第22章

类别:其他 作者:George Borrow字数:10860更新时间:19/01/07 15:19:18
Ashewasstandingbeforealongbuilding,throughtheopendoorofwhichasoundproceededlikethatofpreaching,Iaskedhimwhatplaceitwas,andwhatwasgoingoninit,andreceivedforanswerthatitwastheNationalSchool,andthattherewasaclergymanpreachinginit。IthenaskediftheclergymanwasoftheChurch,andonlearningthathewas,Iforthwithenteredthebuilding,whereinoneendofalongroomIsawayoungmaninawhitesurplicepreachingfromadesktoaboutthirtyorfortypeople,whowereseatedonbenchesbeforehim。Isatdownandlistened。Theyoungmanpreachedwithgreatzealandfluency。Thesermonwasaveryseasonableone,beingabouttheharvest,andinitthingstemporalandspiritualwereveryhappilyblended。ThepartofthesermonwhichIheard—IregrettedthatIdidnothearthewhole— lastedaboutfive—and—twentyminutes:ahymnfollowed,andthenthecongregationbrokeup。Iinquiredthenameoftheyoungmanwhopreached,andwastoldthatitwasEdwards,andthathecamefromCaernarvon。ThenameoftheincumbentoftheparishwasThomas。 LeavingthevillageoftheharvestsermonIproceededonmywaywhichlaytothesouth—east。IwasnowdrawingnightothemountainousdistrictofEryri;anoblehillcalledMountEilioappearedbeforemetothenorth;animmensemountaincalledPenDrwsCoedlayoveragainstitonthesouth,justlikeacouchantelephantwithitsheadlowerthanthetopofitsback。AfteratimeIenteredamostbeautifulsunnyvalley,andpresentlycametoabridgeoverapleasantstreamrunninginthedirectionofthesouth。AsIstooduponthatbridgeIalmostfanciedmyselfinParadise;everythinglookedsobeautifulorgrand—green,sunnymeadowslayallaroundme,intersectedbythebrook,thewatersofwhichranwithtinklinglaughteroverashinglybottom。NobleEiliotothenorth;enormousPenDrwsCoedtothesouth;atallmountainfarbeyondthemtotheeast。\"Ineverwasinsuchalovelyspot!\"Icriedtomyselfinaperfectrapture。\"Oh,howgladIshouldbetolearnthenameofthisbridge,standingonwhichIhavehad’Heavenopenedtome,’asmyoldfriendstheSpaniardsusedtosay。\"ScarcelyhadIsaidthesewordswhenI observedamanandawomancomingtowardsthebridgeinthedirectioninwhichIwasbound。Ihastenedtomeettheminthehopeofobtaininginformation。Theywerebothratheryoung,andwereprobablyacoupleofsweetheartstakingawalkorreturningfrommeeting。Thewomanwasafewstepsinadvanceoftheman; seeingthatIwasabouttoaddressher,sheavertedherheadandquickenedhersteps,andbeforeIhadcompletedthequestion,whichIputtoherinWelsh,shehadboltedpastmescreaming\"AhDimSeasneg,\"andwasseveralyardsdistant。 Ithenaddressedmyselftothemanwhohadstopped,askinghimthenameofthebridge。 \"PontBettws,\"hereplied。 \"Andwhatmaybethenameoftheriver?\"saidI。 \"Afon—something,\"saidhe。 Andonmythankinghimhewentforwardtothewomanwhowaswaitingforhimbythebridge。 \"IsthatmanWelshorEnglish?\"Iheardhersaywhenhehadrejoinedher。 \"Idon’tknow,\"saidtheman—\"hewascivilenough;whywereyousuchafool?\" \"Oh,IthoughthewouldspeaktomeinEnglish,\"saidthewoman,\"andthethoughtofthathorridEnglishputsmeintosuchaflutter;youknowIcan’tspeakawordofit。\" TheyproceededontheirwayandIproceededonmine,andpresentlycomingtoalittleinnontheleftsideoftheway,attheentranceofavillage,Iwentin。 Arespectable—lookingmanandwomanwereseatedatteaatatableinanicecleankitchen。