第9章

类别:其他 作者:Washington Irving字数:30726更新时间:18/12/21 16:57:53
TheplacewheretheystrucktheColumbiawassomedistancebelowthejunctionofitstwogreatbranches,LewisandClarkerivers,andnotfarfromtheinfluxoftheWallah-Wallah。Itwasabeautifulstream,three-quartersofamilewide,totallyfreefromtrees;borderedinsomeplaceswithsteeprocks,inotherswithpebbledshores。 OnthebanksoftheColumbiatheyfoundamiserablehordeofIndians,calledAkai-chies,withnoclothingbutascantymantleoftheskinsofanimals,andsometimesapairofsleevesofwolf’sskin。Theirlodgeswereshapedlikeatent,andverylightandwarm,beingcoveredwithmatsandrushes;besideswhichtheyhadexcavationsintheground,linedwithmats,andoccupiedbythewomen,whowereevenmoreslightlycladthanthemen。Thesepeoplesubsistedchieflybyfishing;havingcanoesofarudeconstruction,beingmerelythetrunksofpinetreessplitandhollowedoutbyfire。Theirlodgeswerewellstoredwithdriedsalmon,andtheyhadgreatquantitiesoffreshsalmontroutofanexcellentflavor,takenatthemouthoftheUmatilla;ofwhichthetravellersobtainedamostacceptablesupply。 Findingthattheroadwasonthenorthsideoftheriver,Mr。 Huntcrossed,andcontinuedfiveorsixdaystravellingratherslowlydownalongitsbanks,beingmuchdelayedbythestrayingofthehorses,andtheattemptsmadebytheIndianstostealthem。Theyfrequentlypassedlodges,wheretheyobtainedfishanddogs。Atoneplacethenativeshadjustreturnedfromhunting,andhadbroughtbackalargequantityofelkanddeermeat,butaskedsohighapriceforitastobebeyondthefundsofthetravellers,sotheyhadtocontentthemselveswithdog’sflesh。 Theyhadbythistime,however,cometoconsideritverychoicefood,superiortohorseflesh,andtheminutesoftheexpeditionspeakratherexultinglynowandthen,oftheirhavingmadeafamous“repast。”wherethisviandhappenedtobeunusuallyplenty。 Theyagainlearnttidingsofsomeofthescatteredmembersoftheexpedition,supposedtobeM’Kenzie,M’Lellan,andtheirmen,whohadprecededthemdowntheriver,andhadoverturnedoneoftheircanoes,bywhichtheylostmanyarticles。Allthesefloatingpiecesofintelligenceoftheirfellowadventurers,whohadseparatedfromthemintheheartofthewilderness,theyreceivedwitheagerinterest。 Theweathercontinuedtobetemperate,markingthesuperiorsoftnessoftheclimateonthissideofthemountains。Foragreatpartofthetime,thedaysweredelightfullymildandclear,liketheserenedaysofOctoberontheAtlanticborders。 Thecountryingeneral,intheneighborhoodoftheriver,wasacontinualplain,lownearthewater,butrisinggradually; destituteoftrees,andalmostwithoutshrubsorplantsofanykind,exceptingafewwillowbushes。Aftertravellingaboutsixtymiles,theycametowherethecountrybecameveryhillyandtherivermadeitswaybetweenrockybanksanddownnumerousrapids。 TheIndiansinthisvicinitywerebettercladandaltogetherinmoreprosperousconditionthanthoseabove,and,asMr。Huntthought,showedtheirconsciousnessofeasebysomethinglikesaucinessofmanner。Thusprosperityisapttoproducearroganceinsavageaswellasincivilizedlife。Inbothconditions,manisananimalthatwillnotbearpampering。 FromthesepeopleMr。HuntforthefirsttimereceivedvaguebutdeeplyinterestingintelligenceofthatpartoftheenterprisewhichhadproceededbyseatothemouthoftheColumbia。TheIndiansspokeofanumberofwhitemenwhohadbuiltalargehouseatthemouthofthegreatriver,andsurroundeditwithpalisades。NoneofthemhadbeendowntoAstoriathemselves;butrumorsspreadwidelyandrapidlyfrommouthtomouthamongtheIndiantribes,andarecarriedtotheheartoftheinteriorbyhuntingpartiesandmigratoryhordes。 Theestablishmentofatradingemporiumatsuchapoint,also,wascalculatedtocauseasensationtothemostremotepartsofthevastwildernessbeyondthemountains。Itinamannerstruckthepulseofthegreatvitalriver,andvibratedupallitstributarystreams。 Itissurprisingtonoticehowwellthisremotetribeofsavageshadlearnt,throughintermediategossips,theprivatefeelingsofthecolonistsatAstoria;itshowsthatIndiansarenottheincuriousandindifferentobserversthattheyhavebeenrepresented。TheytoldMr。Huntthatthewhitepeopleatthelargehousehadbeenlookinganxiouslyformanyoftheirfriends,whomtheyhadexpectedtodescendthegreatriver;andhadbeeninmuchaffliction,fearingthattheywerelost。Now,however,thearrivalofhimandhispartywouldwipeawayalltheirtears,andtheywoulddanceandsingforjoy。 Onthe31stofJanuary,Mr。HuntarrivedatthefallsoftheColumbia,andencampedatthevillageoftheWish-ram,situatedattheheadofthatdangerouspassoftherivercalled“theLongNarrows。 CHAPTERXXXVIII。 TheVillageofWish-ram-RogueryoftheInhabitants-TheirHabitations-TidingsofAstoria-OftheTonquinMassacre- ThievesAbouttheCamp-ABandofBraggarts-Embarkation- ArrivalatAstoria-AJoyfulReception-OldComrades-AdventuresofReed,M’Lellan,andM’KenzieAmongtheSnakeRiverMountains- RejoicingatAstoria。 0FthevillageofWish-ram,theaborigines’fishingmartoftheColumbia,wehavegivensomeaccountinanearlychapterofthiswork。Theinhabitantsheldatrafficintheproductionsofthefisheriesofthefalls,andtheirvillagewasthetradingresortofthetribesfromthecoastandfromthemountains。Mr。HuntfoundtheinhabitantsshrewderandmoreintelligentthananyIndianshehadmetwith。Tradehadsharpenedtheirwits,thoughithadnotimprovedtheirhonesty;fortheywereacommunityofarrantroguesandfreebooters。Theirhabitationscomportedwiththeircircumstances,andweresuperiortoanythetravellershadyetseenwestoftheRockyMountains。Ingeneral,thedwellingsofthesavagesonthePacificsideofthatgreatbarrierweremeretentsandcabinsofmats,orskins,orstraw,thecountrybeingdestituteoftimber。InWish-ram,onthecontrary,thehouseswerebuiltofwood,withlongslopingroofs。Thefloorwassunkaboutsixfeetbelowthesurfaceoftheground,withalowdooratthegableend,extremelynarrow,andpartlysunk。Throughthisitwasnecessarytocrawlandthentodescendashortladder。Thisinconveniententrancewasprobablyforthepurposeofdefense;therewereloop-holesalsoundertheeaves,apparentlyforthedischargeofarrows。Thehouseswerelarge,generallycontainingtwoorthreefamilies。Immediatelywithinthedoorweresleepingplaces,rangedalongthewalls,likeberthsinaship;andfurnishedwithpalletsofmatting。Theseextendedalongonehalfofthebuilding;theremaininghalfwasappropriatedtothestoringofdriedfish。 ThetradingoperationsoftheinhabitantsofWish-ramhadgiventhemawiderscopeofinformation,andrenderedtheirvillageakindofheadquartersofintelligence。Mr。Huntwasable,therefore,tocollectmoredistincttidingsconcerningthesettlementofAstoriaanditsaffairs。OneoftheinhabitantshadbeenatthetradingpostestablishedbyDavidStuartontheOakinagan,andhadpickedupafewwordsofEnglishthere。Fromhim,Mr。Huntgleanedvariousparticularsaboutthatestablishment,aswellasaboutthegeneralconcernsoftheenterprise。OthersrepeatedthenameofMr。M’Kay,thepartnerwhoperishedinthemassacreonboardoftheTonquin,andgavesomeaccountofthatmelancholyaffair。TheysaidMr。M’Kaywasachiefamongthewhitemen,andhadbuiltagreathouseatthemouthoftheriver,buthadleftitandsailedawayinalargeshiptothenorthwardwherehehadbeenattackedbybadIndiansincanoes。Mr。Huntwasstartledbythisintelligence,andmadefurtherinquiries。TheyinformedhimthattheIndianshadlashedtheircanoestotheship,andfoughtuntiltheykilledhimandallhispeople。ThisisanotherinstanceoftheclearnesswithwhichintelligenceistransmittedfrommouthtomouthamongtheIndiantribes。Thesetidings,thoughbutpartiallycreditedbyMr。Hunt,filledhismindwithanxiousforebodings。Henowendeavoredtoprocurecanoes,inwhichtodescendtheColumbia,butnonesuitableforthepurposeweretobeobtainedabovetheNarrows;hecontinuedon,therefore,thedistanceoftwelvemiles,andencampedonthebankoftheriver。Thecampwassoonsurroundedbyloiteringsavages,whowentprowlingaboutseekingwhattheymightpilfer。Beingbaffledbythevigilanceoftheguard,theyendeavoredtocompasstheirendsbyothermeans。 Towardsevening,anumberofwarriorsenteredthecampinrufflingstyle;paintedanddressedoutasifforbattle,andarmedwithlances,bowsandarrows,andscalpingknives。TheyinformedMr。