第75章

类别:其他 作者:Charles Darwin字数:5336更新时间:18/12/21 17:23:57
TheonlylightIcanthrowuponthisenigma,isbyremarkingthatbanksofthemostirregularformsappeartobenowforminginsomeseas,asinpartsoftheWestIndiesandintheRedSea,andthattheirsidesareexceedinglysteep。Suchbanks,Ihavebeenledtosuppose,havebeenformedbysedimentheapedbystrongcurrentsonanirregularbottom。Thatinsomecasesthesea,insteadofspreadingoutsedimentinauniformsheet,heapsitroundsubmarinerocksandislands,itishardlypossibletodoubt,afterexaminingthechartsoftheWestIndies;andthatthewaveshavepowertoformhighandprecipitouscliffs,eveninland-lockedharbours,IhavenoticedinmanypartsofSouthAmerica。ToapplytheseideastothesandstoneplatformsofNewSouthWales,Iimaginethatthestratawereheapedbytheactionofstrongcurrents,andoftheundulationsofanopensea,onanirregularbottom;andthatthevalley-likespacesthusleftunfilledhadtheirsteeplyslopingflankswornintocliffs,duringaslowelevationoftheland;theworn-downsandstonebeingremoved,eitheratthetimewhenthenarrowgorgeswerecutbytheretreatingsea,orsubsequentlybyalluvialaction。 SoonafterleavingtheBlackheath,wedescendedfromthesandstoneplatformbythepassofMountVictoria。Toeffectthispass,anenormousquantityofstonehasbeencutthrough;thedesign,anditsmannerofexecution,beingworthyofanylineofroadinEngland。Wenowentereduponacountrylesselevatedbynearlyathousandfeet,andconsistingofgranite。Withthechangeofrock,thevegetationimproved,thetreeswerebothfinerandstoodfartherapart;andthepasturebetweenthemwasalittlegreenerandmoreplentiful。AtHassan’sWalls,Ileftthehighroad,andmadeashortdetourtoafarmcalledWalerawang;tothesuperintendentofwhichIhadaletterofintroductionfromtheownerinSydney。Mr。Brownehadthekindnesstoaskmetostaytheensuingday,whichIhadmuchpleasureindoing。Thisplaceoffersanexampleofoneofthelargefarming,orrathersheep-grazingestablishmentsofthecolony。Cattleandhorsesare,however,inthiscaserathermorenumerousthanusual,owingtosomeofthevalleysbeingswampyandproducingacoarserpasture。Twoorthreeflatpiecesofgroundnearthehousewereclearedandcultivatedwithcorn,whichtheharvest-menwerenowreaping:butnomorewheatissownthansufficientfortheannualsupportofthelabourersemployedontheestablishment。 Theusualnumberofassignedconvict-servantshereisaboutforty,butatthepresenttimetherewererathermore。Althoughthefarmwaswellstockedwitheverynecessary,therewasanapparentabsenceofcomfort; andnotonesinglewomanresidedhere。Thesunsetofafinedaywillgenerallycastanairofhappycontentmentonanyscene;buthere,atthisretiredfarm-house,thebrightesttintsonthesurroundingwoodscouldnotmakemeforgetthatfortyhardened,profligatemenwereceasingfromtheirdailylabours,liketheslavesfromAfrica,yetwithouttheirholyclaimforcompassion。 Earlyonthenextmorning,Mr。Archer,thejointsuperintendent,hadthekindnesstotakemeoutkangaroo-hunting。Wecontinuedridingthegreaterpartoftheday,buthadverybadsport,notseeingakangaroo,orevenawilddog。Thegreyhoundspursuedakangarooratintoahollowtree,outofwhichwedraggedit:itisananimalaslargeasarabbit,butwiththefigureofakangaroo。Afewyearssincethiscountryaboundedwithwildanimals;butnowtheemuisbanishedtoalongdistance,andthekangarooisbecomescarce;toboththeEnglishgreyhoundhasbeenhighlydestructive。 Itmaybelongbeforetheseanimalsarealtogetherexterminated,buttheirdoomisfixed。Theaboriginesarealwaysanxioustoborrowthedogsfromthefarm-houses:theuseofthem,theoffalwhenananimaliskilled,andsomemilkfromthecows,arethepeace-offeringsofthesettlers,whopushfartherandfarthertowardstheinterior。Thethoughtlessaboriginal,blindedbythesetriflingadvantages,isdelightedattheapproachofthewhiteman,whoseemspredestinedtoinheritthecountryofhischildren。 