Behindtheboxoutoftheforepartofthecaravanpeeredtwoorthreeblackchildren’sheads。Aprettylittlefoalaboutfourmonthsoldcamefriskingandgambollingnowbeforenowbesidethehorses，whilstacoltofsomesixteenmonthsfollowedmoreleisurelybehind。WhenthecaravanwasabouttenyardsdistantI
stopped，andraisingmylefthandwiththelittlefingerpointedaloft，Iexclaimed：
\"Shoon，Kaulomengro，shoon！InDibbel’snav，wheremaytubejawingto？\"
Stoppinghiscaravanwithconsiderabledifficultythesmallblackmanglaredatmeforamomentlikeawildcat，andthensaidinavoicepartlysnappish，partlykind：
\"Savoshantu？AreyouoneoftheIngrines？\"
\"IamthechapwhatcertainfolkscallstheRomanyRye。\"
\"Well，I’llbejiggeredifIwasn’tthinkingsoandifIwasn’tpenningsotomyjuwaaswewerewellingdownthechong。\"
\"Itisalongtimesincewelastmet，CaptainBosvile，forI
supposeImaycallyouCaptainnow？\"
\"Yes！theoldmanhasbeendeadandburiedthismanyayear，andhissticksandtitlesarenowmine。Poorsoul，Ihopeheishappy；
indeedIknowheis，forheliesinCockleshellchurchyard，theplacehewasalwayssofondof，andhashisSundaywaistcoatonhimwiththefinegoldbuttons，whichhewasalwayssoproudof。Ah，youmaywellcallitalongtimesincewemet—why，itcan’tbelessthanthirtyyear。\"
\"Somethingaboutthat—youwereaboythenofaboutfifteen。\"
\"SoIwas，andyouatallyoungslipofabouttwenty；well，howdidyoucometojinmande？\"
\"Why，Iknewyoubyyourfightingmug—thereain’tsuchanothermuginEngland。\"
\"Nomoretherean’t—myoldfatheralwaysusedtosayitwasofnousehittingitforitalwaysbrokehisknuckles。Well，itwaskindofyoutojinmandeaftersomanyyears。ThelasttimeIthinkI
sawyouwasnearBrummagem，whenyouweretravellingaboutwithJasperPetulengroand—Isay，what’sbecomeoftheyoungwomanyouusedtokeepcompanywith？\"
\"Idon’tknow。\"
\"Youdon’t？Well，shewasafineyoungwomanandavartuous。I
rememberherknockingdownandgivingablackeyetomyoldmother，whowaswonderfullydeepinRomany，formakingabitofagillieaboutyouandshe。Whatwasthesong？Lord，howmymemoryfailsme！Oh，hereitis：—
\"’AndoberkhoRyecanoOtehpivotehkhavoTulerasqueandoberkhopiraneeTehcorbatchaporpico。’\"
\"HaveyouseenJasperPetulengrolately？\"saidI。
\"Yes，Ihaveseenhim，butitwasataveryconsiderabledistance。
JasperPetulengrodoesn’tcomenearthelikesofwenow。Lord！youcan’tthinkwhatgrandfolksheandhiswifehavebecomeoflateyears，andallalongofatrumperylilwhichsomebodyhaswrittenaboutthem。Why，theyarehandandglovewiththeQueenandPrince，andfolkssaythathiswifeisgoingtobemadedameofhonour，andJasperJusticeofthePeaceandDeputyRangerofWindsorPark。\"
\"Onlythink，\"saidI。\"Andnowtellme，whatbroughtyouintoWales？\"
\"WhatbroughtmeintoWales？I’lltellyou；myownfool’shead。I
wasdoingnicelyintheKauloGavandtheneighbourhood，whenI
mustneedspackupandcomeintothesepartswithbagandbaggage，wifeandchilder。IthoughtthatWaleswaswhatitwassomethirtyyearsagonewhenourfokyusedtosay—forIwasneverherebefore—thattherewassomethingtobedoneinit；butIwasnevermoremistakeninmylife。ThecountryisoverrunwithHinditymescrey，woildIrish，withwhomtheRomanyfokystandnochance。Thefellowsunderworkmeattinkering，andthewomenoutscreammywifeattellingfortunes—moreover，theysaythecountryistheirsandnotintendedforniggerslikewe，andastheyaregenerallyinvastnumberswhatcanapoorlittleRomanfamilydobutfleeawaybeforethem？AprettyjourneyIhavemadeintoWales。HadInotcontrivedtopassoffapoggadobavengro—abroken—windedhorse—
