第7章

类别:其他 作者:Washington Irving字数:30948更新时间:18/12/21 16:57:53
Thegrizzlybearistheonlyreallyformidablequadrupedofourcontinent。HeisthefavoritethemeofthehuntersofthefarWest,whodescribehimasequalinsizetoacommoncowandofprodigiousstrength。Hemakesbattleifassailed,andoften,ifpressedbyhunger,istheassailant。Ifwounded,hebecomesfuriousandwillpursuethehunter。Hisspeedexceedsthatofamanbutisinferiortothatofahorse。Inattackingherearshimselfonhishindlegs,andspringsthelengthofhisbody。Woetohorseorriderthatcomeswithinthesweepofhisterrificclaws,whicharesometimesnineinchesinlength,andteareverythingbeforethem。 Atthetimewearetreatingof,thegrizzlybearwasstillfrequentontheMissouriandinthelowercountry,but,likesomeofthebrokentribesoftheprairie,hehasgraduallyfallenbackbeforehisenemies,andisnowchieflytobefoundintheuplandregions,inruggedfastnesseslikethoseoftheBlackHillsandtheRockyMountains。Herehelurksincaverns,orholeswhichhehasdiggedinthesidesofhills,orundertherootsandtrunksoffallentrees。Likethecommonbear,heisfondoffruits,andmast,androots,thelatterofwhichhewilldigupwithhisforeclaws。Heiscarnivorousalso,andwillevenattackandconquerthelordlybuffalo,dragginghishugecarcasstotheneighborhoodofhisden,thathemaypreyuponitathisleisure。 Thehunters,bothwhiteandredmen,considerthisthemostheroicgame。Theyprefertohunthimonhorseback,andwillventuresonearassometimestosingehishairwiththeflashoftherifle。Thehunterofthegrizzlybear,however,mustbeanexperiencedhand,andknowwheretoaimatavitalpart;forofallquadrupeds,heisthemostdifficulttobekilled。Hewillreceiverepeatedwoundswithoutflinching,andrarelyisashotmortalunlessthroughtheheadorheart。 Thatthedangersapprehendedfromthegrizzlybear,atthisnightencampment,werenotimaginary,wasprovedonthefollowingmorning。AmongthehiredmenofthepartywasoneWilliamCannon,whohadbeenasoldieratoneofthefrontierposts,andenteredintotheemployofMr。HuntatMackinaw。Hewasaninexperiencedhunterandapoorshot,forwhichhewasmuchbanteredbyhismoreadroitcomrades。Piquedattheirraillery,hehadbeenpracticingeversincehehadjoinedtheexpedition,butwithoutsuccess。Inthecourseofthepresentafternoon,hewentforthbyhimselftotakealessoninvenerieand,tohisgreatdelight,hadthegoodfortunetokillabuffalo。Ashewasaconsiderabledistancefromthecamp,hecutoutthetongueandsomeofthechoicebits,madethemintoaparcel,andslingingthemonhisshouldersbyastrappassedroundhisforehead,asthevoyageurscarrypackagesofgoods,setoutallgloriousforthecamp,anticipatingatriumphoverhisbrotherhunters。Inpassingthroughanarrowravine,heheardanoisebehindhim,andlookingroundbeheld,tohisdismay,agrizzlybearinfullpursuit,apparentlyattractedbythescentofthemeat。Cannonhadheardsomuchoftheinvulnerabilityofthistremendousanimal,thatheneverattemptedtofire,but,slippingthestrapfromhisforehead,letgothebuffalomeatandranforhislife。 Thebeardidnotstoptoregalehimselfwiththegame,butkeptonafterthehunter。HehadnearlyovertakenhimwhenCannonreachedatree,and,throwingdownhisriflescrambledupit。ThenextinstantBruinwasatthefootofthetree;but,asthisspeciesofbeardoesnotclimb,hecontentedhimselfwithturningthechaseintoablockade。Nightcameon。InthedarknessCannoncouldnotperceivewhetherornottheenemymaintainedhisstation;buthisfearspicturedhimrigorouslymountingguard。Hepassedthenight,therefore,inthetree,apreytodismalfancies。Inthemorningthebearwasgone。Cannonwarilydescendedthetree,gathereduphisgun,andmadethebestofhiswaybacktothecamp,withoutventuringtolookafterhisbuffalomeat。 Whileonthisthemewewilladdanotheranecdoteofanadventurewithagrizzlybear,toldofJohnDay,theKentuckyhunter,butwhichhappenedatadifferentperiodoftheexpedition。Daywashuntingincompanywithoneoftheclerksofthecompany,alivelyyoungster,whowasagreatfavoritewiththeveteran,butwhosevivacityhehadcontinuallytokeepincheck。Theywereinsearchofdeer,whensuddenlyahugegrizzlybearemergedfromathicketaboutthirtyyardsdistant,rearinghimselfuponhishindlegswithaterrificgrowl,anddisplayingahideousarrayofteethandclaws。Therifleoftheyoungmanwasleveledinaninstant,butJohnDay’sironhandwasasquicklyuponhisarm。 “Bequiet,boy!bequiet!“exclaimedthehunterbetweenhisclenchedteeth,andwithoutturninghiseyesfromthebear。Theyremainedmotionless。Themonsterregardedthemforatime,then,loweringhimselfonhisforepaws,slowlywithdrew。Hehadnotgonemanypaces,beforeheagainreturned,rearedhimselfonhishindlegs,andrepeatedhismenace。Day’shandwasstillonthearmofhisyoungcompanion;heagainpressedithard,andkeptrepeatingbetweenhisteeth,“Quiet,boy!-keepquiet!-keepquiet!“-thoughthelatterhadnotmadeamovesincehisfirstprohibition。Thebearagainloweredhimselfonallfours,retreatedsometwentyyardsfurther,andagainturned,reared,showedhisteeth,andgrowled。ThisthirdmenacewastoomuchforthegamespiritofJohnDay。“ByJove!“exclaimedhe,“Icanstandthisnolonger。”andinaninstantaballfromhisriflewhizzedintohisfoe。Thewoundwasnotmortal;but,luckily,itdismayedinsteadofenragedtheanimal,andheretreatedintothethicket。 Day’scompanionreproachedhimfornotpracticingthecautionwhichheenjoineduponothers。“Why,boy。”repliedtheveteran,“cautioniscaution,butonemustnotputupwithtoomuch,evenfromabear。Wouldyouhavemesuffermyselftobebulliedalldaybyavarmint?” CHAPTERXXVII。 IndianTrail-RoughMountainTravelling-SufferingsFromHungerandThirst-PowderRiver-GameinAbundance-AHunter’sParadise-MountainPeakSeenataGreatDistance-OneoftheBighornChain-RockyMountains-Extent-Appearance-Height- TheGreatAmericanDesert-VariousCharacteristicsoftheMountains-IndianSuperstitionsConcerningThem-LandofSouls-TownsoftheFreeandGenerousSpirits-HappyHuntingGrounds。 FORthetwofollowingdays,thetravellerspursuedawesterlycourseforthirty-fourmilesalongaridgeofcountrydividingthetributarywatersoftheMissouriandtheYellowstone。Aslandmarkstheyguidedthemselvesbythesummitsofthefardistantmountains,whichtheysupposedtobelongtotheBighornchain。Theyweregraduallyrisingintoahighertemperature,fortheweatherwascoldfortheseason,withasharpfrostinthenight,andiceofaneighthofaninchinthickness。 Onthetwenty-secondofAugust,earlyintheday,theycameuponthetrailofanumerousband。Roseandtheotherhuntersexaminedthefoot-printswithgreatattention,anddeterminedittobethetrailofapartyofCrows,returningfromanannualtradingvisittotheMandans。Asthistrailaffordedmorecommodioustravelling,theyimmediatelystruckintoit,andfolloweditfortwodays。Itledthemoverroughhills,andthroughbrokengullies,duringwhichtimetheysufferedgreatfatiguefromtheruggednessofthecountry。Theweather,too,whichhadrecentlybeenfrosty,wasnowoppressivelywarm,andtherewasagreatscarcityofwater,insomuchthatavaluabledogbelongingtoMr。 M’Kenziediedofthirst。 Atonetimetheyhadtwenty-fivemilesofpainfultravel,withoutadropofwater,untiltheyarrivedatasmallrunningstream。 Heretheyeagerlyslakedtheirthirst;but,thisbeingallayed,thecallsofhungerbecameequallyimportunate。Eversincetheyhadgotamongthesebarrenandaridhillswheretherewasadeficiencyofgrass,theyhadmetwithnobuffaloes;thoseanimalskeepinginthegrassymeadowsnearthestreams。Theywereobliged,therefore,tohaverecoursetotheircornmeal,whichtheyreservedforsuchemergencies。Some,however,wereluckyenoughtokillawolf,whichtheycookedforsupper,andpronouncedexcellentfood。 Thenextmorningtheyresumedtheirwayfaring,hungryandjaded,andhadadoggedmarchofeighteenmilesamongthesamekindofhills。Atlengththeyemergeduponastreamofclearwater,oneoftheforksofPowderRiver,andtotheirgreatjoybeheldoncemorewidegrassymeadows,stockedwithherdsofbuffalo。Forseveraldaystheykeptalongthebanksoftheriver,ascendingitabouteighteenmiles。Itwasahunter’sparadise;thebuffaloeswereinsuchabundancethattheywereenabledtokillasmanyastheypleased,andtojerkasufficientsupplyofmeatforseveraldays’journeying。Here,then,theyreveledandreposedaftertheirhungryandwearytravel,huntingandfeasting,andreclininguponthegrass。