第32章

类别:其他 作者:George Borrow字数:10497更新时间:19/01/07 15:19:18
HisalefromShrewsburytownhebrings; Hisusquebaughisdrinkforkings; Braggethekeeps,breadwhiteoflook,And,blessthemark!abustlingcook。 Hismansionistheminstrels’home,You’llfindthemtherewhene’eryoucomeOfallhersexhiswife’sthebest; ThehouseholdthroughhercareisblestShe’sscionofaknightlytree,She’sdignified,she’skindandfree。 Hisbairnsapproachme,pairbypair,Owhatanestofchieftainsfair! HeredifficultitistocatchAsightofeitherboltorlatch; Theporter’splaceherenonewillfill; Herlargessshallbelavish’dstill,Andne’ershallthirstorhungerrudeInSycharthventuretointrude。 Anobleleader,Cambria’sknight,Thelakepossesses,hisbyright,Andmidstthatazurewaterplac’d,Thecastle,byeachpleasuregrac’d。 AndwhenIhadfinishedrepeatingtheselinesIsaid,\"Howmuchmorehappy,innocent,andholy,IwasinthedaysofmyboyhoodwhenItranslateIolo’sodethanIamatthepresenttime!\"ThencoveringmyfacewithmyhandsIweptlikeachild。 CHAPTERLXVII CupofCoffee—Gwen—BluffoldFellow—ARabbleRout—AllfromWrexham。 AFTERawhileIarosefrommyseatanddescendingthehillreturnedtothehouseofmyhonestfriends,whomIfoundsittingbytheirfireasIhadfirstseenthem。 \"Well,\"saidtheman,\"didyoubringbackOwenGlendower?\" \"Notonlyhim,\"saidI,\"buthishouse,family,andallrelatingtohim。\" \"Bywhatmeans?\"saidtheman。 \"Bymeansofasongmadealongtimeago,whichdescribesSycharthasitwasinhistime,andhismanneroflivingthere。\" PresentlyGwen,whohadbeenpreparingcoffeeinexpectationofmyreturn,pouredoutacupful,whichshepresentedtome,atthesametimehandingmesomewhitesugarinabasin。 Itookthecoffee,helpedmyselftosomesugar,andreturnedherthanksinherownlanguage。 \"Ah,\"saidtheman,inWelsh,\"IseeyouareaCumro。GwenandI havebeenwonderingwhetheryouwereWelshorEnglish;butIseeyouareoneofourselves。\" \"No,\"saidIinthesamelanguage,\"IamanEnglishman,borninapartofEnglandthefarthestofanyfromWales。Infact,IamaCarnSais。\" \"AndhowcameyoutospeakWelsh?\"saidtheman。 \"ItookitintomyheadtolearnitwhenIwasaboy,\"saidI。 \"Englishmensometimesdostrangethings。\" \"SoIhaveheard,\"saidtheman,\"butIneverheardbeforeofanEnglishmanlearningWelsh。\" Iproceededtodrinkmycoffee,andhavingfinishedit,andhadalittlemorediscourseIgotup,andhavinggivenGwenapieceofsilver,whichshereceivedwithasmileandacurtsey,IsaidI mustnowbegoing,\"Won’tyoutakeanothercup?\"saidGwen,\"youarewelcome。\" \"No,thankyou,\"saidI,\"Ihavehadenough。\" \"Whereareyougoing?\"saidthemaninEnglish。 \"ToLlanRhyadr,\"saidI,\"fromwhichIcamethismorning。\" \"Whichwaydidyoucome?\"saidtheman。 \"ByLlanGedwin,\"Ireplied,\"andoverthehill。Isthereanotherway?\" \"Thereis,\"saidtheman,\"byLlanSilin。\" \"LlanSilin!\"saidI;\"isnotthattheplacewhereHuwMorrisisburied?\" \"Itis,\"saidtheman。 \"IwillreturnbyLlanSilin,\"saidI,\"andinpassingthroughpayavisittothetombofthegreatpoet。IsLlanSilinfaroff?\" \"Abouthalfamile,\"saidtheman。\"Gooverthebridge,turntotheright,andyouwillbetherepresently。\" Ishookthehonestcouplebythehandandbadethemfarewell。Themanputonhishatandwentwithmeafewyardsfromthedoor,andthenproceededtowardsthefactory。