dustysurlycountenance。IaskedhiminWelshifIwasintherightdirectionforWrexham，heansweredinasurlymannerinEnglish，thatIwas。IagainspoketohiminWelsh，makingsomeindifferentobservationontheweather，andheansweredinEnglishyetmoregrufflythanbefore。ForthethirdtimeIspoketohiminWelsh，whereuponlookingatmewithagrinofsavagecontempt，andshowingasetofteethlikethoseofamastiff，hesaid，\"How’sthis？whyyouhaven’tawordofEnglish？Aprettyfellowyou，withalongcoatonyourbackandnoEnglishonyourtongue，an’tyouashamedofyourself？Why，hereamIinashortcoat，yetI’dhaveyoutoknowthatIcanspeakEnglishaswellasWelsh，ayeandagooddealbetter。\"\"Allpeoplearenotequallyclebber，\"saidI，stillspeakingWelsh。\"Clebber，\"saidhe，\"clebber！whatisclebber？whycan’tyousayclever！Why，Ineversawsuchalow，illiteratefellowinmylife；\"andwiththesewordsheturnedawaywitheverymarkofdisdain，andenteredacottagenearathand。
\"HereIhavehad，\"saidItomyself，asIproceededonmyway，\"topayfortheover—praisewhichIlatelyreceived。Thefarmerontheothersideofthemountaincalledmeapersonofgreatintelligence，whichIneverpretendedtobe，andnowthiscolliercallsmealow，illiteratefellow，whichIreallydon’tthinkIam。
ThereiscertainlyaNemesismixedupwiththeaffairsofthisworld；everygoodthingwhichyouget，beyondwhatisstrictlyyourdue，issuretoberequiredfromyouwithavengeance。Alittleover—praisebyagreatdealofunderrating—agleamofgoodfortunebyanightofmisery。\"
InowsawWrexhamChurchataboutthedistanceofthreemiles，andpresentlyenteredalanewhichledgentlydownfromthehills，whichwerethesameheightsIhadseenonmyrighthand，somemonthspreviously，onmywayfromWrexhamtoRhiwabon。Thescenerynowbecameverypretty—hedge—rowswereoneitherside，aluxurianceoftreesandplentyofgreenfields。Ireachedthebottomofthelane，beyondwhichIsawastrange—lookinghouseuponaslopeontherighthand。Itwasverylarge，ruinous，andseeminglydeserted。Alittlebeyonditwasafarm—house，connectedwithwhichwasalongrowoffarmingbuildingsalongtheroad—side。
Seeingawomanseatedknittingatthedoorofalittlecottage，I
askedherinEnglishthenameoftheold，ruinoushouse？
\"CadoganHall，sir，\"shereplied。
\"Andwhomdoesitbelongto？\"saidI。
\"Idon’tknowexactly，\"repliedthewoman，\"butMrMorrisatthefarmholdsit，andstowshisthingsinit。\"
\"Canyoutellmeanythingaboutit？\"saidI。
\"Nothingfarther，\"saidthewoman，\"thanthatitissaidtobehaunted，andtohavebeenabarrackmanyyearsago。\"
\"CanyouspeakWelsh？\"saidI。
\"No，\"saidthewoman，\"IareWelshbuthavenoWelshlanguage。\"
LeavingthewomanIputonmybestspeedandinabouthalfanhourreachedWrexham。
ThefirstthingIdidonmyarrivalwastogotothebookshopandpurchasetheWelshMethodisticbook。Itcostmesevenshillings，andwasathick，bulkyoctavowithacut—and—come—againexpressionaboutit，whichwasanythingbutdisagreeabletome，forIhateyourflimsypublications。Theeveningwasnowbeginningtosetin，andfeelingsomewhathungryIhurriedofftotheWynstayArmsthroughstreetscrowdedwithmarketpeople。OnarrivingattheinnIenteredthegrandroomandordereddinner。Thewaiters，observingmesplashedwithmudfromheadtofoot，lookedatmedubiously；seeing，however，therespectable—lookingvolumewhichI