Huntthatapartyofthirtyorfortybraveswerecomingupfromavillagebelowtoattackthecampandcarryoffthehorses,butthattheyweredeterminedtostaywithhimanddefendhim。Mr。Huntreceivedthemwithgreatcoldness,and,whentheyhadfinishedtheirstory,gavethemapipetosmoke。Hethencalledupallhands,stationedsentinelsindifferentquarters,buttoldthemtokeepasvigilantaneyewithinthecampaswithout。 Thewarriorswereevidentlybaffledbytheseprecautions,and,havingsmokedtheirpipe,andvaporedofftheirvalor,tooktheirdeparture。Thefarce,however,didnotendhere。Afteralittlewhilethewarriorsreturned,usheringinanothersavage,stillmoreheroicallyarrayed。Thistheyannouncedasthechiefofthebelligerentvillage,butasagreatpacificator。Hispeoplehadbeenfuriouslybentupontheattack,andwouldhavedoubtlesscarrieditintoeffect,butthisgallantchiefhadstoodforthasthefriendofwhitemen,andhaddispersedthethrongbyhisownauthorityandprowess。Havingvauntedthissignalpieceofservice,therewasasignificantpause;allevidentlyexpectingsomeadequatereward。Mr。Huntagainproducedthepipe,smokedwiththechieftainandhisworthycompeers;butmadenofurtherdemonstrationsofgratitude。Theyremainedaboutthecampallnight,butatdaylightreturned,baffledandcrestfallen,totheirhomes,withnothingbutsmokefortheirpains。 Mr。Huntnowendeavoredtoprocurecanoes,ofwhichhesawseveralabouttheneighborhood,extremelywellmade,withelevatedstemsandsterns,someofthemcapableofcarryingthreethousandpoundsweight。Hefounditextremelydifficult,however,todealwiththeseslipperypeople,whoseemedmuchmoreinclinedtopilfer。Notwithstandingastrictguardmaintainedroundthecamp,variousimplementswerestolen,andseveralhorsescarriedoff。Amongthelatter,wehavetoincludethelong-cherishedsteedofPierreDorion。Fromsomewilfulcaprice,thatworthypitchedhistentatsomedistancefromthemainbody,andtetheredhisinvaluablesteedbesideit,fromwhenceitwasabstractedinthenight,totheinfinitechagrinandmortificationofthehybridinterpreter。 Having,afterseveraldays’negotiation,procuredtherequisitenumberofcanoes,Mr。Huntwouldgladlyhaveleftthisthievishneighborhood,butwasdetaineduntilthe5thofFebruarybyviolentheadwinds,accompaniedbysnowandrain。Evenafterhewasenabledtogetunderway,hehadstilltostruggleagainstcontrarywindsandtempestuousweather。Thecurrentoftheriver,however,wasinhisfavor;havingmadeaportageatthegrandrapid,thecanoesmetwithnofurtherobstruction,and,ontheafternoonofthe15thofFebruary,sweptroundaninterveningcape,andcameinsightoftheinfantsettlementofAstoria。 Afterelevenmonthswanderinginthewilderness,agreatpartofthetimeovertracklesswastes,wherethesightofasavagewigwamwasararity,wemayimaginethedelightofthepoorweatherbeatentravellers,atbeholdingtheembryoestablishment,withitsmagazines,habitations,andpicketedbulwarks,seatedonahighpointofland,dominatingabeautifullittlebay,inwhichwasatrim-builtshallopridingquietlyatanchor。Ashoutofjoyburstfromeachcanoeatthelong-wished-forsight。Theyurgedtheircanoesacrossthebay,andpulledwitheagernessforshore,whereallhandspoureddownfromthesettlementtoreceiveandwelcomethem。Amongthefirsttogreetthemontheirlanding,weresomeoftheiroldcomradesandfellow-sufferers,who,undertheconductofReed,M’Lellan,andM’Kenzie,hadpartedfromthemattheCaldronLinn。ThesehadreachedAstorianearlyamonthpreviously,and,judgingfromtheirownnarrowescapefromstarvation,hadgivenupMr。Huntandhisfollowersaslost。 Theirgreetingwasthemorewarmandcordial。AstotheCanadianvoyageurs,theirmutualfelicitations,asusual,wereloudandvociferous,anditwasalmostludicroustobeholdtheseancient“comrades“and“confreres。”huggingandkissingeachotherontheriverbank。 Whenthefirstgreetingswereover,thedifferentbandsinterchangedaccountsoftheirseveralwanderings,afterseparatingatSnakeRiver;weshallbrieflynoticeafewoftheleadingparticulars。Itwillberecollectedbythereader,thatasmallexploringdetachmenthadproceededdowntheriver,undertheconductofMr。JohnReed,aclerkofthecompany;thatanotherhadsetoffunderM’Lellan,andathirdinadifferentdirection,underM’Kenzie。AfterwanderingforseveraldayswithoutmeetingwithIndians,orobtaininganysupplies,theycametogetherfortuitouslyamongtheSnakeRivermountains,somedistancebelowthatdisastrouspassorstraitwhichhadreceivedtheappellationoftheDevil’sScuttleHole。 Whenthusunited,theirpartyconsistedofM’Kenzie,M’Lellan,Reed,andeightmen,chieflyCanadians。Beingallinthesamepredicament,withouthorses,provisions,orinformationofanykind,theyallagreedthatitwouldbeworsethanuselesstoreturntoMr。Huntandencumberhimwithsomanystarvingmen,andthattheironlycoursewastoextricatethemselvesassoonaspossiblefromthislandoffamineandmiseryandmakethebestoftheirwayfortheColumbia。TheyaccordinglycontinuedtofollowthedownwardcourseofSnakeRiver;clamberingrocksandmountains,anddefyingallthedifficultiesanddangersofthatruggeddefile,whichsubsequently,whenthesnowshadfallen,wasfoundimpassablebyMessrs。HuntandCrooks。 Thoughconstantlyneartothebordersoftheriver,andforagreatpartofthetimewithinsightofitscurrent,oneoftheirgreatestsufferingswasthirst。Theriverhadwornitswayinadeepchannelthroughrockymountains,destituteofbrooksorsprings。Itsbanksweresohighandprecipitous,thattherewasrarelyanyplacewherethetravellerscouldgetdowntodrinkofitswaters。FrequentlytheysufferedformilesthetormentsofTantalus;watercontinuallywithinsight,yetfeveredwiththemostparchingthirst。Hereandtheretheymetwithrainwatercollectedinthehollowsoftherocks,butmorethanoncetheywerereducedtotheutmostextremity;andsomeofthemenhadrecoursetothelastexpedienttoavoidperishing。 Theirsufferingsfromhungerwereequallysevere。Theycouldmeetwithnogame,andsubsistedforatimeonstripsofbeaverskin,broiledonthecoals。Theseweredoledoutinscantyallowances,barelysufficienttokeepupexistence,andatlengthfailedthemaltogether。Stilltheycreptfeeblyon,scarcedraggingonelimbafteranother,untilaseveresnow-stormbroughtthemtoapause。 Tostruggleagainstit,intheirexhaustedcondition,wasimpossible,socoweringunderanimpendingrockatthefootofasteepmountain,theypreparedthemselvesforthatwretchedfatewhichseemedinevitable。 Atthiscriticaljuncture,whenfaminestaredthemintheface,M’Lellancastinguphiseyes,beheldanahsahta,orbighorn,shelteringitselfunderashelvingrockonthesideofthehillabovethem。Beinginamoreactiveplightthananyofhiscomrades,andanexcellentmarksman,hesetofftogetwithinshotoftheanimal。Hiscompanionswatchedhismovementswithbreathlessanxiety,fortheirlivesdependeduponhissuccess。Hemadeacautiouscircuit;scrambledupthehillwiththeutmostsilence,andatlengtharrived,unperceived,withinaproperdistance。Herelevelinghisriflehetooksosureanaim,thatthebighornfelldeadonthespot;afortunatecircumstance,for,topursueit,ifmerelywounded,wouldhavebeenimpossibleinhisemaciatedstate。Thedeclivityofthehillenabledhimtorollthecarcassdowntohiscompanions,whoweretoofeebletoclimbtherocks。Theyfelltoworktocutitup;yetexertedaremarkableself-denialformenintheirstarvingcondition,fortheycontentedthemselvesforthepresentwithasoupmadefromthebones,reservingthefleshforfuturerepasts。Thisprovidentialreliefgavethemstrengthtopursuetheirjourney,buttheywerefrequentlyreducedtoalmostequalstraits,anditwasonlythesmallnessoftheirparty,requiringasmallsupplyofprovisions,thatenabledthemtogetthroughthisdesolateregionwiththeirlives。 Atlength,aftertwenty-onedaysofto11andsuffering,theygotthroughthesemountains,andarrivedatatributarystreamofthatbranchoftheColumbiacalledLewisRiver,ofwhichSnakeRiverformsthesouthernfork。Inthisneighborhoodtheymetwithwildhorses,thefirsttheyhadseenwestoftheRockyMountains。 FromhencetheymadetheirwaytoLewisRiver,wheretheyfellinwithafriendlytribeofIndians,whofreelyadministeredtotheirnecessities。Onthisrivertheyprocuredtwocanoes,inwhichtheydroppeddownthestreamtoitsconfluencewiththeColumbia,andthendownthatrivertoAstoria,wheretheyarrivedhaggardandemaciated,andperfectlyinrags。 