Theirquiet,however,wasalittlemarredbycomingupontracesofIndians,who,theyconcluded,mustbeCrows:theywerethereforeobligedtokeepamorevigilantwatchthaneverupontheirhorses。ForseveraldaystheyhadbeendirectingtheirmarchtowardstheloftymountaindescriedbyMr。HuntandMr。M’Kenzieonthe17thofAugust,theheightofwhichrendereditalandmarkoveravastextentofcountry。Atfirstithadappearedtothemsolitaryanddetached; butastheyadvancedtowardsit,itprovedtobetheprincipalsummitofachainofmountains。Daybydayitvariedinform,orratheritslowerpeaks,andthesummitsofothersofthechainemergedabovetheclearhorizon,andfinallytheinferiorlineofhillswhichconnectedmostofthemrosetoview。Sofar,however,areobjectsdiscernibleinthepureatmosphereoftheseelevatedplains,that,fromtheplacewheretheyfirstdescriedthemainmountain,theyhadtotravelahundredandfiftymilesbeforetheyreacheditsbase。Heretheyencampedonthe30thofAugust,havingcomenearlyfourhundredmilessinceleavingtheArickaravillage。 ThemountainwhichnowtoweredabovethemwasoneoftheBighornchain,borderedbyariver,ofthesamename,andextendingforalongdistancerathereastofnorthandwestofsouth。ItwasapartofthegreatsystemofgranitemountainswhichformsoneofthemostimportantandstrikingfeaturesofNorthAmerica,stretchingparalleltothecoastofthePacificfromtheIsthmusofPanamaalmosttotheArcticOcean;andpresentingacorrespondingchaintothatoftheAndesinthesouthernhemisphere。Thisvastrangehasacquired,fromitsruggedandbrokencharacteranditssummitsofnakedgranite,theappellationoftheRockyMountains,anamebynomeansdistinctive,asallelevatedrangesarerocky。AmongtheearlyexplorersitwasknownastherangeofChippewyanMountains,andthisIndiannameistheoneitislikelytoretaininpoeticusage。Risingfromthemidstofvastplainsandprairies,traversingseveraldegreesoflatitude,dividingthewatersoftheAtlanticandthePacific,andseemingtobindwithdivergingridgesthelevelregionsonitsflanks,ithasbeenfigurativelytermedthebackboneofthenortherncontinent。 TheRockyMountainsdonotpresentarangeofuniformelevation,butrathergroupsandoccasionallydetachedpeaks。Thoughsomeoftheserisetotheregionofperpetualsnows,andareupwardsofeleventhousandfeetinrealaltitude,yettheirheightfromtheirimmediatebasisisnotsogreatasmightbeimagined,astheyswellupfromelevatedplains,severalthousandfeetabovetheleveloftheocean。Theseplainsareoftenofadesolatesterility;meresandywastes,formedofthedetritusofthegraniteheights,destituteoftreesandherbage,scorchedbytheardentandreflectedraysofthesummer’ssun,andinwintersweptbychillingblastsfromthesnow-cladmountains。Suchisagreatpartofthatvastregionextendingnorthandsouthalongthemountains,severalhundredmilesinwidth,whichhasnotimproperlybeentermedtheGreatAmericanDesert。Itisaregionthatalmostdiscouragesallhopeofcultivation,andcanonlybetraversedwithsafetybykeepingnearthestreamswhichintersectit。Extensiveplainslikewiseoccuramongthehigherregionsofthemountains,ofconsiderablefertility。Indeed,theseloftyplatsoftable-landseemtoformapeculiarfeatureintheAmericancontinents。SomeoccuramongtheCordillerasoftheAndes,wherecities,andtowns,andcultivatedfarmsaretobeseeneightthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea。 TheRockyMountains,aswehavealreadyobserved,occursometimessinglyoringroups,andoccasionallyincollateralridges。 Betweenthesearedeepvalleys,withsmallstreamswindingthroughthem,whichfindtheirwayintothelowerplains,augmentingastheyproceed,andultimatelydischargingthemselvesintothosevastrivers,whichtraversetheprairieslikegreatarteries,anddrainthecontinent。 WhilethegraniticsummitsoftheRockyMountainsarebleakandbare,manyoftheinferiorridgesarescantilyclothedwithscrubbedpines,oaks,cedar,andfurze。Variouspartsofthemountainsalsobeartracesofvolcanicaction。Someoftheinteriorvalleysarestrewedwithscoriaandbrokenstones,evidentlyofvolcanicorigin;thesurroundingrocksbearthelikecharacter,andvestigesofextinguishedcratersaretobeseenontheelevatedheights。 WehavealreadynoticedthesuperstitiousfeelingswithwhichtheIndiansregardtheBlackHills;butthisimmenserangeofmountains,whichdividesallthattheyknowoftheworld,andgivesbirthtosuchmightyrivers,isstillmoreanobjectofaweandveneration。Theycallit“thecrestoftheworld。”andthinkthatWacondah,orthemasteroflife,astheydesignatetheSupremeBeing,hashisresidenceamongtheseaerialheights。Thetribesontheeasternprairiescallthemthemountainsofthesettingsun。Someofthemplacethe“happyhunting-grounds。” theiridealparadise,amongtherecessesofthesemountains;butsaythattheyareinvisibletolivingmen。Herealsoisthe“LandofSouls。”inwhicharethe“townsofthefreeandgenerousspirits。”wherethosewhohavepleasedthemasteroflifewhileliving,enjoyafterdeathallmannerofdelights。 Wondersaretoldofthesemountainsbythedistanttribes,whosewarriorsorhuntershaveeverwanderedintheirneighborhood。Itisthoughtbysomethat,afterdeath,theywillhavetotraveltothesemountainsandascendoneoftheirhighestandmostruggedpeaks,amongrocksandsnowsandtumblingtorrents。Aftermanymoonsofpainfultoiltheywillreachthesummit,fromwhencetheywillhaveaviewoverthelandofsouls。Theretheywillseethehappyhunting-grounds,withthesoulsofthebraveandgoodlivingintentsingreenmeadows,bybrightrunningstreams,orhuntingtheherdsofbuffalo,andelk,anddeer,whichhavebeenslainonearth。There,too,theywillseethevillagesortownsofthefreeandgenerousspiritsbrighteninginthemidstofdeliciousprairies。Iftheyhaveacquittedthemselveswellwhileliving,theywillbepermittedtodescendandenjoythishappycountry;ifotherwisetheywillbutbetantalizedwiththisprospectofit,andthenhurledbackfromthemountaintowanderaboutthesandyplains,andenduretheeternalpangsofunsatisfiedthirstandhunger。 CHAPTERXXVIII。 RegionoftheCrowIndians-ScoutsontheLookout-VisitFromaCrewofHardRiders-ACrowCamp-PresentstotheCrowChief- Bargaining-CrowBullies-RoseAmongHisIndianFriends-PartingWiththeCrows-PerplexitiesAmongtheMountains-MoreoftheCrows-EquestrianChildren-SearchAfterStragglers。 THEtravellershadnowarrivedinthevicinityofthemountainregionsinfestedbytheCrowIndians。Theserestlessmarauders,ashasalreadybeenobserved,areapttobecontinuallyontheprowlabouttheskirtsofthemountains;andevenwhenencampedinsomedeepandsecludedglen,theykeepscoutsuponthecliffsandpromontories,who,unseenthemselves,candiscerneverylivingthingthatmovesoverthesubjacentplainsandvalleys。Itwasnottobeexpectedthatourtravellerscouldpassunseenthrougharegionthusvigilantlysentineled;accordingly,intheedgeoftheevening,notlongaftertheyhadencampedatthefootoftheBighornSierra,acoupleofwild-lookingbeings,scantilycladinskins,butwellarmed,andmountedonhorsesaswild- lookingasthemselves,wereseenapproachingwithgreatcautionfromamongtherocks。TheymighthavebeenmistakenfortwooftheevilspiritsofthemountainssoformidableinIndianfable。 Rosewasimmediatelysentouttoholdaparleywiththem,andinvitethemtothecamp。Theyprovedtobetwoscoutsfromthesamebandthathadbeentrackedforsomedayspast,andwhichwasnowencampedatsomedistanceinthefoldsofthemountain。Theywereeasilyprevailedupontocometothecamp,wheretheywerewellreceived,and,afterremainingthereuntillateintheevening,departedtomakeareportofalltheyhadseenandexperiencedtotheircompanions。 Thefollowingdayhadscarcedawned,whenatroopofthesewildmountainscampererscamegallopingwithwhoopsandyellsintothecamp,bringinganinvitationfromtheirchiefforthewhitementovisithim。Thetentswereaccordinglystruck,thehorsesladen,andthepartyweresoononthemarch。TheCrowhorsemen,astheyescortedthem,appearedtotakeprideinshowingofftheirequestrianskillandhardihood;careeringatfullspeedontheirhalf-savagesteeds,anddashingamongrocksandcrags,andupanddownthemostruggedanddangerousplaceswithperfecteaseandunconcern。 Arideofsixteenmilesbroughtthem,intheafternoon,insightoftheCrowcamp。Itwascomposedofleatherntents,pitchedinameadowontheborderofasmallclearstreamatthefootofthemountain。