andbeyondtheseIcaughtasightofthemountainonthetopofwhichIhadbeenthenightbefore—onlyapartialone，however，aslargemassesofmistwerestillhangingaboutit。Themorningwasmoistanddripping，andnothingcouldlookmorecheerlessanduncomfortablethantheentirescene。
Iputonmythings，whichwerestillnothalfdry，andwentdownintothelittleparlour，whereIfoundanexcellentfireawaitingme，andatablespreadforbreakfast。Thebreakfastwasdelicious，consistingofexcellenttea，butteredtoast，andGlamorgansausages，whichIreallythinkarenotawhitinferiortothoseofEpping。AfterbreakfastIwentintothekitchen，whichwasnowonlyoccupiedbytwoorthreepeople。Seeingalargebrushonadresser，Itookitup，andwasabouttobrushmynetherhabiliments，whichwereterriblybespatteredwithhalf—driedmire。
Before，however，Icouldbegin，upstartedoneofthemen，awild，shock—headedfellowdressedlikeacarter，inroughbluefriezecoat，yellow，broadcorduroytrowsers，greywoollenstockingsandhighlows，andsnatchingthebrushoutofmyhand，felltobrushingmemostvigorously，puffingandblowingallthetimeinamosttremendousmanner。Ididnotrefusehisservices，butlethimgoon，andtorewardhimasIthought，spokekindlytohim，askinghimvariousquestions。\"Areyouacarter？\"saidI。Noanswer。\"OneofTwmO’rNant’speople？\"Noanswer。\"FamousfellowthatTwmO’rNant，wasn’the？DidyoueverhearhowhegotthegreattreeinatCarmarthenGate？Whatiswoodperfootatpresent？Whomdoyoucartfor？Orareyouyourownmaster？Ifso，howmanyhorsesdoyoukeep？\"
Tonotoneofthesequestions，nortoadozenotherswhichIput，bothinEnglishandWelsh，didmyfriendwiththebrushreturnanyverbalanswer，thoughIcouldoccasionallyhearakindofstifledgiggleproceedingfromhim。Havingatlengththoroughlybrushednotonlymyclothes，butmybootsandmyhat，whichlastarticlehetookfrommyhead，andplaceditonagainverydexterously，afterbrushingit，heputthebrushdownonthedresser，andthenadvancingtomemademeabow，andwavinghisforefingerbackwardsandforwardsbeforemyface，hesaid，withabroadgrin：\"Nicegentleman—willdoanythingforhimbutanswerquestions，andlethimhearmydiscourse。Lovetolistentohispleasantstoriesofforeignlands，ghostsandtylwithteg；butbeforehim，deemitwisetobemum，quitemum。Knowwhathecomesabout。Wantstoheardiscourseofpoorman，thathemaylearnfromitpoorman’slittlewaysandinfirmities，andmarkthemdowninonesmall，littlebooktoserveforfuntoLordPalmerstonandtheothergreatgentlefolksinLondon。Niceman，civilman，Idon’tdeny；andclebbermantoo，forheknowsWelsh，andhasbeeneverywhere—butfox—oldfox—
livesatPlasyCadno。\"（18）
Havingbeeninformedthattherewasaconsiderableironfoundrycloseby，Ithoughtitwouldbeworthmywhiletogoandseeit。I
enteredthepremises，andwasstandingandlookinground，whenamanwiththeappearanceofarespectablemechaniccameupandofferedtoshowmeovertheplace。Igladlyacceptedhisoffer，andheshowedmeallabouttheironfoundry。Isawalargesteam—
engineatfullplay，terriblefurnaces，andimmenseheapsofburning，cracklingcinders，andafierystreamofmoltenmetalrollingalong。Afterseeingwhattherewastobeseen，Iofferedapieceofsilvertomykindconductor，whichheatoncerefused。Onmyaskinghim，however，togototheinnandhaveafriendlyglass，hesmiled，andsaidhehadnoobjection。Sowewenttotheinn，andhadtwofriendlyglassesofwhiskey—and—watertogether，andalsosomediscourse。IaskedhimiftherewereanyEnglishemployedonthepremises。\"None，\"saidhe，\"norIrisheither；weareallWelsh。\"ThoughhewasaWelshman，hisnamewasaverycommonEnglishone。
