第77章

类别:其他 作者:Charles Darwin字数:5819更新时间:18/12/21 17:23:57
Afterseveraltediousdelaysfromcloudedweather,onthe14thofMarch,wegladlystoodoutofKingGeorge’sSoundonourcoursetoKeelingIsland。 Farewell,Australia!youarearisingchild,anddoubtlesssomedaywillreignagreatprincessintheSouth:butyouaretoogreatandambitiousforaffection,yetnotgreatenoughforrespect。Ileaveyourshoreswithoutsorroworregret。[1]Itisremarkablehowthesamediseaseismodifiedindifferentclimates。AtthelittleislandofSt。Helenatheintroductionofscarletfeverisdreadedasaplague。Insomecountries,foreignersandnativesareasdifferentlyaffectedbycertaincontagiousdisordersasiftheyhadbeendifferentanimals;ofwhichfactsomeinstanceshaveoccurredinChile;and,accordingtoHumboldt,inMexico(Polit。Essay,NewSpain,vol。iv。)。 [2]NarrativeofMissionaryEnterprise,p。282。 [3]CaptainBeechey(chap。iv。,vol。i。)statesthattheinhabitantsofPitcairnIslandarefirmlyconvincedthatafterthearrivalofeveryshiptheysuffercutaneousandotherdisorders。CaptainBeecheyattributesthistothechangeofdietduringthetimeofthevisit。 Dr。Macculloch(WesternIsles,vol。ii。p。32)says:“Itisasserted,thatonthearrivalofastranger(atSt。Kilda)alltheinhabitants,inthecommonphraseology,catchacold。”Dr。Maccullochconsidersthewholecase,althoughoftenpreviouslyaffirmed,asludicrous。Headds,however,that“thequestionwasputbyustotheinhabitantswhounanimouslyagreedinthestory。”InVancouver’sVoyage,thereisasomewhatsimilarstatementwithrespecttoOtaheite。Dr。Dieffenbach,inanotetohistranslationoftheJournal,statesthatthesamefactisuniversallybelievedbytheinhabitantsoftheChathamIslands,andinpartsofNewZealand。Itisimpossiblethatsuchabeliefshouldhavebecomeuniversalinthenorthernhemisphere,attheAntipodes,andinthePacific,withoutsomegoodfoundation。 Humboldt(Polit。EssayonKingofNewSpain,vol。iv。)says,thatthegreatepidemicsofPanamaandCallaoare“marked“bythearrivalofshipsfromChile,becausethepeoplefromthattemperateregion,firstexperiencethefataleffectsofthetorridzones。Imayadd,thatIhavehearditstatedinShropshire,thatsheep,whichhavebeenimportedfromvessels,althoughthemselvesinahealthycondition,ifplacedinthesamefoldwithothers,frequentlyproducesicknessintheflock。 [4]TravelsinAustralia,vol。i。p。154。ImustexpressmyobligationtoSirT。Mitchell,forseveralinterestingpersonalcommunicationsonthesubjectofthesegreatvalleysofNewSouthWales。 [5]Iwasinterestedbyfindingherethehollowconicalpitfallofthelion-ant,orsomeotherinsect;firstaflyfelldownthetreacherousslopeandimmediatelydisappeared;thencamealargebutunwaryant;itsstrugglestoescapebeingveryviolent,thosecuriouslittlejetsofsand,describedbyKirbyandSpence(Entomol。,vol。i。p。 425)asbeingflirtedbytheinsect’stail,werepromptlydirectedagainsttheexpectedvictim。Buttheantenjoyedabetterfatethanthefly,andescapedthefataljawswhichlayconcealedatthebaseoftheconicalhollow。 ThisAustralianpitfallwasonlyabouthalfthesizeofthatmadebytheEuropeanlion-ant。 [6]PhysicalDescriptionofNewSouthWalesandVanDiemen’sLand,p。354。PreviousChapterNextChapterTheVoyageoftheBeagle-Chapter20TheVoyageoftheBeaglebyCharlesDarwinPreviousChapterNextChapterChapter20-KeelingIsland:——CoralFormationsAPRIL1st——WearrivedinviewoftheKeelingorCocosIslands,situatedintheIndianOcean,andaboutsixhundredmilesdistantfromthecoastofSumatra。Thisisoneofthelagoon-islands(oratolls)ofcoralformation,similartothoseintheLowArchipelagowhichwepassednear。Whentheshipwasinthechannelattheentrance,Mr。Liesk,anEnglishresident,cameoffinhisboat。Thehistoryoftheinhabitantsofthisplace,inasfewwordsaspossible,isasfollows。Aboutnineyearsago,Mr。Hare,aworthlesscharacter,broughtfromtheEastIndianarchipelagoanumberofMalayslaves,whichnowincludingchildren,amounttomorethanahundred。 Shortlyafterwards,CaptainRoss,whohadbeforevisitedtheseislandsinhismerchant-ship,arrivedfromEngland,bringingwithhimhisfamilyandgoodsforsettlementalongwithhimcameMr。Liesk,whohadbeenamateinhisvessel。