Agreatnumberofhorsesweregrazinginthevicinity,manyofthemdoubtlesscapturedinmaraudingexcursions,TheCrowchieftaincameforthtomeethisguestswithgreatprofessionsoffriendship,andconductedthemtohistents,pointingout,bytheway,aconvenientplacewheretheymightfixtheircamp。Nosoonerhadtheydoneso,thanMr。Huntopenedsomeofthepackagesandmadethechiefapresentofascarletblanketandaquantityofpowderandball;hegavehimalsosomeknives,trinkets,andtobaccotobedistributedamonghiswarriors,withallwhichthegrimpotentateseemed,forthetime,wellpleased。 AstheCrows,however,werereputedtobeperfidiousintheextreme,andaserrantfreebootersasthebirdafterwhichtheyweresoworthilynamed;andastheirgeneralfeelingstowardsthewhiteswereknowntobebynomeansfriendly,theintercoursewiththemwasconductedwithgreatcircumspection。 ThefollowingdaywaspassedintradingwiththeCrowsforbuffalorobesandskins,andinbarteringgalledandjadedhorsesforothersthatwereingoodcondition。Someofthemen,also,purchasedhorsesontheirownaccount,sothatthenumbernowamountedtoonehundredandtwenty-one,mostofthemsoundandactive,andfitformountainservice。 Theirwantsbeingsupplied,theyceasedallfurthertraffic,muchtothedissatisfactionoftheCrows,whobecameextremelyurgenttocontinuethetrade,and,findingtheirimportunitiesofnoavail,assumedaninsolentandmenacingtone。AllthiswasattributedbyMr。HuntandhisassociatestotheperfidiousinstigationsofRosetheinterpreter,whomtheysuspectedofthedesiretofomentill-willbetweenthemandthesavages,forthepromotionofhisnefariousplans。M’Lellan,withhisusualtranchantmodeofdealingoutjustice,resolvedtoshootthedesperadoonthespotincaseofanyoutbreak。Nothingofthekind,however,occurred。TheCrowswereprobablydauntedbytheresolute,thoughquietdemeanorofthewhitemen,andtheconstantvigilanceandarmedpreparationswhichtheymaintained; andRose,ifhereallystillharboredhisknavishdesigns,musthaveperceivedthattheyweresuspected,and,ifattemptedtobecarriedintoeffect,mightbringruinonhisownhead。 Thenextmorning,brightandearly,Mr。Huntproposedtoresumehisjourneying。HetookaceremoniousleaveoftheCrowchieftain,andhisvagabondwarriors,andaccordingtopreviousarrangements,consignedtotheircherishingfriendshipandfraternaladoption,theirworthyconfederateRose;who,havingfiguredamongthewaterpiratesoftheMississippi,waswellfittedtorisetodistinctionamongthelandpiratesoftheRockyMountains。 Itispropertoadd,thattheruffianwaswellreceivedamongthetribe,andappearedtobeperfectlysatisfiedwiththecompromisehehadmade;feelingmuchmoreathiseaseamongsavagesthanamongwhitemen。Itisoutcastsfromjustice,andheartlessdesperadoesofthiskindwhosowtheseedsofenmityandbitternessamongtheunfortunatetribesofthefrontier。Thereisnoenemysoimplacableagainstacountryoracommunityasoneofitsownpeoplewhohasrenderedhimselfanalienbyhiscrimes。 Rightgladtobedeliveredfromthistreacherouscompanion,Mr。 Huntpursuedhiscoursealongtheskirtsofthemountain,inasoutherndirection,seekingforsomepracticabledefilebywhichhemightpassthroughit;nonesuchpresented,however,inthecourseoffifteenmiles,andheencampedonasmallstream,stillontheoutskirts。Thegreenmeadowswhichborderthesemountainstreamsaregenerallywellstockedwithgame,andthehunterskilledseveralfatelks,whichsuppliedthecampwithfreshmeat。 IntheeveningthetravellersweresurprisedbyanunwelcomevisitfromseveralCrowsbelongingtoadifferentbandfromthatwhichtheyrecentlyleft,andwhosaidtheircampwasamongthemountains。Theconsciousnessofbeingenvironedbysuchdangerousneighbors,andofbeingstillwithintherangeofRoseandhisfellowruffians,obligedthepartytobecontinuallyonthealert,andtomaintainwearyvigilsthroughoutthenight,lesttheyshouldberobbedoftheirhorses。 OnthethirdofSeptember,findingthatthemountainstillstretchedonwards,presentingacontinuedbarrier,theyendeavoredtoforceapassagetothewestward,butsoonbecameentangledamongrocksandprecipiceswhichsetalltheireffortsatdefiance。Themountainseemed,forthemostpart,rugged,bare,andsterile;yethereandthereitwasclothedwithpines,andwithshrubsandfloweringplants,someofwhichwereinbloom。Intollingamongthesewearyplaces,theirthirstbecameexcessive,fornowaterwastobemetwith。Numbersofthemenwanderedoffintorockydellsandravinesinhopesoffindingsomebrookorfountain;someofwhomlosttheirwayanddidnotrejointhemainparty。 Afteradayofpainfulandfruitlessscrambling,Mr。Huntgaveuptheattempttopenetrateinthisdirection,and,returningtothelittlestreamontheskirtsofthemountain,pitchedhistentswithinsixmilesofhisencampmentoftheprecedingnight。Henoworderedthatsignalsshouldbemadeforthestragglersinquestofwater;butthenightpassedawaywithouttheirreturn。 Thenextmorning,totheirsurprise,Rosemadehisappearanceatthecamp,accompaniedbysomeofhisCrowassociates。Hisunwelcomevisitrevivedtheirsuspicions;butheannouncedhimselfasamessengerofgood-willfromthechief,who,findingtheyhadtakenthewrongroad,hadsentRoseandhiscompanionstoguidethemtoanearerandbetteroneacrossthemountain。 Havingnochoice,beingthemselvesutterlyatfault,theysetoutunderthisquestionableescort。TheyhadnotgonefarbeforetheyfellinwiththewholepartyofCrows,who,theynowfound,weregoingthesameroadwiththemselves。Thetwocavalcadesofwhiteandredmen,therefore,pushedontogether,andpresentedawildandpicturesquespectacle,as,equippedwithvariousweaponsandinvariousgarbs,withtrainsofpack-horses,theywoundinlonglinesthroughtheruggeddefiles,andupanddownthecragsandsteepsofthemountain。 Thetravellershadagainanopportunitytoseeandadmiretheequestrianhabitudesandaddressofthishard-ridingtribe。Theywereallmounted,man,woman,andchild,fortheCrowshavehorsesinabundance,sothatnoonegoesonfoot。Thechildrenareperfectimpsonhorseback。Amongthemwasonesoyoungthathecouldnotyetspeak。Hewastiedonacoltoftwoyearsold,butmanagedthereinsasifbyinstinct,andpliedthewhipwithtrueIndianprodigality。Mr。Huntinquiredtheageofthisinfantjockey,andwasansweredthat“hehadseentwowinters。” Thisisalmostrealizingthefableofthecentaurs;norcanwewonderattheequestrianadroitnessofthesesavages,whoarethusinamannercradledinthesaddle,andbecomeininfancyalmostidentifiedwiththeanimaltheybestride。 Themountaindefileswereexceedinglyroughandbroken,andthetravellingpainfultotheburdenedhorses。Theparty,therefore,proceededbutslowly,andweregraduallyleftbehindbythebandofCrows,whohadtakenthelead。ItismorethanprobablethatMr。Huntloiteredinhiscourse,togetridofsuchdoubtfulfellow-travellers。Certainitisthathefeltasensationofreliefashesawthewholecrew,therenegadeRoseandall,disappearamongthewindingsofthemountain,andheardthelastyelpofthesavagesdieawayinthedistance。 Whentheywerefairlyoutofsight,andoutofhearing,heencampedontheheadwatersofthelittlestreamoftheprecedingday,havingcomeaboutsixteenmiles。Hereheremainedallthesucceedingday,aswelltogivetimefortheCrowstogetintheadvance,asforthestragglers,whohadwanderedawayinquestofwatertwodayspreviously,torejointhecamp。Indeed,considerableuneasinessbegantobefeltconcerningthesemen,lesttheyshouldbecomeutterlybewilderedinthedefilesofthemountains,orshouldfallintothehandsofsomemaraudingbandofsavages。Someofthemostexperiencedhuntersweresentinsearchofthem;others,inthemeantime,employedthemselvesinhunting。Thenarrowvalleyinwhichtheyencampedbeingwateredbyarunningstream,yieldedfreshpasturage,andthoughintheheartoftheBighornMountains,waswellstockedwithbuffalo。 Severalofthesewerekilled,asalsoagrizzlybear。Intheevening,tothesatisfactionofallparties,thestragglersmadetheirappearance,andprovisionsbeinginabundance,therewasheartygoodcheerinthecamp。 CHAPTERXXIX MountainGlens-WanderingBandofSavages-AnecdotesofShoshon- iesandFlatheads-RootDiggers-TheirSolitaryLurkingHabits- GnomesoftheMountains-WindRiver-ScarcityofFood-Alter- ationofRoute-ThePilotKnobsorTetons-BranchoftheColorado-HuntingCamp。 RESUMINGtheircourseonthefollowingmorning,Mr。Huntandhiscompanionscontinuedonwestwardthrougharuggedregionofhillsandrocks,butdiversifiedinmanyplacesbygrassylittleglens,withspringsofwater,brightsparklingbrooks,clumpsofpinetrees,andaprofusionoffloweringplants,whichwereinbloom,althoughtheweatherwasfrosty。