Afterpayingthereckoning，whichonlyamountedtothreeandsixpence，IdepartedforSwansea，distantaboutthirteenmiles。
GutterVawrconsistsofonestreet，extendingforsomelittlewayalongtheSwansearoad，thefoundry，andanumberofhutsandhousesscatteredhereandthere。Thepopulationiscomposedalmostentirelyofminers，theworkersatthefoundry，andtheirfamilies。
ForthefirsttwoorthreemilesthecountrythroughwhichIpasseddidnotatallprepossessmeinfavourofGlamorganshire：itconsistedoflow，sullen，peatyhills。Subsequently，however，itimprovedrapidly，becomingbold，wild，andpleasantlywooded。Theaspectofthedayimproved，also，withtheappearanceofthecountry。WhenIfirststartedthemorningwaswretchedanddrizzly，butinlessthananhouritclearedupwonderfully，andthesunbegantoflashout。AsIlookedonthebrightluminaryI
thoughtofAbGwilym’sodetothesunandGlamorgan，andwithbreastheavingandwitheyesfulloftears，Ibegantorepeatpartsofit，orratherofatranslationmadeinmyhappyboyishyears：—
\"Eachmorn，benignofcountenance，UponGlamorgan’spennonglance！
EachafternooninbeautyclearAbovemyowndearboundsappear！
Brightoutlineofablessedclime，Again，thoughsunk，arisesublime—
Uponmyerrand，swiftrepair，AnduntogreenGlamorganbearGooddaysandtermsofcourtesyFrommydearcountryandfromme！
Moveround—butneedItheecommand？—
Itschalk—whitehalls，whichcheerfulstand—
Pleasantthyownpavilionstoo—
Itsfieldsandorchardsfairtoview。
\"O，pleasantisthytaskandhighInradiantwarmthtoroamthesky，Tokeepfromillthatkindlyground，Itsmeadsandfarms，wheremeadisfound，Alandwhosecommonslivecontent，Whereeachman’slotisexcellent，Wherehoststohailtheeshallupstand，Whereladsareboldandlassesbland，AlandIoftfromhillthat’shighHavegazeduponwithraptur’deye；
Wheremaidsaretrainedinvirtue’sschool，Whereduteouswivesspindaintywool；
Acountrywitheachgiftsupplied，ConfrontingCornwall’scliffsofpride。\"
CametoLlanguick，ahamletsituatednearatremendousgorge，thesidesofwhichwerecoveredwithwood。ThencetothevillageofTawyBridge，atthebottomofabeautifulvalley，throughwhichrunstheTawy，which，aftertheTaf，isthemostconsiderableriverinGlamorganshire。Continuingmycourse，Ipassedbyanenormousedificewhichstoodonmyrighthand。Ithadhugechimneys，whichwerecastingforthsmoke，andfromwithinIheardthenoiseofasteam—engineandtheroaroffurnaces。
\"Whatplaceisthis？\"said，Itoaboy。
\"Gwaithhaiarn，sir；ymperthyniMrPearson。MrPearson’sironworks，sir。\"
Iproceeded，andinabouthalf—an—hoursawamanwalkingbeforemeinthesamedirectioninwhichIwas。Hewasgoingverybriskly，butIsooncameuptohim。Hewasasmall，well—madefellow，withreddishhairandruddy，determinedcountenance，somewhattanned。
Heworeastrawhat，checkeredshirt，openattheneck，canvastrousersandbluejacket。Onhisfeetwereshoesremarkablythin，butnostockings，andinhishandheheldastoutstick，withwhich，justbeforeIovertookhim，hestruckaroundstonewhichlayontheground，sendingitflyingatleastfiftyyardsbeforehimontheroad，andfollowingitinitsflightwithawildandsomewhatstartlinghalloo。
\"Good—day，myfriend，\"saidI；\"youseemtobeabletouseastick。\"
\"AndsureIoughttobe，yourhonour，seeingashowmyfathertaughtme，whowasthebestfightingmanwithastickthattheShanavestseverhad。ManyistheheadofaCaravautthathehasbrokenwithsomesuchanAlpeenwattleastheoneIamcarryingwithmehere。\"