TheMalayslavessoonranawayfromtheisletonwhichMr。Harewassettled,andjoinedCaptainRoss’sparty。Mr。Hareuponthiswasultimatelyobligedtoleavetheplace。 TheMalaysarenownominallyinastateoffreedom,andcertainlyareso,asfarasregardstheirpersonaltreatment;butinmostotherpointstheyareconsideredasslaves。Fromtheirdiscontentedstate,fromtherepeatedremovalsfromislettoislet,andperhapsalsofromalittlemismanagement,thingsarenotveryprosperous。Theislandhasnodomesticquadruped,exceptingthepig,andthemainvegetableproductionisthecocoa-nut。Thewholeprosperityoftheplacedependsonthistree:theonlyexportsbeingoilfromthenut,andthenutsthemselves,whicharetakentoSingaporeandMauritius,wheretheyarechieflyused,whengrated,inmakingcurries。 Onthecocoa-nut,also,thepigs,whichareloadedwithfat,almostentirelysubsist,asdotheducksandpoultry。Evenahugeland-crabisfurnishedbynaturewiththemeanstoopenandfeedonthismostusefulproduction。 Thering-formedreefofthelagoon-islandissurmountedinthegreaterpartofitslengthbylinearislets。Onthenorthernorleewardside,thereisanopeningthroughwhichvesselscanpasstotheanchoragewithin。Onentering,thescenewasverycuriousandratherpretty;itsbeauty,however,entirelydependedonthebrilliancyofthesurroundingcolours。Theshallow,clear,andstillwaterofthelagoon,restinginitsgreaterpartonwhitesand,is,whenilluminedbyaverticalsun,ofthemostvividgreen。Thisbrilliantexpanse,severalmilesinwidth,isonallsidesdivided,eitherbyalineofsnow-whitebreakersfromthedarkheavingwatersoftheocean,orfromthebluevaultofheavenbythestripsofland,crownedbytheleveltopsofthecocoa-nuttrees。Asawhitecloudhereandthereaffordsapleasingcontrastwiththeazuresky,sointhelagoon,bandsoflivingcoraldarkentheemeraldgreenwater。 Thenextmorningafteranchoring,IwentonshoreonDirectionIsland。 Thestripofdrylandisonlyafewhundredyardsinwidth;onthelagoonsidethereisawhitecalcareousbeach,theradiationfromwhichunderthissultryclimatewasveryoppressive;andontheoutercoast,asolidbroadflatofcoral-rockservedtobreaktheviolenceoftheopensea。 Exceptingnearthelagoon,wherethereissomesand,thelandisentirelycomposedofroundedfragmentsofcoral。Insuchaloose,dry,stonysoil,theclimateoftheintertropicalregionsalonecouldproduceavigorousvegetation。Onsomeofthesmallerislets,nothingcouldbemoreelegantthanthemannerinwhichtheyoungandfull-growncocoa-nuttrees,withoutdestroyingeachother’ssymmetry,weremingledintoonewood。Abeachofglitteringwhitesandformedabordertothesefairyspots。 Iwillnowgiveasketchofthenaturalhistoryoftheseislands,which,fromitsverypaucity,possessesapeculiarinterest。Thecocoa-nuttree,atfirstglance,seemstocomposethewholewood;therearehowever,fiveorsixothertrees。Oneofthesegrowstoaverylargesize,butfromtheextremesofsoftnessofitswood,isuseless;anothersortaffordsexcellenttimberforship-building。Besidesthetrees,thenumberofplantsisexceedinglylimited,andconsistsofinsignificantweeds。Inmycollection,whichincludes,Ibelieve,nearlytheperfectFlora,therearetwentyspecies,withoutreckoningamoss,lichen,andfungus。Tothisnumbertwotreesmustbeadded;oneofwhichwasnotinflower,andtheotherIonlyheardof。Thelatterisasolitarytreeofitskind,andgrowsnearthebeach,where,withoutdoubt,theoneseedwasthrownupbythewaves。AGuilandinaalsogrowsononlyoneoftheislets。Idonotincludeintheabovelistthesugar-cane,banana,someothervegetables,fruit-trees,andimportedgrasses。 Astheislandsconsistentirelyofcoral,andatonetimemusthaveexistedasmerewater-washedreefs,alltheirterrestrialproductionsmusthavebeentransportedherebythewavesofthesea。Inaccordancewiththis,theFlorulahasquitethecharacterofarefugeforthedestitute:ProfessorHenslowinformsmethatofthetwentyspeciesnineteenbelongtodifferentgenera,andtheseagaintonolessthansixteenfamilies![1] InHolman’s[2]Travelsanaccountisgiven,ontheauthorityofMr。A。S。Keating,whoresidedtwelvemonthsontheseislands,ofthevariousseedsandotherbodieswhichhavebeenknowntohavebeenwashedonshore。“SeedsandplantsfromSumatraandJavahavebeendrivenupbythesurfonthewindwardsideoftheislands。