Isatdownonachairnearthetable,andcalledforale—thealewasbroughtmeinajug—Idranksome,putthejugonthetable,andbegantodiscoursewiththepeopleinWelsh。Ahandsomedogwasseatedontheground;suddenlyitlaidoneofitspawsonitsmaster’sknee。 \"Down,Perro,\"saidhe。 \"Perro!\"saidI;\"whydoyoucallthedogPerro?\" \"WecallhimPerro,\"saidtheman,\"becausehisnameisPerro。\" \"Buthowcameyoutogivehimthatname?\"saidI。 \"Wedidnotgiveittohim,\"saidtheman—\"heborethatnamewhenhecameintoourhands;afarmergavehimtouswhenhewasveryyoung,andtoldushisnamewasPerro。\" \"AndhowcamethefarmertocallhimPerro?\"saidI。 \"Idon’tknow,\"saidtheman—\"whydoyouask?\" \"Perro,\"saidI,\"isaSpanishword,andsignifiesadogingeneral。IamrathersurprisedthatadoginthemountainsofWalesshouldbecalledbytheSpanishwordfordog。\"Ifellintoafitofmusing。\"HowSpanishwordsarediffused!WhereveryougoyouwillfindsomeSpanishwordorotherinuse。IhaveheardSpanishwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers—I havethisdayheardaSpanishwordinthemountainsofWales,andI havenodoubtthatwereItogotoIcelandIshouldfindSpanishwordsusedthere。HowcanIdoubtit;whenIreflectthatmorethansixhundredyearsago,oneofthewordstodenoteabadwomanwasSpanish。IntheoldestofIcelandicdomesticSagas,Skarphedin,thesonofNialtheseer,calledHallgerdr,widowofGunnar,aputa—andthatwordsomaddenedHallgerdrthatsheneverrestedtillshehadbroughtabouthisdestruction。Now,whythispreferenceeverywhereforSpanishwordsoverthoseofeveryotherlanguage?IneverheardFrenchwordsorGermanwordsusedbyRussianmujiksandTurkishfig—gatherers。IquestionwhetherI shouldfindanyinIcelandformingpartofthevernacular。I certainlyneverfoundaFrenchorevenaGermanwordinanoldIcelandicSaga。WhythispartialityeverywhereforSpanishwords? thequestionispuzzling;atanyrateitputsmeout—\" \"Yes,itputsmeout!\"Iexclaimedaloud,strikingmyfistonthetablewithavehemencewhichcausedthegoodfolkstostarthalfupfromtheirseats。Beforetheycouldsayanything,however,avehicledroveuptothedoor,andamangettingoutcameintotheroom。Hehadaglazedhatonhishead,andwasdressedsomethingliketheguardofamail。Hetouchedhishattome,andcalledforaglassofwhiskey。IgavehimtheseleoftheeveningandenteredintoconversationwithhiminEnglish。InthecourseofdiscourseIlearnedthathewasthepostman,andwasgoinghisroundsinhiscart—hewasmorethanrespectfultome,hewasfawningandsycophantic。Thewhiskeywasbrought,andhestoodwiththeglassinhishand。SuddenlyhebeganspeakingWelshtothepeople; before,however,hehadutteredtwosentencesthewomanliftedherhandwithanalarmedair,crying\"Hush!heunderstands。\"Thefellowwasturningmetoridicule。Iflungmyheadback,closedmyeyes,openedmymouthandlaughedaloud。Thefellowstoodaghast; hishandtrembled,andhespiltthegreaterpartofthewhiskeyupontheground。AttheendofabouthalfaminuteIgotup,askedwhatIhadtopay,andonbeingtoldtwopence,Iputdownthemoney。ThengoinguptothemanIputmyrightforefingerveryneartohisnose,andsaid\"Dwyoiaithdwyowyneb,twolanguages,twofaces,friend!\"ThenafterleeringathimforamomentI wishedthepeopleofthehousegood—eveninganddeparted。 WalkingrapidlyontowardstheeastIsoondrewneartheterminationofthevalley。ThevalleyterminatesinadeepgorgeorpassbetweenMountEilio—whichby—the—byeispartofthechineofSnowdon—andPenDrwsCoed。