Thus,alltheleadingpersonsofMr。Hunt’sexpeditionwereoncemoregatheredtogether,exceptingMr。Crooks,ofwhosesafetytheyentertainedbutlittlehope,consideringthefeebleconditioninwhichtheyhadbeencompelledtoleavehimintheheartofthewilderness。 Adaywasnowgivenuptojubilee,tocelebratethearrivalofMr。Huntandhiscompanions,andthejoyfulmeetingofthevariousscatteredbandsofadventurersatAstoria。Thecolorswerehoisted;theguns,greatandsmall,werefired;therewasafeastoffish,ofbeaver,andvenison,whichrelishedwellwithmenwhohadsolongbeengladtorevelonhorsefleshanddogs’ meat;agenialallowanceofgrogwasissued,toincreasethegeneralanimation,andthefestivitieswoundup,asusual,withagranddanceatnight,bytheCanadianvoyageurs。* *ThedistancefromSt。LouistoAstoria,bytheroutetravelledbyHuntandM’Kenzie,wasupwardsofthirty-fivehundredmiles,thoughinadirectlineitdoesnotexceedeighteenhundred。 CHAPTERXXXIX。 ScantyFareDuringtheWinter-APoorHuntingGround-TheReturnoftheFishingSeason-TheUthlecanorSmelt-ItsQualities-VastShoalsofit-Sturgeon-IndianModesofTakingIt-TheSalmon-DifferentSpecies-NatureoftheCountryAbouttheCoast-ForestsandForestTrees-ARemarkableFloweringVine-Animals-Birds-Reptiles-ClimateWestoftheMountains-MildnessoftheTemperature-SoiloftheCoastandtheInterior。 THEwinterpassedawaytranquillyatAstoria。Theapprehensionsofhostilityfromthenativeshadsubsided;indeed,astheseasonadvanced,theIndiansforthemostparthaddisappearedfromtheneighborhood,andabandonedthesea-coast,sothat,forwantoftheiraid,thecolonistshadattimessufferedconsiderablyforwantofprovisions。Thehuntersbelongingtotheestablishmentmadefrequentandwideexcursions,butwithverymoderatesuccess。Thereweresomedeerandafewbearstobefoundinthevicinity,andelkingreatnumbers;thecountry,however,wassorough,andthewoodssocloseandentangledthatitwasalmostimpossibletobeatupthegame。Theprevalentrainsofwinter,also,rendereditdifficultforthehuntertokeephisarmsinorder。Thequantityofgame,therefore,broughtinbythehunterswasextremelyscanty,anditwasfrequentlynecessarytoputallhandsonverymoderateallowance。Towardsspring,however,thefishingseasoncommenced-theseasonofplentyontheColumbia。 AboutthebeginningofFebruary,asmallkindoffish,aboutsixincheslong,calledbythenativestheuthlecan,andresemblingthesmelt,madeitsappearanceatthemouthoftheriver。Itissaidtobeofdeliciousflavor,andsofatastoburnlikeacandle,forwhichitisoftenusedbythenatives。Itenterstheriverinimmenseshoals,likesolidcolumns,oftenextendingtothedepthoffiveormorefeet,andisscoopedupbythenativeswithsmallnetsattheendofpoles。Inthiswaytheywillsoonfillacanoe,orformagreatheapupontheriverbanks。Thesefishconstituteaprincipalarticleoftheirfood;thewomendryingthemandstringingthemoncords。Astheuthlecanisonlyfoundinthelowerpartoftheriver,thearrivalofitsoonbroughtbackthenativestothecoast;whoagainresortedtothefactorytotrade,andfromthattimefurnishedplentifulsuppliesoffish。 Thesturgeonmakesitsappearanceintherivershortlyaftertheuthlecan,andistakenindifferentwaysbythenatives: sometimestheyspearit;butoftenertheyusethehookandline,andthenet。Occasionally,theysinkacordintheriverbyaheavyweight,withabuoyattheupperend,tokeepfloating。Tothiscordseveralhooksareattachedbyshortlines,afewfeetdistantfromeachother,andbaitedwithsmallfish。Thisapparatusisoftensettowardsnight,andbythenextmorningseveralsturgeonwillbefoundhookedbyit;forthoughalargeandstrongfish,itmakesbutlittleresistancewhenensnared。 Thesalmon,whicharetheprimefishoftheColumbia,andasimportanttothepiscatorytribesasarethebuffaloestothehuntersoftheprairies,donotentertheriveruntiltowardsthelatterpartofMay,fromwhichtime,untilthemiddleofAugust,theyaboundandaretakeninvastquantities,eitherwiththespearorseine,andmostlyinshallowwater。Aninferiorspeciessucceeds,andcontinuesfromAugusttoDecember。Itisremarkableforhavingadoublerowofteeth,halfaninchlongandextremelysharp,fromwhenceithasreceivedthenameofthedog-toothedsalmon。Itisgenerallykilledwiththespearinsmallrivulets,andsmokedforwinterprovision。WehavenoticedinaformerchapterthemodeinwhichthesalmonaretakenandcuredatthefallsoftheColumbia;andputtipinparcelsforexportation。 Fromthesedifferentfisheriesoftherivertribes,theestablishmentatAstoriahadtoderivemuchofitsprecarioussuppliesofprovisions。 Ayear’sresidenceatthemouthoftheColumbia,andvariousexpeditionsintheinterior,hadnowgiventheAstorianssomeideaofthecountry。Thewholecoastisdescribedasremarkablyruggedandmountainous;withdenseforestsofhemlock,spruce,whiteandredcedar,cotton-wood,whiteoak,whiteandswampash,willow,andafewwalnut。Thereislikewiseanundergrowthofaromaticshrubs,creepers,andclamberingvines,thatrendertheforestsalmostimpenetrable;togetherwithberriesofvariouskinds,suchasgooseberries,strawberries,raspberries,bothredandyellow,verylargeandfinelyflavoredwhortleberries,cranberries,serviceberries,blackberries,currants,sloes,andwildandchokecherries。 Amongthefloweringvinesisonedeservingofparticularnotice。 Eachfloweriscomposedofsixleavesorpetals,aboutthreeinchesinlength,ofabeautifulcrimson,theinsidespottedwithwhite。Itsleaves,ofafinegreen,areoval,anddisposedbythrees。Thisplantclimbsuponthetreeswithoutattachingitselftothem;whenithasreachedthetopmostbranches,itdescendsperpendicularly,andasitcontinuestogrow,extendsfromtreetotree,untilitsvariousstalksinterlacethegroveliketheriggingofaship。Thestemsortrunksofthisvinearetougherandmoreflexiblethanwillow,andarefromfiftytoonehundredfathomsinlength。Fromthefibres,theIndiansmanufacturebasketsofsuchclosetextureastoholdwater。 Theprincipalquadrupedsthathadbeenseenbythecolonistsintheirvariousexpeditionswerethestag,fallowdeer,hart,blackandgrizzlybear,antelope,ahsahtaorbighorn,beaver,seaandriverotter,muskrat,fox,wolf,andpanther,thelatterextremelyrare。Theonlydomesticanimalsamongthenativeswerehorsesanddogs。 Thecountryaboundedwithaquaticandlandbirds,suchasswans,wildgeese,brant,ducksofalmosteverydescription,pelicans,herons,gulls,snipes,curlews,eagles,vultures,crows,ravens,magpies,woodpeckers,pigeons,partridges,pheasants,grouse,andagreatvarietyofsingingbirds。 Therewerefewreptiles;theonlydangerouskindsweretherattlesnake,andonestripedwithblack,yellow,andwhite,aboutfourfeetlong。Amongthelizardkindwasoneaboutnineorteninchesinlength,exclusiveofthetall,andthreeinchesincircumference。Thetailwasround,andofthesamelengthasthebody。Theheadwastriangular,coveredwithsmallsquarescales。 Theupperpartofthebodywaslikewisecoveredwithsmallscales,green,yellow,black,andblue。Eachfoothadfivetoes,furnishedwithstrongnails,probablytoaiditinburrowing,asitusuallylivedundergroundontheplains。 Aremarkablefact,characteristicofthecountrywestoftheRockyMountains,isthemildnessandequabilityoftheclimate。 Thegreatmountainbarrierseemstodividethecontinentintodifferentclimates,eveninthesamedegreesoflatitude。Therigorouswintersandsultrysummers,andallthecapriciousinequalitiesoftemperatureprevalentontheAtlanticsideofthemountains,arebutlittlefeltontheirwesterndeclivities。ThecountriesbetweenthemandthePacificareblessedwithmilderandsteadiertemperature,resemblingtheclimatesofparallellatitudesinEurope。Intheplainsandvalleysbutlittlesnowfallsthroughoutthewinter,andusuallymeltswhilefalling。Itrarelyliesonthegroundmorethantwodaysatatime,exceptonthesummitsofthemountains。Thewintersarerainyratherthancold。Therainsforfivemonths,fromthemiddleofOctobertothemiddleofMarch,arealmostincessant,andoftenaccompaniedbytremendousthunderandlightning。Thewindsprevalentatthisseasonarefromthesouthandsoutheast,whichusuallybringrain。Thosefromthenorthtothesouthwestaretheharbingersoffairweatherandaclearsky。Theresidueoftheyear,fromthemiddleofMarchtothemiddleofOctober,anintervalofsevenmonths,issereneanddelightful。