\"Agoodthing，\"saidI，\"thattherearenoOldWaist—coatsandCravatsatpresent，atleastbloodyfactionsbearingthosenames。\"
\"Yourhonourthinksso！Faith！Iamclaneofacontraryopinion。
IwishtheouldShanavestsandCaravautswerefightingstill，andI
amongthem。Faith！therewassomelifeinIrelandintheirdays。\"
\"Andplentyofdeathtoo，\"saidI。\"HowfortunateitisthattheIrishhavetheEnglishamongthemtopreventtheircuttingeachother’sthroats。\"
\"TheEnglishpreventtheIrishfromcuttingeachother’sthroats！
Well，iftheydo，itisonlythattheymayhavethepleasureofcuttingthemthemselves。Thebloodytyrants！toolonghastheirfootbeenupontheneckofpooroldIreland。\"
\"HowdotheEnglishtyranniseoverIreland？\"
\"Howdotheytyranniseoverher？Don’ttheypreventherfromhavingthefreeexerciseofherCatholicreligion，andmakeherhelptosupporttheirownProtestantone？\"
\"Well，anddon’ttheRomanCatholicspreventtheProtestantsfromhavingthefreeexerciseoftheirreligion，whenevertheyhappentobethemostnumerous，anddon’ttheymakethemhelptosupporttheRomanCatholicreligion？\"
\"Ofcoursetheydo，andquiteright！HadImywill，thereshouldn’tbeaplaceofProtestantworshipleftstanding，oraProtestantchurlallowedtogoaboutwithaheadunbroken。\"
\"ThenwhydoyoublametheProtestantsforkeepingtheRomansalittleunder？\"
\"WhydoIblamethem？Apurtyquestion！Why，an’ttheywrong，andan’tweright？\"
\"Buttheysaythattheyarerightandyouwrong。\"
\"Theysay！whomindswhattheysay？Haven’twethewordoftheblessedPopethatweareright？\"
\"AndtheysaythattheyhavethewordoftheblessedGospelthatyouarewrong。\"
\"TheGospel！whocaresfortheGospel？SurelyyouarenotgoingtocomparetheGospelwiththePope？\"
\"Well，theycertainlyarenottobenamedinthesameday。\"
\"Theyarenot？Thengoodlucktoyou！Wearebothofthesameopinion。Ah，IthoughtyourhonourwasaraleCatholic。Now，tellmefromwhatkingdomofIrelanddoesyourhonourhail？\"
\"Why，IwaspartlyeducatedinMunster。\"
\"InMunster！Hoorah！Here’sthehandofacountrymantoyourhonour。Ah，itwasasytobeseenfromthelearning，whichyourhonourshows，thatyourhonourisfromMunster。There’snospotinIrelandlikeMunsterforlearning。Whatsaystheoldsong？
\"’Ulsterforasoldier，Connaughtforathief，Munsterforlearning，AndLeinsterforbeef。’
\"HoorahforlearnedMunster！anddownwithbeggarly，thievishConnaught！IwouldthataConnaughtmanwouldcomeathwartmenow，thatImightbreakhisthief’sheadwithmyAlpeen。\"
\"Youdon’tseemtoliketheConnaughtmen，\"saidI。
\"Likethem！whocanlikethem？aparcelofbeggarlythievishblackguards。SoyourhonourwasedicatedinMunster—Imanepartlyedicated。Isupposebyyoursayingthatyouwerepartlyedicated，thatyourhonourwasintendedfortheclericalprofession，butbeingoverfondofthedropwasforcedtolavecollegebeforeyouredicationwasquitecompleted，andsoforwantofabetterprofessiontookupwiththatofmerchandise。Ah，theloveofthedropatcollegehaspreventedmanyacleveryoungfellowfromtakingholyorders。Well，it’sapitybutitcan’tbehelped。Iamfondofadropmyself，andwhenwegetto—shallbehappytoofferyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。IhopeyourhonourandIshallsplicethemainbracetogetherbeforewepart。\"
\"Isuppose，\"saidI，\"byyourtalkingofsplicingthemainbracethatyouareasailor。\"
\"Iam，yourhonour，andhailfromtheCoveofCorkinthekingdomofMunster。\"
\"Iknowitwell，\"saidI，\"itisthebestsea—basinintheworld。
Well，howcameyouintotheseparts？\"