boreinmyhand—noneofyourrailroadstuff—theybecamemoreassured，andIpresentlyheardonesaytotheother，\"It’sallright—that’sMrSo—and—So，thegreatBaptistpreacher。Hehasbeenpreachingamongstthehills—don’tyouseehisBible？\"
SeatingmyselfatatableIinspectedthevolume。AndhereperhapsthereaderexpectsthatIshallregalehimwithananalysisoftheMethodisticalvolumeatleastaslongasthatofthelifeofTomO’
theDingle。Inthatcase，however，hewillbedisappointed；allthatIshallatpresentsayofitis，thatitcontainedahistoryofMethodisminWales，withthelivesoftheprincipalWelshMethodists。Thatitwasfraughtwithcuriousandoriginalmatter，waswritteninastraightforward，Methodicalstyle，andthatIhavenodoubtitwillsomedayorotherbeextensivelyknownandhighlyprized。
AfterdinnerIcalledforhalfapintofwine。WhilstIwastriflingoverit，acommercialtravellerenteredintoconversationwithme。AftersometimeheaskedmeifIwasgoingfurtherthatnight。
\"ToLlangollen，\"saidI。
\"Bytheteno’clocktrain？\"saidhe。
\"No，\"Ireplied，\"I’mgoingonfoot。\"
\"Onfoot！\"saidhe；\"Iwouldnotgoonfoottherethisnightforfiftypounds。\"
\"Whynot？\"saidI。
\"Forfearofbeingknockeddownbythecolliers，whowillbealloutanddrunk。\"
\"Ifnotmorethantwoattackme，\"saidI，\"Ishan’tmuchmind。
WiththisbookIamsureIcanknockdownone，andIthinkIcanfindplayfortheotherwithmyfists。\"
Thecommercialtravellerlookedatme。\"AstrangekindofBaptistminister，\"IthoughtIheardhimsay。
CHAPTERLXII
RhiwabonRoad—ThePublic—houseKeeper—NoWelsh—TheWrongRoad—TheGoodWife。
IPAIDmyreckoningandstarted。Thenightwasnowrapidlyclosingin。Ipassedthetoll—gateandhurriedalongtheRhiwabonroad，overtakingcompaniesofWelshgoinghome，amongstwhomweremanyindividuals，whom，fromtheirthickandconfusedspeech，aswellasfromtheirstaggeringgait，Ijudgedtobeintoxicated。AsI
passedaredpublic—houseonmyrighthand，atthedoorofwhichstoodseveralcarts，ascreamofWelshissuedfromit。
\"LetanySaxon，\"saidI，\"whoisfondoffightingandwishesforabloodynosegointhere。\"
ComingtothesmallvillageaboutamilefromRhiwabon，Ifeltthirsty，andseeingapublic—house，inwhichallseemedtobequiet，Iwentin。Athick—setmanwithapipeinhismouthsatinthetap—room，andalsoawoman。
\"Whereisthelandlord？\"saidI。
\"Iamthelandlord，\"saidtheman，huskily。\"Whatdoyouwant？\"
\"Apintofale，\"saidI。
Themangotupandwithhispipeinhismouthwentstaggeringoutoftheroom。Inaboutaminutehereturnedholdingamuginhishand，whichheputdownonatablebeforeme，spillingnoslightquantityoftheliquorashedidso。Iputdownthree—penceonthetable。Hetookthemoneyupslowlypiecebypiece，lookedatitandappearedtoconsider，thentakingthepipeoutofhismouthhedashedittosevenpiecesagainstthetable，thenstaggeredoutoftheroomintothepassage，andfromthenceapparentlyoutofthehouse。Itastedthealewhichwasverygood，thenturningtothewomanwhoseemedaboutthree—and—twentyandwasrathergood—
looking，IspoketoherinWelsh。
\"IhavenoWelsh，sir，\"saidshe。
\"Howisthat？\"saidI；\"thisvillageisIthinkintheWelshery。\"
\"Itis，\"saidshe，\"butIamfromShropshire。\"
\"Areyouthemistressofthehouse？\"saidI。
