were，hasalwaysappearedtomemostmysterious：fromwhatYorksaid，whenwefoundtheplaceliketheformofahare，whereasinglemanhadsleptthenightbefore，Ishouldhavethoughtthattheywerethieveswhohadbeendrivenfromtheirtribes；butotherobscurespeechesmademedoubtthis；Ihavesometimesimaginedthatthemostprobableexplanationwasthattheywereinsane。
Thedifferenttribeshavenogovernmentorchief；yeteachissurroundedbyotherhostiletribes，speakingdifferentdialects，andseparatedfromeachotheronlybyadesertedborderorneutralterritory：thecauseoftheirwarfareappearstobethemeansofsubsistence。Theircountryisabrokenmassofwildrocks，loftyhills，anduselessforests：andtheseareviewedthroughmistsandendlessstorms。Thehabitablelandisreducedtothestonesonthebeach；insearchoffoodtheyarecompelledunceasinglytowanderfromspottospot，andsosteepisthecoast，thattheycanonlymoveaboutintheirwretchedcanoes。Theycannotknowthefeelingofhavingahome，andstilllessthatofdomesticaffection；forthehusbandistothewifeabrutalmastertoalaboriousslave。Wasamorehorriddeedeverperpetrated，thanthatwitnessedonthewestcoastbyByron，whosawawretchedmotherpickupherbleedingdyinginfant-boy，whomherhusbandhadmercilesslydashedonthestonesfordroppingabasketofsea-eggs！
Howlittlecanthehigherpowersofthemindbebroughtintoplay：whatisthereforimaginationtopicture，forreasontocompare，orjudgmenttodecideupon？toknockalimpetfromtherockdoesnotrequireevencunning，thatlowestpowerofthemind。Theirskillinsomerespectsmaybecomparedtotheinstinctofanimals；foritisnotimprovedbyexperience：thecanoe，theirmostingeniouswork，poorasitis，hasremainedthesame，asweknowfromDrake，forthelasttwohundredandfiftyyears。
Whilstbeholdingthesesavages，oneasks，whencehavetheycome？Whatcouldhavetempted，orwhatchangecompelledatribeofmen，toleavethefineregionsofthenorth，totraveldowntheCordilleraorbackboneofAmerica，toinventandbuildcanoes，whicharenotusedbythetribesofChile，Peru，andBrazil，andthentoenterononeofthemostinhospitablecountrieswithinthelimitsoftheglobe？Althoughsuchreflectionsmustatfirstseizeonthemind，yetwemayfeelsurethattheyarepartlyerroneous。
ThereisnoreasontobelievethattheFuegiansdecreaseinnumber；thereforewemustsupposethattheyenjoyasufficientshareofhappiness，ofwhateverkinditmaybe，torenderlifeworthhaving。Naturebymakinghabitomnipotent，anditseffectshereditary，hasfittedtheFuegiantotheclimateandtheproductionsofhismiserablecountry。
AfterhavingbeendetainedsixdaysinWigwamCovebyverybadweather，weputtoseaonthe30thofDecember。CaptainFitzRoywishedtogetwestwardtolandYorkandFuegiaintheirowncountry。Whenatseawehadaconstantsuccessionofgales，andthecurrentwasagainstus：wedriftedto57degs。
23’south。Onthe11thofJanuary，1833，bycarryingapressofsail，wefetchedwithinafewmilesofthegreatruggedmountainofYorkMinster(socalledbyCaptainCook，andtheoriginofthenameoftheelderFuegian)，whenaviolentsquallcompelledustoshortensailandstandouttosea。
Thesurfwasbreakingfearfullyonthecoast，andthespraywascarriedoveracliffestimatedto200feetinheight。Onthe12ththegalewasveryheavy，andwedidnotknowexactlywherewewere：itwasamostunpleasantsoundtohearconstantlyrepeated，“keepagoodlook-outtoleeward。”Onthe13ththestormragedwithitsfullfury：ourhorizonwasnarrowlylimitedbythesheetsofspraybornebythewind。Thesealookedominous，likeadrearywavingplainwithpatchesofdriftedsnow：whilsttheshiplabouredheavily，thealbatrossglidedwithitsexpandedwingsrightupthewind。
Atnoonagreatseabrokeoverus，andfilledoneofthewhaleboats，whichwasobligedtobeinstantlycutaway。ThepoorBeagletrembledattheshock，andforafewminuteswouldnotobeyherhelm；butsoon，likeagoodshipthatshewas，sherightedandcameuptothewindagain。Hadanotherseafollowedthefirst，ourfatewouldhavebeendecidedsoon，andforever。
Wehadnowbeentwenty-fourdaystryinginvaintogetwestward；themenwerewornoutwithfatigue，andtheyhadnothadformanynightsordaysadrythingtoputon。CaptainFitzRoygaveuptheattempttogetwestwardbytheoutsidecoast。IntheeveningweraninbehindFalseCapeHorn，anddroppedouranchorinforty-sevenfathoms，fireflashingfromthewindlassasthechainrushedroundit。Howdelightfulwasthatstillnight，afterhavingbeensolonginvolvedinthedinofthewarringelements！