Ipassedoverthebridge,underwhichwasastreamlet,whichalittlebelowthebridgereceivedthebrookwhichonceturnedOwenGlendower’scorn—mill。I soonreachedLlanSilin,avillageortownlet,havingsomehighhillsatashortdistancetothewestward,whichformpartoftheBerwyn。 Ienteredthekitchenofanold—fashionedpublic—house,andsittingdownbyatabletoldthelandlord,ared—nosedelderlyman,whocamebowinguptome,tobringmeapintofale。Thelandlordbowedanddeparted。Abluff—lookingoldfellow,somewhatunderthemiddlesize,satjustoppositetomeatthetable。Hewasdressedinawhitefriezecoat,andhadasmallhatonhisheadsetratherconsequentiallyononeside。Beforehimonthetablestoodajugofale,betweenwhichandhimlayalargecrabstick。Threeorfourotherpeoplestoodorsatindifferentpartsoftheroom。 Presentlythelandlordreturnedwiththeale。 \"Isupposeyoucomeonsessionsbusiness,sir?\"saidhe,asheplaceditdownbeforeme。 \"Arethesessionsbeingheldhereto—day?\"saidI。 \"Theyare,\"saidthelandlord,\"andthereisplentyofbusiness; twobadcasesofpoaching,SirWatkin’skeepersareupatcourtandhopetoconvict。\" \"Iamnotcomeonsessionsbusiness,\"saidI;\"Iammerelystrollingalittleabouttoseethecountry。\" \"HeiscomefromSouthWales,\"saidtheoldfellowinthefriezecoat,tothelandlord,\"inordertoseewhatkindofcountrythenorthis。Wellatanyratehehasseenabettercountrythanhisown。\" \"HowdoyouknowthatIcomefromSouthWales?\"saidI。 \"ByyourEnglish,\"saidtheoldfellow;\"anybodymayknowyouareSouthWelshbyyourEnglish;itissocursedlybad。Butlet’shearyouspeakalittleWelsh;thenIshallbecertainastowhoyouare。\" Ididashebademe,sayingafewwordsinWelsh。 \"There’sWelsh,\"saidtheoldfellow,\"whobutaSouthWelshmanwouldtalkWelshinthatmanner?It’snearlyasbadasyourEnglish。\" IaskedhimifhehadeverbeeninSouthWales。 \"Yes,\"saidhe;\"andabadcountryIfoundit;justlikethepeople。\" \"IfyoutakemeforaSouthWelshman,\"saidI,\"yououghttospeakcivillybothoftheSouthWelshandtheircountry。\" \"Iammerelypayingtitfortat,\"saidtheoldfellow。\"WhenIwasinSouthWalesyourpeoplelaughedatmyfolksandcountry,sowhenImeetoneofthemhereIservehimoutasIwasservedoutthere。\" Imadenoreplytohim,butaddressingmyselftothelandlordinquiredwhetherHuwMorriswasnotburiedinLlanSilinchurchyard。Herepliedintheaffirmative。 \"Ishouldliketoseehistomb,\"saidI。 \"Well,sir,\"saidthelandlord,\"Ishallbehappytoshowittoyouwheneveryouplease。\" Hereagaintheoldfellowputinhisword。 \"YouneverhadaprydyddlikeHuwMorrisinSouthWales,\"saidhe; \"norTwmo’rNanteither。\" \"SouthWaleshasproducedgoodpoets,\"saidI。 \"No,ithasn’t,\"saidtheoldfellow;\"itneverproducedone。Ifithad,youwouldn’thaveneededtocomeheretoseethegraveofapoet;youwouldhavefoundoneathome。\" Ashesaidthesewordshegotup,tookhisstick,andseemedabouttodepart。Justtheninburstarabbleroutofgame—keepersandriver—watcherswhohadcomefromthepettysessions,andwereinhighglee,thetwopoacherswhomthelandlordhadmentionedhavingbeenconvictedandheavilyfined。Twoorthreeofthemwereparticularlyboisterous,runningagainstsomeoftheguestswhoweresittingorstandinginthekitchen,andpushingthelandlordabout,cryingatthesametimethattheywouldstandbySirWatkintothelast,andwouldneverseehimplundered。