Althoughhavingpoorsport,weenjoyedapleasantride。Thewoodlandisgenerallysoopenthatapersononhorsebackcangallopthroughit。 Itistraversedbyafewflat-bottomedvalleys,whicharegreenandfreefromtrees:insuchspotsthescenerywasprettylikethatofapark。InthewholecountryIscarcelysawaplacewithoutthemarksofafire;whetherthesehadbeenmoreorlessrecent——whetherthestumpsweremoreorlessblack,wasthegreatestchangewhichvariedtheuniformity,sowearisometothetraveller’seye。Inthesewoodstherearenotmanybirds;Isaw,however,somelargeflocksofthewhitecockatoofeedinginacorn-field,andafewmostbeautifulparrots;crows,likeourjackdawswerenotuncommon,andanotherbirdsomethinglikethemagpie。IntheduskoftheeveningItookastrollalongachainofponds,whichinthisdrycountryrepresentedthecourseofariver,andhadthegoodfortunetoseeseveralofthefamousOrnithorhynchusparadoxus。Theyweredivingandplayingaboutthesurfaceofthewater,butshowedsolittleoftheirbodies,thattheymighteasilyhavebeenmistakenforwater-rats。Mr。Browneshotone:certainlyitisamostextraordinaryanimal;astuffedspecimendoesnotatallgiveagoodideaoftheappearanceoftheheadandbeakwhenfresh;thelatterbecominghardandcontracted。[5] 20th——Alongday’sridetoBathurst。Beforejoiningthehighroadwefollowedamerepaththroughtheforest;andthecountry,withtheexceptionofafewsquatters’huts,wasverysolitary。Weexperiencedthisdaythesirocco-likewindofAustralia,whichcomesfromtheparcheddesertsoftheinterior。Cloudsofdustweretravellingineverydirection;andthewindfeltasifithadpassedoverafire。Iafterwardsheardthatthethermometeroutofdoorshadstoodat119degs。,andinaclosedroomat96degs。IntheafternoonwecameinviewofthedownsofBathurst。Theseundulatingbutnearlysmoothplainsareveryremarkableinthiscountry,frombeingabsolutelydestituteoftrees。Theysupportonlyathinbrownpasture。Werodesomemilesoverthiscountry,andthenreachedthetownshipofBathurst,seatedinthemiddleofwhatmaybecalledeitheraverybroadvalley,ornarrowplain。IwastoldatSydneynottoformtoobadanopinionofAustraliabyjudgingofthecountryfromtheroadside,nortoogoodaonefromBathurst;inthislatterrespect,Ididnotfeelmyselfintheleastdangerofbeingprejudiced。Theseason,itmustbeowned,hadbeenoneofgreatdrought,andthecountrydidnotwearafavourableaspect; althoughIunderstanditwasincomparablyworsetwoorthreemonthsbefore。 ThesecretoftherapidlygrowingprosperityofBathurstis,thatthebrownpasturewhichappearstothestranger’seyesowretched,isexcellentforsheep-grazing。Thetownstands,attheheightof2200feetabovethesea,onthebanksoftheMacquarie。Thisisoneoftheriversflowingintothevastandscarcelyknowninterior。Thelineofwatershed,whichdividestheinlandstreamsfromthoseonthecoast,hasaheightofabout3000 feet,andrunsinanorthandsouthdirectionatthedistanceoffromeightytoahundredmilesfromthesea-side。TheMacquariefiguresinthemapasarespectableriver,anditisthelargestofthosedrainingthispartofthewater-shed;yettomysurpriseIfounditamerechainofponds,separatedfromeachotherbyspacesalmostdry。Generallyasmallstreamisrunning;andsometimestherearehighandimpetuousfloods。Scantyasthesupplyofthewateristhroughoutthisdistrict,itbecomesstillscantierfurtherinland。 22nd——Icommencedmyreturn,andfollowedanewroadcalledLockyer’sLine,alongwhichthecountryisrathermorehillyandpicturesque。Thiswasalongday’sride;andthehousewhereIwishedtosleepwassomewayofftheroad,andnoteasilyfound。Imetonthisoccasion,andindeedonallothers,averygeneralandreadycivilityamongthelowerorders,which,whenoneconsiderswhattheyare,andwhattheyhavebeen,wouldscarcelyhavebeenexpected。ThefarmwhereIpassedthenight,wasownedbytwoyoungmenwhohadonlylatelycomeout,andwerebeginningasettler’slife。