atafair，Iatthismomentshouldbewithoutatringoruscheepieceinmypocket。IamnowmakingthebestofmywaybacktoBrummagem，andifeverIcomeagaintothisHinditycountrymayCalcraftnashme。\"
\"Iwonderyoudidn’ttrytoservesomeoftheIrishout，\"saidI。
\"Iservedoneout，brother；andmywifeandchilderhelpedtowipeoffalittleofthescore。Wehadstoppedonanicegreen，nearavillageoverthehillsinGlamorganshire，whenupcomesaHindityfamily，andbidsustakeourselvesoff。Nowitsohappenedthattherewasbutonemanandawomanandsomechilder，soIlaughed，andtoldthemtodriveusoff。Well，brother，withoutmanywords，therewasaregularscrimmage。TheHinditymushcameatme，theHinditymushiatymyjuwa，andtheHinditychavesatmychai。Itdidn’tlastlong，brother。InlessthanthreeminutesIhadhittheHinditymush，whowasaplagueybigfellow，butcouldn’tfight，justunderthepointofthechin，andsenthimtothegroundwithallhissensesgone。MyjuwahadalmostscratchedaneyeoutoftheHinditymushi，andmychaihadsenttheHinditychilderscamperingoverthegreen。’Whohasgottoquitnow？’saidItotheHinditymushafterhehadgotonhislegs，lookinglikeamanwhohasbeencutdownafterhangingjustaminuteandahalf。’Whohasgotnoticetoquit，now，Iwonder？’Well，brother，hedidn’tsayanything，nordidanyofthem，butafteralittletimetheyalltookthemselvesoff，withacarttheyhad，tothesouth。Justastheygottotheedgeofthegreen，however，theyturnedroundandgaveayellwhichmadeallourbloodruncold。Iknewwhatitmeant，andsaid，’Thisisnoplaceforus。’Sowegoteverythingtogetherandcameawayand，thoughthehorsesweretired，neverstoppedtillwehadgottenmilesfromtheplace；andwellitwasweactedaswedid，for，hadwestayed，IhavenodoubtthatawholeHindityclanwouldhavebeendownuponusbeforemorningandcutourthroats。\"
\"Well，\"saidI，\"farewell。Ican’tstayanylonger。Asitis，I
shallbelateatGutterVawr。\"
\"Farewell，brother！\"saidCaptainBosvile；and，givingacry，hecracked，hiswhipandsethishorsesinmotion。
\"Won’tyougiveussixpencetodrink？\"criedMrsBosvile，witharathershrillvoice。
\"Holdyourtongue，youshe—dog，\"saidCaptainBosvile。\"Isthatthewayinwhichyoutakeleaveofanoldfriend？Holdyourtongue，andlettheIngrinegentlemanjawonhisway。\"
IproceededonmywayasfastasIcould，forthedaywasnowclosingin。Myprogress，however，wasnotverygreat；fortheroadwassteep，andwascontinuallybecomingmoreso。Inabouthalf—an—
hourIcametoalittlevillage，consistingofthreeorfourhouses；oneofthem，atthedoorofwhichseveralcartswerestanding，borethesignofatavern。
\"Whatisthenameofthisplace？\"saidItoamanwhowasbreakingstonesontheroad。
\"CapelGwynfa，\"saidhe。
Rathersurprisedatthename，whichsignifiesinEnglishtheChapeloftheplaceofbliss，Iaskedthemanwhyitwascalledso。
\"Idon’tknow，\"saidtheman。
\"Wasthereeverachapelhere？\"saidI。
\"Idon’tknow，sir；thereisnonenow。\"
\"Idaresaytherewasintheoldtime，\"saidItomyself，asIwenton，\"inwhichsomeholyhermitprayedandtoldhisbeads，andoccasionallyreceivedbenightedstrangers。WhatapoeticalwordthatGwynfa，placeofbliss，is。OwenPughusesitinhistranslationof’ParadiseLost’toexpressParadise，forhehasrenderedthewordsParadiseLostbyColGwynfa—thelossoftheplaceofbliss。Iwonderwhethertheoldscholarpickedupthewordhere。Notunlikely。StrangefellowthatOwenPugh。WishI
