatsunriseandsunsetforsometimeafterhisdeath,singinghisfuneraldirge,andutteringloudwailingsandlamentations。 Fromthenumberofdeadbodiesincanoesobserveduponthisrockbythefirstexplorersoftheriver,itreceivedthenameofMountCoffin,whichitcontinuestobear。 BeyondthisrocktheypassedthemouthofariverontherightbankoftheColumbia,whichappearedtotakeitsriseinadistantmountaincoveredwithsnow。TheIndiannameofthisriverwastheCowleskee。SomemilesfurtherontheycametothegreatColumbianValley,socalledbyLewisandClarke。Itissixtymilesinwidth,andextendsfartothesoutheastbetweenparallelridgesofmountains,whichbounditontheeastandwest。Throughthecentreofthisvalleyflowedalargeandbeautifulstream,calledtheWallamot,whichcamewanderingforseveralmiles,throughayetunexploredwilderness。Theshelteredsituationofthisimmensevalleyhadanobviouseffectupontheclimate。Itwasaregionofgreatbeautyandluxuriance,withlakesandpools,andgreenmeadowsshadedbynoblegroves。Varioustribesweresaidtoresideinthisvalley,andalongthebanksoftheWallamot。 AbouteightmilesabovethemouthoftheWallamotthelittlesquadronarrivedatVancouver’sPoint,socalledinhonorofthatcelebratedvoyagerbyhislieutenant(Broughton)whenheexploredtheriver。ThispointissaidtopresentoneofthemostbeautifulscenesontheColumbia;alovelymeadow,withasilversheetoflimpidwaterinthecenter,enlivenedbywild-fowl,arangeofhillscrownedbyforests,whiletheprospectisclosedbyMountHood,amagnificentmountainrisingintoaloftypeak,andcoveredwithsnow;theultimatelandmarkofthefirstexplorersoftheriver。 PointVancouverisaboutonehundredmilesfromAstoria。Heretherefluxofthetideceasestobeperceptible。Tothisplacevesselsoftwoandthreehundredtonsburdenmayascend。ThepartyunderthecommandofMr。Stuarthadbeenthreeorfourdaysinreachingit,thoughwehaveforbornetonoticetheirdailyprogressandnightlyencampments。 FromPointVancouvertheriverturnedtowardsthenortheast,andbecamemorecontractedandrapid,withoccasionalislandsandfrequentsand-banks。Theseislandsarefurnishedwithanumberofponds,andatcertainseasonsaboundwithswans,geese,brandts,cranes,gulls,plover,andotherwild-fowl。Theshores,too,arelowandcloselywooded,withsuchanundergrowthofvinesandrushesastobealmostimpassable。 AboutthirtymilesabovePointVancouverthemountainsagainapproachonbothsidesoftheriver,whichisborderedbystupendousprecipices,coveredwiththefirandthewhitecedar,andenlivenedoccasionallybybeautifulcascadesleapingfromagreatheight,andsendingupwreathsofvapor。Oneoftheseprecipices,orcliffs,iscuriouslywornbytimeandweathersoastohavetheappearanceofaruinedfortress,withtowersandbattlements,beetlinghighabovetheriver,whiletwosmallcascades,onehundredandfiftyfeetinheight,pitchdownfromthefissuresoftherocks。 Theturbulenceandrapidityofthecurrentcontinuallyaugmentingastheyadvanced,gavethevoyagersintimationthattheywereapproachingthegreatobstructionsoftheriver,andatlengththeyarrivedatStrawberryIsland,socalledbyLewisandClarke,whichliesatthefootofthefirstrapid。AsthispartoftheColumbiawillberepeatedlymentionedinthecourseofthiswork,beingthesceneofsomeofitsincidents,weshallgiveageneraldescriptionofitinthisplace。 ThefallsorrapidsoftheColumbiaaresituatedaboutonehundredandeightymilesabovethemouthoftheriver。Thefirstisaperpendicularcascadeoftwentyfeet,afterwhichthereisaswiftdescentforamile,betweenislandsofhardblackrock,toanotherpitchofeightfeetdividedbytworocks。Abouttwoandahalfmilesbelowthistheriverexpandsintoawidebasin,seeminglydammedupbyaperpendicularridgeofblackrock。A current,however,setsdiagonallytotheleftofthisrockybarrier,wherethereisachasmforty-fiveyardsinwidth。 Throughthisthewholebodyoftheriverroarsalong,swellingandwhirlingandboilingforsomedistanceinthewildestconfusion。Throughthistremendouschanneltheintrepidexplorersoftheriver,LewisandClarke,passedintheirboats;thedangerbeing,notfromtherocks,butfromthegreatsurgesandwhirlpools。 Atthedistanceofamileandahalffromthefootofthisnarrowchannelisarapid,formedbytworockyislands;andtwomilesbeyondisasecondgreatfall,overaledgeofrockstwentyfeethigh,extendingnearlyfromshoretoshore。Theriverisagaincompressedintoachannelfromfiftytoahundredfeetwide,wornthrougharoughbedofhardblackrock,alongwhichitboilsandroarswithgreatfuryforthedistanceofthreemiles。Thisiscalled“TheLongNarrows。” HereisthegreatfishingplaceoftheColumbia。Inthespringoftheyear,whenthewaterishigh,thesalmonascendtheriverinincrediblenumbers。Astheypassthroughthisnarrowstrait,theIndians,standingontherocks,orontheendofwoodenstagesprojectingfromthebanks,scoopthemupwithsmallnetsdistendedonhoopsandattachedtolonghandles,andcastthemontheshore。 Theyarethencuredandpackedinapeculiarmanner。Afterhavingbeenopenedanddisemboweled,theyareexposedtothesunonscaffoldserectedontheriverbanks。Whensufficientlydry,theyarepoundedfinebetweentwostones,pressedintothesmallestcompass,andpackedinbasketsorbalesofgrassmatting,abouttwofeetlongandoneindiameter,linedwiththecuredskinofasalmon。Thetopislikewisecoveredwithfishskins,securedbycordspassingthroughholesintheedgeofthebasket。Packagesarethenmade,eachcontainingtwelveofthesebales,sevenatbottom,fiveattop,pressedclosetoeachother,withthecordedsideupward,wrappedinmatsandcorded。Theseareplacedindrysituations,andagaincoveredwithmatting。Eachofthesepackagescontainsfromninetytoahundredpoundsofdriedfish,whichinthisstatewillkeepsoundforseveralyears。**(LewisandClarke,vol。ii。p。32。) Wehavegiventhisprocessatsomelength,asfurnishedbythefirstexplorers,becauseitmarksapracticedingenuityinpreparingarticlesoftrafficforamarket,seldomseenamongouraboriginals。ForlikereasonwewouldmakeespecialmentionofthevillageofWishram,attheheadoftheLongNarrows,asbeingasolitaryinstanceofanaboriginaltradingmart,oremporium。 Herethesalmoncaughtintheneighboringrapidswere“warehoused。”toawaitcustomers。