第74章

类别:其他 作者:Charles Darwin字数:6255更新时间:18/12/21 17:23:57
TheextremeuniformityofthevegetationisthemostremarkablefeatureinthelandscapeofthegreaterpartofNewSouthWales。Everywherewehaveanopenwoodland,thegroundbeingpartiallycoveredwithaverythinpasture,withlittleappearanceofverdure。Thetreesnearlyallbelongtoonefamily,andmostlyhavetheirleavesplacedinavertical,insteadofasinEurope,inanearlyhorizontalposition:thefoliageisscanty,andofapeculiarpalegreentint,withoutanygloss。Hencethewoodsappearlightandshadowless:this,althoughalossofcomforttothetravellerunderthescorchingraysofsummer,isofimportancetothefarmer,asitallowsgrasstogrowwhereitotherwisewouldnot。Theleavesarenotshedperiodically:thischaracterappearscommontotheentiresouthernhemisphere,namely,SouthAmerica,Australia,andtheCapeofGoodHope。 Theinhabitantsofthishemisphere,andoftheintertropicalregions,thusloseperhapsoneofthemostglorious,thoughtooureyescommon,spectaclesintheworld——thefirstburstingintofullfoliageoftheleaflesstree。 Theymay,however,saythatwepaydearlyforthisbyhavingthelandcoveredwithmerenakedskeletonsforsomanymonths。Thisistootruebutoursensesthusacquireakeenrelishfortheexquisitegreenofthespring,whichtheeyesofthoselivingwithinthetropics,satedduringthelongyearwiththegorgeousproductionsofthoseglowingclimates,canneverexperience。Thegreaternumberofthetrees,withtheexceptionofsomeoftheBlue-gums,donotattainalargesize;buttheygrowtallandtolerablystraight,andstandwellapart。ThebarkofsomeoftheEucalyptifallsannually,orhangsdeadinlongshredswhichswingaboutwiththewind,andgivetothewoodsadesolateanduntidyappearance。Icannotimagineamorecompletecontrast,ineveryrespect,thanbetweentheforestsofValdiviaorChiloe,andthewoodsofAustralia。 Atsunset,apartyofascoreoftheblackaboriginespassedby,eachcarrying,intheiraccustomedmanner,abundleofspearsandotherweapons。 Bygivingaleadingyoungmanashilling,theywereeasilydetained,andthrewtheirspearsformyamusement。Theywereallpartlyclothed,andseveralcouldspeakalittleEnglish:theircountenancesweregood-humouredandpleasant,andtheyappearedfarfrombeingsuchutterlydegradedbeingsastheyhaveusuallybeenrepresented。Intheirownartstheyareadmirable。 Acapbeingfixedatthirtyyardsdistance,theytransfixeditwithaspear,deliveredbythethrowing-stickwiththerapidityofanarrowfromthebowofapractisedarcher。Intrackinganimalsormentheyshowmostwonderfulsagacity;andIheardofseveraloftheirremarkswhichmanifestedconsiderableacuteness。Theywillnot,however,cultivatetheground,orbuildhousesandremainstationary,oreventakethetroubleoftendingaflockofsheepwhengiventothem。OnthewholetheyappeartometostandsomefewdegreeshigherinthescaleofcivilizationthantheFuegians。 Itisverycuriousthustoseeinthemidstofacivilizedpeople,asetofharmlesssavageswanderingaboutwithoutknowingwheretheyshallsleepatnight,andgainingtheirlivelihoodbyhuntinginthewoods。Asthewhitemanhastravelledonwards,hehasspreadoverthecountrybelongingtoseveraltribes。These,althoughthusenclosedbyonecommonpeople,keepuptheirancientdistinctions,andsometimesgotowarwitheachother。 Inanengagementwhichtookplacelately,thetwopartiesmostsingularlychosethecentreofthevillageofBathurstforthefieldofbattle。Thiswasofservicetothedefeatedside,fortherunawaywarriorstookrefugeinthebarracks。 Thenumberofaboriginesisrapidlydecreasing。Inmywholeride,withtheexceptionofsomeboysbroughtupbyEnglishmen,Isawonlyoneotherparty。Thisdecrease,nodoubt,mustbepartlyowingtotheintroductionofspirits,toEuropeandiseases(eventhemilderonesofwhich,suchasthemeasles,[1]proveverydestructive),andtothegradualextinctionofthewildanimals。Itissaidthatnumbersoftheirchildreninvariablyperishinveryearlyinfancyfromtheeffectsoftheirwanderinglife;andasthedifficultyofprocuringfoodincreases,somusttheirwanderinghabitsincrease;andhencethepopulation,withoutanyapparentdeathsfromfamine,isrepressedinamannerextremelysuddencomparedtowhathappensincivilizedcountries,wherethefather,thoughinaddingtohislabourhemayinjurehimself,doesnotdestroyhisoffspring。 Besidestheseveralevidentcausesofdestruction,thereappearstobesomemoremysteriousagencygenerallyatwork。WherevertheEuropeanhastrod,deathseemstopursuetheaboriginal。WemaylooktothewideextentoftheAmericas,Polynesia,theCapeofGoodHope,andAustralia,andwefindthesameresult。