第11章

类别:其他 作者:Washington Irving字数:29569更新时间:18/12/21 16:57:53
CHAPTERXLVII。 BenJonesandaGrizzlyBear-RockyHeights-MountainTorrents- TracesofM’Lellan-VolcanicRemains-MineralEarths-PeculiarClayforPottery-DismalPlightofM’Lellan-Starvation- ShockingPropositionofaDesperateMan-ABroken-DownBull-A RavenousMeal-IndianGraves-HospitableSnakes-AForlornAlliance。 ASthetravellerswerenowinadangerousneighborhood,wherethereportofariflemightbringthesavagesuponthem,theyhadtodependupontheiroldbeaver-trapforsubsistence。Thelittleriveronwhichtheywereencampedgavemany“beaversigns。”andBenJonessetoffatdaybreak,alongthewillowedbanks,tofindapropertrapping-place。Ashewasmakinghiswayamongthethickets,withhistraponhisshoulderandhisrifleinhishand,heheardacrushingsound,andturning,beheldahugegrizzlybearadvancinguponhim,withterrificgrowl。ThesturdyKentuckianwasnottobeintimidatedbymanormonster。Levelinghisrifle,hepulledthetrigger。Thebearwaswounded,butnotmortally:instead,however,ofrushinguponhisassailant,asisgenerallythecasewiththiskindofbear,heretreatedintothebushes。Jonesfollowedhimforsomedistance,butwithsuitablecaution,andBruineffectedhisescape。 Astherewaseveryprospectofadetentionofsomedaysinthisplace,andasthesuppliesofthebeaver-trapweretooprecarioustobedependedupon,itbecameabsolutelynecessarytorunsomeriskofdiscoverybyhuntingintheneighborhood。BenJones,therefore,obtainedpermissiontorangewithhisriflesomedistancefromthecamp,andsetofftobeatuptheriverbanks,indefianceofbearorBlackfeet。 Hereturnedingreatspiritsinthecourseofafewhours,havingcomeuponagangofelkaboutsix。milesoff,andkilledfive。 Thiswasjoyfulnews,andthepartyimmediatelymovedforwardtotheplacewherehehadleftthecarcasses。TheywereobligedtosupportMr。Crooksthewholedistance,forhewasunabletowalk。 Heretheyremainedfortwoorthreedays,feastingheartilyonelkmeat,anddryingasmuchastheywouldbeabletocarryawaywiththem。 Bythe5thofOctober,somesimpleprescriptions,togetherwithan“Indiansweat。”hadsofarbenefitedMr。Crooks,thathewasenabledtomoveabout;theythereforesetforwardslowly,dividinghispackandaccoutrementsamongthem,andmadeacreepingday’sprogressofeightmilessouth。Theirrouteforthemostpartlaythroughswampscausedbytheindustriouslaborsofthebeaver;forthislittleanimalhaddammedupnumeroussmallstreams,issuingfromthePilotKnobMountains,sothatthelowgroundsontheirborderswerecompletelyinundated。Inthecourseoftheirmarchtheykilledagrizzlybear,withfatonitsflanksupwardsofthreeinchesinthickness。Thiswasanacceptableadditiontotheirstockofelkmeat。ThenextdayMr。Crookswassufficientlyrecruitedinstrengthtobeabletocarryhisrifleandpistols,andtheymadeamarchofseventeenmilesalongthebordersoftheplain。 Theirjourneydailybecamemoretoilsome,andtheirsufferingsmoresevere,astheyadvanced。Keepingupthechannelofariver,theytraversedtheruggedsummitofthePilotKnobMountain,coveredwithsnownineinchesdeep。Forseveraldaystheycontinued,bendingtheircourseasmuchaspossibletotheeast,overasuccessionofrockyheights,deepvalleys,andrapidstreams。Sometimestheirdizzypathlayalongthemarginofperpendicularprecipices,severalhundredfeetinheight,whereasinglefalsestepmightprecipitatethemintotherockybedofatorrentwhichroaredbelow。Nottheleastpartoftheirwearytaskwasthefordingofthenumerouswindingsandbranchingsofthemountainrivers,allboisterousintheircurrents,andicycold。 Hungerwasaddedtotheirothersufferings,andsoonbecamethekeenest。Thesmallsupplyofbearandelkmeatwhichtheyhadbeenabletocarry,inadditiontotheirpreviousburdens,servedbutforashorttime。Intheiranxietytostruggleforward,theyhadbutlittletimetohunt,andscarceanygameintheirpath。 Forthreedaystheyhadnothingtoeatbutasmallduck,andafewpoortrout。Theyoccasionallysawnumbersoftheantelopes,andtriedeveryarttogetwithinshot;butthetimidanimalsweremorethancommonlywild,andaftertantalizingthehungryhuntersforatime,boundedawaybeyondallchanceofpursuit。Atlengththeywerefortunateenoughtokillone:itwasextremelymeagre,andyieldedbutascantysupply;butonthistheysubsistedforseveraldays。 Onthe11th,theyencampedonasmallstream,nearthefootoftheSpanishRiverMountain。Heretheymetwithtracesofthatwaywardandsolitarybeing,M’Lellan,whowasstillkeepingonaheadofthemthroughtheselonelymountains。Hehadencampedthenightbeforeonthisstream;theyfoundtheembersofthefirebywhichhehadslept,andtheremainsofamiserablewolfonwhichhehadsupped。Itwasevidenthehadsuffered,likethemselves,thepangsofhunger,thoughhehadfaredbetteratthisencampment;fortheyhadnotamouthfultoeat。 Thenextday,theyrosehungryandalert,andsetoutwiththedawntoclimbthemountain,whichwassteepanddifficult。Tracesofvolcaniceruptionsweretobeseeninvariousdirections。 Therewasaspeciesofclayalsotobemetwith,outofwhichtheIndiansmanufacturedpotsandjars,anddishes。Itisveryfineandlight,ofanagreeablesmell,andofabrowncolorspottedwithyellow,anddissolvesreadilyinthemouth。Vesselsmanufacturedofitaresaidtoimpartapleasantsmellandflavortoanyliquids。Thesemountainsaboundalsowithmineralearths,orchalksofvariouscolors;especiallytwokindsofochre,oneapale,theotherabrightred,likevermilion;muchusedbytheIndians,inpaintingtheirbodies。 Aboutnoon,thetravellersreachedthe“drains“andbrooksthatformedtheheadwatersoftheriver,andlaterintheday,descendedtowherethemainbody,ashallowstream,aboutahundredandsixtyyardswide,pouredthroughitsmountainvalley。 Herethepoorfamishingwanderershadexpectedtofindbuffaloinabundance,andhadfedtheirhungryhopesduringtheirscramblingtoll,withthethoughtsofroastedribs,juicyhumps,andbroiledmarrowbones。Totheirgreatdisappointment,theriverbanksweredeserted-afewoldtracksshowedwhereaherdofbullshadsometimebeforepassedalong,butnotahornnorhumpwastobeseeninthesterilelandscape。Afewantelopeslookeddownuponthemfromthebrowofacrag,butflittedawayoutofsightattheleastapproachofthehunter。 Inthemoststarvingmoodtheykeptforseveralmilesfurtheralongthebankoftheriver,seekingfor“beaversigns。”Findingsome,theyencampedinthevicinity,andBenJonesimmediatelyproceededtosetthetrap。Theyhadscarcecometoahalt,whentheyperceivedalargesmokeatsomedistancetothesouthwest。 Thesightwashailedwithjoy,fortheytrusteditmightrisefromsomeIndiancamp,wheretheycouldprocuresomethingtoeat,andthedreadofstarvationhadnowovercomeeventheterroroftheBlackfeet。LeClerc,oneoftheCanadians,wasinstantlydespatchedbyMr。Stuart,toreconnoitre;andthetravellerssatuptillalatehour,watchingandlisteningforhisreturn,hopinghemightbringthemfood。Midnightarrived,butLeClercdidnotmakehisappearance,andtheylaiddownoncemoresupperlesstosleep,comfortingthemselveswiththehopesthattheiroldbeavertrapmightfurnishthemwithabreakfast。 Atdaybreaktheyhastenedwithfamishedeagernesstothetrap。 Theyfoundinittheforepawofabeaver,thesightofwhichtantalizedtheirhunger,andaddedtotheirdejection。Theyresumedtheirjourneywithflaggingspirits,buthadnotgonefarwhentheyperceivedLeClercapproachingatadistance。Theyhastenedtomeethim,inhopesoftidingsofgoodcheer。Hehadnonetogivethem;butnewsofthatstrangewanderer,M’Lellan。 Thesmokehadrisenfromhisencampmentwhichtookfirewhilehewasatalittledistancefromitfishing。LeClercfoundhiminforlorncondition。Hisfishinghadbeenunsuccessful。Duringtwelvedaysthathehadbeenwanderingalonethroughthesesavagemountains,hehadfoundscarceanythingtoeat。Hehadbeenill,wayworn,sickatheart,stillhehadkeptforward;butnowhisstrengthandhisstubbornnesswereexhausted。HeexpressedhissatisfactionathearingthatMr。Stuartandhispartywerenear,andsaidhewouldwaitathiscampfortheirarrival,inhopestheywouldgivehimsomethingtoeat,forwithoutfoodhedeclaredheshouldnotbeabletoproceedmuchfurther。 