Oneofthem,afellowofaboutthirty,inahairycap,blackcoat,dirtyyellowbreeches,anddirtywhitetop—boots,whowasthemostobstreperousofthemall,atlastcameuptotheoldchapwhodislikedSouthWelshmenandtriedtoknockoffhishat,swearingthathewouldstandbySirWatkin;he,however,metaTartar。TheenemyoftheSouthWelsh,likeallcrustypeople,hadlotsofmettle,andwiththestickwhichheheldinhishandforthwithaimedablowatthefellow’spoll,which,hadhenotjumpedback,wouldprobablyhavebrokenit。 \"Iwillnotbeinsultedbyyou,youvagabond,\"saidtheoldchap,\"norbySirWatkineither;goandtellhimso。\" Thefellowlookedsheepish,andturningawayproceededtotakelibertieswithotherpeoplelessdangeroustomeddlewiththanoldcrabstick。He,however,soondesisted,andsatdownevidentlydisconcerted。 \"WereyoueverworsetreatedinSouthWalesbythepeopletherethanyouhavebeenherebyyourowncountrymen?\"saidItotheoldfellow。 \"Mycountrymen?\"saidhe;\"thisscampisnocountrymanofmine;norisoneofthewholekit。TheyareallfromWrexham,amixtureofbrokenhousekeepersandfellowstoostupidtolearnatrade;asetofscampsfitfornothingintheworldbuttoswearbodilyagainsthonestmen。TheysaytheywillstandupforSirWatkin,andsotheywill,butonlyinaboxintheCourttogivefalseevidence。 Theywon’tfightforhimonthebanksoftheriver。Countrymenofmine,indeed!theyarenocountrymenofmine;theyarefromWrexham,wherethepeoplespeakneitherEnglishnorWelsh,notevenSouthWelshasyoudo。\" Thengivingakindofflourishwithhisstickhedeparted。 CHAPTERLXVIII LlanSilinChurch—TombofHuwMorris—BarbaraandRichard— WelshCountryClergyman—TheSwearingLad—Anglo—SaxonDevils。 HAVINGdiscussedmyaleIaskedthelandlordifhewouldshowmethegraveofHuwMorris。\"Withpleasure,sir,\"saidhe;\"prayfollowme。\"Heledmetothechurchyard,inwhichseveralenormousyewtreeswerestanding,probablyofanantiquitywhichreachedasfarbackasthedaysofHenrytheEighth,whentheyewbowwasstillthefavouriteweaponofthemenofBritain。Thechurchfrontsthesouth,theporticobeinginthatdirection。Thebodyofthesacrededificeisancient,butthesteeplewhichbearsagildedcockonitstopismodern。Theinnkeeperledmedirectlyuptothesouthernwall,thenpointingtoabroaddiscolouredslab,whichlayonthegroundjustoutsidethewall,aboutmidwaybetweentheporticoandtheorielend,hesaid: \"UnderneaththisstoneliesHuwMorris,sir。\"ForthwithtakingoffmyhatIwentdownonmykneesandkissedthecoldslabcoveringthecoldremainsofthemightyHuw,andthen,stillonmyknees,proceededtoexamineitattentively。Itiscoveredoverwithlettersthreepartsdefaced。AllIcouldmakeoutoftheinscriptionwasthedateofthepoet’sdeath,1709。\"Agreatgenius,averygreatgenius,sir,\"saidtheinn—keeper,afterIhadgotonmyfeetandputonmyhat。 \"Hewasindeed,\"saidI;\"areyouacquaintedwithhispoetry?\" \"Ohyes,\"saidtheinnkeeper,andthenrepeatedthefourlinescomposedbythepoetshortlybeforehisdeath,whichIhadheardtheintoxicatedstonemasonrepeatinthepublic—houseofthePandy,thedayIwenttovisitthepoet’sresidencewithJohnJones。 \"DoyouknowanymoreofHuw’spoetry?\"saidI。 \"No,\"saidtheinnkeeper。\"Thoselines,however,IhaveknowneversinceIwasachildandrepeatedthem,moreparticularlyoflatesinceagehascomeuponmeandIhavefeltthatIcannotlastlong。\" Itisveryoddhowfewoftheversesofgreatpoetsareinpeople’smouths。