第29章

类别:其他 作者:William Dean Howells字数:5265更新时间:18/12/27 08:43:26
Numbersoftourists,ofanationalitythatshoweditselfsuperiortoeverydistinctionofrace,werestrollingvaguelyandnotalwaysquitehappilyabout;buttheymadenoimpressionontheproperlocalcharacter,andtheairthroughoutthemorningwasfullofthesentimentofSundayinaCatholiccity。Therewastheapparentlymeaninglessjanglingofbells,withprofoundhushesbetween,andthenmorejubilantjangling,andthendeepersilence;therewasthedevouttroopingofthecrowdstothechurches;andtherewasthebeginningofthelongafternoon’sloungingandamusementwithwhichthepeopleofthatfaithrewardtheirmorning’sdevotion。Littlestandsforthesaleofknottyapplesandchoke-cherriesandcakesandcidersprangmagicallyintoexistenceafterservice,andpeoplewerealreadyeatinganddrinkingatthem。Thecarriage-driversresumedtheirchaseofthetourists,andtheunvoicefulstirofthenewweekhadbegunagain。Quebec,infact,isbutapantomimicreproductionofFrance;itisasiftwocenturiesinanewland,amidsttheprimevalsilencesofnatureandthelonghushoftheNorthernwinters,hadstilledthetonguesofthelivelyfolkandmadethemtaciturnasweofagraverrace。Theyhavekepttheancestralvivacityofmanner;theeleganceoftheshrugisintact;thetalkinghandstakepartindialogue;theagitatedpersonwillhaveitsshareofexpression。Buttheloudandeagertoneiswanting,andtheirdumbshowmystifiesthebeholderalmostasmuchastheSouthernarchitectureundertheslantingNorthernsun。ItisnotAmerica;ifitisnotFrance,whatisit? OfthemanybeautifulthingstoseeintheneighborhoodofQuebec,ourwedding-journeyerswereindoubtonwhichtobestowtheironepreciousafternoon。ShoulditbeLorette,withitscataractanditsremnantofbleachedandfadingHurons,ortheIsleofOrleanswithitsfertilefarmsanditsprimitivepeasantlife,orMontmorenci,withtheunrivaledfallandthelongdrivethroughthebeautifulvillageofBeauport?Isabelchosethelast,becauseBasilhadbeentherebefore,andithadtoitthepoetryofthewastedyearsinwhichshedidnotknowhim。Shehadpossessedherselfofthejournalofhisearlytravels,amongtheotherportionsandparcelsrecoverablefromthedreadfulpast,andfromtimetotimeonthisjourneyshehadreadhimpassagesoutofit,withmingledsentimentandirony,and,whethershewasmockingoradmiring,equallytohisconfusion。Now,astheysmoothlybowledawayfromthecity,shemadehimlistentowhathehadwrittenofthesameexcursionlongago。 Itwas,tobesure,asadfarragoofsentimentaboutthevillageandtheruralsights,andespeciallyagirltossinghayinthefield。Yetithadtouchesofnatureandreality,andBasilcouldnotutterlydespisehimselfforhavingwrittenit。“Yes,“hesaid,“lifewasthenathingtobeputintoprettyperiods;nowit’ssomethingthathasrisksandaverages,andmaybeinsured。“ Therewasregret,fanciedorexpressed,inhistone,thatmadehersigh,“Ah!ifI’donlyhadalittlemoremoney,youmighthavedevotedyourselftoliterature;“forshewasatrueBostonianinherhonorofourpoorcraft。 “O,you’renotgreatlytoblame,“answeredherhusband,“andIforgiveyouthelittlewrongyou’vedoneme。IwasquitswiththeMuse,atanyrate,youknow,beforeweweremarried;andI’mverywellsatisfiedtobegoingbacktomyapplicationsandpoliciesto-morrow。“ To-morrow?Thewordstruckcolduponher。Thentheirweddingjourneywouldbegintoendtomorrow!Soitwould,sheownedwithanothersigh; andyetitseemedimpossible。 “There,ma’am,“saidthedriver,risingfromhisseatandfacinground,whilehepointedwithhiswhiptowardsQuebec,“that’swhatwecalltheSilverCity。“ Theylookedbackwithhimatthecity,whosethousandsoftinnedroofs,risingoneabovetheotherfromthewater’sedgetothecitadel,wereallasplendorofargentlightintheafternoonsun。Itwasindeedasifsomemagichadclothedthathugerock,baseandsteepyflankandcrest,withasilvercity。