\"I’lltellyourhonour；myshipisatSwansea，andhavingarelationworkingatthefoundrybehindusIcametoseehim。\"
\"Areyouintheroyalservice？\"
\"Iamnot，yourhonour；Iwasonceintheroyalservice，buthavingadisputewiththeboatswainatSpithead，Igavehimawipe，jumpedoverboardandswamashore。AfterthatIsailedforCuba，gotintothemerchants’servicethere，andmadeseveralvoyagestotheBlackCoast。AtpresentIamintheserviceofthemerchantsofCork。\"
\"Iwonderthatyouarenotnowintheroyalservice，\"saidI，\"sinceyouaresofondoffighting。ThereishotworkgoingonatpresentuptheBlackSea，andbravemen，especiallyIrishmen，areingreatrequest。\"
\"Yes，braveIrishmenarealwaysingreatrequestwithEnglandwhenshehasabattletofight。Atothertimestheyarelefttolieinthemudwiththechainroundtheirnecks。IthasbeensoeversincethetimeofDeCourcy，andIsupposealwayswillbeso，unlessIrishmenallbecomeofmymind，whichisnotlikely。WeretheIrishallofmymind，theEnglishwouldfindnoIrishchampiontofighttheirbattleswhentheFrenchortheRussianscometobeardthem。\"
\"ByDeCourcy，\"saidI，\"youmeanthemanwhomtheKingofEnglandconfinedintheTowerofLondonaftertakingfromhimhisbaronyinthecountyofCork。\"
\"Ofcourse，yourhonour，andwhomhekeptintheTowertilltheKingofFrancesentoverachampiontoinsultandbeardhim，whenthekingwasgladtotakeDeCourcyoutofthedungeontofighttheFrenchchampion，fordivilaoneofhisownEnglishfightingmendaredtaketheFrenchmaninhand。\"
\"AfinefellowthatDeCourcy，\"saidI。
\"Rathertoofondofthedropthough，likeyourhonourandmyself，forafterhehadcausedtheFrenchchampiontofleebackintoFrancehelostthegreaterpartoftherewardwhichtheKingofEnglandpromisedhim，solelybymakingtoofreewiththestrongdrink。Doesyourhonourrememberthatpartofthestory？\"
\"IthinkIdo，\"saidI，\"butIshouldbeverygladtohearyourelateit。\"
\"Thenyourhonourshall。RightgladwastheKingofEnglandwhentheFrenchchampionfledbacktoFrance，fornosoonerdidthedirtyspalpeenhearthattheyweregoingtobringDeCourcyagainsthim，thefameofwhosestrengthandcouragefilledthewholeworld，thanhebetookhimselfbacktohisowncountry，andwasneverheardofmore。Rightglad，Isay，wastheKingofEngland，andgaveleavetoDeCourcytoreturntoIreland。’Andyoushallhave，’
saidhe，’ofthebaronywhichItookfromyouallthatyoucanrideroundonthefirstdayofyourreturn。’SoDeCourcybetookhimselftoIrelandandtohisbarony，buthewasanythingbutaluckyman，thisDeCourcy，forhisfriendsandrelationsandtenantry，hearingofhiscoming，preparedagrandfestivalforhim，withallkindsofilligantviandsandpowerfulliquors，andwhenhearrivedthereitwaswaitingforhim，anddowntoithesat，andate，anddrank，andforjoyofseeinghimselfoncemoreamongsthisfriendsandtenantryinthehallofhisforefathers，andforloveofthedrop，whichhealwayshad，hedrankofthepowerfulliquorsmorethanheought，andtheupshotwasthathebecamedrunk，agusdobhianduinemaithsinmisgeadhdoceatheroglog；thegoodgentlemanwasdrunktillfouro’clock，andwhenheawokehefoundthathehadbuttwohoursofdayremainingtowinbackhisbravebarony。However，hedidnotloseheart，butmountedhishorseandsetoffridingasfastasamanjustpartlyrecoveredfromintoxicationcouldbeexpectedtodo，andhecontrivedtorideroundfourparishes，andonlyfour，andthesefourparisheswereallthatherecoveredofhisbravebarony，andallthathehadtoliveupontillhisdyingday，andallthathehadtoleavetohisdescendants，sothatDeCourcycouldscarcelybecalledaveryluckyman，afterall。\"