Thesebeautifulandverdantrecesses,runningthroughandsofteningtheruggedmountains,werecheeringandrefreshingtothewayworntravellers。 Inthecourseofthemorning,astheywereentangledinadefile,theybeheldasmallbandofsavages,aswild-lookingasthesurroundingscenery,whoreconnoitredthemwarilyfromtherocksbeforetheyventuredtoadvance。Someofthemweremountedonhorsesrudelycaparisonedwithbridlesorhaltersofbuffalohide,oneendtrailingafterthemontheground。TheyprovedtobeamixedpartyofFlatheadsandShoshonies,orSnakes;andasthesetribeswillbefrequentlymentionedinthecourseofthiswork,weshallgiveafewintroductoryparticularsconcerningthem。 TheFlatheadsinquestionarenottobeconfoundedwiththoseofthenamewhodwellaboutthelowerwatersoftheColumbia; neitherdotheyflattentheirheads,astheothersdo。Theyinhabitthebanksofariveronthewestsideofthemountains,andaredescribedassimple,honest,andhospitable。Likeallpeopleofsimilarcharacter,whethercivilizedorsavage,theyarepronetobeimposedupon;andareespeciallymaltreatedbytheruthlessBlackfeet,whoharassthemintheirvillages,stealtheirhorsesbynight,oropenlycarrythemoffinthefaceofday,withoutprovokingpursuitorretaliation。 TheShoshoniesareabranchoftheoncepowerfulandprosperoustribeoftheSnakes,whopossessedaglorioushuntingcountryabouttheupperforksoftheMissouri,aboundinginbeaverandbuffalo。TheirhuntinggroundwasoccasionallyinvadedbytheBlackfeet,buttheSnakesbattledbravelyfortheirdomains,andalongandbloodyfeudexisted,withvariablesuccess。AtlengththeHudson’sBayCompany,extendingtheirtradeintotheinterior,haddealingswiththeBlackfeet,whowerenearesttothem,andsuppliedthemwithfire-arms。TheSnakes,whooccasionallytradedwiththeSpaniards,endeavored,butinvain,toobtainsimilarweapons;theSpanishtraderswiselyrefusedtoarmthemsoformidably。TheBlackfeethadnowavastadvantage,andsoondispossessedthepoorSnakesoftheirfavoritehuntinggrounds,theirlandofplenty,anddrovethemfromplacetoplace,untiltheywerefaintotakerefugeinthewildestandmostdesolaterecessesoftheRockyMountains。Evenheretheyaresubjecttooccasionalvisitsfromtheirimplacablefoes,aslongastheyhavehorses,oranyotherpropertytotempttheplunderer。ThusbydegreestheSnakeshavebecomeascattered,broken-spirited,impoverishedpeople;keepingaboutlonelyriversandmountainstreams,andsubsistingchieflyuponfish。Suchofthemasstillpossesshorses,andoccasionallyfigureashunters,arecalledShoshonies;butthereisanotherclass,themostabjectandforlorn,whoarecalledShuckers,ormorecommonlyDiggersandRootEaters。Theseareashy,secret,solitaryrace,whokeepinthemostretiredpartsofthemountains,lurkinglikegnomesincavernsandcleftsoftherocks,andsubsistinginagreatmeasureontherootsoftheearth。Sometimes,inpassingthroughasolitarymountainvalley,thetravellercomesperchanceuponthebleedingcarcassofadeerorbuffalothathasjustbeenslain。Helooksroundinvainforthehunter;thewholelandscapeislifelessanddeserted:atlengthheperceivesathreadofsmoke,curlingupfromamongthecragsandcliffs,andscramblingtotheplace,findssomeforlornandskulkingbroodofDiggers,terrifiedatbeingdiscovered。 TheShoshonies,however,who,ashasbeenobserved,havestill“horsetorideandweapontowear。”aresomewhatbolderintheirspirit,andmoreopenandwideintheirwanderings。Intheautumn,whensalmondisappearfromtherivers,andhungerbeginstopinch,theyevenventuredownintotheirancienthuntinggrounds,tomakeaforayamongthebuffaloes。InthisperilousenterprisetheyareoccasionallyjoinedbytheFlatheads,thepersecutionsoftheBlackfeethavingproducedacloseallianceandcooperationbetweentheselucklessandmaltreatedtribes。 Still,notwithstandingtheirunitedforce,everysteptheytakewithinthedebatablegroundistakeninfearandtrembling,andwiththeutmostprecaution:andanIndiantraderassuresusthathehasseenatleastfivehundredofthem,armedandequippedforaction,andkeepingwatchuponthehilltops,whileaboutfiftywerehuntingintheprairie。Theirexcursionsarebriefandhurried;assoonastheyhavecollectedandjerkedsufficientbuffalomeatforwinterprovisions,theypacktheirhorses,abandonthedangeroushuntinggrounds,andhastenbacktothemountains,happyiftheyhavenottheterribleBlackfeetrattlingafterthem。 SuchaconfederatebandofShoshoniesandFlatheadswastheonemetbyourtravellers。ItwasboundonavisittotheArrapahoes,atribeinhabitingthebanksoftheNebraska。Theywerearmedtothebestoftheirscantymeans,andsomeoftheShoshonieshadbucklersofbuffalohide,adornedwithfeathersandleathernfringes,andwhichhaveacharmedvirtueintheireyes,fromhavingbeenprepared,withmysticceremonies,bytheirconjurers。 Incompanywiththiswanderingbandourtravellersproceededallday。Intheeveningtheyencampedneartoeachotherinadefileofthemountains,onthebordersofastreamrunningnorth,andfallingintoBighornRiver。Inthevicinityofthecamp,theyfoundgooseberries,strawberries,andcurrantsingreatabundance。Thedefileboretracesofhavingbeenathoroughfareforcountlessherdsofbuffaloes,thoughnotonewastobeseen。 Thehunterssucceededinkillinganelkandseveralblack-taileddeer。 TheywerenowinthebosomofthesecondBighornridge,withanotherloftyandsnow-crownedmountainfullinviewtothewest。 Fifteenmilesofwesterncoursebroughtthem,onthefollowingday,downintoaninterveningplain,wellstockedwithbuffalo。 HeretheSnakesandFlatheadsjoinedwiththewhitehuntersinasuccessfulhunt,thatsoonfilledthecampwithprovisions。 Onthemorningofthe9thofSeptember,thetravellerspartedcompanywiththeirIndianfriends,andcontinuedontheircoursetothewest。Amarchofthirtymilesbroughtthem,intheevening,tothebanksofarapidandbeautifullyclearstreamaboutahundredyardswide。ItisthenorthforkorbranchoftheBighornRiver,butbearsitspeculiarnameoftheWindRiver,frombeingsubjectinthewinterseasontoacontinuedblastwhichsweepsitsbanksandpreventsthesnowfromlyingonthem。 Thisblastissaidtobecausedbyanarrowgaporfunnelinthemountains,throughwhichtheriverforcesitswaybetweenperpendicularprecipices,resemblingcutrocks。 Thisrivergivesitsnametoawholerangeofmountainsconsistingofthreeparallelchains,eightymilesinlength,andabouttwentyortwenty-fivebroad。Oneofitspeaksisprobablyfifteenthousandfeetabovethelevelofthesea,beingoneofthehighestoftheRockySierra。Thesemountainsgiverise,notmerelytotheWindorBighornRiver,buttoseveralbranchesoftheYellowstoneandtheMissouriontheeast,andoftheColumbiaandColoradoonthewest;thusdividingthesourcesofthesemightystreams。 Forfivesucceedingdays,Mr。HuntandhispartycontinuedupthecourseoftheWindRiver,tothedistanceofabouteightymiles,crossingandrecrossingit,accordingtoitswindings,andthenatureofitsbanks;sometimespassingthroughvalleys,atothertimesscramblingoverrocksandhills。Thecountryingeneralwasdestituteoftrees,buttheypassedthroughgrovesofwormwood,eightandtenfeetinheight,whichtheyusedoccasionallyforfuel,andtheymetwithlargequantitiesofwildflax。 Themountainsweredestituteofgame;theycameinsightoftwogrizzlybears,butcouldnotgetnearenoughforashot; provisions,therefore,begantobescanty。Theysawlargeflightsofthekindofthrushcommonlycalledtherobin,andmanysmallerbirdsofmigratoryspecies;butthehillsingeneralappearedlonelyandwithfewsignsofanimallife。Ontheeveningofthe14thSeptember,theyencampedontheforksoftheWindorBighornRiver。ThelargestoftheseforkscamefromtherangeofWindRiverMountains。 Thehunterswhoservedasguidestothepartyinthispartoftheirroute,hadassuredMr。Huntthat,byfollowingupWindRiver,andcrossingasinglemountainridge,hewouldcomeupontheheadwatersoftheColumbia。Thisscarcityofgame,however,whichalreadyhadbeenfelttoapinchingdegree,andwhichthreatenedthemwithfamineamongthesterileheightswhichlaybeforethem,admonishedthemtochangetheircourse。Itwasdetermined,therefore,tomakeforastream,whichtheywereinformedpassedtheneighboringmountains,tothesouthofwest,onthegrassybanksofwhichitwasprobabletheywouldmeetwithbuffalo。Accordingly,aboutthreeo’clockonthefollowingday,meetingwithabeatenIndianroadwhichledintheproperdirection,theystruckintoit,turningtheirbacksuponWindRiver。 