Thetotalwantofalmosteverycomfortwasnotattractive;butfutureandcertainprosperitywasbeforetheireyes,andthatnotfardistant。 Thenextdaywepassedthroughlargetractsofcountryinflames,volumesofsmokesweepingacrosstheroad。Beforenoonwejoinedourformerroad,andascendedMountVictoria。IsleptattheWeatherboard,andbeforedarktookanotherwalktotheamphitheatre。OntheroadtoSydneyIspentaverypleasanteveningwithCaptainKingatDunheved;andthusendedmylittleexcursioninthecolonyofNewSouthWales。 Beforearrivingherethethreethingswhichinterestedmemostwere——thestateofsocietyamongstthehigherclasses,theconditionoftheconvicts,andthedegreeofattractionsufficienttoinducepersonstoemigrate。Ofcourse,aftersoveryshortavisit,one’sopinionisworthscarcelyanything;butitisasdifficultnottoformsomeopinion,asitistoformacorrectjudgment。Onthewhole,fromwhatIheard,morethanfromwhatIsaw,Iwasdisappointedinthestateofsociety。Thewholecommunityisrancorouslydividedintopartiesonalmosteverysubject。 Amongthosewho,fromtheirstationinlife,oughttobethebest,manyliveinsuchopenprofligacythatrespectablepeoplecannotassociatewiththem。Thereismuchjealousybetweenthechildrenoftherichemancipistandthefreesettlers,theformerbeingpleasedtoconsiderhonestmenasinterlopers。Thewholepopulation,poorandrich,arebentonacquiringwealth:amongstthehigherorders,woolandsheep-grazingformtheconstantsubjectofconversation。Therearemanyseriousdrawbackstothecomfortsofafamily,thechiefofwhich,perhaps,isbeingsurroundedbyconvictservants。Howthoroughlyodioustoeveryfeeling,tobewaitedonbyamanwhothedaybefore,perhaps,wasflogged,fromyourrepresentation,forsometriflingmisdemeanor。Thefemaleservantsareofcourse,muchworse:hencechildrenlearnthevilestexpressions,anditisfortunate,ifnotequallyvileideas。 Ontheotherhand,thecapitalofaperson,withoutanytroubleonhispart,produceshimtrebleinteresttowhatitwillinEngland;andwithcareheissuretogrowrich。Theluxuriesoflifeareinabundance,andverylittledearerthaninEngland,andmostarticlesoffoodarecheaper。 Theclimateissplendid,andperfectlyhealthy;buttomyminditscharmsarelostbytheuninvitingaspectofthecountry。Settlerspossessagreatadvantageinfindingtheirsonsofservicewhenveryyoung。Attheageoffromsixteentotwenty,theyfrequentlytakechargeofdistantfarmingstations。This,however,musthappenattheexpenseoftheirboysassociatingentirelywithconvictservants。Iamnotawarethatthetoneofsocietyhasassumedanypeculiarcharacter;butwithsuchhabits,andwithoutintellectualpursuits,itcanhardlyfailtodeteriorate。Myopinionissuch,thatnothingbutrathersharpnecessityshouldcompelmetoemigrate。 Therapidprosperityandfutureprospectsofthiscolonyaretome,notunderstandingthesesubjects,verypuzzling。Thetwomainexportsarewoolandwhale-oil,andtobothoftheseproductionsthereisalimit。 Thecountryistotallyunfitforcanals,thereforethereisanotverydistantpoint,beyondwhichtheland-carriageofwoolwillnotrepaytheexpenseofshearingandtendingsheep。Pastureeverywhereissothinthatsettlershavealreadypushedfarintotheinterior:moreover,thecountryfurtherinlandbecomesextremelypoor。Agriculture,onaccountofthedroughts,canneversucceedonanextendedscale:therefore,sofarasIcansee,Australiamustultimatelydependuponbeingthecentreofcommerceforthesouthernhemisphere,andperhapsonherfuturemanufactories。Possessingcoal,shealwayshasthemovingpowerathand。Fromthehabitablecountryextendingalongthecoast,andfromherEnglishextraction,sheissuretobeamaritimenation。IformerlyimaginedthatAustraliawouldrisetobeasgrandandpowerfulacountryasNorthAmerica,butnowitappearstomethatsuchfuturegrandeurisratherproblematical。