NotmorethanadozenofShakespear’slinesareinpeople’smouths:ofthoseofPopenotmorethanhalfthatnumber。 OfAddison’spoetrytwoorthreelinesmaybeinpeople’smouths,thoughIneverheardonequoted,theonlylinewhichIeverheardquotedasAddison’snotbeinghisbutGarth’s: \"’Tisbestrepentinginacoachandsix。’ WhilstoftheversesofHuwMorrisIneverknewanyonebutmyself,whoamnotaWelshman,whocouldrepeatalinebeyondthefourwhichIhavetwicehadoccasiontomention,andwhichseemtobegenerallyknowninNorthifnotinSouthWales。 FromtheflagstoneIproceededtotheporticoandgazeduponitintensely。Itpresentednothingveryremarkable,butithadthegreatestinterestforme,forIrememberedhowmanytimesHuwMorrishadwalkedoutofthatporchattheheadofthecongregation,theclergymanyieldinghisownplacetotheinspiredbard。Iwouldfainhaveenteredthechurch,butthelandlordhadnotthekey,andtoldmethatheimaginedtherewouldbesomedifficultyinprocuringit。Iwasthereforeobligedtocontentmyselfwithpeepingthroughawindowintotheinterior,whichhadasolemnandvenerableaspect。 \"Withinthere,\"saidItomyself,\"HuwMorris,thegreatestsongsteroftheseventeenthcentury,knelteverySundayduringthelatterthirtyyearsofhislife,afterwalkingfromPontyMeibionacrossthebleakandsavageBerwyn。WithintherewasmarriedBarbaraWynn,theRoseofMaelai,toRichardMiddleton,thehandsomecavalierofMaelor,andwithintheresheliesburied,evenasthesongsterwholamentedheruntimelydeathinimmortalverseliesburiedouthereinthegraveyard。Whatinterestingassociationshasthischurchforme,bothoutsideandin,butallconnectedwithHuw;forwhatshouldIhaveknownofBarbara,theRose,andgallantRichardbutforthepoemontheiraffectionateunionanduntimelyseparation,thedialoguebetweenthelivingandthedead,composedbyhumbleHuw,thefarmer’ssonofPontyyMeibion?\" AftergazingthroughthewindowtillmyeyeswateredIturnedtotheinnkeeper,andinquiredthewaytoLlanRhyadr。HavingreceivedfromhimthedesiredinformationIthankedhimforhiscivility,andsetoutonmyreturn。 BeforeIcouldgetclearofthetownIsuddenlyencounteredmyfriendR—,thecleverlawyerandmagistrate’sclerkofLlangollen。 \"Ilittleexpectedtoseeyouhere,\"saidhe。 \"NorIyou,\"Ireplied。 \"Icameinmyofficialcapacity,\"saidhe;\"thepettysessionshavebeenheldhereto—day。\" \"Iknowtheyhave,\"Ireplied;\"andthattwopoachershavebeenconvicted。IcamehereonmywaytoSouthWalestoseethegraveofHuwMorris,who,asyouknow,isburiedinthechurchyard。\" \"Haveyouseentheclergyman?\"saidR—。 \"No,\"Ireplied。 \"Thencomewithme,\"saidhe;\"Iamnowgoingtocalluponhim。I knowhewillberejoicedtomakeyouracquaintance。\" Heledmetotheclergyman’shouse,whichstoodatthesouth—westendofthevillagewithinagardenfencedwithanironpaling。Wefoundtheclergymaninanicecomfortableparlourorstudy,thesidesofwhichweredecoratedwithbooks。Hewasasharpclever— lookingman,ofaboutthemiddleage。Onmybeingintroducedtohimhewasverygladtoseeme,asmyfriendR—toldmehewouldbe。Heseemedtoknowallaboutme,eventhatIunderstoodWelsh。 Weconversedonvarioussubjects:onthepoweroftheWelshlanguage;itsmutableletters;onHuwMorris,andlikewiseonale,withanexcellentglassofwhichheregaledme。Iwasmuchpleasedwithhim,andthoughthimacapitalspecimenoftheWelshcountryclergyman。