Whenthepartyreachedtheplace,theyfoundthepoorfellowlyingonaparcelofwitheredgrass,wastedtoaperfectskeleton,andsofeeblethathecouldscarceraisehisheadorspeak。Thepresenceofhisoldcomradesseemedtorevivehim,buttheyhadnofoodtogivehim,fortheythemselveswerealmoststarving。Theyurgedhimtoriseandaccompanythem,butheshookhishead。Itwasallinvain,hesaid;therewasnoprospectoftheirgettingspeedyrelief,andwithoutitheshouldperishbytheway;hemightaswell,therefore,stayanddiewherehewas。 Atlength,aftermuchpersuasion,theygothimuponhislegs;hisrifleandothereffectsweresharedamongthem,andhewascheeredandaidedforward。Inthiswaytheyproceededforseventeenmiles,overalevelplainofsand,untilseeingafewantelopesinthedistance,theyencampedonthemarginofasmallstream。Allnowthatwerecapableoftheexertion,turnedouttohuntforameal。Theireffortswerefruitless,andafterdarktheyreturnedtotheircamp,famishedalmosttodesperation。 Astheywerepreparingforthethirdtimetolaydowntosleepwithoutamouthfultoeat,LeClerc,oneoftheCanadians,gauntandwildwithhunger,approachedMr。Stuartwithhisguninhishand。“Itwasallinvain。”hesaid,“toattempttoproceedanyfurtherwithoutfood。Theyhadabarrenplainbeforethem,threeorfourdays’journeyinextent,onwhichnothingwastobeprocured。Theymustallperishbeforetheycouldgettotheendofit。Itwasbetter,therefore,thatoneshoulddietosavetherest。”Heproposed,therefore,thattheyshouldcastlots; adding,asaninducementforMr。Stuarttoassenttotheproposition,thathe,asleaderoftheparty,shouldbeexempted。 Mr。Stuartshudderedatthehorribleproposition,andendeavoredtoreasonwiththeman,buthiswordswereunavailing。Atlength,snatchinguphisrifle,hethreatenedtoshoothimonthespotifhepersisted。Thefamishedwretchdroppedonhisknees,beggedpardoninthemostabjectterms,andpromisedneveragaintooffendhimwithsuchasuggestion。 Quietbeingrestoredtotheforlornencampment,eachonesoughtrepose。Mr。Stuart,however,wassoexhaustedbytheagitationofthepastscene,actinguponhisemaciatedframe,thathecouldscarcecrawltohismiserablecouch;where,notwithstandinghisfatigues,hepassedasleeplessnight,revolvingupontheirdrearysituation,andthedesperateprospectbeforethem。 Beforedaylightthenextmorning,theywereupandontheirway; theyhadnothingtodetainthem;nobreakfasttoprepare,andtolingerwastoperish。Theyproceeded,however,butslowly,forallwerefaintandweak。Hereandtheretheypassedtheskullsandbonesofbuffaloes,whichshowedthattheseanimalsmusthavebeenhuntedhereduringthepastseason;thesightofthesebonesservedonlytomocktheirmisery。Aftertravellingaboutninemilesalongtheplain,theyascendedarangeofhills,andhadscarcelygonetwomilesfurther,when,totheirgreatjoy,theydiscovered“anoldrun-downbuffalobull;“thelaggardprobablyofsomeherdthathadbeenhuntedandharassedthroughthemountains。Theynowallstretchedthemselvesouttoencompassandmakesureofthissolitaryanimal,fortheirlivesdependedupontheirsuccess。Afterconsiderabletroubleandinfiniteanxiety,theyatlengthsucceededinkillinghim。Hewasinstantlyflayedandcutup,andsoravenouswastheirhunger,thattheydevouredsomeofthefleshraw。Theresiduetheycarriedtoabrooknearby,wheretheyencamped,litafire,andbegantocook。 Mr。Stuartwasfearfulthatintheirfamishedstatetheywouldeattoexcessandinjurethemselves。Hecausedasouptobemadeofsomeofthemeat,andthateachshouldtakeaquantityofitasapreludetohissupper。Thismayhavehadabeneficialeffect,forthoughtheysatupthegreaterpartofthenight,cookingandcramming,noonesufferedanyinconvenience。 Thenextmorningthefeastingwasresumed,andaboutmidday,feelingsomewhatrecruitedandrefreshed,theysetoutontheirjourneywithrenovatedspirits,shapingtheircoursetowardsamountain,thesummitofwhichtheysawtoweringintheeast,andneartowhichtheyexpectedtofindtheheadwatersoftheMissouri。 Astheyproceeded,theycontinuedtoseetheskeletonsofbuffaloesscatteredabouttheplainineverydirection,whichshowedthattherehadbeenmuchhuntingherebytheIndiansintherecentseason。FurtherontheycrossedalargeIndiantrailformingadeeppath,aboutfifteendaysold,whichwentinanorthdirection。TheyconcludedittohavebeenmadebysomenumerousbandofCrows,whohadhuntedinthiscountryforthegreaterpartofthesummer。 Onthefollowingdaytheyfordedastreamofconsiderablemagnitude,withbanksclothedwithpinetrees。AmongthesetheyfoundthetracesofalargeIndiancamp,whichhadevidentlybeentheheadquartersofahuntingexpedition,fromthegreatquantitiesofbuffalobonesstrewedabouttheneighborhood。Thecamphadapparentlybeenabandonedaboutamonth。 Inthecentrewasasingularlodgeonehundredandfiftyfeetincircumference,supportedbythetrunksoftwentytrees,abouttwelveinchesindiameterandforty-fourfeetlong。Acrossthesewerelaidbranchesofpineandwillowtrees,soastoyieldatolerableshade。Atthewestend,immediatelyoppositetothedoor,threebodieslayinterredwiththeirfeettowardstheeast。 Attheheadofeachwasabranchofredcedarfirmlyplantedintheground。Atthefootwasalargebuffalo’sskull,paintedblack。Savageornamentsweresuspendedinvariouspartsoftheedifice,andagreatnumberofchildren’smoccasins。Fromthemagnitudeofthisbuilding,andthetimeandlaborthatmusthavebeenexpendedinerectingit,thebodieswhichitcontainedwereprobablythoseofnotedwarriorsandhunters。 Thenextday,October17th,theypassedtwolargetributarystreamsoftheSpanishRiver。TheytooktheirriseintheWindRiverMountains,whichrangedalongtotheeast,stupendouslyhighandrugged,composedofvastmassesofblackrock,almostdestituteofwood,andcoveredinmanyplaceswithsnow。Thisdaytheysawafewbuffalobulls,andsomeantelopes,butcouldnotkillany;andtheirstockofprovisionsbegantogrowscantyaswellaspoor。 Onthe18th,aftercrossingamountainridge,andtraversingaplain,theywadedoneofthebranchesofSpanishRiver,andonascendingitsbank,metwithaboutahundredandthirtySnakeIndians。Theywerefriendlyintheirdemeanor,andconductedthemtotheirencampment,whichwasaboutthreemilesdistant。Itconsistedofaboutfortywigwams,constructedprincipallyofpinebranches。TheSnakes,likemostoftheirnation,wereverypoor; themaraudingCrows,intheirlateexcursionthroughthecountry,hadpickedthisunluckybandtotheverybone,carryingofftheirhorses,severaloftheirsquaws,andmostoftheireffects。Inspiteoftheirpoverty,theywerehospitableintheextreme,andmadethehungrystrangerswelcometotheircabins。Afewtrinketsprocuredfromthemasupplyofbuffalomeat,andofleatherformoccasins,ofwhichthepartyweregreatlyinneed。Themostvaluableprizeobtainedfromthem,however,wasahorse;itwasasorryoldanimalintruth,butitwastheonlyonethatremainedtothepoorfellows,afterthefellswoopoftheCrows;yetthistheywereprevailedupontopartwithtotheirguestsforapistol,anaxe,aknife,andafewothertriflingarticles。 TheyhaddolefulstoriestotelloftheCrows,whowereencampedonariveratnogreatdistancetotheeast,andwereinsuchforcethattheydarednotventuretoseekanysatisfactionfortheiroutrages,ortogetbackahorseorsquaw。TheyendeavoredtoexcitetheindignationoftheirvisitorsbyaccountsofrobberiesandmurderscommittedonlonelywhitehuntersandtrappersbyCrowsandBlackfeet。Someofthesewereexaggerationsoftheoutragesalreadymentioned,sustainedbysomeofthescatteredmembersofMr。Hunt’sexpedition;otherswereinallprobabilitysheerfabrications,towhichtheSnakesseemtohavebeenalittleprone。Mr。Stuartassuredthemthatthedaywasnotfardistantwhenthewhiteswouldmaketheirpowertobefeltthroughoutthatcountry,andtakesignalvengeanceontheperpetratorsofthesemisdeeds。TheSnakesexpressedgreatjoyattheintelligence,andofferedtheirservicestoaidtherighteouscause,brighteningatthethoughtsoftakingthefieldwithsuchpotentallies,anddoubtlessanticipatingtheirturnatstealinghorsesandabductingsquaws。