Norisitthewhitemanalonethatthusactsthedestroyer;thePolynesianofMalayextractionhasinpartsoftheEastIndianarchipelago,thusdrivenbeforehimthedark-colourednative。Thevarietiesofmanseemtoactoneachotherinthesamewayasdifferentspeciesofanimals——thestrongeralwaysextirpatingtheweaker。ItwasmelancholyatNewZealandtohearthefineenergeticnativessayingthattheyknewthelandwasdoomedtopassfromtheirchildren。EveryonehasheardoftheinexplicablereductionofthepopulationinthebeautifulandhealthyislandofTahitisincethedateofCaptainCook’svoyages: althoughinthatcasewemighthaveexpectedthatitwouldhavebeenincreased; forinfanticide,whichformerlyprevailedtosoextraordinaryadegree,hasceased;profligacyhasgreatlydiminished,andthemurderouswarsbecomelessfrequent。 TheRev。J。Williams,inhisinterestingwork,[2]says,thatthefirstintercoursebetweennativesandEuropeans,“isinvariablyattendedwiththeintroductionoffever,dysentery,orsomeotherdisease,whichcarriesoffnumbersofthepeople。”Againheaffirms,“Itiscertainlyafact,whichcannotbecontroverted,thatmostofthediseaseswhichhaveragedintheislandsduringmyresidencethere,havebeenintroducedbyships;[3]andwhatrendersthisfactremarkableis,thattheremightbenoappearanceofdiseaseamongthecrewoftheshipwhichconveyedthisdestructiveimportation。”Thisstatementisnotquitesoextraordinaryasitatfirstappears;forseveralcasesareonrecordofthemostmalignantfevershavingbrokenout,althoughthepartiesthemselves,whowerethecause,werenotaffected。IntheearlypartofthereignofGeorgeIII。,aprisonerwhohadbeenconfinedinadungeon,wastakeninacoachwithfourconstablesbeforeamagistrate;andalthoughthemanhimselfwasnotill,thefourconstablesdiedfromashortputridfever; butthecontagionextendedtonoothers。Fromthesefactsitwouldalmostappearasiftheeffluviumofonesetofmenshutupforsometimetogetherwaspoisonouswheninhaledbyothers;andpossiblymoreso,ifthemenbeofdifferentraces。Mysteriousasthiscircumstanceappearstobe,itisnotmoresurprisingthanthatthebodyofone’sfellow-creature,directlyafterdeath,andbeforeputrefactionhascommenced,shouldoftenbeofsodeleteriousaquality,thatthemerepuncturefromaninstrumentusedinitsdissection,shouldprovefatal。 17th——EarlyinthemorningwepassedtheNepeaninaferry-boat。 Theriver,althoughatthisspotbothbroadanddeep,hadaverysmallbodyofrunningwater。Havingcrossedalowpieceoflandontheoppositeside,wereachedtheslopeoftheBlueMountains。Theascentisnotsteep,theroadhavingbeencutwithmuchcareonthesideofasandstonecliff。 Onthesummitanalmostlevelplainextends,which,risingimperceptiblytothewestward,atlastattainsaheightofmorethan3000feet。FromsograndatitleasBlueMountains,andfromtheirabsolutealtitude,I expectedtohaveseenaboldchainofmountainscrossingthecountry;butinsteadofthis,aslopingplainpresentsmerelyaninconsiderablefronttothelowlandnearthecoast。Fromthisfirstslope,theviewoftheextensivewoodlandtotheeastwasstriking,andthesurroundingtreesgrewboldandlofty。Butwhenonceonthesandstoneplatform,thescenerybecomesexceedinglymonotonous;eachsideoftheroadisborderedbyscrubbytreesofthenever-failingEucalyptusfamily;andwiththeexceptionoftwoorthreesmallinns,therearenohousesorcultivatedland:theroad,moreover,issolitary;themostfrequentobjectbeingabullock-waggon,piledupwithbalesofwool。 Inthemiddleofthedaywebaitedourhorsesatalittleinn,calledtheWeatherboard。Thecountryhereiselevated2800feetabovethesea。 Aboutamileandahalffromthisplacethereisaviewexceedinglywellworthvisiting。Followingdownalittlevalleyanditstinyrillofwater,animmensegulfunexpectedlyopensthroughthetreeswhichborderthepathway,atthedepthofperhaps1500feet。Walkingonafewyards,onestandsonthebrinkofavastprecipice,andbelowoneseesagrandbayorgulf,forIknownotwhatothernametogiveit,thicklycoveredwithforest。 Thepointofviewissituatedasifattheheadofabay,thelineofcliffdivergingoneachside,andshowingheadlandbehindheadland,asonaboldsea-coast。Thesecliffsarecomposedofhorizontalstrataofwhitishsandstone; andaresoabsolutelyvertical,thatinmanyplacesapersonstandingontheedgeandthrowingdownastone,canseeitstrikethetreesintheabyssbelow。Sounbrokenisthelineofcliff,thatinordertoreachthefootofthewaterfall,formedbythislittlestream,itissaidtobenecessarytogosixteenmilesround。