hadseenhim。Nohopeofseeinghimnow，exceptintheheavenlyGwynfa。Wonderwhetherthereissuchaplace。TomPaynethinksthere’snot。StrangefellowthatTomPayne。Norfolkman。WishI
hadneverreadhim。\"
PresentlyIcametoalittlecottagewithatoll—bar。Seeingawomanstandingatthedoor，Iinquiredofherthenameofthegate。
\"CowslipGate，sir。\"
\"HasitanyWelshname？\"
\"NonethatIknowof，sir。\"
Thisplacewasataconsiderablealtitude，andcommandedanextensiveviewtothesouth，west，andnorth。Heightsuponheightsrosebehindittotheeast。Fromheretheroadrantothesouthforalittlewaynearlylevel，thenturnedabruptlytotheeast，andwasmoresteepthanever。Aftertheturn，Ihadahugechalkclifftoweringovermeontheright，andachalkprecipiceonmyleft。Nightwasnowcomingonfast，and，rathertomyuneasiness，massesofmistbegantopourdownthesidesofthemountain。I
hurriedon，theroadmakingfrequentturnings。Presentlythemistsweptdownuponme，andwassothickthatIcouldonlyseeafewyardsbeforeme。Iwasnowobligedtoslackenmypace，andtoadvancewithsomedegreeofcaution。Imovedoninthiswayforsometime，whensuddenlyIheardanoise，asifanumberofcartswerecomingrapidlydownthehill。Istopped，andstoodwithmybackcloseagainstthehighbank。Thenoisedrewnearer，andinaminuteIsawdistinctlythroughthemist，horses，carts，andformsofmenpassing。Inoneortwocasesthewheelsappearedtobewithinafewinchesofmyfeet。Iletthetraingoby，andthencriedoutinEnglish，\"AmIrightforGutterVawr？\"
\"Hey？\"saidavoice，afteramomentaryinterval。
\"AmIrightforGutterVawr？\"Ishoutedyetlouder。
\"Yessure！\"saidavoice，probablythesame。
Theninstantlyamuchroughervoicecried，\"WhotheDevilareyou？\"
Imadenoanswer，butwenton，whilstthetraincontinueditswayrumblingdownthemountain。AtlengthIgainedthetop，wheretheroadturnedandleddownasteepdescenttowardsthesouth—west。
Itwasnowquitenight，andthemistwasofthethickestkind。I
couldjustseethattherewasafrightfulprecipiceonmyleft，soIkepttotheright，huggingthesideofthehill。AsIdescendedIheardeverynowandthenloudnoisesinthevale，probablyproceedingfromstonequarries。Iwasdrenchedtotheskin，nay，throughtheskin，bythemist，whichIverilybelievewasmorepenetratingthanthatdescribedbyAbGwilym。WhenIhadproceededaboutamileIsawblazesdownbelow，resemblingthoseoffurnaces，andsoonaftercametothefootofthehill。Itwasherepouringwithrain，butIdidnotputupmyumbrella，asitwasimpossibleformetobemoredrenchedthanIwas。Crossingabridgeoverakindoftorrent，Ifoundmyselfamongstsomehouses。Ienteredoneofthemfromwhichablazeoflightandaroarofvoicesproceeded，and，oninquiringofanoldwomanwhoconfrontedmeinthepassage，IfoundthatIhadreachedmymuchneededhavenofrest，thetavernofGutterVawrinthecountyofGlamorgan。
CHAPTERXCIX
InnatGutterVawr—TheHurly—burly—BarayCaws—ChangeofManner—WelshMistrust—WondersofRussia—TheEmperor—TheGrandGhostStory。
THEoldwomanwhoconfrontedmeinthepassageoftheinnturnedouttobethelandlady。OnlearningthatIintendedtopassthenightatherhouse，sheconductedmeintoasmallroomontheright—handsideofthepassage，whichprovedtobetheparlour。Itwascoldandcomfortless，fortherewasnofireinthegrate。Shetoldme，however，thatoneshouldbelighted，andgoingout，presentlyreturnedwithacoupleofbuxomwenches，whoIsoonfoundwereherdaughters。ThegoodladyhadlittleornoEnglish；thegirls，however，hadplenty，andofagoodkindtoo。Theysoonlightedafire，andthenthemotherinquiredifIwishedforanysupper。