HitherthetribesfromthemouthoftheColumbiarepairedwiththefishofthesea-coast,theroots,berries,andespeciallythewappatoo,gatheredinthelowerpartsoftheriver,togetherwithgoodsandtrinketsobtainedfromtheshipswhichcasuallyvisitthecoast。HitheralsothetribesfromtheRockyMountainsbroughtdownhorses,bear-grass,quamash,andothercommoditiesoftheinterior。Themerchantfishermenatthefallsactedasmiddlemenorfactors,andpassedtheobjectsoftraffic,asitwere,cross-handed; tradingawaypartofthewaresreceivedfromthemountaintribestothoseoftheriversandplains,andviceversa:theirpackagesofpoundedsalmonenteredlargelyintothesystemofbarter,andbeingcarriedoffinoppositedirections,foundtheirwaytothesavagehuntingcampsfarintheinterior,andtothecasualwhitetraderswhotoucheduponthecoast。 WehavealreadynoticedcertaincontrarietiesofcharacterbetweentheIndiantribes,producedbytheirdietandmodeoflife;andnowherearetheymoreapparentthanaboutthefallsoftheColumbia。TheIndiansofthisgreatfishingmartarerepresentedbytheearliestexplorersassleekerandfatter,butlesshardyandactive,thanthetribesofthemountainsandprairies,wholivebyhunting,oroftheupperpartsoftheriver,wherefishisscanty,andtheinhabitantsmustekeouttheirsubsistencebydiggingrootsorchasingthedeer。Indeed,wheneveranIndianoftheuppercountryistoolazytohunt,yetisfondofgoodliving,herepairstothefalls,toliveinabundancewithoutlabor。 “Bysuchworthlessdogsasthese。”saysanhonesttraderinhisjournal,whichnowliesbeforeus,“bysuchworthlessdogsasthesearethesenotedfishing-placespeopled,which,likeourgreatcities,maywithproprietybecalledtheheadquartersofvitiatedprinciples。” Thehabitsoftradeandtheavidityofgainhavetheircorruptingeffectseveninthewilderness,asmaybeinstancedinthemembersofthisaboriginalemporium;forthesamejournalistdenouncesthemas“saucy,impudentrascals,whowillstealwhentheycan,andpillagewheneveraweakpartyfallsintheirpower。” Thathedoesnotbeliethemwillbeevidencedhereafter,whenwehaveoccasionagaintotouchatWishramandnavigatetherapids。 Inthepresentinstancethetravellerseffectedthelaboriousascentofthispartoftheriver,withallitsvariousportages,withoutmolestation,andoncemorelaunchedawayinsmoothwaterabovethehighfalls。 Thetwopartiescontinuedtogether,withoutmaterialimpediment,forthreeorfourhundredmilesfurtheruptheColumbia;Mr。 ThompsonappearingtotakegreatinterestinthesuccessofMr。 Stuart,andpointingoutplacesfavorable,ashesaid,totheestablishmentofhiscontemplatedtradingpost。 Mr。Stuart,whodistrustedhissincerity,atlengthpretendedtoadopthisadvice,and,takingleaveofhim,remainedasiftoestablishhimself,whiletheotherproceededonhiscoursetowardsthemountains。Nosooner,however,hadhefairlydepartedthanMr。Stuartagainpushedforward,underguidanceofthetwoIndians,nordidhestopuntilhehadarrivedwithinaboutonehundredandfortymilesoftheSpokanRiver,whichheconsiderednearenoughtokeeptherivalestablishmentincheck。Theplacewhichhepitcheduponforhistradingpostwasapointoflandaboutthreemilesinlengthandtwoinbreadth,formedbythejunctionoftheOakinaganwiththeColumbia。Theformerisariverwhichhasitssourceinaconsiderablelakeaboutonehundredandfiftymileswestofthepointofjunction。Thetworivers,abouttheplaceoftheirconfluence,areborderedbyimmenseprairiescoveredwithherbage,butdestituteoftrees。 Thepointitselfwasornamentedwithwildflowersofeveryhue,inwhichinnumerablehumming-birdswere“banquetingnearlythelivelongday。” Thesituationofthispointappearedtobewelladaptedforatradingpost。Theclimatewassalubrious,thesoilfertile,theriverswellstockedwithfish,thenativespeaceableandfriendly。TherewereeasycommunicationswiththeinteriorbytheupperwatersoftheColumbiaandthelateralstreamoftheOakinagan,whilethedownwardcurrentoftheColumbiafurnishedahighwaytoAstoria。 Availinghimself,therefore,ofthedriftwoodwhichhadcollectedinquantitiesintheneighboringbendsoftheriver,Mr。Stuartandhismensettoworktoerectahouse,whichinalittlewhilewassufficientlycompletedfortheirresidence;andthuswasestablishedthefirstinteriorpostofthecompany。WewillnowreturntonoticetheprogressofaffairsatthemouthoftheColumbia。 CHAPTERXI。 AlarmatAstoria-RumorofIndianHostilities-PreparationsforDefense-TragicFateoftheTonquin。 THEsailingoftheTonquin,andthedepartureofMr。DavidStuartandhisdetachment,hadproducedastrikingeffectonaffairsatAstoria。Thenativeswhohadswarmedabouttheplacebeganimmediatelytodropoff,untilatlengthnotanIndianwastobeseen。This,atfirst,wasattributedtothewantofpeltrieswithwhichtotrade;butinalittlewhilethemysterywasexplainedinamorealarmingmanner。Aconspiracywassaidtobeonfootamongtheneighboringtribestomakeacombinedattackuponthewhitemen,nowthattheyweresoreducedinnumber。Forthispurposetherehadbeenagatheringofwarriorsinaneighboringbay,underpretexoffishingforsturgeon;andfleetsofcanoeswereexpectedtojointhemfromthenorthandSouth。EvenComcomly,theone-eyedchief,notwithstandinghisprofessedfriendshipforMr。M’Dougal,wasstronglysuspectedofbeingconcernedinthisgeneralcombination。 Alarmedatrumorsofthisimpendingdanger,theAstorianssuspendedtheirregularlabor,andsettowork,withallhaste,tothrowuptemporaryworksforrefugeanddefense。Inthecourseofafewdaystheysurroundedtheirdwelling-houseandmagazineswithapicketfenceninetyfeetsquare,flankedbytwobastions,onwhichweremountedfourfour-pounders。Everydaytheyexercisedthemselvesintheuseoftheirweapons,soastoqualifythemselvesformilitaryduty,andatnightensconcedthemselvesintheirfortressandpostedsentinels,toguardagainstsurprise。Inthiswaytheyhoped,evenincaseofattack,tobeabletoholdoutuntilthearrivalofthepartytobeconductedbyMr。HuntacrosstheRockyMountains,oruntilthereturnoftheTonquin。Thelatterdependence,however,wasdoomedsoontobedestroyed。EarlyinAugust,awanderingbandofsavagesfromtheStraitofJuandeFucamadetheirappearanceatthemouthoftheColumbia,wheretheycametofishforsturgeon。 