Thelatter,thatcouchantelephantwithitsheadturnedtothenorth—east,seemsasifitwishedtobarthepasswithitstrunk;byitstrunkImeanakindofjaggyridgewhichdescendsdowntotheroad。Ienteredthegorge,passingnearalittlewaterfallwhichwithmuchnoiserunsdowntheprecipitoussideofMountEilio;presentlyIcametoalittlemillbythesideofabrookrunningtowardstheeast。Iaskedthemiller—woman,whowasstandingnearthemill,withherheadturnedtowardsthesettingsun,thenameofthemillandthestream。\"Themilliscalled’ThemilloftheriverofLakeCwellyn,’\"saidshe,\"andtheriveriscalledtheriverofLakeCwellyn。\" \"Andwhoownstheland?\"saidI。 \"SirRichard,\"saidshe。\"ISirRichardywynperthynytir。MrWilliams,however,possessessomepartofMountEilio。\" \"AndwhoisMrWilliams?\"saidI。 \"WhoisMrWilliams?\"saidthemiller’swife。\"Ho,ho!whatastrangeryoumustbetoaskmewhoisMrWilliams。\" Ismiledandpassedon。Themillwasbelowtheleveloftheroad,anditswheelwasturnedbythewaterofalittleconduitsuppliedbythebrookatsomedistanceabovethemill。IhadobservedsimilarconduitsemployedforsimilarpurposesinCornwall。A littlebelowthemillwasaweir,andalittlebelowtheweirtheriverranfrothingpasttheextremeendoftheelephant’ssnout。 FollowingthecourseoftheriverIatlastemergedwithitfromthepassintoavalleysurroundedbyenormousmountains。Extendingalongitfromwesttoeast,andoccupyingitsentiresouthernpartlayanoblongpieceofwater,intowhichthestreamletofthepassdischargeditself。Thiswasoneofthemanybeautifullakes,whichafewdaysbeforeIhadseenfromtheWyddfa。AsfortheWyddfaI nowbeheldithighabovemeinthenorth—eastlookingverygrandindeed,shininglikeasilverhelmetwhilstcatchingthegloriesofthesettingsun。 Iproceededslowlyalongtheroad,thelakebelowmeonmyrighthand,whilsttheshelvysideofSnowdonroseabovemeontheleft。 Theeveningwascalmandstill,andnonoisecameuponmyearsavethesoundofacascadefallingintothelakefromablackmountain,whichfrownedaboveitonthesouth,andcastagloomyshadowfaroverit。 Thiscataractwasintheneighbourhoodofasingular—lookingrock,projectingabovethelakefromthemountain’sside。Iwanderedaconsiderablewaywithoutmeetingorseeingasinglehumanbeing。 AtlastwhenIhadnearlygainedtheeasternendofthevalleyI sawtwomenseatedonthesideofthehill,onthevergeoftheroad,inthevicinityofahousewhichstoodalittlewayupthehill。ThelakeherewasmuchwiderthanIhadhithertoseenit,forthehugemountainonthesouthhadterminatedandthelakeexpandedconsiderablyinthatquarter,havinginsteadoftheblackmountainabeautifulhillbeyondit。 Iquickenedmystepsandsooncameuptothetwoindividuals。Onewasanelderlyman,dressedinasmockfrockandwithahairycaponhishead。Theotherwasmuchyounger,woreahat,andwasdressedinacoarsesuitofbluenearlynew,anddoubtlesshisSunday’sbest。Hewassmokingapipe。IgreetedtheminEnglishandsatdownnearthem。Theyrespondedinthesamelanguage,theyoungermanwithconsiderablecivilityandbriskness,theotherinatoneofvoicedenotingsomereserve。 \"MayIaskthenameofthislake?\"saidI,addressingmyselftotheyoungmanwhosatbetweenmeandtheelderlyone。 \"ItsnameisLlynCwellyn,sir,\"saidhe,takingthepipeoutofhismouth。\"Andafinelakeitis。\" \"Plentyoffishinit?\"Idemanded。 \"Plenty,sir;plentyoftroutandpikeandchar。\" \"Isitdeep?\"saidI。 \"Neartheshoreitisshallow,sir,butinthemiddleandneartheothersideitisdeep,sodeepthatnooneknowshowdeepitis。