Theiroffers,ofcourse,wereaccepted;thecalumetofpeacewasproduced,andthetwoforlornpowerssmokedeternalfriendshipbetweenthemselves,andvengeanceupontheircommonspoilers,theCrows。 CHAPTERXLVIII。 SpanishRiverScenery-TrailofCrowIndians-ASnow-Storm-A RousingFireandaBuffaloFeast-APlainofSalt-ClimbingaMountain-VolcanicSummit-ExtinguishedCrater-MarineShells-EncampmentonaPrairie-SuccessfulHunting-GoodCheer-RomanticScenery-RockyDefile-FoamingRapids-TheFieryNarrows。 BYsunriseonthefollowingmorning(October19th),thetravellershadloadedtheiroldhorsewithbuffalomeat,sufficientforfivedays’provisions,and,takingleaveoftheirnewallies,thepoor,buthospitableSnakes,setforthinsomewhatbetterspirits,thoughtheincreasingcoldoftheweather,andthesightofthesnowymountainswhichtheyhadyettotraverse,wereenoughtochilltheirveryhearts。ThecountryalongthisbranchoftheSpanishRiver,asfarastheycouldsee,wasperfectlylevel,boundedbyrangesofloftymountains,bothtotheeastandwest。Theyproceededaboutthreemilestothesouth,wheretheycameagainuponthelargetrailofCrowIndians,whichtheyhadcrossedfourdayspreviously,made,nodoubt,bythesamemaraudingbandthathadplunderedtheSnakes; andwhich,accordingtotheaccountofthelatter,wasnowencampedonastreamtotheeastward。Thetrailkeptontothesoutheast,andwassowellbeatenbyhorseandfoot,thattheysupposedatleastahundredlodgeshadpassedalongit。Asitformed,therefore,aconvenienthighway,andraninaproperdirection,theyturnedintoit,anddeterminedtokeepalongitasfarassafetywouldpermit:astheCrowencampmentmustbesomedistanceoff,anditwasnotlikelythosesavageswouldreturnupontheirsteps。Theytravelledforward,therefore,allthatday,inthetrackoftheirdangerouspredecessors,whichledthemacrossmountainstreams,andlongridges,andthroughnarrowvalleys,alltendinggenerallytowardsthesoutheast。Thewindblewcoldlyfromthenortheast,withoccasionalflurriesofsnow,whichmadethemencampearly,ontheshelteredbanksofabrook。 ThetwoCanadians,ValleeandLeClerc,killedayoungbuffalobullintheevening,whichwasingoodcondition,andaffordedthemaplentifulsupplyoffreshbeef。Theyloadedtheirspits,therefore,andcrammedtheircampkettlewithmeat,andwhilethewindwhistled,andthesnowwhirledaroundthem,huddledroundarousingfire,baskedinitswarmth,andcomfortedbothsoulandbodywithaheartyandinvigoratingmeal。Noenjoymentshavegreaterzestthanthese,snatchedintheverymidstofdifficultyanddanger;anditisprobablethepoorwaywornandweather- beatentravellersrelishedthesecreaturecomfortsthemorehighlyfromthesurroundingdesolation,andthedangerousproximityoftheCrows。 Thesnowwhichhadfalleninthenightmadeitlateinthemorningbeforethepartyloadedtheirsolitarypackhorse,andresumedtheirmarch。TheyhadnotgonefarbeforetheCrowtracewhichtheywerefollowingchangeditsdirection,andboretothenorthofeast。Theyhadalreadybeguntofeelthemselvesondangerousgroundinkeepingalongit,astheymightbedescriedbysomescoutsandspiesofthatraceofIshmaelites,whosepredatoryliferequiredthemtobeconstantlyonthealert。Onseeingthetraceturnsomuchtothenorth,therefore,theyabandonedit,andkeptontheircoursetothesoutheastforeighteenmiles,throughabeautifullyundulatingcountry,havingthemainchainofmountainsontheleft,andaconsiderablyelevatedridgeontheright。HerethemountainridgewhichdividesWindRiverfromtheheadwatersoftheColumbiaandSpanishRivers,endsabruptly,andwindingtothenorthofeast,becomesthedividingbarrierbetweenabranchoftheBigHornandCheyenneRivers,andthoseheadwaterswhichflowintotheMissouribelowtheSiouxcountry。 Theridgewhichlayontherightofthetravellershavingnowbecomeverylow,theypassedoverit,andcameintoalevelplain,abouttenmilesincircumference,andincrustedtothedepthofafootoreighteenincheswithsaltaswhiteassnow。 Thisisfurnishedbynumeroussaltspringsoflimpidwater,whicharecontinuallywellingup,overflowingtheirborders,andformingbeautifulcrystallizations。TheIndiantribesoftheinteriorareexcessivelyfondofthissalt,andrepairtothevalleytocollectit,butitisheldindistastebythetribesofthesea-coast,whowilleatnothingthathasbeencuredorseasonedbyit。 Thiseveningtheyencampedonthebanksofasmallstream,intheopenprairie。Thenortheastwindwaskeenandcutting;theyhadnothingwherewithtomakeafire,butascantygrowthofsage,orwormwood,andwerefaintowrapthemselvesupintheirblankets,andhuddlethemselvesintheir“nests。”atanearlyhour。Inthecourseoftheevening,Mr。M’Lellan,whohadnowregainedhisstrength,killedabuffalo,butitwassomedistancefromthecamp,andtheypostponedsupplyingthemselvesfromthecarcassuntilthefollowingmorning。 Thenextday(October21st),thecoldcontinued,accompaniedbysnow。Theysetforwardontheirbleakandtoilsomeway,keepingtotheeastnortheast,towardstheloftysummitofamountain,whichitwasnecessaryforthemtocross。Beforetheyreacheditsbasetheypassedanotherlargetrail,steeringalittletotherightofthepointofthemountain。ThistheypresumedtohavebeenmadebyanotherbandofCrows,whohadprobablybeenhuntinglowerdownontheSpanishRiver。 Theseverityoftheweathercompelledthemtoencampattheendoffifteenmiles,ontheskirtsofthemountain,wheretheyfoundsufficientdryaspentreestosupplythemwithfire,buttheysoughtinvainabouttheneighborhoodforaspringorrillofwater。 Atdaybreaktheywereupandonthemarch,scramblingupthemountainsideforthedistanceofeightpainfulmiles。FromthecasualhintsgiveninthetravellingmemorandaofMr。Stuart,thismountainwouldseemtoofferarichfieldofspeculationforthegeologist。Herewasaplainthreemilesindiameter,strewedwithpumicestonesandothervolcanicreliques,withalakeinthecentre,occupyingwhathadprobablybeenthecrater。Herewerealso,insomeplaces,depositsofmarineshells,indicatingthatthismountaincresthadatsomeremoteperiodbeenbelowthewaves。 Afterpausingtorepose,andtoenjoythesegrandbutsavageandawfulscenes,theybegantodescendtheeasternsideofthemountain。Thedescentwasruggedandromantic,alongdeepravinesanddefiles,overhungwithcragsandcliffs,amongwhichtheybeheldnumbersoftheahsahtaorbighorn,skippingfearlesslyfromrocktorock。Twoofthemtheysucceededinbringingdownwiththeirrifles,astheypeeredfearlesslyfromthebrowoftheirairyprecipices。 Arrivedatthefootofthemountain,thetravellersfoundarillofwateroozingoutoftheearth,andresemblinginlookandtaste,thewateroftheMissouri。Heretheyencampedforthenight,andsuppedsumptuouslyupontheirmountainmutton,whichtheyfoundingoodcondition,andextremelywelltasted。 Themorningwasbright,andintenselycold。Earlyinthedaytheycameuponastreamrunningtotheeast,betweenlowhillsofbluishearth,stronglyimpregnatedwithcopperas。Mr。StuartsupposedthistobeoneoftheheadwatersoftheMissouri,anddeterminedtofollowitsbanks。Afteramarchoftwenty-sixmiles,however,hearrivedatthesummitofahill,theprospectofwhichinducedhimtoalterhisintention。Hebeheld,ineverydirectionsouthofeast,avastplain,boundedonlybythehorizon,throughwhichwanderedthestreaminquestion,inasouth-south-eastdirection。Itcouldnot,therefore,beabranchoftheMissouri。Henowgaveupallideaoftakingthestreamforhisguide,andshapedhiscoursetowardsarangeofmountainsintheeast,aboutsixtymilesdistant,nearwhichhehopedtofindanotherstream。 Theweatherwasnowsosevere,andthehardshipsoftravellingsogreat,thatheresolvedtohaltforthewinter,atthefirsteligibleplace。Thatnighttheyhadtoencampontheopenprairie,nearascantypoolofwater,andwithoutanywoodtomakeafire。Thenortheastwindblewkeenlyacrossthenakedwaste,andtheywerefaintodecampfromtheirinhospitablebivouacbeforethedawn。 Fortwodaystheykeptoninaneastwarddirection,againstwintryblastsandoccasionalsnowstorms。