\"Certainly，\"saidI，\"forIhavenoteatenanythingsinceIleftLlandovery。WhatcanIhave？\"
\"Wehavevealandbacon，\"saidshe。
\"Thatwilldo，\"saidI；\"frymesomevealandbacon，andIshan’tcomplain。ButpraytellwhatprodigiousnoiseisthatwhichIhearontheothersideofthepassage？\"
\"Itisonlytheminersandthecartersinthekitchenmakingmerry，\"saidoneofthegirls。
\"Isthereagoodfirethere？\"saidI。
\"Ohyes，\"saidthegirl，\"wehavealwaysagoodfireinthekitchen。\"
\"Wellthen，\"saidI，\"Ishallgotheretillsupperisready，forI
amwettotheskin，andthisfirecastsverylittleheat。\"
\"Youwillfindthemaroughsetinthekitchen，\"saidthegirl。
\"Idon’tcareifIdo\"saidI；\"whenpeopleareroughIamcivil，andIhavealwaysfoundthatcivilitybeatsroughnessinthelongrun。\"ThengoingoutIcrossedthepassageandenteredthekitchen。
Itwasnearlyfilledwithroughunkemptfellows，smoking，drinking，whistling，singing，shoutingorjabbering，someinastanding，someinasitting，posture。Myentranceseemedatoncetobringeverythingtoadeadstop；thesmokersceasedtosmoke，thehandthatwasconveyingtheglassorthemugtothemouthwasarrestedinair，thehurly—burlyceasedandeveryeyewasturneduponmewithastrangeinquiringstare。WithoutallowingmyselftobedisconcertedIadvancedtothefire，spreadoutmyhandsbeforeitforaminute，gavetwoorthreedeep\"ahs\"ofcomfort，andthenturningroundsaid：\"Ratheradampnight，gentlemen—firecheeringtoonewhohascomethewholewayfromLlandovery—TakingabitofawalkinWales，toseethesceneryandtoobservethemannersandcustomsoftheinhabitants—Finecountry，gentlemen，nobleprospects，hillanddale—Finepeopletoo—open—heartedandgenerous；nowonder！descendantsoftheAncientBritons—HopeI
don’tintrude—otherroomrathercoldandsmoking—IfIdo，willretireatonce—don’twishtointerruptanygentlemanintheiravocationsordeliberations—scorntodoanythingungenteelorcalculatedtogiveoffence—hopeIknowhowtobehavemyself—
oughttodoso—learntgrammarattheHighSchoolatEdinburgh。\"
\"Offence，intrusion！\"criedtwentyvoices。\"Godblessyourhonour！
nointrusionandnooffenceatall；sitdown—sithere—won’tyoudrink？\"
\"Pleasetosithere，sir，\"saidanoldgrimy—lookingman，gettingupfromaseatinthechimney—corner—\"thisisnoseatformewhilstyouarehere，itbelongstoyou—sitdowninit，\"andlayingholdofmehecompelledmetositdowninthechairofdignity，whilsthalf—a—dozenhandspushedmugsofbeertowardsmyface；these，however，IdeclinedtopartakeofontheverysatisfactorygroundthatIhadnottakensupper，andthatitwasabadthingtodrinkbeforeeating，moreespeciallyaftercomingoutofamist。
\"Haveyouanynewstotellofthewar，sir？\"saidalargetoughfellow，whowassmokingapipe。
\"ThelastnewsthatIheardofthewar，\"saidI，\"wasthatthesnowwastwofeetdeepatSebastopol。\"
\"Iheardthree，\"saidtheman；\"however，iftherebebuttwoitmustbebadworkforthepoorsoldiers。IsupposeyouthinkthatweshallbeattheRussiansintheend。\"
\"No，Idon’t，\"saidI；\"theRussiansareayoungnationandweareanold；theyarecomingonandwearegoingoff；everydoghasitsday。\"
\"That’strue，\"saidtheman，\"butIamsorrythatyouthinkweshallnotbeattheRussians，fortheRussiansareabadset。\"
\"CanyouspeakWelsh？\"saidadarkishmanwithblack，bristlyhairandasmallinquisitiveeye。
\"Oh，IknowtwowordsinWelsh，\"saidI；\"baraycaws。\"
\"That’sbreadandcheese，\"saidtheman，thenturningtoaneighbourofhishesaidinWelsh：\"HeknowsnothingofCumraeg，onlytwowords；wemaysayanythingweplease；hecan’tunderstandus。Whatalongnosehehas！\"