Inthecourseoftheday,theycametoaheightthatcommandedanalmostboundlessprospect。Hereoneoftheguidespaused,and,afterconsideringthevastlandscapeattentively,pointedtothreemountainpeaksglisteningwithsnow,whichrose,hesaid,aboveaforkofColumbiaRiver。Theywerehailedbythetravellerswiththatjoywithwhichabeacononaseashoreishailedbymarinersafteralonganddangerousvoyage。 Itistruetherewasmanyawearyleaguetobetraversedbeforetheyshouldreachtheselandmarks,for,allowingfortheirevidentheightandtheextremetransparencyoftheatmosphere,theycouldnotbemuchlessthanahundredmilesdistant。Evenafterreachingthem,therewouldyetremainhundredsofmilesoftheirjourneytobeaccomplished。AllthesematterswereforgotteninthejoyatseeingthefirstlandmarksoftheColumbia,thatriverwhichformedthebourneoftheexpedition。 TheseremarkablepeakswereknownastheTetons;asguidingpointsformanydays,toMr。Hunt,hegavethemthenamesofthePilotKnobs。 Thetravellerscontinuedtheircoursetothesouthofwestforaboutfortymiles,througharegionsoelevatedthatpatchesofsnowlayonthehighestsummitsandonthenortherndeclivities。 Atlengththeycametothedesiredstream,theobjectoftheirsearch,thewatersofwhichflowedtothewest。Itwas,infact,abranchoftheColorado,whichfallsintotheGulfofCalifornia,andhadreceivedfromthehuntersthenameofSpanishRiver,frominformationgivenbytheIndiansthatSpaniardsresideduponitslowerwaters。 Theaspectofthisriveranditsvicinitywascheeringtothewaywornandhungrytravellers。Itsbanksweregreen,andthereweregrassyvalleysrunningfromitvariousdirections,intotheheartoftheruggedmountains,withherdsofbuffaloquietlygrazing。Thehunterssalliedforthwithkeenalacrity,andsoonreturnedladenwithprovisions。 InthispartofthemountainsMr。Huntmetwiththreedifferentkindsofgooseberries。Thecommonpurple,onalowandverythornybush;ayellowkind,ofanexcellentflavor,growingonastockfreefromthorns;andadeeppurple,ofthesizeandtasteofourwintergrape,withathornystalk。Therewerealsothreekindsofcurrants,oneverylargeandwelltasted,ofapurplecolor,andgrowingonabusheightorninefeethigh。Anotherofayellowcolor,andofthesizeandtasteofthelargeredcurrant,thebushfourorfivefeethigh;andthethirdabeautifulscarlet,resemblingthestrawberryinsweetness,thoughratherinsipid,andgrowingonalowbush。 Onthe17ththeycontinueddownthecourseoftheriver,makingfifteenmilestothesouthwest。Theriveraboundedwithgeeseandducks,andthereweresignsofitsbeinginhabitedbybeaverandotters:indeedtheywerenowapproachingregionswheretheseanimals,thegreatobjectsofthefurtrade,aresaidtoabound。 Theyencampedforthenightoppositetheendofamountaininthewest,whichwasprobablythelastchainoftheRockyMountains。 OnthefollowingmorningtheyabandonedthemaincourseoftheSpanishRiver,andtakinganorthwestdirectionforeightmiles,cameupononeofitslittletributaries,issuingoutofthebosomofthemountains,andrunningthroughgreenmeadows,yieldingpasturagetoherdsofbuffalo。Asthesewereprobablythelastofthatanimaltheywouldmeetwith,theyencampedonthegrassybanksoftheriver,determinedtospendseveraldaysinhunting,soastobeabletojerksufficientmeattosupplythemuntiltheyshouldreachthewatersoftheColumbia,wheretheytrustedtofindfishenoughfortheirsupport。Alittlerepose,too,wasnecessaryforbothmenandhorses,aftertheirruggedandincessantmarching;havinginthecourseofthelastseventeendaystraversedtwohundredandsixtymilesofrough,andinmanypartssterile,mountaincountry。 CHAPTERXXX。 APlentifulHuntingCamp-ShoshonieHunters-Hoback’sRiver- MadRiver-EncampmentNearthePilotKnobs-AConsultation- PreparationsforaPerilousVoyage。 FIVEdayswerepassedbyMr。Huntandhiscompanionsinthefreshmeadowswateredbythebrightlittlemountainstream。Thehuntersmadegreathavocamongthebuffaloes,andbroughtinquantitiesofmeat;thevoyageursbusiedthemselvesaboutthefires,roastingandstewingforpresentpurposes,ordryingprovisionsforthejourney;thepack-horses,easedoftheirburdens,rolledonthegrass,orgrazedatlargeabouttheamplepasture;thoseofthepartywhohadnocallupontheirservices,indulgedintheluxuryofperfectrelaxation,andthecamppresentedapictureofrudefeastingandrevelry,ofmingledbustleandrepose,characteristicofahaltinafinehuntingcountry。Inthecourseofoneoftheirexcursions,someofthemencameinsightofasmallpartyofIndians,whoinstantlyfledingreatapparentconsternation。Theyimmediatelyretreatedtocampwiththeintelligence:uponwhichMr。Huntandfourothersflungthemselvesupontheirhorses,andsalliedforthtoreconnoitre。 Afterridingforabouteightmiles,theycameuponawildmountainscene。Alonelygreenvalleystretchedbeforethem,surroundedbyruggedheights。Aherdofbuffalowerecareeringmadlythroughit,withatroopofsavagehorsemeninfullchase,plyingthemwiththeirbowsandarrows。TheappearanceofMr。 Huntandhiscompanionsputanabruptendtothehunt;thebuffaloscuttledoffinonedirection,whiletheIndianspliedtheirlashesandgallopedoffinanother,asfastastheirsteedscouldcarrythem。Mr。Huntgavechase;therewasasharpscamper,thoughofshortcontinuance。TwoyoungIndians,whowereindifferentlymounted,weresoonovertaken。Theywereterriblyfrightened,andevidentlygavethemselvesupforlost。Bydegreestheirfearswereallayedbykindtreatment;buttheycontinuedtoregardthestrangerswithamixtureofaweandwonder,foritwasthefirsttimeintheirlivestheyhadeverseenawhiteman。 TheybelongedtoapartyofSnakeswhohadcomeacrossthemountainsontheirautumnalhuntingexcursiontoprovidebuffalomeatforthewinter。BeingpersuadedofthepeacefulintentionsofMr。Huntandhiscompanions,theywillinglyconductedthemtotheircamp。Itwaspitchedinanarrowvalleyonthemarginofastream。Thetentswereofdressedskins,someofthemfantasticallypainted;withhorsesgrazingaboutthem。Theapproachofthepartycausedatransientalarminthecamp,forthesepoorIndianswereeveronthelook-outforcruelfoes。Nosooner,however,didtheyrecognizethegarbandcomplexionoftheirvisitors,thantheirapprehensionswerechangedintoJoy; forsomeofthemhaddealtwithwhitemen,andknewthemtobefriendly,andtoaboundwitharticlesofsingularvalue。Theywelcomedthem,therefore,totheirtents,setfoodbeforethem; andentertainedthemtothebestoftheirpower。 Theyhadbeensuccessfulintheirhunt,andtheircampwasfullofjerkedbuffalomeat,allofthechoicestkind,andextremelyfat。Mr。Huntpurchasedenoughofthem,inadditiontowhathadbeenkilledandcuredbyhisownhunters,toloadallthehorsesexceptingthosereservedforthepartnersandthewifeofPierreDorion。Hefound,also,afewbeaverskinsintheircamp,forwhichhepaidliberally,asaninducementtothemtohuntformore;informingthemthatsomeofhispartyintendedtoliveamongthemountains,andtradewiththenativehuntersfortheirpeltries。ThepoorSnakessooncomprehendedtheadvantagesthusheldouttothem,andpromisedtoexertthemselvestoprocureaquantityofbeaverskinsforfuturetraffic。Beingnowwellsuppliedwithprovisions,Mr。Huntbrokeuphisencampmentonthe24thofSeptember,andcontinuedontothewest。Amarchoffifteenmiles,overamountainridge,broughtthemtoastreamaboutfiftyfeetinwidth,whichHoback,oneoftheirguides,whohadtrappedabouttheneighborhoodwhenintheserviceofMr。 Henry,recognizedforoneoftheheadwatersoftheColumbia。Thetravellershaileditwithdelight,asthefirststreamtheyhadencounteredtendingtowardtheirpointofdestination。Theykeptalongitfortwodays,duringwhich,fromthecontributionofmanyrillsandbrooks,itgraduallyswelledintoasmallriver。 Asitmeanderedamongrocksandprecipices,theywerefrequentlyobligedtofordit,andsuchwasitsrapiditythatthemenwereoftenindangerofbeingsweptaway。Sometimesthebanksadvancedsocloseupontheriverthattheywereobligedtoscrambleupanddowntheirruggedpromontories,ortoskirtalongtheirbaseswheretherewasscarceafoothold。Theirhorseshaddangerousfallsinsomeofthesepasses。Oneofthemrolled,withhisload,nearlytwohundredfeetdownhillintotheriver,butwithoutreceivinganyinjury。Atlengththeyemergedfromthesestupendousdefiles,andcontinuedforseveralmilesalongthebankofHoback’sRiver,throughoneofthesternmountainvalleys。