TheybroughtdisastrousaccountsoftheTonquin,whichwereatfirsttreatedasfables,butwhichweretoosadlyconfirmedbyadifferenttribethatarrivedafewdayssubsequently。Weshallrelatethecircumstancesofthismelancholyaffairascorrectlyasthecasualdiscrepanciesinthestatementsthathavereacheduswillpermit。 WehavealreadystatedthattheTonquinsetsailfromthemouthoftheriveronthefifthofJune。Thewholenumberofpersonsonboardamountedtotwenty-three。Inoneoftheouterbaystheypickedup,fromafishingcanoe,anIndiannamedLamazee,whohadalreadymadetwovoyagesalongthecoastandknewsomethingofthelanguageofthevarioustribes。Heagreedtoaccompanythemasinterpreter。 Steeringtothenorth,CaptainThornarrivedinafewdaysatVancouver’sIsland,andanchoredintheharborofNeweetee,verymuchagainsttheadviceofhisIndianinterpreter,whowarnedhimagainsttheperfidiouscharacterofthenativesofthispartofthecoast。Numbersofcanoessooncameoff,bringingsea-otterskinstosell。Itwastoolateinthedaytocommenceatraffic,butMr。M’Kay,accompaniedbyafewofthemen,wentonshoretoalargevillagetovisitWicananish,thechiefofthesurroundingterritory,sixofthenativesremainingonboardashostages。Hewasreceivedwithgreatprofessionsoffriendship,entertainedhospitably,andacouchofsea-otterskinspreparedforhiminthedwellingofthechieftain,wherehewasprevailedupontopassthenight。 Inthemorning,beforeMr。M’Kayhadreturnedtotheship,greatnumbersofthenativescameoffintheircanoestotrade,headedbytwosonsofWicananish。Astheybroughtabundanceofsea-otterskins,andtherewaseveryappearanceofabrisktrade,CaptainThorndidnotwaitforthereturnofMr。M’Kay,butspreadhiswaresuponthedeck,makingatemptingdisplayofblankets,cloths,knives,beads,andfish-hooks,expectingapromptandprofitablesale。TheIndians,however,werenotsoeagerandsimpleashehadsupposed,havinglearnedtheartofbargainingandthevalueofmerchandisefromthecasualtradersalongthecoast。Theywereguided,too,byashrewdoldchiefnamedNookamis,whohadgrowngrayintrafficwithNewEnglandskippers,andpridedhimselfuponhisacuteness。Hisopinionseemedtoregulatethemarket。WhenCaptainThornmadewhatheconsideredaliberalofferforanotter-skin,thewilyoldIndiantreateditwithscorn,andaskedmorethandouble。Hiscomradesalltooktheircuefromhim,andnotanotter-skinwastobehadatareasonablerate。 Theoldfellow,however,overshothismark,andmistookthecharacterofthemanhewastreatingwith。Thornwasaplain,straightforwardsailor,whoneverhadtwomindsnortwopricesinhisdealings,wasdeficientinpatienceandpliancy,andtotallywantinginthechicaneryoftraffic。Hehadavastdealofsternbuthonestprideinhisnature,and,moreover,heldthewholesavageraceinsovereigncontempt。Abandoningallfurtherattempts,therefore,tobargainwithhisshufflingcustomers,hethrusthishandsintohispockets,andpacedupanddownthedeckinsullensilence。ThecunningoldIndianfollowedhimtoandfro,holdingoutasea-otterskintohimateveryturn,andpesteringhimtotrade。Findingothermeansunavailing,hesuddenlychangedhistone,andbegantojeerandbanterhimuponthemeanpricesheoffered。Thiswastoomuchforthepatienceofthecaptain,whowasneverremarkableforrelishingajoke,especiallywhenathisownexpense。Turningsuddenlyuponhispersecutor,hesnatchedtheprofferedotter-skinfromhishands,rubbeditinhisface,anddismissedhimoverthesideoftheshipwithnoverycomplimentaryapplicationtoacceleratehisexit。Hethenkickedthepeltriestotherightandleftaboutthedeck,andbrokeupthemarketinthemostignominiousmanner。 OldNookamismadeforshoreinafuriouspassion,inwhichhewasjoinedbyShewish,oneofthesonsofWicananish,whowentoffbreathingvengeance,andtheshipwassoonabandonedbythenatives。 WhenMr。M’Kayreturnedonboard,theinterpreterrelatedwhathadpassed,andbeggedhimtoprevailuponthecaptaintomakesail,asfromhisknowledgeofthetemperandprideofthepeopleoftheplace,hewassuretheywouldresenttheindignityofferedtooneoftheirchiefs。Mr。M’Kay,whohimselfpossessedsomeexperienceofIndiancharacter,wenttothecaptain,whowasstillpacingthedeckinmoodyhumor,representedthedangertowhichhishastyacthadexposedthevessel,andurgedhimtoweighanchor。Thecaptainmadelightofhiscounsels,andpointedtohiscannonandfire-armsassufficientsafeguardagainstnakedsavages。Furtherremonstrancesonlyprovokedtauntingrepliesandsharpaltercations。Thedaypassedawaywithoutanysignsofhostility,andatnightthecaptainretiredasusualtohiscabin,takingnomorethantheusualprecautions。 Onthefollowingmorning,atdaybreak,whilethecaptainandMr。 M’Kaywereyetasleep,acanoecamealongsideinwhichweretwentyIndians,commandedbyyoungShewish。Theywereunarmed,theiraspectanddemeanorfriendly,andtheyheldupotter-skins,andmadesignsindicativeofawishtotrade。ThecautionenjoinedbyMr。Astor,inrespecttotheadmissionofIndiansonboardoftheship,hadbeenneglectedforsometimepast,andtheofficerofthewatch,perceivingthoseinthecanoetobewithoutweapons,andhavingreceivednoorderstothecontrary,readilypermittedthemtomountthedeck。Anothercanoesoonsucceeded,thecrewofwhichwaslikewiseadmitted。Inalittlewhileothercanoescameoff,andIndiansweresoonclamberingintothevesselonallsides。 Theofficerofthewatchnowfeltalarmed,andcalledtoCaptainThornandMr。M’Kay。Bythetimetheycameondeck,itwasthrongedwithIndians。TheinterpreternoticedtoMr。M’Kaythatmanyofthenativesworeshortmantlesofskins,andintimatedasuspicionthattheyweresecretlyarmed。Mr。M’Kayurgedthecaptaintocleartheshipandgetunderway。Heagainmadelightoftheadvice;buttheaugmentedswarmofcanoesabouttheship,andthenumbersstillputtingofffromshore,atlengthawakenedhisdistrust,andheorderedsomeofthecrewtoweighanchor,whilesomeweresentalofttomakesail。 TheIndiansnowofferedtotradewiththecaptainonhisownterms,prompted,apparently,bytheapproachingdepartureoftheship。Accordingly,ahurriedtradewascommenced。Themainarticlessoughtbythesavagesinbarterwereknives;asfastassomeweresuppliedtheymovedoff,andotherssucceeded。Bydegreestheywerethusdistributedaboutthedeck,andallwithweapons。 Theanchorwasnownearlyup,thesailswereloose,andthecaptain,inaloudandperemptorytone,orderedtheshiptobecleared。