ShortlyaftermyfriendthesailorhadconcludedhisaccountofDeCourcy，wearrivedinthevicinityofasmalltownorratherconsiderablevillage。Itstoodontheright—handsideoftheroad，frontingtheeast，havingahighromantichillbehinditonthesidesofwhichwerewoods，groves，andpleasant—lookingwhitehouses。
\"Whatplaceisthis？\"saidItomycompanion。
\"Thisis—，yourhonour；andhere，ifyourhonourwillacceptaglassofwhiskeywewillsplicethemainbracetogether。\"
\"Thankyou，\"saidI；\"butIaminhastetogettoSwansea。
Moreover，ifIamoverfondofthedrop，asyousayIam，thesoonerIbegintopractiseabstinencethebetter。\"
\"Verytrue，yourhonour！Well，atanyrate，whenyourhonourgetstoSwansea，youwillnotbeabletosaythatPatFlannaganwalkedformileswithyourhonouralongtheroad，withoutofferingyourhonouraglassofwhiskey。\"
\"NorshallPatFlannaganbeabletosaythesamethingofmyhonour。IhaveashillinginmypocketatPatFlannagan’sservice，ifhechoosestosplicewithitthemainbraceforhimselfandforme。\"
\"Thankyourhonour；butIhaveashillinginmyownpocket，andadollartoo，andafive—poundnotebesides；soIneedn’tbebeholdenfordrinkmoneytoanybodyunderthesun。\"
\"Wellthen，farewell！Here’smyhand！—SlanleataPhatraicuiFlannagan！\"
\"Slanleatadhuine—uasail！\"saidPatrick，givingmehishand；\"andhealth，hope，andhappinesstoye。\"
Thereuponheturnedasideto—，andIcontinuedmywaytoSwansea。
ArrivedataplacecalledGlandwr，abouttwomilesfromSwansea，I
foundthatIwassplashedfromtoptotoe，fortheroadswerefrightfullymiry，andwassorrytoperceivethatmybootshadgivenwayatthesoles，largepiecesofwhichwerestickingout。Imust，however，dothepoorthingsthejusticetosay，thatitwasnowonderthattheywereinthisdilapidatedcondition，forinthosebootsIhadwalkedatleasttwohundredmiles，overallkindsofpaths，sinceIhadgotthemsoledatLlangollen。\"Well，\"saidItomyself，\"itwon’tdotoshowmyselfatSwanseainthiscondition，moreespeciallyasIshallgotothebesthotel；Imusttryandgetmyselfmadealittledecenthere。\"Seeingalittleinn，onmyright，Ienteredit，andaddressingmyselftoaneatcomfortablelandlady，whowasstandingwithinthebar，Isaid：—
\"Pleasetoletmehaveaglassofale！—andhearkee；asIhavebeenwalkingalongtheroad，Ishouldbegladoftheservicesofthe’boots。’\"
\"Verygood，sir，\"saidthelandladywithacurtsey。
Thenshowingmeintoanicelittlesandedparlour，shebroughtmetheglassofale，andpresentlysentinaladwithaboot—jacktoministertome。Oh，whatcan’talittlemoneyeffect？Forsixpenceinthatsmallniceinn，Ihadaglassofale，mybootscleaned，andtheexcrescencescutoff，myclotheswipedwithadwile，andthenpassedoverwithabrush，andwasmyselfthankedoverandoveragain。Startingagainwithallthespiritedconfidenceofonewhohasjustcastoffhisslough，IsoonfoundmyselfinthesuburbsofSwansea。AsIpassedunderwhatappearedtobearailroadbridgeIinquiredinWelshofanancient—lookingman，incoalyhabiliments，ifitwasone。Heansweredinthesamelanguagethatitwas，theninstantlyaddedinEnglish：—
\"YouhavetakenyourlastfarewellofWales，sir；it’snousespeakingWelshfartheron。\"
Ipassedsomeimmenseedifices，probablymanufactories，andwassoonconvincedthat，whetherIwasinWalesornot，IwasnolongeramongstWelsh。ThepeoplewhomImetdidnotlooklikeWelsh。
TheyweretallerandbulkierthantheCambrians，andwerespeakingadissonantEnglishjargon。ThewomenhadmuchtheappearanceofDutchfisherwomen；someofthemwerecarryinghugeloadsontheirheads。IspokeinWelshtotwoorthreewhomIovertook。