\"No，\"saidshe，\"Iammarriedtoacollier；\"thengettingupshesaid，\"Imustgoandseeaftermyhusband。\"
\"Won’tyoutakeaglassofalefirst？\"saidI，offeringtofillaglasswhichstoodonthetable。
\"No，\"saidshe；\"Iamtheworstintheworldforaglassofale；\"
andwithoutsayinganythingmoreshedeparted。
\"Iwonderwhetheryourhusbandisanythinglikeyouwithrespecttoaglassofale，\"saidItomyself；thenfinishingmyaleIgotupandleftthehouse，whichwhenIdepartedappearedtobeentirelydeserted。
Itwasnowquitenight，anditwouldhavebeenpitchy—darkbutfortheglareofforges。Therewasanimmenseglaretothesouth—west，whichIconceivedproceededfromthoseofCefnMawr。Itlightedupthesouth—westernsky；thenthereweretwootherglaresnearertome，seeminglydividedbyalumpofsomething，perhapsagroveoftrees。
WalkingveryfastIsoonovertookaman。Iknewhimatoncebyhisstaggeringgait。
\"Ah，landlord！\"saidI；\"whitherbound？\"
\"ToRhiwabon，\"saidhe，huskily，\"forapint。\"
\"IsthealesogoodatRhiwabon，\"saidI，\"thatyouleavehomeforit？\"
\"No，\"saidhe，rathershortly，\"there’snotaglassofgoodaleinRhiwabon。\"
\"Thenwhydoyougothither？\"saidI。
\"Becauseapintofbadliquorabroadisbetterthanaquartofgoodathome，\"saidthelandlord，reelingagainstthehedge。
\"Therearemanyinahigherstationthanyouwhoactuponthatprinciple，\"thoughtItomyselfasIpassedon。
IsoonreachedRhiwabon。Therewasaprodigiousnoiseinthepublic—housesasIpassedthroughit。\"Collierscarousing，\"saidI。\"Well，Ishallnotgoamongstthemtopreachtemperance，thoughperhapsinstrictdutyIought。\"Attheendofthetown，insteadoftakingtheroadontheleftsideofthechurch，Itookthatontheright。ItwasnottillIhadproceedednearlyamilethatI
begantobeapprehensivethatIhadmistakentheway。HearingsomepeoplecomingtowardsmeontheroadIwaitedtilltheycameup；
theyprovedtobeamanandawoman。OnmyinquiringwhetherIwasrightforLlangollen，theformertoldmethatIwasnot，andinordertogetthereitwasnecessarythatIshouldreturntoRhiwabon。Iinstantlyturnedround。Abouthalf—waybackImetamanwhoaskedmeinEnglishwhereIwashurryingto。IsaidtoRhiwabon，inordertogettoLlangollen。\"Well，then，\"saidhe，\"youneednotreturntoRhiwabon—yonderisashortcutacrossthefields，\"andhepointedtoagate。Ithankedhim，andsaidIwouldgobyit；beforeleavinghimIaskedtowhatplacetheroadledwhichIhadbeenfollowing。
\"ToPentreCastren，\"hereplied。Istruckacrossthefieldsandshouldprobablyhavetumbledhalf—a—dozentimesoverpalesandthelike，butforthelightoftheCefnfurnacesbeforemewhichcasttheirredglowuponmypath。IdebauchedupontheLlangollenroadneartothetramwayleadingtothecollieries。Twoenormoussheetsofflameshotuphighintotheairfromovens，illuminingtwospectralchimneysashighassteeples，alsosmokybuildings，andgrimyfiguresmovingabout。Therewasaclangingofengines，anoiseofshovelsandafallingofcoalstrulyhorrible。TheglarewassogreatthatIcoulddistinctlyseetheminutestlinesuponmyhand。AdvancingalongthetramwayIobtainedanearerviewofthehellishbuildings，thechimneys，andthedemoniacfigures。ItwasjustsuchasceneasoneofthosedescribedbyEllisWynninhisVisionofHell。FeelingmyeyesscorchingIturnedaway，andproceededtowardsLlangollen，sometimesonthemuddyroad，sometimesonthedangerouscauseway。ForthreemilesatleastI