HisnamewasWalterJones。 Afterstayingabouthalf—an—hourItookleaveofthegoodkindman,whowishedmeallkindofhappiness,spiritualandtemporal,andsaidthatheshouldalwaysbehappytoseemeatLlanSilin。MyfriendR—walkedwithmealittlewayandthenbademefarewell。 Itwasnowlateintheafternoon,theskywasgreyandgloomy,andakindofhalfwintrywindwasblowing。IntheforenoonIhadtravelledalongtheeasternsideofthevalley,whichIwillcallthatofLlanRhyadr,directingmycoursetothenorth,butIwasnowonthewesternsideofthevalley,journeyingtowardsthesouth。Inabouthalf—an—hourIfoundmyselfnearlyparallelwiththehighcragwhichIhadseenfromadistanceinthemorning。Itwasnowtotheeastofme。Itswesternfrontwasveryprecipitous,butonitsnorthernsideitwascultivatednearlytothesummit。 AsIstoodlookingatitfromnearthetopofagentleacclivityaboywithateam,whomIhadpassedalittletimebefore,cameup。 Hewaswhippinghishorses,whowerestraininguptheascent,andwasswearingatthemmostfrightfullyinEnglish。Iaddressedhiminthatlanguage,inquiringthenameofthecrag,butheansweredDimSaesneg,andthenagainfelltocursing;hishorsesinEnglish。 Iallowedhimandhisteamtogettothetopoftheascent,andthenovertakinghim,IsaidinWelsh:\"WhatdoyoumeanbysayingyouhavenoEnglish?YouweretalkingEnglishjustnowtoyourhorses。\" \"Yes,\"saidthelad,\"IhaveEnglishenoughformyhorses,andthatisall。\" \"YouseemtohaveplentyofWelsh,\"saidI;\"whydon’tyouspeakWelshtoyourhorses?\" \"It’sofnousespeakingWelshtothem,\"saidtheboy;\"Welshisn’tstrongenough。\" \"Isn’tMynDiawltolerablystrong?\"saidI。 \"Notstrongenoughforhorses,\"saidtheboy\"ifIweretosayMynDiawltomyhorses,orevenCasAndras,theywouldlaughatme。\" \"Dotheothercarters,\"saidI,\"usethesameEnglishtotheirhorseswhichyoudotoyours?\" \"Yes\"saidtheboy,\"they’llallusethesameEnglishwords;iftheydidn’tthehorseswouldn’tmindthem。\" \"Whatatriumph,\"thoughtI,\"fortheEnglishlanguagethattheWelshcartersareobligedtohaverecoursetoitsoathsandexecrationstomaketheirhorsesgeton!\" Isaidnothingmoretotheboyonthesubjectoflanguage,butagainaskedhimthenameofthecrag。\"ItiscalledCraigyGorllewin,\"saidhe。Ithankedhim,andsoonlefthimandhisteamfarbehind。 Notwithstandingwhattheboysaidaboutthemilk—and—watercharacterofnativeWelshoaths,theWelshhavesomeverypungentexecrations,quiteasefficacious,Ishouldsay,tomakeahorsegetonasanyintheEnglishswearingvocabulary。Someoftheiroathsarecurious,beingconnectedwithheathentimesandDruidicalmythology;forexamplethatCasAndras,mentionedbytheboy,whichmeanshatefulenemyorhorribleAndras。AndrasorAndrastewasthefuryorDemigorgonoftheAncientCumry,towhomtheybuilttemplesandofferedsacrificesoutoffear。CuriousthatthesameoathshouldbeusedbytheChristianCumryofthepresentday,whichwasinvogueamongsttheirpaganancestorssomethreethousandyearsago。However,thesamethingisobservableamongstusChristianEnglish:wesaytheDusetakeyou!evenasourheathenSaxonforefathersdid,whoworshippedakindofDevilsocalled,andnamedadayoftheweekafterhim,whichnamewestillretaininourhebdomadalcalendarlikethoseofseveralotherAnglo—Saxondevils。