第23章

类别:其他 作者:Henry David Thoreau字数:5929更新时间:18/12/27 09:08:02
Theshoreiscomposedofabeltofsmoothroundedwhitestoneslikepaving-stones,exceptingoneortwoshortsandbeaches,andissosteepthatinmanyplacesasingleleapwillcarryyouintowateroveryourhead;andwereitnotforitsremarkabletransparency,thatwouldbethelasttobeseenofitsbottomtillitroseontheoppositeside。Somethinkitisbottomless。Itisnowheremuddy,andacasualobserverwouldsaythattherewerenoweedsatallinit;andofnoticeableplants,exceptinthelittlemeadowsrecentlyoverflowed,whichdonotproperlybelongtoit,acloserscrutinydoesnotdetectaflagnorabulrush,norevenalily,yelloworwhite,butonlyafewsmallheart-leavesandpotamogetons,andperhapsawater-targetortwo;allwhichhoweverabathermightnotperceive;andtheseplantsarecleanandbrightliketheelementtheygrowin。Thestonesextendarodortwointothewater,andthenthebottomispuresand,exceptinthedeepestparts,wherethereisusuallyalittlesediment,probablyfromthedecayoftheleaveswhichhavebeenwaftedontoitsomanysuccessivefalls,andabrightgreenweedisbroughtuponanchorseveninmidwinter。 Wehaveoneotherpondjustlikethis,WhitePond,inNineAcreCorner,abouttwoandahalfmileswesterly;but,thoughIamacquaintedwithmostofthepondswithinadozenmilesofthiscentreIdonotknowathirdofthispureandwell-likecharacter。 Successivenationsperchancehavedrankat,admired,andfathomedit,andpassedaway,andstillitswaterisgreenandpellucidasever。Notanintermittingspring!PerhapsonthatspringmorningwhenAdamandEveweredrivenoutofEdenWaldenPondwasalreadyinexistence,andeventhenbreakingupinagentlespringrainaccompaniedwithmistandasoutherlywind,andcoveredwithmyriadsofducksandgeese,whichhadnotheardofthefall,whenstillsuchpurelakessufficedthem。Eventhenithadcommencedtoriseandfall,andhadclarifieditswatersandcoloredthemofthehuetheynowwear,andobtainedapatentofHeaventobetheonlyWaldenPondintheworldanddistillerofcelestialdews。Whoknowsinhowmanyunrememberednations’literaturesthishasbeentheCastalianFountain?orwhatnymphspresidedoveritintheGoldenAge?ItisagemofthefirstwaterwhichConcordwearsinhercoronet。 Yetperchancethefirstwhocametothiswellhaveleftsometraceoftheirfootsteps。Ihavebeensurprisedtodetectencirclingthepond,evenwhereathickwoodhasjustbeencutdownontheshore,anarrowshelf-likepathinthesteephillside,alternatelyrisingandfalling,approachingandrecedingfromthewater’sedge,asoldprobablyastheraceofmanhere,wornbythefeetofaboriginalhunters,andstillfromtimetotimeunwittinglytroddenbythepresentoccupantsoftheland。Thisisparticularlydistincttoonestandingonthemiddleofthepondinwinter,justafteralightsnowhasfallen,appearingasaclearundulatingwhiteline,unobscuredbyweedsandtwigs,andveryobviousaquarterofamileoffinmanyplaceswhereinsummeritishardlydistinguishablecloseathand。Thesnowreprintsit,asitwere,inclearwhitetypealto-relievo。Theornamentedgroundsofvillaswhichwillonedaybebuiltheremaystillpreservesometraceofthis。 Thepondrisesandfalls,butwhetherregularlyornot,andwithinwhatperiod,nobodyknows,though,asusual,manypretendtoknow。Itiscommonlyhigherinthewinterandlowerinthesummer,thoughnotcorrespondingtothegeneralwetanddryness。Icanrememberwhenitwasafootortwolower,andalsowhenitwasatleastfivefeethigher,thanwhenIlivedbyit。Thereisanarrowsand-barrunningintoit,withverydeepwaterononeside,onwhichIhelpedboilakettleofchowder,somesixrodsfromthemainshore,abouttheyear1824,whichithasnotbeenpossibletodofortwenty-fiveyears;and,ontheotherhand,myfriendsusedtolistenwithincredulitywhenItoldthem,thatafewyearslaterIwasaccustomedtofishfromaboatinasecludedcoveinthewoods,fifteenrodsfromtheonlyshoretheyknew,whichplacewaslongsinceconvertedintoameadow。Butthepondhasrisensteadilyfortwoyears,andnow,inthesummerof’52,isjustfivefeethigherthanwhenIlivedthere,orashighasitwasthirtyyearsago,andfishinggoesonagaininthemeadow。Thismakesadifferenceoflevel,attheoutside,ofsixorsevenfeet;andyetthewatershedbythesurroundinghillsisinsignificantinamount,andthisoverflowmustbereferredtocauseswhichaffectthedeepsprings。 