Inaninstant,asignalyellwasgiven;itwasechoedoneveryside,knivesandwar-clubswerebrandishedineverydirection,andthesavagesrushedupontheirmarkedvictims。 ThefirstthatfellwasMr。Lewis,theship’sclerk。Hewasleaning,withfoldedarms,overabaleofblankets,engagedinbargaining,whenhereceivedadeadlystabintheback,andfelldownthecompanion-way。 Mr。M’Kay,whowasseatedonthetaffrail,sprangonhisfeet,butwasinstantlyknockeddownwithawar-clubandflungbackwardsintothesea,wherehewasdespatchedbythewomeninthecanoes。 InthemeantimeCaptainThornmadedesperatefightagainstfearfulodds。Hewasapowerfulaswellasaresoluteman,buthehadcomeupondeckwithoutweapons。Shewish,theyoungchiefsingledhimoutashispeculiarprey,andrusheduponhimatthefirstoutbreak。Thecaptainhadbarelytimetodrawaclasp-knifewithoneblowofwhichhelaidtheyoungsavagedeadathisfeet。 SeveralofthestoutestfollowersofShewishnowsetuponhim。Hedefendedhimselfvigorously,dealingcripplingblowstorightandleft,andstrewingthequarter-deckwiththeslainandwounded。 Hisobjectwastofighthiswaytothecabin,wheretherewerefire-arms;buthewashemmedinwithfoes,coveredwithwounds,andfaintwithlossofblood。Foraninstantheleaneduponthetillerwheel,whenablowfrombehind,withawar-club,felledhimtothedeck,wherehewasdespatchedwithknivesandthrownoverboard。 Whilethiswastransactinguponthequarter-deck,achance-medleyfightwasgoingonthroughouttheship。Thecrewfoughtdesperatelywithknives,handspikes,andwhateverweapontheycouldseizeuponinthemomentofsurprise。Theyweresoon,however,overpoweredbynumbers,andmercilesslybutchered。 Astothesevenwhohadbeensentalofttomakesail,theycontemplatedwithhorrorthecarnagethatwasgoingonbelow。 Beingdestituteofweapons,theyletthemselvesdownbytherunningrigging,inhopesofgettingbetweendecks。Onefellintheattempt,andwasinstantlydespatched;anotherreceivedadeath-blowinthebackashewasdescending;athird,StephenWeekes,thearmorer,wasmortallywoundedashewasgettingdownthehatchway。 Theremainingfourmadegoodtheirretreatintothecabin,wheretheyfoundMr。Lewis,stillalive,thoughmortallywounded。 Barricadingthecabindoor,theybrokeholesthroughthecompanion-way,and,withthemusketsandammunitionwhichwereathand,openedabriskfirethatsoonclearedthedeck。 ThusfartheIndianinterpreter,fromwhomtheseparticularsarederived,hadbeenaneye-witnesstothedeadlyconflict。Hehadtakennopartinit,andhadbeensparedbythenativesasbeingoftheirrace。Intheconfusionofthemomenthetookrefugewiththerest,inthecanoes。Thesurvivorsofthecrewnowsalliedforth,anddischargedsomeofthedeck-guns,whichdidgreatexecutionamongthecanoes,anddroveallthesavagestoshore。 Fortheremainderofthedaynooneventuredtoputofftotheship,deterredbytheeffectsofthefire-arms。Thenightpassedawaywithoutanyfurtherattemptsonthepartofthenatives。 Whenthedaydawned,theTonquinstilllayatanchorinthebay,hersailsalllooseandflappinginthewind,andnooneapparentlyonboardofher。Afteratime,someofthecanoesventuredforthtoreconnoitre,takingwiththemtheinterpreter。 Theypaddledabouther,keepingcautiouslyatadistance,butgrowingmoreandmoreemboldenedatseeingherquietandlifeless。Onemanatlengthmadehisappearanceonthedeck,andwasrecognizedbytheinterpreterasMr。Lewis。Hemadefriendlysigns,andinvitedthemonboard。Itwaslongbeforetheyventuredtocomply。Thosewhomountedthedeckmetwithnoopposition;noonewastobeseenonboard;forMr。Lewis,afterinvitingthem,haddisappeared。Othercanoesnowpressedforwardtoboardtheprize;thedecksweresooncrowded,andthesidescoveredwithclamberingsavages,allintentonplunder。Inthemidstoftheireagernessandexultation,theshipblewupwithatremendousexplosion。Arms,legs,andmutilatedbodieswereblownintotheair,anddreadfulhavocwasmadeinthesurroundingcanoes。Theinterpreterwasinthemain-chainsatthetimeoftheexplosion,andwasthrownunhurtintothewater,wherehesucceededingettingintooneofthecanoes。Accordingtohisstatement,thebaypresentedanawfulspectacleafterthecatastrophe。Theshiphaddisappeared,butthebaywascoveredwithfragmentsofthewreck,withshatteredcanoes,andIndiansswimmingfortheirlives,orstrugglingintheagoniesofdeath; whilethosewhohadescapedthedangerremainedaghastandstupefied,ormadewithfranticpanicfortheshore。Upwardsofahundredsavagesweredestroyedbytheexplosion,manymorewereshockinglymutilated,andfordaysafterwardsthelimbsandbodiesoftheslainwerethrownuponthebeach。 TheinhabitantsofNeweeteewereoverwhelmedwithconsternationatthisastoundingcalamity,whichhadburstuponthemintheverymomentoftriumph。Thewarriorssatmuteandmournful,whilethewomenfilledtheairwithloudlamentations。Theirweepingandwalling,however,wassuddenlychangedintoyellsoffuryatthesightoffourunfortunatewhitemen,broughtcaptiveintothevillage。Theyhadbeendrivenonshoreinoneoftheship’sboats,andtakenatsomedistancealongthecoast。 Theinterpreterwaspermittedtoconversewiththem。Theyprovedtobethefourbravefellowswhohadmadesuchdesperatedefensefromthecabin。Theinterpretergatheredfromthemsomeoftheparticularsalreadyrelated。Theytoldhimfurther,thataftertheyhadbeatenofftheenemyandclearedtheship,Lewisadvisedthattheyshouldslipthecableandendeavortogettosea。Theydeclinedtotakehisadvice,allegingthatthewindsettoostronglyintothebayandwoulddrivethemonshore。Theyresolved,assoonasitwasdark,toputoffquietlyintheship’sboat,whichtheywouldbeabletodounperceived,andtocoastalongbacktoAstoria。Theyputtheirresolutionintoeffect;butLewisrefusedtoaccompanythem,beingdisabledbyhiswound,hopelessofescape,anddeterminedonaterriblerevenge。Onthevoyageout,hehadrepeatedlyexpressedapresentimentthatheshoulddiebyhisownhands;thinkingithighlyprobablethatheshouldbeengagedinsomecontestwiththenatives,andbeingresolved,incaseofextremity,tocommitsuicideratherthanbemadeaprisoner。Henowdeclaredhisintentiontoremainonboardoftheshipuntildaylight,todecoyasmanyofthesavagesonboardaspossible,thentosetfiretothepowdermagazine,andterminatehislifebyasignalofvengeance。