Hereitwasjoinedbyariverofgreatermagnitudeandswiftercurrent,andtheirunitedwaterssweptoffthroughthevalleyinoneimpetuousstream,which,fromitsrapidityandturbulence,hadreceivedthenameoftheMadRiver。Attheconfluenceofthesestreamsthetravellersencamped。Animportantpointintheirarduousjourneyhadbeenattained;afewmilesfromtheircamprosethethreevastsnowypeakscalledtheTetons,orthePilotKnobs,thegreatlandmarksoftheColumbia,bywhichtheyhadshapedtheircoursethroughthismountainwilderness。BytheirfeetflowedtherapidcurrentofMadRiver,astreamampleenoughtoadmitofthenavigationofcanoes,anddownwhichtheymightpossiblybeabletosteertheircoursetothemainbodyoftheColumbia。TheCanadianvoyageursrejoicedattheideaofoncemorelaunchingthemselvesupontheirfavoriteelement;ofexchangingtheirhorsesforcanoes,andofglidingdownthebosomsofrivers,insteadofscramblingoverthebacksofmountains。Othersoftheparty,also,inexperiencedinthiskindoftravelling,consideredtheirtoilsandtroublesasdrawingtoaclose。Theyhadconqueredthechiefdifficultiesofthisgreatrockybarrier,andnowflatteredthemselveswiththehopeofaneasydownwardcoursefortherestoftheirjourney。 Littledidtheydreamofthehardshipsandperilsbylandandwater,whichwereyettobeencounteredinthefrightfulwildernessthatintervenedbetweenthemandtheshoresofthePacific! CHAPTERXXXI。 AConsultationWhethertoProceedbyLandorWater-PreparationsforBoat-Building-AnExploringParty-APartyofTrappersDetached-TwoSnakeVisitors-TheirReportConcerningtheRiver-ConfirmedbytheExploringParty-MadRiverAbandoned-ArrivalatHenry’sFort-DetachmentofRobinson,Hoback,andReznertoTrap-Mr。MillerResolvestoAccompanyThem-TheirDeparture。 0NthebanksofMadRiverMr。Huntheldaconsultationwiththeotherpartnersastotheirfuturemovements。Thewildandimpetuouscurrentoftheriverrenderedhimdoubtfulwhetheritmightnotaboundwithimpedimentslowerdown,sufficienttorenderthenavigationofitslowandperilous,ifnotimpracticable。Thehunterswhohadactedasguidesknewnothingofthecharacteroftheriverbelow;whatrocks,andshoals,andrapidsmightobstructit,orthroughwhatmountainsanddesertsitmightpass。Shouldtheythenabandontheirhorses,castthemselveslooseinfragilebarksuponthiswild,doubtful,andunknownriver;orshouldtheycontinuetheirmoretoilsomeandtedious,butperhapsmorecertainwayfaringbyland? Thevote,asmighthavebeenexpected,wasalmostunanimousforembarkation;forwhenmenareindifficultieseverychangeseemstobeforthebetter。Thedifficultynowwastofindtimberofsufficientsizefortheconstructionofcanoes,thetreesinthesehighmountainregionsbeingchieflyascrubbedgrowthofpinesandcedars,aspens,haws,andservice-berries,andasmallkindofcotton-tree,withaleafresemblingthatofthewillow。 Therewasaspeciesoflargefir,butsofullofknotsastoendangertheaxeinhewingit。Aftersearchingforsometime,agrowthoftimber,ofsufficientsize,wasfoundlowerdowntheriver,whereupontheencampmentwasmovedtothevicinity。 Themenwerenowsettoworktofelltrees,andthemountainsechoedtotheunwontedsoundoftheiraxes。Whilepreparationswerethusgoingonforavoyagedowntheriver,Mr。Hunt,whostillentertaineddoubtsofitspracticability,despatchedanexploringparty,consistingofJohnReed,theclerk,JohnDay,thehunter,andPierreDorion,theinterpreter,withorderstoproceedseveraldays’marchalongthestream,andnoticeitscourseandcharacter。 Aftertheirdeparture,Mr。Huntturnedhisthoughtstoanotherobjectofimportance。HehadnowarrivedattheheadwatersoftheColumbia,whichwereamongthemainpointsembracedbytheenterpriseofMr。Astor。Theseupperstreamswerereputedtoaboundinbeaver,andhadasyetbeenunmolestedbythewhitetrapper。Thenumeroussignsofbeavermetwithduringtherecentsearchfortimbergaveevidencethattheneighborhoodwasagood“trappingground。”Here,then,itwaspropertobegintocastloosethoseleashesofhardytrappers,thataredetachedfromtradingparties,intheveryheartofthewilderness。ThemendetachedinthepresentinstancewereAlexanderCarson,LouisSt。 Michel,PierreDetaye,andPierreDelaunay。Trappersgenerallygoinpairs,thattheymayassist,protect,andcomforteachotherintheirlonelyandperilousoccupations。ThusCarsonandSt。 Michelformedonecouple,andDetayeandDelaunayanother。Theywerefittedoutwithtraps,arms,ammunition,horses,andeveryotherrequisite,andweretotrapupontheupperpartofMadRiver,andupontheneighboringstreamsofthemountains。Thiswouldprobablyoccupythemforsomemonths;and,whentheyshouldhavecollectedasufficientquantityofpeltries,theyweretopackthemupontheirhorsesandmakethebestoftheirwaytothemouthofColumbiaRiver,ortoanyintermediatepostwhichmightbeestablishedbythecompany。Theytookleaveoftheircomradesandstartedoffontheirseveralcourseswithstoutheartsandcheerfulcountenances;thoughtheselonelycruisingsintoawildandhostilewildernessseemtotheuninitiatedequivalenttobeingcastadriftintheship’syawlinthemidstoftheocean。 Oftheperilsthatattendthelonelytrapper,thereaderwillhavesufficientproof,whenhecomes,intheafterpartofthiswork,tolearnthehardfortunesofthesepoorfellowsinthecourseoftheirwildperegrinations。 Thetrappershadnotlongdeparted,whentwoSnakeIndianswanderedintothecamp。Whentheyperceivedthatthestrangerswerefabricatingcanoes,theyshooktheirheadsandgavethemtounderstandthattheriverwasnotnavigable。Theirinformation,however,wasscoffedatbysomeoftheparty,whowereobstinatelybentonembarkation,butwasconfirmedbytheexploringparty,whoreturnedafterseveraldays’absence。Theyhadkeptalongtheriverwithgreatdifficultyfortwodays,andfounditanarrow,crooked,turbulentstream,confinedinarockychannel,withmanyrapids,andoccasionallyoverhungwithprecipices。Fromthesummitofoneofthesetheyhadcaughtabird’s-eyeviewofitsboisterouscareerforagreatdistancethroughtheheartofthemountain,withimpendingrocksandcliffs。Satisfiedfromthisviewthatitwasuselesstofollowitscourse,eitherbylandorwater,theyhadgivenupallfurtherinvestigation。 TheseconcurringreportsdeterminedMr。HunttoabandonMadRiver,andseeksomemorenavigablestream。ThisdeterminationwasconcurredinbyallhisassociatesexceptingMr。Miller,whohadbecomeimpatientofthefatigueoflandtravel,andwasforimmediateembarkationatallhazards。Thisgentlemanhadbeeninagloomyandirritatedstateofmindforsometimepast,beingtroubledwithabodilymaladythatrenderedtravellingonhorsebackextremelyirksometohim,andbeing,moreover,discontentedwithhavingasmallershareintheexpeditionthanhiscomrades。Hisunreasonableobjectionstoafurthermarchbylandwereoverruled,andthepartypreparedtodecamp。 Robinson,Hoback,andRezner,thethreehunterswhohadhithertoservedasguidesamongthemountains,nowsteppedforward,andadvisedMr。HunttomakeforthepostestablishedduringtheprecedingyearbyMr。Henry,oftheMissouriFurCompany。TheyhadbeenwithMr。Henry,and,asfarastheycouldjudgebytheneighboringlandmarks,hispostcouldnotbeveryfaroff。Theypresumedtherecouldbebutoneinterveningridgeofmountains,whichmightbepassedwithoutanygreatdifficulty。Henry’spost,orfort,wasonanupperbranchoftheColumbia,downwhichtheymadenodoubtitwouldbeeasytonavigateincanoes。 ThetwoSnakeIndiansbeingquestionedinthematter,showedaperfectknowledgeofthesituationofthepost,andoffered,withgreatalacrity,toguidethemtotheplace。Theirofferwasaccepted,greatlytothedispleasureofMr。Miller,whoseemedobstinatelybentuponbravingtheperilsofMadRiver。 Theweatherforafewdayspasthadbeenstormy,withrainandsleet。TheRockyMountainsaresubjecttotempestuouswindsfromthewest;thesesometimescomeinflawsorcurrents,makingapaththroughtheforestsmanyyardsinwidth,andwhirlingofftrunksandbranchestoagreatdistance。ThepresentstormsubsidedonthethirdofOctober,leavingallthesurroundingheightscoveredwithsnow;forwhilerainhadfalleninthevalley,ithadsnowedonthehilltops。 Onthe4th,theybrokeuptheirencampment,andcrossedtheriver,thewatercominguptothegirthsoftheirhorses。Aftertravellingfourmiles,theyencampedatthefootofthemountain,thelast,astheyhoped,whichtheyshouldhavetotraverse。Fourdaysmoretookthemacrossit,andoverseveralplains,wateredbybeautifullittlestreams,tributariesofMadRiver。