Thereisscarcelyanyrainthroughoutthistime,yetthefaceofthecountryiskeptfreshandverdantbynightlydews,andoccasionallybyhumidfogsinthemornings。Thesearenotconsideredprejudicialtohealth,sinceboththenativesandthewhitessleepintheopenairwithperfectimpunity。Whilethisequableandblandtemperatureprevailsthroughoutthelowercountry,thepeaksandridgesofthevastmountainsbywhichitisdominated,arecoveredwithperpetualsnow。Thisrendersthemdiscernibleatagreatdistance,shiningattimeslikebrightsummerclouds,atothertimesassumingthemostaerialtints,andalwaysformingbrilliantandstrikingfeaturesinthevastlandscape。ThemildtemperatureprevalentthroughoutthecountryisattributedbysometothesuccessionofwindsfromthePacificOcean,extendingfromlatitudetwentydegreestoatleastfiftydegreesnorth。 Thesetempertheheatofsummer,sothatintheshadenooneisincommodedbyperspiration;theyalsosoftentherigorsofwinter,andproducesuchamoderationintheclimate,thattheinhabitantscanwearthesamedressthroughouttheyear。 Thesoilintheneighborhoodofthesea-coastisofabrowncolor,incliningtored,andgenerallypoor;beingamixtureofclayandgravel。Intheinterior,andespeciallyinthevalleysoftheRockyMountains,thesoilisgenerallyblackish,thoughsometimesyellow。Itisfrequentlymixedwithmarl,andwithmarinesubstancesinastateofdecomposition。Thiskindofsoilextendstoaconsiderabledepth,asmaybeperceivedinthedeepcutsmadebyravines,andbythebedsofrivers。Thevegetationinthesevalleysismuchmoreabundantthannearthecoast;infact,itisthesefertileintervals,lockedupbetweenrockysierras,orscoopedoutfrombarrenwastes,thatpopulationmustextenditself,asitwere,inveinsandramifications,ifevertheregionsbeyondthemountainsshouldbecomecivilized。 CHAPTERXL。 NativesintheNeighborhoodofAstoria-TheirPersonsandCharacteristics-CausesofDeformity——TheirDress-TheirContemptofBeards-Ornaments-ArmorandWeapons-ModeofFlatteningtheHead-ExtentoftheCustom-ReligiousBelief- TheTwoGreatSpiritsoftheAirandoftheFire-PriestsorMedicineMen-TheRivalIdols-PolygamyaCauseofGreatness- PettyWarfare-Music,Dancing,Gambling-ThievingaVirtue- KeenTraders-IntrusiveHabits-AbhorrenceofDrunkenness- AnecdoteofComcomly。 ABRIEFmentionhasalreadybeenmadeofthetribesorhordesexistingaboutthelowerpartoftheColumbiaatthetimeofthesettlement;afewmoreparticularsconcerningthemmaybeacceptable。ThefourtribesnearesttoAstoria,andwithwhomthetradershadmostintercourse,were,ashasheretoforebeenobserved,theChinooks,theClatsops,theWahkiacums,andtheCathlamets。TheChinooksresidechieflyalongthebanksofariverofthesamename,runningparalleltothesea-coast,throughalowcountrystuddedwithstagnantpools,andemptyingitselfintoBaker’sBay,afewmilesfromCapeDisappointment。 ThiswasthetribeoverwhichComcomly,theone-eyedchieftain,heldsway;itboastedtwohundredandfourteenfightingmen。 Theirchiefsubsistencewasonfish,withanoccasionalregaleofthefleshofelkanddeer,andofwild-fowlfromtheneighboringponds。 TheClatsopsresidedonbothsidesofPointAdams;theywerethemererelicsofatribewhichhadbeennearlysweptoffbythesmall-pox,anddidnotnumbermorethanonehundredandeightyfightingmen。 TheWahkiacums,orWaak-i-cums,inhabitedthenorthsideoftheColumbia,andnumberedsixty-sixwarriors。TheyandtheChinookswereoriginallythesame;butadisputearisingabouttwogenerationsprevioustothetimeofthesettlement,betweentherulingchiefandhisbrotherWahkiacum,thelatterseceded,andwithhisadherentsformedthepresenthordewhichcontinuestogobyhisname。Inthiswaynewtribesorclansareformed,andlurkingcausesofhostilityengendered。 TheCathlametslivedoppositetothelowervillageoftheWahkiacums,andnumberedninety-fourwarriors。 Thesefourtribes,orratherclans,haveeveryappearanceofspringingfromthesameorigin,resemblingeachotherinperson,dress,language,andmanners。Theyareratheradiminutiverace,generallybelowfivefeetfiveinches,withcrookedlegsandthickankles-adeformitycausedbytheirpassingsomuchoftheirtimesittingorsquattinguponthecalvesoftheirlegsandtheirheels,inthebottomoftheircanoes-afavoriteposition,whichtheyretain,evenwhenonshore。Thewomenincreasethedeformitybywearingtightbandagesroundtheankles,whichpreventthecirculationoftheblood,andcauseaswellingofthemusclesoftheleg。 Neithersexcanboastofpersonalbeauty。Theirfacesareround,withsmallbutanimatedeyes。Theirnosesarebroadandflatattop,andfleshyattheend,withlargenostrils。Theyhavewidemouths,thicklips,andshort,irregularanddirtyteeth。IndeedgoodteethareseldomtobeseenamongthetribeswestoftheRockyMountains,wholivesimplyonfish。 Intheearlystagesoftheirintercoursewithwhitemen,thesesavageswerebutscantilyclad。Insummertimethemenwententirelynaked;inthewinterandinbadweatherthemenworeasmallrobe,reachingtothemiddleofthethigh,madeoftheskinsofanimals,orofthewoolofthemountainsheep。 Occasionally,theyworeakindofmantleofmatting,tokeepofftherainbut,havingthusprotectedthebackandshoulders,theylefttherestofthebodynaked。 Thewomenworesimilarrobes,thoughshorter,notreachingbelowthewaist;besideswhich,theyhadakindofpetticoat,orfringe,reachingfromthewaisttotheknee,formedofthefibresofcedarbark,brokenintostrands,oratissueofsilkgrasstwistedandknottedattheends。Thiswastheusualdressofthewomeninsummer;shouldtheweatherbeinclement,theyaddedavestofskins,similartotherobe。 Themencarefullyeradicatedeveryvestigeofabeard,consideringitagreatdeformity。Theylookedwithdisgustatthewhiskersandwell-furnishedchinsofthewhitemen,andinderisioncalledthemLong-beards。Bothsexes,ontheotherhand,cherishedthehairofthehead,whichwiththemisgenerallyblackandrathercoarse。Theyallowedittogrowtoagreatlengthandwereveryproudandcarefulofit,sometimeswearingitplaited,sometimeswoundroundtheheadinfancifultresses。 Nogreateraffrontcouldbeofferedtothemthantocutofftheirtreasuredlocks。 Theyhadconicalhatswithnarrowrims,neatlywovenofbeargrassorofthefibresofcedarbark,interwovenwithdesignsofvariousshapesandcolors;sometimesmerelysquaresandtriangles,atothertimesruderepresentationsofcanoes,withmenfishingandharpooning。Thesehatswerenearlywaterproof,andextremelydurable。 Thefavoriteornamentsofthemenwerecollarsofbears’claws,theproudtrophiesofhuntingexploits;whilethewomenandchildrenworesimilardecorationsofelks’tusks。Anintercoursewiththewhitetraders,however,sooneffectedachangeinthetoiletsofbothsexes。Theybecamefondofarrayingthemselvesinanyarticleofcivilizeddresswhichtheycouldprocure,andoftenmadeamostgrotesqueappearance。Theyadaptedmanyarticlesoffinery,also,totheirownprevioustastes。Bothsexeswerefondofadorningthemselveswithbraceletsofiron,brass,orcopper。Theyweredelighted,also,withblueandwhitebeads,particularlytheformer,andworebroadtightbandsofthemroundthewaistandankles,largerollsofthemroundtheneck,andpendantsofthemintheears。Themen,especially,whoinsavagelifecarryapassionforpersonaldecorationfurtherthanthefemales,didnotthinktheirgalaequipmentscompleteunlesstheyhadajewelofhiaqua,orwampum,danglingatthenose。Thusarrayed,theirhairbesmearedwithfishoil,andtheirbodiesbedaubedwithredclay,theyconsideredthemselvesirresistible。 Whenonwarlikeexpeditions,theypaintedtheirfacesandbodiesinthemosthideousandgrotesquemanner,accordingtotheuniversalpracticeofAmericansavages。Theirarmswerebowsandarrows,spears,andwarclubs。Someworeacorseletofpiecesofhardwoodlacedtogetherwithbeargrass,soastoformalightcoatofmail,plianttothebody;andakindofcasqueofcedarbark,leather,andbeargrass,sufficienttoprotecttheheadfromanarroworwarclub。Amorecompletearticleofdefensivearmorwasabuffjerkinorshirtofgreatthickness,madeofdoublingsofelkskin,andreachingtothefeet,holesbeingleftfortheheadandarms。Thiswasperfectlyarrowproof;addtowhich,itwasoftenendowedwithcharmedvirtues,bythespellsandmysticceremonialsofthemedicineman,orconjurer。 Ofthepeculiarcustom,prevalentamongthesepeople,offlatteningthehead,wehavealreadyspoken。