Howwellhesucceededhasbeenshown。Hiscompanionsbadehimamelancholyadieu,andsetoffontheirprecariousexpedition。Theystrovewithmightandmaintogetoutofthebay,butfounditimpossibletoweatherapointofland,andwereatlengthcompelledtotakeshelterinasmallcove,wheretheyhopedtoremainconcealeduntilthewindshouldbemorefavorable。Exhaustedbyfatigueandwatching,theyfellintoasoundsleep,andinthatstateweresurprisedbythesavages。 BetterhaditbeenforthoseunfortunatemenhadtheyremainedwithLewis,andsharedhisheroicdeath:asitwas,theyperishedinamorepainfulandprotractedmanner,beingsacrificedbythenativestothemanesoftheirfriendswithallthelingeringtorturesofsavagecruelty。Sometimeaftertheirdeath,theinterpreter,whohadremainedakindofprisoneratlarge,effectedhisescape,andbroughtthetragicaltidingstoAstoria。 SuchisthemelancholystoryoftheTonquin,andsuchwasthefateofherbravebutheadstrongcommander,andheradventurouscrew。Itisacatastrophethatshowstheimportance,inallenterprisesofmoment,tokeepinmindthegeneralinstructionsofthesagaciousheadswhichdevisethem。Mr。Astorwaswellawareoftheperilstowhichshipswereexposedonthiscoastfromquarrelswiththenatives,andfromperfidiousattemptsofthelattertosurpriseandcapturetheminunguardedmoments。HehadrepeatedlyenjoinedituponCaptainThorn,inconversation,andatparting,inhisletterofinstructions,tobecourteousandkindinhisdealingswiththesavages,butbynomeanstoconfideintheirapparentfriendship,nortoadmitmorethanafewonboardofhisshipatatime。 HadthedeportmentofCaptainThornbeenproperlyregulated,theinsultsowoundingtosavagepridewouldneverhavebeengiven。 Hadheenforcedtheruletoadmitbutafewatatime,thesavageswouldnothavebeenabletogetthemastery。Hewastooirritable,however,topracticethenecessaryself-command,and,havingbeennurturedinaproudcontemptofdanger,thoughtitbeneathhimtomanifestanyfearofacrewofunarmedsavages。 Withallhisfaultsandfoibles,wecannotbutspeakofhimwithesteem,anddeplorehisuntimelyfate;forwerememberhimwellinearlylife,asacompanioninpleasantscenesandjoyoushours。Whenonshore,amonghisfriends,hewasafrank,manly,sound-heartedsailor。Onboardshipheevidentlyassumedthehardnessofdeportmentandsternnessofdemeanorwhichmanydeemessentialtonavalservice。Throughoutthewholeoftheexpedition,however,heshowedhimselfloyal,single-minded,straightforward,andfearless;andifthefateofhisvesselmaybechargedtohisharshnessandimprudence,weshouldrecollectthathepaidforhiserrorwithhislife。 ThelossoftheTonquinwasagrievousblowtotheinfantestablishmentofAstoria,andonethatthreatenedtobringafteritatrainofdisasters。TheintelligenceofitdidnotreachMr。 Astoruntilmanymonthsafterwards。Hefeltitinallitsforce,andwasawarethatitmustcripple,ifnotentirelydefeat,thegreatschemeofhisambition。Inhisletters,writtenatthetime,hespeaksofitas“acalamity,thelengthofwhichhecouldnotforesee。”Heindulged,however,innoweakandvainlamentation,butsoughttodeviseapromptandefficientremedy。 Theverysameeveningheappearedatthetheatrewithhisusualserenityofcountenance。Afriend,whoknewthedisastrousintelligencehehadreceived,expressedhisastonishmentthathecouldhavecalmnessofspiritsufficientforsuchasceneoflightamusement。“Whatwouldyouhavemedo?”washischaracteristicreply;“wouldyouhavemestayathomeandweepforwhatIcannothelp?” CHAPTERXII。 GloomatAstoria-AnIngeniousStratagem-TheSmall-PoxChief- LaunchingoftheDolly-AnArrival-ACanadianTrapper-A FreemanoftheForest-AnIroquoisHunter-WinterontheColumbia-FestivitiesofNewYear。 THEtidingsofthelossoftheTonquin,andthemassacreofhercrew,struckdismayintotheheartsoftheAstorians。Theyfoundthemselvesamerehandfulofmen,onasavagecoast,surroundedbyhostiletribes,whowoulddoubtlessbeincitedandencouragedtodeedsofviolencebythelatefearfulcatastrophe。InthisjunctureMr。M’Dougal,wearetold,hadrecoursetoastratagembywhichtoavailhimselfoftheignoranceandcredulityofthesavages,andwhichcertainlydoescredittohisingenuity。 Thenativesofthecoast,and,indeed,ofalltheregionswestofthemountains,hadanextremedreadofthesmall-pox;thatterrificscourgehaving,afewyearspreviously,appearedamongthem,andalmostsweptoffentiretribes。Itsoriginandnaturewerewrappedinmystery,andtheyconceiveditanevilinflicteduponthembytheGreatSpirit,orbroughtamongthembythewhitemen。ThelastideawasseizeduponbyMr。M’Dougal。Heassembledseveralofthechieftainswhomhebelievedtobeintheconspiracy。Whentheywereallseatedaround,heinformedthemthathehadheardofthetreacheryofsomeoftheirnorthernbrethrentowardstheTonquin,andwasdeterminedonvengeance。 “Thewhitemenamongyou。”saidhe,“arefewinnumber,itistrue,buttheyaremightyinmedicine。Seehere。”continuedhe,drawingforthasmallbottleandholdingitbeforetheireyes,“inthisbottleIholdthesmall-pox,safelycorkedup;Ihavebuttodrawthecork,andletloosethepestilence,tosweepman,woman,andchildfromthefaceoftheearth。” Thechiefswerestruckwithhorrorandalarm。Theyimploredhimnottouncorkthebottle,sincetheyandalltheirpeoplewerefirmfriendsofthewhitemen,andwouldalwaysremainso;but,shouldthesmall-poxbeonceletout,itwouldrunlikewildfirethroughoutthecountry,sweepingoffthegoodaswellasthebad; andsurelyhewouldnotbesounjustastopunishhisfriendsforcrimescommittedbyhisenemies。 Mr。M’Dougalpretendedtobeconvincedbytheirreasoning,andassuredthemthat,solongasthewhitepeopleshouldbeunmolested,andtheconductoftheirIndianneighborsfriendlyandhospitable,thephialofwrathshouldremainsealedup;but,ontheleasthostility,thefatalcorkshouldbedrawn。 Fromthistime,itisadded,hewasmuchdreadedbythenatives,asonewhoheldtheirfateinhishands,andwascalled,bywayofpreeminence,“theGreatSmall-poxChief。” Allthiswhile,thelaborsattheinfantsettlementwentonwithunremittingassiduity,and,bythe26thofSeptember,acommodiousmansion,spaciousenoughtoaccommodateallhands,wascompleted。Itwasbuiltofstoneandclay,therebeingnocalcarcousstoneintheneighborhoodfromwhichlimeformortarcouldbeprocured。