Nearoneoftheirencampmentstherewasahotspringcontinuallyemittingacloudofvapor。Theseelevatedplains,whichgiveapeculiarcharactertothemountains,arefrequentedbylargegangsofantelopes,fleetasthewind。 Ontheeveningofthe8thofOctober,afteracoldwintryday,withgustsofwesterlywindandflurriesofsnow,theyarrivedatthesought-forpostofMr。Henry。Herehehadfixedhimself,afterbeingcompelledbythehostilitiesoftheBlackfeet,toabandontheupperwatersoftheMissouri。Thepost,however,wasdeserted,forMr。Henryhadleftitinthecourseoftheprecedingspring,and,asitafterwardsappeared,hadfalleninwithMr。Lisa,attheArickaravillageontheMissouri,sometimeaftertheseparationofMr。Huntandhisparty。 Thewearytravellersgladlytookpossessionofthedesertedloghutswhichhadformedthepost,andwhichstoodonthebankofastreamupwardsofahundredyardswide,onwhichtheyintendedtoembark。Therebeingplentyofsuitabletimberintheneighborhood,Mr。Huntimmediatelyproceededtoconstructcanoes。 Ashewouldhavetoleavehishorsesandtheiraccoutrementshere,hedeterminedtomakethisatradingpost,wherethetrappersandhunters,tobedistributedaboutthecountry,mightrepair;andwherethetradersmighttouchontheirwaythroughthemountainstoandfromtheestablishmentatthemouthoftheColumbia。HeinformedthetwoSnakeIndiansofthisdetermination,andengagedthemtoremaininthatneighborhoodandtakecareofthehorsesuntilthewhitemenshouldreturn,promisingthemamplerewardsfortheirfidelity。Itmayseemadesperatechancetotrusttothefaithandhonestyoftwosuchvagabonds;but,asthehorseswouldhave,atallevents,tobeabandoned,andwouldotherwisebecomethepropertyofthefirstvagranthordethatshouldencounterthem,itwasonechanceinfavoroftheirbeingregained。 Atthisplaceanotherdetachmentofhunterspreparedtoseparatefromthepartyforthepurposeoftrappingbeaver。Threeofthesehadalreadybeeninthisneighborhood,beingtheveteranRobinsonandhiscompanions,HobackandRezner,whohadaccompaniedMr。Henryacrossthemountains,andwhohadbeenpickedupbyMr。 HuntontheMissouri,ontheirwayhometoKentucky。Accordingtoagreementtheywerefittedoutwithhorses,traps,ammunition,andeverythingrequisitefortheirundertaking,andweretobringinallthepeltriestheyshouldcollect,eithertothistradingpost,ortotheestablishmentatthemouthofColumbiaRiver。 Anotherhunter,ofthenameofCass,wasassociatedwiththemintheirenterprise。Itisinthiswaythatsmallknotsoftrappersandhuntersaredistributedaboutthewildernessbythefurcompanies,andlikecranesandbitterns,hauntitssolitarystreams。Robinson,theKentuckian,theveteranofthe“bloodyground。”who,ashasalreadybeennoted,hadbeenscalpedbytheIndiansinhisyoungerdays,wastheleaderofthislittleband。 Whentheywereabouttodepart,Mr。Millercalledthepartnerstogetherandthrewuphisshareinthecompany,declaringhisintentionofjoiningthepartyoftrappers。 Thisresolutionstruckeveryonewithastonishment,Mr。Millerbeingamanofeducationandofcultivatedhabits,andlittlefittedfortherudelifeofahunter。Besides,theprecariousandslenderprofitsarisingfromsuchalifewerebeneaththeprospectsofonewhoheldashareinthegeneralenterprise。Mr。 Huntwasespeciallyconcernedandmortifiedathisdetermination,asitwasthroughhisadviceandinfluencehehadenteredintotheconcern。Heendeavored,therefore,todissuadehimfromthissuddenresolution;representingitsrashness,andthehardshipsandperilstowhichitwouldexposehim。Heearnestlyadvisedhim,howeverhemightfeeldissatisfiedwiththeenterprise,stilltocontinueonincompanyuntiltheyshouldreachthemouthofColumbiaRiver。Theretheywouldmeettheexpeditionthatwastocomebysea;when,shouldhestillfeeldisposedtorelinquishtheundertaking,Mr。Huntpledgedhimselftofurnishhimapassagehomeinoneofthevesselsbelongingtothecompany。 ToallthisMillerrepliedabruptly,thatitwasuselesstoarguewithhim,ashismindwasmadeup。Theymightfurnishhim,ornot,astheypleased,withthenecessarysupplies,buthewasdeterminedtopartcompanyhere,andsetoffwiththetrappers。 Sosaying,heflungoutoftheirpresencewithoutvouchsafinganyfurtherconversation。 Muchasthiswaywardconductgavethemanxiety,thepartnerssawitwasinvaintoremonstrate。Everyattentionwaspaidtofithimoutforhisheadstrongundertaking。Hewasprovidedwithfourhorses,andallthearticlesherequired。ThetwoSnakesundertooktoconducthimandhiscompanionstoanencampmentoftheirtribe,lowerdownamongthemountains,fromwhomtheywouldreceiveinformationastothetrappinggrounds。Afterthusguidingthem,theSnakesweretoreturntoFortHenry,asthenewtradingpostwascalled,andtakechargeofthehorseswhichthepartywouldleavethere,ofwhich,afterallthehuntersweresupplied,thereremainedseventy-seven。Thesemattersbeingallarranged,Mr。Millersetoutwithhiscompanions,underguidanceofthetwoSnakes,onthe10thofOctober;andmuchdiditgrievethefriendsofthatgentlemantoseehimthuswantonlycastinghimselflooseuponsavagelife。Howheandhiscomradesfaredinthewilderness,andhowtheSnakesacquittedthemselvesoftheirtrustrespectingthehorses,willhereafterappearinthecourseoftheseramblinganecdotes。 CHAPTERXXXII。 ScantyFare-AMendicantSnake-EmbarkationonHenryRiver-JoyoftheVoyageurs-ArrivalatSnakeRiver-RapidsandBreakers- BeginningofMisfortunes-SnakeEncampments-ParleyWithaSavage-ASecondDisaster-LossofaBoatman-TheCaldronLinn。 WHILEthecanoeswereinpreparation,thehuntersrangedabouttheneighborhood,butwithlittlesuccess。Tracksofbuffaloesweretobeseeninalldirections,butnoneofafreshdate。 Thereweresomeelk,butextremelywild;twoonlywerekilled。 Antelopeswerelikewiseseen,buttooshyandfleettobeapproached。Afewbeaversweretakeneverynight,andsalmontroutofasmallsize,sothatthecamphadprincipallytosubsistupondriedbuffalomeat。 Onthe14th,apoor,half-nakedSnakeIndian,oneofthatforlorncastecalledtheShuckers,orDiggers,madehisappearanceatthecamp。Hecamefromsomelurking-placeamongtherocksandcliffs,andpresentedapictureofthatfamishingwretchednesstowhichtheselonelyfugitivesamongthemountainsaresometimesreduced。 Havingreceivedwherewithaltoallayhishunger,hedisappeared,butinthecourseofadayortworeturnedtothecamp,bringingwithhimhisson,amiserableboy,stillmorenakedandforlornthanhimself。Foodwasgiventoboth;theyskulkedaboutthecamplikehungryhounds,seekingwhattheymightdevour,andhavinggatheredupthefeetandentrailsofsomebeaversthatwerelyingabout,slunkoffwiththemtotheirdenamongtherocks。 Bythe18thofOctober,fifteencanoeswerecompleted,andonthefollowingdaythepartyembarkedwiththeireffects;leavingtheirhorsesgrazingaboutthebanks,andtrustingtothehonestyofthetwoSnakes,andsomespecialturnofgoodluckfortheirfuturerecovery。 Thecurrentborethemalongatarapidrate;thelightspiritsoftheCanadianvoyageurs,whichhadoccasionallyflaggeduponland,rosetotheiraccustomedbuoyancyonfindingthemselvesagainuponthewater。Theywieldedtheirpaddleswiththeirwonteddexterity,andforthefirsttimemadethemountainsechowiththeirfavoriteboatsongs。 InthecourseofthedaythelittlesquadronarrivedattheconfluenceofHenryandMadRivers,which,thusunited,swelledintoabeautifulstreamofalightpea-greencolor,navigableforboatsofanysize,andwhich,fromtheplaceofjunction,tookthenameofSnakeRiver,astreamdoomedtobethesceneofmuchdisastertothetravellers。Thebankswerehereandtherefringedwithwillowthicketsandsmallcotton-woodtrees。Theweatherwascold,anditsnowedallday,andgreatflocksofducksandgeese,sportinginthewaterorstreamingthroughtheair,gavetokenthatwinterwasathand;yettheheartsofthetravellerswerelight,and,astheyglideddownthelittleriver,theyflatteredthemselveswiththehopeofsoonreachingtheColumbia。Aftermakingthirtymilesinasoutherlydirection,theyencampedforthenightinaneighborhoodwhichrequiredsomelittlevigilance,astherewererecenttracesofgrizzlybearsamongthethickets。 Onthefollowingdaytheriverincreasedinwidthandbeauty; flowingparalleltoarangeofmountainsontheleft,whichattimeswerefinelyreflectedinitslightgreenwaters。ThethreesnowysummitsofthePilotKnobsorTetonswerestillseentoweringinthedistance。Afterpursuingaswiftbutplacidcoursefortwentymiles,thecurrentbegantofoamandbrawl,andassumethewildandbrokencharactercommontothestreamswestoftheRockyMountains。