Theysuffered,also,fromscarcityofwater,havingoccasionallytousemeltedsnow; this,withthewantofpasturage,reducedtheiroldpack-horsesadly。Theysawmanytracksofbuffalo,andsomefewbulls,which,however,gotthewindofthem,andscamperedoff。 Onthe26thofOctober,theysteeredeast-northeast,forawoodedravineinamountain,atasmalldistancefromthebaseofwhich,totheirgreatjoy,theydiscoveredanabundantstream,runningbetweenwillowedbanks。Heretheyhaltedforthenight,andBenJoneshavingluckilytrappedabeaver,andkilledtwobuffalobulls,theyremainedallthenextdayencamped,feastingandreposing,andallowingtheirjadedhorsetorestfromhislabors。 Thelittlestreamonwhichtheywereencamped,wasoneoftheheadwatersofthePlatteRiver,whichflowsintotheMissouri; itwas,infact,thenorthernfork,orbranchofthatriver,thoughthisthetravellersdidnotdiscoveruntillongafterwards。Pursuingthecourseofthisstreamforabouttwentymiles,theycametowhereitforcedapassagethrougharangeofhighhills,coveredwithcedars,intoanextensivelowcountry,affordingexcellentpasturetonumerousherdsofbuffalo。Heretheykilledthreecows,whichwerethefirsttheyhadbeenabletoget,havinghithertohadtocontentthemselveswithbullbeef,whichatthisseasonoftheyearisverypoor。Thehumpmeataffordedthemarepastfitforanepicure。 Lateontheafternoonofthe30th,theycametowherethestream,nowincreasedtoaconsiderablesize,pouredalonginaravinebetweenprecipicesofredstone,twohundredfeetinheight。Forsomedistanceitdashedalong,overhugemassesofrock,withfoamingviolence,asifexasperatedbybeingcompressedintosonarrowachannel,andatlengthleapeddownachasmthatlookeddarkandfrightfulinthegatheringtwilight。 Forapartofthenextday,thewildriver,initscapriciouswanderings,ledthemthroughavarietyofstrikingscenes。Atonetimetheywereuponhighplains,likeplatformsamongthemountains,withherdsofbuffaloesroamingaboutthem;atanotheramongruderockydefiles,brokenintocliffsandprecipices,wheretheblacktaileddeerboundedoffamongthecrags,andthebighornbaskedinthesunnybrowoftheprecipice。 Intheafterpartoftheday,theycametoanotherscene,surpassinginsavagegrandeurthosealreadydescribed。Theyhadbeentravellingforsomedistancethroughapassofthemountains,keepingparallelwiththeriver,asitroaredalong,outofsight,throughadeepravine。Sometimestheirdeviouspathapproachedthemarginofcliffsbelowwhichtheriverfoamed,andboiled,andwhirledamongthemassesofrockthathadfallenintoitschannel。Astheycreptcautiouslyon,leadingtheirsolitarypack-horsealongthesegiddyheights,theyallatoncecametowheretheriverthundereddownasuccessionofprecipices,throwingupcloudsofspray,andmakingaprodigiousdinanduproar。Thetravellersremained,foratime,gazingwithmingledaweanddelight,atthisfuriouscataract,towhichMr。Stuartgave,fromthecoloroftheimpendingrocks,thenameof“TheFieryNarrows。” CHAPTERXLIX。 WintryStorms-AHaltandCouncil-CantonmentfortheWinter- FineHuntingCountry-GameoftheMountainsandPlains- SuccessfulHunting-Mr。CrooksandaGrizzlyBear-TheWigwam- BighornandBlack-Tails-BeefandVenison-GoodQuartersandGoodCheer-AnAlarm-AnIntrusion-UnwelcomeGuests- DesolationoftheLarder-GormandizingExploitsofHungrySavages-GoodQuartersAbandoned。 THEtravellersencampedforthenightonthebanksoftheriverbelowthecataract。Thenightwascold,withpartialshowersofrainandsleet。Themorningdawnedgloomily,theskiesweresullenandovercast,andthreatenedfurtherstorms;butthelittlebandresumedtheirjourney,indefianceoftheweather。 Theincreasingrigoroftheseason,however,whichmakesitselffeltearlyinthesemountainousregions,andonthesenakedandelevatedplains,broughtthemtoapause,andaseriousdeliberation,aftertheyhaddescendedaboutthirtymilesfurtheralongthecourseoftheriver。 Allwereconvincedthatitwasinvaintoattempttoaccomplishtheirjourney,onfoot,atthisinclementseason。TheyhadstillmanyhundredmilestotraversebeforetheyshouldreachthemaincourseoftheMissouri,andtheirroutewouldlayoverimmenseprairies,nakedandbleak,anddestituteoffuel。Thequestionthenwas,wheretochoosetheirwinteringplace,andwhetherornottoproceedfurtherdowntheriver。Theyhadatfirstimaginedittobeoneoftheheadwaters,ortributarystreams,oftheMissouri。AfterwardstheyhadbelievedittobetheRapid,orQuicourtRiver,inwhichopiniontheyhadnotcomenearertothetruth;theynow,however,werepersuaded,withequalfallacy,byitsincliningsomewhattothenorthofeast,thatitwastheCheyenne。Ifso,bycontinuingdownitmuchfurthertheymustarriveamongtheIndians,fromwhomtherivertakesitsname。 AmongthesetheywouldbesuretomeetsomeoftheSiouxtribe。 Thesewouldappraisetheirrelatives,thepiraticalSiouxoftheMissouri,oftheapproachofabandofwhitetraders;sothat,inthespringtime,theywouldbelikelytobewaylaidandrobbedontheirwaydowntheriver,bysomepartyinambushuponitsbanks。 EvenshouldthisprovetobetheQuicourtorRapidRiver,itwouldnotbeprudenttowintermuchfurtherdownuponitsbanks,as,thoughtheymightbeoutoftherangeoftheSioux,theywouldbeintheneighborhoodofthePoncas,atribenearlyasdangerous。Itwasresolved,therefore,sincetheymustwintersomewhereonthissideoftheMissouri,todescendnolower,buttokeepupinthesesolitaryregions,wheretheywouldbeinnodangerofmolestation。 Theywerebroughtthemorepromptlyandunanimouslytothisdecision,bycominguponanexcellentwinteringplace,thatpromisedeverythingrequisitefortheircomfort。Itwasonafinebendoftheriver,justbelowwhereitissuedoutfromamongaridgeofmountains,andbenttowardsthenortheast。Herewasabeautifullowpointofland,coveredbycotton-wood,andsurroundedbyathickgrowthofwillow,soastoyieldbothshelterandfuel,aswellasmaterialsforbuilding。Theriversweptbyinastrongcurrent,aboutahundredandfiftyyardswide。Tothesoutheastweremountainsofmoderateheight,thenearestabouttwomilesoff,butthewholechainrangingtotheeast,south,andsouthwest,asfarastheeyecouldreach。Theirsummitswerecrownedwithextensivetractsofpitchpine,checkeredwithsmallpatchesofthequiveringaspen。Lowerdownwerethickforestsoffirsandredcedars,growingoutinmanyplacesfromtheveryfissuresoftherocks。Themountainswerebrokenandprecipitous,withhugebluffsprotrudingfromamongtheforests。 Theirrockyrecessesandbeetlingcliffsaffordedretreatstoinnumerableflocksofthebighorn,whiletheirwoodysummitsandravinesaboundedwithbearsandblack-taileddeer。These,withthenumerousherdsofbuffalothatrangedthelowergroundsalongtheriver,promisedthetravellersabundantcheerintheirwinterquarters。 Onthe2dofNovember,therefore,theypitchedtheircampforthewinter,onthewoodypoint,andtheirfirstthoughtwastoobtainasupplyofprovisions。BenJonesandthetwoCanadiansaccordinglysalliedforth,accompaniedbytwoothersoftheparty,leavingbutonetowatchthecamp。Theirhuntingwasuncommonlysuccessful。Inthecourseoftwodays,theykilledthirty-twobuffaloes,andcollectedtheirmeatonthemarginofasmallbrook,aboutamiledistant。Fortunately,aseverefrostfrozetheriver,sothatthemeatwaseasilytransportedtotheencampment。Onasucceedingday,aherdofbuffalocametramplingthroughthewoodybottomontheriverbanks,andfifteenmorewerekilled。 Itwassoondiscovered,however,thattherewasgameofamoredangerousnatureintheneighborhood。Ononeoccasion,Mr。Crookshadwanderedaboutamilefromthecamp,andhadascendedasmallhillcommandingaviewoftheriver。Hewaswithouthisrifle,ararecircumstance,forinthesewildregions,whereonemayputupawildanimal,orawildIndian,ateveryturn,itiscustomarynevertostirfromthecamp-fireunarmed。Thehillwherehestoodoverlookedtheplacewherethemassacreofthebuffalohadtakenplace。Ashewaslookingaroundontheprospect,hiseyewascaughtbyanobjectbelow,movingdirectlytowardshim。Tohisdismay,hediscoveredittobeagrizzlybear,withtwocubs。Therewasnotreeathandintowhichhecouldclimb;torun,wouldonlybetoprovokepursuit,andheshouldsoonbeovertaken。