\"Mindthathean’tnosingus，\"saidhisneighbour。\"Ishouldbelothtowagerthathedoesn’tunderstandWelsh；and，afterall，hedidn’tsaythathedidnot，butgotoffbysayingheunderstoodthosetwowords。\"
\"No，hedoesn’tunderstandWelsh，\"saidtheother；\"noSaisunderstandsWelsh，andthisisaSais。Nowwithregardtothatpieceofjob—workwhichyouandIundertook。\"Andforthwithheandtheotherenteredintoadisquisitionaboutthejob—work。
Thecompanysoongotintoitsoldtrain，drinkingandsmokingandmakingamostterrifichullabaloo。Nobodytookanyfarthernoticeofme。Isatsnuginthechimney—corner，tryingtodrymywetthings，andastheheatwasverygreat，partiallysucceeded。Inabouthalf—an—houroneofthegirlscametotellmethatmysupperwasready，whereuponIgotupandsaid：
\"Gentlemen，Ithankyouforyourcivility；Iamnowgoingtosupper；perhapsbeforeIturninforthenightImaylookinuponyouagain。\"ThenwithoutwaitingforananswerIleftthekitchenandwentintotheotherroom，whereIfoundalargedishofvealcutletsandfriedbaconawaitingme，andalsoasmokingbowlofpotatoes。OrderingajugofaleIsatdown，andwhatwithhungerandthegoodnessofthefare，foreverythingwasfirst—rate，madeoneofthebestsuppersIevermadeinmylife。
SupperoverIcalledforaglassofwhiskey—and—water，overwhichI
trifledforabouthalf—an—hourandthenbetookmyselfagaintothekitchen。AlmostassoonasIentered，thecompany—whoseemedtobediscussingsomepoint，andwerenotmakingmuchhurly—burly—
becamesilent，andlookedatmeinasuspiciousanduneasymanner。
Iadvancedtowardsthefire。Theoldmanwhohadoccupiedtheseatinthechimney—cornerandhadresignedittome，hadagaintakenpossessionofit。AsIdrewneartothefirehelookedupontheground，andseemedbynomeansdisposedtovacatetheplaceofhonour；afterafewmoments，however，hegotupandofferedmetheseatwithslightmotionofhishandandwithoutsayingaword。I
didnotdeclineitbutsatdown，andtheoldgentlemantookachairnear。Universalsilencenowprevailed；sullenlookswerecastatme，andIsawclearlyenoughthatIwasnotwelcome。Franknesswasnowmyonlyresource。\"What’sthematter，gentlemen？\"saidI；\"youaresilentanddon’tgreetmekindly；haveIgivenyouanycauseofoffence？\"Nooneutteredawordinreplyfornearlyaminute，whentheoldmansaidslowlyanddeliberately：\"Why，sir，thelongandshortofitisthis：wehavegotitintoourheadsthatyouunderstandeverywordofourdiscourse；now，doyouordoyounot？\"
\"Understandeverywordofyourdiscourse？\"saidI；\"IwishIdid；I
wouldgivefivepoundstounderstandeverywordofyourdiscourse。\"
\"That’sacleverattempttogetoff，sir，\"saidtheoldman，\"butitwon’texactlydo。TelluswhetheryouknowmoreWelshthanbaraycaws，ortospeakmoreplainly，whetheryouunderstandagooddealofwhatwesay。\"
\"Well，\"saidI，\"IdounderstandmoreWelshthanbaraycaws—IdounderstandaconsiderablepartofaWelshconversation；moreover，I
canreadWelsh，andhavethelifeofTomO’rNantatmyfingers’
ends。\"
\"Well，sir，thatisspeakingplain，andIwilltellyouplainlythatwedon’tliketohavestrangersamonguswhounderstandourdiscourse，moreespeciallyiftheybegentlefolks。\"
\"That’sstrange，\"saidI；\"aWelshmanorforeigner，gentleorsimple，maygointoapublic—houseinEngland，andnobodycaresastrawwhetherheunderstandsthediscourseofthecompanyornot。\"
\"ThatmaybethecustominEngland，\"saidtheoldman，\"butitisnotsoinWales。\"