Itisoneofthoseinstancesofhumancaprice,likethecripplingofthefeetoffemalesinChina,whicharequiteincomprehensible。Thiscustomprevailsprincipallyamongthetribesonthesea-coast,andaboutthelowerpartsoftherivers。Howfaritextendsalongthecoastwearenotabletoascertain。Someofthetribes,bothnorthandsouthoftheColumbia,practiceit;buttheyallspeaktheChinooklanguage,andprobablyoriginatedfromthesamestock。Asfaraswecanlearn,theremotertribes,whichspeakanentirelydifferentlanguage,donotflattenthehead。Thisabsurdcustomdeclines,also,inrecedingfromtheshoresofthePacific;fewtracesofitaretobefoundamongthetribesoftheRockyMountains,andaftercrossingthemountainsitdisappearsaltogether。ThoseIndians,therefore,abouttheheadwatersoftheColumbia,andinthesolitarymountainregions,whoareoftencalledFlatheads,mustnotbesupposedtobecharacterizedbythisdeformity。Itisanappellationoftengivenbythehunterseastofthemountainchain,toallwesternIndians,exceptingtheSnakes。 Thereligiousbeliefofthesepeoplewasextremelylimitedandconfined;orrather,inallprobability,theirexplanationswerebutlittleunderstoodbytheirvisitors。Theyhadanideaofabenevolentandomnipotentspirit,thecreatorofallthings。Theyrepresenthimasassumingvariousshapesatpleasure,butgenerallythatofanimmensebird。Heusuallyinhabitsthesun,butoccasionallywingshiswaythroughtheaerialregions,andseesallthatisdoinguponearth。Shouldanythingdispleasehim,heventshiswrathinterrificstormsandtempests,thelightningbeingtheflashesofhiseyes,andthethundertheclappingofhiswings。Topropitiatehisfavortheyoffertohimannualsacrificesofsalmonandvenison,thefirstfruitsoftheirfishingandhunting。 Besidesthisaerialspirittheybelieveinaninferiorone,whoinhabitsthefire,andofwhomtheyareinperpetualdread,as,thoughhepossessesequallythepowerofgoodandevil,theevilisapttopredominate。Theyendeavor,therefore,tokeephimingoodhumorbyfrequentofferings。Heissupposedalsotohavegreatinfluencewiththewingedspirit,theirsovereignprotectorandbenefactor。Theyimplorehim,therefore,toactastheirinterpreter,andprocurethemalldesirablethings,suchassuccessinfishingandhunting,abundanceofgame,fleethorses,obedientwives,andmalechildren。 TheseIndianshavelikewisetheirpriests,orconjurers,ormedicinemen,whopretendtobeintheconfidenceofthedeities,andtheexpoundersandenforcersoftheirwill。Eachofthesemedicinemenhashisidolscarvedinwood,representingthespiritsoftheairandofthefire,undersomerudeandgrotesqueformofahorse,abear,abeaver,orotherquadruped,orthatofbirdorfish。Theseidolsarehungroundwithamuletsandvotiveofferings,suchasbeavers’teeth,andbears’andeagles’claws。 Whenanychiefpersonageisonhisdeath-bed,ordangerouslyill,themedicinemenaresentfor。Eachbringswithhimhisidols,withwhichheretiresintoacanoetoholdaconsultation。Asdoctorsarepronetodisagree,sothesemedicinemenhavenowandthenaviolentaltercationastothemaladyofthepatient,orthetreatmentofit。Tosettlethistheybeattheiridolssoundlyagainsteachother;whicheverfirstlosesatoothoraclawisconsideredasconfuted,andhisvotaryretiresfromthefield。 Polygamyisnotonlyallowed,butconsideredhonorable,andthegreaternumberofwivesamancanmaintain,themoreimportantisheintheeyesofthetribe。Thefirstwife,however,takesrankofalltheothers,andisconsideredmistressofthehouse。Stillthedomesticestablishmentisliabletojealousiesandcabals,andthelordandmasterhasmuchdifficultyinmaintainingharmonyinhisjanglinghousehold。 Inthemanuscriptfromwhichwedrawmanyoftheseparticulars,itisstatedthathewhoexceedshisneighborsinthenumberofhiswives,malechildren,andslaves,iselectedchiefofthevillage;atitletoofficewhichwedonotrecollecteverbeforetohavemetwith。 Feudsarefrequentamong,thesetribes,butarenotverydeadly。 Theyhaveoccasionallypitchedbattles,foughtonappointeddays,andatspecificplaces,whicharegenerallythebanksofarivulet。Theadversepartiespostthemselvesontheoppositesidesofthestream,andatsuchdistancesthatthebattlesoftenlastalongwhilebeforeanybloodisshed。Thenumberofkilledandwoundedseldomexceedhalfadozen。Shouldthedamagebeequaloneachside,thewarisconsideredashonorablyconcluded; shouldonepartylosemorethantheother,itisentitledtoacompensationinslavesorotherproperty,otherwisehostilitiesareliabletoberenewedatafutureday。Theyarealsogiventopredatoryinroadsintotheterritoriesoftheirenemies,andsometimesoftheirfriendlyneighbors。Shouldtheyfalluponabandofinferiorforce,oruponavillage,weaklydefended,theyactwiththeferocityoftruepoltroons,slayingallthemen,andcarryingoffthewomenandchildrenasslaves。Astotheproperty,itispackeduponhorseswhichtheybringwiththemforthepurpose。Theyaremeanandpaltryaswarriors,andaltogetherinferiorinheroicqualitiestothesavagesofthebuffaloplainsontheeastsideofthemountains。 Agreatportionoftheirtimeispassedinrevelry,music,dancing,andgambling。Theirmusicscarcelydeservesthename; theinstrumentsbeingoftherudestkind。Theirsingingisharshanddiscordant;thesongsarechieflyextempore,relatingtopassingcircumstances,thepersonspresent,oranytriflingobjectthatstrikestheattentionofthesinger。Theyhaveseveralkindsofdances,someofthemlivelyandpleasing。Thewomenarerarelypermittedtodancewiththemen,butformgroupsapart,dancingtothesameinstrumentandsong。 Theyhaveagreatpassionforplay,andavarietyofgames。Tosuchapitchofexcitementaretheysometimesroused,thattheygambleawayeverythingtheypossess,eventotheirwivesandchildren。Theyarenotoriousthieves,also,andproudoftheirdexterity。Hewhoisfrequentlysuccessful,gainsmuchapplauseandpopularity;buttheclumsythief,whoisdetectedinsomebunglingattempt,isscoffedatanddespised,andsometimesseverelypunished。 SuchareafewleadingcharacteristicsofthenativesintheneighborhoodofAstoria。Theyappeartousinferiorinmanyrespectstothetribeseastofthemountains,theboldroversoftheprairies;andtopartakemuchofEsquimauxcharacter; elevatedinsomedegreebyamoregenialclimateandmorevariedlivingstyle。 ThehabitsoftrafficengenderedatthecataractsoftheColumbia,havehadtheirinfluencealongthecoast。TheChinooksandotherIndiansatthemouthoftheriver,soonprovedthemselveskeentraders,andintheirearlydealingswiththeAstoriansneverhesitatedtoaskthreetimeswhattheyconsideredtherealvalueofanarticle。Theywereinquisitive,also,intheextreme,andimpertinentlyintrusive;andwerepronetoindulgeinscoffingandridiculeattheexpenseofthestrangers。 Inonething,however,theyshowedsuperiorjudgmentandself- commandtomostoftheirrace;thiswas,intheirabstinencefromardentspirits,andtheabhorrenceanddisgustwithwhichtheyregardedadrunkard。OnoneoccasionasonofComcomlyhadbeeninducedtodrinkfreelyatthefactory,andwenthomeinastateofintoxication,playingallkindsofmadpranks,untilhesankintoastupor,inwhichheremainedfortwodays。Theoldchieftainrepairedtohisfriend,M’Dougal,withindignationflaminginhiscountenance,andbitterlyreproachedhimforhavingpermittedhissontodegradehimselfintoabeast,andtorenderhimselfanobjectofscornandlaughtertohisslave。 CHAPTERXLI。 SpringArrangementsatAstoria-VariousExpeditionsSetOut- TheLongNarrows-PilferingIndians-ThievishTribeatWish- ram-PortageattheFalls-PortagebyMoonlight-AnAttack,aRoute,andaRobbery-IndianCureforCowardice-AParleyandCompromise-TheDespatchPartyTurnBack-MeetCrooksandJohnDay-TheirSufferings-IndianPerfidy-ArrivalatAstoria。 ASthespringopened,thelittlesettlementofAstoriawasinagitation,andpreparedtosendforthvariousexpeditions。 Severalimportantthingsweretobedone。ItwasnecessarytosendasupplyofgoodstothetradingpostofMr。DavidStuart,establishedintheprecedingautumnontheOakinagan。Thecache,orsecretdeposit,madebyMr。HuntattheCaldronLinn,waslikewisetobevisited,andthemerchandiseandothereffectsleftthere,tobebroughttoAstoria。AthirdobjectofmomentwastosenddespatchesoverlandtoMr。AstoratNewYork,informinghimofthestateofaffairsatthesettlement,andthefortunesoftheseveralexpeditions。 ThetaskofcarryingsuppliestoOakinaganwasassignedtoMr。 