Wealsosay:GotooldNick!andNickorNikkurwasasurnameofWoden,andalsothenameofaspiritwhichhauntedfordsandwasinthehabitofdrowningpassengers。 NightcamequicklyuponmeafterIhadpassedtheswearinglad。 However,IwasfortunateenoughtoreachLlanRhyadr,withouthavingexperiencedanydamageorimpedimentfromDiawl,Andras,Duse,orNick。 CHAPTERLXIX ChurchofLlanRhyadr—TheClerk—TheTablet—Stone—FirstViewoftheCataract。 THEnightwasbothwindyandrainyliketheprecedingone,butthemorningwhichfollowed,unlikethatofthedaybefore,wasdullandgloomy。AfterbreakfastIwalkedouttotakeanotherviewofthelittletown。AsIstoodlookingatthechurchamiddle—agedmanofaremarkablyintelligentcountenancecameupandaskedmeifI shouldliketoseetheinside。ItoldhimIshould,whereuponhesaidthathewastheclerkandwouldadmitmewithpleasure。 Takingakeyoutofhispocketheunlockedthedoorofthechurchandwewentin。Theinsidewassombre,notsomuchowingtothegloominessofthedayastheheavinessofthearchitecture。Itpresentedsomethingintheformofacross。Isoonfoundtheclerkwhathiscountenancerepresentedhimtobe,ahighlyintelligentperson。Hisanswerstomyquestionswereingeneralreadyandsatisfactory。 \"Thisseemsratheranancientedifice,\"saidI;\"whenwasitbuilt?\" \"Inthesixteenthcentury,\"saidtheclerk;\"inthedaysofHarryTudor。\" \"Haveanyremarkablemenbeenclergymenofthischurch?\" \"Several,sir;amongstitsvicarswasDoctorWilliamMorgan,thegreatSouthWelshman,theauthoroftheoldWelshversionoftheBible,whoflourishedinthetimeofQueenElizabeth。ThentherewasDoctorRobertSouth,aneminentdivine,who,thoughnotaWelshman,spokeandpreachedWelshbetterthanmanyofthenativeclergy。Thentherewasthelastvicar,WalterD—,agreatpreacherandwriter,whostyledhimselfinprintGwalterMechain。\" \"AreMorganandSouthburiedhere?\"saidI。 \"Theyarenot,sir,\"saidtheclerk;\"theyhadbeentransferredtootherbeneficesbeforetheydied。\" IdidnotinquirewhetherWalterD—wasburiedthere,forofhimI hadneverheardbefore,butdemandedwhetherthechurchpossessedanyancientmonuments。 \"Thisistheoldestwhichremains,sir,\"saidtheclerk,andhepointedwithhisfingertoatablet—stoneoveralittledarkpewontherightsideoftheorielwindow。Therewasaninscriptionuponit,butowingtothedarknessIcouldnotmakeoutaletter。Theclerk,however,readasfollows。 1694。21Octr。 HicSepultusEstSidneusBynner。 \"DoyouunderstandLatin?\"saidItotheclerk。 \"Idonot,sir;Ibelieve,however,thatthestoneistothememoryofoneBynner。\" \"ThatisnotaWelshname,\"saidI。 \"Itisnot,sir,\"saidtheclerk。 \"ItseemstoberadicallythesameasBonner,\"saidI,\"thenameofthehorriblePopishBishopofLondoninMary’stime。DoanypeopleofthenameofBynnerresideinthisneighbourhoodatpresent?\" \"None,sir,\"saidtheclerk;\"andiftheBynnersaredescendantsofBonner,itis,perhaps,wellthattherearenone。\" Imadetheclerk,whoappearedalmostfittobeaclergyman,asmallpresent,andreturnedtotheinn。AfterpayingmybillI flungmysatchelovermyshoulder,tookmyumbrellabythemiddleinmyrighthand,andsetofffortheRhyadr。 Ienteredthenarrowglenatthewesternextremityofthetownandproceededbrisklyalong。Thescenerywasromanticallybeautiful; onmyleftwasthelittlebrook,thewatersofwhichrunthroughthetown;beyonditaloftyhill;onmyrightwasahillcoveredwithwoodfromthetoptothebottom。