metnobody。NearLlangollen，asIwaswalkingonthecauseway，threemencameswiftlytowardsme。Ikeptthehedge，whichwasmyright；thetwofirstbrushedroughlypastme，thethirdcamefulluponmeandwastumbledintotheroad。Therewasalaughfromthetwofirstandaloudcursefromthelastashesprawledinthemire。Imerelysaid\"NosDa’ki，\"andpassedon，andinaboutaquarterofanhourreachedhome，whereIfoundmywifeawaitingmealone，Henriettahavinggonetobedbeingslightlyindisposed。Mywifereceivedmewithacheerfulsmile。IlookedatherandthegoodwifeoftheTriadcametomymind。
\"Sheismodest，voidofdeceit，andobedient。
\"Pureofconscience，graciousoftongue，andtruetoherhusband。
\"Herheartnotproud，hermannersaffable，andherbosomfullofcompassionforthepoor。
\"Labouringtobetidy，skilfulofhand，andfondofprayingtoGod。
\"Herconversationamiable，herdressdecent，andherhouseorderly。
\"Quickofhand，quickofeye，andquickofunderstanding。
\"Herpersonshapely，hermannersagreeable，andherheartinnocent。
\"Herfacebenignant，herheadintelligent，andprovident。
\"Neighbourly，gentle，andofaliberalwayofthinking。
\"Ableindirecting，providingwhatiswanting，andagoodmothertoherchildren。
\"Lovingherhusband，lovingpeace，andlovingGod。
\"Happytheman，\"addstheTriad，\"whopossessessuchawife。\"Verytrue，OTriad，alwaysprovidedheisinsomedegreeworthyofher；
butmanyamanleavesaninnocentwifeathomeforanimpureJezebelabroad，evenasmanyaoneprefersapintofhog’swashabroadtoatankardofgenerousliquorathome。
CHAPTERLXIII
PreparationsforDeparture—Catprovidedfor—APleasantParty—
LastNightatLlangollen。
IWASawakenedearlyontheSundaymorningbythehowlingofwind。
Therewasaconsiderablestormthroughouttheday，butunaccompaniedbyrain。Iwenttochurchbothinthemorningandtheevening。Thenextdaytherewasagreatdealofrain。ItwasnowthelatterendofOctober；winterwascomingon，andmywifeanddaughterwereanxioustoreturnhome。AftersomeconsultationitwasagreedthattheyshoulddepartforLondon，andthatIshouldjointhemthereaftermakingapedestriantourinSouthWales。
IshouldhavebeenlothtoquitWaleswithoutvisitingtheDeheubarthorSouthernRegion，alanddifferingwidely，asIhadheard，bothinlanguageandcustomsfromGwyneddortheNorthern，alandwhichhadgivenbirthtotheillustriousAbGwilym，andwherethegreatRycefamilyhadflourished，whichverymuchdistinguisheditselfintheWarsoftheRoses—amemberofwhichRyceapThomasplacedHenrytheSeventhonthethroneofBritain—afamilyofroyalextraction，andwhichafterthedeathofRoderictheGreatforalongtimeenjoyedthesovereigntyofthesouth。
Wesetaboutmakingthenecessarypreparationsforourrespectivejourneys。Thoseformineweresoonmade。Iboughtasmallleathersatchelwithalockandkey，inwhichIplacedawhitelinenshirt，apairofworstedstockings，arazorandaprayer—book。AlongwithitIboughtaleatherstrapwithwhichtoslingitovermyshoulder：Igotmybootsnewsoled，myumbrella，whichwasratherdilapidated，mended；puttwentysovereignsintomypurse，andthensaidIamallrightfortheDeheubarth。
AsmywifeanddaughterrequiredmuchmoretimeinmakingpreparationsfortheirjourneythanIformine，andasIshouldonlybeintheirwaywhilsttheywereemployed，itwasdeterminedthatIshoulddepartonmyexpeditiononThursday，andthattheyshouldremainatLlangollentilltheSaturday。