InfacttheriverswhichflowfromthosemountainstothePacificareessentiallydifferentfromthosewhichtraversetheprairiesontheireasterndeclivities。Thelatter,thoughsometimesboisterous,aregenerallyfreefromobstructions,andeasilynavigated;buttheriverstothewestofthemountainsdescendmoresteeplyandimpetuously,andarecontinuallyliabletocascadesandrapids。Thelatteraboundedinthepartoftheriverwhichthetravellerswerenowdescending。 Twoofthecanoesfilledamongthebreakers;thecrewsweresaved,butmuchoftheladingwaslostordamaged,andoneofthecanoesdrifteddownthestreamandwasbrokenamongtherocks。 Onthefollowingday,October21st,theymadebutashortdistancewhentheycametoadangerousstrait,wheretheriverwascompressedfornearlyhalfamilebetweenperpendicularrocks,reducingittothewidthoftwentyyards,andincreasingitsviolence。Heretheywereobligedtopassthecanoesdowncautiouslybyalinefromtheimpendingbanks。Thisconsumedagreatpartofaday;andaftertheyhadreembarkedtheyweresoonagainimpededbyrapids,whentheyhadtounloadtheircanoesandcarrythemandtheircargoesforsomedistancebyland。Itisattheseplaces,called“portages。”thattheCanadianvoyageurexhibitshismostvaluablequalities;carryingheavyburdens,andtoilingtoandfro,onlandandinthewater,overrocksandprecipices,amongbrakesandbrambles,notonlywithoutamurmur,butwiththegreatestcheerfulnessandalacrity,jokingandlaughingandsingingscrapsofoldFrenchditties。 Thespiritsoftheparty,however,whichhadbeenelatedonfirstvaryingtheirjourneyingfromlandtowater,hadnowlostsomeoftheirbuoyancy。Everythingaheadwaswrappedinuncertainty。Theyknewnothingoftheriveronwhichtheywerefloating。Ithadneverbeennavigatedbyawhiteman,norcouldtheymeetwithanIndiantogivethemanyinformationconcerningit。Itkeptonitscoursethroughavastwildernessofsilentandapparentlyuninhabitedmountains,withoutasavagewigwamuponitsbanks,orbarkuponitswaters。Thedifficultiesandperilstheyhadalreadypassedmadethemapprehendothersbeforethem,thatmighteffectuallybartheirprogress。Astheyglidedonward,however,theyregainedheartandhope。Thecurrentcontinuedtobestrong; butitwassteady,andthoughtheymetwithfrequentrapids,noneofthemwerebad。Mountainswereconstantlytobeseenindifferentdirections,butsometimestheswiftriverglidedthroughprairies,andwasborderedbysmallcotton-woodtreesandwillows。Theseprairiesatcertainseasonsarerangedbymigratoryherdsofthewide-wanderingbuffalo,thetracksofwhich,thoughnotofrecentdate,werefrequentlytobeseen。 Here,too,weretobefoundthepricklypearorIndianfig,aplantwhichlovesamoresouthernclimate。OnthelandwerelargeflightsofmagpiesandAmericanrobins;wholefleetsofducksandgeesenavigatedtheriver,orflewoffinlongstreamingfilesattheapproachofthecanoes;whilethefrequentestablishmentsofthepainstakingandquiet-lovingbeavershowedthatthesolitudeofthesewaterswasrarelydisturbed,evenbytheall-pervadingsavage。 TheyhadnowcomeneartwohundredandeightymilessinceleavingFortHenry,yetwithoutseeingahumanbeing,orahumanhabitation;awildanddesertsolitudeextendedoneithersideoftheriver,apparentlyalmostdestituteofanimallife。Atlength,onthe24thofOctober,theyweregladdenedbythesightofsomesavagetents,andhastenedtolandandvisitthem,fortheywereanxioustoprocureinformationtoguidethemontheirroute。Ontheirapproach,however,thesavagesfledinconsternation。TheyprovedtobeawanderingbandofShoshonies。Intheirtentsweregreatquantitiesofsmallfishabouttwoincheslong,togetherwithrootsandseeds,orgrain,whichtheyweredryingforwinterprovisions。Theyappearedtobedestituteoftoolsofanykind,yettherewerebowsandarrowsverywellmade;theformerwereformedofpine,cedar,orbone,strengthenedbysinews,andthelatterofthewoodofrosebushes,andothercrookedplants,butcarefullystraightened,andtippedwithstoneofabottle-greencolor。 Therewerealsovesselsofwillowandgrass,socloselywroughtastoholdwater,andaseineneatlymadewithmeshes,intheordinarymanner,ofthefibresofwildflaxornettle。Thehumbleeffectsofthepoorsavagesremainedunmolestedbytheirvisitors,andafewsmallarticles,withaknifeortwo,wereleftinthecamp,andwerenodoubtregardedasinvaluableprizes。 Shortlyafterleavingthisdesertedcamp,andreembarkinginthecanoes,thetravellersmetwiththreeoftheSnakesonatriangularraftmadeofflagsorreeds;suchwastheirrudemodeofnavigatingtheriver。Theywereentirelynakedexceptingsmallmantlesofhareskinsovertheirshoulders。Thecanoesapproachednearenoughtogainafullviewofthem,buttheywerenottobebroughttoaparley。 Allfurtherprogressforthedaywasbarredbyafallintheriverofaboutthirtyfeetperpendicular;attheheadofwhichthepartyencampedforthenight。 Thenextdaywasoneofexcessivetoilandbutlittleprogress: theriverwindingthroughawildrockycountry,andbeinginterruptedbyfrequentrapids,amongwhichthecanoeswereingreatperil。OnthesucceedingdaytheyagainvisitedacampofwanderingSnakes,buttheinhabitantsfledwithterroratthesightofafleetofcanoes,filledwithwhitemen,comingdowntheirsolitaryriver。 AsMr。Huntwasextremelyanxioustogaininformationconcerninghisroute,heendeavoredbyallkindsoffriendlysignstoenticebackthefugitives。Atlengthone,whowasonhorseback,venturedbackwithfearandtrembling。Hewasbetterclad,andinbettercondition,thanmostofhisvagranttribethatMr。Hunthadyetseen。Thechiefobjectofhisreturnappearedtobetointercedeforaquantityofdriedmeatandsalmontrout,whichhehadleftbehind;onwhich,probably,hedependedforhiswinter’ssubsistence。Thepoorwretchapproachedwithhesitation,thealternatedreadoffamineandofwhitemenoperatinguponhismind。Hemadethemostabjectsigns,imploringMr。Huntnottocarryoffhisfood。Thelattertriedineverywaytoreassurehim,andofferedhimknivesinexchangeforhisprovisions;greataswasthetemptation,thepoorSnakecouldonlyprevailuponhimselftospareapart;keepingafeverishwatchovertherest,lestitshouldbetakenaway。ItwasinvainMr。Huntmadeinquiriesofhimconcerninghisroute,andthecourseoftheriver。TheIndianwastoomuchfrightenedandbewilderedtocomprehendhimortoreply;hedidnothingbutalternatelycommendhimselftotheprotectionoftheGoodSpirit,andsupplicateMr。Huntnottotakeawayhisfishandbuffalomeat; andinthisstatetheylefthim,tremblingabouthistreasures。 Inthecourseofthatandthenextdaytheymadenearlyeightmiles;theriverinclinedtothesouthofwest,andbeingclearandbeautiful,nearlyhalfamileinwidth,withmanypopulouscommunitiesofthebeaveralongitsbanks。The28thofOctober,however,wasadayofdisaster。Theriveragainbecameroughandimpetuous,andwaschafedandbrokenbynumerousrapids。Thesegrewmoreandmoredangerous,andtheutmostskillwasrequiredtosteeramongthem。Mr。Crookswasseatedinthesecondcanoeofthesquadron,andhadanoldexperiencedCanadianforsteersman,namedAntoineClappine,oneofthemostvaluableofthevoyageurs。Theleadingcanoehadglidedsafelyamongtheturbulentandroaringsurges,butinfollowingit,Mr。Crooksperceivedthathiscanoewasbearingtowardsarock。Hecalledouttothesteersman,buthiswarningvoicewaseitherunheardorunheeded。Inthenextmomenttheystruckupontherock。Thecanoewassplitandoverturned。Therewerefivepersonsonboard。Mr。 Crooksandoneofhiscompanionswerethrownamidstroaringbreakersandawhirlingcurrent,butsucceeded,bystrongswimming,toreachtheshore。Clappineandtwoothersclungtotheshatteredbark,anddriftedwithittoarock。Thewreckstrucktherockwithoneend,andswinginground,flungpoorClappineoffintotheragingstream,whichswepthimaway,andheperished。Hiscomradessucceededingettingupontherock,fromwhencetheywereafterwardstakenoff。 Thisdisastrouseventbroughtthewholesquadrontoahalt,andstruckachillintoeverybosom。Indeedtheyhadarrivedataterrificstrait,thatforbadeallfurtherprogressinthecanoes,anddismayedthemostexperiencedvoyageur。Thewholebodyoftheriverwascompressedintoaspaceoflessthanthirtyfeetinwidth,betweentwoledgesofrocks,upwardsoftwohundredfeethigh,andformedawhirlingandtumultuousvortex,sofrightfullyagitatedastoreceivethenameof“TheCaldronLinn。”Beyondthisfearfulabyss,theriverkeptragingandroaringon,untillosttosightamongimpendingprecipices。