\" \"Whatisthename,\"saidI,\"ofthegreatblackmountainthereontheotherside?\" \"ItiscalledMynyddMawrortheGreatMountain。Yonderrock,whichbulksoutfromit,downthelakeyonder,andwhichyoupassedasyoucamealong,iscalledCastellCidwm,whichmeansWolf’srockorcastle。\" \"Didawolfeverlivethere?\"Idemanded。 \"Perhapsso,\"saidtheman,\"forIhaveheardsaythattherewerewolvesofoldinWales。\" \"Andwhatisthenameofthebeautifulhillyonder,beforeusacrossthewater?\" \"That,sir,iscalledCairnDrwsyCoed,\"saidtheman。 \"Thestoneheapofthegateofthewood,\"saidI。 \"AreyouWelsh,sir?\"saidtheman。 \"No,\"saidI,\"butIknowsomethingofthelanguageofWales。I supposeyouliveinthathouse?\" \"Notexactly,sir,myfather—in—lawherelivesinthathouse,andmywifewithhim。Iamaminer,andspendsixdaysintheweekatmymine,buteverySundayIcomehereandpassthedaywithmywifeandhim。\" \"Andwhatprofessiondoeshefollow?\"saidI;\"isheafisherman?\" \"Fisherman!\"saidtheelderlymancontemptuously,\"notI。IamtheSnowdonRanger。\" \"Andwhatisthat?\"saidI。 Theelderlymantossedhisheadproudly,andmadenoreply。 \"Arangermeansaguide,sir,\"saidtheyoungerman;\"myfather—in— lawisgenerallytermedtheSnowdonRangerbecauseheisatip—topguide,andhehasnamedthehouseafterhimtheSnowdonRanger。HeentertainsgentlemeninitwhoputthemselvesunderhisguidanceinordertoascendSnowdonandtoseethecountry。\" \"Thereissomedifferenceinyourprofessions,\"said\"hedealsinheights,youindepths,both,however,arebreak—neckytrades。\" \"Irunmoreriskfromgunpowderthananythingelse,\"saidtheyoungerman。\"Iamaslate—miner,andamcontinuallyblasting。I have,however,hadmyfalls。Areyougoingfarto—night,sir?\" \"IamgoingtoBethGelert,\"saidI。 \"Agoodsixmiles,sir,fromhere。DoyoucomefromCaernarvon?\" \"Fartherthanthat,\"saidI。\"IcomefromBangor。\" \"To—day,sir,andwalking?\" \"To—day,andwalking。\" \"Youmustberathertired,sir,youcamealongthevalleyveryslowly。\" \"Iamnotintheslightestdegreetired,\"saidI;\"whenIstartfromhere,Ishallputonmybestpace,andsoongettoBethGelert。\" \"Anybodycangetalongoverlevelground,\"saidtheoldman,laconically。 \"Notwithequalswiftness,\"saidI。\"Idoassureyou,friend,tobeabletomoveatagoodswingingpaceoverlevelgroundissomethingnottobesneezedat。Not,\"saidI,liftingupmyvoice,\"thatIwouldforamomentcomparewalkingonthelevelgroundtomountainranging,pacingalongtheroadtospringingupcragslikeamountaingoat,orassertthatevenPowellhimself,thefirstofallroadwalkers,wasentitledtosobrightawreathoffameastheSnowdonRanger。\" \"Won’tyouwalkin,sir?\"saidtheelderlyman。 \"No,Ithankyou,\"saidI,\"Iprefersittingoutheregazingonthelakeandthenoblemountains。\" \"Iwishyouwould,sir,\"saidtheelderlyman,\"andtakeaglassofsomething;Iwillchargeyounothing。\" \"Thankyou,\"saidI,\"Iaminwantofnothing,andshallpresentlystart。DomanypeopleascendSnowdonfromyourhouse?\" \"NotsomanyasIcouldwish,\"saidtheranger;\"peopleingeneralpreferascendingSnowdonfromthattrumperyplaceBethGelert;butthosewhodoarefools—beggingyourhonour’spardon。TheplacetoascendSnowdonfromismyhouse。ThewayfrommyhouseupSnowdoniswonderfulfortheromanticscenerywhichitaffords; thatfromBethGelertcan’tbenamedinthesamedaywithitforscenery;moreover,frommyhouseyoumayhavethebestguideinWales;whereastheguidesofBethGelert—butIsaynothing。