Wewereatfirstinsomeperplexitywithrespecttothedisposaloftheecclesiasticalcat；itwouldofcoursenotdotoleaveitinthegardentothetendermerciesoftheCalvinisticMethodistsoftheneighbourhood，moreespeciallythoseoftheflannelmanufactory，andmywifeanddaughtercouldhardlycarryitwiththem。Atlengthwethoughtofapplyingtoayoungwomanofsoundchurchprinciples，whowaslatelymarriedandlivedoverthewateronthewaytotherailroadstation，withwhomwewereslightlyacquainted，totakechargeoftheanimal，andsheonthefirstintimationofourwish，willinglyaccededtoit。Sowithherpoorpusswasleftalongwithatrifleforitsmilk—money，andwithher，aswesubsequentlylearned，itcontinuedinpeaceandcomforttillonemorningitsprangsuddenlyfromthehearthintotheair，gaveamew，anddied。Somuchfortheecclesiasticalcat！
ThemorningofTuesdaywasratherfine，andMrEbenezerE—，whohadheardofourintendeddeparture，cametoinviteustospendtheeveningattheVicarage。HisfatherhadleftLlangollenthedaybeforeforChester，whereheexpectedtobedetainedsomedays。I
toldhimweshouldbemosthappytocome。Hethenaskedmetotakeawalk。Iagreedwithpleasure，andwesetout，intendingtogotoLlansilioatthewesternendofthevalleyandlookatthechurch。
Thechurchwasanancientbuilding。Ithadnospire，buthadthelittleerectiononitsroof，sousualtoWelshchurches，forholdingabell。
InthechurchyardisatombinwhichanoldsquireofthenameofJoneswasburiedaboutthemiddleofthelastcentury。Thereisatraditionaboutthissquireandtombtothefollowingeffect。
Afterthesquire’sdeaththerewasalawsuitabouthisproperty，inconsequenceofnowillhavingbeenfound。Itwassaidthathiswillhadbeenburiedwithhiminthetomb，whichaftersometimewasopened，butwithwhatsuccessthetraditionsayethnot。
IntheeveningwewenttotheVicarage。BesidesthefamilyandourselvestherewasMrR—andoneortwomore。Wehadaverypleasantparty；andasmostofthosepresentwishedtohearsomethingconnectedwithSpain，Italkedmuchaboutthatcountry，sangsongsofGermania，andrelatedinanabridgedformLopedeVega’sghoststory，whichisdecidedlythebestghoststoryintheworld。
IntheafternoonofWednesdayIwentandtookleaveofcertainfriendsinthetown；amongstothersofoldMrJones。OnmytellinghimthatIwasabouttoleaveLlangollen，heexpressedconsiderableregret，butsaidthatitwasnaturalformetowishtoreturntomynativecountry。ItoldhimthatbeforereturningtoEnglandI
intendedtomakeapedestriantourinSouthWales。Hesaidthatheshoulddiewithoutseeingthesouth；thathehadhadseveralopportunitiesofvisitingitwhenhewasyoung，whichhehadneglected，andthathewasnowtoooldtowanderfarfromhome。HethenaskedmewhichroadIintendedtotake。ItoldhimthatI