\"Whathaveyougottoconceal？\"saidI；\"Isupposeyouarehonestmen。\"
\"Ihopeweare，sir，\"saidtheoldman；\"butImusttellyou，onceforall，thatwedon’tlikestrangerstolistentoourdiscourse。\"
\"Come，\"saidI，\"Iwillnotlistentoyourdiscourse，butyoushalllistentomine。IhaveawonderfuldealtosayifIoncebegin；I
havebeeneverywhere。\"
\"Well，sir，\"saidtheoldman，\"ifyouhaveanythingtotellusaboutwhereyouhavebeenandwhatyouhaveseen，weshallbegladtohearyou。\"
\"HaveyoueverbeeninRussia？\"shoutedavoice，thatofthelargeroughfellowwhoaskedmethequestionabouttheRussianwar。
\"Ohyes，IhavebeeninRussia，\"saidI。
\"Well，whatkindofacountryisit？\"
\"Verydifferentfromthis，\"saidI，\"whichisalittlecountryupinacorner，fullofhillsandmountains；thatisanimmensecountry，extendingfromtheBalticSeatotheconfinesofChina，almostasflatasapancake，therenotbeingahilltobeseenfornearlytwothousandmiles。\"
\"Averypoorcountryisn’tit，alwayscoveredwithiceandsnow？\"
\"Ohno；itisoneoftherichestcountriesintheworld，producingallkindsofgrain，withnobleriversintersectingit，andinsomepartscoveredwithstatelyforests。Inthewinter，whichisratherlong，thereisagooddealoficeandsnow，itistrue，butinthesummertheweatheriswarmerthanhere。\"
\"AndarethereanytownsandcitiesinRussia，sir，asthereareinBritain？\"saidtheoldmanwhohadresignedhisseatinthechimney—cornertome；\"Isupposenot，oriftherebe，nothingequaltoHerefordorBristol，inbothofwhichIhavebeen。\"
\"Ohyes，\"saidI，\"thereareplentyoftownsandcities。ThetwoprincipalonesareMoscowandSaintPetersburg，bothofwhicharecapitals。Moscowisafineoldcity，farupthecountry，andwastheoriginalseatofempire。InitthereisawonderfulbuildingcalledtheKremlin，situatedonahill。Itispartlypalace，partlytemple，andpartlyfortress。InoneofitshallsareI
don’tknowhowmanycrowns，takenfromvariouskingswhomtheRussianshaveconquered。ButthemostremarkablethingintheKremlinisahugebellinacellarorcave，closebyoneofthechurches；itistwelvefeethigh，andthesounditgiveswhenstruckwithanironbar，fortherearenoclapperstoRussianbells，issoloudthatthecommonRussianssayitcanbeheardovertheempire。Theothercity，SaintPetersburg，wheretheCourtgenerallyreside，isamodernandveryfinecity；sofineindeed，thatIhavenohesitationinsayingthatneitherBristolnorHerefordisworthytobenamedinthesamedaywithit。Manyofthestreetsaremilesinlength，andstraightasanarrow。TheNefskyProspect，asitiscalled，astreetwhichrunsfromthegrandsquare，wherestandstheEmperor’spalace，tothemonasteryofSaintAlexanderNefsky，isnearlythreemilesinlength，andisfullofnobleshopsandhouses。TheNeva，arivertwiceasbroadandtwiceasdeepastheThames，andwhosewatersareclearascrystal，runsthroughthetown，havingoneachsideofitasuperbquay，fencedwithgranite，whichaffordsoneofthemostdelightfulwalksimaginable。IfIhadmychoiceofallthecitiesoftheworldtolivein，IwouldchooseSaintPetersburg。\"
\"AnddidyoueverseetheEmperor？\"saidtheroughfellow，whomI
havemorethanoncementioned，\"didyoueverseetheEmperorNicholas？\"
\"Ohyes：Ihaveseenhimfrequently。\"
\"Well，whatkindofamanishe？weshouldliketoknow。\"
\"Amanofcolossalstature，withafine，noble，butrathersternandsevereaspect。IthinkInowseehim，withhisgreycloak，cockedhat，andwhitewavingplumes，stridingdowntheNefskyProspect，andtoweringbyawholeheadoverotherpeople。\"