RobertStuart,aspiritedandenterprisingyoungman,nephewtotheonewhohadestablishedthepost。Thecachewastobesoughtoutbytwooftheclerks,namedRussellFarnhamandDonaldM’Gilles,conductedbyaguide,andaccompaniedbyeightmen,toassistinbringinghomethegoods。 Astothedespatches,theywereconfidedtoMr。JohnReed,theclerk,thesamewhohadconductedoneoftheexploringdetachmentsofSnakeRiver。Hewasnowtotracebackhiswayacrossthemountainsbythesameroutebywhichhehadcome,withnoothercompanionsorescortthanBenJones,theKentuckyhunter,andtwoCanadians。AsitwasstillhopedthatMr。Crooksmightbeinexistence,andthatMr。Reedandhispartymightmeetwithhiminthecourseoftheirroute,theywerechargedwithasmallsupplyofgoodsandprovisions,toaidthatgentlemanonhiswaytoAstoria。 WhentheexpeditionofReedwasmadeknown,Mr。M’Lellanannouncedhisdeterminationtoaccompanyit。Hehadlongbeendissatisfiedwiththesmallnessofhisinterestinthecopartnership,andhadrequestedanadditionalnumberofshares; hisrequestnotbeingcompliedwith,heresolvedtoabandonthecompany。M’Lellanwasamanofasingularlyself-willedanddecidedcharacter,withwhompersuasionwasuseless;hewaspermitted,therefore,totakehisowncoursewithoutopposition。 AstoReed,hesetaboutpreparingforhishazardousjourneywiththezealofatrueIrishman。Hehadatincasemade,inwhichthelettersandpapersaddressedtoMr。Astorwerecarefullysolderedup。Thiscaseheintendedtostrapuponhisshoulders,soastobearitaboutwithhim,sleepingandwaking,inallchangesandchances,bylandorbywater,andnevertopartwithitbutwithhislife! AstherouteoftheseseveralpartieswouldbethesamefornearlyfourhundredmilesuptheColumbia,andwithinthatdistancewouldliethroughthepiraticalpassoftherapids,andamongthefreebootingtribesoftheriver,itwasthoughtadvisabletostartaboutthesametime,andtokeeptogether。 Accordingly,onthe22dofMarch,theyallsetoff,tothenumberofseventeenmen,intwocanoes-andherewecannotbutpausetonoticethehardihoodoftheseseveralexpeditions,soinsignificantinpointofforce,andseverallydestinedtotraverseimmensewildernesseswherelargerpartieshadexperiencedsomuchdangeranddistress。WhenrecruitsweresoughtintheprecedingyearamongexperiencedhuntersandvoyageursatMontrealandSt。Louis,itwasconsidereddangeroustoattempttocrosstheRockyMountainswithlessthansixtymen; andyetherewefindReedreadytopushhiswayacrossthosebarrierswithmerelythreecompanions。Suchisthefearlessness,theinsensibilitytodanger,whichmenacquirebythehabitudeofconstantrisk。Themind,likethebody,becomescallousbyexposure。 Thelittleassociatedbandproceededuptheriver,underthecommandofMr。RobertStuart,andarrivedearlyinthemonthofAprilattheLongNarrows,thatnotoriousplunderingplace。Hereitwasnecessarytounloadthecanoes,andtotransportboththemandtheircargoestotheheadoftheNarrowsbyland。Theirpartywastoofewinnumberforthepurpose。Theywereobliged,therefore,toseektheassistanceoftheCathlascoIndians,whoundertooktocarrythegoodsontheirhorses。Forwardthentheyset,theIndianswiththeirhorseswellfreighted,andthefirstloadconvoyedbyReedandfivemen,wellarmed;thegallantIrishmanstridingalongatthehead,withhistincaseofdespatchesglitteringonhisback。Inpassing,however,througharockyandintricatedefile,someofthefreebootingvagrantsturnedtheirhorsesupanarrowpathandgallopedoff,carryingwiththemtwobalesofgoods,andanumberofsmallerarticles。 Tofollowthemwasuseless;indeed,itwaswithmuchadothattheconvoygotintoportwiththeresidueofthecargoes;forsomeoftheguardswerepillagedoftheirknivesandpockethandkerchiefs,andthelustroustincaseofMr。JohnReedwasinimminentjeopardy。 Mr。Stuartheardofthesedepredations,andhastenedforwardtothereliefoftheconvoy,butcouldnotreachthembeforedusk,bywhichtimetheyhadarrivedatthevillageofWish-ram,alreadynotedforitsgreatfishery,andtheknavishpropensitiesofitsinhabitants。Heretheyfoundthemselvesbenightedinastrangeplace,andsurroundedbysavagesbentonpilfering,ifnotuponopenrobbery。Notknowingwhatactivecoursetotake,theyremainedunderarmsallnight,withoutclosinganeye,andattheveryfirstpeepofdawn,whenobjectswereyetscarcevisible,everythingwashastilyembarked,and,withoutseekingtorecoverthestoleneffects,theypushedofffromshore,“gladtobidadieu。”astheysaid,“tothisabominablenestofmiscreants。” TheworthiesofWish-ram,however,werenotdisposedtopartsoeasilywiththeirvisitors。Theircupidityhadbeenquickenedbytheplunderwhichtheyhadalreadytaken,andtheirconfidenceincreasedbytheimpunitywithwhichtheiroutragehadpassed。 Theyresolved,therefore,totakefurthertollofthetravellers,and,ifpossible,tocapturethetincaseofdespatches;whichshiningconspicuouslyfromafar,andbeingguardedbyJohnReedwithsuchespecialcare,must,astheysupposed,be“agreatmedicine。” Accordingly,Mr。Stuartandhiscomradeshadnotproceededfarinthecanoes,whentheybeheldthewholerabbleofWishramstringingingroupsalongthebank,whoopingandyelling,andgibberingintheirwildjargon,andwhentheylandedbelowthefalls,theyweresurroundedbyupwardsoffourhundredoftheseriverruffians,armedwithbowsandarrows,warclubs,andothersavageweapons。Thesenowpressedforward,withofferstocarrythecanoesandeffectsuptheportage。MrStuartdeclinedforwardingthegoods,allegingthelatenessofthehour;but,tokeepthemingoodhumor,informedthem,that,iftheyconductedthemselveswell,theirofferedservicesmightprobablybeacceptedinthemorning;inthemeanwhile,hesuggestedthattheymightcarryupthecanoes。Theyaccordinglysetoffwiththetwocanoesontheirshoulders,accompaniedbyaguardofeightmenwellarmed。 Whenarrivedattheheadofthefalls,themischievousspiritofthesavagesbrokeout,andtheywereonthepointofdestroyingthecanoes,doubtlesswithaviewtoimpedethewhitemenfromcarryingforwardtheirgoods,andlayingthemopentofurtherpilfering。Theywerewithsomedifficultypreventedfromcommittingthisoutragebytheinterferenceofanoldman,whoappearedtohaveauthorityamongthem;and,inconsequenceofhisharangue,thewholeofthehostileband,withtheexceptionofaboutfifty,crossedtothenorthsideoftheriver,wheretheylayinwait,readyforfurthermischief。 Inthemeantime,Mr。Stuart,whohadremainedatthefootofthefallswiththegoods,andwhoknewthattheprofferedassistanceofthesavageswasonlyforthepurposeofhavinganopportunitytoplunder,determined,ifpossible,tostealamarchuponthem,anddefeattheirmachinations。Inthedeadofthenight,therefore,aboutoneo’clock,themoonshiningbrightly,herousedhisparty,andproposedthattheyshouldendeavortotransportthegoodsthemselves,abovethefalls,beforethesleepingsavagescouldbeawareoftheiroperations。Allhandssprangtotheworkwithzeal,andhurrieditoninthehopeofgettingalloverbeforedaylight。Mr。Stuartwentforwardwiththefirstloads,andtookhisstationattheheadoftheportage,whileMr。ReedandMr。M’Lellanremainedatthefoottoforwardtheremainder。 Thedaydawnedbeforethetransportationwascompleted。SomeofthefiftyIndianswhohadremainedonthesouthsideoftheriver,perceivedwhatwasgoingon,and,feelingthemselvestooweakforanattack,gavethealarmtothoseontheoppositeside,upwardsofahundredofwhomembarkedinseverallargecanoes。 Twoloadsofgoodsyetremainedtobebroughtup。Mr。Stuartdespatchedsomeofthepeopleforoneoftheloads,witharequesttoMr。Reedtoretainwithhimasmanyofthemenashethoughtnecessarytoguardtheremainingload,ashesuspectedhostileintentionsonthepartoftheIndians。Mr。Reed,however,refusedtoretainanyofthem,sayingthatM’Lellanandhimselfweresufficienttoprotectthesmallquantitythatremained。Themenaccordinglydepartedwiththeload,whileMr。ReedandM’Lellancontinuedtomountguardovertheresidue。Bythistime,anumberofthecanoeshadarrivedfromtheoppositeside。Astheyapproachedtheshore,theunluckytinboxofJohnReed,shiningafarlikethebrillianthelmetofEuryalus,caughttheireyes。Nosoonerdidthecanoestouchtheshore,thantheyleapedforwardontherocks,setupawar-whoop,andsprangforwardtosecuretheglitteringprize。Mr。M’Lellan,whowasattheriverbank,advancedtoguardthegoods,whenoneofthesavagesattemptedtohoodwinkhimwithhisbuffalorobewithonehand,andtostabhimwiththeother。