Theschoonerwasalsofinished,andlaunched,withtheaccustomedceremony,onthesecondofOctober,andtookherstationbelowthefort。ShewasnamedtheDolly,andwasthefirstAmericanvessellaunchedonthiscoast。 Onthe5thofOctober,intheevening,thelittlecommunityatAstoriawasenlivenedbytheunexpectedarrivalofadetachmentfromMr。DavidStuart’spostontheOakinagan。Itconsistedoftwooftheclerksandtwooftheprivates。Theybroughtfavorableaccountsofthenewestablishment,butreportedthat,asMr。 Stuartwasapprehensivetheremightbeadifficultyofsubsistinghiswholepartythroughoutthewinter,hehadsentonehalfbacktoAstoria,retainingwithhimonlyRoss,Montigny,andtwoothers。SuchisthehardihoodoftheIndiantrader。Intheheartofasavageandunknowncountry,sevenhundredmilesfromthemainbodyofhisfellow-adventurers,Stuarthaddismissedhalfofhislittlenumber,andwaspreparedwiththeresiduetobravealltheperilsofthewilderness,andtherigorsofalonganddrearywinter。 WiththereturnpartycameaCanadiancreolenamedRegisBrugiereandanIroquoishunter,withhiswifeandtwochildren。Asthesetwopersonagesbelongtocertainclasseswhichhavederivedtheirpeculiarcharacteristicsfromthefurtrade,wedeemsomefewparticularsconcerningthempertinenttothenatureofthiswork。 Brugierewasofaclassofbeavertrappersandhunterstechnicallycalled“Freemen。”inthelanguageofthetraders。 TheyaregenerallyCanadiansbybirth,andofFrenchdescent,whohavebeenemployedforatermofyearsbysomefurcompany,but,theirtermbeingexpired,continuetohuntandtrapontheirownaccount,tradingwiththecompanyliketheIndians。HencetheyderivetheirappellationofFreemen,todistinguishthemfromthetrapperswhoareboundforanumberofyears,andreceivewages,orhuntonshares。 Havingpassedtheirearlyyouthinthewilderness,separatedalmostentirelyfromcivilizedman,andinfrequentintercoursewiththeIndians,theyrelapse,withafacilitycommontohumannature,intothehabitudesofsavagelife。Thoughnolongerboundbyengagementstocontinueintheinterior,theyhavebecomesoaccustomedtothefreedomoftheforestandtheprairie,thattheylookbackwithrepugnanceupontherestraintsofcivilization。Mostofthemintermarrywiththenatives,and,likethelatter,haveoftenapluralityofwives。Wanderersofthewilderness,accordingtothevicissitudesoftheseasons,themigrationsofanimals,andtheplentyorscarcityofgame,theyleadaprecariousandunsettledexistence;exposedtosunandstorm,andallkindsofhardships,untiltheyresembleIndiansincomplexionaswellasintastesandhabits。Fromtimetotime,theybringthepeltriestheyhavecollectedtothetradinghousesofthecompanyinwhoseemploytheyhavebeenbroughtup。Heretheytrafficthemawayforsucharticlesofmerchandiseorammunitionastheymaystandinneedof。AtthetimewhenMontrealwasthegreatemporiumofthefurtrader,oneofthesefreemenofthewildernesswouldsuddenlyreturn,afteranabsenceofmanyyears,amonghisoldfriendsandcomrades。Hewouldbegreetedasonerisenfromthedead;andwiththegreaterwelcome,ashereturnedflushofmoney。Ashorttime,however,spentinrevelry,wouldbesufficienttodrainhispurseandsatehimwithcivilizedlife,andhewouldreturnwithnewrelishtotheunshackledfreedomoftheforest。 Numbersofmenofthisclasswerescatteredthroughoutthenorthwestterritories。Someofthemretainedalittleofthethriftandforethoughtofthecivilizedman,andbecamewealthyamongtheirimprovidentneighbors;theirwealthbeingchieflydisplayedinlargebandsofhorses,whichcoveredtheprairiesinthevicinityoftheirabodes。Mostofthem,however,werepronetoassimilatetotheredmanintheirheedlessnessofthefuture。 SuchwasRegisBrugiere,afreemanandroverofthewilderness。 HavingbeenbroughtupintheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany,hehadfollowedinthetrainofoneofitsexpeditionsacrosstheRockyMountains,andundertakentotrapforthetradingpostestablishedontheSpokanRiver。Inthecourseofhishuntingexcursionshehadeitheraccidentally,ordesignedly,foundhiswaytothepostofMr。Stuart,andhadbeenprevailedupontoascendtheColumbia,and“tryhisluck“atAstoria。 IgnaceShonowane,theIroquoishunter,wasaspecimenofadifferentclass。HewasoneofthoseaboriginalsofCanadawhohadpartiallyconformedtothehabitsofcivilizationandthedoctrinesofChristianity,undertheinfluenceoftheFrenchcolonistsandtheCatholicpriests;whoseemgenerallytohavebeenmoresuccessfulinconciliating,taming,andconvertingthesavages,thantheirEnglishandProtestantrivals。Thesehalf- civilizedIndiansretainedsomeofthegood,andmanyoftheevilqualitiesoftheiroriginalstock。Theywerefirst-ratehunters,anddexterousinthemanagementofthecanoe。Theycouldundergogreatprivations,andwereadmirablefortheserviceoftherivers,lakes,andforests,providedtheycouldbekeptsober,andinpropersubordination;butonceinflamedwithliquor,towhichtheyweremadlyaddicted,allthedormantpassionsinherentintheirnaturewerepronetobreakforth,andtohurrythemintothemostvindictiveandbloodyactsofviolence。 ThoughtheygenerallyprofessedtheRomanCatholicreligion,yetitwasmixed,occasionally,withsomeoftheirancientsuperstitions;andtheyretainedmuchoftheIndianbeliefincharmsandomens。NumbersofthesemenwereemployedbytheNorthwestCompanyastrappers,hunters,andcanoemen,butonlowertermsthanwereallowedtowhitemen。IgnaceShonowanehad,inthisway,followedtheenterpriseofthecompanytothebanksoftheSpokan,being,probably,oneofthefirstofhistribethathadtraversedtheRockyMountains。 Suchweresomeofthemotleypopulaceofthewilderness,incidenttothefurtrade,whoweregraduallyattractedtothenewsettlementofAstoria。 ThemonthofOctobernowbegantogiveindicationsofapproachingwinter。Hitherto,thecolonistshadbeenwellpleasedwiththeclimate。Thesummerhadbeentemperate,themercuryneverrisingaboveeightydegrees。Westerlywindshadprevailedduringthespringandtheearlypartofthesummer,andbeensucceededbyfreshbreezesfromthenorthwest。InthemonthofOctoberthesoutherlywindssetin,bringingwiththemfrequentrain。 TheIndiansnowbegantoquitthebordersoftheocean,andtoretiretotheirwinterquartersintheshelteredbosomoftheforests,oralongthesmallriversandbrooks。