\"NoWelsh，sir！\"
\"Whydon’tyouspeakWelsh？\"saidI。
\"Becauseweneverlearntit。WearenotWelsh。\"
\"Whoareyouthen？\"
\"English；somecallsusFlamings。\"
\"Ah，ah！\"saidItomyself；\"Ihadforgot。\"
PresentlyIenteredthetown，alarge，bustling，dirty，gloomyplace，andinquiringforthefirsthotel，wasdirectedtothe\"MackworthArms，\"inWineStreet。
AssoonasIwasshownintotheparlourIsummonedthe\"boots，\"andonhismakinghisappearanceIsaidinasternvoice：\"Mybootswantsoling；letthembedonebyto—morrowmorning。\"
\"Can’tbe，sir；it’snowSaturdayafternoon，theshoemakercouldn’tbeginthemto—night！\"
\"Butyoumustmakehim！\"saidI；\"andlookhere，Ishallgivehimashillingextra，andyouanextrashillingforseeingafterhim。\"
\"Yes，sir；I’llseeafterhim—theyshallbedone，sir。Bringyouyourslippersinstantly。GladtoseeyouagaininSwansea，sir，lookingsowell。\"
CHAPTERCI
Swansea—TheFlemings—TowardsEngland。
SWANSEAiscalledbytheWelshAbertawe，whichsignifiesthemouthoftheTawy。Aber，asIhavemorethanoncehadoccasiontoobserve，signifiestheplacewhereariverentersintotheseaorjoinsanother。ItisaGaelicaswellasaCumricword，beingfoundintheGaelicnamesAberdeenandLochaber，andthereisgoodreasonforsupposingthatthewordharbourisderivedfromit。
SwanseaorSwanseyisacompoundwordofScandinavianorigin，whichmaymeaneitherariveraboundingwithswans，ortheriverofSwanr，thenameofsomenorthernadventurerwhosettleddownatitsmouth。ThefinaleaoreyistheNorwegianaa，whichsignifiesarunningwater；itisoffrequentoccurrenceinthenamesofriversinNorway，andisoftenfound，similarlymodified，inthoseofothercountrieswheretheadventurousNorwegiansformedsettlements。
Swanseafirstbecameaplaceofsomeimportanceshortlyafterthebeginningofthetwelfthcentury。Intheyear1108，thegreaterpartofFlandershavingbeensubmergedbythesea（19）animmensenumberofFlemingscameovertoEngland，andentreatedofHenrytheFirstthekingthenoccupyingthethrone，thathewouldallallottothemlandsinwhichtheymightsettle，ThekingsentthemtovariouspartsofWales，whichhadbeenconqueredbyhisbaronsorthoseofhispredecessors：aconsiderablenumberoccupiedSwanseaandtheneighbourhood；butfarthegreaterpartwenttoDyfed，generallybutimproperlycalledPembroke，thesouth—easternpartofwhich，byfarthemostfertile，theyentirelytookpossessionof，leavingtotheWelshtherest，whichisverymountainousandbarren。
IhavealreadysaidthatthepeopleofSwanseastandoutinbroaddistinctnessfromtheCumry，differingfromtheminstature，language，dress，andmanners，andwishedtoobservethatthesamethingmaybesaidoftheinhabitantsofeverypartofWaleswhichtheFlemingscolonisedinanyconsiderablenumbers。
Ifoundtheaccommodationverygoodatthe\"MackworthArms\"；I
passedtheSaturdayeveningveryagreeably，andsleptwellthroughoutthenight。ThenextmorningtomygreatjoyIfoundmyboots，capitallyrepaired，awaitingmebeforemychamberdoor。Ohthemightyeffectofalittlemoney！AfterbreakfastIputthemon，andasitwasSundaywentoutinordertogotochurch。Thestreetswerethrongedwithpeople；anewmayorhadjustbeenelected，andhisworship，attendedbyanumberofhalbertandjavelinmen，wasgoingtochurchtoo。Ifollowedtheprocession，whichmovedwithgreatdignityandofcourseveryslowly。Thechurchhadahighsquaretower，andlookedaveryfineedificeontheoutside，andnolesssowithin，forthenavewasloftywithnoblepillarsoneachside。