Hethrewhimselfontheground,therefore,andlaymotionless,watchingthemovementsoftheanimalwithintenseanxiety。Itcontinuedtoadvanceuntilatthefootofthehill,whenitturned,andmadeintothewoods,havingprobablygorgeditselfwithbuffaloflesh。Mr。Crooksmadeallhastebacktothecamp,rejoicingathisescape,anddeterminingnevertostiroutagainwithouthisrifle。Afewdaysafterthiscircumstance,agrizzlybearwasshotintheneighborhoodbyMr。 Miller。 Astheslaughterofsomanybuffaloeshadprovidedthepartywithbeefforthewinter,incasetheymetwithnofurthersupply,theynowsettowork,heartandhand,tobuildacomfortablewigwam。Inalittlewhilethewoodypromontoryrangwiththeunwontedsoundoftheaxe。Someofitsloftytreeswerelaidlow,andbythesecondeveningthecabinwascomplete。Itwaseightfeetwide,andeighteenfeetlong。Thewallsweresixfeethigh,andthewholewascoveredwithbuffaloskins。Thefireplacewasinthecentre,andthesmokefounditswayoutbyaholeintheroof。 Thehunterswerenextsentouttoprocuredeer-skinsforgarments,moccasins,andotherpurposes。Theymadethemountainsechowiththeirrifles,and,inthecourseoftwodays’hunting,killedtwenty-eightbighornsandblack-taileddeer。 Thepartynowreveledinabundance。Afterallthattheyhadsufferedfromhunger,cold,fatigueandwatchfulness;afteralltheirperilsfromtreacherousandsavagemen,theyexultedinthesnugnessandsecurityoftheirisolatedcabin,hidden,astheythought,evenfromthepryingeyesofIndianscouts,andstoredwithcreaturecomforts;andtheylookedforwardtoawinterofpeaceandquietness,ofroasting,andboiling,andbroiling,andfeastinguponvenison,andmountainmutton,andbear’smeat,andmarrowbones,andbuffalohumps,andotherhunter’sdainties,andofdozingandreposingroundtheirfire,andgossipingoverpastdangersandadventures,andtellinglonghuntingstories,untilspringshouldreturn;whentheywouldmakecanoesofbuffaloskinsandfloatthemselvesdowntheriver。 Fromsuchhalcyondreams,theywerestartledonemorning,atdaybreak,byasavageyell。Theystartedtipandseizedtheirrifles。Theyellwasrepeatedbytwoorthreevoices。Cautiouslypeepingout,theybeheld,totheirdismay,severalIndianwarriorsamongthetrees,allarmedandpaintedinwarlikestyle; beingevidentlybentonsomehostilepurpose。 Millerchangedcountenanceasheregardedthem。“Weareintrouble。”saidhe,“thesearesomeoftherascallyArapahaysthatrobbedmelastyear。”Notawordwasutteredbytherestoftheparty,buttheysilentlyslungtheirpowderhornsandballpouches,andpreparedforbattle。M’Lellan,whohadtakenhisguntopiecestheeveningbefore,putittogetherinallhaste。Heproposedthattheyshouldbreakouttheclayfrombetweenthelogs,soastobeabletofireupontheenemy。 “Notyet。”repliedStuart;“itwillnotdotoshowfearordistrust;wemustfirstholdaparley。Someonemustgooutandmeetthemasafriend。” Whowastoundertakethetask!Itwasfullofperil,astheenvoymightbeshotdownatthethreshold。 “Theleaderofaparty。”saidMiller,“alwaystakestheadvance。” “Good!“repliedStuart;“Iamready。”Heimmediatelywentforth; oneoftheCanadiansfollowedhim;therestofthepartyremainedinthegarrison,tokeepthesavagesincheck。 Stuartadvancedholdinghisrifleinonehand,andextendingtheothertothesavagethatappearedtobethechief。Thelattersteppedforwardandtookit;hismenfollowedhisexample,andallshookhandswithStuart,intokenoffriendship。Theynowexplainedtheirerrand。TheywereawarpartyofArapahaybraves。 Theirvillagelayonastreamseveraldays’journeytotheeastward。Ithadbeenattackedandravagedduringtheirabsence,byabandofCrows,whohadcarriedoffseveraloftheirwomen,andmostoftheirhorses。Theywereinquestofvengeance。ForsixteendaystheyhadbeentrackingtheCrowsaboutthemountains,buthadnotyetcomeuponthem。Inthemeantime,theyhadmetwithscarcelyanygame,andwerehalffamished。Abouttwodayspreviously,theyhadheardthereportoffire-armsamongthemountains,andonsearchinginthedirectionofthesound,hadcometoaplacewhereadeerhadbeenkilled。Theyhadimmediatelyputthemselvesuponthetrackofthehunters,andbyfollowingitup,hadarrivedatthecabin。 Mr。Stuartnowinvitedthechiefandanother,whoappearedtobehislieutenant,intothehut,butmadesignsthatnooneelsewastoenter。Theresthaltedatthedoor;otherscamestragglingup,untilthewholeparty,tothenumberoftwenty-three,,weregatheredbeforethehut。Theywerearmedwithbowsandarrows,tomahawksandscalpingknives,andsomefewwithguns。Allwerepaintedanddressedforwar,andhadawildandfierceappearance。Mr。Millerrecognizedamongthemsomeoftheveryfellowswhohadrobbedhimintheprecedingyear;andputhiscomradesupontheirguard。Everymanstoodreadytoresistthefirstactofhostility;thesavages,however,conductedthemselvespeaceably,andshowednoneofthatswaggeringarrogancewhichawarpartyisapttoassume。 Onenteringthehutthechiefandhislieutenantcastawistfullookattherafters,ladenwithvenisonandbuffalomeat。Mr。 Stuartmadeameritofnecessity,andinvitedthemtohelpthemselves。Theydidnotwaittobepressed。Theraftersweresooneasedoftheirburden;venisonandbeefwerepassedouttothecrewbeforethedoor,andasceneofgormandizingcommenced,ofwhichfewcanhaveanidea,whohavenotwitnessedthegastronomicpowersofanIndian,afteranintervaloffasting。 Thiswaskeptupthroughouttheday;theypausednowandthen,itistrue,forabriefinterval,butonlytoreturntothechargewithrenewedardor。Thechiefandthelieutenantsurpassedalltherestinthevigorandperseveranceoftheirattacks;asiffromtheirstationtheywereboundtosignalizethemselvesinallonslaughts。Mr。Stuartkeptthemwellsuppliedwithchoicebits,foritwashispolicytooverfeedthem,andkeepthemfromleavingthehut,wheretheyservedashostagesforthegoodconductoftheirfollowers。Once,only,inthecourseoftheday,didthechiefsallyforth。Mr。Stuartandoneofhismenaccompaniedhim,armedwiththeirrifles,butwithoutbetrayinganydistrust。Thechieftainsoonreturned,andrenewedhisattackuponthelarder。Inaword,heandhisworthycoadjutor,thelieutenant,ateuntiltheywerebothstupefied。 TowardseveningtheIndiansmadetheirpreparationsforthenightaccordingtothepracticeofwarparties。Thoseoutsideofthehutthrewuptwobreastworks,intowhichtheyretiredatatolerablyearlyhour,andsleptlikeoverfedhounds。Astothechiefandhislieutenant,theypassedthenightinthehut,inthecourseofwhich,they,twoorthreetimes,gotuptoeat。Thetravellerstookturns,oneatatime,tomountguarduntilthemorning。 Scarcehadthedaydawned,whenthegormandizingwasrenewedbythewholeband,andcarriedonwithsurprisingvigoruntilteno’clock,whenallpreparedtodepart。Theyhadsixdays’journeyyettomake,theysaid,beforetheyshouldcomeupwiththeCrows,who,theyunderstood,wereencampedonarivertothenorthward。Theirwaylaythroughahungrycountry,wheretherewasnogame;theywould,moreover,havebutlittletimetohunt; they,therefore,cravedasmallsupplyofprovisionsfortheirjourney。Mr。Stuartagaininvitedthemtohelpthemselves。Theydidsowithkeenforethought,loadingthemselveswiththechoicestpartsofthemeat,andleavingthelateplenteouslarderfargoneinaconsumption。Theirnextrequestwasforasupplyofammunition,havingguns,butnopowderandball。Theypromisedtopaymagnificentlyoutofthespoilsoftheirforay。“Wearepoornow。”saidthey,“andareobligedtogoonfoot,butweshallsooncomebackladenwithbooty,andallmountedonhorseback,withscalpshangingatourbridles。Wewillthengiveeachofyouahorsetokeepyoufrombeingtiredonyourjourney。” “Well。”saidMr。Stuart,“whenyoubringthehorses,youshallhavetheammunition,butnotbefore。”TheIndianssawbyhisdeterminedtone,thatallfurtherentreatywouldbeunavailing,sotheydesisted,withagood-humoredlaugh,andwentoffexceedinglywellfreighted,bothwithinandwithout,promisingtobebackagaininthecourseofafortnight。 Nosoonerweretheyoutofhearing,thanthelucklesstravellersheldanothercouncil。