Therainyseason,whichcommencesinOctober,continues,withlittleintermission,untilApril;andthoughthewintersaregenerallymild,themercuryseldomsinkingbelowthefreezingpoint,yetthetempestsofwindandrainareterrible。Thesunissometimesobscuredforweeks,thebrooksswellintoroaringtorrents,andthecountryisthreatenedwithadeluge。 ThedepartureoftheIndianstotheirwinterquartersgraduallyrenderedprovisionsscanty,andobligedthecoloniststosendoutforagingexpeditionsintheDolly。StillthelittlehandfulofadventurerskeptuptheirspiritsintheirlonelyfortatAstoria,lookingforwardtothetimewhentheyshouldbeanimatedandreinforcedbythepartyunderMr。Hunt,thatwastocometothemacrosstheRockyMountains。 Theyeargraduallyworeway。Therain,whichhadpoureddownalmostincessantlysincethefirstofOctober,cleareduptowardstheeveningofthe31stofDecember,andthemorningofthefirstofJanuaryusheredinadayofsunshine。 ThehereditaryFrenchholidayspiritoftheFrenchvoyageursishardlytobedepressedbyanyadversities;andtheycanmanagetogetupafeteinthemostsqualidsituations,andunderthemostuntowardcircumstances。Anextraallowanceofrum,andalittleflourtomakecakesandpuddings,constitutea“regale;“andtheyforgetalltheirtoilsandtroublesinthesonganddance。 Onthepresentoccasion,thepartnersendeavoredtocelebratethenewyearwithsomeeffect。Atsunrisethedrumsbeattoarms,thecolorswerehoisted,withthreeroundsofsmallarmsandthreedischargesofcannon。Thedaywasdevotedtogamesofagilityandstrength,andotheramusements;andgrogwastemperatelydistributed,togetherwithbread,butter,andcheese。Thebestdinnertheircircumstancescouldaffordwasservedupatmidday。 Atsunsetthecolorswerelowered,withanotherdischargeofartillery。Thenightwasspentindancing;and,thoughtherewasalackoffemalepartnerstoexcitetheirgallantry,thevoyageurskeptuptheballwithtrueFrenchspirit,untilthreeo’clockinthemorning。Sopassedthenewyearfestivalof1812 attheinfantcolonyofAstoria。 CHAPTERXIII。 ExpeditionbyLand-WilsonP。Hunt-HisCharacter-DonaldM’Kenzie-RecruitingServiceAmongtheVoyageurs-ABarkCanoe-ChapelofSt。Anne-VotiveOfferings-PiousCarousals,- ARaggedRegiment-Mackinaw-PictureofaTradingPost- FrolickingVoyageurs-SwellsandSwaggerers-IndianCoxcombs-A ManoftheNorth-JockeyshipofVoyageurs-InefficacyofGold- WeightofaFeather-Mr。RamsayCrooks-HisCharacter-HisRisksAmongtheIndians-HisWarningConcerningSiouxandBlackfeet- EmbarkationofRecruits-PartingScenesBetweenBrothers,Cousins,Wives,Sweethearts,andPotCompanions。 WEhavefollowedupthefortunesofthemaritimepartofthisenterprisetotheshoresofthePacific,andhaveconductedtheaffairsoftheembryoestablishmenttotheopeningofthenewyear;letusnowturnbacktotheadventurousbandtowhomwasintrustedthelandexpedition,andwhoweretomaketheirwaytothemouthoftheColumbia,upvastrivers,acrosstracklessplains,andovertheruggedbarriersoftheRockyMountains。 Theconductofthisexpedition,ashasbeenalreadymentioned,wasassignedtoMr。WilsonPriceHunt,ofTrenton,NewJersey,oneofthepartnersofthecompany,whowasultimatelytobeattheheadoftheestablishmentatthemouthoftheColumbia。Heisrepresentedasamanscrupulouslyuprightandfaithfulhisdealings,amicableinhisdisposition,andofmostaccommodatingmanners;andhiswholeconductwillbefoundinunisonwithsuchacharacter。HewasnotpracticallyexperiencedintheIndiantrade;thatistosay,hehadnevermadeanyexpeditionsoftrafficintotheheartofthewilderness,buthehadbeenengagedincommerceatSt。Louis,thenafrontiersettlementontheMississippi,wherethechiefbranchofhisbusinesshadconsistedinfurnishingIndiantraderswithgoodsandequipments。Inthisway,hehadacquiredmuchknowledgeofthetradeatsecondhand,andofthevarioustribes,andtheinteriorcountryoverwhichitextended。 Anotherofthepartners,Mr。DonaldM’Kenzie,wasassociatedwithMr。Huntintheexpedition,andexcelledonthosepointsinwhichtheotherwasdeficient;forhehadbeentenyearsintheinterior,intheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany,andvaluedhimselfonhisknowledgeof“woodcraft。”andthestrategyofIndiantradeandIndianwarfare。Hehadaframeseasonedtotoilsandhardships;aspiritnottobeintimidated,andwasreputedtobea“remarkableshot;“whichofitselfwassufficienttogivehimrenownuponthefrontier。 Mr。Huntandhiscoadjutorrepaired,aboutthelatterpartofJuly,1810,toMontreal,theancientemporiumofthefurtradewhereeverythingrequisitefortheexpeditioncouldbeprocured。 OneofthefirstobjectswastorecruitacomplementofCanadianvoyageursfromthedisbandedherdusuallytobefoundloiteringabouttheplace。Adegreeofjockeyship,however,isrequiredforthisservice,foraCanadianvoyageurisasfulloflatenttricksandviceasahorse;andwhenhemakesthegreatestexternalpromise,ispronetoprovethegreatest“takein。”Besides,theNorthwestCompany,whomaintainedalongestablishedcontrolatMontreal,andknewthequalitiesofeveryvoyageur,secretlyinterdictedtheprimehandsfromengaginginthisnewservice;sothat,althoughliberaltermswereoffered,fewpresentedthemselvesbutsuchaswerenotworthhaving。 FromtheseMr。Huntengagedanumbersufficient,ashesupposed,forpresentpurposes;and,havinglaidinasupplyofammunition,provisions,andIndiangoods,embarkedallonboardoneofthosegreatcanoesatthattimeuniversallyusedbythefurtradersfornavigatingtheintricateandoften-obstructedrivers。Thecanoewasbetweenthirtyandfortyfeetlong,andseveralfeetinwidth;constructedofbirchbark,sewedwithfibresoftherootsofthesprucetree,anddaubedwithresinofthepine,insteadoftar。Thecargowasmadeupinpackages,weighingfromninetytoonehundredpoundseach,forthefacilityofloadingandunloading,andoftransportationatportages。Thecanoeitself,thoughcapableofsustainingafreightofupwardsoffourtons,couldreadilybecarriedonmen’sshoulders。Canoesofthissizearegenerallymanagedbyeightortenmen,twoofwhomarepickedveterans,whoreceivedoublewages,andarestationed,oneatthebowandtheotheratthestern,tokeepalook-outandtosteer。 Theyaretermedtheforemanandthesteersman。Therest,whoplythepaddles,arecalledmiddlemen。