January15th，1833——TheBeagleanchoredinGoereeRoads。CaptainFitzRoyhavingresolvedtosettletheFuegians，accordingtotheirwishes，inPonsonbySound，fourboatswereequippedtocarrythemtherethroughtheBeagleChannel。Thischannel，whichwasdiscoveredbyCaptainFitzRoyduringthelastvoyage，isamostremarkablefeatureinthegeographyofthis，orindeedofanyothercountry：itmaybecomparedtothevalleyofLochnessinScotland，withitschainoflakesandfriths。Itisaboutonehundredandtwentymileslong，withanaveragebreadth，notsubjecttoanyverygreatvariation，ofabouttwomiles；andisthroughoutthegreaterpartsoperfectlystraight，thattheview，boundedoneachsidebyalineofmountains，graduallybecomesindistinctinthelongdistance。
ItcrossesthesouthernpartofTierradelFuegoinaneastandwestline，andinthemiddleisjoinedatrightanglesonthesouthsidebyanirregularchannel，whichhasbeencalledPonsonbySound。ThisistheresidenceofJemmyButton’stribeandfamily。
19th——Threewhale-boatsandtheyawl，withapartyoftwenty-eight，startedunderthecommandofCaptainFitzRoy。Intheafternoonweenteredtheeasternmouthofthechannel，andshortlyafterwardsfoundasnuglittlecoveconcealedbysomesurroundingislets。Herewepitchedourtentsandlightedourfires。Nothingcouldlookmorecomfortablethanthisscene。
Theglassywaterofthelittleharbour，withthebranchesofthetreeshangingovertherockybeach，theboatsatanchor，thetentssupportedbythecrossedoars，andthesmokecurlingupthewoodedvalley，formedapictureofquietretirement。Thenextday(20th)wesmoothlyglidedonwardsinourlittlefleet，andcametoamoreinhabiteddistrict。Fewifanyofthesenativescouldeverhaveseenawhiteman；certainlynothingcouldexceedtheirastonishmentattheapparitionofthefourboats。Fireswerelightedoneverypoint(hencethenameofTierradelFuego，orthelandoffire)，bothtoattractourattentionandtospreadfarandwidethenews。Someofthemenranformilesalongtheshore。Ishallneverforgethowwildandsavageonegroupappeared：suddenlyfourorfivemencametotheedgeofanoverhangingcliff；theywereabsolutelynaked，andtheirlonghairstreamedabouttheirfaces；theyheldruggedstaffsintheirhands，and，springingfromtheground，theywavedtheirarmsroundtheirheads，andsentforththemosthideousyells。
Atdinner-timewelandedamongapartyofFuegians。Atfirsttheywerenotinclinedtobefriendly；foruntiltheCaptainpulledinaheadoftheotherboats，theykepttheirslingsintheirhands。Wesoon，however，delightedthembytriflingpresents，suchastyingredtaperoundtheirheads。Theylikedourbiscuit：butoneofthesavagestouchedwithhisfingersomeofthemeatpreservedintincaseswhichIwaseating，andfeelingitsoftandcold，showedasmuchdisgustatit，asIshouldhavedoneatputridblubber。Jemmywasthoroughlyashamedofhiscountrymen，anddeclaredhisowntribewerequitedifferent，inwhichhewaswofullymistaken。Itwasaseasytopleaseasitwasdifficulttosatisfythesesavages。Youngandold，menandchildren，neverceasedrepeatingtheword“yammerschooner。”
whichmeans“giveme。”Afterpointingtoalmosteveryobject，oneaftertheother，eventothebuttonsonourcoats，andsayingtheirfavouritewordinasmanyintonationsaspossible，theywouldthenuseitinaneutersense，andvacantlyrepeat“yammerschooner。”Afteryammerschooneringforanyarticleveryeagerly，theywouldbyasimpleartificepointtotheiryoungwomenorlittlechildren，asmuchastosay，“Ifyouwillnotgiveitme，surelyyouwilltosuchasthese。”
Atnightweendeavouredinvaintofindanuninhabitedcove；andatlastwereobligedtobivouacnotfarfromapartyofnatives。Theywereveryinoffensiveaslongastheywerefewinnumbers，butinthemorning(21st)beingjoinedbyotherstheyshowedsymptomsofhostility，andwethoughtthatweshouldhavecometoaskirmish。AnEuropeanlaboursundergreatdisadvantageswhentreatingwithsavageslikethese，whohavenottheleastideaofthepoweroffire-arms。Intheveryactoflevellinghismusketheappearstothesavagefarinferiortoamanarmedwithabowandarrow，aspear，orevenasling。Norisiteasytoteachthemoursuperiorityexceptbystrikingafatalblow。Likewildbeasts，theydonotappeartocomparenumbers；foreachindividual，ifattacked，insteadofretiring，willendeavourtodashyourbrainsoutwithastone，ascertainlyasatigerundersimilarcircumstanceswouldtearyou。CaptainFitzRoyononeoccasionbeingveryanxious，fromgoodreasons，tofrightenawayasmallparty，firstflourishedacutlassnearthem，atwhichtheyonlylaughed；hethentwicefiredhispistolclosetoanative。Themanbothtimeslookedastounded，andcarefullybutquicklyrubbedhishead；hethenstaredawhile，andgabbledtohiscompanions，butheneverseemedtothinkofrunningaway。Wecanhardlyputourselvesinthepositionofthesesavages，andunderstandtheiractions。InthecaseofthisFuegian，thepossibilityofsuchasoundasthereportofagunclosetohisearcouldneverhaveenteredhismind。Heperhapsliterallydidnotforasecondknowwhetheritwasasoundorablow，andthereforeverynaturallyrubbedhishead。