Thesecurityoftheircabinwasatanendandwithitalltheirdreamsofaquietandcozywinter。Theywerebetweentwofires。Ononesideweretheiroldenemies,theCrows;ontheotherside,theArapahays,nolessdangerousfreebooters。Astothemoderationofthiswarparty,theyconsidereditassumed,toputthemofftheirguardagainstsomemorefavorableopportunityforasurprisal。Itwasdetermined,therefore,nottoawaittheirreturn,buttoabandon,withallspeed,thisdangerousneighborhood。Fromtheaccountsoftheirrecentvisitors,theywereledtobelieve,thougherroneously,thattheywereupontheQuicourt,orRapidRiver。TheyproposednowtokeepalongittoitsconfluencewiththeMissouri;but,shouldtheybepreventedbytherigorsoftheseasonfromproceedingsofar,atleasttoreachapartoftheriverwheretheymightbeabletoconstructcanoesofgreaterstrengthanddurabilitythanthoseofbuffaloskins。 Accordingly,onthe13thofDecember,theybadeadieu,withmanyaregret,totheircomfortablequarterswhereforfiveweekstheyhadbeenindulgingthesweetsofrepose,ofplenty,andoffanciedsecurity。Theywerestillaccompaniedbytheirveteranpack-horse,whichtheArapahayshadomittedtosteal,eitherbecausetheyintendedtostealhimontheirreturn,orbecausetheythoughthimnotworthstealing。 CHAPTERL。 RoughWintryTravelling-HillsandPlains-SnowandIce- DisappearanceofGame-AVastDrearyPlain-A。SecondHaltfortheWinter-AnotherWigwam-NewYear’sFeast-BuffaloHumps,Tongues,andMarrow-Bones-ReturnofSpring-LaunchofCanoes- BadNavigation-PedestrianMarch-VastPrairies-DesertedCamps-PawneeSquaws-AnOttoIndian-NewsofWar-VoyageDownthePlatteandtheMissouri-ReceptionatFortOsage- ArrivalatSt。Louis。 THEintervalofcomfortandreposewhichthepartyhadenjoyedintheirwigwam,renderedtherenewaloftheirfatiguesintolerableforthefirsttwoorthreedays。Thesnowlaydeep,andwasslightlyfrozenonthesurface,butnotsufficientlytobeartheirweight。Theirfeetbecamesorebybreakingthroughthecrust,andtheirlimbswearybyflounderingonwithoutfirmfoothold。Soexhaustedanddispiritedwerethey,thattheybegantothinkitwouldbebettertoremainandruntheriskofbeingkilledbytheIndians,thantodragonthuspainfully,withtheprobabilityofperishingbytheway。Theirmiserablehorsefarednobetterthanthemselves,havingforthefirstdayortwonootherfodderthantheendsofwillowtwigs,andthebarkofthecotton-woodtree。 Theyall,however,appearedtogainpatienceandhardihoodastheyproceeded,andforfourteendayskeptsteadilyon,makingadistanceofaboutthreehundredandthirtymiles。Forsomedays,therangeofmountainswhichhadbeenneartotheirwigwamkeptparalleltotheriveratnogreatdistance,butatlengthsubsidedintohills。Sometimestheyfoundtheriverborderedwithalluvialbottoms,andgroveswithcotton-woodandwillows; sometimestheadjacentcountrywasnakedandbarren。Inoneplaceitranforaconsiderabledistancebetweenrockyhillsandpromontoriescoveredwithcedarandpitchpines,andpeopledwiththebighornandthemountaindeer;atotherplacesitwanderedthroughprairieswellstockedwithbuffaloesandantelopes。Astheydescendedthecourseoftheriver,theybegantoperceivetheashandwhiteoakhereandthereamongthecotton-woodandwillow;andatlengthcaughtasightofsomewildhorsesonthedistantprairies。 Theweatherwasvarious;atonetimethesnowlaydeep;thentheyhadagenialdayortwo,withthemildnessandserenityofautumn;then,again,thefrostwassoseverethattheriverwassufficientlyfrozentobearthemupontheice。 Duringthelastthreedaysoftheirfortnight’stravel,however,thefaceofthecountrychanged。Thetimbergraduallydiminished,untiltheycouldscarcelyfindfuelsufficientforculinarypurposes。Thegamegrewmoreandmorescanty,and,finally,noneweretobeseenbutafewmiserablebroken-downbuffalobulls,notworthkilling。Thesnowlayfifteeninchesdeep,andmadethetravellinggrievouslypainfulandtoilsome。Atlengththeycametoanimmenseplain,wherenovestigeoftimberwastobeseen; norasinglequadrupedtoenliventhedesolatelandscape。Here,then,theirheartsfailedthem,andtheyheldanotherconsultation。Thewidthoftheriver,whichwasupwardsofamile,itsextremeshallowness,thefrequencyofquicksands,andvariousothercharacteristics,hadatlengthmadethemsensibleoftheirerrorswithrespecttoit,andtheynowcametothecorrectconclusion,thattheywereonthebanksofthePlatteorShallowRiver。Whatweretheytodo?PursueitscoursetotheMissouri?Togoonatthisseasonoftheyearseemeddangerousintheextreme。Therewasnoprospectofobtainingeitherfoodorfiring。Thecountrywasdestituteoftrees,andthoughtheremightbedrift-woodalongtheriver,itlaytoodeepbeneaththesnowforthemtofindit。 Theweatherwasthreateningachange,andasnowstormontheseboundlesswastesmightproveasfatalasawhirlwindofsandonanArabiandesert。Aftermuchdrearydeliberation,itwasatlengthdeterminedtoretracetheirthreelastdays’journeyofseventy-sevenmiles,toaplacewhichtheyhadremarkedwheretherewasashelteringgrowthofforesttrees,andacountryabundantingame。Heretheywouldoncemoresetuptheirwinterquarters,andawaittheopeningofthenavigationtolaunchthemselvesincanoes。 Accordingly,onthe27thofDecember,theyfacedabout,retracedtheirsteps,andonthe30th,regainedthepartoftheriverinquestion。Herethealluvialbottomwasfromonetotwomileswide,andthicklycoveredwithaforestofcotton-woodtrees; whileherdsofbuffalowerescatteredabouttheneighboringprairie,severalofwhichsoonfellbeneaththeirrifles。 Theyencampedonthemarginoftheriver,inagrovewherethereweretreeslargeenoughforcanoes。Heretheyputupashedforimmediateshelter,andimmediatelyproceededtoerectahut。NewYear’sdaydawnedwhen,asyet,butonewalloftheircabinwascompleted;thegenialandjovialday,however,wasnotpermittedtopassuncelebrated,evenbythisweatherbeatencrewofwanderers。Allworkwassuspended,exceptthatofroastingandboiling。Thechoicestofthebuffalomeat,withtongues,andhumps,andmarrow-bones,weredevouredinquantitiesthatwouldastonishanyonethathasnotlivedamonghuntersorIndians;andasanextraregale,havingnotobaccoleft,theycutupanoldtobaccopouch,stillredolentwiththepotentherb,andsmokeditinhonoroftheday。Thusforatime,inpresentrevelry,howeveruncouth,theyforgotallpasttroublesandallanxietiesaboutthefuture,andtheirforlornwigwamechoedtothesoundofgayety。 Thenextdaytheyresumedtheirlabors,andbythe6thofthemonthitwascomplete。Theysoonkilledabundanceofbuffalo,andagainlaidinastockofwinterprovisions。Thepartyweremorefortunateinthis,theirsecondcantonment。ThewinterpassedawaywithoutanyIndianvisitors,andthegamecontinuedtobeplentyintheneighborhood。Theyfelledtwolargetrees,andshapedthemintocanoes;and,asthespringopened,andathawofseveraldays’continuancemeltedtheiceintheriver,theymadeeverypreparationforembarking。Onthe8thofMarchtheylaunchedforthintheircanoes,butsoonfoundthattheriverhadnotdepthsufficientevenforsuchslenderbarks。Itexpandedintoawidebutextremelyshallowstream,withmanysand-bars,andoccasionallyvariouschannels。Theygotoneoftheircanoesafewmilesdownit,withextremedifficulty,sometimeswadinganddraggingitovertheshoals;atlengththeyhadtoabandontheattempt,andtoresumetheirjourneyonfoot,aidedbytheirfaithfuloldpack-horse,whohadrecruitedstrengthduringthereposeofthewinter。 Theweatherdelayedthemforafewdays,havingsuddenlybecomemorerigorousthanithadbeenatanytimeduringthewinter;butonthe20thofMarchtheywereagainontheirjourney。 Intwodaystheyarrivedatthevastnakedprairie,thewintryaspectofwhichhadcausedthem,inDecember,topauseandturnback。Itwasnowclothedintheearlyverdureofspring,andplentifullystockedwithgame。Still,whenobligedtobivouaconitsbaresurface,withoutanyshelter,andbyascantyfireofdrybuffalodung,theyfoundthenightblastspiercingcold。Ononeoccasion,aherdofbuffalostrayingneartheireveningcamp,theykilledthreeofthemmerelyfortheirhides,wherewithtomakeashelterforthenight。 