Theygazeduponthemarvelwithcriesofjoythatsatisfiedthedriver’sutmostprideinit,andIsabelsaid,“Tolivethere,thereinthatSilverCity,inperpetualsojourn!Tobealwaysgoingtogoonamorrowthatnevercame!Tobeforeverwithinonedayoftheendofaweddingjourneythatneverended!“ Fromfardowntheriverbywhichtheyrodecamethesoundofacannon,breakingtheSabbathreposeoftheair。“That’sthegunoftheLiverpoolsteamer,justcomingin,“saidthedriver。 “O,“criedIsabel,“I’mthankfulwe’reonlytostayonenightmore,fornowweshallbeturnedoutofourniceroombythosepeoplewhotelegraphedforit!“ ThereisacontinuousvillagealongtheSt。LawrencefromQuebec,almosttoMontmorenci;andtheymetcrowdsofvillagerscomingfromthechurchastheypassedthroughBeauport。ButBasilwasdismayedatthechangethathadbefallenthem。TheyhadtheirSunday’sbeston,andthewomen,insteadofwearingthepeasantcostumeinwhichhehadfirstseenthem,werenowdressedasifoutof“Harper’sBazar“oftheyearbefore。Heanxiouslyaskedthedriverifthebroadstrawhatsandthebrightsacksandkirtleswerenomore。“O,you’dseethemonweekdays,sir,“wastheanswer,“butthey’renotsoplentyanytimeastheyusedtobe。“Heopenedhisstoreoffactsaboutthehabitans,whomhepraisedforeveryvirtue,——forthrift,forsobriety,forneatness,foramiability;andhiswordsoughttohavehadthegreaterweight,becausehewasoftheIrishrace,betweenwhichandtheCanadiansthereisnokindnesslost。Butthelooksofthepassers-bycorroboratedhim,andasforthelittlehouses,open-dooredbesidetheway,withthepleasantfacesatwindowandportal,theyweremiraclesofpicturesquenessandcleanliness。Fromeachtheowner’sslimdomain,narrowingateverysuccessivedivisionamongtheabundantgenerations,runsbacktohillorriverinwell-definedlines,andbesidethecottageisagardenofpot-herbs,borderedwithaflameofbrightautumnflowers;somewhereindecentseclusiongruntsthefatteningpig,whichistoenrichallthosepeasandonionsforthewinter’sbroth; thereisacheerfulnessofpoultryaboutthebarns;Idarebeswornthereisalwaysasmallgirldrivingaflockofdecorousducksdownthemiddleofthestreet;andofthepriestwithabookunderhisarm,passingaway-sideshrine,whatpossibledoubt?Thehouses,whichareofonemodel,arebuiltbythepeasantsthemselveswiththestonewhichtheirlandyieldsmoreabundantlythananyothercrop,andarefurnishedwithgalleriesandbalconiestocatcheveryrayofthefleetingsummer,andperhapstorememberthelong-lostancestralsummersofNormandy。Ateverymoment,inpassingthroughthisideallyneatandprettyvillage,ourtouristsmustthinkofthelovelypoemofwhichallFrenchCanadaseemsbutareminiscenceandillustration。ItwasGrandPre,notBeauport;andtheypaidaneagerhomagetothebeautifulgeniuswhichhastouchedthosesimplevillageaspectswithanundyingcharm,andwhich,whatevertheland’spoliticalallegiance,isthereperpetualSeigneur。 Thevillage,stretchingalongthebroadintervaloftheSt。Lawrence,growssparserasyoudrawneartheFallsofMontmorenci,andpresentlyyoudrivepastthegroveshuttingfromtheroadthecountry-houseinwhichtheDukeofKentspentsomemerrydaysofhisjovialyouth,andcomeinsightoftwoloftytowersofstone,——monumentsandwitnessesofthetragedyofMontmorenci。 Onceasuspension-bridge,builtsorelyagainstthewilloftheneighboringhabitans,hungfromthesetowershighoverthelongplungeofthecataract。Butonemorningofthefatalspringafterthefirstwinter’sfrosthadtriedtheholdofthecableontherocks,anoldpeasantandhiswifewiththeirlittlegrandsonsetoutintheircarttopassthebridge。Astheydrewnearthemiddletheanchoringwiressuddenlylosttheirgripupontheshore,andwhirledintotheair;thebridgecrashedunderthehaplesspassengersandtheywerelaunchedfromitsheight,uponthevergeofthefallandthenceplunged,twohundredandfiftyfeet,intotheruinoftheabyss。 