\"Bravo！Didyoueverseehimattheheadofhissoldiers？\"
\"Ohyes！IhaveseentheEmperorreviewfortythousandofhischosentroopsintheChampsdeMars，andafamoussightitwas。
Therestoodthegreat，proudmanlookingathiswarriorsastheymanoeuvredbeforehim。Two—thirdsofthemwerecavalry，andeachhorsemanwasmountedonabeautifulbloodchargerofCossackorEnglishbreed，andarrayedinasuperbuniform。Theblaze，glitterandgloryweretoomuchformyeyes，andIwasfrequentlyobligedtoturnthemaway。Thesceneuponthewholeputmeinmindofanimmensefieldoftulipsofvariousdyes，forthecoloursofthedresses，ofthebannersandtheplumes，wereasgorgeousandmanifoldasthehuesofthosequeenlyflowers。\"
\"Bravo！\"saidtwentyvoices；\"thegentlemanspeakslikeanareithiwr。HaveyoubeeninothercountriesbesidesRussia？\"
\"Ohyes！IhavebeeninTurkey，thepeopleofwhicharenotChristians，butfrequentlyputChristianstoshamebytheirgoodfaithandhonesty。IhavebeeninthelandoftheMaugrabins，orMoors—apeoplewholiveonasavourydishcalledcouscousoo，andhavethegloomiestfacesandthemostferociousheartsunderheaven。IhavebeeninItaly，whosepeople，thoughthemostcleverintheworld，arethemostunhappy，owingtothetyrannyofabeingcalledthePope，who，whenIsawhim，appearedtobeundertheinfluenceofstrongdrink。IhavebeeninPortugal，thepeopleofwhichsupplythewholeworldwithwine，anddrinkonlywaterthemselves。IhavebeeninSpain，averyfinecountry，thepeopleofwhichareneversohappyaswhenpayingotherfolks’reckonings。
Ihavebeen—butthewindisblowingwildlywithout，andtherainpeltingagainstthewindows；thisisacapitalnightforaghoststory；shallItellyouaghoststorywhichIlearntinSpain？\"
\"Yes，sir，praydo；weallloveghoststories。DotellustheghoststoryofSpain。\"
ThereuponItoldthecompanyLopedeVega’sghoststory，whichisdecidedlythebestghoststoryintheworld。
Longandloudwastheapplausewhichfollowedtheconclusionofthegrandghoststoryoftheworld，inthemidstofwhichIgotup，badethecompanygood—night，andmademyexit。ShortlyafterwardsIdesiredtobeshowntomysleepingapartment。Itwasaverysmallroomupstairs，inthebackpartofthehouse；andImakenodoubtwasthechamberofthetwopoorgirls，thelandlady’sdaughters，asIsawvariousarticlesoffemaleattirelyingabout。
Thespiritofknight—errantrywithinmewasnot，however，sufficientlystrongtopreventmetakingpossessionofthefemaledormitory；so，forthwithdivestingmyselfofeveryportionofmyhabiliments，whichweresteaminglikeaboilingtea—kettle，Igotintobedbetweentheblankets，andinaminutewasfastinthearmsofMorpheus。
CHAPTERC
Morning—ACheerlessScene—TheCarter—OdetoGlamorgan—
StartlingHalloo—One—sidedLiberty—ClericalProfession—DeCourcy—LoveoftheDrop—IndependentSpirit—AnotherPeople。
ISLEPTsoundlythroughthenight。Atabouteighto’clockonthefollowingmorningIgotupandlookedoutofthewindowofmyroom，whichfrontedthenorth。Astrangescenepresenteditself：aroaringbrookwasfoamingalongtowardsthewest，justunderthewindow。Immediatelybeyonditwasabank，notofgreenturf，greyrock，orbrownmould，butofcoalrubbish，cokeandcinders；onthetopofthisbankwasafellowperformingsomedirtyofficeorother，withaspadeandbarrow；beyondhim，onthesideofahill，wasatramway，upwhichahorsewasstraining，drawingaloadofsomethingtowardsthenorth—west。Beyondthetramwaywasagroveofyellow—lookingfirs；beyondthegrovearangeofwhitehouseswithblueroofs，occupied，Isuppose，byminersandtheirfamilies；