Theycontinuedonforupwardsofahundredmiles;withvastprairiesextendingbeforethemastheyadvanced;sometimesdiversifiedbyundulatinghills,butdestituteoftrees。Inoneplacetheysawagangofsixty-fivewildhorses,butastothebuffaloes,theyseemedabsolutelytocoverthecountry。Wildgeeseabounded,andtheypassedextensiveswampsthatwerealivewithinnumerableflocksofwater-fowl,amongwhichwereafewswans,butanendlessvarietyofducks。 Therivercontinuedawindingcoursetotheeast-north-east,nearlyamileinwidth,buttooshallowtofloatevenanemptycanoe。Thecountryspreadoutintoavastlevelplain,boundedbythehorizonalone,exceptingtothenorth,wherealineofhillsseemedlikealongpromontorystretchingintothebosomoftheocean。Thedrearysamenessoftheprairiewastesbegantogrowextremelyirksome。Thetravellerslongedforthesightofaforest,orgrove,orsingletree,tobreaktheleveluniformity,andbegantonoticeeveryobjectthatgavereasontohopetheyweredrawingtowardstheendofthiswearywilderness。ThustheoccurrenceofaparticularkindofgrasswashailedasaproofthattheycouldnotbefarfromthebottomsoftheMissouri;andtheywererejoicedatputtingupseveralprairiehens,akindofgrouseseldomfoundfarintheinterior。Inpickingupdriftwoodforfuel,also,theyfoundonsomepiecesthemarkofanaxe,whichcausedmuchspeculationastothetimewhenandthepersonsbywhomthetreeshadbeenfelled。Thustheywenton,likesailorsatsea,whoperceiveineveryfloatingweedandwanderingbird,harbingersofthewished-forland。 Bythecloseofthemonththeweatherbecameverymild,and,heavilyburdenedastheywere,theyfoundthenoontidetemperatureuncomfortablywarm。Onthe30th,theycametothreedesertedhuntingcamps,eitherofPawneesorOttoes,aboutwhichwerebuffaloskullsinalldirections;andtheframesonwhichthehideshadbeenstretchedandcured。Theyhadapparentlybeenoccupiedtheprecedingautumn。 Forseveraldaystheykeptpatientlyon,watchingeverysignthatmightgivethemanideaastowheretheywere,andhowneartothebanksoftheMissouri。 Thoughtherewerenumeroustracesofhuntingpartiesandencampments,theywerenotofrecentdate。Thecountryseemeddeserted。TheonlyhumanbeingstheymetwithwerethreePawneesquaws,inahutinthemidstofadesertedcamp。Theirpeoplehadallgonetothesouth,inpursuitofthebuffalo,andhadleftthesepoorwomenbehind,beingtoosickandinfirmtotravel。 ItisacommonpracticewiththePawnees,andprobablywithotherrovingtribes,whendepartingonadistantexpedition,whichwillnotadmitofincumbranceordelay,toleavetheiragedandinfirmwithasupplyofprovisionssufficientforatemporarysubsistence。Whenthisisexhausted,theymustperish;thoughsometimestheirsufferingsareabridgedbyhostileprowlerswhomayvisitthedesertedcamp。 Thepoorsquawsinquestionexpectedsomesuchfateatthehandsofthewhitestrangers,andthoughthelatteraccostedtheminthekindestmanner,andmadethempresentsofdriedbuffalomeat,itwasimpossibletosoothetheiralarm,orgetanyinformationfromthem。 Thefirstlandmarkbywhichthetravellerswereenabledtoconjecturetheirpositionwithanydegreeofconfidence,wasanislandaboutseventymilesinlength,whichtheypresumedtobeGrandIsle。Ifso,theywerewithinonehundredandfortymilesoftheMissouri。Theykepton,therefore,Withrenewedspirit,andattheendofthreedaysmetwithanOttoIndian,bywhomtheywereconfirmedintheirconjecture。Theylearntatthesametimeanotherpieceofinformation,ofanuncomfortablenature。 Accordingtohisaccount,therewaswarbetweentheUnitedStatesandEngland,andinfactithadexistedforawholeyear,duringwhichtimetheyhadbeenbeyondthereachofallknowledgeoftheaffairsofthecivilizedworld。 TheOttoconductedthetravellerstohisvillage,situatedashortdistancefromthebanksofthePlatte。Heretheyweredelightedtomeetwithtwowhitemen,Messrs。DorninandRoi,IndiantradersrecentlyfromSt。Louis。Ofthesetheyhadathousandinquiriestomakeconcerningallaffairs,foreignanddomestic,duringtheiryearofsepultureinthewilderness;andespeciallyabouttheeventsoftheexistingwar。 Theynowpreparedtoabandontheirwearytravelbyland,andtoembarkuponthewater。AbargainwasmadewithMr。Dornin,whoengagedtofurnishthemwithacanoeandprovisionsforthevoyage,inexchangefortheirvenerableandwell-triedfellowtraveller,theoldSnakehorse。 Accordingly,inacoupleofdays,theIndiansemployedbythatgentlemanconstructedforthemacanoetwentyfeetlong,fourfeetwide,andeighteeninchesdeep。Theframewasofpolesandwillowtwigs,onwhichwerestretchedfiveelkandbuffalohides,sewedtogetherwithsinews,andtheseamspayedwithunctuousmud。Inthistheyembarkedatanearlyhouronthe16thofApril,anddrifteddowntenmileswiththestream,whenthewindbeinghightheyencamped,andsettoworktomakeoars,whichtheyhadnotbeenabletoprocureattheIndianvillage。 Oncemoreafloat,theywentmerrilydownthestream,andaftermakingthirty-fivemiles,emergedintothebroadturbidcurrentoftheMissouri。Heretheywerebornealongbrisklybytherapidstream;though,bythetimetheirfragilebarkhadfloatedacoupleofhundredmiles,itsframebegantoshowtheeffectsofthevoyage。Luckilytheycametothedesertedwinteringplaceofsomehuntingparty,wheretheyfoundtwooldwoodencanoes。 Takingpossessionofthelargest,theyagaincommittedthemselvestothecurrent,andafterdroppingdownfifty-fivemilesfurther,arrivedsafelyatFortOsage。 HeretheyfoundLieutenantBrownsonstillincommand;theofficerwhohadgiventheexpeditionahospitablereceptiononitswayuptheriver,eighteenmonthspreviously。Hereceivedthisremnantofthepartywithacordialwelcome,andendeavoredineverywaytopromotetheircomfortandenjoymentduringtheirsojournatthefort。Thegreatestluxurytheymetwithontheirreturntotheabodeofcivilizedman,wasbread,nothavingtastedanyfornearlyayear。 TheirstayatFortOsagewasbutshort。Onre-embarkingtheywerefurnishedwithanamplesupplyofprovisionsbythekindnessofLieutenantBrownson,andperformedtherestoftheirvoyagewithoutadversecircumstance。Onthe30thofApriltheyarrivedinperfecthealthandfinespiritsatSt。Louis,havingbeentenmonthsinperformingthisperilousexpeditionfromAstoria。Theirreturncausedquiteasensationattheplace,bringingthefirstintelligenceofthefortuneofMr。HuntandhispartyintheiradventurousrouteacrosstheRockyMountains,andofthenewestablishmentontheshoresofthePacific。 CHAPTERLI。 AgreementBetweenMr。AstorandtheRussianFurCompany-WarBetweentheUnitedStatesandGreatBritain-InstructionstoCaptainSowleoftheBeaver-FittingOutoftheLark-NewsoftheArrivalofMr。Stuart。 ITisnownecessary,inlinkingtogetherthepartsofthisexcursivenarrative,thatwenoticetheproceedingsofMr。Astorinsupportofhisgreatundertaking。HisprojectwithrespecttotheRussianestablishmentsalongthenorthwestcoasthadbeendiligentlyprosecuted。TheagentsentbyhimtoSt。Petersburg,tonegotiateinhisnameaspresidentoftheAmericanFurCompany,had,undersanctionoftheRussiangovernment,madeaprovisionalagreementwiththeRussiancompany。 Bythisagreement,whichwasratifiedbyMr。Astorin1813,thetwocompaniesboundthemselvesnottointerferewitheachother’stradingandhuntinggrounds,nortofurnisharmsandammunitiontotheIndians。Theyweretoactinconcert,also,againstallinterlopers,andtosuccoreachotherincaseofdanger。TheAmericancompanywastohavetheexclusiverightofsupplyingtheRussianpostswithgoodsandnecessaries,receivingpeltriesinpaymentatstatedprices。Theywerealso,ifsorequestedbytheRussiangovernor,toconveythefursoftheRussiancompanytoCanton,sellthemoncommission,andbringbacktheproceeds,atsuchfreightasmightbeagreedonatthetime。Thisagreementwastocontinueinoperationfouryears,andtoberenewableforasimilarterm,unlesssomeunforeseencontingencyshouldrenderamodificationnecessary。 ItwascalculatedtobeofgreatservicetotheinfantestablishmentatAstoria;dispellingthefearsofhostilerivalryonthepartoftheforeigncompaniesinitsneighborhood,andgivingaformidableblowtotheirregulartradealongthecoast。 