Thissamesummerthepondhasbeguntofallagain。Itisremarkablethatthisfluctuation,whetherperiodicalornot,appearsthustorequiremanyyearsforitsaccomplishment。Ihaveobservedoneriseandapartoftwofalls,andIexpectthatadozenorfifteenyearshencethewaterwillagainbeaslowasIhaveeverknownit。 Flint’sPond,amileeastward,allowingforthedisturbanceoccasionedbyitsinletsandoutlets,andthesmallerintermediatepondsalso,sympathizewithWalden,andrecentlyattainedtheirgreatestheightatthesametimewiththelatter。Thesameistrue,asfarasmyobservationgoes,ofWhitePond。 ThisriseandfallofWaldenatlongintervalsservesthisuseatleast;thewaterstandingatthisgreatheightforayearormore,thoughitmakesitdifficulttowalkroundit,killstheshrubsandtreeswhichhavesprungupaboutitsedgesincethelastrise——pitchpines,birches,alders,aspens,andothers——and,fallingagain,leavesanunobstructedshore;for,unlikemanypondsandallwaterswhicharesubjecttoadailytide,itsshoreiscleanestwhenthewaterislowest。Onthesideofthepondnextmyhousearowofpitchpines,fifteenfeethigh,hasbeenkilledandtippedoverasifbyalever,andthusastopputtotheirencroachments;andtheirsizeindicateshowmanyyearshaveelapsedsincethelastrisetothisheight。Bythisfluctuationthepondassertsitstitletoashore,andthustheshoreisshorn,andthetreescannotholditbyrightofpossession。Thesearethelipsofthelake,onwhichnobeardgrows。Itlicksitschapsfromtimetotime。Whenthewaterisatitsheight,thealders,willows,andmaplessendforthamassoffibrousredrootsseveralfeetlongfromallsidesoftheirstemsinthewater,andtotheheightofthreeorfourfeetfromtheground,intheefforttomaintainthemselves;andIhaveknownthehighblueberrybushesabouttheshore,whichcommonlyproducenofruit,bearanabundantcropunderthesecircumstances。 Somehavebeenpuzzledtotellhowtheshorebecamesoregularlypaved。Mytownsmenhaveallheardthetradition——theoldestpeopletellmethattheyhearditintheiryouth——thatancientlytheIndianswereholdingapow-wowuponahillhere,whichroseashighintotheheavensasthepondnowsinksdeepintotheearth,andtheyusedmuchprofanity,asthestorygoes,thoughthisviceisoneofwhichtheIndianswereneverguilty,andwhiletheywerethusengagedthehillshookandsuddenlysank,andonlyoneoldsquaw,namedWalden,escaped,andfromherthepondwasnamed。Ithasbeenconjecturedthatwhenthehillshookthesestonesrolleddownitssideandbecamethepresentshore。Itisverycertain,atanyrate,thatoncetherewasnopondhere,andnowthereisone;andthisIndianfabledoesnotinanyrespectconflictwiththeaccountofthatancientsettlerwhomIhavementioned,whorememberssowellwhenhefirstcameherewithhisdivining-rod,sawathinvaporrisingfromthesward,andthehazelpointedsteadilydownward,andheconcludedtodigawellhere。Asforthestones,manystillthinkthattheyarehardlytobeaccountedforbytheactionofthewavesonthesehills;butIobservethatthesurroundinghillsareremarkablyfullofthesamekindofstones,sothattheyhavebeenobligedtopilethemupinwallsonbothsidesoftherailroadcutnearestthepond;and,moreover,therearemoststoneswheretheshoreismostabrupt;sothat,unfortunately,itisnolongeramysterytome。Idetectthepaver。IfthenamewasnotderivedfromthatofsomeEnglishlocality——SaffronWalden,forinstance——onemightsupposethatitwascalledoriginallyWalled-inPond。 Thepondwasmywellreadydug。Forfourmonthsintheyearitswaterisascoldasitispureatalltimes;andIthinkthatitisthenasgoodasany,ifnotthebest,inthetown。Inthewinter,allwaterwhichisexposedtotheairiscolderthanspringsandwellswhichareprotectedfromit。ThetemperatureofthepondwaterwhichhadstoodintheroomwhereIsatfromfiveo’clockintheafternoontillnoonthenextday,thesixthofMarch,1846,thethermometerhavingbeenupto65xor70xsomeofthetime,owingpartlytothesunontheroof,was42x,oronedegreecolderthanthewaterofoneofthecoldestwellsinthevillagejustdrawn。 ThetemperatureoftheBoilingSpringthesamedaywas45x,orthewarmestofanywatertried,thoughitisthecoldestthatIknowofinsummer,when,beside,shallowandstagnantsurfacewaterisnotmingledwithit。Moreover,insummer,Waldenneverbecomessowarmasmostwaterwhichisexposedtothesun,onaccountofitsdepth。 