Aboutfivemilesdistantinfront,anotherlineofcliffextends,whichthusappearscompletelytoencirclethevalley; andhencethenameofbayisjustified,asappliedtothisgrandamphitheatricaldepression。Ifweimagineawindingharbour,withitsdeepwatersurroundedbyboldcliff-likeshores,tobelaiddry,andaforesttospringuponitssandybottom,weshouldthenhavetheappearanceandstructurehereexhibited。Thiskindofviewwastomequitenovel,andextremelymagnificent。 IntheeveningwereachedtheBlackheath。Thesandstoneplateauhashereattainedtheheightof3400feet;andiscovered,asbefore,withthesamescrubbywoods。Fromtheroad,therewereoccasionalglimpsesintoaprofoundvalley,ofthesamecharacterastheonedescribed;butfromthesteepnessanddepthofitssides,thebottomwasscarcelyevertobeseen。TheBlackheathisaverycomfortableinn,keptbyanoldsoldier; anditremindedmeofthesmallinnsinNorthWales。 18th——Veryearlyinthemorning,IwalkedaboutthreemilestoseeGovett’sLeap;aviewofasimilarcharacterwiththatneartheWeatherboard,butperhapsevenmorestupendous。Soearlyinthedaythegulfwasfilledwithathinbluehaze,which,althoughdestroyingthegeneraleffectoftheviewaddedtotheapparentdepthatwhichtheforestwasstretchedoutbeneathourfeet。Thesevalleys,whichsolongpresentedaninsuperablebarriertotheattemptsofthemostenterprisingofthecoloniststoreachtheinterior,aremostremarkable。Greatarm-likebays,expandingattheirupperends,oftenbranchfromthemainvalleysandpenetratethesandstoneplatform;ontheotherhand,theplatformoftensendspromontoriesintothevalleys,andevenleavesinthemgreat,almostinsulated,masses。Todescendintosomeofthesevalleys,itisnecessarytogoroundtwentymiles;andintoothers,thesurveyorshaveonlylatelypenetrated,andthecolonistshavenotyetbeenabletodriveintheircattle。Butthemostremarkablefeatureintheirstructureis,thatalthoughseveralmileswideattheirheads,theygenerallycontracttowardstheirmouthstosuchadegreeastobecomeimpassable。TheSurveyor-General,SirT。Mitchell,[4]endeavouredinvain,firstwalkingandthenbycrawlingbetweenthegreatfallenfragmentsofsandstone,toascendthroughthegorgebywhichtheriverGrosejoinstheNepean,yetthevalleyoftheGroseinitsupperpart,asIsaw,formsamagnificentlevelbasinsomemilesinwidth,andisonallsidessurroundedbycliffs,thesummitsofwhicharebelievedtobenowherelessthan3000feetabovethelevelofthesea。WhencattlearedrivenintothevalleyoftheWolganbyapath(whichIdescended),partlynaturalandpartlymadebytheowneroftheland,theycannotescape;forthisvalleyisineveryotherpartsurroundedbyperpendicularcliffs,andeightmileslowerdown,itcontractsfromanaveragewidthofhalfamile,toamerechasm,impassabletomanorbeast。SirT。MitchellstatesthatthegreatvalleyoftheCoxriverwithallitsbranches,contracts,whereituniteswiththeNepean,intoagorge2200yardsinwidth,andabout1000feetindepth。Othersimilarcasesmighthavebeenadded。 Thefirstimpression,onseeingthecorrespondenceofthehorizontalstrataoneachsideofthesevalleysandgreatamphitheatricaldepressions,isthattheyhavebeenhollowedout,likeothervalleys,bytheactionofwater;butwhenonereflectsontheenormousamountofstone,whichonthisviewmusthavebeenremovedthroughmeregorgesorchasms,oneisledtoaskwhetherthesespacesmaynothavesubsided。Butconsideringtheformoftheirregularlybranchingvalleys,andofthenarrowpromontoriesprojectingintothemfromtheplatforms,wearecompelledtoabandonthisnotion。Toattributethesehollowstothepresentalluvialactionwouldbepreposterous;nordoesthedrainagefromthesummit-levelalwaysfall,asIremarkedneartheWeatherboard,intotheheadofthesevalleys,butintoonesideoftheirbay-likerecesses。Someoftheinhabitantsremarkedtomethattheyneverviewedoneofthosebay-likerecesses,withtheheadlandsrecedingonbothhands,withoutbeingstruckwiththeirresemblancetoaboldsea-coast。Thisiscertainlythecase;moreover,onthepresentcoastofNewSouthWales,thenumerous,fine,widely-branchingharbours,whicharegenerallyconnectedwiththeseabyanarrowmouthwornthroughthesandstonecoast-cliffs,varyingfromonemileinwidthtoaquarterofamile,presentalikeness,thoughonaminiaturescale,tothegreatvalleysoftheinterior。Butthenimmediatelyoccursthestartlingdifficulty,whyhastheseawornoutthesegreat,thoughcircumscribeddepressionsonawideplatform,andleftmeregorgesattheopenings,throughwhichthewholevastamountoftrituratedmattermusthavebeencarriedaway?