intendedtostrikeacrosstheBerwyntoLlanRhyadr，thenvisitSycharth，oncetheseatofOwainGlendower，lyingtotheeastofLlanRhyadr，thenreturntothatplace，andafterseeingthecelebratedcataractacrossthemountainstoBala—whenceIshouldproceedduesouth。IthenaskedhimwhetherhehadeverseenSycharthandtheRhyadr；hetoldmethathehadnevervisitedSycharth，buthadseentheRhyadrmorethanonce。HethensmiledandsaidthattherewasaludicrousanecdoteconnectedwiththeRhyadr，whichhewouldrelatetome。\"AtravelleroncewenttoseetheRhyadr，andwhilstgazingatitacalfwhichhadfallenintothestreamabove，whilstgrazingupontherocks，cametumblingdownthecataract。’Wonderful！’saidthetraveller，andgoingawayreportedthatitwasnotonlyafallofwater，butofcalves，andwasverymuchdisappointed，onvisitingthewaterfallonanotheroccasion，toseenocalfcometumblingdown。\"Itookleaveofthekindoldgentlemanwithregret，neverexpectingtoseehimagain，ashewasinhiseighty—fourthyear—hewasatrulyexcellentcharacter，andmightberankedamongstthevenerableornamentsofhisnativeplace。
Abouthalf—pasteighto’clockatnightJohnJonescametobidmefarewell。Ibadehimsitdown，andsentforapintofaletoregalehimwith。Notwithstandingtheale，hewasverymelancholyatthethoughtthatIwasabouttoleaveLlangollen，probablynevertoreturn。ToenlivenhimIgavehimanaccountofmylateexpeditiontoWrexham，whichmadehimsmilemorethanonce。WhenI
hadconcludedheaskedmewhetherIknewthemeaningofthewordWrexham：ItoldhimIbelievedIdid，andgavehimthederivationwhichthereaderwillfindinanearlychapterofthiswork。Hetoldmethatwithallduesubmission，hethoughthecouldgivemeabetter，whichhehadheardfromaverycleverman，gwrdeallusiawn，wholivedabouttwomilesfromLlangollenontheCorwenroad。
IntheoldtimeamanofthenameofSamkeptagwestfa，orinn，attheplacewhereWrexhamflowstands；whenhediedheleftittohiswife，whokeptitafterhim，onwhichaccountthehousewasfirstcalledTywraigSam，thehouseofSam’swife，andthenforshortnessWraigSam，andatownarisingaboutitbydegrees，thetowntoowascalledWraigSam，whichtheSaxonscorruptedintoWrexham。
IwasmuchdivertedwiththisWelshderivationofWrexham，whichI
didnotattempttocontrovert。AfterwehadhadsomefurtherdiscourseJohnJonesgotup，shookmebythehand，gaveasigh，wishedmea\"taithhyfryd，\"anddeparted。ThusterminatedmylastdayatLlangollen。
CHAPTERLXIV
DepartureforSouthWales—Tregeiriog—PleasingScene—TryingtoRead—GarmonandLupus—TheCrackedVoice—EffectofaCompliment—LlanRhyadr。
THEmorningofthe21stofOctoberwasfineandcold；therewasarimefrostontheground。Atabouteleveno’clockIstartedonmyjourneyforSouthWales，intendingthatmyfirststageshouldbeLlanRhyadr。MywifeanddaughteraccompaniedmeasfarasPlasNewydd。AswepassedthroughthetownIshookhandswithhonestA—
，whomIsawstandingatthedoorofashop，withakindofSpanishhatonhishead，andalsowithmyvenerablefriendoldMrJones，whomIencounteredclosebesidehisowndomicile。AtthePlasNewyddItookanaffectionatefarewellofmytwolovedones，andproceededtoascendtheBerwyn。NearthetopIturnedroundtotakeafinallookatthespotwhereIhadlatelypassedmanyahappyhour。TherelayLlangollenfarbelowme，withitschimneysplacidlysmoking，itsprettychurchrisinginitscentre，itsblueriverdividingitintotwonearlyequalparts，andthemightyhillofBrennusoverhangingitfromthenorth。
Isighed，andrepeatingEinionDu’sverse\"TangnefeddiLlangollen！\"
turnedaway。