AmongthemhavebeenfoundtheKimiri,nativeofSumatraandthepeninsulaofMalacca; thecocoa-nutofBalci,knownbyitsshapeandsize;theDadass,whichisplantedbytheMalayswiththepepper-vine,thelatterintwiningrounditstrunk,andsupportingitselfbythepricklesonitsstem;thesoap-tree; thecastor-oilplant;trunksofthesagopalm;andvariouskindsofseedsunknowntotheMalayssettledontheislands。TheseareallsupposedtohavebeendrivenbytheN。W。monsoontothecoastofNewHolland,andthencetotheseislandsbytheS。E。trade-wind。LargemassesofJavateakandYellowwoodhavealsobeenfound,besidesimmensetreesofredandwhitecedar,andthebluegumwoodofNewHolland,inaperfectlysoundcondition。Allthehardyseeds,suchascreepers,retaintheirgerminatingpower,butthesofterkinds,amongwhichisthemangostin,aredestroyedinthepassage。Fishing-canoes,apparentlyfromJava,haveattimesbeenwashedonshore。”Itisinterestingthustodiscoverhownumeroustheseedsare,which,comingfromseveralcountries,aredriftedoverthewideocean。 ProfessorHenslowtellsme,hebelievesthatnearlyalltheplantswhichIbroughtfromtheseislands,arecommonlittoralspeciesintheEastIndianarchipelago。Fromthedirection,however,ofthewindsandcurrents,itseemsscarcelypossiblethattheycouldhavecomehereinadirectline。 If,assuggestedwithmuchprobabilitybyMr。Keating,theywerefirstcarriedtowardsthecoastofNewHolland,andthencedriftedbacktogetherwiththeproductionsofthatcountry,theseeds,beforegerminating,musthavetravelledbetween1800and2400miles。 Chamisso,[3]whendescribingtheRadackArchipelago,situatedinthewesternpartofthePacific,statesthat“theseabringstotheseislandstheseedsandfruitsofmanytrees,mostofwhichhaveyetnotgrownhere。Thegreaterpartoftheseseedsappeartohavenotyetlostthecapabilityofgrowing。” Itisalsosaidthatpalmsandbamboosfromsomewhereinthetorridzone,andtrunksofnorthernfirs,arewashedonshore:thesefirsmusthavecomefromanimmensedistance。Thesefactsarehighlyinteresting。 Itcannotbedoubtedthatiftherewereland-birdstopickuptheseedswhenfirstcastonshore,andasoilbetteradaptedfortheirgrowththanthelooseblocksofcoral,thatthemostisolatedofthelagoon-islandswouldintimepossessafarmoreabundantFlorathantheynowhave。 Thelistoflandanimalsisevenpoorerthanthatoftheplants。Someoftheisletsareinhabitedbyrats,whichwerebroughtinashipfromtheMauritius,wreckedhere。TheseratsareconsideredbyMr。WaterhouseasidenticalwiththeEnglishkind,buttheyaresmaller,andmorebrightlycoloured。Therearenotrueland-birds,forasnipeandarail(RallusPhillippensis),thoughlivingentirelyinthedryherbage,belongtotheorderofWaders。BirdsofthisorderaresaidtooccuronseveralofthesmalllowislandsinthePacific。AtAscension,wherethereisnoland-bird,arail(Porphyriosimplex)wasshotnearthesummitofthemountain,anditwasevidentlyasolitarystraggler。AtTristand’Acunha,where,accordingtoCarmichael,thereareonlytwoland-birds,thereisacoot。FromthesefactsIbelievethatthewaders,aftertheinnumerableweb-footedspecies,aregenerallythefirstcolonistsofsmallisolatedislands。Imayadd,thatwheneverInoticedbirds,notofoceanicspecies,veryfaroutatsea,theyalwaysbelongedtothisorder;andhencetheywouldnaturallybecometheearliestcolonistsofanyremotepointofland。 OfreptilesIsawonlyonesmalllizard。OfinsectsItookpainstocollecteverykind。Exclusiveofspiders,whichwerenumerous,therewerethirteenspecies。[4]Ofthese,oneonlywasabeetle。 Asmallantswarmedbythousandsundertheloosedryblocksofcoral,andwastheonlytrueinsectwhichwasabundant。Althoughtheproductionsofthelandarethusscanty,ifwelooktothewatersofthesurroundingsea,thenumberoforganicbeingsisindeedinfinite。Chamissohasdescribed[5]thenaturalhistoryofalagoon-islandintheRadackArchipelago;anditisremarkablehowcloselyitsinhabitants,innumberandkind,resemblethoseofKeelingIsland。Thereisonelizardandtwowaders,namely,asnipeandcurlew。Ofplantstherearenineteenspecies,includingafern;andsomeofthesearethesamewiththosegrowinghere,thoughonaspotsoimmenselyremote,andinadifferentocean。