IfyourhonourisboundfortheWyddfa,asIsupposeyouare,youhadbetterstartfrommyhouseto—morrowundermyguidance。\" \"IhavealreadybeenuptheWyddfafromLlanberis,\"saidI,\"andamnowgoingthroughBethGelerttoLlangollen,wheremyfamilyare; wereIgoingupSnowdonagainIshouldmostcertainlystartfromyourhouseunderyourguidance,andwereInotinahurryatpresent,Iwouldcertainlytakeupmyquartershereforaweek,andeverydaysnakeexcursionswithyouintotherecessesofEryri。I supposeyouareacquaintedwithallthesecretsofthehills?\" \"Trusttheoldrangerforthat,yourhonour。Iwouldshowyourhonourtheblacklakeinthefrightfulhollowinwhichthefisheshavemonstrousheadsandlittlebodies,thelakeonwhichneitherswan,ducknoranykindofwildfowlwaseverseentolight。ThenI wouldshowyourhonourthefountainofthehoppingcreatures,where,where—\" \"WereyoueveratthatWolf’scrag,thatCastellyCidwm?\"saidI。 \"Can’tsayIeverwas,yourhonour。Youseeitliessocloseby,justacrossthelake,that—\" \"Youthoughtyoucouldseeitanyday,andsoneverwent,\"saidI。 \"Canyoutellmewhetherthereareanyruinsuponit?\" \"Ican’t,yourhonour。\" \"Ishouldn’twonder,\"saidI,\"ifinoldtimesitwasthestrongholdofsomerobber—chieftain;cidwmintheoldWelshisfrequentlyappliedtoaferociousman。CastellCidwm,Ishouldthink,ratheroughttobetranslatedtherobber’scastlethanthewolf’srock。IfIevercomeintothesepartsagainyouandIwillvisitittogether,andseewhatkindofplaceitis。Nowfarewell! Itisgettinglate。\"Ithendeparted。 \"Whatanicegentleman!\"saidtheyoungerman,whenIwasafewyardsdistant。 \"Ineversawanicergentleman,\"saidtheoldranger。 Ispedalong,Snowdononmyleft,thelakeonmyright,andthetipofamountainpeakrightbeforemeintheeast。AfteralittletimeIlookedback;whatascene!Thesilverlakeandtheshadowymountainoveritssouthernsidelookingnow,methought,verymuchlikeGibraltar。Ilingeredandlingered,gazingandgazing,andatlastonlybyanefforttoremyselfaway。Theeveninghadnowbecomedelightfullycoolinthislandofwonders。OnIsped,passingbytwonoisybrookscomingfromSnowdontopaytributetothelake。AndnowIhadleftthelakeandthevalleybehind,andwasascendingahill。AsIgaineditssummit,uprosethemoontocheermyway。Inalittletime,awildstonygorgeconfrontedme,astreamrandownthegorgewithhollowroar,abridgelayacrossit。IaskedafigurewhomIsawstandingbythebridgetheplace’sname。\"Rhyddu\"—theblackford—Icrossedthebridge。ThevoiceoftheMethodistwasyellingfromalittlechapelonmyleft。 Iwenttothedoorandlistened:\"WhenthesinnertakesholdofGod,Godtakesholdofthesinner。\"Thevoicewasfrightfullyhoarse。Ipassedon:nightfellfastaroundme,andthemountaintothesouth—east,towardswhichIwastending,lookedblacklygrand。AndnowIcametoamilestoneonwhichIreadwithdifficulty:\"ThreemilestoBethGelert。\"Thewayforsometimehadbeenupward,butnowitwasdownward。Ireachedatorrent,whichcomingfromthenorth—westrushedunderabridge,overwhichIpassed。ThetorrentattendedmeonmyrighthandthewholewaytoBethGelert。Thedescentnowbecameveryrapid。Ipassedapinewoodonmyleft,andproceededformorethantwomilesatatremendousrate。Ithencametoawood—thiswoodwasjustaboveBethGelert—proceedinginthedirectionofablackmountain,I foundmyselfamongsthouses,atthebottomofavalley。Ipassedoverabridge,andinquiringofsomepeoplewhomImetthewaytotheinn,wasshownanedificebrilliantlylightedup,whichI entered。 