Iwentoverthetopofthehillandthenbegantodescenditssouthernside，obtainingadistantviewoftheplainsofShropshireontheeast。Isoonreachedthebottomofthehill，passedthroughLlansanfraid，andthreadingthevaleoftheCeiriogatlengthfoundmyselfatPontyMeibioninfrontofthehouseofHuwMorris，orratherofthatwhichisbuiltonthesiteofthedwellingofthepoet。IstoppedandremainedbeforethehousethinkingofthemightyHuw，tillthedooropened，andoutcamethedark—featuredman，thepoet’sdescendant，whomIsawwhenvisitingtheplaceincompanywithhonestJohnJones—hehadnowaspadeinhishandandwasdoubtlessgoingtohislabour。AsIknewhimtobeofarathersullenunsocialdisposition，Isaidnothingtohim，butproceededonmyway。AsIadvancedthevalleywidened，thehillsonthewestrecedingtosomedistancefromtheriver。CametoTregeiriogasmallvillage，whichtakesitsnamefromthebrook；TregeiriogsignifyingthehamletorvillageontheCeiriog。Seeingabridgewhichcrossedtherivuletataslightdistancefromtheroad，alittlebeyondthevillage，Iturnedasidetolookatit。ThepropercourseoftheCeiriogisfromsouthtonorth；whereitiscrossedbythebridge，however，itrunsfromwesttoeast，returningtoitsusualcourse，alittlewaybelowthebridge。Thebridgewassmallandpresentednothingremarkableinitself：I
obtained，however，asIlookedoveritsparapettowardsthewestaviewofascene，notofwildgrandeur，butofsomethingwhichI
likebetter，whichrichlycompensatedmefortheslighttroubleI
hadtakeninsteppingasidetovisitthelittlebridge。Aboutahundredyardsdistantwasasmallwater—mill，builtovertherivulet，thewheelgoingslowly，slowlyround；largequantitiesofpigs，thegeneralityofthembrindled，wereeitherbrowsingonthebanksorlyingclosetothesideshalfimmersedinthewater；oneimmensewhitehog，themonarchseeminglyoftheherd，wasstandinginthemiddleofthecurrent。SuchwasthescenewhichIsawfromthebridge，asceneofquietrurallifewellsuitedtothebrushesoftwoorthreeoftheoldDutchpainters，ortothoseofmenscarcelyinferiortothemintheirownstyle，Gainsborough，Moreland，andCrome。Mymindforthelasthalf—hourhadbeeninahighlyexcitedstate；IhadbeenrepeatingversesofoldHuwMorris，broughttomyrecollectionbythesightofhisdwelling—
place；theywererantingroaringverses，againsttheRoundheads。I
admiredthevigourbutdislikedtheprincipleswhichtheydisplayed；andadmirationontheonehandanddisapprovalontheother，bredacommotioninmymindlikethatraisedontheseawhentiderunsonewayandwindblowsanother。Thequietscenefromthebridge，however，producedasedativeeffectonmymind，andwhenI
resumedmyjourneyIhadforgottenHuw，hisverses，andallaboutRoundheadsandCavaliers。
IreachedLlanarmon，anothersmallvillage，situatedinavalleythroughwhichtheCeiriogorariververysimilartoitflows。Itishalf—waybetweenLlangollenandLlanRhyadr，beingtenmilesfromeach。Iwenttoasmallinnorpublic—house，satdownandcalledforale。Awaggonerwasseatedatalargetablewithanewspaperbeforehimonwhichhewasintentlystaring。
\"Whatnews？\"saidIinEnglish。
\"IwishIcouldtellyou，\"saidheinverybrokenEnglish，\"butI
cannotread。\"
\"Thenwhyareyoulookingatthepaper？\"saidI。
\"Because，\"saidhe，\"bylookingatthelettersIhopeintimetomakethemout。\"
\"Youmaylookatthem，\"saidI，\"forfiftyyearswithoutbeingabletomakeoutone。Youshouldgotoaneveningschool。\"
\"Iamtooold，\"saidhe，\"todosonow；ifIdidthechildrenwouldlaughatme。\"