M’Lellansprangbackjustfarenoughtoavoidtheblow,andraisinghisrifle,shottheruffianthroughtheheart。 Inthemeantime,Reed,whowiththewantofforethoughtofanIrishman,hadneglectedtoremovetheleatherncoverfromthelockofhisrifle,wasfumblingatthefastenings,whenhereceivedablowontheheadwithawarclubthatlaidhimsenselessontheground。Inatwinklinghewasstrippedofhisrifleandpistols,andthetinbox,thecauseofallthisonslaught,wasborneoffintriumph。 Atthiscriticaljuncture,Mr。Stuart,whohadheardthewar- whoop,hastenedtothesceneofactionwithBenJones,andsevenothersofthemen。Whenhearrived,Reedwaswelteringinhisblood,andanIndianstandingoverhimandabouttodespatchhimwithatomahawk。Stuartgavetheword,whenBenJonesleveledhisrifle,andshotthemiscreantonthespot。Thementhengaveacheer,andchargeduponthemainbodyofthesavages,whotooktoinstantflight。Reedwasnowraisedfromtheground,andbornesenselessandbleedingtotheupperendoftheportage。 Preparationsweremadetolaunchthecanoesandembarkinallhaste,whenitwasfoundthattheyweretooleakytobeputinthewater,andthattheoarshadbeenleftatthefootofthefalls。Asceneofconfusionnowensued。TheIndianswerewhoopingandyelling,andrunningaboutlikefiends。Apanicseizeduponthemen,atbeingthussuddenlychecked,theheartsofsomeoftheCanadiansdiedwithinthem,andtwoyoungmenactuallyfaintedaway。Themomenttheyrecoveredtheirsenses,Mr。Stuartorderedthattheyshouldbedeprivedoftheirarms,theirundergarmentstakenoff,andthatapieceofclothshouldbetiedroundtheirwaists,inimitationofasquaw;anIndianpunishmentforcowardice。Thusequipped,theywerestowedawayamongthegoodsinoneofthecanoes。Thisludicrousaffairexcitedthemirthofthebolderspirits,eveninthemidstoftheirperils,androusedtheprideofthewavering。TheIndianshavingcrossedbackagaintothenorthside,orderwasrestored,someofthehandsweresentbackfortheoars,otherssettoworktocalkandlaunchthecanoes,andinalittlewhileallwereembarkedandwerecontinuingtheirvoyagealongthesouthernshore。 Nosoonerhadtheydeparted,thantheIndiansreturnedtothesceneofaction,boreofftheirtwocomradeswhohadbeenshot,oneofwhomwasstillliving,andreturnedtotheirvillage。 Heretheykilledtwohorses;anddrankthehotbloodtogivefiercenesstotheircourage。Theypaintedandarrayedthemselveshideouslyforbattle;performedthedeaddanceroundtheslain,andraisedthewarsongofvengeance。Thenmountingtheirhorsestothenumberoffourhundredandfiftymen,andbrandishingtheirweapons,theysetoffalongthenorthernbankoftheriver,togetaheadofthecanoes,lieinwaitforthem,andtakeaterriblerevengeonthewhitemen。 Theysucceededingettingsomedistanceabovethecanoeswithoutbeingdiscovered,andwerecrossingtherivertopostthemselvesonthesidealongwhichthewhitemenwerecoasting,whentheywerefortunatelydescried。Mr。Stuartandhiscompanionswereimmediatelyonthealert。Astheydrewneartotheplacewherethesavageshadcrossed,theyobservedthempostedamongsteepandoverhangingrocks,closealongwhich,thecanoeswouldhavetopass。Findingthattheenemyhadtheadvantageoftheground,thewhitesstoppedshortwhenwithinfivehundredyardsofthem,anddischargedandreloadedtheirpieces。Theythenmadeafire,anddressedthewoundsofMr。Reed,whohadreceivedfiveseveregashesinthehead。Thisbeingdone,theylashedthecanoestogether,fastenedthemtoarockatasmalldistancefromtheshore,andthereawaitedthemenacedattack。 Theyhadnotbeenlongpostedinthismanner,whentheysawacanoeapproaching。Itcontainedthewar-chiefofthetribe,andthreeofhisprincipalwarriors。Hedrewnear,andmadealongharangue,inwhichheinformedthemthattheyhadkilledoneandwoundedanotherofhisnation;thattherelationsoftheslaincriedoutforvengeance,andhehadbeencompelledtoleadthemtofight。Stillhewishedtospareunnecessarybloodshed;heproposed,therefore,thatMr。Reed,who,heobserved,waslittlebetterthanadeadman,mightbegivenuptobesacrificedtothemanesofthedeceasedwarrior。Thiswouldappeasethefuryofhisfriends;thehatchetwouldthenbeburied,andallthenceforwardwouldbefriends。Theanswerwasasternrefusalandadefiance,andthewar-chiefsawthatthecanoeswerewellpreparedforavigorousdefense。Hewithdrew,therefore,andreturningtohiswarriorsamongtherocksheldlongdeliberations。BloodforbloodisaprincipleinIndianequityandIndianhonor;butthoughtheinhabitantsofWish-ramweremenofwar,theywerelikewisemenoftraffic,anditwassuggestedthathonorforoncemightgivewaytoprofit。Anegotiationwasaccordinglyopenedwiththewhitemen,andaftersomediplomacy,thematterwascompromisedforablankettocoverthedead,andsometobaccotobesmokedbytheliving。Thisbeinggranted,theheroesofWish-ramcrossedtheriveroncemore,returnedtotheirvillagestofeastuponthehorseswhosebloodtheyhadsovaingloriouslydrunk,andthetravellerspursuedtheirvoyagewithoutfurthermolestation。 Thetincase,however,containingtheimportantdespatchesforNewYork,wasirretrievablylost;theveryprecautiontakenbytheworthyHiberniantosecurehismissives,had,byrenderingthemconspicuous,producedtheirrobbery。Theobjectofhisoverlandjourney,therefore,beingdefeated,hegaveuptheexpedition。ThewholepartyrepairedwithMr。RobertStuarttotheestablishmentofMr。DavidStuart,ontheOakinaganRiver。 Afterremainingheretwoorthreedays,theyallsetoutontheirreturntoAstoriaaccompaniedbyMr。DavidStuart。Thisgentlemanhadalargequantityofbeaverskinsathisestablishment,butdidnotthinkitprudenttotakethemwithhim。fearingthelevyof“blackmail“atthefalls。 Ontheirwaydown,whenbelowtheforksoftheColumbia,theywerehailedonedayfromtheshoreinEnglish。Lookingaround,theydescriedtwowretchedmen,entirelynaked。Theypulledtoshore;themencameupandmadethemselvesknown。TheyprovedtobeMr。Crooksandhisfaithfulfollower,JohnDay。 ThereaderwillrecollectthatMr。Crooks,withDayandfourCanadians,hadbeensoreducedbyfamineandfatigue,thatMr。 Huntwasobligedtoleavethem,inthemonthofDecember,onthebanksoftheSnakeRiver。Theirsituationwasthemorecritical,astheywereintheneighborhoodofabandofShoshonies,whosehorseshadbeenforciblyseizedbyMr。Hunt’spartyforprovisions。Mr。Crooksremainedheretwentydays,detainedbytheextremelyreducedstateofJohnDay,whowasutterlyunabletotravel,andwhomhewouldnotabandon,asDayhadbeeninhisemployontheMissouri,andhadalwaysprovedhimselfmostfaithful。FortunatelytheShoshoniesdidnotoffertomolestthem。Theyhadneverbeforeseenwhitemen,andseemedtoentertainsomesuperstitionswithregardtothem,forthoughtheywouldencampneartheminthedaytime,theywouldmoveoffwiththeirtentsinthenight;andfinallydisappeared,withouttakingleave。 WhenDaywassufficientlyrecoveredtotravel,theykeptfeeblyon,sustainingthemselvesaswellastheycould,untilinthemonthofFebruary,whenthreeoftheCanadians,fearfulofperishingwithwant,leftMr。Crooksonasmallriver,ontheroadbywhichMrHunthadpassedinquestofIndians。Mr。CrooksfollowedMr。Hunt’strackinthesnowforseveraldays,sleepingasusualintheopenair,andsufferingallkindsofhardships。 Atlength,comingtoalowprairie,helosteveryappearanceOfthe“trail。”andwanderedduringtheremainderofthewinterinthemountains,subsistingsometimesonhorsemeat,sometimesonbeaversandtheirskins,andapartofthetimeonroots。 AboutthelastofMarch,theotherCanadiangaveoutandwasleftwithalodgeofShoshonies;butMr。CrooksandJohnDaystillkepton,andfindingthesnowsufficientlydiminished,undertook,fromIndianinformation,tocrossthelastmountainridge。Theyhappilysucceeded,andafterwardsfellinwiththeWallah- Wallahs,atribeofIndiansinhabitingthebanksofariverofthesamename,andreputedasbeingfrank,hospitable,andsincere。Theyprovedworthyofthecharacter,fortheyreceivedthepoorwandererskindly,killedahorseforthemtoeat,anddirectedthemontheirwaytotheColumbia。TheystrucktheriveraboutthemiddleofApril,andadvanceddownitonehundredmiles,untiltheycamewithinabouttwentymilesofthefalls。 Heretheymetwithsomeofthe“chivalry“ofthatnotedpass,whoreceivedtheminafriendlyway,andsetfoodbeforethem;but,whiletheyweresatisfyingtheirhunger,perfidiouslyseizedtheirrifles。Theythenstrippedthemnaked,anddrovethemoff,refusingtheentreatiesofMr。