Inasimilarmanner，whenasavageseesamarkstruckbyabullet，itmaybesometimebeforeheisableatalltounderstandhowitiseffected；
forthefactofabodybeinginvisiblefromitsvelocitywouldperhapsbetohimanideatotallyinconceivable。Moreover，theextremeforceofabullet，thatpenetratesahardsubstancewithouttearingit，mayconvincethesavagethatithasnoforceatall。CertainlyIbelievethatmanysavagesofthelowestgrade，suchastheseofTierradelFuego，haveseenobjectsstruck，andevensmallanimalskilledbythemusket，withoutbeingintheleastawarehowdeadlyaninstrumentitis。
22nd——Afterhavingpassedanunmolestednight，inwhatwouldappeartobeneutralterritorybetweenJemmy’stribeandthepeoplewhomwesawyesterday，wesailedpleasantlyalong。Idonotknowanythingwhichshowsmoreclearlythehostilestateofthedifferenttribes，thanthesewideborderorneutraltracts。AlthoughJemmyButtonwellknewtheforceofourparty，hewas，atfirst，unwillingtolandamidstthehostiletribenearesttohisown。HeoftentoldushowthesavageOensmen“whentheleafred。”crossedthemountainsfromtheeasterncoastofTierradelFuego，andmadeinroadsonthenativesofthispartofthecountry。Itwasmostcurioustowatchhimwhenthustalking，andseehiseyesgleamingandhiswholefaceassumeanewandwildexpression。AsweproceededalongtheBeagleChannel，thesceneryassumedapeculiarandverymagnificentcharacter；
buttheeffectwasmuchlessenedfromthelownessofthepointofviewinaboat，andfromlookingalongthevalley，andthuslosingallthebeautyofasuccessionofridges。Themountainswerehereaboutthreethousandfeethigh，andterminatedinsharpandjaggedpoints。Theyroseinoneunbrokensweepfromthewater’sedge，andwerecoveredtotheheightoffourteenorfifteenhundredfeetbythedusky-colouredforest。Itwasmostcurioustoobserve，asfarastheeyecouldrange，howlevelandtrulyhorizontalthelineonthemountainsidewas，atwhichtreesceasedtogrow：itpreciselyresembledthehigh-watermarkofdrift-weedonasea-beach。
AtnightwesleptclosetothejunctionofPonsonbySoundwiththeBeagleChannel。AsmallfamilyofFuegians，whowerelivinginthecove，werequietandinoffensive，andsoonjoinedourpartyroundablazingfire。
Wewerewellclothed，andthoughsittingclosetothefirewerefarfromtoowarm；yetthesenakedsavages，thoughfurtheroff，wereobserved，toourgreatsurprise，tobestreamingwithperspirationatundergoingsucharoasting。Theyseemed，however，verywellpleased，andalljoinedinthechorusoftheseamen’ssongs：butthemannerinwhichtheywereinvariablyalittlebehindhandwasquiteludicrous。
Duringthenightthenewshadspread，andearlyinthemorning(23rd)
afreshpartyarrived，belongingtotheTekenika，orJemmy’stribe。Severalofthemhadrunsofastthattheirnoseswerebleeding，andtheirmouthsfrothedfromtherapiditywithwhichtheytalked；andwiththeirnakedbodiesallbedaubedwithblack，white，[1]andred，theylookedlikesomanydemoniacswhohadbeenfighting。Wethenproceeded(accompaniedbytwelvecanoes，eachholdingfourorfivepeople)downPonsonbySoundtothespotwherepoorJemmyexpectedtofindhismotherandrelatives。
Hehadalreadyheardthathisfatherwasdead；butashehadhada“dreaminhishead“tothateffect，hedidnotseemtocaremuchaboutit，andrepeatedlycomfortedhimselfwiththeverynaturalreflection——“Menohelpit。”Hewasnotabletolearnanyparticularsregardinghisfather’sdeath，ashisrelationswouldnotspeakaboutit。
Jemmywasnowinadistrictwellknowntohim，andguidedtheboatstoaquietprettycovenamedWoollya，surroundedbyislets，everyoneofwhichandeverypointhaditspropernativename。WefoundhereafamilyofJemmy’stribe，butnothisrelations：wemadefriendswiththem；andintheeveningtheysentacanoetoinformJemmy’smotherandbrothers。