\"Nevermindtheirlaughingatyou，\"saidI，\"providedyoulearntoread；letthemlaughwhowin！\"
\"Yougivegoodadvice，mester，\"saidhe，\"IthinkIshallfollowit。\"
\"Letmelookatthepaper，\"saidI。
Hehandedittome。ItwasaWelshpaper，andfullofdismalaccountsfromtheseatofwar。
\"Whatnews，mester？\"saidthewaggoner。
\"Nothingbutbad，\"saidI；\"theRussiansarebeatingusandtheFrenchtoo。\"
\"IftheRusiaidbeatus，\"saidthewaggoner，\"itisbecausetheFrancodarewithus。Weshouldhavegonealone。\"
\"Perhapsyouareright，\"saidI；\"atanyratewecouldnothavefaredworsethanwearefaringnow。\"
IpresentlypaidforwhatIhadhad，inquiredthewaytoLlanRhyadr，anddeparted。
ThevillageofLlanarmontakesitsnamefromitschurch，whichisdedicatedtoGarmon，anArmoricanbishop，whowithanothercalledLupuscameoverintoBritaininordertopreachagainsttheheresyofPelagius。HeandhiscolleagueresidedforsometimeinFlintshire，andwhilstthereenabledinaremarkablemannertheBritonstoachieveavictoryoverthosemysteriouspeoplethePicts，whowereravagingthecountryfarandwide。HearingthattheenemywereadvancingtowardsMold，thetwobishopsgatheredtogetheranumberoftheBritons，andplacedtheminambushinadarkvalleythroughwhichitwasnecessaryforthePictstopassinordertoreachMold，strictlyenjoiningthemtoremainquiettillalltheirenemiesshouldhaveenteredthevalleyandthendowhatevertheyshouldseethem，thetwobishops，do。ThePictsarrived，andwhentheywereabouthalf—waythroughthevalleythetwobishopssteppedforwardfromathicketandbegancryingaloud，\"Alleluia！\"TheBritonsfollowedtheirexample，andthewoodedvalleyresoundedwithcriesof\"Alleluia！Alleluia！\"TheshoutsandtheunexpectedappearanceofthousandsofmencausedsuchterrortothePictsthattheytooktoflightinthegreatestconfusion；hundredsweretrampledtodeathbytheircompanions，andnotafewweredrownedintheriverAlan（8）whichrunsthroughthevalley。
ThereareseveralchurchesdedicatedtoGarmoninWales，butwhetherthereareanydedicatedtoLupusIamunabletosay。AfterleavingLlanarmonIfoundmyselfamongstlumpyhillsthroughwhichtheroadledinthedirectionofthesouth。ArrivingwhereseveralroadsmetIfollowedoneandbecamebewilderedamidsthillsandravines。AtlastIsawasmallhouseclosebyanantordingle，andturnedtowardsitforthepurposeofinquiringmyway。Onmyknockingatthedoorawomanmadeherappearance，ofwhomIaskedinWelshwhetherIwasintheroadtoLlanRhyadr。ShesaidthatI
wasoutofit，butthatifIwenttowardsthesouthIshouldseeapathonmyleftwhichwouldbringmetoit。IaskedherhowfaritwastoLlanRhyadr。
\"Fourlongmiles，\"shereplied。
\"Andwhatisthenameoftheplacewherewearenow？\"saidI。
\"CaeHir\"（thelonginclosure），saidshe。
\"Areyoualoneinthehouse？\"saidI。
\"Quitealone，\"saidshe；\"butmyhusbandandpeoplewillsoonbehomefromthefield，foritisgettingdusk。\"
\"HaveyouanySaxon？\"saidI。
\"Notaword，\"saidshe，\"haveIoftheiaithdieithr，norhasmyhusband，noranyoneofmypeople。\"
Ibadeherfarewell，andsoonreachedtheroad，whichledsouthandnorth。AsIwasboundforthesouthIstrodeforwardbrisklyinthatdirection。Theroadwasbetweenromantichills；heardWelshsongsproceedingfromthehillfieldsonmyright，andthemurmurofabrookrushingdownadeepnantonmyleft。IwentontillI