Istoodduringthewholeoftheserviceasdidmanyothers，forthecongregationwassogreatthatitwasimpossibletoaccommodateallwithseats。Theritualwasperformedinaverysatisfactorymanner，andwasfollowedbyanexcellentsermon。Iamashamedtosaythathaveforgotthetext，butIrememberagooddealofthediscourse。ThepreachersaidamongstotherthingthattheGospelwasnotpreachedinvain，andthatheverymuchdoubtedwhetherasermonwaseverdeliveredwhichdidnotdosomegood。OntheconclusionoftheserviceIstrolledaboutinordertoseethetownandwhatpertainedtoit。Thetownisofconsiderablesize，withsomeremarkableedifices，spaciousandconvenientquays，andacommodiousharbourintowhichtheriverTawyflowingfromthenorthemptiesitself。ThetownandharbourareoverhungonthesideoftheeastbyaloftygreenmountainwithaWelshname，nodoubtexceedinglyappropriate，butwhichIregrettosayhasescapedmymemory。
AfterhavingseenallthatIwished，Ireturnedtomyinnanddischargedallmyobligations。Ithendeparted，framingmycourseeastwardtowardsEngland，havingtraversedWalesnearlyfromnorthtosouth。
CHAPTERCII
LeaveSwansea—ThePandemonium—NeathAbbey—VariedScenery。
ITwasabouttwoo’clockofadullandgloomyafternoonwhenI
startedfromAbertawyorSwansea，intendingtostopatNeath，someeightmilesdistant。AsIpassedagainthroughthesuburbsIwasstruckwiththeirlengthandtheevidencesofenterprisewhichtheyexhibited—enterprise，however，evidentlychieflyconnectedwithironandcoal，foralmosteveryobjectlookedawfullygrimy。
CrossingabridgeIproceededtotheeastupabroadandspaciousvalley，theeasternsideofwhichwasformedbyrusset—colouredhills，throughavistaofwhichIcoulddescryarangeoftallbluemountains。AsIproceededIsometimespassedpleasantgrovesandhedgerows，sometimeshugeworks；inthisvalleytherewasasingularmixtureofnatureandart，ofthevoicesofbirdsandtheclankingofchains，ofthemistsofheavenandthesmokeoffurnaces。
IreachedLlan—，asmallvillagehalf—waybetweenSwanseaandNeath，andwithoutstoppingcontinuedmycourse，walkingveryfast。
Ihadsurmountedahill，andhadnearlydescendedthatsideofitwhichlookedtowardstheeast，havingonmyleft，thatistothenorth，awoodedheight，whenanextraordinaryscenepresenteditselftomyeyes。Somewhattothesouthroseimmensestacksofchimneyssurroundedbygrimydiabolical—lookingbuildings，intheneighbourhoodofwhichwerehugeheapsofcindersandblackrubbish。Fromthechimneys，notwithstandingitwasSunday，smokewasproceedinginvolumes，chokingtheatmosphereallaround。Fromthispandemonium，atthedistanceofaboutaquarterofamiletothesouth—west，uponagreenmeadow，stood，lookingdarklygrey，aruinofvastsizewithwindowholes，towers，spires，andarches。
Betweenitandtheaccursedpandemonium，layahorridfilthyplace，partofwhichwasswampandpartpool：thepoolblackassoot，andtheswampofadisgustingleadencolour。Acrossthisplaceoffilthstretchedatramwayleadingseeminglyfromtheabominablemansionstotheruin。SostrangeasceneIhadneverbeheldinnature。Haditbeenoncanvas，withtheadditionofanumberofDiabolicalfigures，proceedingalongthetramway，itmighthavestoodforSabbathinHell—devilsproceedingtoafternoonworship，andwouldhaveformedapictureworthyofthepowerfulbutinsanepainter，JeromeBos。
AfterstandingforaconsiderabletimestaringatthestrangespectacleIproceeded。Presentlymeetingalad，Iaskedhimwhatwasthenameoftheruin。
\"TheAbbey，\"hereplied。
\"NeathAbbey？\"saidI。
\"Yes！\"