Crooksforaflintandsteelofwhichtheyhadrobbedhim;andthreateninghislifeifhedidnotinstantlydepartInthisforlornplight,stillworseoffthanbefore,theyrenewedtheirwanderings。TheynowsoughttofindtheirwaybacktothehospitableWallah-Wallahs,andhadadvancedeightymilesalongtheriver,whenfortunately,ontheverymorningthattheyweregoingtoleavetheColumbiaandstrikeinland,thecanoesofMr。 Stuarthoveinsight。 Itisneedlesstodescribethejoyofthesepoormenatoncemorefindingthemselvesamongcountrymenandfriends,orofthehonestandheartywelcomewithwhichtheywerereceivedbytheirfellowadventurers。Thewholepartynowcontinueddowntheriver,passedallthedangerousplaceswithoutinterruption,andarrivedsafelyatAstoriaonthe11thofMay。 CHAPTERXLII ComprehensiveViews-ToSupplytheRussianFurEstablishment- AnAgentSenttoRussia-ProjectofanAnnualShip-TheBeaverFittedOut-HerEquipmentandCrew-InstructionstotheCaptain-TheSandwichIslands。RumorsoftheFateoftheTonquin-PrecautionsonReachingtheMouthoftheColumbia。 HAVINGtracedthefortunesofthetwoexpeditionsbyseaandlandtothemouthoftheColumbia,andpresentedaviewofaffairsatAstoria,wewillreturnforamomenttothemasterspiritoftheenterprise,whoregulatedthespringsofAstoria,athisresidenceinNewYork。 Itwillberemembered,thatapartoftheplanofMr。AstorwastofurnishtheRussianfurestablishmentonthenorthwestcoastwithregularsupplies,soastorenderitindependentofthosecasualvesselswhichcutupthetradeandsuppliedthenativeswitharms。Thisplanhadbeencountenancedbyourowngovernment,andlikewisebyCountPahlen,theRussianministeratWashington。 Asitsviews,however,wereimportantandextensive,andmighteventuallyaffectawidecourseofcommerce,MrAstorwasdesirousofestablishingacompletearrangementonthesubjectwiththeRussianAmericanFurCompany,underthesanctionoftheRussiangovernment。Forthispurpose,inMarch1811,hedespatchedaconfidentialagenttoSt。Petersburg,fullempoweredtoenterintotherequisitenegotiations。ApassagewasgiventothisgentlemanbythegovernmentoftheUnitedStatesintheJohnAdams,anarmedvessel,boundforEurope。 ThenextstepofMr。Astorwas,todespatchtheannualshipcontemplatedonhisgeneralplan。Hehadasyetheardnothingofthesuccessofthepreviousexpeditions,andhadtoproceeduponthepresumptionthateverythinghadbeeneffectedaccordingtohisinstructions。Heaccordinglyfittedoutafineshipoffourhundredandninetytons,calledtheBeaver,andfreightedherwithavaluablecargodestinedforthefactoryatthemouthoftheColumbia,thetradealongthecoast,andthesupplyoftheRussianestablishment。Inthisshipembarkedareinforcement,consistingofapartner,fiveclerks,fifteenAmericanlaborers,andsixCanadianvoyageurs。Inchoosinghisagentsforhisfirstexpedition,Mr。AstorhadbeenobligedtohaverecoursetoBritishsubjectsexperiencedintheCanadianfurtrade; henceforthitwashisintention,asmuchaspossible,toselectAmericans,soastosecureanascendencyofAmericaninfluenceinthemanagementofthecompany,andtomakeitdecidedlynational。 Accordingly,Mr。JohnClarke,thepartnerwhotooktheleadinthepresentexpedition,wasanativeoftheUnitedStates,thoughhehadpassedmuchofhislifeinthenorthwest,havingbeenemployedinthetradesincetheageofsixteen。MostoftheclerkswereyounggentlemenofgoodconnectionsintheAmericancities,someofwhomembarkedinthehopeofgain,othersthroughthemerespiritofadventureincidenttoyouth。 TheinstructionsgivenbyMr。AstortoCaptainSowle,thecommanderoftheBeaver,were,insomerespects,hypothetical,inconsequenceoftheuncertaintyrestinguponthepreviousstepsoftheenterprise。 HewastotouchattheSandwichIslands,inquireaboutthefortunesoftheTonquin,andwhetheranestablishmenthadbeenformedatthemouthoftheColumbia。Ifso,hewastotakeasmanySandwichIslandersashisshipcouldaccommodate,andproceedthither。Onarrivingattheriver,hewastoobservegreatcaution,forevenifanestablishmentshouldhavebeenformed,itmighthavefallenintohostilehands。Hewas,therefore,toputinasifbycasualtyordistress,togivehimselfoutasacoastingtrader,andtosaynothingabouthisshipbeingownedbyMr。Astor,untilhehadascertainedthateverythingwasright。Inthatcase,hewastolandsuchpartofhiscargoaswasintendedfortheestablishment,andtoproceedtoNewArchangelwiththesuppliesintendedfortheRussianpostatthatplace,wherehecouldreceivepeltriesinpayment。WiththesehewastoreturntoAstoria;takeinthefurscollectedthere,and,havingcompletedhiscargobytradingalongthecoast,wastoproceedtoCanton。ThecaptainreceivedthesameinjunctionsthathadbeengiventoCaptainThornoftheTonquin,ofgreatcautionandcircumspectioninhisintercoursewiththenatives,andthatheshouldnotpermitmorethanoneortwotobeonboardatatime。 TheBeaversailedfromNewYorkonthe10thofOctober,1811,andreachedtheSandwichIslandswithoutanyoccurrenceofmoment。 HerearumorwasheardofthedisastrousfateoftheTonquin。 Deepsolicitudewasfeltbyeveryoneonboardforthefateofbothexpeditions,byseaandland。DoubtswereentertainedwhetheranyestablishmenthadbeenformedatthemouthoftheColumbia,orwhetheranyofthecompanywouldbefoundthere。 Aftermuchdeliberation,theCaptaintooktwelveSandwichIslandersonboard,fortheserviceofthefactory,shouldtherebeoneinexistence,andproceededonhisvoyage。 Onthe6thofMay,hearrivedoffthemouthoftheColumbiaandrunningasnearaspossible,firedtwosignalguns。Noanswerwasreturned,norwasthereanysignaltobedescried。Nighcomingon,theshipstoodouttosea,andeveryheartdroopedasthelandfadedaway。Onthefollowingmorningtheyagainraninwithinfourmilesofshore,andfiredothersignalguns,butstillwithoutreply。Aboatwasthendespatched,tosoundthechannel,andattemptanentrance;butreturnedwithoutsuccesstherebeingatremendousswell,andbreakers。Signalgunswerefiredagainintheevening,butequallyinvain,andoncemoretheshipstoodofftoseaforthenight。Thecaptainnowgaveupallhopeoffindinganyestablishmentattheplace,andindulgedinthemostgloomyapprehensions。Hefearedhispredecessorhadbeenmassacredbeforetheyhadreachedtheirplaceofdestination;oriftheyshouldhaveerectedafactory,thatithadbeensurprisedanddestroyedbythenatives。 Inthismomentofdoubtanduncertainty,Mr。Clarkeannouncedhisdetermination,incaseoftheworst,tofoundanestablishmentwiththepresentparty,andallhandsbravelyengagedtostandbyhimintheundertaking。Thenextmorningtheshipstoodinforthethirdtime,andfiredthreesignalguns,butwithlittlehopeofreply。Tothegreatjoyofthecrew,threedistinctgunswereheardinanswer。TheapprehensionsofallbutCaptainSowlewerenowatrest。ThatcautiouscommanderrecollectedtheinstructionsgivenhimbyMr。Astor,anddeterminedtoproceedwithgreatcircumspection。HewaswellawareofIndiantreacheryandcunning。Itwasnotimpossible,heobserved,thatthesecannonmighthavebeenfiredbythesavagesthemselves。Theymighthavesurprisedthefort,massacreditsinmates;andthesesignalgunsmightonlybedecoystolurehimacrossthebar,thattheymighthaveachanceofcuttinghimoff,andseizinghisvessel。 AtlengthawhiteflagwasdescriedhoistedasasignalonCapeDisappointment。Thepassengerspointedtoitintriumph,butthecaptaindidnotyetdismisshisdoubts。Abeaconfireblazedthroughthenightonthesameplace,butthecaptainobservedthatallthesesignalsmightbetreacherous。 Onthefollowingmorning,May9th,thevesselcametoanchoroffCapeDisappointment,outsideofthebar。TowardsnoonanIndiancanoewasseenmakingfortheshipandallhandswereorderedtobeonthealert。Afewmomentsafterwards,abargewasperceivedfollowingthecanoe。Thehopesandfearsofthoseonboardoftheshipwereintumultuousagitation,astheboatdrewnighthatwastoletthemknowthefortunesoftheenterprise,andthefateoftheirpredecessors。Thecaptain,whowashauntedwiththeideaofpossibletreachery,didnotsufferhiscuriositytogetthebetterofhiscaution,butorderedapartyofhismenunderarms,toreceivethevisitors。Thecanoecamefirstalongside,inwhichwereComcomlyandsixIndians;inthebargewereM’Dougal,M’Lellan,andeightCanadians。Alittleconversationwiththesegentlemendispelledallthecaptain’sfears,andtheBeavercrossingthebarundertheirpilotage,anchoredsafelyinBaker’sBay。