InthewarmestweatherIusuallyplacedapailfulinmycellar,whereitbecamecoolinthenight,andremainedsoduringtheday; thoughIalsoresortedtoaspringintheneighborhood。Itwasasgoodwhenaweekoldasthedayitwasdipped,andhadnotasteofthepump。Whoevercampsforaweekinsummerbytheshoreofapond,needsonlyburyapailofwaterafewfeetdeepintheshadeofhiscamptobeindependentoftheluxuryofice。 TherehavebeencaughtinWaldenpickerel,oneweighingsevenpounds——tosaynothingofanotherwhichcarriedoffareelwithgreatvelocity,whichthefishermansafelysetdownateightpoundsbecausehedidnotseehim——perchandpouts,someofeachweighingovertwopounds,shiners,chivinsorroach(Leuciscuspulchellus),averyfewbreams,andacoupleofeels,oneweighingfourpounds——I amthusparticularbecausetheweightofafishiscommonlyitsonlytitletofame,andthesearetheonlyeelsIhaveheardofhere;—— also,Ihaveafaintrecollectionofalittlefishsomefiveincheslong,withsilverysidesandagreenishback,somewhatdace-likeinitscharacter,whichImentionherechieflytolinkmyfactstofable。Nevertheless,thispondisnotveryfertileinfish。Itspickerel,thoughnotabundant,areitschiefboast。Ihaveseenatonetimelyingontheicepickerelofatleastthreedifferentkinds:alongandshallowone,steel-colored,mostlikethosecaughtintheriver;abrightgoldenkind,withgreenishreflectionsandremarkablydeep,whichisthemostcommonhere;andanother,golden-colored,andshapedlikethelast,butpepperedonthesideswithsmalldarkbrownorblackspots,intermixedwithafewfaintblood-redones,verymuchlikeatrout。Thespecificnamereticulatuswouldnotapplytothis;itshouldbeguttatusrather。 Theseareallveryfirmfish,andweighmorethantheirsizepromises。Theshiners,pouts,andperchalso,andindeedallthefisheswhichinhabitthispond,aremuchcleaner,handsomer,andfirmer-fleshedthanthoseintheriverandmostotherponds,asthewaterispurer,andtheycaneasilybedistinguishedfromthem。 Probablymanyichthyologistswouldmakenewvarietiesofsomeofthem。Therearealsoacleanraceoffrogsandtortoises,andafewmusselsinit;muskratsandminksleavetheirtracesaboutit,andoccasionallyatravellingmud-turtlevisitsit。Sometimes,whenI pushedoffmyboatinthemorning,Idisturbedagreatmud-turtlewhichhadsecretedhimselfundertheboatinthenight。Ducksandgeesefrequentitinthespringandfall,thewhite-belliedswallows(Hirundobicolor)skimoverit,andthepeetweets(Totanusmacularius)“teeter“alongitsstonyshoresallsummer。Ihavesometimesdisturbedafishhawksittingonawhitepineoverthewater;butIdoubtifitiseverprofanedbythewindofagull,likeFairHaven。Atmost,ittoleratesoneannualloon。Thesearealltheanimalsofconsequencewhichfrequentitnow。 Youmayseefromaboat,incalmweather,nearthesandyeasternshore,wherethewateriseightortenfeetdeep,andalsoinsomeotherpartsofthepond,somecircularheapshalfadozenfeetindiameterbyafootinheight,consistingofsmallstoneslessthanahen’segginsize,whereallaroundisbaresand。AtfirstyouwonderiftheIndianscouldhaveformedthemontheiceforanypurpose,andso,whentheicemelted,theysanktothebottom;buttheyaretooregularandsomeofthemplainlytoofreshforthat。Theyaresimilartothosefoundinrivers;butastherearenosuckersnorlampreyshere,Iknownotbywhatfishtheycouldbemade。Perhapstheyarethenestsofthechivin。Theselendapleasingmysterytothebottom。 Theshoreisirregularenoughnottobemonotonous。Ihaveinmymind’seyethewestern,indentedwithdeepbays,theboldernorthern,andthebeautifullyscallopedsouthernshore,wheresuccessivecapesoverlapeachotherandsuggestunexploredcovesbetween。Theforesthasneversogoodasetting,norissodistinctlybeautiful,aswhenseenfromthemiddleofasmalllakeamidhillswhichrisefromthewater’sedge;forthewaterinwhichitisreflectednotonlymakesthebestforegroundinsuchacase,but,withitswindingshore,themostnaturalandagreeableboundarytoit。Thereisnorawnessnorimperfectioninitsedgethere,aswheretheaxehasclearedapart,oracultivatedfieldabutsonit。 Thetreeshaveampleroomtoexpandonthewaterside,andeachsendsforthitsmostvigorousbranchinthatdirection。ThereNaturehaswovenanaturalselvage,andtheeyerisesbyjustgradationsfromthelowshrubsoftheshoretothehighesttrees。 Therearefewtracesofman’shandtobeseen。Thewaterlavestheshoreasitdidathousandyearsago。