Ienjoyedthescene,andshouldhaveenjoyeditmorehadtherebeenalittlesunshinetogildit。 Ipassedthroughasmallvillage,thenameofwhichIthinkwasCynmen,andpresentlyovertookamanandboy。ThemansalutedmeinEnglish,andIenteredintoconversationwithhiminthatlanguage。HetoldmethathecamefromLlanGedwin,andwasgoingtoaplacecalledGwernsomething,inordertofetchhomesomesheep。AfteratimeheaskedmewhereIwasgoing。 \"IamgoingtoseethePistyllRhyadr,\"saidI Wehadthenjustcometothetopofarisingground。 \"Yonder’sthePistyll!\"saidhe,pointingtothewest。 Ilookedinthedirectionofhisfinger,andsawsomethingatagreatdistance,whichlookedlikeastripofgreylinenhangingoveracrag。 \"Thatisthewaterfall,\"hecontinued,\"whichsomanyoftheSaxonscometosee。AndnowImustbidyougood—bye,master;formywaytotheGwernisontheright\" Thenfollowedbytheboyheturnedasideintoawildroadatthecornerofasavage,precipitousrock。 CHAPTERLXX MountainScenery—TheRhyadr—WonderfulFeat。 AFTERwalkingaboutamilewiththecataractalwaysinsight,I emergedfromtheglenintoanoblongvalleyextendingfromsouthtonorth,havingloftyhillsonallsides,especiallyonthewest,fromwhichdirectionthecataractcomes。Iadvancedacrossthevaletillwithinafurlongofthisobject,whenIwasstoppedbyadeephollowornethervaleintowhichthewatersofthecataracttumble。OnthesideofthishollowIsatdown,andgazeddownbeforemeandoneitherside。Thewatercomesspoutingoveracragofperhapstwohundredfeetinaltitudebetweentwohills,onesouth—eastandtheothernearlynorth。Thesouthernhilliswoodedfromthetop,nearlydowntowherethecataractburstsforth;andso,butnotsothickly,isthenorthernhill,whichbearsasingularresemblancetoahog’sback。Grovesofpineareonthelowerpartsofboth;infrontofagrovelowdownonthenorthernhillisasmallwhitehouseofapicturesqueappearance。Thewaterofthecataract,afterreachingthebottomoftheprecipice,rushesinanarrowbrookdownthevaleinthedirectionofLlanRhyadr。 Tothenorth—east,betweenthehog—backedhillandanotherstrange— lookingmountain,isawildglen,fromwhichcomesabrooktoswellthewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr。Thesouth—westsideofthevaleissteep,andfromacleftofahillinthatquarteraslenderstreamrushingimpetuouslyjoinsthebrookoftheRhyadr,liketherillofthenorthernglen。TheprincipalobjectofthewholeisofcoursetheRhyadr。WhatshallIlikenitto?Iscarcelyknow,unlesstoanimmenseskeinofsilkagitatedanddisturbedbytempestuousblasts,ortothelongtailofagreycourseratfuriousspeed。Throughtheprofusionoflongsilverythreadsorhairs,orwhatlookedsuch,IcouldhereandthereseetheblacksidesofthecragdownwhichtheRhyadrprecipitateditselfwithsomethingbetweenaboomandaroar。 AftersittingonthevergeofthehollowforaconsiderabletimeI gotup,anddirectedmycoursetowardsthehouseinfrontofthegrove。IturneddownthepathwhichbroughtmetothebrookwhichrunsfromthenorthernglenintothewatersdischargedbytheRhyadr,andcrossingitbystepping—stones,foundmyselfonthelowestspurofthehog—backedhill。Asteeppathledtowardsthehouse。AsIdrewneartwohandsomedogscamerushingtowelcomethestranger。ComingtoadooronthenorthernsideofthehouseI tapped,andahandsomegirlofaboutthirteenmakingherappearance,IinquiredinEnglishthenearestwaythewaterfall;