Thehabitansrebuilttheirbridgeofwooduponlowstonepiers,sofaruptheriverfromthecataractthatwhoeverfellfromitwouldyethavemanyachanceforlife;anditwouldhavebeenperiloustooffertoreplacethefallenstructure,which,inthebeliefoffaithfulChristians,clearlybelongedtothenumerousbridgesbuiltbytheDevil,intimeswhentheDevildidnotcallhimselfacivilengineer。 Thedriver,withjustunction,recountedthesadtaleashehaltedhishorsesonthebridge;andashispassengerslookeddowntherock-frettedbrowntorrenttowardsthefall,Isabelseizedtheoccasiontoshudderthatevershehadsetfootonthatsuspension-bridgebelowNiagara,andtoprovetoBasil’sconfusionthatherdoubtofthebridgesbetweentheThreeSisterswasnotacaseofnervesbutaninstinctivewisdomconcerningtheunsafetyofallbridgesofthatdesign。 FromthegateopeningintothegroundsaboutthefalltwoorthreelittleFrenchboys,whomtheyhadnotthehearttoforbid,rannoisilybeforethemwithcriesintheirsoleEnglish,“Thisway,sir“andledtowardaweather-beatensummer-housethattottereduponaprojectingrockabovethevergeofthecataract。Butourtouristsshooktheirheads,andturnedawayforamoredistantandlessdizzyenjoymentofthespectacle,thoughanycommandingpointwassufficientlychasmalandprecipitous。 TheloftybluffwasscoopedinwardfromtheSt。Lawrenceinavastirregularsemicircle,withcavernoushollows,onewithinanother,sinkingfarintoitssides,andnakedfromfoottocrest,ormeagrelywoodedhereandtherewithevergreen。Fromthecentralbrinkofthesegloomypurplechasmsthefoamycataractlauncheditself,andlikeacloud,“Alongtheclifftofallandpauseandfalldidseem。“ Isayacloud,becauseIfinditalreadysaidtomyhand,asitwere,inaprettyverse,andbecauseImustneedslikenMontmorencitosomethingthatissoftandlight。Yetaclouddoesnotrepresenttheglintingofthewaterinitsdownwardswoop;itislikesomebroadslopeofsun- smittensnow;butsnowiscoldlywhiteandopaque,andthishasacreamywarmthinitsluminousmass;andso,therehangsthecataractunsaidasbefore。Itisamysterythatanythingsograndshouldbesolovely,thatanythingsotenderlyfairinwhateveraspectshouldyetbesolargethatoneglancefailstocomprehenditall。Theruggedwildnessofthecliffsandhollowsaboutitissoftenedbyitsgraciousbeauty,whichhalfredeemsthevulgarityofthetimber-merchant’susesinsettingtheriveratworkinhissaw-millsandchokingitsoutletintotheSt。Lawrencewithraftsoflumberandrubbishofslabsandshingles。Nay,rather,itisaloneamidstthesethings,andtheeyetakesnoteofthembyaseparateeffort。 Ourtouristssankdownupontheturfthatcreptwithitswhiteclovertotheedgeoftheprecipice,andgazeddreamilyuponthefall,fillingtheirvisionwithitsexquisitecolorandform。BeingwiserthanI,theydidnottrytoutteritsloveliness;theywerecontenttofeelit,andtheperfectionoftheafternoon,whoselowsunslantingoverthelandscapegave,underthatpale,greenish-bluesky,apensivesentimentofautumntotheworld。Thecricketscriedamongstthegrass;thehesitatingchirpofbirdscamefromthetreeoverhead;ashaggycoltleftoffgrazinginthefieldandstalkeduptostareatthem;theirlittleguides,havingfoundthatthesepeoplehadnopleasureinthesightofsmallboysscufflingonthevergeofaprecipice,threwthemselvesalsodownuponthegrassandcroonedalong,longballadinamournfulminorkeyaboutsomemaidenwhosenamewasLaBelleAdeline。Itwasamomentofunmixedenjoymentforeverysense,andthroughalltheirbeingtheywereglad;whichconsidering,theyceasedtobeso,withadeepsigh,asonereasoningthathedreamsmustpresentlyawake。Theynevercouldhaveanemotionwithoutdesiringtoanalyzeit;butperhapstheirrapturewouldhaveceasedasswiftly,eveniftheyhadnottriedtomakeitafactofconsciousness。