ItwasalsotheintentionofMr。Astortohavecoastingvesselsofhisown,atAstoria,ofsmalltonnageanddraftofwater,fittedforcoastingservice。These,havingaplaceofshelteranddeposit,couldplyaboutthecoastinshortvoyages,infavorableweather,andwouldhavevastadvantageoverchanceships,whichmustmakelongvoyages,maintainnumerouscrews,andcouldonlyapproachthecoastatcertainseasonsoftheyear。Hehoped,therefore,graduallytomakeAstoriathegreatemporiumoftheAmericanfurtradeinthePacific,andthenucleusofapowerfulAmericanstate。Unfortunatelyforthesesanguineanticipations,beforeMr。Astorhadratifiedtheagreement,asabovestated,warbrokeoutbetweentheUnitedStatesandGreatBritain。Heperceivedatoncetheperilofthecase。TheharborofNewYorkwoulddoubtlessbeblockaded,andthedepartureoftheannualsupplyshipintheautumnprevented;or,ifsheshouldsucceedingettingouttosea,shemightbecapturedonhervoyage。 Inthisemergency,hewrotetoCaptainSowle,commanderoftheBeaver。Theletter,whichwasaddressedtohimatCanton,directedhimtoproceedtothefactoryatthemouthoftheColumbia,withsucharticlesastheestablishmentmightneed;andtoremainthere,subjecttotheordersofMr。Hunt,shouldthatgentlemanbeincommandthere。 Thewarcontinued。NotidingshadyetbeenreceivedfromAstoria; thedespatcheshavingbeendelayedbythemisadventureofMr。 ReedatthefallsoftheColumbia,andtheunhorsingofMr。 StuartbytheCrowsamongthemountains。Apainfuluncertainty,also,prevailedaboutMr。Huntandhisparty。NothinghadbeenheardofthemsincetheirdeparturefromtheArickaravillage; Lisa,whopartedfromthemthere,hadpredictedtheirdestruction;andsomeofthetradersoftheNorthwestCompanyhadactuallyspreadarumoroftheirhavingbeencutoffbytheIndians。 Itwasahardtrialofthecourageandmeansofanindividualtohavetofitoutanothercostlyexpedition,wheresomuchhadalreadybeenexpended,somuchuncertaintyprevailed,andwheretheriskoflosswassogreatlyenhanced,thatnoinsurancecouldbeeffected。 Inspiteofallthesediscouragements,Mr。Astordeterminedtosendanothershiptothereliefofthesettlement。HeselectedforthispurposeavesselcalledtheLark,remarkableforherfastsailing。Thedisorderedstateofthetimes,however,causedsuchadelay,thatFebruaryarrived,whilethevesselwasyetlingeringinport。 Atthisjuncture,Mr。AstorlearntthattheNorthwestCompanywerepreparingtosendoutanarmedshipoftwentyguns,calledtheIsaacTodd,toformanestablishmentatthemouthoftheColumbia。Thesetidingsgavehimgreatuneasiness。AconsiderableproportionofthepersonsinhisemploywereScotchmenandCanadians,andseveralofthemhadbeenintheserviceoftheNorthwestCompany。ShouldMr。HunthavefailedtoarriveatAstoria,thewholeestablishmentwouldbeunderthecontrolofMr。M’Dougal,ofwhosefidelityhehadreceivedverydisparagingaccountsfromCaptainThorn。TheBritishgovernment,also,mightdeemitworthwhiletosendaforceagainsttheestablishment,havingbeenurgedtodososometimepreviouslybytheNorthwestCompany。 Underallthesecircumstances,Mr。AstorwrotetoMr。Monroe,thensecretaryofstate,requestingprotectionfromthegovernmentoftheUnitedStates。Herepresentedtheimportanceofhissettlement,inacommercialpointofview,andtheshelteritmightaffordtotheAmericanvesselsinthoseseas。AllheaskedwasthattheAmericangovernmentwouldthrowfortyorfiftymenintothefortathisestablishment,whichwouldbesufficientforitsdefenseuntilhecouldsendreinforcementsoverland。 Hewaitedinvainforareplytothisletter,thegovernment,nodoubt,beingengrossedatthetimebyanoverwhelmingcrowdofaffairs。ThemonthofMarcharrived,andtheLarkwasorderedbyMr。Astortoputtosea。Theofficerwhowastocommandhershrunkfromhisengagement,andintheexigencyofthemoment,shewasgiveninchargetoMr。Northrup,themate。Mr。NicholasG。Ogden,agentlemanonwhosetalentsandintegritythehighestreliancecouldbeplaced,sailedassupercargo。TheLarkputtoseainthebeginningofMarch,1813。 Bythisopportunity,Mr。AstorwrotetoMr。Hunt,asheadoftheestablishmentatthemouthoftheColumbia,forhewouldnotallowhimselftodoubtofhiswelfare。“Ialwaysthinkyouarewell。”saidhe,“andthatIshallseeyouagain,whichHeaven,I hope,willgrant。” Hewarnedhimtobeonhisguardagainstanyattemptstosurprisethepost;suggestingtheprobabilityofarmedhostilityonthepartoftheNorthwestCompany,andexpressinghisindignationattheungratefulreturnsmadebythatassociationforhisfrankandopenconduct,andadvantageousovertures。“WereIonthespot。” saidhe,“andhadthemanagementofaffairs,Iwoulddefythemall;but,asitis,everythingdependsuponyouandyourfriendsaboutyou。Ourenterpriseisgrand,anddeservessuccess,andI hopeinGoditwillmeetit。Ifmyobjectwasmerelygainofmoney,Ishouldsay,thinkwhetheritisbesttosavewhatwecan,andabandontheplace;buttheveryideaislikeadaggertomyheart。”ThisextractissufficienttoshowthespiritandtheviewswhichactuatedMr。Astorinthisgreatundertaking。 Weekafterweekandmonthaftermonthelapsed,withoutanythingtodispelthepainfulincertitudethathungovereverypartofthisenterprise。Thoughamanofresolutespirit,andnoteasilycastdown,thedangersimpendingoverthisdarlingschemeofhisambition,hadagradualeffectuponthespiritsofMr。Astor。Hewassittingonegloomyeveningbyhiswindow,revolvingoverthelossoftheTonquinandthefateofherunfortunatecrew,andfearingthatsomeequallytragicalcalamitymighthavebefallentheadventurersacrossthemountains,whentheeveningnewspaperwasbroughttohim。Thefirstparagraphthatcaughthiseye,announcedthearrivalofMr。StuartandhispartyatSt。Louis,withintelligencethatMr。HuntandhiscompanionshadeffectedtheirperilousexpeditiontothemouthoftheColumbia。Thiswasagleamofsunshinethatforatimedispelledeverycloud,andhenowlookedforwardwithsanguinehopetotheaccomplishmentofallhisplans。 CHAPTERLll。 BanksoftheWallah-Wallah-DepartureofDavidStuartfortheOakinagan-Mr。Clarke’sRouteUpLewisRiver-Chipunnish,orPierced-NoseIndians-TheirCharacter,Appearance,andHabits- ThievishHabits-LayingUpoftheBoats-PostatPointedHeartandSpokanRivers-M’Kenzie,HisRouteUptheCamoenum-BandsofTravellingIndians-ExpeditionofReedtotheCaches- AdventuresofWanderingVoyageursandTrappers。 THEcourseofournarrativenowtakesusbacktotheregionsbeyondthemountains,todisposeofthepartiesthatsetoutfromAstoria,incompanywithMr。RobertStuart,andwhomheleftonthebanksoftheWallah-Wallah。Thosepartieslikewiseseparatedfromeachothershortlyafterhisdeparture,proceedingtotheirrespectivedestinations,butagreeingtomeetatthemouthoftheWallah-WallahaboutthebeginningofJuneinthefollowingyear,withsuchpeltriesastheyshouldhavecollectedinthewinter,soastoconvoyeachotherthroughthedangerouspassesoftheColumbia。 Mr。DavidStuart,oneofthepartners,proceededwithhismentothepostalreadyestablishedbyhimatthemouthoftheOakinagan;havingfurnishedthiswithgoodsandammunition,heproceededthreehundredmilesupthatriver,whereheestablishedanotherpostinagoodtradingneighborhood。 Mr。Clarke,anotherpartner,conductedhislittlebandupLewisRivertothemouthofasmallstreamcominginfromthenorth,towhichtheCanadiansgavethenameofthePavion。Herehefoundavillageorencampmentoffortyhutsortents,coveredwithmats,andinhabitedbyNezPerces,orPierced-noseIndians,astheyarecalledbythetraders;butChipunnish,astheyarecalledbythemselves。Theyareahardy,laborious,andsomewhatknavishrace,wholeadaprecariouslife,fishinganddiggingrootsduringthesummerandautumn,huntingthedeeronsnow-shoesduringthewinter,andtraversingtheRockyMountainsinthespring,totradeforbuffaloskinswiththehuntingtribesoftheMissouri。InthesemigrationstheyareliabletobewaylaidandattackedbytheBlackfeet,andotherwarlikeandpredatorytribes,anddrivenbackacrossthemountainswiththelossoftheirhorses,andofmanyoftheircomrades。