CHAPTERXLV InnatBethGelert—DelectableCompany—LieutenantP—。 THEinnorhotelatBethGelertwasalargeandcommodiousbuilding,andwasanythingbutthrongedwithcompany;whatcompany,however,therewas,wasdisagreeableenough,perhapsmoresothanthatinwhichIhadbeentheprecedingevening,whichwascomposedofthescumofManchesterandLiverpool;thecompanyamongstwhichInowwas,consistedofsevenoreightindividuals,twoofthemweremilitarypuppies,oneatallishfellow,whothoughevidentlyupwardsofthirty,affectedtheairsofalanguishinggirl,andwouldfainhavemadepeoplebelievethathewasdyingofENNUIandlassitude。Theotherwasashortspuddyfellow,withabroaduglyfaceandwithspectaclesonhisnose,whotalkedveryconsequentiallyabout\"theservice\"andallthat,butwhosetoneofvoicewascoarseandhismannerthatofanunder—bredperson;thentherewasanoldfellowaboutsixty—five,acivilian,witharedcarbuncledface;hewasfatherofthespuddymilitarypuppy,onwhomheoccasionallycasteyesofprideandalmostadoration,andwhosesayingshemuchapplauded,especiallycertainDOUBLES ENTENDRES,tocallthembynoharsherterm,directedtoafatgirl,weighingsomefifteenstone,whoofficiatedinthecoffee—roomaswaiter。ThentherewasacreaturetodojusticetowhoseappearancewouldrequirethepencilofaHogarth。Hewasaboutfivefeetthreeinchesandaquarterhigh,andmighthaveweighed,alwaysprovidedastoneweighthadbeenattachedtohim,abouthalfasmuchasthefatgirl。Hiscountenancewascadaverousandwaseternallyagitatedbysomethingbetweenagrinandasimper。Hewasdressedinastyleofsuperfinegentility,andhisskeletonfingerswerebedizenedwithtawdryrings。Hisconversationwaschieflyabouthisbileandhissecretions,theefficacyoflicoriceinproducingacertaineffect,andtheexpediencyofchangingone’slinenatleastthreetimesaday;thoughhadhechangedhissix,I shouldhavesaidthatthepurificationofthelastshirtwouldhavebeennosinecuretothelaundress。HisaccentwasdecidedlyScotch:hespokefamiliarlyofScottandoneortwootherScotchworthies,andmorethanonceinsinuatedthathewasamemberofParliament。WithrespecttotherestofthecompanyIsaynothing,andfortheverysufficientreasonthat,unliketheabovedescribedbatch,theydidnotseemdisposedtobeimpertinenttowardsme。 EagertogetoutofsuchsocietyIretiredearlytobed。AsIlefttheroomthediminutiveScotchindividualwasdescribingtotheoldsimpleton,whoonthegroundoftheother’sbeinga\"member,\"waslisteningtohimwithextremeattention,howhewaslabouringunderanaccessofbileowingtohishavinglefthislicoricesomewhereorother。Ipassedaquietnight,andinthemorningbreakfasted,paidmybill,anddeparted。AsIwentoutofthecoffee—roomthespuddy,broad—facedmilitarypuppywithspectacleswasvociferatingtothelanguishingmilitarypuppy,andtohisoldsimpletonofafather,whowaslisteningtohimwithhisusuallookofundisguisedadmiration,abouttheabsolutenecessityofkickingLieutenantP— outofthearmyforhavingdisgraced\"theservice。\"PoorP—,whoseonlycrimewastryingtodefendhimselfwithfistandcandlestickfromthemanualattacksofhisbrutalmessmates。 CHAPTERXLVI TheValleyofGelert—LegendoftheDog—MagnificentScenery— TheKnicht—GoatsinWales—TheFrightfulCrag—TemperanceHouse—SmileandCurtsey。 BETHGELERTissituatedinavalleysurroundedbyhugehills,themostremarkableofwhichareMoelHebogandCerrigLlan;theformerfencesitonthesouth,andthelatter,whichisquiteblackandnearlyperpendicular,ontheeast。