Whenthereisafavorablebreeze,thecanoeisoccasionallynavigatedwithasail。 Theexpeditiontookitsregulardeparture,asusual,fromSt。 Anne’s,neartheextremityoftheislandofMontreal,thegreatstarting-placeofthetraderstotheinterior。HerestoodtheancientchapelofSt。Anne,thepatronessoftheCanadianvoyageurs;wheretheymadeconfession,andoffereduptheirvows,previoustodepartingonanyhazardousexpedition。Theshrineofthesaintwasdecoratedwithrelicsandvotiveofferingshungupbythesesuperstitiousbeings,eithertopropitiateherfavor,oringratitudeforsomesignaldeliveranceinthewilderness。Itwasthecustom,too,ofthesedevoutvagabonds,afterleavingthechapel,tohaveagrandcarouse,inhonorofthesaintandfortheprosperityofthevoyage。Inthispartoftheirdevotions,thecrewofMr。Huntprovedthemselvesbynomeansdeficient。 Indeed,hesoondiscoveredthathisrecruits,enlistedatMontreal,werefittoviewiththeraggedregimentofFalstaff。 Somewereable-bodied,butinexpert;otherswereexpert,butlazy;whileathirdclasswereexpertandwilling,buttotallywornout,beingbroken-downveterans,incapableoftoil。 WiththisinefficientcrewhemadehiswayuptheOttawaRiver,andbytheancientrouteofthefurtraders,alongasuccessionofsmalllakesandrivers,toMichilimackinac。Theirprogresswasslowandtedious。Mr。Huntwasnotaccustomedtothemanagementof“voyageurs。”andhehadacrewadmirablydisposedtoplaytheoldsoldier,andbalktheirwork;andeverreadytocometoahalt,land,makeafire,putonthegreatpot,andsmoke,andgossip,andsingbythehour。 Itwasnotuntilthe22dofJulythattheyarrivedatMackinaw,situatedontheislandofthesamename,attheconfluenceof- lakesHuronandMichigan。ThisfamousoldFrenchtradingpostcontinuedtobearallyingpointforamultifariousandmotleypopulation。Theinhabitantswereamphibiousintheirhabits,mostofthembeing,orhavingbeenvoyageursorcanoemen。Itwasthegreatplaceofarrivalanddepartureofthesouthwestfurtrade。 HeretheMackinawCompanyhadestablisheditsprincipalpost,fromwhenceitcommunicatedwiththeinteriorandwithMontreal。 HenceitsvarioustradersandtrapperssetoutfortheirrespectivedestinationsaboutLakeSuperioranditstributarywaters,orfortheMississippi,theArkansas,theMissouri,andtheotherregionsofthewest。Here,aftertheabsenceofayear,ormore,theyreturnedwiththeirpeltries,andsettledtheiraccounts;thefursrenderedinbythembeingtransmittedincanoesfromhencetoMontreal。Mackinawwas,therefore,foragreatpartoftheyear,veryscantilypeopled;butatcertainseasonsthetradersarrivedfromallpoints,withtheircrewsofvoyageurs,andtheplaceswarmedlikeahive。 Mackinaw,atthattime,wasamerevillage,stretchingalongasmallbay,withafinebroadbeachinfrontofitsprincipalrowofhouses,anddominatedbytheoldfort,whichcrownedanimpendingheight。Thebeachwasakindofpublicpromenadewhereweredisplayedallthevagariesofaseaportonthearrivalofafleetfromalongcruise。Herevoyageursfrolickedawaytheirwages,fiddlinganddancingintheboothsandcabins,buyingallkindsofknick-knacks,dressingthemselvesoutfinely,andparadingupanddown,likearrantbraggartsandcoxcombs。 SometimestheymetwithrivalcoxcombsintheyoungIndiansfromtheoppositeshore,whowouldappearonthebeachpaintedanddecoratedinfantasticstyle,andwouldsaunterupanddown,tobegazedatandadmired,perfectlysatisfiedthattheyeclipsedtheirpale-faccdcompetitors。 Nowandthenachancepartyof“Northwesters“appearedatMackinawfromtherendezvousatFortWilliam。Theseheldthemselvesupasthechivalryofthefurtrade。Theyweremenofiron;proofagainstcoldweather,hardfare,andperilsofallkinds。SomewouldweartheNorthwestbutton,andaformidabledirk,andassumesomethingofamilitaryair。Theygenerallyworefeathersintheirhats,andaffectedthe“brave。”“Jesuisunhommedunord!“-“Iamamanofthenorth。”-oneoftheseswellingfellowswouldexclaim,stickinghisarmsakimboandrufflingbytheSouthwesters,whomheregardedwithgreatcontempt,asmensoftenedbymildclimatesandtheluxuriousfareofbreadandbacon,andwhomhestigmatizedwiththeingloriousnameofpork- eaters。Thesuperiorityassumedbythesevaingloriousswaggererswas,ingeneral,tacitlyadmitted。Indeed,someofthemhadacquiredgreatnotorietyfordeedsofhardihoodandcourage;forthefurtradehadItsheroes,whosenamesresoundedthroughoutthewilderness。 SuchwasMackinawatthetimeofwhichwearetreating。Itnow,doubtless,presentsatotallydifferentaspect。Thefurcompaniesnolongerassemblethere;thenavigationofthelakeiscarriedonbysteamboatsandvariousshipping,andtheraceoftraders,andtrappers,andvoyageurs,andIndiandandies,havevaporedouttheirbriefhouranddisappeared。Suchchangesdoesthelapseofahandfulofyearsmakeinthisever-changingcountry。 AtthisplaceMr。Huntremainedforsometime,tocompletehisassortmentofIndiangoods,andtoincreasehisnumberofvoyageurs,aswellastoengagesomeofamoreefficientcharacterthanthoseenlistedatMontreal。 AndnowcommencedanothergameofJockeyship。TherewereableandefficientmeninabundanceatMackinaw,butforseveraldaysnotonepresentedhimself。Ifoffersweremadetoany,theywerelistenedtowithashakeofthehead。Shouldanyoneseeminclinedtoenlist,therewereofficiousidlersandbusybodies,ofthatclasswhoareeverreadytodissuadeothersfromanyenterpriseinwhichtheythemselveshavenoconcern。Thesewouldpullhimbythesleeve,takehimononeside,andmurmurinhisear,orwouldsuggestdifficultiesoutright。 itwasobjectedthattheexpeditionwouldhavetonavigateunknownrivers,andpassthroughhowlingwildernessesinfestedbysavagetribes,whohadalreadycutofftheunfortunatevoyageursthathadventuredamongthem;thatitwastoclimbtheRockyMountainsanddescendintodesolateandfamishedregions,wherethetravellerwasoftenobligedtosubsistongrasshoppersandcrickets,ortokillhisownhorseforfood。 Atlengthonemanwashardyenoughtoengage,andhewasusedlikea“stool-pigeon。”todecoyothers;butseveraldayselapsedbeforeanymorecouldbeprevailedupontojoinhim。Afewthencametoterms。Itwasdesirabletoengagethemforfiveyears,butsomerefusedtoengageformorethanthree。Thentheymusthavepartoftheirpayinadvance,whichwasreadilygranted。