Asmallstreamrushesthroughthevalley,andsalliesforthbyapassatitssouth—easternend。 ThevalleyissaidbysometoderiveitsnameofBeddgelert,whichsignifiesthegraveofCelert,frombeingtheburial—placeofCelert,aBritishsaintofthesixthcentury,towhomLlangelerinCarmarthenshireisbelievedtohavebeenconsecrated,butthepopularandmostuniversallyreceivedtraditionisthatithasitsnamefrombeingtheresting—placeofafaithfuldogcalledCelertorGelert,killedbyhismaster,thewarlikeandcelebratedLlywelynabJorwerth,fromanunluckymisapprehension。Thoughthelegendisknowntomostpeople,Ishalltakethelibertyofrelatingit。 LlywelynduringhiscontestswiththeEnglishhadencampedwithafewfollowersinthevalley,andonedaydepartedwithhismenonanexpedition,leavinghisinfantsoninacradleinhistent,underthecareofhishoundGelert,aftergivingthechilditsfillofgoat’smilk。Whilsthewasabsentawolffromtheneighbouringmountains,inquestofprey,founditswayintothetent,andwasabouttodevourthechild,whenthewatchfuldoginterfered,andafteradesperateconflict,inwhichthetentwastorndown,succeededindestroyingthemonster。Llywelynreturningateveningfoundthetentontheground,andthedog,coveredwithblood,sittingbesideit。ImaginingthatthebloodwithwhichGelertwasbesmearedwasthatofhisownsondevouredbytheanimaltowhosecarehehadconfidedhim,Llywelyninaparoxysmofnaturalindignationforthwithtransfixedthefaithfulcreaturewithhisspear。Scarcely,however,hadhedonesowhenhisearswerestartledbythecryofachildfrombeneaththefallentent,andhastilyremovingthecanvashefoundthechildinitscradle,quiteuninjured,andthebodyofanenormouswolf,frightfullytornandmangled,lyingnear。Hisbreastwasnowfilledwithconflictingemotions,joyforthepreservationofhisson,andgriefforthefateofhisdog,towhomheforthwithhastened。Thepooranimalwasnotquitedead,butpresentlyexpired,intheactoflickinghismaster’shand。Llywelynmournedoverhimasoverabrother,buriedhimwithfuneralhonoursinthevalley,anderectedatomboverhimasoverahero。FromthattimethevalleywascalledBethGelert。 Suchisthelegend,which,whethertrueorfictitious,issingularlybeautifulandaffecting。 Thetomb,orwhatissaidtobethetomb,ofGelert,standsinabeautifulmeadowjustbelowtheprecipitoussideofCerrigLlan: itconsistsofalargeslablyingonitsside,andtwouprightstones。Itisshadedbyaweepingwillow,andissurroundedbyahexagonalpaling。Whoisthereacquaintedwiththelegend,whetherhebelievesthatthedogliesbeneaththosestonesornot,canvisitthemwithoutexclaimingwithasigh,\"PoorGelert!\" Afterwanderingaboutthevalleyforsometime,andseeingafewofitswonders,IinquiredmywayforFestiniog,andsetoffforthatplace。Thewaytoitisthroughthepassatthesouth—eastendofthevalley。ArrivedattheentranceofthepassIturnedroundtolookatthesceneryIwasleavingbehindme;theviewwhichpresenteditselftomyeyeswasverygrandandbeautiful。BeforemelaythemeadowofGelertwiththeriverflowingthroughittowardsthepass。BeyondthemeadowtheSnowdonrange;ontherightthemightyCerrigLlan;onthelefttheequallymighty,butnotquitesoprecipitous,Hebog。Truly,thevalleyofGelertisawondrousvalley—rivallingforgrandeurandbeautyanyvaleeitherintheAlpsorPyrenees。AfteralongandearnestviewIturnedroundagainandproceededonmyway。